Podcast appearances and mentions of alex megos

https://binwegbouldern.de/bwb_shop#!/In der Wettkampfsaison 2025 kann der DAV nicht mehr für alle Athletinnen und Athleten die Reisekosten zu den Worldcups tragen. Das wurde weithin bekannt, nachdem Alexander Megos auf diesen Umstand aufmerksam gemacht hatte und einen Spendenaufruf gestartet hatte. Mit diesen Spenden sollen die fehlenden Reisekosten zusammenkommen.Aber was hat zu dieser Situation geführt? Im Podcastinterview erklärt Philipp Abels, Sportdirektor "Sommersport" des DAV, warum der DAV nicht mehr alle Kosten tragen kann. Kurzgesagt: Der DAV hat keine Kürzungen vorgenommen. Das Budget ist 2025 das gleiche wie 2024, doch die Reisekosten für die Wettkämpfe sind gestiegen und zugleich hat das deutsche Team mehr Quotenplätze bei Worldcups bekommen. Es können also mehr Athletinnen und Athleten teilnehmen, doch es fehlt das Geld für Flug und Co. Im Interview erklärt Philipp die Situation im Detail und spricht darüber, wie man das Problem lösen möchte.ShownotesInterview mit Alex Megos zur Finanzierung des Wettkampfkletterns und Infos zu seinem SpendenaufrufMagst du mich bei meiner Podcast-Arbeit unterstützen?Damit ich meine Arbeit machen kann gibt es auf der Plattform Steady ein CrowdfundingOder hol dir ein BIN WEG BOULDERN Shirt / Hoodies uvm.

Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Adam Ondra explores: His process with Jakob and friends on DNA (5.15d / 9c) Being motivated by friendly competition The recent sends of Change and Move by Alex Megos and others Kneepads and their impact on modern climbing and grades of old classics Silence vs B.I.G. and which is the king line Is he retiring from comp climbing? The new Ondra Comp shoe, and what is "smedging" Is Terranova harder than V16... and can Will Bosi send it? - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com  And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   Are you as obsessed with training and climbing as I am? If so, check out the 5-Year Training and Performance Journal that I created, where you can log and reflect on all of your struggles, sends, adventures, and metrics over the next 5 years. It's the most important climbing tool I have, and it brings me so much joy each day! - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.  Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel. 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen. 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X. 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel! 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments  SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megosNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a's(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects(00:14:45) – Bibliographie(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to(00:21:08) – The America Tour(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change(00:45:51) – Leg pump(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption(01:07:51) – Olympics(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions(01:12:51) – The board master(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance. The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being. RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don't treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul's top advice to not get injured, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:28) – Topics covered(00:04:01) – Paul's grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries(00:16:21) – Stress shielding(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?(01:09:18) – Playing the long game(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis(01:36:14) – Paul's top advice to not get injured(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

We're joined by the man Alex Megos described as the strongest on the world cup circuit! We had a great evening chatting with Yannick about rocks, comps and training. Give it a listen to hear some brilliantly quotable lines from one of the strongest climbers on the planet. Our personal favourite was 'bouldering is not a physical sport'. Top guy and really enjoyable to listen to, thanks for joining us Yannick! If you like our podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn't train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:03) – The donut festival(00:06:26) – Tyler's granite spray wall(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts(00:14:21) – Outline of topics(00:16:17) – Finger training topics(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination(00:49:23) – Summary of our session(00:50:21) – When to end a session(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind(01:11:25) – Tyler's guidance for me in Hueco(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?(01:20:24) – Lions don't go jogging(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos' and Adam Ondra's training volume(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?(02:07:46) – Takeaways(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients' training habits(02:14:41) – The future of finger training(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways(02:37:05) – Wrap up

Elite climber Magnus Midtbø returns to The Struggle with his business partner, Till Gross, to share their perspective on how climbers can improve at the sport by accessing A-list coaches and other climbing resources online.   - Magnus and Till are developing a pretty ambitious and impressive online coaching platform that includes some of the biggest names in the sport including Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Hazel Findlay, Dave MacLeod, and Daniel Woods just to name a few. And in developing these courses, Magnus and Till are learning how us climbers can best absorb new information and apply it to our training and climbing… something that can help us all to level up, whether we work with a coach in person, scrape YouTube for the latest training advice, or enroll in Adam Ondra's course that he's building with Magnus and Till. We also touch on other topics, including the one thing Magnus learned when he was a newer climber that totally changed the game for him, what Magnus's big climbing goal is these days, and the YouTube video idea that ended up being just too sketchy for Magnus to go through with. Hint… it involves cheese. - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE: Rungne: Try Magdust, performance chalk at a great price, and check out all of Magnus's other favorite gear. Enter to win a YEAR supply of Magdust and other rad prizes or discounts at Rungne.com PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. CLICK HERE to view recent scientific studies on the efficacy of collagen and other supplements.  - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - Score instant access to 30+ hours of bonus content, including Pro Clinics, uncut videos, and ad-free episodes, and rad swag by supporting the show at  www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all... ...which route was really the world's first 9a? Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.   This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio. Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.  

Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos  Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency  Patrick's info and outro Contact Info: IG: @kraftfactory email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other. One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode, we're going to examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes - Alex Megos and Buster Martin - to try and decide once and for all which route was really the world's first 9a. Check out more here!

There's no climber more qualified to discuss Action Directe than Alex Megos. He has the fastest ascent, the most ascents, and he is, in our estimation, the person who is carrying the torch that Wolfgang Gullich left behind.  In this episode, we discuss the visionary line of Action Directe, what makes it different and so present in our consciousness even over 30 years after the first ascent, and how the Frankenjura was the perfect training ground. We also get into Wolfgang, his presence in climbing, and his influence on Alex.  Check out more here! ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

66 the number of the beast, and the beast in this case is Alex Megos. One of the world's greatest rock climbers, it was a right treat to have him on one of the world's podcasts. A nice chilled out chat about a range of topics, you know who he is, and you know we don't have a format, just give it a listen! (Thank-you for listening)If you enjoy our podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

It's a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it's bad.”0:18:15 – Troy's top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin's longest project0:32:43 – Austin's efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce's trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce's job1:09:07 – Troy's job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin's tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan's goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan's top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I'm bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan's most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin's send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews world class climbing coach, Dicki Korb -- trainer of Alex Megos and co-author of the best selling climbing book, Gimme Kraft! Watch as Dicki shares his thoughts and methodologies from his 37 years of climbing! This episode covers: Gimme Kraft! and sharing training methods Contemporary training Dicki's go to exercises, warm up tips, and movement practice/preparation  Challenges, risks, and considerations with modern competition climbing Finger training, campus boarding, and training errors  Changes in coaching since pandemic Dicki's general tips for resiliency Contact Info: webpage: https://cafekraft.de/de email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Eric Horst and I team up for this crossover episode as the GOAT Coach helps me chart a course to sending my hardest grade, 5.13a, this fall. - Eric is the host of the Training4Climbing podcast, author of numerous climbing bibles, pro coach for decades, founder of Physivantage nutrition, and all around crusher in his own right. Regardless of your style, grade, or goals, this conversation will help you to plan your projects and training in a manner that leads to big gains. Topics covered include: How to pick a project based on your self-assessment on strengths and weaknesses Structuring in-season and off-season training Establishing a 30k foot view of your training and climbing How smaller goals can roll up into the main objective The superpower of onsighting  Training efficiently based on conditions and work/life balance So so so much more! - This episode is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Created by climbers for climbers, their athlete roster includes Alex Megos, Natalia Grossman, Daniel Woods, Paige Classen, Matt Fultz, Jonathan Siegrist, Amity Warme and so many more! Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.    The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @eric_horst - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!  

Lor Sabourin joins the show to look back at this season's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing, and helps us all to learn from where the pros have struggled and excelled in mental game.  - Lor is an elite climber and coach with an expertise in the area of mindset, and they join the pod to look back at season 2 (featuring highlights from Jonathan Siegrist, Melina Costanza, Allison Vest, Peter Croft, and more) and shares actionable takeaways that we can all use to level up our own mental game and climbing.  - Topics: How to set motivating, healthy, and achievable goals   Working through performance anxiety      Choosing (and being) a good partner   Ego, belonging, self worth, and community    How to harness the send stoke when you're not even climbing   Yes vs No Fall Zones    How to turn falling into a relaxing process   What to note when you don't send and when you DO send   Self advocacy and how to be welcoming to all at the climbs  - This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Created by climbers for climbers, their athlete roster includes Alex Megos, Natalia Grossman, Daniel Woods, Paige Classen, Matt Fultz, Jonathan Siegrist, Amity Warme and so many more! Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.    This season is supported by Petzl, the official gear sponsor of The Struggle. Check out their Scirocco helmet, Djinn draws, Hirundos harness, and all of their bomber gear at your local shop! Access the inaccessible at Petzl.com.   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @lor_sabourin - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!    

It's Tuesday! Grab a taco and dig in to this bite sized beta from Alex Megos as we focus on the power of rest as it pertains to injury prevention, recovery, and climbing stronger than ever (take it from one of the best in the game)!   -   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.   -   This Training Tip Tuesday is brought to you by Friction Labs. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off your first order at frictionlabs.com   -   This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   -   The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world.

Harald Roth arbeitet in Erlangen als Trainer und Kletter-Physiotherapeut. Zu ihm kommen alle, die Fragen übers Klettertraining, Verletzungen etc. haben - lokale Größen wie Alex Megos oder z.B. auch Studierende. Das Besondere an Haralds Arbeit ist, dass er sich Zeit für seine privat zahlenden Kundinnen und Kunden nehmen kann. Wer zu ihm kommt, bekommt einen Drink und etwas Selbstgebackenes. Beim Essen wird über das aktuelle Problem und die aktuellen Fragen gesprochen, danach geht es in die Behandlung. Eine Arbeitsweise, die für jeden unter Zeitdruck arbeitenden Physio sicher spannend klingt. Im Interview habe ich Harald gefragt, wie er es geschafft hat, so zu arbeiten. Außerdem erzählt er, wo er Verbesserungsbedarf beim Training in den Hallen sieht und beantwortet eure Fragen, die ihr mir vorab geschickt habt. Danke an alle, die Fragen gesendet haben und viel Spaß mit dieser Folge! +++ Shownotes +++ Harald Roth ist bei Instagram mit seinem Back-Account “Viking Bread” https://www.instagram.com/viking.bread/?hl=de Harald Roth im Techniker Boulder Bundesliga Podcast: “Richtiges Fallen beim Bouldern” https://podcasts.apple.com/de/podcast/richtiges-fallen-beim-bouldern/id1571310768?i=1000588409818 “Besser werden im Überhang” https://podcasts.apple.com/de/podcast/besser-werden-im-%C3%BCberhang/id1571310768?i=1000587427967 Magst du mich bei meiner Podcast-Arbeit unterstützen? Damit ich meine Arbeit machen kann gibt es auf der Plattform Steady ein Crowdfunding: https://steadyhq.com/de/binwegbouldern Oder hol dir ein BIN WEG BOULDERN Shirt / Hoodies uvm.: https://binwegbouldern.de/bwb_shop#!/

“It's all about the process.” Sure, the journey is important, but so is the destination. It's not all about the journey. It's about mapping out the journey that gets you to the intended destination. So is there a way to care about the outcome without making it the focus? In this Remix episode, we'll hear from athletes Sam Elias and Alex Megos, learning expert Trevor Regan, and mental training coach Arno Ilgner about how we can care about the outcome, but stay focused on the process.   REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FROM THIS REMIX: Episode 17: Process vs. Goal Based Motivation with Arno Ilgner Episode 64: Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Ragan Episode 127: Thoughtful Process with Sam Elias Ep. 152: Alex Megos and Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. Music in this episode is from Blue Dot Sessions. Spindash  Sylvestor 

Welcome back to the Wednesday News Show this week we discuss the latest comp news from Arco, Alex Megos is putting up new first ascents in Céüse and we bring you all the details from the latest ascents in Pakistan…

Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst's analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more! This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boulders and crags this summer…when during this performance season, it's really the mental, technical, and tactical skills that matter most. Listen, learn, apply, be inspired....and then go send your project! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this episode on climbing tactics 2:00 - Eric remarks about Ryan Devlin's new podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show. 3:08 – My analysis episode of The Struggle on “Tactics of the Pros”. 3:40 – Backstory on my enduring interest in climbing…and training for climbing! 6:50 – My personal struggles… 10:00 – Generally, some of the most vital tactics of the pros involve strategies to acquire higher efficiency in their climbing. 11:25 – Using “reframing” as a mental tactic to overcome their struggles. Mental toughness is a superpower of these pro climbers. 13:00 – Developing “mental agility” is central to the goal pursuit of top pros. 15:20 – Recreational climbers share many of the same struggles as the pros! 16:26 – Analysis of Emily Harrington's comments on free climbing El Capitan's Golden Gate. Efficiency is everything! (Well, almost.) 19:00 – Learn one way to train climbing efficiency at the gym… 21:10 – Pursue efficiency (and recovery!) when climbing outdoors! 23:15 – Analysis of Kevin Jorgenson's epic struggle—and win!—on the crux pitch of Dawn Wall. 24:40 – Problem solving tactics that we can apply to our climbing… 30:20 – Sometimes it takes a one-off novel tactic to send! (Emily Harrington adapting to the Monster Offwidth!) 32:00 – More gym training tactics for boulderers… 36:00 – The importance of taking breaks from project boulders/routes…to experience more “wins” and to remember the joy of climbing successes! 37:00 – View difficult days—the struggle—as both part of the process…and a “tuition” of sorts paid to become a better climber. 37:50 – Alex Megos projecting process often includes a route-specific training block. Perhaps, so should yours! 40:55 – Eric's comments on the Alex Honnold interview…and his different approaches to sport climbing and trad (or solo) climbing. 42:35 – When it's safe…become fully unbridled and climb until you fall…or send! 44:40 – Learning climbing tactics comes with experience--be patient and frequently challenge yourself with diverse climbing experiences, and you will become a master climber! 48:00 – Some of the common traits/strategies of the pros… 48:38 – 1. They have struggles—more than you may think! 49:35 – 2. Mental agility. Make a game out of problem solving and the process of sending. 50:30 – 3. Trust the process. Learn every day, act with intention, and believe in the end game! 51:20 – 4. Route-specific training…especially for long-haul projects. 52:00 – 5. Build a sport team…and remember to pay it back (or pay it forward)! 54:20 – Final comments about Eric's multi-decade journey to have an impact on climbers around the world! PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers is the capstone of Eric's climbing career. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. here >> 58:20 – Wrap-up of this T4C podcast. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Elite climber Alex Megos shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game.  - Alex is one of the strongest climbers in the world, with a few 9b+ or 5.15c routes under his belt including King Capella, Perfecto Mundo, and the first ascent of Bibliographie. He was the first ever climber to on-site 9a or 5.14d, and he has also sent multiple V15 and V16 boulders. He's crazy strong and talented, but as you'll hear in our chat, he is most certainly human and struggles in his climbing like the rest of us. We also chat about his view on kneepads and kneebars, his passion for environmental causes, and his giveback clothing company Carrots For Power. - This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.  - This episode is sponsored by FrictionLabs (which happens to be Alex's chalk brand of choice as well). Chalk up less and climb more with FrictionLabs! Visit www.frictionlabs.com and enter code STRUGGLE20 at checkout for 20% off your first order. - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - SHOW NOTES: Struggle: 0:05:45 Training: 0:09:38 Nutrition: 0:12:46 Tactics: 0:16:26 Mental Game: 0:23:26 Purpose: 0:32:32 Takeaways: 0:40:02 - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @alexandermegos.  - Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad. - Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!    

Send season is back, we bring you all the latest ascents from around the world! Alex Megos is doing his 9b thing, kids crush new records and the latest EpicTV Cyber Week Shop deals...

Alex Megos has sent King Capella, a 9b+ put up recently by Will Bosi. We take a look at that send, some kids crush and Colin Duffy is on fire!

Stefano Ghisolfi recently made the 2nd ascent of Bibliographie, a proposed 15d (9c) first done by Alex Megos in Ceuse, France. This would have made Stefano only the 3rd person to climb the grade - behind the two climbers widely considered as the best in the world. But Stefano chose to say that the route isn't 15d after all, but 15c (9b+). Why? In this episode, Nate and I discuss grades, downgrading, egos, pressure, and how these two climbers handled the situation in an incredibly mature, progressive way. But is it the best way? Does it matter? You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com These are exactly the kinds of conversations our Patrons get more of. 2 extra episodes every month. You can become a Patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

A Revista Blog de Escalada possui 15 anos, e desde que iniciamos as atividades de cobertura do mundo do montanhismo, escalada e esportes outdoor as competições foram assunto constante e recorrente.

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmit of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon... Podcast Rundown 00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst 2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time? 6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do? 8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year. 10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach. 12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers? 14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades! 17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES! 18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade! 19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach? 25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic. 30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments. 34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance. 35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results. 36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear. 44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle"). 46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength. 50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete. 51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality. 54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!) 56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki 59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls. 1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds. 1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs. 1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle. 1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

In diesem Jahr finden die Olympischen Sommerspiele in Tokio statt und erstmals wird auch das Sportklettern mit von der Partie sein. Vom 3. bis 6. August geht es in der Vertikalen rund, wenn sich die Weltbesten in der Kombinationsdisziplin Olympic Combined, bestehend aus Speed, Bouldern und Lead, messen. Auch Deutschland schickt zwei Athleten zu den Wettkämpfen nach Japan: Jan Hojer und Alex Megos. Wir möchten in dieser Folge einen Blick hinter die Kulissen werfen. Juliane Fritz vom Boulderpodcast “Bin weg bouldern” spricht mit drei direkt Beteiligten: - Urs Stöcker, leitender Bundestrainer des Kletternationalkaders - Johannes Altner, Jury-Präsident des internationalen Sportkletterverbandes (IFSC) - Alexander Megos, Profi-Kletterer und Olympia-Teilnehmer

This week Alex Megos revealed the 9b he sent a few weeks ago and an ice climber boulders 8B. We bring you a HUGE 9a roundup and the 9b counter might get another ascent on it...

lex Megos has been on another holiday climbing rampage...but he's not the only one! We bring you the biggest climbing stories from the past week...

Alex Megos talk to Niall Grimes about his new 9c, Bibliography, at Ceuse.

Alex Megos returns to the news with an audacious 9a flash (maybe), and 'Old Guy' legend Chuck Odette ticks his project. We bring you a round up of all the news from this week and our favourite videos from EpicTV this week...

When a climber does an 8C boulder you know they are on form! Today we check out Will Bosi sending, Alex Megos goes back to Céüse and we round up all the climbing news from this week.

Alex Megos makes a historic ascent of Bibliographie, 9c... On today's show, we discuss the grading of the route to become the World's second 9c, as well as news from Nathaniel Coleman sending the Illusionist, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher sending a Beat Kammerlander route, Oriane Berton flashing an 8b+, as well as much more from the climbing world, check out all the latest news with Hugo and Teresa.

You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! So, how can you best transition from gym to outdoor climbing, and what can you do to perform your best on weekends outdoors or on a long trip? In this episode, Eric presents a series of powerful tips that you can take to the send bank! He also provides awareness of the potential to self-sabotage, something that even the most experienced climber can succumb to. RUNDOWN 0:15 – Opening comments--I missed you! 2:58 - Introduction to this episode on climbing tips and strategies for optimal performance on weekend trips and on longer road trip 4:06 - A few brief comments about the challenging and, at times, tumultuous events of the past few months... 7:56 - Eric's philosophy about the power of climbing--it brings us together! 9:30 - Tips, topics, and techniques to help you reach your climbing goals this season...as a weekend warrior and on a longer road trip. 10:22 - How to properly taper your training in the days leading up to your outdoor climbing. "Tapering" ahead of a weekend trip is much different than doing a proper training taper ahead of a month-long road trip. Learn the details so that you get it right--a proper taper is hugely important for climbing your strongest! 14:10 - When you arrive at your destination crag...what's the best climbing approach on the first few days? Should you go straight to your project...or should you spend a few days adjusting and acclimating to the outdoor climbing location? 18:00 - On longer trips, most climbers experience a "peak" during the first 1 to 3 weeks of the trip...but they then experience a gradual decline in maximum strength and power with each additional week removed from your training. 19:15 - Why pro climbers often limit climbing trips to one month. 19:29 - Comments about Alex Megos sending Bibliographie, the world's second 5.15d/9c route. CONGRAT ALEX! 20:40 - How as a weekend warrior you can best schedule climbing trips and find the training-and-climbing "rhythm" that best serves you. Plan several months ahead on a paper calendar...this way you can better see the training blocks and travel dates. 22:06 - On a long trip, how many days in a row can you climb? How many days per week is it best to climb? Answer: It depends on many variables...which I'll describe. 23:53 - Learn why a significant number of climbers return from a road trip with a tweak or more significant injury. Learn how you can avoid "walking off the cliff" of sudden, debilitating injury. 26:26 - Specific tips for optimizing recovery and lowering injury risk while on a climbing trip. 28:28 - Learn how to wrap up a long road trip and transition back into training at home. Should you take a break from training for a few days or more? 32:50 - Post-trip, most climbers will need a 2- to 4-week training block to regain top-end finger strength and power. 33:40 - About self-sabotage...it's happened to me...and I'm sure to you as well at some point. Let's unpack a few common scenarios for self-sabotage. 34:24 - Self-Sabotage #1: "Flinching" on the first day working a near-limit project route. TRUST THE PROCESS! Don't give up too fast. 37:55 - However, don't over-reach too far...and get bogged down for many days (or weeks) on a single route. Don't allow your climbing trip to turn into a suffer-fest. Try to balance days of sending (sub-max routes) with days of projecting on near-limit routes. 40:00 - Self-Sabotage #2: Not doing an appropriate warm-up...and rushing to get on your project boulder or route too fast. You can NOT climb your best without a proper warm-up that turns on your nervous system, ignites your climbing-specific aerobic system, lubricates your tendons and joints, and readies your generalize aerobic/CV system. Learn how to do it right! 43:50 - Self-Sabotage #3: Not eating right. Consuming adequate protein and carbohydrates is essential to climbing your best, keeping energy levels ups, recovering optimally, and lowering injury risk. Learn how to keep your power-to-weight ratio up and accelerate recovery on a road trip. Read more about the protein needs of a hard-training strength/power athlete like you! 49:09 - Some meal suggestions and tips for breakfast, snacks, and dinner. What's a common breakfast food of many top climbers? Find out!  50:10 - How many calories do you likely need for bouldering and sport climbing...and on a sedentary rest day? (Big wall and mountain climbers have a much higher daily caloric need than climbers doing stop-and-go bouldering and sport climbing.) 52:06 - Eric's closing--and powerful--comments about setting big goals, pursuing them energetically, and stacking the odds in your favor. You must believe that "what you want, wants you"! Then take daily action and resist the ways (and traps) of the masses. Find your own unique life path, and enjoy your journey. 54:54 - What's the secret sauce that makes for unique and amazingly pro climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Margo Hayes, and many others (I can't name them all!)? Listen, learn, model, plot, course correct, and never give up! 55:55 - The importance of avoiding the traps of the common man... 59:19 - There are a LOT of things that determine climbing performance--the more puzzle pieces you can put together, the better you will become! 1:00:00 – Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price items. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! 1:00:50 - PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Alex Megos is back on the boulders as he puts up what could be the Frankenjura's hardest boulder problem. Teresa is back on the show as we round up all the climbing news from this week.

On todays news show Alex Megos shows the world his 'Brush Point' style, Hazel Findlay sends The Quarryman and we have a round up of all the hard climbing action from around the world.

Welcome back to the EpicTV Climbing podcast! Laura Rogora becomes the first Italian woman to climb 9a+ by repeating the MONSTER Adam Ondra route 'Pure dreaming Plus'. Alex Megos goes on a sending spree and the Czech Republic HARDEST boulder gets climbed.

Alex Megos ist der erste deutsche Kletterer, der sich für die Olympischen Spiele qualifiziert hat. Eigentlich würde er jetzt mitten in der “heißen Phase” der Olympia-Vorbereitungen stecken, doch die Spiele wurden bekanntermaßen auf 2021 verschoben. Noch bevor bekannt wurde, dass die Spiele verschoben werden, habe ich Alex Megos in Nürnberg zum Interview getroffen. Das war Ende Februar, im Cafe Kraft. Das Interview sollte Teil einer großen Podcastfolge zum Thema Olympia sein. Leider wird diese Folge nun auch verschoben. Doch das Interview mit Alex möchte ich euch trotzdem nicht vorenthalten! Denn was er zu Olympia und zu seinem Training für die Spiele zu sagen hat, bleibt ja weiterhin interessant! Viel Spaß mit dieser Folge! ++++++ Magst du mich bei meiner Podcastarbeit unterstützen? Damit ich meine Arbeit machen kann gibt es auf der Plattform Steady ein Crowdfunding: https://steadyhq.com/de/binwegbouldern Oder hol dir ein BIN WEG BOULDERN Shirt / Hoodies uvm.: https://binwegbouldern.de/bwb_shop#!/

4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals! It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort. This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals. RUNDOWN 8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips, competitions, and other major life events. Consider what additional shorter trips (weekends and holidays) you can schedule. Now, think about developing a training plan to be maximally effective for preparing you for each trip. Don't forget to include a 3 to 7 days "training taper" before significant trips. 11:45 - Refine, re-invent, or overhaul your training! Do you do the same familiar training program day after day? Are you now training in the same basic ways you did one year ago? If so, it's time for a change! Listen closely for ideas how....and beware of the "shiny object"! 25:55 - Begin using Auto-Regulation before every serious climbing-specific workout. This is a big-time tip! Pretty much all elite athletes use auto-regulation, and so should you! In this section, I describe 4 "stages" of recovery, and how you can determine your stage of climbing-specific recovery on any given workout day. Listen closely, and develop your own personalized progressive warm-up to accurately auto-regulate all of your serious climbing workouts. 57:40 - Add a new element to your training! Something you don’t ever do…or do infrequently. It must be climbing-specific and it must make sense to do…in terms of addressing a physical or technical weakness. View this new thing as a wild card—something that you might be apprehensive or scared to do. Sometimes in climbing, the thing you fear or avoid is exactly what you NEED to do to open the door to another level of performance. Watch video of Alex Megos wall campusing with perfect technique. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing! Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Drei Sieger an einem Tisch: Direkt nach der Auszeichnung zum Sportler, zur Sportlerin und zur Mannschaft des Jahres hat sich EN-Redakteurin Katharina Tontsch die Sieger für den neuen Lokalsportcast geschnappt. Auf der Gala des Erlanger Sports sprechen Kletterer Alexander Megos, BMX-Fahrerin Leonie Schuster und Ruth Hotop vom Ruder-Achter der FAU Erlangen-Nürnberg über ihre Erfolge und Pläne. Ob Olympia, Ausbildung oder die Bundesliga - die Zukunft hält einiges bereit. Was Alexander Megos von den Mädels lernen kann und wo die After Party steigt, hört ihr im neuen Sport-Podcast.

Patrick Matros und Dicki Korb gehören zu den bekanntesten Trainern Deutschlands, denn sie arbeiten mit keinem anderen als Alex Megos zusammen. Durch Megos Erfolg wurden viele Kletterer auf Patrick und Dicki aufmerksam und die beiden arbeiten heute mit Profis, wie auch mit Hobby-Kletterern, um deren Leistungen an der Wand zu verbessern. Ich habe Patrick Matros und Dicki Korb bei der Kletterhallenmesse “Halls and Walls” in Nürnberg getroffen und mit ihnen über ihre Arbeit gesprochen. Erstaunt war ich, wie viel wir am Ende über das Klettertraining und Kletterwettkämpfe mit Kindern und Jugendlichen gesprochen haben. Hier fürchten die beiden, dass es im Moment eine Entwicklung gibt, die wir in einigen Jahren bereuen werden. Es ist also eine spannende Folge, die einige interessante Einblicke bietet. Viel Spaß beim Zuhören! +++ Werbung +++ Diese Podcastfolge wird dir präsentiert von Whiteout. Hol dir 20% Rabatt auf alle Produkte von Whiteout mit dem Code: binwegbouldern Bei Whiteout gibt es bestes Chalk, Tape und Shirts! Schau dich mal bei ihnen um: https://www.whiteout-climbing.de/

Alex Megos may well be the strongest climber in the world. But is he the best?  In this episode I sit down with Megos and his good friend Ken Etzel, the director of the new film that we are discussing, Rotpunkt.  Rotpunkt gives us a rare glimpse into the up and down struggles of someone trying to become the best in the world. Maybe not suprisingly, these are struggles that every single one of us can relate to. Possibly even more fascinating is the bond that was forged between filmmaker and athlete, and the pressures that this bond had to endure while making the film.  You can find the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k You can find Alex Megos on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexandermegos You can find Ken Etzel on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ken_etzel You can find the Petzl Pump Prep Scholarship at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/pump-prep-scholarship You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Niall Grimes reads his own story about a trip to Kalymnos where he gets to hang out with some famous climbers: Ben Moon, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Megos, Jibe Tribout, Boone Speed, and some famous climbers he hadn't heard of before.

This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science will empower you to elevate your training outcomes...and climb harder! Podcast Rundown 2:50 – Recap of the genesis of my study of energy systems more than 5 years ago. After a two-year review of the latest research and sports science, I discovered that some aspect of the old school sports science—and even some physiology textbooks—were outdated and even wrong on some important details. Therefore, what I’m trying to do with my book Training for Climbing and these podcasts is apply the latest sports science, research, and training technology to climbing. Only this way will we optimize training programs and advance the sport! 5:20 – What I’m presenting in this series of 5 podcasts is the cutting edge of training for climbing…that may open the door to 5.16a in the next 5 to 10 years...and help the mass of climbers achieve their climbing goals and beyond! 8:15 – Eric shares a brief anecdote from his week at the International Rock Climbing Researchers congress in Chamonix, France...about meeting the Japan National Climbing Team head coach Hiroshi Yasui. 10:58 – The focus of this podcast is the art of the science…via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make energy system training optimally effective. This is important and powerful summary material that will pull together the key concepts from the 4 previous podcasts…and empower you to get the most out of your training both in the short and long term. 13:08 – How advanced training is like playing 3-D chess. 14:20 – Key Idea #1: Though we talk about (and train) them separately, all 3 energy systems contribute toward power in almost every climbing move and training exercise. It's vitally important to understand how the three energy pathways influence, support, and even inhibit each other. 17:10 – Key Idea #2: Effective energy system training must target a specific pathway as much as possible. To optimally trigger training adaptations, the goal is to maximize the flux through a single energy pathway. You can’t train intuitively…or go to the gym and “just climb”—this approach is too imprecise for an advanced climber to make meaning gains. 21:30 – Key Idea #3: Working on your project is not effective energy system training. Listen and learn why… 24:55 – A quick side story about Alex Megos working on the "Bibliography" project at Céüse…quite possibly a 9c/5.15d route. 27:54 - Key Idea #4: Energy system training for short-term adaptations and long-term gains are two very different things. While the former may help you send your current project, it's a commitment to the latter that will help you reach your genetic potential. 31:54 – Learn the secrets to long-term gains—which energy system(s) will advance your climbing…and what novel training adaptations you are after. This is brand new material to the climbing world—listen closely! (I first introduced this cutting-edge sport science in the first energy system training podcast in March 2018.) 36:40 – A brief, but important tangent on long-term development and mastery. As exemplified by Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, you too can build-up strength, power, and endurance for 15 or 20 years (perhaps longer)….if you stay uninjured! 43:00 – Key Idea #5: Genetics do play a roll in determining your training gains and absolute climbing potential. Like it or not, genetics does play a role in training adaptations and how hard you may someday climb. That said, you can exert significant influence over your gene expression via the epigenetic effects of your day-to-day diet, training, and lifestyle. Energy System Training is one way to exert influence over your genes! 54:06 – Key Idea #6: A two-a-day workout schedule can be very beneficial for advanced/elite climbers, but the two sessions should be separated by 6 to 8 hours to optimize workout quality and minimize interference (of adaptation signaling). Intense strength/power workouts are best done in the afternoon or evening, so other forms of training—aerobic climbing, generalized aerobic activity, and similar—are best done early in the day (based on science). Of course, everyone is different (genetics, time available, other life issues)...and so your "best schedule" might require a different approach. #Nuance 1:00:30 – Bonus tip: Reduce or eliminate your antagonist training during your climbing performance season. Learn why this will help a well-trained, non-injured climber perform a bit better. 1:03:00 – Key Idea #7: You can learn and benefit a lot by keeping records of your workouts, subjective feelings, key performance indicators, and your climbing achievements. Digital and other online records, like 8a.nu and Vertical-Life.info, are a good place to start; but written records have great value, too. Learn why. 1:06:35 – Key Idea #8: Energy system programming is the ultimate "art of the science". Getting long term results requires a knowledgable coach, accurate testing, and progression program design that is artfully crafted around periods of performance climbing and/or competition. Personalized training is essential—nuance is key. 1:08:47 – Eric offers training program advice for beginners. 1:11:55 – Some programming tips for intermediate/accomplished climbers. 1:14:45 – Short- and long-term training program advice for advanced weekend warriors and professional/elite climbers. 1:22:27 – Summary comments about energy system training and the future of training for climbing. How high quality information and coaching is like a power tool that, through leverage, multiplies your current strength, talent, and climbing ability. Seek out the best information and coaches available—and become the best climber you can be! 1:24:00 - My thoughts on how becoming a better climber can make you a better human being...and empower you to positively impact other people (and perhaps change the world!) in small, but meaningful ways. PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! For more on energy system training (and a myriad other training tips and techniques) pick up a copy of the latest edition of the best-selling Training for Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Cameron Horst lowering after the send at Tetto di Sarre, Italy.

Mit, zur Aufzeichnung der Sendung am 5. Februar 2018 nicht einmal 25 Jahren, ist Alex Megos längst teil der modernen Klettergeschichte – spätestens seit seiner On-Sight-Begehung von „Estado Critico“ (9a) 2013. Genau wie in Power-Quest.cc Podcast 549 (Platin), stand Alex Megos auch dieses mal, gemeinsam mit seinem Trainer und „GIMMEKRAFT-Mitiiniator“ Patrick Matros Interviewer Jürgen Reis Frage und Antwort. Die Themen: Wie gestaltet sich ein perfekter Trainingstag und was bedeutet der „Traumberuf Rockstar“ mit bis zu 35 Trainingsstunden pro Woche? Wie „groß“ ist das Sportklettern im Vergleich zu den „Big-Money-Sportarten“ wie Fußball und was wird sich mit Olympia 2020 ändern ... was aber auch nicht? Welches sind die aktuellen Trends im Klettertraining und warum wird spezifisches Training „größer geschrieben“ denn je? Wie bereitet sich Alex Megos, unter Patrick Matros' Trainer-Argusaugen, speziell auf die IFSC-Weltcups und die 2018er-WM vor und wie wird gezielt an Schwächen, wie z.B. den berüchtigten Sprüngen in der Wand, gearbeitet? Alle Fragen inkl. Vor- und Abspann mit Szeneinsider Sven Albinus gibt's auch dieses mal – inkl. Gewinnspiel – live on tape!

Mit, zur Aufzeichnung der Sendung am 5. Februar 2018 nicht einmal 25 Jahren, ist Alex Megos l

Von vielen Zuhörern sicherlich bereits sehnlichst erwartet: DIE Fortsetzung zu Gold-Podcast 611. Auch dieses, gut 45-minütige Exklusivinterview entstand im „Vorbereitungswinter 2017“ Anfang März 2017. Dabei ging's zuerst um die „existenziellen“ Themen eines jeden Profiathleten. Denn seit Sebastian Halenke der Schule als Teenager „freiwillig Goodbye“ wünschte, fokussiert sich der mittlerweile 21-jährige voll, auch durch die Unterstützung von Sponsoren und Familie, aufs Klettern. Wie sieht er sich langfristig aufgestellt, bzw. existiert ein „Plan B“, als Alternative zu seiner Profilaufbahn? Was hält er von marketingtechnisch oft extrem gepushten, neuen Wettkampfformaten à la „The Projekt“ und warum steht für ihn, trotz attraktivem Preisgeld, die „Schwedenprojektreise“ nicht auf dem Plan? Wie sieht er die Stellung der Wettkampfkletterer in Bezug auf „Big-Money-Sportarten“ aber auch im Vergleich zu den „Rockstars“ wie Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos & Co.? Und KLAR! Einen Überblick über seine Weltcupvorbereitungswoche, zum Interviewzeitpunkt sehr Maximalkraftbetont, darf sein! Wie gestaltet er seine komplexen Doppelsplit-Workouts und welche Prioritäten setzt er im Training? Warum ist oft eine gute Stunde Warm-Up und auch ausgiebiges Dehnen nach dem Training für ihn, neben einem regenerationsförderndem Life-Style, ein „professional MUST HAVE DONE“? Und ... wie viel Flexibilität darf trotz strikter Planung sein? Alle Antworten und wie immer ein Top-Vorabspann mit Szene-Insider Sven Albinus und ... Gewinnspiel!

Alex Megos, the 23-year-old Übercrimpenkranker, and the first climber in the world to onsight 9a,  is coerced into a small art room at the Kendal Mountain Festival. Here he tells Niall Grimes loads of really important and interesting stuff.

„Erste 9a (UIAA 11) onsight!“, hieß es 2013 – nicht nur in den Klettermedien. Und nicht, wie erwartet, die „üblichen Verdächtigen“ Adam Ondra oder Chris Sharma hatten dieses mal die Weltrekordlatte einen Level höher gelegt, sondern Alexander Megos. Es folgten Blitzbegehungen u.a. von Wolfgang Güllichs Testpiece Action Directe, ein 8c-Boulder in den USA und zuletzt mit First Round First Minute 9b (UIAA 12). Jürgen Reis gelang für www.Power-Quest.cc und somit für EUCH nun das, wovon andere Podcasts bestenfalls träumen können: Der 22-jährige, sehr medienselektiv agierende Jungprofi gab ihm, gemeinsam mit seinem Mentor, und „Mr. GIMMEKRAFT“-Trainer (zuletzt in den Podcasts 509 und 442 zu Gast) sein erstes Audiocastinterview überhaupt. Die Themen: Was hält Matros von der immensen Flut an „neuen“ Trainingsstrategien, -Apps, -Büchern und „Onlinecoachings“? Warum ist in seinen Augen vieles, „trendig, Innovative“ im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes „digitalisiertes Steinzeitwissen“? Wie trennt er andererseits selbst die Spreu vom Weizen und warum gönnt er z.B. Experten wie „Griffkraftstudien-Doktor“ Jerry Medernach sehr wohl die „Butter aufs Brot“? Was ist von Facebook- und YouTube-“Trainingsübungen“ der Topkletterer zu halten und warum werden grundlegende Leistungsparameter nach wie vor falsch bewertet? Welches sind die effektivsten Fingerkaft- und Griffboard-Trainingsstrategien, denen auch Alex Megos seine „Stahlfinger“ verdankt? Was sind die optimalen Ausgleichsübungen an Turnringen & Co.? Wie gelang es Alexander überhaupt, seit der Pubertät, über 15 kg (!) an purer GIMMEKRAFT-Kletterathletik zuzulegen UND dabei seine Hauptstärke, das Kraft-Lastverhältnis sogar noch zu optimieren? Und Last, but not least: Warum gibt's für Alex auch das, was für viele Kletterer bestenfalls als „langweilig“ oder „Softie-Workout“ eingestuft wird: Yoga und Joggen am Ruhetag? Wir garantieren: alle Antworten in einer XXL-Platin-Perle mit Vor- und Abspann inkl. Profikletterer Sven Albinus und Berufstrainer Sebastian Förster und ... GIMMEKRAFT-Gewinnspiel!

"Erste 9a (UIAA 11) onsight!", hie

222 gedruckte plus 16 digitale Seiten inkl. einer DVD nennt sich das Ergebnis des Schaffens eines Nürnberger Dreigespanns: Unidozent Patrick Matros, Pädagoge Ludwig „Dicki“ Korb, sowie Produzent Hannes Huch, alles selbst erfahrene Kletterer und im Fall Patrick Matros sogar „Le Parkour“ Athleten, luden die Crème de la Crème der Kletterelite in ihr Café Kraft. Und von den Boulder-Kings Bernd Zangerl und Frédéric Nicole über die Rekorddamen Sasha DiGiulian und Johanna Ernst bis hin zum aktuellen 9a-On-Sight-Weltrekordhalter Alex Megos: Sie alle folgten ihrer Einladung, für ein Buch/DVD-Projekt, die effektivsten Krafttrainingsübungen zu dokumentieren. Das Besondere für Nichtkletterer: Nur 30 Seiten des Werks spielen dabei an der Boulderwand. Der überwiegende Teil besteht aus komplexen Trainingsinhalten wie Muscle-Ups, Suspension- und adaptiertem Turnertraining. Doch wie viel Kraft braucht ein Athlet tatsächlich? Wie gelingt es Patrick und Dicki Jugendliche ihres Frankenkaders zu bis zu 4 Stunden Fahrt pro Trainingseinheit (!) zu motivieren? Wie gestalten sich die Trainingseinheiten von Alex Megos im einzelnen? Wie gelang es für GIMME KRAFT! nicht nur die Elitekletterer, sondern über Jahrzehnte verschollenes VHS-Material der Kletterlegende Wolfgang Güllich zu verewigen? Alles Fragen die – mit einer gesunden Portion Humor – direkt von Hannes und Patrick erstmals auf einem Podcastportal im Interview mit Jürgen Reis ausführlich beantwortet werden. Inkl. GIMME KRAFT! & more Gewinnspiel!