Blamo! | Exploring Fashion with the People Who Shape It

This week, I'm joined by singer and songwriter S.G. Goodman.We talk about her new album Planting By The Signs, working with Paul Schrader, and touring with Jason Isbell. She also breaks down her favorite workwear picks, growing up in Kentucky, and getting a fit off on the farm.Watch her music video for Fire Sign*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

This week, I'm joined by Kat Schoewe, VP of Design and Product Innovation at Outdoor Research.She can casually mention shaping product at Under Armour, L.L. Bean, Pearl Izumi, and Land's End—but she'd much rather talk about her vintage collection.We get into how she got started in design, the wild rise of GORP-core, what it means to be a fashion brand without really calling yourself one, and her deep love of thrifting. We also talk about why Outdoor Research has such a huge following in Japan.It's a fun ride—full of gear talk, cultural crossover, and a few solid parenting hacks thrown in for good measure.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Is cosplay cringe? Dressing as Jigglypuff or a 1930s railwayman? Peter and Derek discuss how the term "cosplay" is often used in the menswear community to rein in those who dress too far from the norm.**Listen to the entire episode and view all the shownotes on the Blamo! Patreon 

This week, we're joined by artist and composer, David Longstreth of Dirty Projectors. Known for his genre-defying work and singular creative vision, David sits down with Jeremy to talk about scoring the new A24 film The Legend of Ochi and the process behind his latest album, Song of the Earth—a sweeping collection of orchestral songs that blurs the line between the classical and the contemporary. The two dive into the rhythms of fatherhood, the unexpected joy of sharing a stage with Bernie Sanders, and the simple pleasures of swimming and meditating. It's a wide-ranging, thoughtful conversation with one of music's most curious minds.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!In the last few years, a new online archetype has appeared online: the alpha male, which is someone who's part gym coach, part life coach, and part entrepreneur. He's jacked, wears tight clothes, and speaks in clipped imperatives. Peter and Derek talk about what gave rise to this aesthetic and why this sort of character is so popular at the moment.Derek's Article on The Evolution of The Alpha Male AestheticPlus a new round of "Hey, Nice Pants!" **Listen to the entire episode and view all the shownotes on the Blamo! Patreon  

My guest this week is Chris Green, owner of Ven.Space. Located in Brooklyn, NY, Ven.Space has quickly become one of the most talked-about stores in recent years and has been featured in notable outlets such as The New York Times and Highsnobiety. The retail experience is designed to be simple, efficient, and focused on the customer experience rather than just the brand. In our discussion, Chris and I explore how Ven.Space got started, delve into his retail philosophies, talk about the importance of in-person shopping, and discuss why he has chosen not to establish an online presence… yet.Follow Ven.Space on Instagram *Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Someone on Youtube recently posted a video, where they put themselves in various social situations—once dressed casually, the next time in a suit—to see if they would be treated differently depending on what they're wearing. In this episode, Peter and Derek discuss the respectability of dress and whether people do, in fact, get better treatment if they wear tailored clothing.**Listen to the entire episode and view all the shownotes on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Loren Kramar.Loren is no stranger to fashion having worked in the industry, and collaborated with his friends at Eckhaus Latta. He's a fit god filled with hilarious hot takes, and makes me weep whenever he sings.Loren and I discuss his new EP, Living Legend, being a creative without a roadmap, good boots, better vintage, and more.**This episode is sponsored by Grant Stone** 

My guest this week is multidisciplinary artist Nicholas Galanin.Nicholas is from the sitka tribe of Alaska and has exhibited his works all over the world, from the Whitney Museum and Museum of Modern Art, to the Abu Dhabi Biennial. His work challenges stereotypes of indigenous art while also addressing social and environmental issues.He recently received the Don Tyson Prize for outstanding achievement in American Art from the Crystal Bridges museum.Nicholas and I discuss life in Sitka, embracing cultural heritage, his incredible Never Forget series, fashion brands leveraging indigenous designs and more.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

My guest this week is musician Phil Cook.I have been listening to Phil Cook's Appalachia Borealis constantly – almost once a day. Sometimes, I'll put it on in the late evening; other times, it's what I put on when I'm making my coffee. I have found myself forgetting it was on and tearing up over what I'm hearing. I rarely know what I'm talking about here, but I cannot get over the power of music, and Appalachia Borealis knocks me out.Produced by Phil's close friend and frequent collaborator, Justin Vernon (Bon Iver), the album is so spacious that you can hear the room if you put headphones on. You can almost see where Phil sat in your mind when it was recorded. It's one of those albums you want on vinyl to dig deeper into.I sat down with Phil for a Blamo! episode a little bit ago, and we got into all of it. We discussed gospel music, parenting, and his friendship with the GOAT, Bruce Hornsby. It's all in there!**This episode is sponsored by Grant Stone **

My guests this week are the co-owners of Merz B. Schwanen, Gitta & Peter Plotnicki.Making clothes is hard, running a brand is hard, but Gitta and Peter do it incredibly well,and it was an absolute joy to speak with them about it on the pod.We discuss the infamous ‘The Bear' shirt, how they went from loop wheel to a full collection of sportswear, product over brand, the importance of customer input, how their personal styles reflect the collection and more.*https://merzbschwanen.com/

Patreon Preview from Blamo!On this episode, Derek and Peter are joined by Jacob Hurwitz, the founder of American Trench.They discuss the origins of the brand, what "American made" means and get into nitty gritty of cost breakdowns in manufacturing. They also discuss commodity vs artisanal, and what the future of domestic production looks like.**Listen to the entire episode and view all the shownotes on the Blamo! Patreon 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!We are incredibly pleased to present a special episode of the JJJ Show. If you're new here, the JJJ Show is hosted by Jeff Hilliard, Jeremy Kirkland, and Jian DeLeon. It's our fashion head podcast where we rant and dissect everything in menswear and fashion.BUT THIS episode is the one where we finally convinced Lance Panda, the influencer's influencer, to come on board.We recorded this the day we left Tokyo, and it almost didn't happen, but we got it!So, who is Lance Panda? Well, he's a bit of a mystery, yes, he's on social media, but Lance is honestly just a collector, and in my opinion, that one friend we all have who reminds you how much fun it is to like clothes, music, watches, whatever it is.We chat a bit about Lance's style, getting into the Japanese brand Goros, collecting Rolex, and why liking what you like is the best way to collect.**Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Corey Smith-West and David Hobdy of BatheCorey, and Dev stop by to chat to their influences, media diet, going on health kicks, creative constraints and what's coming next for the band.Bathe - Here (Official Video)

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Spring is for idle days and daydreaming. In this episode, Peter and Derek discuss what's on their tailoring wish list and what they hope to get sometime in the future.**Listen to the entire episode and view all the shownotes on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers.I have known Brian for nearly twenty years now, and it is a joy to watch his brand and business grow the right way - slow and steady.We discuss relaunching his retail store, partnership with LL Bean, good American vintage, working with Todd Snyder, and more.**This episode is brought to you by Grand Seiko

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Spring outfits are never as fun as their fall/winter counterparts, but they're also the last hurrah for light layering, chunky boots, and knitwear. Peter and Derek discuss some of their favorite clothes during this transitional season before summer. They also talk about some of their favorite rain gear, including outerwear and single-stick umbrellas from Italy.**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon 

The crew made it to Tokyo!Jeff, Jeremy, and Jian chat the first few days of the trip, including Tokyo department stores, touring the Grand Seiko Museum, cruising in Alphards, Beams+, slamming bad noodles, and choose your konbini! **This episode is brought to you by Grand Seiko Special thanks for letting us geek out in the museum :) 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Derek and Peter are back discussing the recent FW 25 shows from men's fashion week in Milan and Paris.**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Quaid Walker, co-founder of Bezel.Quaid and jump right in on the excitement and occasional anxiety of the watch world.We discuss watch churn, how Bezel has evolved over the years, imposter syndrome, getting nuts on auctions, engravings, and those classic “can I pull this off” moments.•• 

My guest this week is William McNicol, designer, and founder of William Frederick.William and I discuss his life growing up in Ohio, how one coat started the brand, fit pics at fashion week, his commitment to manufacturing in Ohio, supplier transparency, and last but not least, how his love of film shapes his brand.https://www.williamfrederickclothing.com*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

My guest this week is Alex Carleton, Chief Creative Officer of Filson.Alex and I discuss his origin and backstory, the #menswear boom of the 2010s, the Filson archive, and why consistency matters.Filson.comFollow Filson on Instagram*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Do you ever feel like fashion writers clap for whatever is sent down the runway? Derek and Peter chatted with Eugene Rabkin, founder of StyleZeitgeist, a fashion writer who is unafraid of criticism. They talk about what has been behind the slowdown in the luxury fashion market, why fashion criticism is hard to come by nowadays, and the "deskilling" of the consumer.**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Simon Crompton of Permanent Style.Simon and I dug into some stuff we've discussed a ton over the years - do "the rules" of getting dressed matter? And if you're so obsessed with “the rules” of dressing, do you miss out on the joy of getting dressed? We discuss how technology and chatbots have woven into brands and e-commerce, and what's still worth obsessing over.Dig in!Follow Permanent Style on Instagram

My guest this week is comedian and writer Robby Slowik.Robby has written for Jon Stewart, Jimmy Fallon, and more (also himself because he's funny af).He's a friend of the show, knows how to get a fit off, and has kept me laughing my ass off. robbyslowik.com*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Derek and Peter chatted with British bespoke shoemaker Sebastian Tarek.Sebastian makes traditional bespoke shoes for folks who have a more modern wardrobe. Think shoes made more for denim than a suit. Derek and Peter chat with Sebastian about his brand, philosophy and more.Follow Sebastian on Instagramhttps://sebastiantarek.com**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon 

We got a good show this week. Arianne Phillips is back on the pod.She's an incredible costume designer and is back to talk about A Complete Unknown, the recently released James Mangold film starring Timothée Chalamet about the early rise of Bob Dylan. If you haven't seen the movie, you need to – it's fantastic.Arianne and I chatted about turning Timothée Chalamet into Bob Dylan, dress codes in the 60s, how dressing a character can influence your own style, the recent Levi's collab, and more.Arianne's first appearance on Blamo!*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

My guest this week is Bartees Strange.Bartees is a phenomenal musician and songwriter. His new record, Horror, comes out February 14th on 4AD.Bartees and I discuss recording the new album, entering the Fit Pic era, his favorite designers, cityboy style, church music, horror films, and more.barteesstrange.comWatch the video for 'Sober' on YouTube*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Happy New Year!When it comes to style, some people like to travel down those safe, demarcated roads that lead to a higher chance of success, even if they result in predictable looks. Others have a greater appetite for risk and exploration. In this week's episode, Peter and Derek talk about the high risk/ high reward moves that will probably end in lifelong embarrassment, but could also make you a style legend.**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Nick Wakeman, founder and creative director of Studio Nicholson.Nick and discuss her love of film, Armani, her approach to design, what Japan gets right (spoiler nearly everything), teaching, retail, and more.It's all in there!Follow Studio Nicholson on InstagramStudioNicolson.com*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!With the holiday season here, Peter and Derek answer commonly asked holiday-related clothing questions. How should you dress while traveling? How do you pack? How should you dress for various social occasions, such as office parties, family get-togethers, and New Year's Eve celebrations? Finally, they share their holiday gift guide should you still be shopping for a last-minute gift.**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is musician and songwriter Pete YornTo me Pete has always embodied the classic, but humble rockstar. Something that may not even make sense.Whether he's collaborating with Scarlett Johansson or cutting it up on stage, he's just the easy-going humble dude.Pete and I discuss his recent album The Hard Way, Bob Dylan, being a homebody, what he learned from REM's Peter Buck, enjoying getting older, and more.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Jeff, Jeremy and Jian are back recapping Vegas, chatting holiday gift lists, finding the perfect gear, big fit jeans, hype coffee, and even what's the best tv buy?! Last but not least, our Ask Jian segment debuts!Dig in! **Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon 

Robert Geller returns to the pod!One of our favorite designers is back to discuss his new role as head menswear designer at Rag & Bone.A lot has changed since his first appearance on the pod in 2017. We revisit what's been happening in his life, chat through his design process, menswear's new landscape, boot fits, and what's next for Rag & Bone.Listen to Robert Geller's first appearance on Blamo!Rag & BoneFollow Robert Geller on Instagram*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Sponsored by G-Shock - Discover the full range this holiday season at Topper Jewelers

My guest this week is Dave 1 from Chromeo.Dave and I chat, all things Chromeo, the new album Adult Contemporary, building a solid wardrobe, when to stop copping, being happy, and John Mayer calling out his watch game.Listen to Adult Contemporary*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watchSponsored by G-Shock - Discover the full range this holiday season at Topper Jewelers

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Derek and Peter are back talking wardrobe fundamentals, and how to experiment with trends. The takes are hot…down to the blazer buttons.**Listen to the entire episode and read their list on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is designer Dana Lee of Dana Lee BrownIf the name rings a bell, this isn't her first time making clothes; she used to run her brand as Dana Lee in the late aughts. I remember getting her twill pants, which I still own, and they were simple, well made, and classic. She recently re-launched her brand not long ago after taking some time off, and it's incredible.It's a small collection, but as you'll hear, it's not made or manufactured the way her previous one was. In fact, she's one of the few brands I know that are leading the way in this “farm to loom” production. In fact, all of her stuff is made in a relatively local radius. It makes you think more.We chatted about her brand, why she manufactures this way, and her work with local makers to create the best menswear.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Fall is here! Peter and Derek discuss what they're excited to wear this season, including shearling outerwear, tweed sport coats, and chunky knitwear. They also talk about some new-ish brands they've been watching, including a compelling Japanese line that feels a bit like Lemaire but is sold at a more accessible price point! **Listen to the entire episode and read their list on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Guy TrebayGuy is an author and reporter for the style section of the New York Times. Guy has written about style and culture since the 1970s, from the Village Voice, Interview magazine, and countless other publications.His recently published memoir, Do Something: Coming of Age Amid the Glitter and Doom of ‘70s New York, discusses his early life in the up-and-coming art scene of New York and is an extraordinarily heartwarming and compassionate read. (I highly encourage you all to pick it up. It's a good one.)Guy and I discuss the current state of fashion, avoiding burnout, the brands he admires, and how retail is evolving. We also unpack more of his recently published memoir, Do Something.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

My guest this week is artist Phillip ToledanoYou might know him from his photography, the B/1 watch Toledano and Chan, ‘Geezer' style, Viva Bastardo or his other endeavors. Phillip discusses his early career, designing watches, photography, and AI art, and revisits a book that changed Jeremy's life. It's all in there!Follow Phillip on Instagram*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

My guest this week is Tim Heidecker.Tim's career contains multitudes—from his comedy career, Office Hours, to his acting to his music—it's all in there, and it's beautiful.Tim and I discuss family, Warren Zevon, Randy Newman, the Beatles, the difference between comedy and music, and his new album Slipping Away, releasing October 18th.Catch Tim Heidecker and The Very Good Band on tour in '25.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch 

My guest this week is Mike McLachlan of Manresa.Before we dive in, I have to say Mike gets into it, and I think his openness, vulnerability, and candor are among the things that truly set him apart.I'm not going to get philosophical here, but Mike constantly admits that he doesn't know what he doesn't know; he's just trying to make the best brand he can. Which, as you'll hear, is working.Mike and I discuss the origins of Manresa, big brother style,  sobriety, the recent GQ article declaring GORP is dead, making clothes for things you actually do, and what's next for the brand.Manresa Clothing*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Patreon Preview from Blamo!If you follow Derek on Twitter, you've probably seen photos of David Lane. He's the stylish guy who keeps popping up in Derek's threads about how to dress for different body types. Along with being an art teacher, David runs a custom leather goods business, where he mainly focuses on making handsewn leather watch straps (he even got the co-sign from Hodinkee some years ago when the two did a collab). In this week's episode, Peter and Derek talk with David about building a wardrobe if you're a larger guy, selecting the right watch for different types of wardrobes, and what to consider when choosing a watch strap. It's a long episode, but good! **Listen to the entire episode and on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Robert Triefus, CEO of Stone Island. Many people know him for helping to turn Gucci into an absolute powerhouse, but he's been in the industry for a long time—beginning his career in the early 90s. Robert has worked at Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani, but we dive right into Stone Island. Robert and I discuss his career in the industry, the brand's allure, the infamous arm badge, Oasis, the new Ghost Collection, and how Stone Island is evolving in today's landscape.**Presented by Stone Island - Learn more about the GHOST Collection and join the Blamo! Crew 9.9.24 at Stone Island in SoHo - Details on our Instagram

My guest this week is James PumphreyAfter leaving  Donut Media and turning the internet upside down, James is back with Speeed!James chats with us about why he left, the state of Car YouTube, getting into Good Art, why crying is great, big fits and what to expect from his new venture – Speeed.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Shopping All the Way to the Woods: How the Outdoor Industry Sold Nature to America isn't necessarily about men's style, but it explores an important theme that can be easily transposed to any discussion about menswear. It's a book about how people buy outdoor gear to create an idea of a more "authentic self" and connect with nature. Derek chats with the author and professor, Rachel Gross, about her research and how commercial culture is tied to creating identity.**Listen to the entire episode and on the Blamo! Patreon 

We got Mr. Throwback! More specifically, the co-creator Daniel Libman (who was also a co-creator of Champaign Ill, another favorite of mine), Olivia Perdoch, costume designer, and even Adam Pally join in to chat.Before we get too deep, Mr. Throwback is a new show on Peacock/NBC featuring Adam Pally, Steph Curry and Ego Nwodim.We chat, working with Steph Curry, digging for good vintage, tailoring, the infamous white whale redwings, and more.Dig in, Tune in, whatever it takes.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Antonio Ciongoli of 18 East is back!When he isn't skating ledges, he's riding big fits, and I was so glad he's back to dig in with me.Antonio helped usher in the big-fit revolution (or evolution). I don't care what you call it, but it's been amazing to watch Antonio's brand, 18 East, flourish over the years. He's such a talented designer and thankfully he joins me to check in on 18 East, Japan, LA pop ups and just being comfy.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Custom tailoring is fraught with potential problems. Maybe you chose a bad tailor or the wrong fabric, or a commission didn't come out as you hoped. Peter and Derek discuss some of the issues when wading into this territory and how to choose a good tailor.**Listen to the entire episode and on the Blamo! Patreon 

My guest this week is Luke Fracher of Luke's (NYC and now LA!)Luke is a legend in the fashion scene. He is known for his wild, hot takes on social media and for having some of the best gear you can find anywhere.His knowledge of brands is almost intimidating, but you would never feel it as he's a simple, humble guy – with a strong opinion. Luke and I chat about his life coming from Virginia, co-founding Round Two in LA, going full on YouTube, his love of Balenciaga, and bringing Luke's to LA. He's back, baby!Luke's Store*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Patreon Preview from Blamo!How does one become a bespoke tailor? Herrie Son is one of the few bespoke cutters left in the United States. She started at the London College of Fashion, where she focused on handcraft tailoring, and then did some work for Thom Sweeney and Welsh and Jefferies. She then flew back to the US and opened an independent bespoke tailoring shop in Nashville, Tennessee. Derek and Peter talk to her about what it's like to run a bespoke tailoring business in the US and how someone can enter this trade. **Listen to the entire episode and on the Blamo! Patreon