Sport of mountain climbing
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In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark chats with alpinist, climber, and trail runner, Vitaliy Musiyenko about the powerful lessons endurance athletes can learn from each other. Vitaliy shares his inspiring journey from an unhealthy teen to a top alpinist, emphasizing the value of mentorship, ego-checking, and relentless curiosity. He dives into the physical and mental demands of the Goliath Traverse and how it sparked his deep dive into endurance training. They also discuss the crossover between climbing and trail running, from pacing strategies to mountain safety, and how these skills are essential to success and longevity in the mountains. The episode wraps with a reflection on failure, growth, and the importance of keeping longevity and safety at the forefront of all mountain pursuits.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
Dan Benga, șeful Salvamont Maramureș, ne poartă pe granița dintre viață și moarte în munți, povestind despre misiuni extreme, lecții crunte de supraviețuire, și cum măsoară performanța în vieți salvate, nu în bani. Am discutat despre echipamentul esențial, pericolele din munți, și despre poveștile emoționante ale celor salvați, subliniind importanța pregătirii și a empatiei în fața naturii și a situațiilor limită.IGDLCC înseamnă Informații Gratis despre Lucruri care Costă! Totul ne costă dar mai ales timpul așa că am făcut această serie pentru a mă informa și educa alături de invitați din domeniile mele de interes. Te invit alături de mine în această călătorie. Mi-am propus să mă facă mai informat și mai adaptat la schimbările care vin. Sper să o facă și pentru tine.
HERE you can support Andata e Ritorno - Storie di Montagna."John Bachar, an icon of free solo climbing, was convinced of the value of the purity of the climbing gesture. He climbed mostly without protection for over 30 years, viewing climbing as a true lifestyle, not just a sport For Bachar, free soloing was his way of getting as close as possible to perfection. He believed in skill over technology"The text was written by Martina Guglielmi, author of an Italian podcast that explores stories and memories of the mountains. The translation and narration were generated by artificial intelligence; they were later processed and modified to ensure the best possible listening experience. We believe that using this technology makes it possible to share certain types of stories, memories, characters, and underexplored regions with an international audience. We want to give something back to the mountains, and to do so, we've chosen audio as our medium. You also have the opportunity to support and review this project; all the details can be found in the episode description. We hope you enjoy listening!www.storiedimontagna.comContacts: andataeritorno.podcast@gmail.com Our Instagram page
HERE you can support Andata e Ritorno - Storie di Montagna.In this episode, you will find important updates for the podcast, including the translation of content into English using artificial intelligence to reach a wider audience, and the opportunity for listeners to financially support the project. The episode discusses the podcast's sustainability through publications and listening goals, highlighting current expenses. The aim is to showcase stories from lesser-known territories, as demonstrated by listeners who have visited the places.www.storiedimontagna.comContacts: andataeritorno.podcast@gmail.com Our Instagram page
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark is joined by Kylee Van Horn and Zoë Rom, creators of the Your Diet Sucks podcast, to discuss the dangers of nutrition myths and fad diets in endurance sports. They explore why extreme athletes are particularly susceptible to restrictive eating patterns, the misconceptions surrounding low-carb and fasted training, and the potential risks these approaches pose to both performance and health. Kylee and Zoe emphasize the importance of balanced nutrition, critical thinking, and recognizing the emotional and social aspects of food choices. They also offer insights on how athletes can resist diet trends by questioning sources, focusing on fundamentals, and seeking expert guidance. The conversation challenges the allure of quick fixes and reinforces the value of sustainable, evidence-based fueling strategies.If you'd like to listen to Your Diet Sucks, check it out on apple, spotify or your favorite podcast platform. You can learn more about Zoë and Kylee by visiting @youdietsucks, @carrot_flower_z or @flynutrition3 on instagram.If you'd like to learn more about Uphill Athlete, visit Uphillathlete.com or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
Mauri DiMeo is an Infantry officer in the US Army currently serving as an Assistant Professor of Military Science (APMS) at the University of Nevada, Reno (UNR). He attended Ranger, Airborne, SFAS, the SFQC, and the Austrian High Alpine School. Mauri was a platoon leader in the 4th Infantry Division and Rifle Company Commander in the 10th Mountain Division. His career took a turn in the final Robin Sage stage of the SF Q course, which we discuss early in our conversation. The lessons he learned there are important for any officer going through the SF qualification process. Outside of the military, Mauri founded Tactical Alpinism in 2022 with the mission to expand the capability of individuals to go bigger in the mountains by teaching mountain navigation and planning best practices. Enabling people to go bigger in the mountains expands the military's capability in this environment by focusing on the expertise of the individual within mountain and arctic units. He professionally guides in the mountains in the ski, rock, and alpine disciplines.His mountain experience includes two decades of climbing across much of the world and multiple ski-based ascents and descents, including Mount Shasta, Mount Rainier, and Denali, all by multiple routes. His civilian mountain certifications include AIARE Avalanche Professional Level 2, AIARE Avalanche Instructor, AMGA Assistant Ski Guide, and AMGA Assistant Rock Guide.More about Mauri:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tacticalalpinism/Timestamps:00:00:23 Introduction to Mauri DiMeo00:01:49 Mauri DiMeo's Career 00:03:20 Final Year at West Point00:04:26 Preparing for the Course00:05:32 Junior West Point Cadet00:08:45 Doing Too Much00:10:54 10th Mountain Warfare Training00:15:56 Ready in a Month00:18:13 Conventional Units in Cold Environments00:21:48 The Gap Between What Soldiers Are Taught and Tying Knots 00:26:09 Practicing Skills Where They Matter00:28:20 Tactical Avalanche Education00:32:13 Avalanche Bell Curve Management00:36:20 Speed is Safety00:42:00 Time Recommended to Build Aerobic Capacity00:46:50 Balancing Volume Training00:51:03 Zone 2 Running vs Rucking00:55:34 Getting the Body to Do What It's Meant to Do00:58:48 Effective Mental Frameworks in the Mountains01:02:27 Filling Gaps in Military Training01:05:34 Tactical Core Skills for Operating in the Snowy Mountains01:10:25 What Does Mauri DiMeo Do with Tactical Alpinism?01:12:20 Best and Worst Advice Ever Received01:14:44 Outro
Today I have a truly groundbreaking story from one of my previous show guests Nathan Longhurst. Last time I spoke with Nathan, he was fresh off his solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali and making waves in the climbing community. At the time, he had also just discovered his next passion—paragliding. I remember joking back then, hoping he wouldn't get hurt as he dove headfirst into this new pursuit. But just a few weeks later, he crashed—breaking his pelvis.Since then, Nathan has pushed even further in fulfilling his vision of merging the sports of solo alpinism and flight. Becoming a leading pioneer in a budding new style of alpinism. His latest project in New Zealand involves linking together 100 technical alpine peaks not just by climbing them, but also flying between them. His goal? To Successfully summit all of “New Zealand's 100 Greatest Peaks”. A curated list of New Zealand's 100 most iconic mountains that had only ever been climbed by one man Don French —a journey that took him nearly 34 years to accomplish. However, on February 27th 2025 Nathan managed to complete the entire objective in a staggering 103 days. revolutionizing what's possible in mountain travel by blending the skills of an alpinist and a foil pilot.But this wasn't just a smooth, picturesque journey through the mountains. Along the way, Nathan battled snow blindness after losing his sunglasses, survived loose rock fall that nearly ended his entire mission, and had to manage the terrifying reality of flying on a damaged wing after a failed launch high up on a rocky ridge. Every decision mattered, and with each new challenge, he was forced to recalibrate his limits, balancing the thrill of the unknown with the ever-present dangers of both the air and the mountains.This conversation goes deep. We talk about the mental and physical challenges of combining two of the most committing mountain disciplines, how his perception of risk evolved after cheating death during a crash landing due to catastrophic canopy failure…, and the logistical puzzles of executing a cutting edge project that has just simply never been done before. At the point of releasing this conversation Nathan has yet to speak with anyone about the intimate details of his experience ... .and I am honored to share his story…So nowI bring you 3 hrs of Nathan Longhurst.----HELP KEEP THIS PODCAST AD FREE! | For a little as $3/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesNathan's IGNew Zealand's 100 Greatest Peaks List
This week on episode 494, I'm talking with Christian Beckwith, podcaster, founder, and executive director of the Teton Climbers Coalition. Christian has spent more than 30 years immersed in the world of alpinism. Facebook Twitter Instagram Love the show? Subscribe, rate, review, and share! Sign up for my Newsletter HERE I'd love to hear your feedback about the show! You can contact me here: rick@theoutdoorbizpodcast.com Show Notes I've always thought I was tough—until I heard Christian Beckwith's story about soldiers in the 10th Mountain Division lugging 90-pound rucksacks up snowy peaks. Yeah, you read that right. Ninety pounds. I complain when my backpack has an extra water bottle. Christian didn't just stumble on this story; he's been living it. Picture this: a guy obsessed with climbing history starts digging into old summit registers (yes, that's a thing), trying to understand why climbing activity flatlined during WWII. What he found wasn't just a gap in the record—it was a portal into a hidden chapter of outdoor history. Turns out, the 10th Mountain Division wasn't just fighting battles overseas; they were rewriting the playbook for outdoor adventure. Their training? Skiing with ancient gear, battling blizzards, and carrying enough weight to break the spirit of any weekend warrior. And when they came home, they didn't just hang up their skis—they built the ski resorts and outdoor culture we know today. Here's the kicker: The adventures we take for granted today—ski trips, alpine climbing, even the gear we use—exist because of people who pushed past the limits of what was comfortable, convenient, or even reasonable. Growth doesn't come from playing it safe; it comes from leaning into discomfort, whether that's a literal 90-pound pack or the metaphorical weight of trying something new. Most people think adventure is about escaping comfort zones. But here's the truth: It's about what you bring back from the edge. If you've ever felt stuck—like your outdoor goals (or personal ones) are out of reach—it might be because you're missing the bigger picture: the legacy of resilience that shaped the very trails you're walking. That's why in this episode of the Outdoor Adventure Lifestyle Podcast, Christian Beckwith shares how the forgotten grit of the 10th Mountain Division still shapes our outdoor experiences today. Their story isn't just history—it's a lesson in how to live with purpose, courage, and maybe even a heavier backpack (metaphorically speaking… unless you're into that). Feeling like your outdoor adventures lack depth or connection? It's not just you—most of us don't realize the roots that ground our passions. Don't let that disconnect hold you back. Discover the untold story behind your favorite outdoor spaces and find new inspiration for your own journey. Listen to the full episode here and get ready to carry your own “90-pound rucksack” in life—with pride. Ninety Pound Rucksack Podcast Camp Hale Teton Climbers Coalition
In the latest Uphill Athlete podcast episode, Alyssa interviews Tanner Wanish, a former Navy SEAL turned elite climber known for his record-breaking Yosemite Triple Crown ascent. Tanner shares his unconventional entry into climbing, his disciplined training regimen, and his perspective on balancing risk and endurance in high-altitude technical climbing. They discuss the mental and physical challenges of pushing limits while maintaining safety, particularly in extreme endurance events like the Yosemite Quad. The conversation also touches on his experience with sponsorships, overtraining, injury management, and the importance of listening to one's instincts in dangerous situations. Tune in for a fantastic episode with one of the rising voices in climbing.If you'd like to follow Tanner's adventures, you can check him out on instagram at @ilikebigbutress If you'd like to learn more about our offerings, please visit uphillathlete.com or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
The last regular episode of season one of Voice of the Mountains wraps with the legendary high-altitude mountaineer, Ed Viesturs. Ed is the first American to summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen, a testament to his unparalleled grit and respect for the mountains. With his famous mantra, "getting to the top is optional; getting down is mandatory," Ed's philosophy has inspired climbers and adventurers alike for decades. Join Steve and Ed as they delve into his remarkable journey, his approach to risk, and the invaluable lessons he's learned from a lifetime in the world's harshest environments.If you'd like to read the companion essay and learn more about Voice of the Mountains, please visit: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/You can learn more about Uphill Athlete and our offerings at: uphillathlete.com
Jost Kobusch is just back from Everest, where he is doing a multi-year project to climb the tallest mountain in the world... by himself... without oxygen... up the incredibly difficult West Ridge route in the middle of winter. In winter, the effective altitude of Everest is over 9,000 meters, and the winds can reach 250 km/hour (155 mph). And - on top of that - the mountain was hit by a powerful earthquake while he was on it. Find out... How Jost Kobusch optimises his training The relative importance of physical vs mental attributes in extreme sport How he overcame a potentially career-ending injury The dichotomy of fitness vs experience for maximum performance What it's like to be a full-time athlete Jost's best advice for someone who is considering an Everest climb! And more Check out Jost's Altitude Academy https://jostkobusch.de/en/akademie/ and/or follow him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/jostkobusch Finally, if you've read down this far, you must like adventure stories, so check out my new book, "Perseverance, Live and Death in the Subarctic" available everywhere you can get books, including https://www.amazon.com/Perseverance-Death-Subarctic-Stephan-Kesting/dp/1639368612/ Please share this episode with somone who you think will like it! Cheers, Stephan Kesting
Today, I am sharing a conversation with you that has truly left me inspired and honestly pretty humbled. Wayne Wallace—a name that might not immediately ring bells for some of you outside the Pacific Northwest, but one that should. Wayne is, without exaggeration, a living legend in the climbing world. His dedication to the craft spans decades, and his career has been marked by unparalleled passion, mentorship, alpine route development, and pure adventure. In this episode, we dive deep into Wayne's journey—from his early days discovering climbing in a world where the technology for clean free climbing was just starting to be developed… to decades later, becoming one of the most prolific alpine route developers in the Pacific Northwest, with countless FA's including the mythical Mongo Ridge of West Fury. We'll explore his process for creating new routes, the ethical dilemmas of bolting, and how he views his role as a mentor to the next generation. As an advocate for important and thoughtful climbing ethics— he promotes balancing the ego of creation with the responsibility of establishing routes that others can safely climb after you. Wayne also opens up about the transitions climbers face as they age, and what it means to continue finding joy in the sport when your approach—and body—changes. Wayne's adaptability is a testament to his love for all disciplines of the sport. He openly shares lessons learned from his close calls, the importance of bailing when necessary, and his commitment to leaving a positive legacy. His reflections on balancing ambition with survival are a powerful reminder that climbing is not just about reaching summits—it's about passion, community, and the wisdom you gain as you survive a lifetime of climbing. Talking with Wayne felt like stepping into a world of climbing that I've only scratched the surface of. His humility and depth of experience were both inspiring and intimidating. This man has lived a life devoted to climbing in a way that few can comprehend. And now I bring you…Explorer, Mentor, Route Developer, and self proclaimed serial sandbagger.. Wayne Wallace. ----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesWayne's WebsiteWayne's IGWayne's Mountain Project ProfileAAC Write Up on The Mongo Ridge
Welcome back, everyone. I'm your host, Kyle Broxterman, and today we're continuing our conversation with Eric and Matthew Gilbertson. If you missed Part One, I highly recommend circling back to listen before continuing here, as we'll be jumping right into the middle of our two-hour conversation.Just in the past two weeks, Eric returned from a trip to Colombia with some groundbreaking news. Due to glacial melt, the country's previously recognized highest peak has lost about 50 meters in elevation and after surveying the region, Eric officially confirmed a new highest point in Colombia—previously thought to be Pico Colón, but now officially Pico Bolívar, stands at 5,720 meters. Reaching its summit requires an eight-pitch climb, featuring 5.6 M2 WI2 terrain. As always, Eric has documented the entire expedition in a detailed trip report, which you can find linked in the show notes.With this latest achievement, the twins have now collectively summited 146 of the 195 country high points across the world.In today's episode, we take a deeper dive into some of the most unique, bizarre, and dangerous experiences they've encountered along their mission to summit all the country highpoints. Mountains permanently closed for religious reasons, approaches through active minefields, climbing walls made of roots and jungle vegetation, and first ascents in the remote Canadian wilderness—this conversation truly showcases the extreme variety of challenges they've faced.As I mentioned before, condensing 146 global mountain ascents into just two hours is nearly impossible. But my hope is that this conversation spreads the word about their mission and the incredible accomplishments they've achieved so far. Eric and Matthew Gilbertson are truly modern-day explorers in every sense of the word.----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesCountry Highpoints WebsiteEric Gilbertson's IGBooks
Rick Ridgeway, renowned mountaineer, environmentalist, and storyteller, joins host Steve House on Voice of the Mountains to share insights from a life lived boldly and with purpose. Known as the "real Indiana Jones," Ridgeway recounts transformative adventures, from summiting K2 to walking across Kenya's wild bushlands. He delves into the profound lessons learned from nature, loss, and resilience, emphasizing the power of purpose-driven living. Along the way, he reflects on his relationships, including partnerships that shaped his climbing career and personal evolution. This episode is a testament to the enduring impact of values, exploration, and living a life bigger than oneself.If you'd like to see the companion essay and more information on Voice of the Mountains, please visit: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark welcomes coach and mountaineer Martin Zhor to discuss his recent climb of Manaslu, an 8,000-meter peak in the Himalayan mountains. The two discuss Martin's lifelong dream of high-altitude climbing and details the challenges he faced in achieving this milestone. From years of endurance training and studying acclimatization strategies to overcoming logistical, physical, and mental hurdles, Martin provides an insightful look into his experiences in high altitude mountaineering. He emphasizes the unpredictable nature of such expeditions, the importance of preparation, and the sheer determination required to succeed. Tune in for an incredible story and an educational experience on what it takes to climb an 8000m peak without oxygen.Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com or visit us at uphillathlete.com
Today, we continue our conversation with the legendary Paul Ramsden. If you missed Part 1, hit pause and go back to the last episode—it's essential listening. In this episode, we pick up with the second of Paul's FIVE Piolet d'Or-winning climbs: The Prow of Shiva. From there, we journey through each climb, exploring the lessons, challenges, and reflections that have shaped his remarkable career. We close with Paul's insights on life, climbing philosophy, and advice for anyone daring to follow in his path.As we wrap up this incredible conversation, I want to send a huge thank you to Paul for trusting me to share his story. If this episode resonated with you, don't hesitate to reach out—I'll gladly pass along your messages to him. ----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---Piolets d'Or Award Winning Climbs#1 North Face of Siguniang, China (2003) w/ Mick Fowler#2 Prow of Shiva, India (2013) w/ Mick Fowler#3 Gave Ding, Nepal (2016) w/ Mick Fowler#4 North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East, Tibet (2016) w/ Nick Bullock#5 Phantom Line on Jugal Spire, Nepal (2023) w/ Tim Miller
Voice of the Mountains host Steve House welcomes renowned climber Conrad Anker on to the podcast. They discuss Conrad's journey in mountaineering, his philosophy, and his leadership within the climbing community. They reflect on lessons learned in their own early climbing experiences, noting how climbing became a way to understand themselves and build resilience.Conrad emphasizes the motivations behind mountaineering, contrasting reward-seeking with purpose-driven pursuits. He describes his path from climbing as a youth in the Sierra Nevada to his extensive expeditions across the world. They discuss the importance of trust and connection between climbing partners, as well as the responsibilities and ethical considerations in leadership, especially within the climbing community.Conrad also shares insights into his work with the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) in Nepal, which provides education and training to Sherpa climbers. The conversation highlights Conrad's belief in silent leadership, leading by example, supporting others, and focusing on collective success rather than personal accolades.The two legends of climbing reflect on legacy, risk, loss, and the impact of experiencing grief in the climbing world. Tune in for an episode full of wisdom and empathy we can all learn from.
Today, I'm beyond excited to share a truly rare and special opportunity: a conversation with UK climbing legend Paul Ramsden. The Piolets d'Or—often called the Oscars of mountaineering—is the highest honor in alpine climbing, awarded to only those who demonstrate the pinnacle of style and commitment in the mountains. With past recipients like David Lama, Mick Fowler, and Hayden Kennedy, the award emphasizes ascents done in ‘alpine style'—no bolts, no portaledges, no siege tactics. Just you, your partner, and what you can carry on your back as you tackle an unclimbed wall on an unclimbed mountain. And Paul Ramsden? He holds five Piolets d'Or—the most of any climber in history.For Paul, style isn't just about the ethics—it's the heart of his climbing philosophy. His unwavering commitment to ‘alpine style' is how he authentically experiences the mountains. It's a pure test of his ability to move efficiently, confidently, and quickly over technical terrain in extreme high-altitude environments.What makes Paul even more unique is his aversion to the spotlight. Despite his unparalleled achievements, he has stayed largely out of the public eye. Beyond the write-ups he and his partners have contributed to the American Alpine Journal, there's almost no available information about him. In fact, this might very well be the first time Paul has spoken openly about his life, his climbs, and his distinct approach to the climbing world. It's truly an honor to have the chance to share his story.This conversation is split into two parts. In Part I, we'll get to know Paul—where he came from, what shaped him, and how he became the climber he is today. Then in Part II, we'll dive into the specifics of each of the five individual climbs that earned him the Piolets d'Or. So, get ready for 2 and a half hours of stories, lessons, insights, and life lessons with the legendary Paul Ramsden.----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesGOOGLE Paul Ramsden
This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you've ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that's what today's conversation is about.We're doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems. Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.
In this episode we're discussing endurance training with an extremely qualified guest with a world class competitive ultra marathon resume. Alyssa Clark is a professional mountain runner, coach, podcast host and training plans director for Uphill Athlete. As a military spouse, running and coaching have been the constants she can bring with her no matter the duty station. She is also a multisport athlete with pursuits in winter adventures including large mountain link-ups through ski mountaineering, Alpinism, and ice climbing with her husband, Codi who is active duty Navy. Alyssa and Codi currently reside in San Diego, CA with their two Italian cats named Michael Scott and Dwight Schrute. To get an idea of the level of competitor she is in ultra running, here are a few of her race performances: 1st female finisher at Canyons Endurance Runs by UTMB 2023 1st female finisher at HURT 100 2023 1st female finisher at Moab 240 Race 2022Ran 95 marathons in 95 days in 2020FKT on the 350-mile Pinhoti TrailOuray 100-mile women's winner in 2021 And since recording, she also won the UTMB Puerto Vallarta 100k through Mexico's Sierra Madre mountains, qualifying her for the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB). You can find her on Instagram @theory_in_motion We mentioned Uphill Athlete's recent podcast about fasted training, you can find it here.
Artificial intelligence, quantum computing and satellites have the potential to exponentially improve our capability to monitor and predict the impacts of climate change on our environment.As floods and natural disasters hit Nepal and other countries this summer, in this episode of the On Thin Ice podcast we look at how new technologies and other proven methods can help stay safe in the mountains and in the great outdoors. Host Paolo Bosonin speaks with Laura Kottlowski, professional ice skater and influencer with tens of millions of viewers on TikTok and Instagram, and Tenzing Chogyal Sherpa, glaciologist at ICIMOD.Laura Kottlowski shares her insights from years of studying frozen lakes around the world, and explains how her discipline is having to adapt to the loss of ice around the world, where many natural ice rinks are quickly disappearing.Tenzing Chogyal Sherpa, who has been closely watching the evolution of glaciers around Mount Everest and other parts of the Himalayas, breaks down some of the dangers faced by local populations: with melting glaciers, there are more and more lakes that could outburst and cause massive damage to villages and people living downstream.But Tenzing, Laura and other scientists say artificial intelligence and machine learning can scale up their ability to process satellite images and other data, allowing for a better understanding of the consequences of higher temperatures on our world's ice - and on the communities whose lives depend on it.So can AI help us mitigate the risks brought by climate change? Listen to On Thin Ice, produced in partnership with the Bally Peak Outlook Foundation.Head to https://www.ballypeakoutlook.org/ to learn more about the foundation, which is on a mission to safeguard the world's fragile mountain habitats from the adverse effects of global warming and excessive tourism. LINKS:https://www.ballypeakoutlook.org/https://www.iceworm.mediahttps://www.instagram.com/laurakottlowski/?hl=enhttps://www.tiktok.com/@laura.kottlowski?lang=enhttps://www.icimod.org/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/research/group/ai-for-good-research-lab/ai-for-good-book/PRODUCTION CREDITS:Production: Iceworm MediaEditorial advisor: David VetterVideo Editor: Canyon JamesOriginal Music: Nadir CassimTAGS:AI, Artifical Intelligence, Satellites, Climate Change, AI for Good, science, alpinism, climbing, glaciologist, Sherpa, Namche Bazar, Thame, Lobuche, Quantum computing, climate change, Everest, Floods, disasters, Nepal, Colorado, Ice Skating, TikTok, Instgram, Influencer, Safety, Ice, Thin Ice, Natural RinksWould you like to suggest guests and projects that we should cover? Do you have feedback or questions? Email paolo@iceworm.media
Steve welcomes long time climbing partner, extremely accomplished mountain athlete, IFMGA guide, Piolet d‘Or winner, owner of Skyward mountaineering, dad, and husband, Vince Anderson, to the podcast. They discuss their groundbreaking ascent of the Rupal face on Nanga Parbat in 2005 and work to find meaning and understanding of the origin of thoughts, feelings, and motivations in the mountains. They connect those findings back to established schools of thought and the experience they had on Nanga Parbat. With the framework of the climbs, Steve and Vince try to unpack the meaning of suffering and the undying belief in the meaning and importance of their actions. On the 19th anniversary of their landmark climb, these two legends of the sport share their wisdom and learnings from years of hard earned experience.Check out more information on this episode at: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/
On this episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, book club edition, Steve dives into the minds of today's most inspiring authors and helps listeners to learn from the mountain world's most important thought leaders. In this book club episode, Steve welcomes Luis Benitez to the podcast to discuss his new book, Higher Ground. Luis is a mountain guide, government worker, executive leadership development expert, and professor among many other positions. Steve and Luis break down the impetus for Higher Ground and the main thesis of the book, the human potential within the mountain community at large. You can find out more about the book at www.highergroundbook.com.If you would like to learn more about Uphill Athlete, please visit us at uphillathlete.com
I'm sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude
Can Africa become the next innovation hub for climate tech?From solar power to recycled materials and carbon capture, an array of technological advances are promising to help humanity live more sustainably–and fight global warming. But for now, much of that tech is still out of reach for most people in the Global South. In Africa, some pioneering entrepreneurs and advocates are trying to change that: in this episode of On Thin Ice, host Paolo Bosonin speaks with climate entrepreneur Bilha Ndirangu and alpinist Saray Khumalo, who share their strategies for making Africa a global climate innovation hub.Saray, who is credited with breaking several records, including becoming the first Black woman to complete the so-called Seven Summits, climbs and guides groups to raise money to bring a better education to children across the continent. Bilha is known for leading several climate related projects in Africa, and she recently announced an ambitious partnership with ClimeWorks of Switzerland to build a massive carbon capture facility.So what's at stake for a continent that emits a small percentage of global emissions, and yet faces direct consequences of climate change, such as droughts, natural disasters, and the disappearance of glaciers?Bilha and Saray say the solutions lie in Africa's young population, in its rich natural resources, and fast-growing economies.On Thin Ice is produced by Iceworm Media, in partnership with the Bally Peak Outlook Foundation. Head to ballypeakoutlook.org/ to learn more about the foundation's mission to safeguard the world's most fragile mountain habitats from the adverse effects of global warming and excessive tourism.Production credits:Script editor and editorial advisor: Dave VetterVideo and audio editor: Canyon James Coleman-McdowallOriginal music: Nadir CassimWould you like to suggest guests and projects that we should cover? Do you have feedback or questions? Email paolo@iceworm.media
Text us your thoughts about this episode or ideas for future episodes!Kilian Jornet joins the Singletrack Podcast to talk about how mountain sports have evolved - with motivations shifting from scientific exploration to nationalism to self-centeredness in modern times, how the concept of the impossible is debated in mountaineering and trail running - with some questioning the impact of technological advancements, the idea of reducing consumption and rethinking business models to help minimize the outdoor industry's footprint, and his involvement working to secure a better relationship between pro athletes and race organizations like UTMB.Timestamps:00:00 The Evolution of Motivations in Mountain Sports04:08 The Influence of Society and Culture on Athletes07:02 The Debate on the Concept of the Impossible13:56 Contrasting Philosophical Aspects of Mountaineering and Trail Running50:13 The Positive Role of Competition56:22 The Importance of the Pro Trail Runners Association, UTMB ObservationsSponsors:Naak - use code SINGLETRACK20 at checkout on their website (https://www.naak.com/) to get 20% off your purchase.Rabbit - use code Singletrack20 at checkout on their website (https://www.runinrabbit.com/) to get 20% off your next order.deltaG Ketones - use code Singletrack20 at checkout on their website (https://www.deltagketones.com/SINGLETRACK20) to get 20% off your next order.Links:Follow Kiilian on Instagram, Strava, Website, NnormalFollow Singletrack on Instagram, Strava, YoutubeSupport the Show.
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast season on altitude, Alyssa welcomes IFMGA guide and Uphill Athlete coach, Jerome Sullivan, on to the podcast. Jerome has spent significant time climbing technical objectives in high to extreme altitudes and has found much success in being awarded a Piolets d'Or in 2016. Jerome and Alyssa discuss the risks and challenges of not only existing, but performing at high altitudes. They dive into the mental and physical preparations as well as the deep partnerships needed to stay safe in difficult objectives. They also discuss Jerome's memorable experiences at altitude and when to choose between continuing forward and turning back. Join us for an exciting conversation about what it takes to perform at altitude.Check out more information here: https://uphillathlete.com/mountaineering-training/Or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
Welcome back to part two of our chat with James Barrow! In our last episode, we heard about James' journey as a climber and what events ultimately lead to his most recent achievement: The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. A link up that covers 20 distinct peaks, and 18.5k of elevation gain over 28 miles. The terrain involves runouts upon runouts, canyoneering, bushwacking, steep snow travel, soloing, and an abundance of massive full 70m rappels using a fiddle stick. At 5.9+R/M2R. Nothing of this length or technical difficulty has been done in Zion in over 20 years. Today, we're diving into a step-by-step trip report. We'll cover the major milestones, close calls, and all the intricate details of this massive desert alpine link up.If you haven't already, I highly recommend doing a bit of homework on The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. Check out the resources in the show notes to get a sense of the massive scale and seriousness of this objective.I'll keep this intro brief since we've got a lot to cover. So, without further ado, let's jump back into our conversation with James Barrow.----Don't forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out, just like James did. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesJames Barrow's IGThe Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse
We are thrilled to release the first episode of our new series, Voice of the Mountains. Hosted by legendary climber Steve House, the first episode welcomes Barry Blanchard. He hardly needs an introduction, but Barry is an Alpinist, a mountain guide, a father, a mentor and a dear friend to many. Barry and Steve explore the connection of Barry's childhood and his foundation and desire to be a mountain climber. From Barry's Metis heritage, to his connection with the mountains and those that challenges themselves within their grace, the two cover a wide array of their experiences and what it means to live a life in the mountains. This is the first in the Voice of the Mountains series as the podcast explores a range of ideas with the hope of building a philosophy of the mountains.You can learn more about Barry's climbing here. Also you can purchase Barry's book at this link. Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com or visit us at uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Alyssa and Steve welcome AMGA guide Bill Allen, to discuss guiding practices and client preparation at altitude. They provide recommendations for clients concerned about altitude, how a guide assists and assess' clients at high altitudes and how guides keep themselves safe on the mountain. They continue with common mistakes they see from clients and offer specific advice to make the best out of your high altitude mountain trip. Tune in to hear from two expert guides and learn their perspective on staying safe in the mountains.Check out more information here: https://uphillathlete.com/mountaineering-training/Or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com You can learn more about Mountain Trip at: https://mountaintrip.com/
In the newest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Director of Coaching, Chantelle Robitaille and Director of Memberships Alexa Hasman, join Alyssa to discuss mental training tips in the preparation phase for big mountain expeditions or races in altitude. The three break down the unique mental challenges athletes face at altitude as well as sound principles of mental training recommended for safety and success. They address fears athletes may face in higher altitudes along with how to manage the stress of travel and foreign environments. Continue your altitude education with this episode to prime your mental game.Check out more information here: https://uphillathlete.com/mountaineering-training/Or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
What are the things in your life that have infinite complexity upon closer inspection?I'm betting you didn't expect that question on a podcast about ice climbing.But that's Jackson Yip for ya. An atmospheric researcher by training who specializes in cloud-microphysics, Jackson is also a deeply passionate climber and alpinist who has coupled his interests in a myriad of ways.Whether scrabbling through murky datasets or slogging to break trail, Jackson finds beauty in the mundane and labyrinthine.In this wide-ranging conversation, we talk about:Cloud physics and the complexity of turbulenceThe importance of first-hand experienceHow to develop mental modelsWhy we can and need to do better when evaluating ice conditionsThe mechanics of pillar collapseAnd moreHope you enjoy this chat, I certainly did. Timestamps:01:41 - The concept of heat death and its implications04:00 - Having perspective05:37 - The complexity of cloud micro-physics09:15 - Observing and first-hand experience11:30 - Engineering challenges in climate research17:58 - Predicting ice formations20:20 - The tragic consequences of misreading ice conditions23:10 - Mechanics of slip-out pillar collapse28:31 - The importance of patience in climbing and life35:38 - Accessible doesn't mean easy or safe41:13 - The seasons of life42:43 - Supporting socioeconomic equality Resources and links:If you're interested in collaborating on one of the ice climbing models that Jackson mentioned, you can reach him at jackson.yip@utah.edu. To connect with him on Instagram, he's @jp_yip. You can learn more about his research on his website: jpyip.comFind the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by Jackson YipIntro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Where Arts & Adventure summits the airwaves, this is the Ogden Arts & Adventure Show!! R. Brandon Long and Todd Oberndorfer are your hosts for the greatest arts & adventure podcast in all the land. GUESTS: Colton Edwards & Noah Pollard // Alpinists Luis Alvaro Sahagun Nuno // Ogden Contemporary Arts Artist-In -Residence MORE OAA: https://www.facebook.com/ogdenoutdooradventure https://www.instagram.com/ogdenadventure/ https://www.thebanyancollective.com/ogden-outdoor-adventure-show OUTDOOR JUKEBOX: “Lord Take Me Away” // The Dustbowl Collective Watch more Van Sessions on YouTube here: https://www.youtube.com/@vansessionspod Thank you to BANYAN1 for powering today's Episode of the Ogden Arts & Adventure Show! Listen and Subscribe to Ogden Arts & Adventure on YouTube! Look for us on Facebook, Instagram, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, thebanyancollective.com, and on the Podbean App for Android & iPhones. Find value in this podcast, consider supporting us here: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/banyanmedia DM us on Instagram @ogdenadventure
At the first Winter Olympics, medals were awarded to mountain climbers for scaling the greatest peaks in the world. It wasn't even an actual competition that took place during the Games, but these men got Olympic medals nonetheless. Alison explains how and why the Olympics awarded medals in Alpinism, including the fact that the team who won this award was truly a mixed-country team, the likes of which we don't really see very often in Olympic history. For sources and a transcript of this episode, please visit http://flamealivepod.com. Thanks so much for listening, and until next time, keep the flame alive! Photo credit: Project Gutenberg *** Keep the Flame Alive: Games History Moment with hosts Jill Jaracz & Alison Brown is released monthly. In 2024, these episodes explore the first Winter Olympic Games at Chamonix, France in 1924. Look for our regular episodes every week, with daily editions during the Olympics and Paralympics. Support the show: http://flamealivepod.com/support Bookshop.org store: https://bookshop.org/shop/flamealivepod Hang out with us online: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/flamealivepod Insta: http://www.instagram.com/flamealivepod X: http://www.twitter.com/flamealivepod Facebook Group: hhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/flamealivepod Newsletter: Sign up at http://flamealivepod.com VM/Text: (208) FLAME-IT / (208) 352-6348
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Steve chats with long time friend and climbing partner, Josh Wharton. Josh is a man of all trades in climbing and a highly accomplished climber. Steve and Josh dig into the origins of Josh's climbing dating back generations to his families experiences in the UK. The two discuss how his family's principles around climbing influenced Josh's career and passions. They bounce around the climbing areas that have been most meaningful to Josh and how he grew through the lessons he learned on the walls. Two legends of the climbing world reminisce on past experiences and how their learnings can be applied to future generations.If you'd like to learn more about Uphill Athlete, visit uphillathlete.com or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Steve chats with Lindsey Hamm and Priti Wright about their experiences in the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. The three reminisce about their time in the valley climbing the magnificent walls and peaks. Along with specific discussions on objectives and routes, the three also reflect on the relationships they built there and the warmth of the local people. From cultural learnings to volleyball games to movie nights, Steve, Lindsey and Priti discuss how the Charakusa and its people, have left a lifelong impression on the three of them. Listen to a conversation that will leave you yearning to travel to unique and untouched places.Check out Steve's videos on K7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFyivVv-Kh4Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com or visit uphillathlete.com for more information on our offerings.
In a special holiday episode, Alyssa sits down with Uphill Athlete's new registered dietician, Alyssa Leib. The two tackle listener questions about fueling well through the holidays and the unique challenges athletes face. The questions range from how to handle comments about your eating habits to staying on track with training and nutrition during the holidays. RD Alyssa offers advice on adding, not subtracting with your nutrition choices as well as tips on approaching potentially stressful holiday meals. The two wrap with RD Alyssa's words of wisdom including, eating consistently throughout the day, and practicing compassion and flexibility during the holidays. Listen along for great advice to help you through the stress of the holidays.Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com or visit uphillathlete.com to learn more.
In our second episode of Voices of the Mountains, Steve and coach Martin Zhor, speak with one of their athletes, Jon Lawrie, who recently summited K2 without supplemental oxygen. Jon chronicles his experience on the mountain, from the trek to base camp, to the jeep ride back to a warm bed. Steve and Jon relate over the odd experience of life above 8000 meters and a tragedy Jon witnessed on the mountain. The discussion shows a glimpse of the difficulty of this type of climb and the precarious nature of humanity on the ledges of a mountain known for death. This is the first of a two-part episode around Jon's experience training for and ultimately summiting K2 without supplemental oxygen.If you'd like to reach us, email coach@uphillathlete.com or visit uphillathlete.com to learn more about our offerings.
In episode 3 of The High Route Podcast, we bring together two high level practitioners of their respective crafts. Kelly Cordes and Adam Fabrikant.If you are unfamiliar with Cordes and his work, you are about to familiarize yourself with a gem. He's a notable alpinist, mixologist, and even a better writer—which is saying something. If you haven't read his classic book The Tower, please do. It's such a good and in-depth read. Although a fine, very competent skier, Cordes comes to mountain travel as an alpinist first and skier second. Fabrikant is the opposite—he comes to the conversation more as a sharp end ski mountaineer seeking first descents than an alpinist.For this reason, we wanted to bring the two together and learn about their similarities and differences when approaching more cutting objectives in the mountains. Although separated by roughly twenty years, Cordes and Fabrikant share similarities in how they have prioritized their lives around their mountain pursuits and made a go of it. The original intent of the conversation was to explore the idea of risk and risk management in the mountains and how that may evolve. Part of our prompt for the risk side of the discussion was a Will Gadd social media post where he writes about the classic equation Hazard X Probability = Risk. Gadd notes, "Hazard X Probability = Risk is a simple baseline tool for risk management. But get the probability or hazard level wrong and the equation is worse than meaningless because it leads to bad decision making and statements like, 'Driving to the mountains is more dangerous than climbing them.' Bullshit. Climbing the Grand Teton is about 250 times more dangerous per hour of activity than driving to the Grand Teton." There's more in Gadd's post; we encourage you to read and posit it. In the discussion, Cordes and Fabrikant eventually land on risk. But before we get there, we clarify the differences between "sketchy" and "spicy" and the quest and practice of becoming comfortable in high consequence terrain as an alpinist or ski mountaineer. You can find us at the-high-route.com. Yeah, there are two hyphens for redundancy, which is a good policy in the mountains. For weight weenies, hyphens weigh next to nothing.The theme music for The High Route Podcast comes from Storms in the Hill Country and the album The Self Transforming (Thank you, Jens Langsjoen). You can find a link to the album here—there are so many good songs on this album. And if you think you've spotted a UFO in the past or visited the 7th dimension, "Beautiful Alien" is a good tune to start with.
Al Burgess reads wild stories of 1980s alpinism and all that that world entailed - fighting for your life and passing into death.
For Alan Rousseau, the allure of mountaineering is in the unknown. When he looks up at a mountain and contemplates whether it can be climbed, he sees a mystery to be solved. Rousseau is an IFMGA guide who divides his time between pursuing his own goals in the mountains, and helping others do the same. His achievements in the Alaska Range, to which he has ventured more than twenty times, include first ascents of Ruth Gorge Grinder and Aim for the Bushes. In 2020, his first ascent of the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau with Tino Villanueva was recognized as one of the year's greatest climbing achievements and the pair won a Piolets d'Or. Villanueva wrote about the climb in Alpinist 81. In this episode, Alan reflects on more than ten years of climbing in the Alaska Range, and exploratory climbs like Aim For the Bushes that he and his partners established earlier this year. He talks about the difference between planning trips to Alaska and the Himalaya, and the mountains that act as his compass. This episode is brought to you by the American Alpine Club Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Alan Rousseau Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
Caroline Gleich lives on the ridgeline between adventure and activism. Her trips around the globe often transcend summit goals as she merges mountain missions with driving awareness around diversity, equality and inclusion, and environmental justice. In 2019, Caroline summited the tallest mountain in the world—with a fully torn ACL in her knee. Two years earlier, she was the first woman to ski the entirety of Utah's Chuting Gallery. But before she became a professional skier, Gleich thought she wanted to be a pro climber, after getting her start on old school sandbagged trad routes. While she ultimately pursued skiing, Gleich uses her rock and ice climbing skills to further her ski mountaineering goals. On the advocacy side, she organizes marches, protests and rallies to further the causes she believes in, and has traveled to Washington DC to lobby for Protect Our Winters. In this episode of the Alpinist Podcast, Caroline recounts her Everest expedition, challenges stereotypes around body image, and dives into the dark side of her personality and how she plans for a future full of unknowns. This episode is brought to you by the American Alpine Club Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Caroline Gleich Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
At just 17 years old, Nima Rinji has already achieved the unimaginable - climbing some of the world's most challenging peaks, earning him a place in history. He share his remarkable story and discusses his ambitious mission to become the youngest climber to conquer all 14 peaks above 8,000m. He Delves into his strategy, determination, and unwavering passion for mountaineering. He also discusses climbing with the current record holder for the fatsest to climb all 14 peaks above 8,000m Kristin Harila's and on mountain tourism in Nepal.
Our guest today is one of the all-time great alpinists of our time. Colin Haley joins to the show in the wake of an uneventful trip to Alaska, and explains why such missions are part of a healthy approach to pursuing a lifetime of adventure and alpine climbing in the mountains. But first, your hosts return from separate vacations and commiserate over how easy and glamorous it is to climb abroad with kids, while still making space to sneak in some deep-water solos. For our final bit, we present an original composition for Marimba by Jared Kohli entitled Joyous. Show Notes Follow Colin Haley on Instagram Report on Alaska trip Free soloing Fitz Roy ✅ Rate and review us on iTunes with ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ ✅ Force your climbing partner to listen to this show ✅ Blast our entire archive of episodes over the speaker system of the climbing gym where you work ✅ Join us on Patreon by becoming a Rope Gun. For less than the cost of a gallon of diesel, you can save the environment while receiving extra bonus episodes of your favorite climbing podcast.Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com
Today on episode 64 I'm excited to welcome Priti and Jeff Wright, two accomplished young professional alpinists from Seattle, WA. In 2020, Priti, a software developer, and Jeff, a mechanical engineer at Boeing, embarked on a year-long sabbatical to travel across the globe and climb alpine objectives in Patagonia, France, and Pakistan, finishing by the beach in Hawaii.The trip was wildly successful, even amid the raging pandemic, including ascents of the Cerro Torre, the six classic North Faces of the Alps in a single season (including the Eiger North Face in winter), culminating in the first ascent of K6 Central and the third ascent of K6 West—both 7000+-meter peaks—in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan.In contrast to early retirement, Priti and Jeff make the compelling case for a traditional career peppered with sabbaticals. This episode is filled with lifestyle and career philosophy, planning concepts, detailed financial considerations, and just a damn good time. And they are even planning their next sabbatical in 2024, which will look drastically different than their trip in 2020. You won't want to miss this one. Support this project: Buy Me a CoffeeGet the newsletter: SUBSCRIBE ME!Show Notes and Links at Clippingchains.com
On Episode 263 of the Enormocast, I sit down for a long overdue conversation with one of the greatest alpinists of all time, Steve House. Steve house spent 20 years riding the cutting edge of alpinism. His ascents of K7, The Rupal Face, and the Slovak Direct, among many more, represented a sea change in … Continue reading "Enormocast 263: Steve House – The Art of Alpinism"
Babsi Vigl's pursuits in the mountains transcend summit aspirations and self-indulgence. The Austrian alpinist, guide and writer embarked on her first expedition at age 20. Since that time she has experienced many highs and lows, from climbing Cerro Chalten as part of an all-women ascent of the Supercanaleta, to surviving a sudden, life-threatening illness while on a trip in the Alps. The mountains had always been her safe haven—a place where she says she was never afraid. During a long rehabilitation from her illness, she realized that reaching the summit is just one step of the journey, and what's most important to her is making it home to the people she loves. She needed to rediscover balance in her life, and make peace with the mountains, as she wrote about in Alpinist 79. In this conversation, we found Babsi at home in Austria, where she also shared her thoughts on being part of all-female climbing teams and finding parallels between alpinism and playing piano. This episode is brought to you by Rab Equipment Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Babsi Vigl Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Portrait by Andreas Vigl Monte Viso photo by Hannes Mair
In this episode, Steve and Alyssa welcome coach Martin Zhor onto the podcast to discuss tapering and the post-mountain blues. They discuss the dos and don'ts of tapering along with advice on the duration and types of workouts athletes should be focusing on during this time period. They also touch on the effect of travel during a taper period and how to account for altitude and acclimatization. Along with tapering, the three discuss the after period of a big climb and what happens next mentally and physically regardless of the summit success. They offer their own experiences and tips to handle the let down post-trip. Join the three in a comprehensive discussion rounding out the mountaineering training series and helping athletes reach their mountain goals.Thank you to Chase Clark for our Intro/Outro Music and Tim McClain for our sound mixing. Please visit us at uphillathlete.com or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
In this episode of Training for Mountaineering, Steve and Alyssa discuss the last training period before tapering, the climbing specific period. This stage follows the crucial base period, and serves to sharpen the skills a climber needs for a specific goal. Steve and Alyssa tackle how to navigate and plan this period from build up climbing trips, to training at home. They break down how a climber should distribute intensity, volume, recovery and strength throughout the week. They also touch on the importance of mental preparation and the confidence this period brings to a climber before they take off for their goal climbs.Thank you to Chase Clark for the intro/outro and Tim McClain for our sound engineering.Visit us at uphillathlete.com or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
With a geologist father, Nikki Smith's love for rock and the outdoors came naturally. Born in Portland, Oregon, Smith moved with her family to Utah at a young age. She spent her youth wandering the state's vast outdoor spaces, hunting for minerals and fossils. Smith was 16 when she had her first climbing experience at a crag in Ogden. She recalls: “I don't know how we're still alive, but just as soon as I touched that rock, everything went silent and it was just this amazing experience.” Smith started taking photos—and winning awards for them—at a young age. But it took a climbing injury to set her on the path to being a professional. Her style is distinct; her portraiture brims with intimacy and emotion that Smith says is sourced from a deep sense of connection with her subjects. In addition to her work as a photographer, Smith is a professional climber, guide and writer. Nikki is also an advocate for the LGBTQIA+ community, and speaks to the challenges and opportunities facing brands—and climbing media like Alpinist—as they strive to be more inclusive. This episode is brought to you by Rab Equipment Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Nikki Smith Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn