Podcasts about patternmaking

This is Anne's Book Club, a spotlight episode of the Long Thread Podcast where we share conversations about exciting new craft titles. This episode features three new books from Storey Publishing: The Stitched Landscape by Anna Hultin, The Handsewn Wardrobe by Louisa Owen Sonstroem, and Knitting Cowlettes by Safiyyah Talley. You'll hear a conversation with each of the authors, followed by an excerpt of some of my favorite passages. I was excited to choose each of the titles to feature, and I hope you enjoy the conversations and the books as much as I have! The Stitched Landscape: An Embroidery Field Guide to the Textures, Colors, and Lines of the Natural World Anna Hultin has so much to teach you—to stitch, of course, but mostly to see. With a background in art education and a habit of looking closely at the land around her, Anna offers concrete skills as well as encouraging prompts to develop your own relationship with where you are. Her book includes step-by-step projects, detailed instructions for common plants, and techniques for sketching, stitching, and painting your own personal landscape. Her book gently pushes embroiderers who might be reluctant to consider their work as art toward creativity, exploration, adaptation, and staking their own ground, all within the frame of an embroidery hoop. From Anna's introduction to The Stitched Landscape (https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/anna-hultin/the-stitched-landscape/9781635868456/?lens=storey?lens=storey-publishing-llc&utm_source=LongThreadMedia&utm_medium=Digital&utm_campaign=AnnaHultin_TheStitchedLandscape_Pub_RetailClicks_Storey_9781635868456&utm_content=CRAFTSHOBBIES&utm_term=Interests_Podcast_craft_GenPop): This isn't your typical embroidery book. Although it has plenty of embroidery patterns for you to follow, more than anything this book offers in-depth practice of the artistic process—from the spark of inspiration to a final piece and everything in between. I hope you will learn as much about observing the land as you do about embroidery. Whether you are picking up a needle and thread for the first time or have experience as a fiber artist, and wherever you are in the seasons of your life, my aim is to inspire you to grow in your creative practice. The projects are meant to build your skills and offer opportunities for discovery as you develop your own style and point of view. I'm excited to see how you'll take what you learn in these pages and apply it to your own observations of the world around you. **Anna Hultin* is the artist and educator behind Olander CO Embroidery. She uses needle and thread to create contemporary embroideries that explore the often overlooked beauty of the subtle textures and colors of the Colorado landscape. Anna lives with her family in Loveland, Colorado.* The Handsewn Wardrobe: A Complete Guide to Making Your Own Clothes from Patternmaking to the Finishing Stitches To make clothes that you love, says Louisa Owen Sonstroem, pick up a pencil and paper, needle and thread, and get stitching. Trained in commercial patternmaking, she knows the strengths—and limitations—of off-the-rack clothing and pattern-envelope sewing. Her new book teaches sewists to handsew clothes that seem out of reach for today's makers: hoodies, leggings, and even a denim jacket. If that sounds too time-consuming, skill-demanding, or slow, Louisa's book will surprise you. The book invites you to set aside clothing designed for someone else's body and create garments that will fit you perfectly. She calls The Handsewn Wardrobe “two books in one”: a primer on patternmaking that frees you from generic commercial patterns and a sewing book that teaches techniques for stitching garments by hand. In over 300 pages of instruction, she takes you from making a pattern for a basic tee to drafting a custom pair of jeans. For weavers and crafters with precious fabrics, handsewing lets you make the best use of precious fabric, not only by minimizing waste but also by creating garments you will wear proudly. From The Handsewn Wardrobe: (https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/louisa-owen-sonstroem/the-handsewn-wardrobe/9781635866261/?lens=storey?lens=storey-publishing-llc&utm_source=LongThreadMedia&utm_medium=Digital&utm_campaign=LouisaOwenSonstroem_TheHandsewnWardrobe_Pub_RetailClicks_Storey_9781635866261&utm_content=CRAFTSHOBBIES&utm_term=Interests_Podcast_craft_GenPop) Learning how to make patterns is one of the coolest, most transformative experiences. You can make anything! Patternmaking may have a bit of a reputation as an intimidating, difficult discipline, but it needn't be that way. There are so many more possibilities than limitations in this craft. And, by the way, no one knows everything about patternmaking—no one!—so just relax and enjoy yourself. Make note of the principles shared in this book and elsewhere, but lean into the gray areas and creative opportunities, too. You'll learn just as much by messing around with patterns as by following anyone's instructions. The more you try, the more you'll learn. It's a radical, simple act to make your own clothes by hand. The tools are few, and most are relatively inexpensive. The techniques needn't be complicated, either—with a handful of good stitches at your command, you'll be able to construct all manner of beautiful, sturdy garments. And if you approach your projects with a willingness to experiment, you'll never stop learning. Empowerment, accessibility, mental stimulation, endless opportunities for growth, and a set of amazing clothes—what's not to love? **Louisa Owen Sonstroem* studied design and patternmaking at Fashion Institute of Technology. She works in technical design and patternmaking and teaches hand sewing and patternmaking classes. She also started Patternmaking in Public Places (PIPP), an outreach project to democratize access to patternmaking skills. Louisa lives in Connecticut with her family, in a house filled with board books, dog beds, and lots of fabric.* Knitting Cowlettes: Clever Techniques for Making Custom Mini-Cowls to Elevate Any Outfit Innovative knitter Safiyyah Talley's first book, Knit 2 Socks in 1, offered a clever new way of knitting socks. In her new book, she offers a fresh look at neckwear with a collection of cowlettes—wearable cowl/shawl hybrids. In addition to 23 patterns, the book includes methods for designing your own cowlette, finessing fit, and yarn selection. Besides the range of lovely designs, the joy of this book is the expansive view of knitting, offering patterns for any skill level and personal style. Simple and versatile, Safiyyah's cowlettes beckon you to cast on. From Safiyyah's introduction to Knitting Cowlettes: (https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/safiyyah-talley/knitting-cowlettes/9781635868012/?lens=storey?lens=storey-publishing-llc&utm_source=LongThreadMedia&utm_medium=Digital&utm_campaign=SafiyyahTalley_KnittingCowlettes_Pub_RetailClicks_Storey_9781635868012&utm_content=CRAFTSHOBBIES&utm_term=Interests_Podcast_craft_GenPop) I like to gift cowlettes because they are quick, gender neutral, size inclusive, and very useful. There are just so many scenarios that call for one that I even gift them to myself. Wake up to a chill in the air? Pop on a cowlette. Want to dress up an outfit? Pop on a cowlette. Need to show off a knitted item at the knitting convention, and it's a very hot and crowded July day? Say it with me now: “Pop on a cowlette!” You might be wondering, “What exactly is a cowlette?” Cowlette is a term created by innovative knitwear designer Carina Spencer and it is the lovechild of a cowl—a circular scarf—and a shawlette, or a small shawl. Cowlettes have a similar construction to a shawl, but with the wearability of a cowl. Shawls tend to slip and slide when worn, unless secured in some way with a knot or a shawl pin. Cowlettes look like shawls, but they are knit in the round, so the wearer doesn't have to worry about them falling off. Just like shawls, cowlettes are first worked flat from the top down. Stitches are added in the form of increases until the work is large enough to fit comfortably around the wearer's neck. The cowlette is then joined in the round and worked to the desired size and length. When searching online for cowlette patterns, you may find them under “cowls” or “shawls,” because it is a fairly new knitting term. But the very best part of making cowlettes is how customizable they are. With the help of this book, you can easily design your own. You can control the difficulty, size, yarn amount, and gauge with very little prep and only as much math as you wish! It is the perfect project for all knitters, from beginner to expert. All you need to get started is a ball of yarn, circular knitting needles, and a sense of adventure. **Safiyyah Talley* is the author of* Knit 2 Socks in 1 and creator of the popular blog The Drunk Knitter. She teaches knitting classes virtually and at knitting shows. Safiyyah lives in Indiana. This episode is brought to you by: Storey (https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/landing-page/storey-craft-books-for-creative-living/) publishes craft books for makers of all skill levels, whether you're interested in hand sewing your own clothes, embroidering outdoors, or a knitting fun new accessory. Check out our new books in knitting, crochet, weaving, quilting, sewing, soap-making, design, and more!

Our guest today is Thadine Wormly, quilter, artist, proud mother of 4! Originally from Brooklyn, she moved to Flushing Queens in the 1970's. As a young girl she loved making doll clothes…and learning from her mother how to crochet and knit. Following a move to Miami, FL Thadine took Home Ec in Junior High which allowed her to continue her love of working with fabric. A graduate of the Barbizon Modeling School, she modeled in numerous shows  often designing and  making her outfits. While working in the fur market in New York City for 16 years, she learned and became adept at patternmaking for fur, leather and cloth. During all of this, she always had an interest in quilts. Through a chance meeting at The Women of Color exhibit…she became hooked and has since found great joy in sourcing just the right fabric for each project. Thadine is a member of numerous quilt guilds and the founder of a few as well. Most importantly…she is a proud mom of four amazing children(2:00) Who taught Thadine to sew? She shares stories of her childhood and how her sewing adventures began.(3:30) After her parents divorced, Thadine was sent to Miami – she was 12 years old. Her Junior High Home Economics class what an important anchor for her in this tumultuous time. Hear this story.(6:05) Thadine attended the Barbizon Modeling school. She tells us about the school, their curriculum and how it affected her life. (7:30) What were her memorable experiences while at Barbizon?(8:45) During a special fashion show she met Muhammad Ali, George Frazier and the Staples Singers.(9:23) Thadine spent 16 years working in the New York fur market. How did this begin for her and what was it like? Then, she goes on to share more of her story and how she got involved in sewing guilds and how quilting became such a large part of her life.(10:42) Quilting has taken Thadine on travels all over the world. What were some of her favorite places to visit and what are a few of her favorite stories about these adventures?(31:40) Let's learn more about Thadine as she talks about being ordained an Evangelist and how her faith influences her work.(38:26) What's Thadine working on now?(38:50) Where can you find Thadine's work?(39:45) What's next for Thadine and what's her dream?(40:27) What didn't we ask that Thadine wants to talk about? Well, she talks about the Gees Bend Quilters and her experiences working with them…and arranged marriages in Tangiers.(44:26) You can reach out to Thadine on Instagram @thadinewormly Be sure to subscribe to, review and rate this podcast on your favorite platform…and visit our website sewandsopodcast.com for more information about today's and all of our Guests.

You could have heard this episode early and had access to giveaways on our HeroHero!This week, Sol and Michael sit down with Bryan Jimenèz, a New York based designer whose sampling, patterning, and referencing make him one of the most exciting young designers in the city. The trio talk about Bryan's inspirations, some of the challenges of scaling a brand, boxing, the other creatives he lives and works with, creating clothes that feel authentically lived-in while still being new, attending and selling at Paris Fashion Week, being stocked at SSENSE, and so much more!We hope you enjoy - we had a wonderful time recording.SolSol Thompson and Michael Smith explore the world and subcultures of fashion, interviewing creators, personalities, and industry insiders to highlight the new vanguard of the fashion world. Subscribe for weekly uploads of the podcast, and don't forgot to follow us on our social channels for additional content, and join our discord to access what we've dubbed “the happiest place in fashion”.Message us with Business Inquiries at pairofkingspod@gmail.comSubscribe to get early access to podcasts and videos, and participate in exclusive giveaways for $4 a month Links: Instagram TikTok Twitter/X Sol's Substack (One Size Fits All) Sol's Instagram Michael's Instagram Michael's TikTok

 Last week on the podcast, we learned how a Seamwork pattern is made, from design to the final photo shoot. Today, we have some common fitting myths to dispel. Robin, our professional patternmaker, is a special guest on this episode. Robin's been patternmaking with us at Seamwork for more than 7 years. Prior to that, she worked in the ready-to-wear apparel industry as a pattern maker with companies like Patagonia, Ugg, and Hanna Anderson. And today, she's here to bust 5 common fitting myths.

Sharing some new and old concepts for Zero-Waste patternmaking ideas, and a few of my favorite book recommendations for learning more! Want to see some visuals for this episode? Check out the YouTube version.  Soft Work CourseCut My Cote - Dorothy K BurnhamZero Waste Patterns - Birgitta HelmerssonMore on Luddites (machine breakers)

Listen to a recording of the patternmaker panel with 6 amazingly talented patternmakers here in Portland, moderated by Sarai. They chat about all the secrets your patternmaker wants you to know, the differences between ready-to-wear and sewing, and their favorite parts about making patterns.

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Larissa's Brand https://www.entrechatdance.com/ https://www.instagram.com/entrechatdance/   The Squad https://www.thesquadnation.com/ https://www.instagram.com/thesquad_nation/ https://www.linkedin.com/company/the-squad-creative-consulting-group/ https://www.facebook.com/sqdnation   Hanky Panky https://www.hankypanky.com/ Bibliography   Design, Sewing, & Construction:   Armillas, Alexandra. “Sewing Techniques to Create Luxurious Couture Lingerie,” ThreadsMagazine.com, Retrieved from: https://www. threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/20/create-couture-lingerie-2 Accessed January 14, 2023   Betzina, Sandra. “Sewing Lycra Blends,” ThreadsMagazine.com, Retrieved from: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/sewing-with-knits/sewing-lycra-blends Accessed August 26, 2022   Busque, Pamela. “Elastic Fact File” Threads Magazine, October/ November 2004, 51. Cloake, Dawn. Lingerie Design on the Stand. London, B.T. Batsford, 2000   Cole, Julie (Julie Christine). Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics. New York: Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc., 2016.   Collins Brealey, Julie. Making Corsets. Marlborough, The Crowood Press, 2021.   The Editors of Cy DeCosse Incorporated. Singer Sewing Reference Library: Sewing Lingerie. Minnetonka, Cy DeCosse Incorporated, 1991.   Czachor, Sharon. Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics. New York, NY: Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing, Inc., 2016.   Haggar, Ann. Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear, Second Edition. Oxford, Blackwell Publishing, 2004   Gibb, Helen. Ribbonwork: The Complete Guide. Iola, Krause Publications, 2004.   Joseph-Armstrong, Helen. Draping for Apparel Design. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2000.

In episode 58, master clothing craftsman Keti McKenna tells the story of her fashion career from recently-immigrated geophysicist in NYC in the 1990s, to seamstress, to patternmaker at designer brands, and finally founder of her own high-end suiting brand Ketivani. Keti's original career was as a geophysicist, but she always had a love of fashion and sewing since she was a little girl growing up in Tbilisi, Georgia. She immigrated to New York City in the early 90's and soon began selling her designs to local boutiques in the Forest Hills neighborhood of the city. At the same time, she completed her Patternmaking degree at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology. She worked as a patternmaker, fit model, designer and technical design manager for a wide range of companies including Federated, Tommy Hilfiger, Anne Klein, Tahari, Adrianna Papell and Joe Fresh. She frequently traveled to overseas factories to train representatives in craftsmanship and garment construction, as well as to troubleshoot production problems. She moved to Denver, Colorado with her husband in summer of 2015 for a change of pace and to enjoy what Colorado has to offer. In Denver, she established her own business: Ketivani. She designs and produces upscale clothing for specialty stores and offers classes in sketching, draping and patternmaking at Denver Design Incubator (DDI). Keti is considered one of the industry's unique talents. Not only can she draw beautiful and sophisticated fashion sketches, but she also brings a wealth of technical construction knowledge and industry expertise to transform such illustrations to finished products. In this episode, you'll learn: How Keti got her first job in the industry in NYC in the early 1990s Why Keti decided to get a patternmaking degree at FIT Why many designer fashion brands thought hand-drafted paper patterns were better quality than digital patterns for many years The importance of a good patternmaker Why designers sometimes have to approve less-than-perfect fit or quality What to look for in a high-quality suit Why Keti intentionally keeps her brand small The challenges of making high-end products as a small brand How Keti got the opportunity to show her work and process as part of an exhibit at the Denver Art Museum and what that did for her business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Ketivani website Keti's email Ketivani Instagram Ketivani Facebook Keti's LinkedIn Denver Design Incubator

In episode 55, Laura Fisher of Revivall Clothing encourages us to slow down and get in touch with our values, our clothes, and the land around us. She shares the windy path (including a degree in Animal Science) that led her to start Revivall in 2009 and how she's built the brand to “revive all […]

Angela Wolf specializes in fashion sewing and is the host of the PBS show "It's Sew Easy" and "Behind the Seams" on YouTube and Facebook. She's the founder of Angela Wolf Patterns and Angela Wolf Academy. Learn about her journey into fashion design and how she keeps things fresh for her students in a variety of mediums. Find Angela: FACEBOOK @AngelaWolfCouture TWITTER @Angela_Wolf INSTAGRAM @AngelaWolfFashion PINTEREST @AngelaWolfPins YOUTUBE @aboapparel BLOG www.FashionSewingwithAngelaWolf.com

In episode 51, Miranda Sam walks us through her decision to discover a new side of fashion by learning industrial sewing before starting her fashion brand made specifically for short women –  Shortlisted. Discover how the experience is changing the way she views fashion!  “When we talk about body inclusivity these days, we're most likely […]

Join me for this special episode 50 as I chat with three of my fellow patternmaker and product developer friends about how you can develop fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values. We share our best industry tips and expert advice on making clothes that really fit – and building best practices for your […]

In episode 47, Morgan Shapero shares how after over 20 years working as a designer in NYC, she relaunched her own brand Shapero in 2021 – and how that experience provides both freedom to design and do business her own way as well as new skills that help her in her day job. Morgan Shapero […]

In episode 46, Sharae Averhart, the designer and business owner behind the plus-size petite fashion brand MoraRae, shares the role fashion has played in her life and career and how through all her experience, she has learned to approach fashion design with compassion, empathy, and problem solving. Hi! I’m Sharae, the owner and designer behind […]

Being able to look at a garment and figure out where it is going wrong is a learned skill but listen in for 3 key areas I look to first when trying to figure out why my sample doesn't look the way I thought it would. For all the shownotes, including any links to resources mentioned, head over to www.belindahumphrey.com. You can also download the new FREE Map your Supply Chain  here, or connect with Belinda on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/belindahumphrey_ or LinkedIn https://www.linkedin.com/in/belinda-humphrey-99749043/ TOPICS: Design, Patternmaking, Proportions, Fabric  Disclaimer: Whilst every effort is made to ensure that information is accurate at the time of recording, much like the fashion industry itself, this information may change.   

In this special solo episode, I (Alison Hoenes) share five things I’ve learned about running a fashion business on the 5th anniversary of Alison Hoenes Design. I'm celebrating AHD’s 5th birthday the whole month of June with some exciting updates, new products, and more to help you get your designs to production with confidence and […]

In episode 43, Olivia Mason of Olly Designs talks about how her background as a ballerina and her love of fashion combine to create functional yet beautiful fashion that does it all. Olivia has a degree in Ballet, Minor in business, and an associates degree in Fashion design. All of these things have led her […]

I became the “girl who could sew” at a young age. I started sewing at the age of nine with a needle and thread and by age 12, I had taught myself how to use a sewing machine. All throughout high school and into college, I made many of my outfits and wore them with pride. It was no surprise when my love of making clothing lead me across the country to the fashion capital of the world – New York City. I attended and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology with a degree in Patternmaking. The beauty of this program was that instead of simply being someone who designed and made clothing, I would also become a “Clothing Engineer” with a keen understanding of garment construction. Shortly after graduating from FIT, I was hired as a Technical Designer for the Michael Kors label. This position was what really developed me to have an expert eye for solving fit issues as well as understanding the quality of a garment's construction. I also had the privilege of working with amazing Tailors and Seamstresses who practically took me under their wing to teach me their techniques. I felt beyond blessed because this "hands on" experience was something that couldn't be taught in school but I instead learned it directly from the "best of the best" in the fashion industry. I started sewing more and more for other people that it became a part-time gig for me. I made a wide range of garments, but quickly grew to love bridal and evening-wear the most because of how it transformed my clients and allowed them to see a more glamorous version of themselves. Over the years, I have altered hundreds of dresses and customized many formal looks. This is the work that fuels me. It takes skill and heart and keeps me connected to the drive I've had since I was a little girl. Every project, every client, and each of their special moments welcomes me into a story that is bigger than my own. It is truly a blessing to be able to do what I love for a living, as well as share that love with the clients that I am so fortunate to work with. My goal is to make each and every one of them feel special, look beautiful, and know that when they work with me - they are in good hands. Follow her for more information: Website: https://ninacherie.com/ Instagram.com/byninacherie Facebook.com/Ninacheriecouture --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/tlpedu/message Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/tlpedu/support

In episode 32, Elizabeth Frenchman shares what worked and what didn’t about starting a sleepwear brand in her home town of NYC after retiring from a career in graphic design. Elizabeth Frenchman is an apparel designer who adheres to the “less is more” philosophy as well as G-d being in the details. She was born […]

It's Episode 16 of CYT, and the second that features my conversation with Louisa Owen Sonstroem. Last week we heard about how Louisa embraced and became an expert in hand sewing clothing. This week we talk about a different, but equally fascinating topic: a project Louisa started in 2019 called Patternmaking in Public Places. PIPP aims to democratise access to patternmaking, by bringing it out from behind closed doors and sharing it with the public. Louisa tells us about the two very different incarnations this project has had so far. Want to know what happened when she undertook live demonstrations in front of unsuspecting members of the public in the parks of NY? Plus, we learn how she ingeniously pivoted, as well as expanded, the project in the wake of Covid. Much of Louisa's PIPP project can be enjoyed by all for free via Youtube, and this conversation provides some enthralling background. Support the podcast over on Patreon! Find out all about Patternmaking in Public Places HERE. View all of the recorded demos with different patternmakers on YouTube HERE, Louisa made a zine to commemorate and celebrate the project. You can buy a copy HERE.

In episode 22, I talk with Elizabeth Williams – founder, designer, and patternmaker behind the outerwear brand Coat Check Chicago. Elizabeth shares her journey from costume seamstress to New York fashion designer, to fashion professor and how the skills she gained through all these experiences now help her run her own brand. Elizabeth Williams resides […]

Please click subscribe and tap the bell to be notified for future episodes! Kansas City Fashion Designer Sits Down with Seraphine |  Seraphiend Season 2 Episode 2 Seraphine sits down with Kansas City-based fashion designer, Nataliya Meyer. Nataliya is the brains behind bespoke design studio, Lucia Sarto. Always finding the positive in life, Nataliya talks coming from the Ukraine and how in the US we have an opportunity to have a voice. She goes back to the beginning of her fashion career, her schooling, and what she’s learned along the way.  

Elisalex started her career as a shoe designer and ran her own very successful brand for 4 years before moving into pattern designing and the sewing world. Working in fashion runs in her family and we love the idea of moving between the fashion industry and the home sewing industry and seeing the two worlds come together. Join us as we talk about everything from starting your own brand straight out of college, to lessons learnt, working with fashion revolution, sustainable fashion, starting another business and being a working mum.Our favourite message from this interview? Be kind to yourself.

Und hier ist wieder eine neue Folge: Gestrickt habe ich: Beerentorte: erster Socken fast fertig Hearthstone Pullover: vierter Versuch oder so Gehäkelt habe ich: Dahlia CAL: fertig Erwähnt wurde: meine Patreon-Seite Mayim Bialiks Video „Losing My Voice“ (Ich habe ihren Namen total falsch im Kopf gehabt, sorry.) Cal Patch: „Design-it-yourself clothes: Patternmaking simplified“ The Vivienne Files […]

Lisa Ruble joins us to talk about her experience in publishing, her work with Paintbrush Studio, and her quilting life!

Lisa Ruble joins us to talk about her experience in publishing, her work with Paintbrush Studio, and her quilting life!

Suzy Furrer of Apparel Arts joins us to chat about patternmaking. From creating a moulage through to drafting patterns, Suzy has so much knowledge to share. We also talk about building her design school and literally writing the book on patternmaking!

Where do jelly babies come from?Mass-produced things are all around us. But they all start with a single object. In this episode, Olivia goes looking for the patternmakers, whose invisible hands are the original creators of much of the stuff we use every day. They see a world no-one else can see. So why are they disappearing? And what will we lose when they are gone?Producer: Olivia RosenmanCollaborating historian: Jesse Adams SteinHost: Tamson PietschExecutive Producer: Tom Allinson

Download this episode here! In this episode of the Style Blues Podcast, I talk a bit about the history of sewing, the beginning of the big pattern companies and how we got to where we are today. It wasn't that long ago that everyone sewed. Over the last 30 years things have changed, here's what happened. Show Notes: The History of Sewing Let’s learn a bit about the history of sewing, how did we get where we are today? Abbreviated History of Sewing as per Wikipedia:   The Industrial Revolution shifted the production of textiles from the household to the mills. In the early decades of the Industrial Revolution, the machinery produced whole cloth. The world's first sewing machine was patented in 1790 by Thomas Saint. By the early 1840s, other early sewing machines began to appear. By the 1850s, Isaac Singer developed the first sewing machines that could operate quickly and accurately and surpass the productivity of a seamstress or tailor sewing by hand.While much clothing was still produced at home by female members of the family, more and more ready-made clothes for the middle classes were being produced with sewing machines. Textile sweatshops full of poorly paid sewing machine operators grew into entire business districts in large cities like London and New York City. To further support the industry, piece work was done for little money by women living in slums. Needlework was one of the few occupations considered acceptable for women, but it did not pay a living wage. Women doing piece work from home often worked 14-hour days to earn enough to support themselves, sometimes by renting sewing machines that they could not afford to buy. Fine quality Tailors became associated with higher-end clothing during this period. In London, this status grew out of the dandy trend of the early 19th century, when new tailor shops were established around Savile Row. These shops acquired a reputation for sewing high-quality handmade clothing tailored to one’s particular fit needs. Sewing underwent further developments during the 20th century. As sewing machines became more affordable to the working class, demand for sewing patterns grew. Women had become accustomed to seeing the latest fashions in periodicals during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, increasing demand for sewing patterns even more. American tailor and manufacturer Ebenezer Butterick met the demand with paper patterns that could be traced and used by home sewers. The patterns, sold in small packets, became wildly popular. Several pattern companies soon established themselves. Women's magazines also carried sewing patterns, and continued to do so for much of the 20th century. This practice declined during the later decades of the 20th century, when ready-made clothing became a necessity as women joined the paid workforce in larger numbers, leaving them with less time to sew, if indeed they had an interest. One of my friends who is a bit older than I am was telling me that when she was in high school everyone made their own clothes. This was probably in the 1960’s. When I was in middle school in the 1970’s, I was the only kid who made her own clothes. Many of us learned to sew from our mothers but many of us have not had the opportunity to learn from anyone. You can learn to sew and I can help you succeed! Growing up, I️ always wondered how home sewing was so different from commercial sewing. You would think they are the same but they aren’t. Mass produced garments are sewn by the thousand and use piece work technology to put them together. Garments are completely sewn in minutes, not hours. Commercial sewing patterns have been the same since the 1950s when clothing was produced on a much smaller scale, but the home sewing industry largely hasn't changed since then. Today we have downloadable pdf patterns and many independent designers that are changing the home sewing industry. Sew Along with Me! Sew Along Masterclass 2018, going on now on the Chambray Blues Facebook page. 12 projects using easy commercial patterns, one each month Video Tutorials, FB live sessions, plus question and answer Closed group, only open for a limited time Access to professional designer Help choosing fabrics, notions, cutting, altering and sewing Join the fun! Don't forget to Pin this post!

How to manipulate darts This tutorial will show you how to move a dart along the bodice with a slash and spread method and pivoting method. I will also show you how to remove the back shoulder dart.

How to manipulate darts This tutorial will show you how to move a dart along the bodice with a slash and spread method and pivoting method. I will also show you how to remove the back shoulder dart.

How to Transfer your marking from Part 1 onto paper This tutorial explains how to transfer your marking, from Part 1, to create your block.

How to Transfer your marking from Part 1 onto paper This tutorial explains how to transfer your marking, from Part 1, to create your block.

How to drape the front and back bodice This tutorial explains how to drape the front and back bodice on your dress form.

How to drape the front and back bodice This tutorial explains how to drape the front and back bodice on your dress form.

Actor-network-theory (or ANT) posits that the world is made up of forces, given physical form–it’s actually more complicated than it sounds. I gave a brief and inadequate explanation of how this theory applies to creative writing. (All brief explanations of actor-network-theory are misleading.) A better explanation of the particular point in ANT that I referenced is given in “Unscrewing the Big Leviathan,” a paper by ANT theorists Michel Callon and Bruno Latour. If you want to learn more about ANT, you can visit the Actor Network Resource. Tales for the Perfect Child is by Florence Parry Heide, with illustrations by Victoria Chess. Right now it is on sale on Amazon for a dollar or so. It is definitely worth the shipping costs, as it is a very light little book. Charmed Life is by Diana Wynne Jones, one of my favorite authors. She is no relation of Tim Wynne-Jones. You can buy fitting shell patterns from the major pattern makers, such as Vogue (the last two patterns on the page). Each fitting shell is customized for that company’s patterns. You may need to make other shells to give yourself baselines for working from patterns published by other companies, because their sizes may be different. Threads magazine has a library of excellent sewing tips and instructions; here is an article on fitting shells, also known as slopers. Here is another that briefly describes ease, and another really helpful one on evaluating the quality of a given pattern. It is about sewing, but has good ideas for a knitter to think about. Want to know how to measure yourself accurately? You may need a friend to help get the hard-to-reach measurements. This Threads article shows you how. Find out about darts! The VogueKnitting article on fitting is by Lily M. Chin, and came out in the Spring/Summer 2008 issue, on page 40. Also see Lily Chin’s Couture Crochet Workshop: Mastering Fit, Fashion, and Finesse. Adele P. Margolis wrote Make Your Own Patterns: A Primer in Patternmaking for Those Who Like to Sew. What is a gusset? Gibbs’ wrestling move is actually a martial arts move (silly me) known as a C-step. An “Ender complex,” as I have named it, is the tendency to hit back at an aggressor as hard and as long as it takes to destroy that aggressor, so that he/she/it will not dare or be able to attack again. I named this complex after Ender Wiggins, the protagonist of the Ender series by Orson Scott Card. (Hi, Kris and family, if you’re listening.) Rat aggression can be caused by many things, including an oversupply of testosterone. Note that not all male rats or even dominant male rats are aggressive toward humans. Most of them are very sweet, very bad boys. My McGee is totally dominant, must supervise everything and eat all the good stuff first, and he is a total cuddlebunny to my husband and me. A very active, toothy cuddlebunny. He pinches and pulls the other boys’ loose skin with his teeth all the freakin’ time, but he doesn’t pinch us. The most straightforward thing to do is get the aggressive boys neutered, since mine hate being separated, even when they are in a turf war. (This is so codependent of them.) I don’t know what to do for girls. Finding an appropriate vet to do the job can be tricky because rats have different physiology “down there” than dogs, cats, and rabbits, and if the surgery is not performed correctly, your rat can leak bad stuff and get infected and suffer a lot and then die. So do your best to find a good vet. The music in this podcast is included by permission. “Jim the Toothbrush” is from Eric Strom’s Daily Song archive. The lyrics are by thscientist1 — whoever that is. Kate McDowell wrote and performed “The Princess’s Promise.” You can find more of her work at http://www.katemcdowell.com/ The Vital Might wrote and performed “The Truth.” Find more of their work at http://www.thevitalmight.com/music/