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Mackie failed a pretty key stealth check so now it's time to square off with a bunch of big babies. Pros: They're just birds and birds aren't real. Cons: They're the size of tall dudes and Mama Bird is on the way. Good thing Mackie's faux pa is the only big failure we'll have to deal with this combat /cringe emoji If you enjoy the mildly unhinged antics of Stardaddy and his band of merry madpersons, be sure to click subscribe on your favorite podcast platform. New episodes hit the feed at midnight Tennessee time every Wednesday. Want even more from Team Meatbag? Check us out online at www.astronomicapodcast.com.  Here you'll find links to all of our social media plus an open invite to our Discord server. Questions, comments, or details on how exactly Connect works? Email them to astronomicapodcast@gmail.com and we'll definitely get back to you sometime this month. And finally, if you just absolutely love us and wish to provide support in a monetary manner, you can find us at patreon.com/AstronomicaPodcast. Not only will you enjoy the warm fuzzy feeling of helping us foot production costs, you'll also find a number of fantastic extra perks plus get bragging rights with all your nerdiest friends. Thanks as always for listening and we'll see ya next week! We've got a big announcement! Join us on our Patreon to gain access to a bonus monthly game using the Vaesen system Support the show

Pickle juice and whiskey shots, also known as picklebacks, are a type of shot wherein a shot of liquor is chased by a shot of pickle brine. The pickle brine is said to neutralize both the taste of the liquor and the burn of the alcohol. Picklebacks are said to have originated in Canada in the early 2000s, and they quickly gained popularity in the United States. They are now a popular shot in bars and restaurants across the country. The taste of a pickleback is a matter of personal preference. Some people find the combination of the salty, briny pickle juice and the smooth, smoky whiskey to be quite refreshing. Others find the taste to be too intense or off-putting. There is no scientific evidence to support the claim that picklebacks help to neutralize the effects of alcohol. However, some people believe that the pickle juice helps to settle the stomach and prevent nausea. Whether or not you enjoy picklebacks is a matter of personal taste. If you are curious about trying them, I recommend asking your bartender to make you one. You may be surprised at how much you enjoy them. Here are some of the pros and cons of pickle juice and whiskey shots: Pros: They can help to neutralize the taste of alcohol. They can help to settle the stomach and prevent nausea. They can be a refreshing change of pace from traditional shots. Cons: They can be too salty or briny for some people. They may not be as effective at neutralizing the effects of alcohol as some people believe. They can be a bit of an acquired taste. Ultimately, whether or not you enjoy pickle juice and whiskey shots is a matter of personal preference. If you are curious about trying them, I recommend asking your bartender to make you one. You may be surprised at how much you enjoy them.

Should you take money from a corporate venture arm? Here are some quick Pros and Cons of doing so:Pros: They can be very strategic in making industry connections (especially with other companies they have invested in They can often become a customer themselves Bring technical expertise and resources unavailable to early-stage venture companies Cons: Often have conflicting mandates, invest for return and invest in finding acquisitions Due to incentives many of the partners at CVC's leave (which is your internal champion) At times there are inferior terms (exclusivity on acquisitions, Right of first refusal, and in the worst case invest to stamp out competition). While they could become customers, CVCs are often on an island and don't speak for the company in becoming a customer

Welcome back and we are grinding out the basics here still. A lot of foundational info to get through but it's important to really understand what the capabilities are here in order to know what's possible. I won't spend too much time here (hopefully) as my main goal is just the basic understanding of the Linkedin ad formats you can work with. Single Image Ad This is probably the most used type of Linkedin ad - You get to choose an image, intro text, and a headline for the ad which then appears in the prospect home feed. Great for almost any use and can be used in 100 different ways. These are the most common ads that you tend to see in your feed. A small tip here - Linkedin paid ads will always show “sponsored” underneath the company name when it's a paid ad in your feed. LinkedIn Carousel Ad These are the ads that have multiple images that you can scroll through from left to right. You can use them to show off different product offerings or could be more like a storyboard or even just bullet points. They don't tend to get the best cost per click but can be great for exposure and retargeting. Linkedin Video ad-Pretty simple - this is the ad type you'd select if you are going to run a Linkedin video ad. You can use this with different objectives (not just video view objectives). A common one I see is using a short webinar video with a conversion or website visit objective. Linkedin Text AdThese ones are pretty cool. They currently show up above the main LinkedIn feed or over to the right of the feed and only give you a very limited space to get a message across to prospects. Pros: They get a pretty good cost per click and a high number of impressions because they are currently underused by most. Cons: They can't accumulate likes/comments so no social proof is possible long term and the space is really limited of what you can write. I'd recommend using these in the retargeting layer for most campaigns. Linkedin Spotlight ad Spotlight ads show up on the right side of the feed and show in a box format with the prospect's profile image next to the ad in order to get their attention. You get super limited space for text here but they can be great to grab attention and also will show off your company logo as well. 

The term side hustle can mean different things to different people, and even different things at different points in your life. So today, we are going to dig into all of those different definitions and in what situation you might use to decide which side hustle is for you.   What is a side hustle?  In some cases it might be just anything you do that brings in extra money. In my mind, I have always thought of a side hustle as something that is more within your own control. So a business that you run or a side gig that you are in complete control of. There are different types of side hustles and different situations might make you more interested in a certain type.  People Who Need Money Now You can’t wait, you’re behind on your bills, and you just need money now. A side hustle would be something along the lines of driving for Uber, delivering for Instacart, or something along those lines. You could even get a second job. You would have a second employer and you would get paid through a regular paycheck system.  Pros You get money pretty quickly It tends to be low stress (or at least lower stress than teaching) Some flexibility (especially with Uber or Instacart) because you are setting your own hours. Your boss will usually be pretty flexible and allow you to work around your family and primary job as well  Cons Very unlikely you will ever replace your teaching salary or get to your long time goals by doing one of these side hustles They are a bandaid, or temporary fix to an immediate problem They tend to have lower pay They are pretty unsustainable because if you are working 60 hours a week as a teacher (which is what they say the average is) and you are trying to work a second job on top of that, you will hit a wall.  This is not something I would suggest if your strategy is something long term. If you are looking to create something that will help you retire early, but it is something that is available to you if you need money now.  You don’t need money right this second It’s a more pressing matter than a long term play. You need it pretty soon. In this case, you are looking at something like Outschool or VIPKid as really good options. They’re not instant money, you have to be approved to teach for them. You have to have classes approved for them. It is a process so it usually takes a couple months. You also have to build up a following of people who actually take your classes, which takes a little bit longer as well.  Pros They are very flexible You set your own hours Your earnings are dependent on you- how many classes you offer and what you charge for them They’re designed for teachers. If you are going to teach for Outschool, and you are already a teacher, you have a leg up on the platform. You have totally got this!  Cons Your earnings are capped. You can only teach so many classes. And while you do set your own rates, there is a normative center for what people charge on Outschool, and if you go much over that, people aren’t going to take your classes no matter how good you are.  You are still trading time for money. Even though it is flexible and you have freedom, you are still at the mercy of someone else to create income for you. That’s not to say you’re not always, because you eventually have to sell something. But when it comes to these side hustles, if you are not physically present in your class, or don’t physically create the work for a flex class, then you are not going to make any money.  It’s not really scalable. It is dependent on you being there, doing the work. You can’t pass it off to somebody else, and you can’t really scale beyond a certain point.  You Have Long Term Money Goals You want to buy a house, you want to pay for your children’s college, or perhaps an early retirement. The situation is different, because in this case you want to build a sustainable, scalable business. Something like Side Hustle Teachers, or like what you have heard some of our guests talk about, they have created a business that can grow beyond them.  Pros You are in complete control. It is your business and it can be whatever you want it to be. Obviously, there’s some leg work that goes into that and some research, but you can make it work any way you want to. Once you set it up, you have a long term sustainable income to rely on.  It's fairly simple to bring that up once you have a scalable business. If you are making $1000 a month, and it turns out your kid wants to take special dance lessons, and you need another $500 a month, you can ramp up your business pretty quickly to earn it.  Cons It takes time. It is not an overnight thing. It is a long term play.  It requires self discipline. You need to be the one because you don’t have a boss telling you what to do. Setting your own hours and making yourself work even if you don’t necessarily feel like it. You’re in complete control. Your business and how you set it up, is all on you.  Here’s why I am such an advocate for option number 3- building your own, sustainable business.  If you are an exhausted broke teacher, this is the only option that allows you to stop trading time for money. You might start out that way. If you are a life coach and you start working with people one on one, you’re still trading time for money. But eventually, you can go beyond that and create a course, or train other people to coach in the way that you do. There’s really no limit to what you can do with your own business. As opposed to when you are working for somebody else, you are limited.  It also allows you to build an income that gives you the option of teaching or not. I don’t know about you but there have been times in my teaching career when I have said, “I don’t want to do this right now, but I don’t have any other options. I’m not trained for anything else.” This was before I started side hustling and realized that I am trained for just about everything else. This allows you to take a step back and have the financial freedom to know that teaching is an option. It is a choice you are making and it is not something that is being forced upon you. As someone who is only teaching because of my side hustle and the personal growth and freedom that it gave me, that is a great feeling. I am teaching because I want to.  Another reason I support this is because we have enough bosses. Between our immediate superior, team leader, school level admin, district level admin, and everyone else, we have enough bosses. We don’t need to have someone else tell us what to do anymore! Teachers already have crazy business skills. Teachers don’t know they have these skills or how they apply outside the classroom but they do in so many ways. There’s really no excuse and no reason to not build your own business. Check out my bonus episode about 10 reasons teachers make great business owners here. Here’s the good news, you don’t have to choose. You don’t have to have only one side hustle. Would I recommend it forever? Probably not. But when you are first starting out, it is okay to do more than one. If you really plan it out, your job and business could be related. You don’t have to choose one or the other. If you need money right now, you could always go in and do one of those jobs that is going to get you money right now.  Just remember to keep an eye on the future. If your goal is long term financial stability, you’re going to need to do something that is going to set you up for the long term. And driving for Uber or delivering for Instacart are great short term ways to get cash, but they are not a long term play.  I am a huge advocate for starting your own business. I have seen the power that it has in people’s lives and the changes and differences it has made for teachers. So i strongly recommend you consider this option, but remember that you don’t have to choose.  If you want to start building your business and setting yourself up for long-term financial success, I invite you to check out Edupreneur Academy. It’s full of practical, step-by-step guidance on how to start and grow your side hustle while still being a boss in the classroom. To learn more or to join now, go to sidehustleteachers.com/academy

Want multiple streams of income? How would it feel not to be 100% dependent on just your day job income? Today we want to dive into streams of income that others use to smooth out the edges as things get rough - and in 2020, everybody needs multiple streams of income! Develop Your Multiple Streams of Income (MSI) Here are some of the more popular categories others use for diversification of their income. Your Day Job - Never forget to focus on this income source. Providing service through a third party - Pizza delivery, shopper, Uber driver, Amazon driver, UPS, or another delivery driver. Pros - They do the marketing. Cons - You have little control over what you do. Consulting/coaching service - Fiverr, Upwork, etc. - This is the easiest thing to do where you have a little control over what you offer. Pros - It is easy to get started. Cons - Takes your time to deliver the service. Home services - From yard work, small repairs, pressure washing, cooking, cleaning, closet organizing - something for everyone here. Pros - We all have something to offer. Cons - You have to work on location. Creating Intellectual Property - Udemy, teaching, writing books, etc. Pros - Recurring income and some platforms help you market. Cons - Can feel daunting to start. No money flows until you are complete. Real Estate Rentals - Cost more to get started and can be a long haul to start to win. Pros - Can be almost passive. Cons - The higher cost to get started. Buying a Business Pros - Can generate much higher returns than others. Cons - Takes time to work a deal and can turn into a lot of cash. My MSI Stocks - The biggest win for growth. Little maintenance, significant growth. Not something that many start with. E-Commerce - The most money and the easiest to ramp up or down as I need Real estate - This is steady money. Houses paid off. Good renters. Maintenance a constant issue but comes and goes. Online courses - Steady income with almost no maintenance activity. Books - Money goes up and down at times, but again little maintenance activity. Affiliates - These are products from other companies I sell and they ship. Amazon is one. Others are companies that have products which complement my own products. Coaching/Consulting - Professional startup and career coaching and business consulting, mostly involving organizational and process improvement. I have never focused heavily on developing this path - but the work is enjoyable. Click here to listen now. Subscribe & Review in iTunes Are you subscribed to my Company of One? If you’re not, I encourage you to do that today so you don’t miss an episode. Click here to subscribe in iTunes! If you like what you hear, I would be really grateful if you left me a review over on iTunes, too. Those reviews help other people find my podcast. I also love reading them and connecting with you. Just click here to review, select “Ratings and Reviews” and “Write a Review” and let me know what your favorite part of the podcast is. Thank you! Links mentioned in this episode: Fiverr Upwork Udemy

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.     Last weekend we went to see the Charlottesville Symphony perform Tchaikovsky's 5th, and it was a wonderful performance. I also spent the weekend winterizing my Chickens, Ducks, and Rabbits which is this weeks topic. I know this topic is late for many in the United States, but here in Virginia, we are just getting down to freezing temperatures at night. I hope that you all that celebrate Thanksgiving had a great Thanksgiving. On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving we planned to traveled to North Carolina, but we had two flat tires on the way. One in Lynchburgh, and a second flat about 50 miles later in Danville Virginia. Both were broken tire valve stems. We had the car towed to a Walmart, and luckily the tire center was open on Thanksgiving for a few hours, and they could make the tire repairs so that we could continue on our way. We stayed in North Carolina at a wonderful bed and breakfast called the Dailey Retreat. I highly recommend if you are looking for a bed and breakfast in Greensboro that you check out the Dailey retreat. Our host Jean was very friendly and helpful, especially with accommodating us with a challenging check in. https://www.daileyrenewalretreat.net/ The bed and breakfast was very clean, and the organic breakfasts were delicious! This is the first year that we had a Thanksgiving meal in a restaurant on Thanksgiving. I think I prefer a home cooked meal. We traveled to Greensboro, North Carolina to see a Canadian band "The Dead South" perform on Black Friday, and there performance was outstanding! And now enough about the past week or so, and on with the topic this week. Preparing rabbits for winter - Caring for your rabbits in cold weather The days are getting shorter and shorter…winter is coming! Now is the time to make your winter preparations so your rabbits can stay cozy & dry all winter long. If you own a rabbit hutch and keep your furry friends outdoors year round, when the cold temperatures and biting winds of winter come, you will have to do something to protect them. Winter time when it’s cold can be very hard on rabbits. By cold, we mean if the temperature falls below zero. Keeping your rabbits warm is important. A hutch is a fine outdoor environment for rabbits, and with a few seasonal modifications, your rabbits will not only survive but will thrive during the cold winter months. Remember, wild rabbits survive over the winter all the time, so there's no reason that your domesticated ones shouldn't as well. In the wild they would live in underground burrows where the temperature changes slightly between the summer and winter months. Raising them above ground means they are subjected to extreme temperature changes. For this reason, we need to help them stay warm and dry. Rabbits are one of the more cold resistant backyard animals, but they still need a little extra care when it dips below freezing. Although I live in Central Virginia, we usually get a few storms of icy and snowy weather in the winter. If you live in a colder area, rabbits could be a very good livestock choice for you, as bunnies are pretty easy to take care of in the cold. The one caveat is if it gets super cold, (as in ten degrees below) their ears can get frostbite. If your area gets that cold, you will need a more robust shelter or a rabbit barn for your rabbits in winter more than a basic outdoor hutch or colony. It is also absolutely essential that the rabbits have already spent the entire fall outdoors before attempting to leave them outside in the winter. The reason for this is the winter fur. Without the exposure to the changes of the seasons, rabbits will not have enough winter fur to make it through the colder season outside. In general, rabbits are better equipped to deal with the cold than the extreme summer heat. Rabbits are most comfortable with temperatures in the low- to mid-60’s. But they will usually be just fine with very little interaction from us in temperatures as low as 20°F. Rabbits, like many other animals, put on thick winter coats as cooler temperatures approach and may need extra brushing during the winter due to their thicker coats. Rabbits that are pregnant, old, and/or sick should ideally not be left outside over the winter months. Also, not every rabbit breed grows a sufficient amount of winter fur. Lionheads and other dwarf rabbits, for example, need to come indoors when the temperatures get below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, or live in a very well insulated and possibly heated large house. Sadly, some people won’t go out in the bad weather to care for their rabbits so they get neglected. Regardless of the weather, your rabbits should be cared for. Every rabbit set up is different, but we have some suggestions to get ready for winter! Here are some important things to think about before those cold and brutal days: Take Precautions Before the Onset of Winter 1. Shelter and Protection Housing can be evaluated with a few factors: ventilation, size, material, temperature, and protection. Ventilation is the process of moving air above and below the cage to decrease temperature and ammonia odor, which can be damaging to a rabbit’s respiratory system. This can be accomplished naturally or mechanically, but you must ensure that direct drafts are not imposed on the rabbits. The ideal temperature for an adult rabbit’s environment is 45–70 degrees Fahrenheit. Housing for rabbits can be maintained either inside or outside a physical structure. Outside facilities require that the rabbits be protected from the weather and predators. There are numerous materials that can be utilized to build rabbit cages; however, remember that rabbits are gnawers, meaning they will eat building materials. The material used will depend on whether you have an inside wire cage or an outside cage. The outside cage typically includes (three) plywood or pressed board (sidewalls) and roof to provide necessary protection for the rabbits. Or you may have a hanging cage rack system that is covered. Inside cages will usually be constructed from galvanized welded wire. Outside housing The list is endless to what people are doing this day and age to provide their bunnies with the most luxurious suitable accommodation. ⦁ Outhouses converted to bunny homes with outside run attached. ⦁ Hutches placed within an aviary ⦁ Dog kennels with the runs attached (these come in all shapes and sizes). ⦁ Sheds (wooden ones only) Plastic or metal ones can get too hot. ⦁ If you are using a hutch only, then make sure it is a decent size for the breed, and they will need an additional area for their exercise time. Building your own enclosure Remember the bigger the better for your bunny and for you to as it will be easier to clean out and also you will get so much more entertainment watching your rabbits skip and run at great speeds. Plywood and pine are safe woods. Most hutch roofs are made from marine plywood covered in roofing felt. Roofs with a slight slope, to prevent sitting water, will have a longer lifespan than flat roofs. Galvanized wire no bigger than 1 inch by half inch should be size of squares. Never use wiring with large squares as rats and weasels could get in or cats/foxes could injure your bunny through these gaps. Prime welded wire mesh is best. Predator proofing It is extremely important that all enclosures are made predator proof. ⦁ You need to place your rabbits accommodation on cement slabs to avoid a fox digging in or a rabbit digging out. ⦁ Make sure doors are secure with bolts at the top and bottom for extra security. ⦁ Always provide hideouts – safe places to hide when they get spooked or feel threatened ⦁ Tunnels are good for hide outs. ⦁ Place boards at the front of your enclosure to add extra privacy & to help stop your rabbit getting easily spooked. Weather proofing It is essential especially with certain types of enclosures. You need to protect them from the wind, rain and strong sunlight. Covers can be bought for standard size hutches but can be costly. Corrugated plastic sheeting is a good way to protect from rain and is excellent for roofing. Just watch the clear plastic in the summer as this could heat your enclosure up like a green house very quickly. Place sun reflectors underneath to help stop this. Use bubble wrap or plastic sheeting like builders sheets or plastic dust sheets or tarpaulin for protection from wind and rain. Attach to a piece of wood at the top and hook this to the cage to create your own little roller blind. Or by adding some wooden panels to each side of your enclosure and making them an inch wider than the enclosure allows you to have something to attach the bubble wrap or plastic sheeting to. Metal clips keep it in place very securely when it is very windy. Always leave gaps for air flow. Cover a sheet of wood, wider than the accommodation itself, with felt roofing and place on top of enclosures for added protection. Keep weighted down with bricks or slabs. Large beach mats or windbreakers are ideal for protection Venetian blinds or cane/bamboo blinds are another option. Attach bubble wrap to the inside of them in the winter for added protection Do not use fabric that can get damp as this will draw the heat out of the hutch. If large enclosures like sheds/playhouses have gaps around the top area you can stuff them with bubble wrap to stop drafts. Just make sure its out of reach of your rabbits. Location of the hutch Move your rabbit hutch to a place that is protected from the prevailing winter winds. Cold wind will freeze a rabbit far faster than the ambient temperature alone. The cage should be located in a sheltered area that affords protection from the wind, especially north winds. It should have a roof of some kind (many rabbit owners prefer roofing tin since it cannot be chewed) and, depending on the kind of shelter, will likely need protection on the sides. Wooden hutches with wire bottoms and wire fronts are great for cold weather because they offer protection on the top and three sides, though these also run the risk of being chewed by a bored rabbit. For maximum protection, a heavy canvas cover can be made for the front of the cage that will be rolled up during nice weather, but that can be put into place during wind, storms, and at night. Foremost of all considerations during cold weather is to keep your pet rabbit dry. Most breeds of rabbits have thick coats which are exceptional insulators against the weather, but if water reaches their skin they will be unable to stay warm. Keeping the animal safe from precipitation will remove the largest of these risks, but there are still others. Water dishes should be securely attached to the side of the cage so that the rabbit can not accidentally knock it over. Ideally, this dish will also be up off of the cage floor so that the rabbit does not run the risk of stepping in it. Wire-bottomed cages that will not allow waste or spilled food and water to sit within reach of the rabbit are ideal for staying clean and dry. This allows all waste to fall straight through the bars and get completely out of the cage. You may already keep your rabbits' hutch in a shed, garage or outbuilding year round, but if you do not, it is worth considering if you can do this over the winter months in order to make caring for them in the cold a little easier. Remember if you are planning to keep the hutch in a garage, that you should not use the same one that you park your car in as rabbits are extremely sensitive to the carbon monoxide and other toxins present in exhaust smoke. These hints and tips on winterizing the hutch are especially important if your rabbits will remain outside and exposed to the elements during the winter, but are also relevant when the hutch is kept inside as well. 2. Winterizing the Hutch Hutches need to be clean and dry. Rabbits can cope with the cold fairly well, but not dampness. Make sure you cover up your rabbit’s hutch at night to prevent any drafts. ⦁ A hutch can only provide protection if it's in good repair, so, if you haven't already, now is the time to make any repairs to your rabbit's home and make sure it's water tight. Start by checking the inside of your hutch for signs of water stains or damp that may indicate water is getting in. Signs of damp near the top of the hutch may indicate a problem with the roof or walls where as damp near the bottom may be an indication of water rising through the base of the hutch. ⦁ Look for gaps in the hutch walls - Check there are no gaps through which rain and wind can get in. Make sure the wood isn't damp or rotting, and reapply a rabbit-safe wood protecting coating every few years. You can also line the inside walls with newspaper. ⦁ Renew Preservative - The side walls of rabbit hutches also need to be weather proofed. The protective coating will wear and needs to be reapplied every few years - more if necessary. This will stop the damp entering the hutch and also protect the wood from rotting. To renew the stain/paint/varnish, give it a good brush with a stiff brush to remove and dirt and lose paint, sand it lightly, re-brush to remove any dust and then repaint. If you are painting over the same color you won't generally need as many coats as starting from scratch. Most water-based wood preservatives are pet safe. ⦁ Check the roofing felt of the hutch to make sure that it is watertight and in a good state of repair. Any wooden joints and planking should be dry, and show no sign of water marks of staining which might indicate that rain is seeping in from under the roof. ⦁ Make sure that all of the walls of the hutch are also in good condition, and suitably painted or varnished against the elements, as the roof is not the only area which can allow moisture and rain to penetrate your rabbits' home. Check inside and outside of the hutch carefully for any signs of water ingress, such as damp patches or tidemarks. ⦁ Damp and moisture can also enter the hutch from below, so make sure that the hutch is always raised from ground level or a sturdy base such as bricks or a table frame, in order to allow free circulation of air and avoid rising damp. ⦁ Move your rabbit hutch to a place that is protected from the prevailing winter winds. ⦁ Raise the hutch off the floor - Raise your hutch by placing bricks underneath, or by attaching long legs. This will help to prevent damp from the ground affecting the bottom of the hutch, and also stop ground frost freezing the base. It will also protect a hutch in an area that is likely to flood a little (obviously won't protect from severe flooding). Ideally rabbit hutches should be on long legs all the time to make it hard for predators to get near. ⦁ If the hutch is attached to a run, buy a waterproof cover to keep the run area dry. Use a tarp with eyelets so it can be secured in place over the hutch and run. If you don’t want to buy one, make your own by using something like plastic sheeting, tar paper or Plexiglas. ⦁ Put wind breaks up around the hutch and run. ⦁ If you have a Rabbit barn - Line your shed/barn to create a double wall and an extra layer of insulation. If your rabbits live in a shed or playhouse all the time, rather than a hutch, you can add insulation to the walls to help keeping it warm. ⦁ If your rabbits live in a shed then you can use a greenhouse heater to help keep the temperature above freezing. ⦁ Large mesh doors can be partially covered with clear Perspex or plastic, allowing your rabbit to see out and the sun to come in but preventing wind and rain from enter. Look for panels designed for greenhouses. Ventilation is still important though, so leave a gap of several inches for this. You will need to design the cover in order to provide protection from the cold and harsh winds while still ensuring that your rabbits are getting enough air. ⦁ Buy a ‘Snugglesafe Heatpad’. You warm it up in the microwave and it releases heat for a few hours, so you’ll need to reheat it a couple of times a day. ⦁ Add a low wattage heater to your shed, but make sure the rabbits can not get to the electrical cord. ⦁ Entrances should face south, away from the wind. If this is not possible, turn it around and put something in front to block the direct wind and rain Insulation ⦁ Cover the hutch on three sides with a down filled blanket. Make sure the side that is not covered has the most protection from the wind. Cover the down blanket with a waterproof tarp. Water is the next greatest threat to a rabbit in the winter. Wet fur does not insulate the rabbit and allows body heat to escape rapidly. ⦁ Put old blankets or carpets over the hutch and run, but under the tarpaulin for extra insulation. Make sure the rabbits cannot chew on these as this could result in an intestinal blockage. ⦁ Wrap the Hutches in Clear Plastic - I suggest clear plastic so that there is more sunlight coming into the hutches. Rabbits needs vitamin D just as much as we do. And they definitely will not mate without a good source of it. This can prove a challenge in early spring months. With that said, I did use tarps over many of our hutches. Just about anything can go around the hutches as long as it breaks the winter winds from coming in. Everyday lift the tarps and plastic up during the day, on one side, so that they rabbits can get extra sunlight. If your rabbits do not get enough sunlight, it can make them easily sick as well. ⦁ Stack With Straw - Your other option can be stacking straw around your hutches, but this can get pricey. Straw insulates as well as breaks the wind. Many people prefer this as it is the warmest option. In order for it to work properly, the straw needs to go on the outside of the hutch, otherwise the rabbits will burrow into it and rearrange it for you. ⦁ Use some cheap carpet samples for the rabbits to lay or sit on (make sure the edges aren’t fraying). Keep an eye on the samples to make sure the rabbits are not chewing on them. Nesting ⦁ Add extra straw to the hutch, especially in the area where the rabbits bed. Extra straw is another added layer of insulation for your pets. Straw is only $6 or so per bale. It's not that expensive to add extra if necessary. Because straw is an insulator, your rabbits can arrange it in their hutches the way they wish, and they will burrow into it to keep warm. Change this straw every other day to prevent moisture from building up in the sleeping area. Bedding needs to be warm and dry. Change it as frequently as you can. Cedar and pine shavings are not safe to use for bedding. The aromatic oils can be toxic to rabbits, raising their liver enzymes, and can cause death. Although the studies on this used un-kilned chips, so use caution and your discretion. Straw is safe and warmer than hay but will mold quickly so it must be changed often as moldy bedding can make your rabbit sick. Aspen bedding is a very good choice. Always use extra bedding in the the winter so your rabbit can have a place to burrow in and keep warm. ⦁ If the rabbits don't already have a nesting box, this is a perfect time to add one. Make sure that the rabbit has a nesting box available that is not much larger than the rabbit’s body size. This could be as simple as a shoe box with and entry cut into one side. The box can be lined with straw to provide greater warmth. If the box is too large, it will allow too much room for cold air to get in around the rabbit, especially to its less-protected feet. The box should allow for comfortable entrance and exit, with just enough space for the rabbit to turn around inside it. The rabbit’s body should fit snugly within the nesting materials when it curls up to sleep. This will allow the rabbit a warmer refuge during cold nights or windy days when bitter winds can easily come up through a wire bottom and freeze its feet. If your rabbit urinates in the sleeping area, get a litter tray which fits inside the cardboard box, this will help by making it easier for you to clean out and it’ll make the box last longer. Warning ⦁ Word of caution regarding cardboard box for rabbit to sleep in. I have seen rabbits nibble at the box and tear it apart so that the bedding was too thin to keep them warm. So if it is colder, it is possible for the rabbit to freeze to death during the night. Cold weather can be deadly for any animal, but with just a few precautions and a rabbit’s naturally well-insulated body, the animal can live warm and comfortable in even the coldest climates. We have never once lost a rabbit to the cold or winter months, and I feel like that's something to take pride in. However, it happens. Even to the best rabbit breeders and keepers. Sometimes, winter is just incredibly mean, and there could be other health issues that you were not aware of with your rabbit. Don't beat yourself up too much—just continue to strive for better! Rabbits survive in the wild further north than most other animals, but your pet rabbit relies on you to give it the advantages that allow their wild cousins to live throughout the year. 3. Water Supply RABBITS DRINK MORE WATER IN COLD WEATHER THAN IN HOT. BURNING CALORIES TO KEEP WARM CAUSES THEM TO DEHYDRATE. So be sure to check the water supply frequently. The rabbit's body is made up of 50 to 75 percent water. Water forms the basis of blood and digestive fluids, and is contained in tissue, fat and bones. The rabbit's body can’t store extra water, and needs a fresh supply every day to make up for losses from the lungs, skin, urine and feces. Water is vital for most bodily functions, including: ⦁ Maintaining the health and integrity of every cell in the body. ⦁ Helping eliminate the byproducts of the body’s metabolism, such as electrolytes and urea. ⦁ Moistening mucous membranes, such as those of the lungs and mouth. ⦁ Lubricating and cushioning joints. ⦁ Aiding in digestion and preventing fecal impaction. ⦁ Carrying nutrients and oxygen to cells. ⦁ Keeping the bloodstream fluid enough to flow through blood vessels. ⦁ Serving as a shock absorber inside the eyes, spinal cord and in the amniotic sac surrounding the fetus in pregnancy. Rabbits cannot endure water deprivation for more then 24 hours (even less during hot weather) without serious health consequences. Simply put, rabbits must have access to fresh, clean water at all times in order to thrive. Rabbits should be given pure water to drink, from the same source as you'd use for drinking water. Water in Winter The biggest concern for rabbits in cold weather is keeping their water liquid. It can be difficult to keep your rabbit supplied with water in freezing temperatures. Especially in the cold, it does not take rabbits long to suffer severe dehydration and they must have access to water at all times. While most rabbit owners prefer water bottles with a ball-activated tube so that rabbits always have clean water to drink, these can be hazardous during the winter. The thin metal tube freezes much faster than the water in the bottle, so caretakers may believe that their rabbit still has drinkable water when the tube is frozen solid. Most people choose to carry out warm water twice a day to their rabbits. ⦁ A plain dish, or a dish that uses a 20-ounce or 1-liter plastic bottle for its supply, is preferable. The wider mouth of these bottles does not freeze as easily. If heated dishes that the rabbit can not chew are available, the water can be kept from freezing altogether. ⦁ Place a water dish in a sheltered area inside the cage, enough above the floor to keep it from being stepped in or spilled. Fill the water every day and check it several times during the day, especially in very cold weather. The heat from the rabbit’s body inside a well-sheltered cage can often be sufficient to keep the water from freezing, or will slow the rate of freezing. ⦁ Putting your water supply near a light bulb is sometimes a sufficient low cost solution ⦁ I have an automatic watering system made of PVC pipe which we wrap with insulating foam. The problem is that the brass fittings in the waterer itself freezes. There is nothing worse than broken pipes. After a few years of mistakes, I have found that it was safer to turn the water supply off all together when temps are expected in the 20's and below. In the evening, I go out with several gallons of warm water and fill the reservoir and turn the water back on during warm winter day. One easy way of keeping water lines in an automatic watering system is by using a heating coil which one would usually use to keep pipes thawed. If you are running your water from a main water tank, you might also be able to use a bubbler for an aquarium or a small aquarium or pond heater. This year I plan to run a pump through the water lines back to the reservoir with a heater in the reservoir. ⦁ Invest in a thermal water bottle cover. This will keep the water in the bottle warm longer, so the rabbits will have more time to drink it. Check the water at least twice a day and fill it with room temp water. DIY by wrapping the bottle up with bubble wrap and an old sock or using insulators designed for wine bottles. ⦁ I am not fancy enough to have heated water bottles, so when we shut down the auto water system, or it froze, we must check on our rabbits twice a day to switch out water. Before the auto system, we used water bottles, but the metal spout on water bottles freezes too quickly, so in the winter months we exchange our bottles for crocks. In the event that they freeze, the rabbits can still lick the ice. I would change the water in the morning and evening — they must be changed twice a day in order for your rabbits to remain healthy. ⦁ I have found it easier to fill a bucket up with all the frozen crocks, swap them with fresh unfrozen crocks, and put the bucket with frozen crocks inside to let the crocks thaw. I highly suggest using plastic or metal crocks. Ceramic ones can crack and break easily. ⦁ Crocks stay unfrozen longer than water bottles because the spout on the water bottle freezes quickly. Also, the rabbits can lick the ice in the crock if they really need to. ⦁ If you use bottles then it's helpful to have a spare bottle(s) so you can leave one inside whilst the ice defrosts and use the spare, it's much easier that trying to chop the ice out. The plastic bottles tend to become brittle in the cold and are more likely to crack or shatter, so it's handy to have a back up too. ⦁ If you get caught unprepared, large tuna cans will work. Just make sure to crimp or smooth down any rough edges. ⦁ Heated Pet Bowl - This bowl is heated to prevent water freezing, but will require an electricity connection and you'll need to hide the wire in trunking to prevent chewing. Do NOT underestimate how important it is to water your rabbits twice a day when it is icy. Dehydration can kill your rabbits extremely quickly. 4. Feed in Winter Keep in mind that outdoor rabbits may need more food during the winter months; they use more energy heating themselves so need to take in more energy through their food. Rabbits need more calories to keep up their weight in the winter. You may also want to keep an eye on their body condition to make sure they don’t gain weight. Rabbits in winter can get fat and then have trouble getting pregnant come springtime! The best way to manage this is to monitor your rabbits weight, to see if they are maintaining a healthy body weight. Any changes in diet need to happen slowly. As always, be careful with the treats because sudden changes in diet can kill your rabbit. Offer one new item at a time and slowly increase the amount. It’s a good idea to start around early fall to be ready for winter. ⦁ Feed needs to available at all times. Hay and feed should be slightly increased as they will need the extra calories in the winter to maintain their body weight. Black Oil Sunflower Seeds Black Oil Sunflower Seeds are a treat for rabbits. Black oil sunflower seeds are high energy foods. You can sprinkle them on top of their regular food, or increase their ratio if you mix your own feed. We want it to be a "treat", rather than a "meal", because if they were to feed on too much every day, they would be extremely over-weight. Black oil sunflower seeds causes your rabbit to gain fat in their body. While this is bad for mating, this is wonderful insulation for their body in the winter months. Consider giving them a few extra handfuls of Black oil sunflower seeds each month to help them gain a little weight to keep warm. Rolled Oats Rolled oats are a high energy food. You can sprinkle them on top of their regular food, or increase their ratio if you mix your own feed. Add ACV to their Water Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) will help keep their bodies alkaline and healthy in the cold months. Make sure you use organic ACV with the Mother. In fact, it's a great way to keep them healthy all of the time. I find that we tend to give it to them more in the winter, however. The measurement should be 1 tbs. to a gallon of water. Or you can just top off each crock or bottle with a few drops. This doesn't need to be an everyday ritual, but can be done several times a week. 5. If you find that you have a litter in the winter months... Many good rabbit mamas will tend very well to her babies, as long as she has the proper tools. Make sure you are feeding her plenty of food, because not only is she trying to keep her body warm, she is also going to eat more while pregnant and nursing. Given a good amount of straw, she will do just fine. But make sure you are giving her straw every few days as necessary, as she will build and re-build her nest as her babies grow. If you have good mothers they should pull plenty of fur to keep the babies warm even if it’s below freezing. The greatest danger is to newborn kits. Keep a close eye on any does who are due and make sure she pulls plenty of fur and gets all the babies into the nest box. If you find cold ones you may be able to resuscitate them if you start soon enough. 6. Exercise Rabbits still need exercise in winter so allow them to have a run around, or let them have a short time in the garden but make sure they don't get wet. Your rabbits will still need to stretch their legs and run about during the colder months, so try to allow for this during the warmer times of the day rather than early mornings and evenings. If your rabbits get very wet, dry them with a towel and let them warm up naturally indoors (do not put them by a heater which they can't move away from). Do as much insulating of their run as possible so they can still go in it, and try and move it somewhere where it will get some winter sunshine. Avoid trips into the house in the winter. Bunnies can handle the cold, but they can’t handle extreme and sudden changes in temperature. A cold basement might be the exception to that. 7. Hibernation Rabbits don't hibernate, If you rabbits become lethargic and limp, they are too cold. Get them inside a warmer space immediately and get their body temperature back up, and take it to the vet. If a rabbit is inactive and doesn’t eat, you know it’s an emergency! Closing Do a health check up on your rabbits at least daily over the winter. Be sure to check them for any signs of coughing, obstructed breathing or mucus discharge around the eyes or nose. Rabbits can get colds and will need to be treated. It doesn’t take long to give your rabbits a quick health check. Obviously, don’t let your rabbit get wet, that’s a great way to end up with a sick or dead rabbit. Outdoor bunnies rely on their owners to keep them safe in all kinds of weather. They are silent creatures and can't bark or ask you for help so please keep a close eye on your rabbits. Any changes or anything you may be worried about, phone your vet. With just a little extra care you should be able to keep your rabbits comfy all winter. I can’t say the same for your hands when breaking the ice out of their crocks though! This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. https://www.saveafluff.co.uk/rabbit-info/winter-care-for-rabbits http://www.therabbithouse.com/outdoor/rabbitwinter.asp https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/preparing-rabbits-for-winter-zbcz1601 https://farmingmybackyard.com/winter-rabbit-care/ http://www.crossroadsrabbitry.com/winter-care-tips-for-your-rabbit/ https://bunnyapproved.com/winter-bunnies-how-to-protect-rabbits-from-the-cold/ http://blog.rabbitholehay.com/winterizing-your-rabbit-hutch-for-winter https://www.thecapecoop.com/getting-rabbits-ready-for-winter/ https://www.cuteness.com/article/keep-rabbits-warm-winter-rabbit-hutch https://pethelpful.com/rabbits/Tips-for-Keeping-Pet-Rabbits-Outdoors-in-Cold-Weather https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/caring-for-your-rabbits-during-the-winter.html https://barbibrownsbunnies.com/winter/ https://www.raisingrabbitsformeat.com/preparing-rabbits-for-winter/ Word of the Week - Receipt Brer Fox Catches Old Man Tarrypin A Georgia Folktale retold by S. E. Schlosser Well now, Brer Rabbit had made friends with Old Man Tarrypin, a big turtle that lived in the pond near his house. Brer Rabbit and Old Man Tarrypin liked to pull tricks on Brer Fox, and that rascally fellow got pretty mad about it. Since he couldn't catch Brer Rabbit nohow, Brer Fox decided that he'd get even with Old Man Tarrypin instead. He started walking beside the pond every day, hoping to find the turtle out of the water. One morning, as he was taking his daily stroll, Brer Fox saw Old Man Tarrypin sitting right in the center of the road. The old turtle looked hot and bothered about something. He kept shaking his head back and forth and he was panting like he was out of breath. "Howdy, Brer Tarrypin," said Brer Fox, stopping beside the old turtle. "What's the matter wid you?" "I was a-strolling in the field beside my pond when the farmer came along and set it on fire," Old Man Tarrypin gasped. "I had to run and run, but that ol' fire was faster than me, so I curled up in my shell while it passed right over me! My shell is hotter than the noon-day sun, and I think I done singed my tail!" "Let me have a look," said Brer Fox. So Old Man Tarrypin uncurled his tail and poked it out of his shell. Immediately, Brer Fox grabbed him by the tail and swung him right off the ground. "I gotcha now, Brer Tarrypin," cried Brer Fox. "You ain't gonna bother me no more!" Well, Old Man Tarrypin begged and begged Brer Fox not to drown him. He'd rather go back into the fire in the field on account of he'd kind of gotten used to being burned. Brer Fox swung the poor old turtle back and forth by his tail, trying to decide what to do. Putting Old Man Tarrypin into the fire was a tempting idea, but then he remembered how the old turtle had curled up into his shell so the fire couldn't touch him. Brer Fox frowned. Fire was no good, then. Brer Fox decided to drown Old Man Tarrypin instead. He tucked the turtle under his arm and carried him down to the springhouse by the pond. "Please, oh please don't drown me," Old Man Tarrypin begged. "I ain't making no promises," Brer Fox retorted. "You've played too many tricks on me, Brer Tarrypin." Brer Fox thrust him into the water and began bouncing him up and down. "Oh, I is drowning," shouted Old Man Tarrypin when his head bounced out of the water. "Don't let go of my tail, Brer Fox or I'll be drowned for sure!" "That's the idea, Brer Tarrypin," Brer Fox yelled back and let go of his tail. Immediately Old Man Tarrypin splashed down and down into the water and thumped onto the mud on the bottom, kerplicky-splat. That's when Brer Fox remembered that Old Man Tarrypin lived in the pond, and there was never any fear of him drowning, nohow! He could hear him laughing from the bottom of the pond: "I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere". Brer Fox jumped up and down in fury. Old Man Tarrypin had escaped him! From the other side of the pond, Brer Bull Frog called out: "Knee-deep! Knee-deep!" Brer Fox glared at the pond, and then looked back at Brer Bull Frog. "It's only knee-deep?" he asked suspiciously. "Knee-deep, knee-deep!" Brer Bull Frog said again. All the little frogs joined in the chorus then. "Better-believe-it! Better-believe-it!" Well, thought Brer Fox, if it was only knee deep, then he'd have no trouble catching Old Man Tarrypin. "Wade-in, wade-in!" croaked Brer Bull Frog. "Knee-deep, knee-deep!" agreed all the little frogs. Brer Fox didn't much like water, but he really wanted to catch Old Man Tarrypin. He approached the edge of the pond cautiously. From underneath the water, Old Man Tarrypin laughed at him, and his words bubbled up to Brer Fox: "I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere! I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere." Well. That did it. Brer Fox ran right up to the edge of the pond. Leaning over, he looked into the water and saw another fox staring at him. "Dat's-your-brother! Dat's-your-brother," Brer Bull Frog told Brer Fox. Brer Fox was thrilled. He didn't know he had a brother. Now that there were two foxes, catching Old Man Tarrypin would be a cinch! Brer Fox leaned down to shake hands with his new-found brother, and toppled right down into the deep water of the pond. All of the frogs laughed and laughed at the trick they had played on Brer Fox, and Old Man Tarrypin started swimming up from the bottom of the pond, his red eyes fixed on Brer Fox's tail. Brer Fox knew that the old turtle wanted to pull him down under that water and drown him, so he learned to swim mighty quick! With much splashing and squirming and kicking, Brer Fox made it to the edge of the pond, where he jumped out and ran away as fast as he could, while Brer Bull Frog laughed and the little frogs shouted with glee. The last thing he heard as he rounded the corner was the voice of Old Man Tarrypin calling: "I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere". Brer Fox never messed with Old Man Tarrypin again. http://americanfolklore.net/folklore/2010/07/brer_fox_catches_old_man_tarry.html BOSS - Black Oil Sunflower Seeds Sunflower, Helianthus, is only one of many plants that rabbits find attractive. The rabbits will eat every part of sunflowers, including the seeds and flowers. https://www.hunker.com/13406359/natural-remedy-to-keep-rabbits-from-eating-sunflowers Helianthus or sunflower (/ˌhiːliˈænθəs/)[2] is a genus of plants comprising about 70 species.[3][4] Except for three species in South America, all Helianthus species are native to North America. The common name, "sunflower", typically refers to the popular annual species Helianthus annuus, or the common sunflower, whose round flower heads in combination with the ligules look like the sun.[5] This and other species, notably Jerusalem artichoke (H. tuberosus), are cultivated in temperate regions and some tropical regions as food crops for humans, cattle, and poultry, and as ornamental plants.[6] Perennial sunflower species are not as popular for gardens due to their tendency to spread rapidly and become invasive. The whorled sunflower, H. verticillatus, was listed as an endangered species in 2014 when the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service issued a final rule protecting it under the Endangered Species Act. The primary threats are industrial forestry and pine plantations in Alabama, Georgia, and Tennessee. They grow to 1.8 m (6 ft) and are primarily found in woodlands, adjacent to creeks and moist, prairie-like areas.[7] Contents 1 Description 2 Production 3 Diversity 4 Gallery 5 References 6 External links 7 See also Description Close-up of a sunflower Close-up of a sunflower The disk of a sunflower is made up of many little flowers. The ray flowers here are dried up. A field of sunflowers in North Carolina Sunflowers are usually tall annual or perennial plants that in some species can grow to a height of 300 cm (120 in) or more. They bear one or more wide, terminal capitula (flower heads), with bright yellow ray florets at the outside and yellow or maroon (also known as a brown/red) disc florets inside. Several ornamental cultivars of H. annuus have red-colored ray florets; all of them stem from a single original mutant.[8] During growth, sunflowers tilt during the day to face the sun, but stop once they begin blooming. This tracking of the sun in young sunflower heads is called heliotropism. By the time they are mature, sunflowers generally face east.[9] The rough and hairy stem is branched in the upper part in wild plants, but is usually unbranched in domesticated cultivars. The petiolate leaves are dentate and often sticky. The lower leaves are opposite, ovate, or often heart-shaped. They are distinguished technically by the fact that the ray florets (when present) are sterile, and by the presence on the disk flowers of a pappus that is of two awn-like scales that are caducous (that is, easily detached and falling at maturity). Some species also have additional shorter scales in the pappus, and one species lacks a pappus entirely. Another technical feature that distinguishes the genus more reliably, but requires a microscope to see, is the presence of a prominent, multicellular appendage at the apex of the style. Sunflowers are especially well known for their symmetry based on Fibonacci numbers and the golden angle.[citation needed] Quite a bit of variability is seen among the perennial species that make up the bulk of those in the genus. Some have most or all of the large leaves in a rosette at the base of the plant and produce a flowering stem that has leaves that are reduced in size. Most of the perennials have disk flowers that are entirely yellow, but a few have disk flowers with reddish lobes. One species, H. radula, lacks ray flowers altogether. Helianthus species are used as food plants by the larvae of many lepidopterans. The seeds of H. annuus are used as human food. Production Ukraine and Russia were top sunflower producers of the world in 2017. They contributed half of the sunflower seed production globally, which is approximately 23 MMT altogether.[10] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helianthus Rabbits love black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS). They are a great winter tonic! I only feed BOSS to my rabbits in the cooler months, as it is a high calorie, high fat, “hot” feed. So it keeps them warm and shiny, great for a dry winter coat. This helps by putting the oil back into their coats. I am talking about the black oil sunflower seeds, not the striped seeds. The striped seeds have thicker, tougher hulls. Black oil seeds have thinner shells and are more nutritious. Black oil sunflower seeds contain high levels of protein are rich in vitamin E, linoleic acid and provide a good source of fiber. Rabbits benefit from this snack seed as a high source of energy during cold temperatures. I do not recommend using BOSS during the heat of the summer (June, July, and August here in Maine, it may be longer in your area). I feel that if fed during hot weather it will make them shed more and could cause gut troubles by hair blockage. But if you have a rabbit that is stuck in a molt, then this is a great additive to add to your rabbits diet. By adding the extra calories and protein this will get them to blow their coat and get in new growth. If rabbits are overfed BOSS or fed to often this can also trigger a molt so feed in moderation. This is used as a tonic not a feed! Her are the general nutritional components of black oil sunflower seeds, I also listed some of the benefits of each next to the item 28 percent fat – Fat in a rabbits diet functions as an energy source, aids in the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K). It also adds luster and gloss to the fur and helps slow shedding. 25 percent fiber – This helps provide the bulk and forage requirements for a rabbit and also promoting a healthy gut. 15 percent protein – Protein is need for the growth, disease resistance, milk production, general health and reproduction. Calcium – Calcium plays a key role in bodily processes, such as heart function, muscle contraction, coagulation, and electrolyte levels in the blood. But you do not want excess calcium in a rabbits diet as this can cause urinary tract problems. B vitamins- A rabbit produces its own b vitamin by bacteria in the hind-gut of the rabbit, their requirements are fulfilled through caecotrophy. So B is not very important to a domestic rabbit. Iron- Vitamin E – helps to remove toxins out of your rabbit’s body this helps to maintain the immune system. Potassium- Rabbit need this when they’re sick as they lose potassium through watery feces. Feeding rabbits BOSS- Rabbits should only be fed BOSS as condition mix or tonic treat, 6 seeds per a rabbit top dressed in the feed hopper or crock is enough! DO NOT OVERFEED! You do not want fat lazy rabbits. Feed with the hulls on this is a good added fiber for the rabbits digestive track. Some show breeders feed BOSS as a daily conditioner one week before a show. I do not think you should add them to a bulk bag of feed because you will not be able to control the amount of BOSS each of your rabbits consumes. Black oil sunflower seeds are not a complete source of nutrition for your rabbit, offering only a few necessary nutrients your rabbit needs. These should only be offered as part of a rabbit’s diet, not the sole source of nutrition. Vitamins A and E are vulnerable to poor or prolonged storage in feeds. Both of these vitamins are needed for the willingness and ability of rabbits to breed. Instead of increasing the pellets, I suggest feeding about a tablespoon of black oil sunflower seeds for Vitamin E and a good handful of dark leafy greens (dandelions, plantain, raspberry,and Kale are fine) for Vitamin A. If the rabbits have never had greens, start with just a couple of leaves and work up to more to help with those unwilling does. One of the things I like about the BOSS is that even rabbits who are “off their feed” will nibble at them. When I got my first Angoras many years ago I tried adding BOSS to their diet and the results could be noticed by coat growth and quality, I can only assume it is from more protein-rich foods. Coat growth in Angoras or any wool breed uses a lot of protein to keep the fiber growing having a little extra to burn is making their fiber thick, dense, and soft. PROS- They are packed with nutrition, amino acids, and calories, so they are a great supplement for almost any rabbit to one degree or another. They do help with shiny coats also. The side benefit is the volunteer sunflowers that sprout. I grew some out this summer (Will be growing a plot of the in 2013) and saved the seed heads, then pulled the plant and gave it to the rabbits as a green treat in the cages. They would not only eat the leaves, but they would gnaw the stems until it was all gone! CONS- Not to many, but possibly too high in protein and calories, which could cause heat issues during summer months. If fed too much too often maybe some weight gain, and molting problems. I believe the positives of BOSS out weight the negatives. Definitely feed with shells as they add necessary fiber and are easy to chew through for rabbits. Black oil sunflower seeds often stimulate your rabbit to gain weight due to their high fat content. This extra body weight helps rabbits maintain their body temperature in the winter, fall, and spring months. Your rabbit may not need to maintain as much body heat in the summer months, so consider cutting back the amount of black oil sunflower seeds your rabbit consumes during those months. https://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/11/25/feeding-rabbits-black-oil-sunflower-seeds/   Arthritis due to Bacterial Infection in Rabbits Septic Arthritis in Rabbits Arthritis is the general medical term for inflamed joints. Septic arthritis, on the other hand, is a condition that occurs when bacteria infects one or more of the rabbit’s joints. There is no age, breed, or gender predisposition for septic arthritis in rabbits. Symptoms and Types Sluggish behavior Lameness Anorexia Joint pain and swelling Warmth emanating from the joints Decreased range of motion Signs of infection (e.g., urinary tract infection or dental disease) Causes Pyogenic bacteria causes septic arthritis. There are many types of pyogenic bacteria, including staphylococci, pasteurella, and anaerobic bacteria (which can survive without oxygen). These bacteria may lead to an infection in the body and can also migrate to the joints, where they cause septic arthritis. There are some characteristics that may put an animal at higher risk for developing septic arthritis. These include long-term (chronic) cases of bacterial infection, traumatic injuries to the joints, and immunosuppressive disorders (immune system does not function properly). Some other sources of infection may include dental disease, an infection of the upper respiratory tract, or a wound. Diagnosis A rabbit with a history of upper respiratory tract infection, dental disease, or previous traumatic wound – such as bite wound – may suggest septic arthritis. If septic arthritis is suspected, a number of tests can be done by the veterinarian. An analysis of fluid taken from around the joints (synovial fluid analysis) may reveal characteristics of septic arthritis, such as an increased volume of fluid or the presence of bacteria. These fluid samples are submitted for testing so the type of bacterium may be pinpointed and treated accordingly. Alternate tests include X-rays and a urine analysis. Treatment When treating the rabbits, it is essential to treat the primary cause in order to cure septic arthritis. In most cases, antibiotics are prescribed to fight the infectious agent, although sometimes surgery is required. Living and Management There are a few things you can do to make your rabbit more comfortable and improve its condition. Soft bedding, for instance, can help increase the time of recovery from surgery. And activity should be restricted until the pet's symptoms have resolved. It is also essential to ensure that the rabbit is eating throughout recovery; offer fresh foods such as moist greens and good-quality grass hay. If the veterinarian prescribes medication, follow the instructions carefully. In particular, antibiotics are generally administered long-term. There is also a danger of residual degenerative joint disease -- a chronic condition that causes the cartilage surrounding the joints to deteriorate – as a result of septic arthritis. Prevention Because of the many causes which lead to septic arthritis in rabbits, listing all the preventative measures would be impossible. However, it would be wise to keep the rabbit safe and away from potentially dangerous situations to avoid wounds; also, clean its cage regularly. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/musculoskeletal/c_rb_arthritis_septic   © Copyrighted

The hosts walk through best practices for working with marketing, creative, and media buying agencies for your attraction.NEWS/Quick-Takes:Physical products are more valuable than digital products - https://www.adweek.com/brand-marketing/how-can-marketers-deal-with-an-oversaturated-digital-space-turn-back-to-physical-products/ Expansion of Dollywood: “The "new land," a $37 million investment, was the theme park's largest capital investment ever.”https://www.wbir.com/article/news/local/dolly-parton-announces-plans-for-new-dollywood-area-set-to-open-in-2019/51-580078465Snapchat Story Ads - https://forbusiness.snapchat.com/blog/introducing-story-ads-a-new-way-to-showcase-your-brand-or-product-in-discover/ “With one tap, Snapchatters can jump into a collection of 3-20 Snaps and dive deeper into your new fashion collection, movie release, suite of products, and more.”Main Topic:Ad Agencies - Help businesses execute marketing strategies and they range from full service to boutique. Think of them as an extension to your marketing department, which differs from contractors because they have support systems in place. Full-Service, Creative vs. Consultant vs. Media Buying vs. Smaller Specialities (Social Media, PR, etc.)Pros: They help reduce cost because you get the benefit of their expertise without needing to hire. Additionally, they provide an infrastructure for those that do not want to manage a piecemeal team. It’s a benefit for smaller companies until you’re large enough to make your own worth it (Disney). For example, Universal uses multiple agencies for different campaigns.Advice:Try to avoid lengthy contracts. Agencies try to get you to sign a longer contract, but try to take it project by project.Costly retainers. Retainers can be high, and be aware that an agency has many clients; they’re not always working on your attraction.Some will charge an hourly wage and others charge a fee on top of the spend. Example, for $10,000 spent on Google ads, they will take 10% added on top. The agency manages the ads so you don’t have to worry.Craft your RFP and outline exactly what you need.What’s campaign distribution?What specifically do you need?Sit down with at least 5-10 agencies; treat this like hiring employees (both in terms of testing and in terms of cultural fit).It’s OK to wait if you don't find a good fit.There are three broad functions to cover: Media Buy/Placement, Campaign Strategy, and Creative. Wrap-Up:Free Subscription to Seasonal Entertainment Source: http://seasonalentertainmentsource.com

The hosts walk through best practices for working with marketing, creative, and media buying agencies for your attraction. NEWS/Quick-Takes: Physical products are more valuable than digital products - https://www.adweek.com/brand-marketing/how-can-marketers-deal-with-an-oversaturated-digital-space-turn-back-to-physical-products/ Expansion of Dollywood: “The "new land," a $37 million investment, was the theme park's largest capital investment ever.” https://www.wbir.com/article/news/local/dolly-parton-announces-plans-for-new-dollywood-area-set-to-open-in-2019/51-580078465 Snapchat Story Ads - https://forbusiness.snapchat.com/blog/introducing-story-ads-a-new-way-to-showcase-your-brand-or-product-in-discover/ “With one tap, Snapchatters can jump into a collection of 3-20 Snaps and dive deeper into your new fashion collection, movie release, suite of products, and more.” Main Topic: Ad Agencies - Help businesses execute marketing strategies and they range from full service to boutique. Think of them as an extension to your marketing department, which differs from contractors because they have support systems in place. Full-Service, Creative vs. Consultant vs. Media Buying vs. Smaller Specialities (Social Media, PR, etc.) Pros: They help reduce cost because you get the benefit of their expertise without needing to hire. Additionally, they provide an infrastructure for those that do not want to manage a piecemeal team. It’s a benefit for smaller companies until you’re large enough to make your own worth it (Disney). For example, Universal uses multiple agencies for different campaigns. Advice: Try to avoid lengthy contracts. Agencies try to get you to sign a longer contract, but try to take it project by project. Costly retainers. Retainers can be high, and be aware that an agency has many clients; they’re not always working on your attraction. Some will charge an hourly wage and others charge a fee on top of the spend. Example, for $10,000 spent on Google ads, they will take 10% added on top. The agency manages the ads so you don’t have to worry. Craft your RFP and outline exactly what you need. What’s campaign distribution? What specifically do you need? Sit down with at least 5-10 agencies; treat this like hiring employees (both in terms of testing and in terms of cultural fit). It’s OK to wait if you don't find a good fit. There are three broad functions to cover: Media Buy/Placement, Campaign Strategy, and Creative. Wrap-Up: Free Subscription to Seasonal Entertainment Source: http://seasonalentertainmentsource.com

BWD #48: Esteemed All-Father and local shaman Craig Hanson (PLAY EPISODE) Esteemed all-father and local shaman Craig Hanson and I talk about: The unsettling ambiguity of dating and picking up girls in bars, as well as Craig’s online dating success story (he married her!) The pros and cons of having kids. Pros: They might be the next Bill Gates? Cons: They might probably be shitty. Finding porn in the woods How awful the South is Kissing dudes, and eating bugs Ian’s desire to be killed by a falling grand piano We also answer three of our listeners’ questions: Charles Hickey: If you had to choose one, would it be long and thin or short and thick? Matthew Wilson: You’re going to the moon for a year and can only bring one personal object. What do you bring? Luke Walker: If you were a mad geneticist and could alter the DNA of your child with one animal trait knowing that the child would have to attend public schools with whatever freakishness resulted, within the laws of physics and the natural world, what would it be and why? Remember to like our Facebook page and subscribe to us on iTunes.