Podcasts about outhouses

Show ThemesIn this episode you will learn how to be thankful for gifts and about basic economic principlesShow NotesJames broke the bathroomCatherine reverts to a prehistoric kitchenGarbage disposals are stupidPlumbing WorldThe horror of a free BanksyPanic GooglingWork with the shmuck"Valentine's day mascara""What is art?"Banksy SeagullCatherine drowning in Trump shitstormTrump has turned his back on the foundation of US economic might - the fallout will be messy - BBCTrump hates income taxHorses and outhouses, is that what you want?Bananas in the gas tankBush's fast food manufacturing"This reflects America's political choices"Freight train of prosperityMy cow for your daughter?Chihuahua Deficit"no one has any idea when they don't die" - Hank GreenTariff = VAT, Trump turned USA into Europe

I've spent years hiking, running, and living on public lands. I've slept on BLM land when I didn't have a home, hiked trails maintained by crews that just got laid off, and even worked for the federal government myself. So when I see massive funding cuts to the National Park Service, the BLM, and the U.S. Forest Service, I'm worried what's at stake—and it's not just a few overgrown trails.These cuts mean fewer rangers, fewer fire crews, fewer trail maintenance teams, and fewer resources to keep the places we love open and accessible. Roads to trailheads won't be graded. Bridges will rot. Outhouses will be locked. When trails go too long without maintenance, they don't just get rough—they disappear.And it's not just the land that's being affected. The people who dedicate their lives to public service, often choosing passion over a bigger paycheck, are being thrown out of work. Trail crews—many of which give young people a foot in the door to outdoor careers—are being gutted. The people who protect and preserve these spaces are being fired while the richest man in the world brags about playing with a chainsaw.If you care about trails, outdoor spaces, or even just the ability to drive to a trailhead without destroying your car, now's the time to pay attention. You don't have to be an activist, but you should at least know what's happening to the land that makes trail running, hiking, and adventuring possible. Because if we don't fight to keep these places funded and protected, we're going to wake up one day and realize they're gone.We are supported by Janji.com and GarageGrownGear.comChapters:00:00 The State of Public Lands and Job Cuts09:53 Community Engagement and Local Initiatives20:09 Trail Maintenance and Environmental Impact25:49 Lighthearted Moments and Listener Questions

This week on the pod…a holiday listener episode! First up, we hear a follow-up voicemail from Joe, the crab-loving beauty-pageant-goer. Then we hear some hilarious holiday stories, from a woman who still laughs at the thought that her neighbors might've thought they were going to eat her mom for Thanksgiving, a wild oyster casserole Christmas roadtrip, and a memorable Thanksgiving outhouse story from a woman who sounds like she's from another century! Plus, Seth and Josh answer a few questions! Follow Family Trips on YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok! Head over to our YouTube channel and hit subscribe so you never miss a new video episode! Support our sponsors:AirbnbThanks to Airbnb for their support of Family Trips.  Visit Airbnb.com today and book a guest favorite.  These are the most beloved homes on Airbnb. Public RecUpgrade your wardrobe instantly and save 20% off with the code TRIPS at https://www.publicrec.com/trips #publicrecpod #familytrips #sethmeyers #joshmeyers #listeners Executive Producers: Rob Holysz & Jeph Porter Creative Producer: Sam Skelton Coordinating Producer: Derek Johnson Mix & Master: Josh Windisch Episode Artwork: Analise Jorgensen

‼️ On Episode 85 I sit down with my mom to talk about the “good ol days”, outhouses teen marriage, and more…Plus tortillas! #podcast #hispanicheritagemonth #reels #history

It's episode 213 of The Cavalry! Johnny needs backup that every domicile should have a spare bathroom, even if it's an outhouse. Andrew needs backup that we should re-embrace talking on the phone. Enjoy! 

Special K and Ryan go off on a tangent about space portals and aliens. We also play some of your listener lines. Website

All of us should be aware that there are some places that you should not enter if you really want to be safe.

Ask Shelley 10-2-2023 …How did they clean Outhouses back in the day? …Can You Put a Chemical in Your Pool Water to Track Urine? …Why do so many garments shrink in the Dryer?

The third hour of the show begins with Annie, Ryan, and Brad discussing Sen. John Fetterman and why he is a prime example of the selfish nature of today's society.  Then Tricia joins the studio for a round of Annie are you OK?  The hour closes 10 reasons you might be a genius... how does Ryan stack up?  

In Housekeeping we talk about Outhouses before we get into Jack Parsons! We'll talk about his four names, prophetic birth, SUMMONING SATAN as a boy, his wives, Lodge Master Wilfred Smith, Hymn to Pan, attitude towards Communism, churches and the legal system. We'll discuss some of the sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll attitudes from the beatnik era and more!"I seem to be living in a nation that simply does not know what freedom is.” — John Whiteside ParsonsListen to Part 1 here: https://breakingsocialnorms.com/2023/05/23/jack-parsons-pt-1-strange-angel-crowleys-thelema-occult-rituals-more/FULL SHOW NOW UP AD-FREE with early access on Patreon.com/BreakingSocialNorms and Apple Podcast Premium; free feed gets it in two days!—You can now sign up for our commercial-free version of the show with a Patreon exclusive bonus show called “Morning Coffee w/ the Weishaupts” at Patreon.com/BreakingSocialNorms OR subscribe on the Apple Podcasts app to get all the same bonus “Morning Coffee” episodes AD-FREE with early access!-Check out the index of all supporter ad-free episodes here: https://www.patreon.com/posts/55009895-Follow Josie Weishaupt on IG for dogs, memes and show discussions: instagram.com/theweishaupts2 (*now under new management- Josie's running it and reading all the comments!)Want more?…—Sign up for the free email newsletter for updates at BreakingSocialNorms.com—Index of all previous episodes on free feed: https://breakingsocialnorms.com/2021/03/22/index-of-archived-episodes/—Leave a review or rating wherever you listen and we'll see what you've got to say!Follow us on the socials:-instagram.com/theweishaupts2/ Check out Isaac's conspiracy podcasts, merch, etc:-AllMyLinks.com/IsaacW-Conspiracy Theories & Unpopular Culture (on all podcast platforms or IlluminatiWatcher.com)-Isaac Weishaupt's book are all on Amazon and Audible; *author narrated audiobooks, get free first month Audible.com/IlluminatiThis show is part of the Spreaker Prime Network, if you are interested in advertising on this podcast, contact us at https://www.spreaker.com/show/4824851/advertisement

This week, the MennoBrarians chat sequels! We selected three sequels to books covered in earlier seasons of Just Plain Wrong, and share what happens next. Covered this episode: Tillie: Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Crime by Tamar Myers. This is the 2nd book in the PA Dutch Mystery series.  The first book was covered in Season 1, ep 17.Erin: Crimson Storm by Amy Patrick, the 2nd book in the Crimson Accord series featuring an Amish Vampire. We first met our Amish vampires in Season 2, ep 2.Abby: Clean Break by Kiera Andrews, the follow up to Forbidden Rumspringa which was covered in Season 2, ep 14.We chat favorite series, dramatic outhouse explosions, vampire pacifism, why you shouldn't assume an Amish Romance is safe for your church library and more. We always love hearing from listeners! You can reach us at plainwrongpod at gmail.com, or on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook. If you want to help support the podcast financially, please consider joining our Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/plainwrongpod or buying merch at TeePublic Follow us: Twitter: https://twitter.com/plainwrongpod Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plainwrongpod/ Website: http://plainwrongpod.com/ “Just Plain Wrong” is produced, written and edited by Erin Milanese, Abby Nafziger and Matilda Yoder. Our intro music is played by Erin, and the outro by Miriam Augsburger. Both are "arrangements" of the Doxology from the Mennonite Hymnal. Logo design by Ida Yoder Short. Canva design (used for Social Media posts in Season 4 and following) by Abigail Adams.

In weird news this week we find out that some people are terrible at their jobs, but most don't destroy century old outhouses. And no, this is not a Taco Bell induced toilet murder, we are talking accidently slamming on the gas in your car and destroying the monument... to poop... they you are taxed with protecting. Mondays, am I right??? Plus, Giants are in the news again. Were the real? Is it all a hoax? How big can a human really get? All that and more on the podcast not to destroy a bathroom, Hysteria 51! News Stories Mentioned: Special thanks Evil Mike!Outhouse Be Gone - https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-63304390?fbclid=IwAR0Od1IVr0XuNGFnetE2B9ju8kMh3sG9HCN-WK8QCQDotD16spnFlpn8iVk Giant Shenanigans - https://www.ancient-origins.net/news-history-archaeology/update-lost-city-giants-001139?fbclid=IwAR1wVoMnSjMOwnefWNeS_oU0kIS860rB76lBEevX9l_E2NjsvXeVpJt1nIM  Email us your favorite WEIRD news stories:weird@hysteria51.com Support the ShowGet exclusive content & perks as well as an ad and sponsor free experience at https://www.patreon.com/Hysteria51 from just $1See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

The Gardai have appealed to residents in the East area of Sligo Town to check their sheds, outhouses and gardens for any trace of missing 21 year old, Rodney Horan, who hasn't been seen since last Sunday. Sergeant Angela Cummins is also appealing for information on burglaries in Kinlough, Sligo and Drumshanbo on this week's On The Beat

Live stand up from Steven Harrison's 'Can't Be Bothered' Album Release Tour/ Recorded at the Lou Room in October 2022 (Baltimore, MD) by Wildcard Arts & Entertainment

The fabulous Jaimee joins Ross to discuss why public restrooms are so unpleasant.  Tangents include:  Roman bathrooms; the time before splinter free toilet paper; Toga stain; dangerous toilet plumes; steamer trunks.  Ross describes his ideal public restroom.Notes:https://www.history.com/news/toilet-paper-hygiene-ancient-rome-china#:~:text=Paper%20became%20widely%20available%20in,500%20sheets%20for%2050%20cents.https://ittn.ie/news/what-are-the-best-and-worst-public-toilets-in-the-world/https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/how-the-ancient-romans-went-to-the-bathroom-180979056/#:~:text=Despite%20the%20lack%20of%20toilet,to%20dip%20the%20sponges%20in.https://www.nytimes.com/2022/06/21/well/live/public-bathrooms-health-safety.htmlSupport the show

~Special Alert~ There is a technical blip early in the episode and we apologize. Don't turn it off because we have a great show for ya. We talk about everything from Chicken Coupons to Archeological Discoveries.

Chad is out of the studio, so Casey, Ryan, and Rebekah hold down the fort and entertain a plethora of topics. Enjoy expanding your knowledge on obscure laws, Antarctic postal opportunities, and if hot dogs are sandwiches. It's a fun episode and you don't want to miss!

Chad is out of the studio, so Casey, Ryan, and Rebekah hold down the fort and entertain a plethora of topics. Enjoy expanding your knowledge on obscure laws, Antarctic postal opportunities, and if hot dogs are sandwiches. It's a fun episode and you don't want to miss!

Chad is out of the studio, so Casey, Ryan, and Rebekah hold down the fort and entertain a plethora of topics. Enjoy expanding your knowledge on obscure laws, Antarctic postal opportunities, and if hot dogs are sandwiches. It's a fun episode and you don't want to miss!

In this episode of r/ProRevenge we see a group of kids perform some amazing pro revenge against a couple of adults that simply couldn't leave well enough alone. I've seen some pro revenge pranks in my time... But the ingenuity on display here should be applauded for sure!YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/reddxyDiscord: https://discord.gg/Sju7YckUWuTwitch: https://www.twitch.tv/daytondoesPayPal: https://www.paypal.me/daytondoesPatreon: http://patreon.com/daytondoesTwitter: http://www.twitter.com/daytondoesFacebook: https://www.facebook.com/ReddXD/Teespring: https://teespring.com/stores/reddx

Editor's note: The following story contains a derogatory term. Augustine “Augie” Garcia was born in St. Paul's west side in 1946. He lived in the West Side Flats until his family moved in 1959. By the time the neighborhood was torn down, Mexican immigrants had become one of the largest groups living in the West Side Flats. Despite the years, the memories of the West Side Flats as a vibrant and multiethnic community remain. Garcia is one of several gentlemen who regularly meet on Tuesday mornings at the Sunlight Restaurant in South St. Paul to talk and reminisce. The men are now in their 70s, 80s and 90s, but to look at them, you would be hard-pressed to guess their real ages.  Growing up in the West Side Flats, they knew of each other and decades later they would come together through mutual acquaintances. “The West Side Flats was a melting pot as far as I was concerned,” Garcia said. The West Side Flats was also home to other immigrants. Russian Jews began settling there in the 1880s. Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society Aerial view of the Flats, 1953, showing Robert, Wabasha, and railroad bridges and American Hoist and Derrick facilities. He also was quick to point out that he isn't that Augie Garcia. Courtesy of Minnesota Historical Society Musician Augie Garcia plays his guitar in 1954. The other Augie Garcia, who was also from the West Side Flats, is the man who came to be known as the godfather of Minnesota rock-and-roll. Augie Garcia died in 1999. But he is perhaps best-remembered for nearly upstaging Elvis Presley. In 1956, Elvis performed at the St. Paul Auditorium and the Augie Garcia Quintet was the opening act. News reports recount that Garcia whipped the crowd into such a frenzy that Elvis' manager had him pulled off the stage. Despite the passing years, Nick Arenas, who is in his 90s, still recalls the address where he grew up and the spot of the nearby businesses. “I lived at 167 Fairfield, I moved three times in the same block. On the corner of Fairfield and Eva was the New Ray Theater. And kitty corner to that was Our Lady of Guadalupe Church. Across the street from the theater was the Coronado Café,” Arenas said. Arenas still has fond memories of the Neighborhood House. It was founded in 1897 by women from the Mount Zion Temple. It initially opened to help Russian Jewish immigrants. Later it would be a place of assistance for all immigrants. The West Side Flats was its home for its first 65 years. “They had a woodshop downstairs in the basement of the Neighborhood House. I built my first pair of skis there,” Arenas said. Garcia said his family lived on State Street before leaving the Flats in 1959. His grandfather lived on Robertson until leaving a couple years later. “But there was only two houses on the block — my grandfather's house and the people who lived across the street,” Garcia said. Gallery Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society Our Lady of Guadalupe Church stood at 186 East Fairfield. Photo taken 1951. Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society St. Paul Hebrew Institute on Kentucky Street, 1921. Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society Lafayette School was on the corner of Kentucky and Fenton. It was the only public school in the Flats in 1921. Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society Students at Casa Coronado Restaurant, 154 East Fairfield, 1947. He also recalled going to Mass at Our Lady of Guadalupe on Sundays; and then stopping at the Jewish bakery. They'd buy horns and bagels and then go to his grandfather's to eat. “That's where I also learned how to eat rye bread and pumpernickel. But I did like bagels. And I was having bagels at a young age where most of the time people my age didn't know what a bagel was,” Garcia said. Frank Cruz, who is in his late 80s, also grew up and lived in the West Side Flats until they were forced to move. Cruz acknowledges some of the not-so-good memories. He doesn't shy away from talking about the discrimination Mexicans faced. Cruz recalled being 5, 6, 7 years old and how he and his siblings would head across the Robert Street bridge with a wagon in tow. They'd go to the warehouses to collect scrap metal. He said that on their way back down, people from the upper part of town would call them names. “They'd always be criticizing us to go back to Mexico, ‘wetbacks,' this and that, always had different name calling. But like you say, sticks and stones will break your bones, but words aren't going to hurt. But they do stick to your head,” Cruz said. The West Side Flats was not the only place where Mexican immigrants and other newcomers settled. Swede Hollow — as its name implies — was settled by Swedish immigrants in the 1850s. Both Swede Hollow and the West Side Flats welcomed immigrant newcomers during the same time period. Lena Norrman, a senior lecturer in Swedish at the University of Minnesota, has studied Swede Hollow. She said not much is written about Swede Hollow because people were working hard to simply survive. And they didn't have time to write down their memories, Norrman said. “It was difficult to find work at the time, especially for the first generation not knowing any English and trying to get into the labor market. So these are not the people who would write down the history,” she said. Courtesy of Minnesota Historical Society Swede Hollow, as it appeared about a century ago. The homes that made up Swede Hollow were shacks. There were no sewage lines. Outhouses were built over the creek. The early immigrants who settled in Swede Hollow had one goal, said Norrman. “The game was to move up to come to the street level. Because if you made it to the street level, then you could disappear into Minneapolis. So, if you started at the very bottom of the creek, that was the worst place ever to live,” Norrman said. In its nearly 100 years welcoming immigrants, Swede Hollow never had a sewer system. Citing unsanitary conditions, the city of St. Paul ordered the settlement to be burned down in 1956. Burning Swede Hollow Why an immigrant community deliberately went up in flames Courtesy of Minnesota Historical Society The burning of Swede Hollow in St. Paul, as photographed by the St. Paul Dispatch & Pioneer Press. Back across the river, residents of the West Side Flats would also face displacement. The community was built in a low-lying area that was prone to flooding. The city of St. Paul would eventually use this as a reason to demolish the neighborhood. A devastating flood hit the area in 1952. In 1956, the city announced it would build Riverview Industrial Park.  By 1962 the last families had left the West Side Flats. And to protect that industrial park, the city built a flood wall. Cruz has bitter memories about how much — or rather how little — the city paid families for their homes.  “They cheated you. The most people were getting was $6,000, 7,000 for their home,” Cruz said. Cruz said his brother fought that low-ball price. He recalled how his brother would see houses like his. He'd knock on the door and ask the homeowner the house's value. He'd also take a photo. His brother eventually went to court, Cruz said.  “The judge looks at him. He said, ‘How much do you want to give you?' $6,000. And the judge looked at him he says no, you give him $13,000,” Cruz said. There was a reason it wasn't higher, he said. “And the only reason he didn't go more because the city was already saying the reason they're chasing us out of here,” Cruz said. “It's because we live in wetland. It was all wet and all of a sudden 100 years later it's wetland.” Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society Tennessee Street in West Side Flats seen during a flood in 1952. What should we cover next? Pass the Mic Vicki Adame covers Minnesota's Latino communities for MPR News via Report for America, a national service program that places journalists into local newsrooms to report on undercovered issues and communities.

A quick tale of the ingenuity and problem-solving skills of early high-country dwelling Coloradans and how they made doo in deep snow.

Boyz chopping it up

Virtual solo cup cheers from Jack ‘BOSSMAN' Leverentz from 10,000 Takes podcast in Minnesota who joins EPIC episode of #BadSignal ahead of TNF and local #Skol Vikings vs. Steelers (+3). Before we breakdown the game, Jack explains ‘What Is Minnesota nice?' Outhouses in the NFL Midwest (03:33), What's the future for the Vikings Big 3 (05:11) b/c Mike Zimmer is Minnesota nice, but he might have to go (10:48). Who's the NFC's best? (13:58), Bills Mafia has an open invite to the 10K Animal house (17:26). BEER SNAKES, BEER SNAKES + the WILD (18:00), Christmas tree farm shopping (23:18), Seven dworfs of the house (26:35), What a Minnesota (bing-bong) parlay consists of (33:07). Only 35 minutes in to preview #Vikings vs. Steelers TNF Week 14. Best bets of the night, Is Tom Brady on the INSIDE of the betting world? (39:42) No one should be surprised if Patriots game plan doesn't change vs. Bills (44:22)….. Jack, you really Steve Belichick? (45:15), 65M dollar QBs coming soon in 2023 (48:16), and finally a Hockey Terms QUIZ! (52:40). #BadSignal is presented by BettorEdge. Use code FALLON $10 off first order: bettoredge.com/fallon.

What does the Bible say about the end of the world? Are we living at the end of time? Is humanity facing a tremendous crisis just ahead? If so, how should we prepare for what comes next? Join host Tim Rumsey as he explains the Bible's critically important answers to these questions.

Episode: 2121 Reading about domestic mechanics in 1918 -- how soon we forget.  Today, how soon we forget.

The ranger, maverick, thief, healer and wizard are all well known, easily recognisable archetypes in a basic fantasy or sci-fi team. We're all familiar with the leader, the loner, the brains and the heart in a team-up. But there's one character who just doesn't get as much attention despite often literally holding a group together. This week, the dragons take a look at the 'tank', muscle or powerpack character. What exactly do they add to a team in sff? What storylines exploit their skill set best and how can you avoid over powering them?  On the slab this week: The Justice League, Firefly, Farscape, The Avengers and many more.   Title music: Ecstasy by Smiling Cynic

Fans of this sport are the angriest sports fans on the internet. A lady in New York discovered a secret room in her home. Concerts are starting to lineup beginning this summer. Home remodeling leads to divorce. Plus, New Music Friday, open bathrooms, outhouses, mask mandates, Sarah Silverman and more!

What made the internet angry this week?Derek Furtney stopped by this week to take over Derek duties since the usual Derek is indisposed. The Gender Neutral Potato Head is a whole big annoying thing about nothing. The guys talk about how terrifying it would be to be bitten by a bear in an outhouse. The guys make the smoothest transition ever to move from talking about bears to discussing Elon Musk. Dale explains what the term Red Pill means… again. The guys talk about their favorite conspiracies. Dale's is interdimensional pedoephile aliens and Derek's is Beyonce got pregnant when she was 13 and Beyonce's mom raised Solange like she was her sister. That awkward feeling when a person who creates works of art is actually a piece of shit, starring Woody Allen. I heart Huckabees is a great movie. Twitter superfollows are something neither of us will be involved in. What ever happened to Google+Find us:Youtube: www.youtube.com/channel/UC8pWFBfrmKh-0xl47DVUNVQWeb: www.outragefactory.comReddit: r/OutragefactorypodTwitter: @OutrageFactPodFacebook; www.facebook.com/outragefactpodEmail: Outragefactpod@gmail.comCheck out our redbubble swag https://www.redbubble.com/shop/ap/49661850

This morning we're going to spin out something brand new to our listeners and gather feedback on a poll from within Facebook. Please go and vote if you'd like to keep Fun Fact Saturday! >> Facebook Link This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis: Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp Support this podcast

https://www.kiro7.com/news/trending/something-bit-me-alaska-woman-using-outhouse-attacked-by-bear/WKJFHFN3RJA2NA7XS66IM4G6PA/ https://twitter.com/ericmetaxas/status/1362775780514758660?s=20 https://www.nytimes.com/2021/02/19/us/politics/ted-cruz-mexico.html

Kimmer walking like an old man? Liberals attempt to boycott Publix, Side-Piece step daughter reaping benefits, BLM nominated for Nobel Peace prize - this is not a joke, #Bidenlied, NFL quarterback trade, Soccer stars ridiculous contract, silver alert, Psaki gonna circle back, Kris Kristofferson hanging it up, President stupid is really stupid, Outhouses, Are you country test and other fun topics on today’s Kimmer-castSupport the show (http://Patreon.com/KimmerShow)

Katie Law Back In Studio: A new episode of Random Truths including the truth of Outhouses. Plus a new episode of Katie's Rapid Fire Questions.

Jess has been with Double U for almost 4 years now and is a huge part of what makes the DU machine run. Its not often you get second chances, but when you do there is usually a good story to go with it...  Jess and Buddy recall the time DU accidentally denied Jess’ job application. Buddy and Jimmy swap stories of their early years hunting and influential Houndsman in their life, “Doc” Sowa.  Jimmy and Buddy paint a picture of Doc that will have you laughing out loud. They also talk of Double U Hunting Supply moving shop, Outhouses and more! Thanks for being such good sports Jess and Jimmy!

On this week’s Ball & Chain Podcast, Rebecca and Steve discuss their dogs' late night pity tinkles and the Oxford comma. Rebecca shares a story from their wedding day with their oldest daughter. While Steve has two beer cans puncture and spray the back of his car. All that plus Viewer Mail on the 144th edition of the Ball & Chain Podcast.

Join Piper Dawes as she talks with Christopher Parr, the director of the Munchausen Institute for Totally Real Research, about mass martial arts, a chimpanzee church, a possessed potty, and the best Batman film never made.

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I received this link from a subscriber, to share with you: Generation 5G & The Sound Of Silence: https://youtu.be/LrOtUL3HxkY -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PATREON SUBSCRIPTIONS https://www.patreon.com/merkabacarpet/membership 1. A MORE PERSONAL JOURNEY - Powerful,  group healing session and podcast, sharing of some of my more personal perspectives, insights and experiences on this journey, as we navigate these energy shifts together. Also incl. the Life Coach recordings to help you step out of the old 3D slave paradigm and into life 2.0, as a creator. 2. QUANTUM HEALING - Adina and Tony do a 20 min. personal, quantum-healing session for you, each month, and give you our channelled feedback, via email. Includes the benefits of the above, weekly Podcast and group healing session, "A More Personal Journey". 3. SKYPE - For those who want to offer more support, thank you and in return I can offer Skype sessions as needed, to help you on your journey. Includes the benefits of the above, weekly podcast and group healing sessions, "A More Personal Journey". HEALING FEEDBACK: https://merkabacarpet.wordpress.com/healing-energy-feedback/ ------------------------------------------------------- MERKABA CARPET SERVICES ------------------------------------------------------- SERVICES 1. Quantum healing sessions 2. 1-on-1 Skype sessions 3. Channelled sketch/insight 4. Vintage Store 5. Make a donation 6. Email Tony https://merkabacarpet.wordpress.com/contact/ ------------------------------------------------------- SOCIAL MEDIA Youtube https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCLpaP44rKY-PABx09k688qg Bitchute https://www.bitchute.com/channel/yQnTbL6nL3ma/ ------------------------------------------------------- PODCASTS Anchor.FM, Spotify, Breaker, Google, RadioPublic, PocketCasts, Overcast, Apple... Podcast links are here: https://merkabacarpet.wordpress.com/contact/ ABOUT MERKABA CARPET Quanum healing, multidimensional reality, awakening, ascension, quantum physics, dark night of the soul, higher self, love, frequency of consciousness and more WEBSITE https://merkabacarpet.wordpress.com/

In Episode 61, we discuss the Kopp sisters, who went to bat with the Big Man in Town and came out on top, and some of the first influential women magicians, Adelaide 'The Queen of Magic' and Minerva 'The Queen of Mystery'. Betches who stand their ground!

Warning: We say "crap" more than once in this episode. We're not proud of it, but it was really hard not to. This is our first submitted topic and it was fun... and sort of gross, but still very interesting! We hope you enjoy! --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/thebrainsquadpodcast/support

Larry Olson and Karol Baer, known by many as Dakota Road, have a long history of fostering community in song at the camps of Lutherans Outdoors. Their stories begin with Karol as a camper at Klein Ranch and Larry as a camp counselor at NeSoDak, and the rest is history. Camps and congregations throughout the state and the world are familiar with their music. It is always a delight to connect around the table or campfire with Larry and Karol. Enjoy this episode of the LO Down. Support the show (http://losd.org/donate)

This fun episode features a very special guest - my Aunt Marguerite. Her first time to our house was the day before my mom and Bills wedding. Talk about culture shock when she arrived in the middle of the night to a small cabin high in the mountains. This was the first of so many visits from her and her family over the years. I love her so much and am grateful she took to time to talk about her adventure. The letter mentioned in the episode is online at www.ourunusuallife.com and on Instagram. The sound is a little off as we continue to try to perfect the recording.

The Streak Is Alive: We keep the streak alive with some celebratory messages post 600! Sarah’s Hubby: We check back in on the life of Sarah’s Hubby as he gives us a tour of his new shotgun house. Sad Or No?: Is Sarah’s Hubby a sad story or a story of perseverance and triumph! SLAVERY!, YOU’RE WELCOME!, MR. SHOW!, DAMN IT FEELS GOOD TO BE A GANGSTER!, GETO BOYS!, SPEAKING IN TONGUES!, YAHWEH!, ABORTIONS!, JEHOVAH JIREH!, PUSSY POPPING JIM!, PUSSY THAT POP!, SUCK THAT BABY’S DICK!, CELEBRATION MESSAGES!, JO!, JAY!, OUIJA BOARD!, BAJA BLAST!, COMMUNITY!, FOLLOWING!, SARAH’S HUBBY!, REAL DOLL!, ILLINOIS!, YOUTUBE!, NEW HOME!, DOLL REPAIR!, SQUALOR!, 8 TRACK!, DIRTY!, EVICTED!, JASON’S HOUSE!, HELL HOLE!, EXPENSIVE AUTO LOAN!, PAYMENT!, UBER!, SQUATTER’S RIGHTS!, TRUMANN ARKANSAS!, BOUGHT PROPERTIES!, FIX UP!, SHOTGUN HOUSE!, HANDY MAN!, CONTRACT!, SCAMMED!, STROKE!, JUNK!, CABLES!, LADDER!, DEAD BODY!, TOILET!, TUB!, SCREAMING GHOST!, DEAD TIME!, BUGS!, CRICKETS!, HEARTBEAT!, NEVER RENTING AGAIN!, BOYFRIEND MATERIAL!, PORCH DECK!, HOLE!, FOUNDATION!, CONCRETE BLOCKS!, WHY WHY WHY!, NO!, OUTHOUSES!, BANNED!, JUNK!, TRASH!, DO IT BY YOURSELF!, PROGRESS!, AUTISM SPECTRUM!, ASPIES!, H3!, EMOTIONS!, COST OF A DOLL!, FLESHLIGHT!, CUTEST LITTLE THING!, HILA KLEIN!, TRUST ISSUES!, SEXUAL HARASSMENT!, THAT PLACE SUCKED! CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD JIM AND THEM #605 Part 2 RIGHT HERE!

Mountaineer Ľubomír Mäkký of the hiking.sk website joins Peter in this week’s Spectacular Slovakia episode to explain why it is worth walking up to mountain huts in the High Tatras. Learn more about some cosy mountain huts and must-do (and manageable)hikes in the mountains on this week's episode. Photo: Chata pri Zelenom plese/Hut by the Green Lake (TASR)

Episode 13 is here! We welcome Kyle to the NPCs this week! In this episode we go over a lot of cloud gaming news, RDR2 is coming to PC, and of course this week's top 10 list: Best Nintendo Games! Note from Travis: We experienced some kind of issue with audio in the last 10-15 minutes of recording, and our attempts to fix the issue were futile. Please make sure to drop your volume down during that time. We'll do a double check of our equipment prior to recording Ep. 14 to make sure this is addressed. Thanks! Intro: Song: Wreak Havoc - Axtasia Music provided by Ninety9Lives Video: youtu.be/Oa_qvIZV_9E Download: 99l.tv/wreakhavocYU Outro: Song: Martini on the Rocks - Finesu Music provided by Ninety9Lives Video: https://youtu.be/5GufzQRq5aE Download: http://99l.tv/martiniontherocksYU --- Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/the-npcs-podcast/support

Season 3, EP 23: WARNING: This podcast contains strong language and mature content. On this episode of The Glass Case of Emotion podcast, Ryan, Kim and Chuck talk about the race at Daytona, USA Women's world championship and pooping in a hole. 

05-29-19 Hour 1 Guest: Congressman Thomas Massie.

Podcast #4 on #2. Pt. 4 of the Turd Trilogy. SPECIAL GUEST DWIGHT GOFF!!!!! Sources: https://www.lancasterfarming.com/pondering-the-privy-a-history-of-outhouses/article_3f416eae-d0df-5d7f-9e70-3fcfb72a110a.html Credit: https://www.purple-planet.com

Hayes and Zuccarello trade stuff. Hockey movies. Food. Outhouses. How to fix the defense in two days. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Free agency and the Rangers. Life without Panarin? Quinn putting character before production. Outhouses, like, way too much outhouse talk. NHLe for women. All Star game Hank. Trade rumors, and more! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.     Last weekend we went to see the Charlottesville Symphony perform Tchaikovsky's 5th, and it was a wonderful performance. I also spent the weekend winterizing my Chickens, Ducks, and Rabbits which is this weeks topic. I know this topic is late for many in the United States, but here in Virginia, we are just getting down to freezing temperatures at night. I hope that you all that celebrate Thanksgiving had a great Thanksgiving. On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving we planned to traveled to North Carolina, but we had two flat tires on the way. One in Lynchburgh, and a second flat about 50 miles later in Danville Virginia. Both were broken tire valve stems. We had the car towed to a Walmart, and luckily the tire center was open on Thanksgiving for a few hours, and they could make the tire repairs so that we could continue on our way. We stayed in North Carolina at a wonderful bed and breakfast called the Dailey Retreat. I highly recommend if you are looking for a bed and breakfast in Greensboro that you check out the Dailey retreat. Our host Jean was very friendly and helpful, especially with accommodating us with a challenging check in. https://www.daileyrenewalretreat.net/ The bed and breakfast was very clean, and the organic breakfasts were delicious! This is the first year that we had a Thanksgiving meal in a restaurant on Thanksgiving. I think I prefer a home cooked meal. We traveled to Greensboro, North Carolina to see a Canadian band "The Dead South" perform on Black Friday, and there performance was outstanding! And now enough about the past week or so, and on with the topic this week. Preparing rabbits for winter - Caring for your rabbits in cold weather The days are getting shorter and shorter…winter is coming! Now is the time to make your winter preparations so your rabbits can stay cozy & dry all winter long. If you own a rabbit hutch and keep your furry friends outdoors year round, when the cold temperatures and biting winds of winter come, you will have to do something to protect them. Winter time when it’s cold can be very hard on rabbits. By cold, we mean if the temperature falls below zero. Keeping your rabbits warm is important. A hutch is a fine outdoor environment for rabbits, and with a few seasonal modifications, your rabbits will not only survive but will thrive during the cold winter months. Remember, wild rabbits survive over the winter all the time, so there's no reason that your domesticated ones shouldn't as well. In the wild they would live in underground burrows where the temperature changes slightly between the summer and winter months. Raising them above ground means they are subjected to extreme temperature changes. For this reason, we need to help them stay warm and dry. Rabbits are one of the more cold resistant backyard animals, but they still need a little extra care when it dips below freezing. Although I live in Central Virginia, we usually get a few storms of icy and snowy weather in the winter. If you live in a colder area, rabbits could be a very good livestock choice for you, as bunnies are pretty easy to take care of in the cold. The one caveat is if it gets super cold, (as in ten degrees below) their ears can get frostbite. If your area gets that cold, you will need a more robust shelter or a rabbit barn for your rabbits in winter more than a basic outdoor hutch or colony. It is also absolutely essential that the rabbits have already spent the entire fall outdoors before attempting to leave them outside in the winter. The reason for this is the winter fur. Without the exposure to the changes of the seasons, rabbits will not have enough winter fur to make it through the colder season outside. In general, rabbits are better equipped to deal with the cold than the extreme summer heat. Rabbits are most comfortable with temperatures in the low- to mid-60’s. But they will usually be just fine with very little interaction from us in temperatures as low as 20°F. Rabbits, like many other animals, put on thick winter coats as cooler temperatures approach and may need extra brushing during the winter due to their thicker coats. Rabbits that are pregnant, old, and/or sick should ideally not be left outside over the winter months. Also, not every rabbit breed grows a sufficient amount of winter fur. Lionheads and other dwarf rabbits, for example, need to come indoors when the temperatures get below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, or live in a very well insulated and possibly heated large house. Sadly, some people won’t go out in the bad weather to care for their rabbits so they get neglected. Regardless of the weather, your rabbits should be cared for. Every rabbit set up is different, but we have some suggestions to get ready for winter! Here are some important things to think about before those cold and brutal days: Take Precautions Before the Onset of Winter 1. Shelter and Protection Housing can be evaluated with a few factors: ventilation, size, material, temperature, and protection. Ventilation is the process of moving air above and below the cage to decrease temperature and ammonia odor, which can be damaging to a rabbit’s respiratory system. This can be accomplished naturally or mechanically, but you must ensure that direct drafts are not imposed on the rabbits. The ideal temperature for an adult rabbit’s environment is 45–70 degrees Fahrenheit. Housing for rabbits can be maintained either inside or outside a physical structure. Outside facilities require that the rabbits be protected from the weather and predators. There are numerous materials that can be utilized to build rabbit cages; however, remember that rabbits are gnawers, meaning they will eat building materials. The material used will depend on whether you have an inside wire cage or an outside cage. The outside cage typically includes (three) plywood or pressed board (sidewalls) and roof to provide necessary protection for the rabbits. Or you may have a hanging cage rack system that is covered. Inside cages will usually be constructed from galvanized welded wire. Outside housing The list is endless to what people are doing this day and age to provide their bunnies with the most luxurious suitable accommodation. ⦁ Outhouses converted to bunny homes with outside run attached. ⦁ Hutches placed within an aviary ⦁ Dog kennels with the runs attached (these come in all shapes and sizes). ⦁ Sheds (wooden ones only) Plastic or metal ones can get too hot. ⦁ If you are using a hutch only, then make sure it is a decent size for the breed, and they will need an additional area for their exercise time. Building your own enclosure Remember the bigger the better for your bunny and for you to as it will be easier to clean out and also you will get so much more entertainment watching your rabbits skip and run at great speeds. Plywood and pine are safe woods. Most hutch roofs are made from marine plywood covered in roofing felt. Roofs with a slight slope, to prevent sitting water, will have a longer lifespan than flat roofs. Galvanized wire no bigger than 1 inch by half inch should be size of squares. Never use wiring with large squares as rats and weasels could get in or cats/foxes could injure your bunny through these gaps. Prime welded wire mesh is best. Predator proofing It is extremely important that all enclosures are made predator proof. ⦁ You need to place your rabbits accommodation on cement slabs to avoid a fox digging in or a rabbit digging out. ⦁ Make sure doors are secure with bolts at the top and bottom for extra security. ⦁ Always provide hideouts – safe places to hide when they get spooked or feel threatened ⦁ Tunnels are good for hide outs. ⦁ Place boards at the front of your enclosure to add extra privacy & to help stop your rabbit getting easily spooked. Weather proofing It is essential especially with certain types of enclosures. You need to protect them from the wind, rain and strong sunlight. Covers can be bought for standard size hutches but can be costly. Corrugated plastic sheeting is a good way to protect from rain and is excellent for roofing. Just watch the clear plastic in the summer as this could heat your enclosure up like a green house very quickly. Place sun reflectors underneath to help stop this. Use bubble wrap or plastic sheeting like builders sheets or plastic dust sheets or tarpaulin for protection from wind and rain. Attach to a piece of wood at the top and hook this to the cage to create your own little roller blind. Or by adding some wooden panels to each side of your enclosure and making them an inch wider than the enclosure allows you to have something to attach the bubble wrap or plastic sheeting to. Metal clips keep it in place very securely when it is very windy. Always leave gaps for air flow. Cover a sheet of wood, wider than the accommodation itself, with felt roofing and place on top of enclosures for added protection. Keep weighted down with bricks or slabs. Large beach mats or windbreakers are ideal for protection Venetian blinds or cane/bamboo blinds are another option. Attach bubble wrap to the inside of them in the winter for added protection Do not use fabric that can get damp as this will draw the heat out of the hutch. If large enclosures like sheds/playhouses have gaps around the top area you can stuff them with bubble wrap to stop drafts. Just make sure its out of reach of your rabbits. Location of the hutch Move your rabbit hutch to a place that is protected from the prevailing winter winds. Cold wind will freeze a rabbit far faster than the ambient temperature alone. The cage should be located in a sheltered area that affords protection from the wind, especially north winds. It should have a roof of some kind (many rabbit owners prefer roofing tin since it cannot be chewed) and, depending on the kind of shelter, will likely need protection on the sides. Wooden hutches with wire bottoms and wire fronts are great for cold weather because they offer protection on the top and three sides, though these also run the risk of being chewed by a bored rabbit. For maximum protection, a heavy canvas cover can be made for the front of the cage that will be rolled up during nice weather, but that can be put into place during wind, storms, and at night. Foremost of all considerations during cold weather is to keep your pet rabbit dry. Most breeds of rabbits have thick coats which are exceptional insulators against the weather, but if water reaches their skin they will be unable to stay warm. Keeping the animal safe from precipitation will remove the largest of these risks, but there are still others. Water dishes should be securely attached to the side of the cage so that the rabbit can not accidentally knock it over. Ideally, this dish will also be up off of the cage floor so that the rabbit does not run the risk of stepping in it. Wire-bottomed cages that will not allow waste or spilled food and water to sit within reach of the rabbit are ideal for staying clean and dry. This allows all waste to fall straight through the bars and get completely out of the cage. You may already keep your rabbits' hutch in a shed, garage or outbuilding year round, but if you do not, it is worth considering if you can do this over the winter months in order to make caring for them in the cold a little easier. Remember if you are planning to keep the hutch in a garage, that you should not use the same one that you park your car in as rabbits are extremely sensitive to the carbon monoxide and other toxins present in exhaust smoke. These hints and tips on winterizing the hutch are especially important if your rabbits will remain outside and exposed to the elements during the winter, but are also relevant when the hutch is kept inside as well. 2. Winterizing the Hutch Hutches need to be clean and dry. Rabbits can cope with the cold fairly well, but not dampness. Make sure you cover up your rabbit’s hutch at night to prevent any drafts. ⦁ A hutch can only provide protection if it's in good repair, so, if you haven't already, now is the time to make any repairs to your rabbit's home and make sure it's water tight. Start by checking the inside of your hutch for signs of water stains or damp that may indicate water is getting in. Signs of damp near the top of the hutch may indicate a problem with the roof or walls where as damp near the bottom may be an indication of water rising through the base of the hutch. ⦁ Look for gaps in the hutch walls - Check there are no gaps through which rain and wind can get in. Make sure the wood isn't damp or rotting, and reapply a rabbit-safe wood protecting coating every few years. You can also line the inside walls with newspaper. ⦁ Renew Preservative - The side walls of rabbit hutches also need to be weather proofed. The protective coating will wear and needs to be reapplied every few years - more if necessary. This will stop the damp entering the hutch and also protect the wood from rotting. To renew the stain/paint/varnish, give it a good brush with a stiff brush to remove and dirt and lose paint, sand it lightly, re-brush to remove any dust and then repaint. If you are painting over the same color you won't generally need as many coats as starting from scratch. Most water-based wood preservatives are pet safe. ⦁ Check the roofing felt of the hutch to make sure that it is watertight and in a good state of repair. Any wooden joints and planking should be dry, and show no sign of water marks of staining which might indicate that rain is seeping in from under the roof. ⦁ Make sure that all of the walls of the hutch are also in good condition, and suitably painted or varnished against the elements, as the roof is not the only area which can allow moisture and rain to penetrate your rabbits' home. Check inside and outside of the hutch carefully for any signs of water ingress, such as damp patches or tidemarks. ⦁ Damp and moisture can also enter the hutch from below, so make sure that the hutch is always raised from ground level or a sturdy base such as bricks or a table frame, in order to allow free circulation of air and avoid rising damp. ⦁ Move your rabbit hutch to a place that is protected from the prevailing winter winds. ⦁ Raise the hutch off the floor - Raise your hutch by placing bricks underneath, or by attaching long legs. This will help to prevent damp from the ground affecting the bottom of the hutch, and also stop ground frost freezing the base. It will also protect a hutch in an area that is likely to flood a little (obviously won't protect from severe flooding). Ideally rabbit hutches should be on long legs all the time to make it hard for predators to get near. ⦁ If the hutch is attached to a run, buy a waterproof cover to keep the run area dry. Use a tarp with eyelets so it can be secured in place over the hutch and run. If you don’t want to buy one, make your own by using something like plastic sheeting, tar paper or Plexiglas. ⦁ Put wind breaks up around the hutch and run. ⦁ If you have a Rabbit barn - Line your shed/barn to create a double wall and an extra layer of insulation. If your rabbits live in a shed or playhouse all the time, rather than a hutch, you can add insulation to the walls to help keeping it warm. ⦁ If your rabbits live in a shed then you can use a greenhouse heater to help keep the temperature above freezing. ⦁ Large mesh doors can be partially covered with clear Perspex or plastic, allowing your rabbit to see out and the sun to come in but preventing wind and rain from enter. Look for panels designed for greenhouses. Ventilation is still important though, so leave a gap of several inches for this. You will need to design the cover in order to provide protection from the cold and harsh winds while still ensuring that your rabbits are getting enough air. ⦁ Buy a ‘Snugglesafe Heatpad’. You warm it up in the microwave and it releases heat for a few hours, so you’ll need to reheat it a couple of times a day. ⦁ Add a low wattage heater to your shed, but make sure the rabbits can not get to the electrical cord. ⦁ Entrances should face south, away from the wind. If this is not possible, turn it around and put something in front to block the direct wind and rain Insulation ⦁ Cover the hutch on three sides with a down filled blanket. Make sure the side that is not covered has the most protection from the wind. Cover the down blanket with a waterproof tarp. Water is the next greatest threat to a rabbit in the winter. Wet fur does not insulate the rabbit and allows body heat to escape rapidly. ⦁ Put old blankets or carpets over the hutch and run, but under the tarpaulin for extra insulation. Make sure the rabbits cannot chew on these as this could result in an intestinal blockage. ⦁ Wrap the Hutches in Clear Plastic - I suggest clear plastic so that there is more sunlight coming into the hutches. Rabbits needs vitamin D just as much as we do. And they definitely will not mate without a good source of it. This can prove a challenge in early spring months. With that said, I did use tarps over many of our hutches. Just about anything can go around the hutches as long as it breaks the winter winds from coming in. Everyday lift the tarps and plastic up during the day, on one side, so that they rabbits can get extra sunlight. If your rabbits do not get enough sunlight, it can make them easily sick as well. ⦁ Stack With Straw - Your other option can be stacking straw around your hutches, but this can get pricey. Straw insulates as well as breaks the wind. Many people prefer this as it is the warmest option. In order for it to work properly, the straw needs to go on the outside of the hutch, otherwise the rabbits will burrow into it and rearrange it for you. ⦁ Use some cheap carpet samples for the rabbits to lay or sit on (make sure the edges aren’t fraying). Keep an eye on the samples to make sure the rabbits are not chewing on them. Nesting ⦁ Add extra straw to the hutch, especially in the area where the rabbits bed. Extra straw is another added layer of insulation for your pets. Straw is only $6 or so per bale. It's not that expensive to add extra if necessary. Because straw is an insulator, your rabbits can arrange it in their hutches the way they wish, and they will burrow into it to keep warm. Change this straw every other day to prevent moisture from building up in the sleeping area. Bedding needs to be warm and dry. Change it as frequently as you can. Cedar and pine shavings are not safe to use for bedding. The aromatic oils can be toxic to rabbits, raising their liver enzymes, and can cause death. Although the studies on this used un-kilned chips, so use caution and your discretion. Straw is safe and warmer than hay but will mold quickly so it must be changed often as moldy bedding can make your rabbit sick. Aspen bedding is a very good choice. Always use extra bedding in the the winter so your rabbit can have a place to burrow in and keep warm. ⦁ If the rabbits don't already have a nesting box, this is a perfect time to add one. Make sure that the rabbit has a nesting box available that is not much larger than the rabbit’s body size. This could be as simple as a shoe box with and entry cut into one side. The box can be lined with straw to provide greater warmth. If the box is too large, it will allow too much room for cold air to get in around the rabbit, especially to its less-protected feet. The box should allow for comfortable entrance and exit, with just enough space for the rabbit to turn around inside it. The rabbit’s body should fit snugly within the nesting materials when it curls up to sleep. This will allow the rabbit a warmer refuge during cold nights or windy days when bitter winds can easily come up through a wire bottom and freeze its feet. If your rabbit urinates in the sleeping area, get a litter tray which fits inside the cardboard box, this will help by making it easier for you to clean out and it’ll make the box last longer. Warning ⦁ Word of caution regarding cardboard box for rabbit to sleep in. I have seen rabbits nibble at the box and tear it apart so that the bedding was too thin to keep them warm. So if it is colder, it is possible for the rabbit to freeze to death during the night. Cold weather can be deadly for any animal, but with just a few precautions and a rabbit’s naturally well-insulated body, the animal can live warm and comfortable in even the coldest climates. We have never once lost a rabbit to the cold or winter months, and I feel like that's something to take pride in. However, it happens. Even to the best rabbit breeders and keepers. Sometimes, winter is just incredibly mean, and there could be other health issues that you were not aware of with your rabbit. Don't beat yourself up too much—just continue to strive for better! Rabbits survive in the wild further north than most other animals, but your pet rabbit relies on you to give it the advantages that allow their wild cousins to live throughout the year. 3. Water Supply RABBITS DRINK MORE WATER IN COLD WEATHER THAN IN HOT. BURNING CALORIES TO KEEP WARM CAUSES THEM TO DEHYDRATE. So be sure to check the water supply frequently. The rabbit's body is made up of 50 to 75 percent water. Water forms the basis of blood and digestive fluids, and is contained in tissue, fat and bones. The rabbit's body can’t store extra water, and needs a fresh supply every day to make up for losses from the lungs, skin, urine and feces. Water is vital for most bodily functions, including: ⦁ Maintaining the health and integrity of every cell in the body. ⦁ Helping eliminate the byproducts of the body’s metabolism, such as electrolytes and urea. ⦁ Moistening mucous membranes, such as those of the lungs and mouth. ⦁ Lubricating and cushioning joints. ⦁ Aiding in digestion and preventing fecal impaction. ⦁ Carrying nutrients and oxygen to cells. ⦁ Keeping the bloodstream fluid enough to flow through blood vessels. ⦁ Serving as a shock absorber inside the eyes, spinal cord and in the amniotic sac surrounding the fetus in pregnancy. Rabbits cannot endure water deprivation for more then 24 hours (even less during hot weather) without serious health consequences. Simply put, rabbits must have access to fresh, clean water at all times in order to thrive. Rabbits should be given pure water to drink, from the same source as you'd use for drinking water. Water in Winter The biggest concern for rabbits in cold weather is keeping their water liquid. It can be difficult to keep your rabbit supplied with water in freezing temperatures. Especially in the cold, it does not take rabbits long to suffer severe dehydration and they must have access to water at all times. While most rabbit owners prefer water bottles with a ball-activated tube so that rabbits always have clean water to drink, these can be hazardous during the winter. The thin metal tube freezes much faster than the water in the bottle, so caretakers may believe that their rabbit still has drinkable water when the tube is frozen solid. Most people choose to carry out warm water twice a day to their rabbits. ⦁ A plain dish, or a dish that uses a 20-ounce or 1-liter plastic bottle for its supply, is preferable. The wider mouth of these bottles does not freeze as easily. If heated dishes that the rabbit can not chew are available, the water can be kept from freezing altogether. ⦁ Place a water dish in a sheltered area inside the cage, enough above the floor to keep it from being stepped in or spilled. Fill the water every day and check it several times during the day, especially in very cold weather. The heat from the rabbit’s body inside a well-sheltered cage can often be sufficient to keep the water from freezing, or will slow the rate of freezing. ⦁ Putting your water supply near a light bulb is sometimes a sufficient low cost solution ⦁ I have an automatic watering system made of PVC pipe which we wrap with insulating foam. The problem is that the brass fittings in the waterer itself freezes. There is nothing worse than broken pipes. After a few years of mistakes, I have found that it was safer to turn the water supply off all together when temps are expected in the 20's and below. In the evening, I go out with several gallons of warm water and fill the reservoir and turn the water back on during warm winter day. One easy way of keeping water lines in an automatic watering system is by using a heating coil which one would usually use to keep pipes thawed. If you are running your water from a main water tank, you might also be able to use a bubbler for an aquarium or a small aquarium or pond heater. This year I plan to run a pump through the water lines back to the reservoir with a heater in the reservoir. ⦁ Invest in a thermal water bottle cover. This will keep the water in the bottle warm longer, so the rabbits will have more time to drink it. Check the water at least twice a day and fill it with room temp water. DIY by wrapping the bottle up with bubble wrap and an old sock or using insulators designed for wine bottles. ⦁ I am not fancy enough to have heated water bottles, so when we shut down the auto water system, or it froze, we must check on our rabbits twice a day to switch out water. Before the auto system, we used water bottles, but the metal spout on water bottles freezes too quickly, so in the winter months we exchange our bottles for crocks. In the event that they freeze, the rabbits can still lick the ice. I would change the water in the morning and evening — they must be changed twice a day in order for your rabbits to remain healthy. ⦁ I have found it easier to fill a bucket up with all the frozen crocks, swap them with fresh unfrozen crocks, and put the bucket with frozen crocks inside to let the crocks thaw. I highly suggest using plastic or metal crocks. Ceramic ones can crack and break easily. ⦁ Crocks stay unfrozen longer than water bottles because the spout on the water bottle freezes quickly. Also, the rabbits can lick the ice in the crock if they really need to. ⦁ If you use bottles then it's helpful to have a spare bottle(s) so you can leave one inside whilst the ice defrosts and use the spare, it's much easier that trying to chop the ice out. The plastic bottles tend to become brittle in the cold and are more likely to crack or shatter, so it's handy to have a back up too. ⦁ If you get caught unprepared, large tuna cans will work. Just make sure to crimp or smooth down any rough edges. ⦁ Heated Pet Bowl - This bowl is heated to prevent water freezing, but will require an electricity connection and you'll need to hide the wire in trunking to prevent chewing. Do NOT underestimate how important it is to water your rabbits twice a day when it is icy. Dehydration can kill your rabbits extremely quickly. 4. Feed in Winter Keep in mind that outdoor rabbits may need more food during the winter months; they use more energy heating themselves so need to take in more energy through their food. Rabbits need more calories to keep up their weight in the winter. You may also want to keep an eye on their body condition to make sure they don’t gain weight. Rabbits in winter can get fat and then have trouble getting pregnant come springtime! The best way to manage this is to monitor your rabbits weight, to see if they are maintaining a healthy body weight. Any changes in diet need to happen slowly. As always, be careful with the treats because sudden changes in diet can kill your rabbit. Offer one new item at a time and slowly increase the amount. It’s a good idea to start around early fall to be ready for winter. ⦁ Feed needs to available at all times. Hay and feed should be slightly increased as they will need the extra calories in the winter to maintain their body weight. Black Oil Sunflower Seeds Black Oil Sunflower Seeds are a treat for rabbits. Black oil sunflower seeds are high energy foods. You can sprinkle them on top of their regular food, or increase their ratio if you mix your own feed. We want it to be a "treat", rather than a "meal", because if they were to feed on too much every day, they would be extremely over-weight. Black oil sunflower seeds causes your rabbit to gain fat in their body. While this is bad for mating, this is wonderful insulation for their body in the winter months. Consider giving them a few extra handfuls of Black oil sunflower seeds each month to help them gain a little weight to keep warm. Rolled Oats Rolled oats are a high energy food. You can sprinkle them on top of their regular food, or increase their ratio if you mix your own feed. Add ACV to their Water Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) will help keep their bodies alkaline and healthy in the cold months. Make sure you use organic ACV with the Mother. In fact, it's a great way to keep them healthy all of the time. I find that we tend to give it to them more in the winter, however. The measurement should be 1 tbs. to a gallon of water. Or you can just top off each crock or bottle with a few drops. This doesn't need to be an everyday ritual, but can be done several times a week. 5. If you find that you have a litter in the winter months... Many good rabbit mamas will tend very well to her babies, as long as she has the proper tools. Make sure you are feeding her plenty of food, because not only is she trying to keep her body warm, she is also going to eat more while pregnant and nursing. Given a good amount of straw, she will do just fine. But make sure you are giving her straw every few days as necessary, as she will build and re-build her nest as her babies grow. If you have good mothers they should pull plenty of fur to keep the babies warm even if it’s below freezing. The greatest danger is to newborn kits. Keep a close eye on any does who are due and make sure she pulls plenty of fur and gets all the babies into the nest box. If you find cold ones you may be able to resuscitate them if you start soon enough. 6. Exercise Rabbits still need exercise in winter so allow them to have a run around, or let them have a short time in the garden but make sure they don't get wet. Your rabbits will still need to stretch their legs and run about during the colder months, so try to allow for this during the warmer times of the day rather than early mornings and evenings. If your rabbits get very wet, dry them with a towel and let them warm up naturally indoors (do not put them by a heater which they can't move away from). Do as much insulating of their run as possible so they can still go in it, and try and move it somewhere where it will get some winter sunshine. Avoid trips into the house in the winter. Bunnies can handle the cold, but they can’t handle extreme and sudden changes in temperature. A cold basement might be the exception to that. 7. Hibernation Rabbits don't hibernate, If you rabbits become lethargic and limp, they are too cold. Get them inside a warmer space immediately and get their body temperature back up, and take it to the vet. If a rabbit is inactive and doesn’t eat, you know it’s an emergency! Closing Do a health check up on your rabbits at least daily over the winter. Be sure to check them for any signs of coughing, obstructed breathing or mucus discharge around the eyes or nose. Rabbits can get colds and will need to be treated. It doesn’t take long to give your rabbits a quick health check. Obviously, don’t let your rabbit get wet, that’s a great way to end up with a sick or dead rabbit. Outdoor bunnies rely on their owners to keep them safe in all kinds of weather. They are silent creatures and can't bark or ask you for help so please keep a close eye on your rabbits. Any changes or anything you may be worried about, phone your vet. With just a little extra care you should be able to keep your rabbits comfy all winter. I can’t say the same for your hands when breaking the ice out of their crocks though! This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. https://www.saveafluff.co.uk/rabbit-info/winter-care-for-rabbits http://www.therabbithouse.com/outdoor/rabbitwinter.asp https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/preparing-rabbits-for-winter-zbcz1601 https://farmingmybackyard.com/winter-rabbit-care/ http://www.crossroadsrabbitry.com/winter-care-tips-for-your-rabbit/ https://bunnyapproved.com/winter-bunnies-how-to-protect-rabbits-from-the-cold/ http://blog.rabbitholehay.com/winterizing-your-rabbit-hutch-for-winter https://www.thecapecoop.com/getting-rabbits-ready-for-winter/ https://www.cuteness.com/article/keep-rabbits-warm-winter-rabbit-hutch https://pethelpful.com/rabbits/Tips-for-Keeping-Pet-Rabbits-Outdoors-in-Cold-Weather https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/caring-for-your-rabbits-during-the-winter.html https://barbibrownsbunnies.com/winter/ https://www.raisingrabbitsformeat.com/preparing-rabbits-for-winter/ Word of the Week - Receipt Brer Fox Catches Old Man Tarrypin A Georgia Folktale retold by S. E. Schlosser Well now, Brer Rabbit had made friends with Old Man Tarrypin, a big turtle that lived in the pond near his house. Brer Rabbit and Old Man Tarrypin liked to pull tricks on Brer Fox, and that rascally fellow got pretty mad about it. Since he couldn't catch Brer Rabbit nohow, Brer Fox decided that he'd get even with Old Man Tarrypin instead. He started walking beside the pond every day, hoping to find the turtle out of the water. One morning, as he was taking his daily stroll, Brer Fox saw Old Man Tarrypin sitting right in the center of the road. The old turtle looked hot and bothered about something. He kept shaking his head back and forth and he was panting like he was out of breath. "Howdy, Brer Tarrypin," said Brer Fox, stopping beside the old turtle. "What's the matter wid you?" "I was a-strolling in the field beside my pond when the farmer came along and set it on fire," Old Man Tarrypin gasped. "I had to run and run, but that ol' fire was faster than me, so I curled up in my shell while it passed right over me! My shell is hotter than the noon-day sun, and I think I done singed my tail!" "Let me have a look," said Brer Fox. So Old Man Tarrypin uncurled his tail and poked it out of his shell. Immediately, Brer Fox grabbed him by the tail and swung him right off the ground. "I gotcha now, Brer Tarrypin," cried Brer Fox. "You ain't gonna bother me no more!" Well, Old Man Tarrypin begged and begged Brer Fox not to drown him. He'd rather go back into the fire in the field on account of he'd kind of gotten used to being burned. Brer Fox swung the poor old turtle back and forth by his tail, trying to decide what to do. Putting Old Man Tarrypin into the fire was a tempting idea, but then he remembered how the old turtle had curled up into his shell so the fire couldn't touch him. Brer Fox frowned. Fire was no good, then. Brer Fox decided to drown Old Man Tarrypin instead. He tucked the turtle under his arm and carried him down to the springhouse by the pond. "Please, oh please don't drown me," Old Man Tarrypin begged. "I ain't making no promises," Brer Fox retorted. "You've played too many tricks on me, Brer Tarrypin." Brer Fox thrust him into the water and began bouncing him up and down. "Oh, I is drowning," shouted Old Man Tarrypin when his head bounced out of the water. "Don't let go of my tail, Brer Fox or I'll be drowned for sure!" "That's the idea, Brer Tarrypin," Brer Fox yelled back and let go of his tail. Immediately Old Man Tarrypin splashed down and down into the water and thumped onto the mud on the bottom, kerplicky-splat. That's when Brer Fox remembered that Old Man Tarrypin lived in the pond, and there was never any fear of him drowning, nohow! He could hear him laughing from the bottom of the pond: "I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere". Brer Fox jumped up and down in fury. Old Man Tarrypin had escaped him! From the other side of the pond, Brer Bull Frog called out: "Knee-deep! Knee-deep!" Brer Fox glared at the pond, and then looked back at Brer Bull Frog. "It's only knee-deep?" he asked suspiciously. "Knee-deep, knee-deep!" Brer Bull Frog said again. All the little frogs joined in the chorus then. "Better-believe-it! Better-believe-it!" Well, thought Brer Fox, if it was only knee deep, then he'd have no trouble catching Old Man Tarrypin. "Wade-in, wade-in!" croaked Brer Bull Frog. "Knee-deep, knee-deep!" agreed all the little frogs. Brer Fox didn't much like water, but he really wanted to catch Old Man Tarrypin. He approached the edge of the pond cautiously. From underneath the water, Old Man Tarrypin laughed at him, and his words bubbled up to Brer Fox: "I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere! I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere." Well. That did it. Brer Fox ran right up to the edge of the pond. Leaning over, he looked into the water and saw another fox staring at him. "Dat's-your-brother! Dat's-your-brother," Brer Bull Frog told Brer Fox. Brer Fox was thrilled. He didn't know he had a brother. Now that there were two foxes, catching Old Man Tarrypin would be a cinch! Brer Fox leaned down to shake hands with his new-found brother, and toppled right down into the deep water of the pond. All of the frogs laughed and laughed at the trick they had played on Brer Fox, and Old Man Tarrypin started swimming up from the bottom of the pond, his red eyes fixed on Brer Fox's tail. Brer Fox knew that the old turtle wanted to pull him down under that water and drown him, so he learned to swim mighty quick! With much splashing and squirming and kicking, Brer Fox made it to the edge of the pond, where he jumped out and ran away as fast as he could, while Brer Bull Frog laughed and the little frogs shouted with glee. The last thing he heard as he rounded the corner was the voice of Old Man Tarrypin calling: "I-dare-ya-ta- come-down-'ere". Brer Fox never messed with Old Man Tarrypin again. http://americanfolklore.net/folklore/2010/07/brer_fox_catches_old_man_tarry.html BOSS - Black Oil Sunflower Seeds Sunflower, Helianthus, is only one of many plants that rabbits find attractive. The rabbits will eat every part of sunflowers, including the seeds and flowers. https://www.hunker.com/13406359/natural-remedy-to-keep-rabbits-from-eating-sunflowers Helianthus or sunflower (/ˌhiːliˈænθəs/)[2] is a genus of plants comprising about 70 species.[3][4] Except for three species in South America, all Helianthus species are native to North America. The common name, "sunflower", typically refers to the popular annual species Helianthus annuus, or the common sunflower, whose round flower heads in combination with the ligules look like the sun.[5] This and other species, notably Jerusalem artichoke (H. tuberosus), are cultivated in temperate regions and some tropical regions as food crops for humans, cattle, and poultry, and as ornamental plants.[6] Perennial sunflower species are not as popular for gardens due to their tendency to spread rapidly and become invasive. The whorled sunflower, H. verticillatus, was listed as an endangered species in 2014 when the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service issued a final rule protecting it under the Endangered Species Act. The primary threats are industrial forestry and pine plantations in Alabama, Georgia, and Tennessee. They grow to 1.8 m (6 ft) and are primarily found in woodlands, adjacent to creeks and moist, prairie-like areas.[7] Contents 1 Description 2 Production 3 Diversity 4 Gallery 5 References 6 External links 7 See also Description Close-up of a sunflower Close-up of a sunflower The disk of a sunflower is made up of many little flowers. The ray flowers here are dried up. A field of sunflowers in North Carolina Sunflowers are usually tall annual or perennial plants that in some species can grow to a height of 300 cm (120 in) or more. They bear one or more wide, terminal capitula (flower heads), with bright yellow ray florets at the outside and yellow or maroon (also known as a brown/red) disc florets inside. Several ornamental cultivars of H. annuus have red-colored ray florets; all of them stem from a single original mutant.[8] During growth, sunflowers tilt during the day to face the sun, but stop once they begin blooming. This tracking of the sun in young sunflower heads is called heliotropism. By the time they are mature, sunflowers generally face east.[9] The rough and hairy stem is branched in the upper part in wild plants, but is usually unbranched in domesticated cultivars. The petiolate leaves are dentate and often sticky. The lower leaves are opposite, ovate, or often heart-shaped. They are distinguished technically by the fact that the ray florets (when present) are sterile, and by the presence on the disk flowers of a pappus that is of two awn-like scales that are caducous (that is, easily detached and falling at maturity). Some species also have additional shorter scales in the pappus, and one species lacks a pappus entirely. Another technical feature that distinguishes the genus more reliably, but requires a microscope to see, is the presence of a prominent, multicellular appendage at the apex of the style. Sunflowers are especially well known for their symmetry based on Fibonacci numbers and the golden angle.[citation needed] Quite a bit of variability is seen among the perennial species that make up the bulk of those in the genus. Some have most or all of the large leaves in a rosette at the base of the plant and produce a flowering stem that has leaves that are reduced in size. Most of the perennials have disk flowers that are entirely yellow, but a few have disk flowers with reddish lobes. One species, H. radula, lacks ray flowers altogether. Helianthus species are used as food plants by the larvae of many lepidopterans. The seeds of H. annuus are used as human food. Production Ukraine and Russia were top sunflower producers of the world in 2017. They contributed half of the sunflower seed production globally, which is approximately 23 MMT altogether.[10] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helianthus Rabbits love black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS). They are a great winter tonic! I only feed BOSS to my rabbits in the cooler months, as it is a high calorie, high fat, “hot” feed. So it keeps them warm and shiny, great for a dry winter coat. This helps by putting the oil back into their coats. I am talking about the black oil sunflower seeds, not the striped seeds. The striped seeds have thicker, tougher hulls. Black oil seeds have thinner shells and are more nutritious. Black oil sunflower seeds contain high levels of protein are rich in vitamin E, linoleic acid and provide a good source of fiber. Rabbits benefit from this snack seed as a high source of energy during cold temperatures. I do not recommend using BOSS during the heat of the summer (June, July, and August here in Maine, it may be longer in your area). I feel that if fed during hot weather it will make them shed more and could cause gut troubles by hair blockage. But if you have a rabbit that is stuck in a molt, then this is a great additive to add to your rabbits diet. By adding the extra calories and protein this will get them to blow their coat and get in new growth. If rabbits are overfed BOSS or fed to often this can also trigger a molt so feed in moderation. This is used as a tonic not a feed! Her are the general nutritional components of black oil sunflower seeds, I also listed some of the benefits of each next to the item 28 percent fat – Fat in a rabbits diet functions as an energy source, aids in the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K). It also adds luster and gloss to the fur and helps slow shedding. 25 percent fiber – This helps provide the bulk and forage requirements for a rabbit and also promoting a healthy gut. 15 percent protein – Protein is need for the growth, disease resistance, milk production, general health and reproduction. Calcium – Calcium plays a key role in bodily processes, such as heart function, muscle contraction, coagulation, and electrolyte levels in the blood. But you do not want excess calcium in a rabbits diet as this can cause urinary tract problems. B vitamins- A rabbit produces its own b vitamin by bacteria in the hind-gut of the rabbit, their requirements are fulfilled through caecotrophy. So B is not very important to a domestic rabbit. Iron- Vitamin E – helps to remove toxins out of your rabbit’s body this helps to maintain the immune system. Potassium- Rabbit need this when they’re sick as they lose potassium through watery feces. Feeding rabbits BOSS- Rabbits should only be fed BOSS as condition mix or tonic treat, 6 seeds per a rabbit top dressed in the feed hopper or crock is enough! DO NOT OVERFEED! You do not want fat lazy rabbits. Feed with the hulls on this is a good added fiber for the rabbits digestive track. Some show breeders feed BOSS as a daily conditioner one week before a show. I do not think you should add them to a bulk bag of feed because you will not be able to control the amount of BOSS each of your rabbits consumes. Black oil sunflower seeds are not a complete source of nutrition for your rabbit, offering only a few necessary nutrients your rabbit needs. These should only be offered as part of a rabbit’s diet, not the sole source of nutrition. Vitamins A and E are vulnerable to poor or prolonged storage in feeds. Both of these vitamins are needed for the willingness and ability of rabbits to breed. Instead of increasing the pellets, I suggest feeding about a tablespoon of black oil sunflower seeds for Vitamin E and a good handful of dark leafy greens (dandelions, plantain, raspberry,and Kale are fine) for Vitamin A. If the rabbits have never had greens, start with just a couple of leaves and work up to more to help with those unwilling does. One of the things I like about the BOSS is that even rabbits who are “off their feed” will nibble at them. When I got my first Angoras many years ago I tried adding BOSS to their diet and the results could be noticed by coat growth and quality, I can only assume it is from more protein-rich foods. Coat growth in Angoras or any wool breed uses a lot of protein to keep the fiber growing having a little extra to burn is making their fiber thick, dense, and soft. PROS- They are packed with nutrition, amino acids, and calories, so they are a great supplement for almost any rabbit to one degree or another. They do help with shiny coats also. The side benefit is the volunteer sunflowers that sprout. I grew some out this summer (Will be growing a plot of the in 2013) and saved the seed heads, then pulled the plant and gave it to the rabbits as a green treat in the cages. They would not only eat the leaves, but they would gnaw the stems until it was all gone! CONS- Not to many, but possibly too high in protein and calories, which could cause heat issues during summer months. If fed too much too often maybe some weight gain, and molting problems. I believe the positives of BOSS out weight the negatives. Definitely feed with shells as they add necessary fiber and are easy to chew through for rabbits. Black oil sunflower seeds often stimulate your rabbit to gain weight due to their high fat content. This extra body weight helps rabbits maintain their body temperature in the winter, fall, and spring months. Your rabbit may not need to maintain as much body heat in the summer months, so consider cutting back the amount of black oil sunflower seeds your rabbit consumes during those months. https://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/11/25/feeding-rabbits-black-oil-sunflower-seeds/   Arthritis due to Bacterial Infection in Rabbits Septic Arthritis in Rabbits Arthritis is the general medical term for inflamed joints. Septic arthritis, on the other hand, is a condition that occurs when bacteria infects one or more of the rabbit’s joints. There is no age, breed, or gender predisposition for septic arthritis in rabbits. Symptoms and Types Sluggish behavior Lameness Anorexia Joint pain and swelling Warmth emanating from the joints Decreased range of motion Signs of infection (e.g., urinary tract infection or dental disease) Causes Pyogenic bacteria causes septic arthritis. There are many types of pyogenic bacteria, including staphylococci, pasteurella, and anaerobic bacteria (which can survive without oxygen). These bacteria may lead to an infection in the body and can also migrate to the joints, where they cause septic arthritis. There are some characteristics that may put an animal at higher risk for developing septic arthritis. These include long-term (chronic) cases of bacterial infection, traumatic injuries to the joints, and immunosuppressive disorders (immune system does not function properly). Some other sources of infection may include dental disease, an infection of the upper respiratory tract, or a wound. Diagnosis A rabbit with a history of upper respiratory tract infection, dental disease, or previous traumatic wound – such as bite wound – may suggest septic arthritis. If septic arthritis is suspected, a number of tests can be done by the veterinarian. An analysis of fluid taken from around the joints (synovial fluid analysis) may reveal characteristics of septic arthritis, such as an increased volume of fluid or the presence of bacteria. These fluid samples are submitted for testing so the type of bacterium may be pinpointed and treated accordingly. Alternate tests include X-rays and a urine analysis. Treatment When treating the rabbits, it is essential to treat the primary cause in order to cure septic arthritis. In most cases, antibiotics are prescribed to fight the infectious agent, although sometimes surgery is required. Living and Management There are a few things you can do to make your rabbit more comfortable and improve its condition. Soft bedding, for instance, can help increase the time of recovery from surgery. And activity should be restricted until the pet's symptoms have resolved. It is also essential to ensure that the rabbit is eating throughout recovery; offer fresh foods such as moist greens and good-quality grass hay. If the veterinarian prescribes medication, follow the instructions carefully. In particular, antibiotics are generally administered long-term. There is also a danger of residual degenerative joint disease -- a chronic condition that causes the cartilage surrounding the joints to deteriorate – as a result of septic arthritis. Prevention Because of the many causes which lead to septic arthritis in rabbits, listing all the preventative measures would be impossible. However, it would be wise to keep the rabbit safe and away from potentially dangerous situations to avoid wounds; also, clean its cage regularly. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/musculoskeletal/c_rb_arthritis_septic   © Copyrighted

Catch up with Rabbit and Julie Goodwin as they chat about hairdressers that are a little too honest! And find out what "outhouse gymnastics" entails! See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Podcast "Shiza Show" Episode 18  Today Shawn discusses Art Shows, Cleveland Indians, Outhouses, Budweiser, Tailpipes and Raccoons. customgraffiti.com - Lowbrow Art customgraffiti.com - Lowbrow Art

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   Rabbit Care 101   I want to apologize for the time for this episode to come out. We lost power about two weeks ago when the March Storm came up the East Coast. We got power back after about three days, but only had half power, so we could not run anything 220 such as the heater, water, dryer and some things were also not running such as the refrigerator or freezer. We had to call the electric company out to find out if the issue was with the power coming to the house or not. That was not the issue, so we had an estimate to repair the Master Breaker in the fuse panel at almost $3000. A neighbor ended up helping me replace the Master breaker after we scheduled the power to be off, and it was a minimal cost. So after about ten days we had everything back except the heater. Today we have heat after finding a popped 5amp fuse. So I apologize for the delay, but it is tough to record without heat, or power, or running water.... Know the Basic Needs of Rabbits First off, here's what you need to know about the basics of what rabbits need. Check City Ordinances Before you buy your Hutch and rabbits, check with your city ordinances to see if your town has any restrictions. There has not been a lot of oversight of rabbits in the past, so many towns are accepting of rabbits within city limits. Before you raise rabbits in fact, you must first find out if you are allowed to raise rabbits in your locality and immediate area. The perspective commercial operator going into business on a considerable scale will naturally locate the rabbitry where they are relatively safe from zoning for many years. The small backyard breeder who is thinking in terms of ten or twenty holes has been know to purchase hutches, rabbits, and equipment only to learn shortly, to their sorrow, that rabbits may not be raised in their locality. It pays to investigate first rather than be sorry later. In some cases a limited number of rabbits may be kept provided the rabbitry can be located at an established distance from dwellings. When compared to chickens rabbitys generally have less regulations due to minimal noise from the rabbits. Now most of the info on state and city regulations was from the House Rabbit Society. They are a great source of information about rabbits. State Laws All breeders in the US are subject to the Animal Welfare Act which applies if they sell more than $500 of animals per year to a pet store or distributor. If so, then the breeder may need to be licensed and follow certain animal care and housing standards. There are many exemptions to the $500 rule though, and the law should read carefully to be sure whether they apply or not. See the USDA page on the Animal Welfare Act for more information. Many states and even counties and cities also have their own laws regarding the sale of rabbits such as the age at which they may be sold and where they may be sold. Here we attempt to list all relevant laws for every state. ⦁ North Carolina, Indiana, Virginia, Florida, and Vermont ban the sale of unweaned rabbits, or rabbits under 2 months of age. ⦁ Colorado bans the sale of rabbits under the age of 4 weeks. ⦁ New Jersey, California, Kentucky, South Carolina, Maine, Maryland, Montana, and Pennsylvania ban the dying of rabbits and other animals and the sale or giveaway of rabbits under 2 months of age. ⦁ North Dakota, DC, Illinois, Arkansas, Connecticut, New Hampshire, Tennessee, Washington, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Louisiana, and Ohio prohibit the sale of dyed rabbits and other animals. ⦁ Washington, DC bans the sale of pet rabbits under the age of 16 weeks. ⦁ Pennsylvania bans the sale of rabbits and other animals in public places. ⦁ Vermont and California prohibit the sale of rabbits and other animals on the side of the road. ⦁ Alabama, Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Florida, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia and Wisconsin all have laws prohibiting the give away of rabbits and other animals as prizes in carnivals or other events (although sometimes those laws only specify the giveaway of very young animals). City and County Laws ⦁ Aurora, CO has a mandatory spay/neuter ordinance that includes rabbits. They also have a pet limit law of two rabbits. Pet owners can get an exception to these laws by purchasing a breeder or kennel license. ⦁ San Francisco, CA prohibits the sale of pet rabbits in the city and county. ⦁ Los Angeles, CA prohibits the sale of pet rabbits and other animals in the city’s pet stores. ⦁ Boston, MA prohibits the sale of pet rabbits and other animals in the city’s pet stores. ⦁ Chicago, IL prohibits the sale of pet rabbits and other animals in the city’s pet stores. ⦁ The county of Bernalillo, NM prohibits the sale of rabbits as companion animals (i.e. pet stores cannot sell rabbits in the county). Sale of all rabbits is banned during the months of March and April (this eliminates impulse sales for Easter). This does not apply to the city of Albuquerque, which bans cat and dog sales but allows rabbit sales. ⦁ Fort Worth, San Antonio, Austin, and Houston, TX all ban the sale of rabbits and other animals in public places. ⦁ In Louisiana, St. Tammany Parish, the Archdiocese of New Orleans, and the city of Slidell all forbid giving away rabbits and other animals as prizes. ⦁ Any Arizona county with a population of 800,000 or more prohibits the sale of rabbits or any other animals on or near any public highway, street or park. ⦁ Santa Fe, NM forbids giving away live animals as carnival prizes within city limits. ⦁ New York, NY prohibits the sale of rabbits in the city’s pet stores. ⦁ Salt Lake City, UT prohibits the sale of pet rabbits in the city’s pet stores. ⦁ The following Ontario cities now prohibit the sale of rabbits in pet stores: Toronto, Kingston, Missassauga, Kitchener, and Windsor. ⦁ Surrey, BC and Richmond, BC have banned the sale of rabbits in pet stores. ⦁ Ottawa is now considering banning the sales of rabbits, cats and dogs in their pet stores. The history of the rabbit Rabbits belong to the order of mammals called Lagomorpha, which includes 40 or so species of rabbits, hares and Pikas. Fossil records suggest that Lagomorpha evolved in Asia at least 40 million years ago, during the Eocene period. The break-up of continents during this period may be responsible for the wide distribution of differing species of rabbits and hares around the world, with the exception of Australia. There are currently more than 60 recognized breeds of domestic rabbit in Europe and America, all of them descended from the European rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus), the only species of rabbit to have been widely domesticated. It is a separate species from other native rabbits such as the North American jackrabbits and cottontail rabbits and all species of hares. The European wild rabbit evolved around 4,000 years ago on the Iberian Peninsula, the name 'Hispania' (Spain) is translated from the name given to that area by Phoenician merchants, meaning 'land of the rabbits'. When the Romans arrived in Spain around 200BC, they began to farm the native rabbits for their meat and fur. The Romans called this practice 'cuniculture' and kept the rabbits in fenced enclosures. Inevitably, the rabbits tried to escape and it is perhaps no surprise that the Latin name 'Oryctolagus cuniculus' means 'hare-like digger of underground tunnels'. The spread of the Roman empire, along with increasing trade between countries, helped to introduce the European rabbit into many more parts of Europe and Asia. Wild rabbits are said to have been first domesticated in the 5th Century by the monks of the Champagne Region in France. Monks were almost certainly the first to keep rabbits in cages as a readily available food source, and the first to experiment with selective breeding for traits such as weight, size and fur color. Rabbits were introduced to Britain during the 12th Century, and during the Middle Ages, the breeding and farming of rabbits for meat and fur became widespread throughout Europe. The selective breeding of European rabbits meant that distinct breeds arose in different regions, and the origins of many old breeds can be traced back several centuries. Up until the 19th century, domestic rabbits had been bred purely for their meat and fur, but during the Victorian era, many new 'fancy' breeds were developed for the hobby of breeding rabbits for showing. Industrialization also meant that many people moving from the country to the expanding towns and cities, brought rabbits with them; apart from poultry, they were the only 'farm' animal to be practical to keep in town. Although many of these rabbits were bred for meat, it became increasingly common among the rising middle classes to keep rabbits as pets. Domestic rabbitry did not become popular in the United States until around the turn of the century, when many European breeds began to be imported, and breeders also developed some American breeds. During the two World Wars, governments in both Britain and the United States encouraged people to keep rabbits as a source of homegrown meat and fur, both for themselves and to help feed and clothe soldiers. After the wars, many people continued to keep rabbits in their gardens, and they become commonplace as household pets. Rabbits have become the third most popular pet after cats and dogs. Your first rabbit! First you need to decide what you will get a rabbit for. Will your rabbit be an inside pet, rabbits for a 4h project, Meat rabbits, fur rabbits, or rabbits for show. 4h Project Selecting a breed of rabbit can be a huge challenge for first-time rabbit owners. There are currently 49 breeds of rabbits recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). As a 4-H member, you should familiarize and research several breeds to determine those meeting the criteria you have for your rabbit project. There are market fryers, breeding rabbits, or companion pet rabbits. The goals you have for your rabbit project have a large effect on the breed you choose to purchase. Pet Rabbit What’s special about a pet rabbit? Clean, affectionate, and sociable, rabbits can make excellent pets. They can be litter trained and are very playful and entertaining. With good care, rabbits kept indoors can live for 5 to 15 years. With more than 60 rabbit breeds in existence, rabbits can vary widely in size and appearance. If you are a first-time owner, acquiring a single rabbit is probably best. If you choose a male (buck) rabbit, you will want to have him neutered to prevent territorial marking with urine. Both male and female rabbits are tame and affectionate when well socialized. As its owner, you will ultimately be responsible for your rabbit’s food, shelter, exercise, physical and mental health for the rest of its life. While families should involve their children in caring for a rabbit, youngsters need the help of an adult who is willing, able, and available to supervise the animal’s daily care. Rabbits are well-known for their ability to produce large numbers of babies. Purchasing and breeding a rabbit for the purpose of allowing children to witness the birth process is not responsible rabbit ownership. If a female rabbit becomes pregnant, it is your responsibility to find good homes for the offspring. Spaying females and neutering males not only prevents reproduction but decreases behavioral problems and health risks. Rabbits for Show If you are interested in exhibiting breeding rabbits or raising rabbits, it is important to have a copy of the Standard of Perfection for your breed. This publication describes the ideal rabbit for each recognized breed, and is the standard by which judges compare rabbits of the same breed against one another. If you are raising rabbits, you need to understand the process of culling. Culling is removing a rabbit from the herd because of inferior production, inferior quality when compared to the Standard, or possessing specific disqualifications. Your criteria for culling might be different depending on whether you are focusing on breeding, pet, or market projects. Meat Rabbits Market rabbits should be of a commercial breed and fall into one of the following three categories: Fryers: 3½–5½ pounds (8–10 weeks of age) Roasters: 5½–9 pounds (not over 5 months) Stewers: over 8 pounds (over 5 months) Make sure you understand the requirements of your fair for exhibition of your market rabbit project. Some projects will require you to have one to three rabbits as part of your project. If your project includes more than one market rabbit paired with another, then you want to find two or three rabbits that are identical in type. Rabbits in the fryer and roaster categories can be expected to gain approximately 7 ounces per day if provided adequate feed and water on a daily basis. Weighing your market rabbits is important to make sure you are on track to obtain the desired weight at the end of your project. Shelter and Protection Housing can be evaluated with a few factors: ventilation, size, material, temperature, and protection. Ventilation is the process of moving air above and below the cage to decrease temperature and ammonia odor, which can be damaging to a rabbit’s respiratory system. This can be accomplished naturally or mechanically, but you must ensure that direct drafts are not imposed on the rabbits. The ideal temperature for an adult rabbit’s environment is 45–70 degrees Fahrenheit. Housing for rabbits can be maintained either inside or outside a physical structure. Outside facilities require that the rabbits be protected from the weather and predators. Inside housing provides more control of the environment, including better bio-security, but comes with more expense and more ventilation challenges. It is necessary for you to determine the housing plan that fits the current situation you have at home. There are numerous materials that can be utilized to build rabbit cages; however, remember that rabbits are gnawers, meaning they will eat building materials. The material used will depend on whether you have an inside wire cage or an outside cage. The outside cage typically includes (three) plywood or pressed board (sidewalls) and roof to provide necessary protection for the rabbits. Or you may have a hanging cage rack system that is covered. Inside cages will usually be constructed from galvanized welded wire. Inside Housing There are lots of different ways to house your bunnies indoors. Every bunny and every house is different. The most important thing is to provide a home that suits your bunnies and that keeps them safe. As long as they have lots of space, a quiet place to retreat to and plenty of toys, then you will have some very happy bunnies. There are several options to house rabbits inside. They can live free-reign in a bunny proofed room/rooms, or they can be contained within a puppy pen, bunny condo, or large rabbit cage. If contained, their space should always be large enough so they can hop around, and they should be let out of their pen for at least a few hours everyday for exercise. Make sure the primary location of your rabbit is not isolated from you and your family. A family room or living room is a good place. Bunny Proof Your House Rabbits need space to run around and explore. In order to create a safe space for your bunny and to protect your belongings, you will need to thoroughly bunny proof the area. This includes covering all wires with plastic sleeves or flex tubing, or lifting them 3-4 feet out of reach of your rabbit. If you don’t want your baseboards gnawed, you can cover them with plastic guards, 2x4s or furring strips. You’ll also have to block off certain areas since rabbits like to chew the undersides of beds, items on bookshelves, house plants, and more. Basically, your rabbit will try to chew everything in reach. Lots of people have house rabbits that have the run of the house (along with an area to call their own). This is a great option for house bunnies, but it all depends on the fact that your bunnies are well trained enough for this. Safety comes first and if you do not trust your bunnies to be left alone, or if you have other pets, then it is probably best to have them safely enclosed in an area, for when you are not there. Avoid placing rabbits in the same room with barking dogs if possible. Rabbits usually adapt quickly to barking heard from a distance. House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and well-mannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a free-running rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog’s playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). If you want to add another rabbit to your family, rabbits that are neutered adults of opposite sexes work best and they should be introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits. A great set up for a house rabbit is an open top puppy pen. They can be spacious and airy so the rabbit does not feel enclosed as much as they would in a cage. The best height to get is 35in. This will stop any escapes if your bunny was thinking of jumping over the top. Just be careful to not place any items next to the edges that your bunny could climb up on and make it easy for them to jump out. Remember, although puppy pens are a decent size, it is still very important that your bunnies get their daily exercise. If you let your rabbit have free range exercise around the house, increase the free range area gradually, until they are trained. Also decide beforehand what rooms are out of bounds and take precautions for this so your rabbit understands. A good idea is to attach a puppy pen to the dog crate to allow for the extra space. Also note some dog crates can also be difficult to clean out. Pens are also great as you can move them around, change the shape of them etc to suit your space and this adds variety. They also look good and do not clutter a room. Use ordinary cat or dog cages, or cover wire flooring with sections of newspaper (can be messy if bunny digs) or plain, brown corrugated cardboard. If dog cages are used, check to be sure the spacing between the cage wires is small enough to prevent a rabbit's head or limbs from getting stuck. If you have other animals then you will need a pen that comes with a top too for added security. Indoor rabbit/guinea pig cages Indoor rabbit/guinea pig cages – the size of these are usually too small on there own, so to add a puppy pen as additional space would be a great idea. Be aware of indoor rabbit cages with a step up/over at the entrance. They are not rabbit friendly. Old & young rabbits struggle to get in and out of them and if your rabbit needs to sprint into it at speed if something panics them they could injure themselves. The plastic indoor hutches/cages are usually not big enough. Indoor location Where to place your rabbit’s indoor home. The area needs to be quiet, cool, away from drafts, and away from heaters. You should have your rabbit near a window for natural light, but watch for direct light. Near patio doors is a good idea so they can look out, but also be aware they can easily get spooked by predators in the night that walk by patio doors, so you may want to block the view at night with a curtain. Make sure they are not right next to any radiators. Outside housing The list is endless to what people are doing this day and age to provide their bunnies with the most luxurious suitable accommodation. ⦁ Outhouses converted to bunny homes with outside run attached. ⦁ Hutches placed within an aviary ⦁ Dog kennels with the runs attached (these come in all shapes and sizes). ⦁ Sheds (wooden ones only) Plastic or metal ones get too hot. If you are using a hutch only, then make sure it is a decent size for the breed, and they will need an additional area for their exercise time. If you cannot attach a run direct to the cage, you could consider a runaround tunnel to attach them from afar. Always place runs onto concrete slabs to stop your rabbit digging a way out and to stop a predator digging his way in! You can consider a metal puppy pen for exercise as they are reasonably priced and great as they fold away when they are not being used and you can set them up anywhere. You can also buy more than one and make the pen even bigger. Make sure you supervise your rabbit whilst they are exercising in these as they are in no way predator proof. Never leave them unattended. Building your own enclosure Remember the bigger the better for your bunny and for you to as it will be easier to clean out and also you will get so much more entertainment watching your rabbits skip and run at great speeds. Plywood and pine are safe woods: two types of pine wood, Whitewood and Redwood untreated. Galvanized wire no bigger than 1 inch by half inch should be size of squares. Never use wiring with large squares as rats and stoats could get in or cats/foxes could injure your bunny through these gaps. Prime welded wire mesh is best. Predator proofing It is extremely important that all enclosures are made predator proof. ⦁ You need to place your rabbits accommodation on cement slabs to avoid a fox digging in or a rabbit digging out. ⦁ Make sure doors are secure with bolts at the top and bottom for extra security. ⦁ Always provide hideouts – safe places to hide when they get spooked or feel threatened ⦁ Tunnels are good for hide outs. ⦁ Place boards at the front of your enclosure to add extra privacy & to help stop your rabbit getting easily spooked. Weather proofing It is essential especially with certain types of enclosures. You need to protect them from the wind, rain and strong sunlight. Covers can be bought for standard size hutches but can be costly. Corrugated plastic sheeting is a good way to protect from rain and is excellent for roofing. Just watch the clear plastic in the summer as this could heat your enclosure up like a green house very quickly. Place sun reflectors underneath to help stop this. Use bubble wrap or plastic sheeting like builders sheets or plastic dust sheets or tarpaulin for protection from wind and rain. Attach to a piece of wood at the top and hook this to the cage to create your own little roller blind. Or by adding some wooden panels to each side of your enclosure and making them an inch wider than the enclosure allows you to have something to attach the bubble wrap or plastic sheeting to. Metal clips keep it in place very securely when it is very windy. Always leave gaps for air flow. Cover a sheet of wood, wider than the accommodation itself, with felt roofing and place on top of enclosures for added protection. Keep weighted down with bricks or slabs. Large beach mats or windbreakers are ideal for protection Venetian blinds or cane/bamboo blinds are another option. Attach bubble wrap to the inside of them in the winter for added protection Do not use fabric that can get damp as this will draw the heat out of the hutch. If large enclosures like sheds/playhouses have gaps around the top area you can stuff them with bubble wrap to stop drafts. Just make sure its out of reach of your rabbits. Tips for the summer: Wooden sheds/play houses can get very hot in the summer. Try insulating the roof to help keep it cooler. Sun reflectors can help and also large patio umbrellas or shade sails can help. Placing rabbit housing in the shade of trees can also help top keep them cooler. Large floor tiles are good and help keep them cool in the summer also indoors & outdoors. Creating the right environment Whatever you chose to place in your rabbits enclosure, by rearranging the set up every now and then your bunny will think they have a whole new home to explore and this keeps them entertained! Rabbits love "projects" such as objects in their environments that they can move and manipulate. These provide stimulation and exercise. Nest boxes Nest boxes within an enclosure make an ideal place for your rabbit to hide in or to keep warm in. They may also enjoy jumping on top of them. Stuff them full of hay in the winter and your bunny will love it. You could also make them even cosier by putting cardboard around the inside edges in the winter for extra insulation. Cardboard boxes Cardboard boxes provided hours of entertainment and also provide somewhere for your rabbit to run into when they feel threatened. A cardboard "hidey box" placed in the cage can make a rabbit feel more secure. However, this may increase territorial behaviors - particularly in un-spayed females. Boxes are most useful in wire cages, where the rabbit has no other means of hiding himself. Stuff a large cardboard box with hay if you don’t have a small hutch or nest box. The double walled cardboard boxes are best as they are more sturdier and will last that bit longer. You can order them in bulk at quite a reasonable price off the internet. Just check they don’t have staples in. Hay racks Place next to the litter trays to allow your rabbits to eat as they poop which all rabbits love to do and it encourages hay eating. Plant pots, hanging basket racks, utensil holders or fruit bowls can all be good ideas for hay racks. Basically anything that will not harm your rabbits health and if it has holes in can be stuffed with hay and used as a hay rack. The Ikea carrier bag holders are also a big favorite. Or just make a tunnel shape out of galvanized wire and stuff that full of hay. Please watch any items that have large enough gaps in where they could catch their feet or heads. Always make sure the gaps are stuffed well with hay. A good tip is to place grass mats or flat bits of cardboard under the hay racks. This allows you to sweep the spilt hay up very easily and place into the litter tray, so nothing is wasted. Wicker baskets Make sure that it is untreated and made for pets, as treated wicker is highly poisonous. Cheap comfy beds Rabbits love comfort and a good cheap way of providing a pet bed is use a sample square of carpet. You can get these from most carpet shops very cheap, or a flat chair cushion and place them in cotton pillow cases. Pillow cases are also cheap to buy and easy to wash. In the winter you can also include a little blanket. The bunnies love to dig at blankets and push them about. Litter trays and dig trays Litter trays come in all shapes and sizes, but the bigger the tray the more hay you can put in to encourage your rabbit to eat hay whilst he poops. Seed trays and drip trays can be ideal as they do come in big sizes and all kinds of shapes and are cheaper to buy than some actual litter trays. Raised areas filled with soil or filled with grass turf are a great way of adding some natural materials if the floor is all concrete slabs, or simply use a few flower pots full of soil. Seed trays and drip trays are also great for placing soil or grass turf in. Make ramps safe Make ramps safe and rabbit friendly by covering with carpet or a mat. You can also add bits of wood to create a step effect and allow your rabbit to have more grip on the ramp. Never position a ramp too steep as this could result in an injury. You can place a sturdy item like a large garden stone/brick or the wooden hideouts you can buy to raise the ramp up at the bottom more, so its not so steep. Flooring All flooring for inside and outside accommodation should be non slip to avoid your rabbit injuring themselves. Ceramic tiles are a good way of protecting wooden flooring to outside enclosures like sheds & hutches. If you use newspaper, place them underneath the paper. Feeding The 3 most important foods for a rabbit are hay, hay, and HAY! Contrary to popular belief, rabbits do not need salt licks, vitamins, or hard wooden objects to wear their teeth down. Teeth are kept worn to a proper length by the silicate and lignin content of grass and grass. hays. Do not offer rabbits plants, vegetation, or tree branches unless you are sure they are not harmful. Rabbits are unique in the fact that they are susceptible to digestive disturbances. To lower this susceptibility, they use a process called cecotrophy to maintain balance in their digestive system. Cecotrophy is the process of ingesting feces, typically done at night. The ingestion of the soft feces, or cecotropes, increases protein digestibility and energy digestion for the rabbit. Nutrition The most important nutrient you can provide your rabbit is water. Access to fresh, clean water is necessary for rabbits to maintain proper growth rate and body condition. Fresh, clean water is a must during the summer months, because rabbits do not tolerate heat well and depend on water to cool their bodies. Fresh water needs to be changed daily. Double check to see that the steel ball in the bottle is working properly each time you hang the bottle. Bowl (changed daily) encourages more drinking. The bowl should be heavy crock to prevent tipping. Pellets: Commercially produced rabbit pellets provide a complete diet for rabbits. When you add supplements on a daily basis, you are altering the balanced diet provided by the pellets. Supplements should be used carefully or used as an occasional treat for your rabbits in order to minimize their effect on the balanced diet. Limited pellets (plain only! no seeds, nuts, colored tidbits): 1/4 cup, per 5 lbs of body weight per day. Consideration for appropriate nutrition depends upon the stage of production, added supplements, environmental temperature, quality of pellets, and access to water. Crude protein (CP) is the major nutrient we assess because the fiber is fairly consistent in most commercially produced rabbit pellets. Crude protein feed recommendations are 16–18% for growing market rabbits; 14–16% for maintaining body weight on mature rabbits (non-breeding stock); and 16–18% for stock in active breeding. Other Foods Dark Green leafy veggies daily if possible. Good veggies: all dark green leaf lettuces, dandelion greens, kale, collards, turnip greens, mustard greens, parsley, cilantro, basil, Avoid: cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, spinach. Limited amounts of sweet veggies such as carrots. Occasional treats in very low quantities: slice of apple, slice of banana, a few hulled sunflower seeds, 2-inch piece of carrot. For more frequent treats, use fragrant herbs such as cilantro, parsley, arugula, and basil. Do not feed bread or-other high-carbohydrate foods, as they can lead to intestinal dysbiosis. Groom Your Rabbit Grooming list for your rabbit: A flea comb, brush, flea products safe for rabbits, toenail clippers. Rabbits are naturally clean animals and wash themselves frequently, but you still need to groom your rabbit on a regular basis. Rabbits go through shedding cycles a couple times a year. It’s important to brush your rabbit to remove all the excess fur. Otherwise, your rabbit could ingest it and have serious digestive issues. Regular nail clipping is also important because long nails can get snagged on things or they can curl into your rabbit’s paw. General Care & Socialization If possible, talk to the rabbit calmly and stroke them daily. Rabbits are highly social animals who thrive on attention and social interaction. Many rabbits are very overtly affectionate, and will nuzzle and lick their handlers. Others are shyer and more "laid back." Try not approach the rabbit from directly in front. Rabbits have laterally placed eyes and cannot see up close, directly in front of themselves. When working with an unfamiliar rabbit, pat the rabbit gently between the eyes, til he relaxes, before picking him up. Never attempt to lift a rabbit who is struggling. Rabbits can easily break their own backs attempting to get away from perceived predators. Handling Rabbits are light-boned animals. Because of this, improper handling can easily injure a rabbit. Rabbits should be handled from a young age, after weaning, and handled often. Never pick up a rabbit by its ears, by the skin on the back, or by the scruff of the neck. Doing so can injure the rabbit and damage flesh condition. Rabbits are easily frightened and may react differently in an unfamiliar situation. A very tame rabbit at home may become stressed and frightened at a show. Never place the rabbit near your face! A rabbit’s toenails can scratch deeply. Lift the rabbit by supporting his hindquarters and forequarters simultaneously. If the rabbit struggles to get down once lifted, lower yourself and the rabbit as close as possible to the floor to prevent injury. If your rabbit will be a pet, have the rabbits spayed/neutered. Besides preventing accidental litters, spaying prevents uterine cancer which can reach 50-80% as rabbits age, and neutering reduces spraying and other hormone-driven behaviors. Always remember that rabbits are a prey species. The more predictable their environment and the more securely they are handled, the more relaxed and sociable they become. Many rabbits relinquished to shelters have been severely traumatized in their former environments. They may have learned to survive by nipping or boxing. These behaviors can usually be eliminated by correct handling and social interaction. Rabbits are highly territorial, and may also attempt to nip or box when their territory is "invaded." This is especially true of un-spayed females. This behavior is entirely normal, and is usually greatly reduced by spaying/neutering. If a rabbit boxes when you offer food or clean the cage, place one hand on the rabbit's head and gently press and rub, while using the other hand to remove food bowl, or litter-box, etc. A rabbit who has suddenly stopped eating or whose eating patterns have suddenly changed needs immediate veterinary attention. Health/Vaccinations Rabbits are typically low-maintenance animals when it comes to health and vaccinations. There are no vaccinations that are mandatory recommended for rabbits, and just a few medications that are actually labeled for use on rabbits. Healthy rabbits have a normal temperature range of 101.3–104.0 degrees Fahrenheit, a resting heart rate of 180–250 beats/minute, and a constantly moving nose. Most veterinarians do not have much experience with treating rabbits. This requires you as the owner to become familiar with signs of common diseases and ailments. Your observation will be integral for maintaining health among your rabbits on a daily basis. If you think your rabbit needs medication, consult your veterinarian to determine the appropriate medication and dosage level. Rabbits have a sympathetic nervous system. This creates a real challenge in determining the correct dosage of medication needed for a sick rabbit. Providing too much medication (overdosing) is toxic. Un-derdosing, or giving too little medication, is ineffective at treating the condition. There are four administration routes that can be utilized in rabbits. They include oral, subcutaneous (nape of neck), intravenous (veins in feet), and intramuscular (hind leg or back muscle). The American Rabbit Breeder Association has a Rabbit and Cavy Health Committee that can field questions about doctoring rabbits. Health problems that are common in rabbits: Intestinal blockages Because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they can get fur-balls just as cats do. Unlike cats, however, rabbits cannot vomit, and excessive swallowed hair may cause a fatal blockage. Rabbits can also develop a serious condition known as GI stasis which has many of the same symptoms. If your rabbit shows a decrease in appetite and in the size of droppings, get advice from a rabbit veterinarian. If you keep your bunny brushed (less hair is swallowed) and give them a handful of hay daily, this should help with blockages. Bacterial issues A rabbit’s digestive tract is inhabited by healthful bacteria. If the good bacteria balance is upset by stale food or a sudden change in diet, harmful bacteria can take over the digestive track and kill the rabbit. If you keep all rabbit food in a cool dry place and make dietary changes slowly, giving a new food in small amounts, this should help. If no abdominal gurgling or loose stool results in 24 hours, the food may be offered again. If your rabbit goes outside, check for pesticides and toxic plants. Infectious bacteria Many rabbit diseases are caused by bacteria, not viruses, and can be treated with antibiotics. If your rabbit shows symptoms of a “cold,” take him to a veterinarian familiar with antibiotics that can be safely used in rabbits. Oral drugs of the Penicillin family, such as Amoxicillin, should NOT be given to a rabbit, since there is risk of destroying good intestinal bacteria. Find an experienced veterinarian before a problem develops. If your rabbit has been harassed by a predator, take him to a veterinarian even if no injuries are apparent. When it is over, keep your rabbit cool with nearby wet towels or ice. Regularly check your rabbit’s eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings, as you would in any cat or dog. Transportation Rabbits should travel in cages specifically designed for them. Purchase a rabbit carrier that is the correct size for the age and breed of your rabbit. Do not transport a rabbit in a box! A rabbit can become overheated easily and die quickly as a result. Hot weather conditions can be dangerous for a rabbit. It is best to place rabbits in an air-conditioned vehicle for transport. If this is not possible, keep windows rolled down and air circulating. For long-distance travel, rabbits should be in carriers and covered with large sheets of cardboard or similar items to block the sunlight. A thin sheet of foam placed under the cages will help cushion the ride, keeps cages from slipping or tipping, and protects the car’s interior. Place an absorbent, generous quantity of bedding or a canine house-training pad in the bottom of the carrier tray to help absorb any wastes or spilled water. Secure water and feed pans inside the carrier. There are specially designed pans for carrier use. To avoid spillage, provide only a small amount of water during transport. Most rabbits will not eat or drink during a ride. If stopping, be certain to keep the vehicle cool. Park in a shaded area or keep the car’s air conditioning operating. If cool outside, roll down windows. Handling rabbits during transport can heighten stress resulting in increased body temperature. Secure cage doors with zip ties. Carry your own water from home as changing water sources can upset the rabbit’s digestion. Watering the rabbit through the carrier is easily accomplished by using a houseplant watering can with a narrow spout. If taking several rabbits on a journey, invest in a wheeled cart on which the carriers fit easily. Many types of these carts are available. Rabbits are adorable, affectionate pets that you can fit into your family with a little time and effort. For the most part, rabbits should be kept inside for them to thrive and keep them safe and healthy. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals who need affection, and they can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families just as any rabbit should! http://petpav.com/rabbit-care-101-tips-to-care-for-your-newly-adopted-rabbit/ https://www.spca.org/page.aspx?pid=430 http://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-care/care-pet-rabbit/ https://www.avma.org/public/PetCare/Pages/Selecting-a-Pet-Rabbit.aspx http://www.bunnyhugga.com/a-to-z/general/history-rabbits.html http://best4bunny.com/bunny-care/housing-ideas/ https://rabbit.org/ordinances-protecting-rabbits/ http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Rabbit_sale_laws_in_the_US https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/4h-31     © Copyrighted

DWR 041 1922 (2017) Part of Dream Warrior Review podcast series with Miq Strawn and Kurt Thomas.  Featuring Reviews of Horror and Science Fiction Films. Also Featuring Story Time With Miq. In this episode Outhouses and Flying... not Flying Outhouses!   Music By Charred Walls of the Damned Time Has Passed from Creatures Watching over the Dead   E-mail us at DreamWarriorReview@gmail.com or check us out on Twitter or Facebook @DWReview

“America is not about where you came from,” Rabbi Ammiel Hirsch says in this sermon. “It's about where you want to go.”

On this weeks episode, Jose and Jack Teach you how to tie a tie step by step, Samuels Birth!, Living with parents that smoke, and Jose's Outhouse mishap, plus a lady that flooded an airplane bathroom. Find us on Instagram! - @Carreon_Photography - @Jack_TheBeard https://www.cxxiiapparel.com https://trufitathleticclubs.com/club/bandera/Support the show (http://bit.ly/2PkE3hM)

“America is not about where you came from,” Rabbi Ammiel Hirsch says in this sermon. “It’s about where you want to go.”

Camp stories are great, especially when they challenge everything about the way you do life.

Brandon Howard from Amalga Distillery joins us to talk all about starting up a new business in Juneau, and how he went from pottery teacher to cookin’ up hooch. Also,...

Episode 007 - In which we talk to our friend Libby Stringer who works in a goldmine and owns tiny dogs.

This week we tell you how to choose the best name ever for your baby and investigate an old outhouse mystery.

Special guest Jason Snell joins the show on the cusp of Apple’s September 9 event, where the company will purportedly introduce two new iPhones and a breakthrough wearable device. Topics include the purpose and advantages of a 5.5-inch iPhone, why only the 5.5-inch iPhone will (I think) get an @3x retina display, speculation on the nature and purpose of an Apple wearable/watch, the intrigue surrounding the event’s venue, and more.

What does Jamie wear when he's fishing? Where does he poop? Do people really have sex under the Northern Lights? Deb's advice to everyone: Check your pockets!!!! All this and more!!!

The X-Files. Charles Bloom. Outhouses. Fonts. Shrinkage. Truth. ClearType. Singers. The FBI. Chrome. Yoga. Zodiak. SafeSearch. Superpowers. Colombo. DNS redirectors. Programmers. Freud. Bing. Flash.

In this edition I talk about the need for unity, interview diaconal candidate Sbdn. Borislav, listen to Pawlo talk about ways to conserve water (outhouses!?), and rant about health care, zoning, and autocephaly.