The Power Company Podcast

When it comes to putting effort into climbing, there are 3 types of climber. All can be effective, but one type is ALWAYS better. Which are you?   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

Not all training needs to be indoors. If you're lucky enough to be able to spend a large amount of your time outside, it might make sense to use some of that time for training rather than performance. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss examples of how we can do this without sacrificing our performance time. _________________________

Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques. But you're probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don't need to get stronger. They need to get better. They need a better understanding of the move itself...   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me. There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13. It's not better footwork, it's not a stronger pull-up, and it's not more finger strength. Those things can – and often do – play a big part. But if you don't have this one skill dialed in, those things may be rendered nearly useless...   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early. The best climbers put themselves into send position with fewer working attempts, and know when they are ready to get it done.  So the question is: How can we make better use of our working goes and send hard things faster? _________________________

There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you're at. And you can implement it right now. I'm going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost...   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training.   This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. _________________________

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed.  This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018. _________________________

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which? This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018. _________________________

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing?   This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018. _________________________

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing?   This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018. _________________________

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80's, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it.  Belgian climbing legend Arnould T'Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a.  Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80's and 90's, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushing grades in the 80's. The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit. The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger. The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's. The benefits of friendly competition at the crag. The first actual comps. Tribout playing the villain. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's. Check out the new book! 

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners. Check out all of Joy's courses. Sign up for Joy's newsletter. Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout! Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training. _________________________

This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the conversation with each of them explaining their sight loss and their relationship to climbing. Follow EBC on Instagram. Follow Justin on Instagram. Follow Seneida on Instagram. Follow Chaz on Instagram. _________________________

Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers. Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts. Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram. _________________________

Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top, released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes _________________________

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble _________________________

Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs, features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She's got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups.  But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid climbing workshop at the Adaptive Climbers Fest in the Red River Gorge. Aid climbing is part of how Melissa has been able to access outdoor climbing with her disability, which is cerebral palsy. We pick up the conversation as she's explaining her condition and throughout the episode we talk about the importance of core strength, the joy of outdoor climbing, and what grades really mean. Follow Melissa on Instagram. Follow EBC on Instagram. _________________________

Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back.   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course!  _________________________

Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing.  Three years ago Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier. Watch the film. _________________________

Nate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing.  Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram and YouTube. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Check out our NEW Atomic Elements Movement Course. _________________________

Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb.  It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Watch the video of Kris failing to commit. Read more and see the video for this episode on the blog. _________________________

Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community.  Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issues like postpartum recovery, and more – topics rarely explored in climbing media. Learn more about Hand Holds. Support the project through Seed & Spark. Support the project through The Gotham Film & Media Institute. _________________________

Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She's spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniques, like working on fear of falling, and analyzing movement and technique with video feedback and visualization.” Host Emily Chen-Newton and Fallon share a genetic collagen disorder (Ehlers-Danlos syndrome). In this conversation they talk how this condition impacts their climbing – and how Fallon coached Emily through some of these issues. Fallon also has a condition called, POTS which you'll hear mentioned in this episode. It's a dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system. Things that should be “automatic go haywire”, she says. So, her body doesn't properly regulate things like blood pressure, heart rate and temperature. Fallon's main symptom is lightheadedness or pre-syncope (the feeling you get before you faint).  Fallon is also a rock-climbing guide and teaches courses on trad climbing, anchor building, and more. She is sponsored by The Desert Rat, Cypher Climbing, HILX Eyewear, and Crux Power. Her education as a geologist gives her a deep connection to nature, and she loves playing the fiddle, shooting pool, wandering the desert, writing and photographing climbing. We start this episode with Fallon talking about a recent time when she was digging into some of those "non climbing" hobbies as she was recovering from a tendon tweak. BUT, as she tells us, this injury hit differently than others in the past -- in a good way.  *While Fallon Rowe and host Emily both discuss their medical conditions and how they've learned to live with them, this content is not, and does not replace medical advice. Fallon can be reached on Instagram @fallonclimbs or on her website. Aug 2-4th workshop  How to climb with hEDS Climbing with POTS What is hEDS? What is POTS? Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!   In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already! _________________________

You're scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you've got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you're warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn't matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you've been plateaued and need to level up right now. The good news is that you don't have to stop consuming all of the information and trying new things and learning as much as possible. You can keep at it. Collect it all. But...   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!   In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon! Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratterman, Matt, Martin Bertram, Lydia Benitez, and Yoav Pinto for the great questions! _________________________

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you're one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I'm going to tell you why, and I'm going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don't fall into this trap. Or if you're in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020. They'll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.   This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022. ____________________

Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he's recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that “letting go” in this episode. Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers. Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers, while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast. Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When she's not reporting, she's rock climbing with her husband and their two cats.   Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________

Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a.  They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more.  This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part!   Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show. Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram. Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon. _________________________

Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He's the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing.  He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world. In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, what makes Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki special, and what makes the Japanese team so good. Find Udo online at udini.com and on YouTube. _________________________

Where's the first place your mind goes when you don't stick a move? If you're like most climbers, it's probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you're already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout. But it's possible you're looking in the wrong direction entirely...   Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that might get them there. Check out Tension Climbing and use code STONE at checkout for 10% off of select training tools! _________________________

Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it's part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she's worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet.  In this episode, we discuss why she chose to also do in-person sessions alongside her remote coaching with Blake, what's going well, how she fits the training and sessions into her busy life, and how the movement skills are showing up in her climbing. Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing and on Instagram  Check out her Fast Track climbing movement course Listen to The Average Climber Podcast Book a remote consultation with Nate Drolet. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. _________________________

For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell.  Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell.  Pull on again, try the move again, fall off.  Again You get it. You've been there. But there's a better way. In this episode, we're going to talk about the obvious thing that most climbers are missing when it comes to difficult moves and learn several strategies that will help you do those harder moves, harder boulders, and harder routes faster.  Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________

Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He's the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers. In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.   Find Taylor online at: The Beta Angel Project International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) _________________________

A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they're wrong. In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we'll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you've been at it. _________________________

Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it's only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it's just a hold. So use it. And if you don't want to because you'd rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, that's fine, too. There's no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. There's no shame in using a hold other people aren't. What's possible, though, is that if you always choose one way or the other, then you've painted yourself into a corner. A corner that just doesn't offer as many opportunities to learn. So there's a question that both of you should be asking yourselves. And that question is: Can I do it both ways? Can I become more adaptable? That's two questions, but you know what I mean...   Read the rest at the blog! _________________________

Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we've always done it.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing. This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020. ____________________

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He's also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Our entire movement skills resource library Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode Follow Rob on Instagram Check out The Perception & Action Podcast Check out Rob's books: How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:00) Guest Introduction (2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories (7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides (9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods (11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing (18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards (20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach (23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching (25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example (28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing (30:23) Perception and Action Coupling (33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders (35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit? (37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill (40:45) Wrap Up  

Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He's been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Our entire movement skills resource library Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode Follow Rob on Instagram Check out The Perception & Action Podcast Check out Rob's books: How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (1:31) Guest Introduction (3:20) Topic Explanation (5:18) Accessibility (6:13) Impenetrability (7:33) Generalizability (8:43) ANNOTATION: Don't Discount Small Studies (10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions (11:49) How to Make it User Friendly (19:34) The Value of Case Studies (22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables (24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability (26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies? (30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle (33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports (37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization (40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism (43:27) Wrap Up

Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we're going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that you'll hear more about later, as well as on Youtube, Instagram, the blog, and the newsletter, for the next 10 or so episodes we're going to be digging deep into movement and skill acquisition: the research, the theories, anecdotes and experiences, and of course, practical application. And Patrons will be getting bonus episodes on the same topic. At the end of the two or so months, we'll wrap it all up with a podcast episode and a newsletter. We're aiming for 3 or 4 of these FOCUS periods this year; we hope you'll tune in to see how it goes. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Mentioned in this episode: Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos Taped Tips | Connect the Dots Written In Stone Movement Practice Resources The Current   You might also enjoy these related episodes: Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing P.O.E. with Will Anglin & Rowland Chen ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster.  In this bonus episode from our Patron feed, Kris and Nate discuss 3 of their Top 6 Indoor Lessons. To hear their 3 favorites as well, you can get those bonus episodes on Patreon or in your Apple Podcast Feed or on Spotify by subscribing to the We Scream Like Eagles Podcast. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER You might also enjoy this related episode: BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Introduction (00:01:24) Topic Explanation (00:07:13) Be Picky About Projects (00:15:11) Below Project Level, Climb Everything (00:27:51) Climbing With and Around Crowds (00:35:30) Warming Up Well (00:42:11) Walk Away When it Makes Sense (00:48:24) View Climbing as Training or Practice (01:01:00) Outro

Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their top 5 lessons from climbing outside that, when taken indoors, can help us become better climbers faster.   Check out our Proven Plans to streamline your training. Comment Card blog post mentioned in the episode. You might also enjoy BOARD MEETINGS: Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools.   You might also enjoy BOARD MEETINGS: The Art of Learning Climbing   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.   CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Introduction and Topic Explanation (00:05:55) Using and Practicing Better Tactics (00:14:32) Bring Mid-Session Snacks or Food (00:25:44) Go In With a Plan (00:28:38) Power Company Proven Plans (00:29:18) Set Goals (00:35:47) Not Complaining About the Setting (00:48:57) Outro

With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools.   You might also enjoy BOARD MEETINGS: The Art of Learning Climbing   CHAPTERS: (0:00) Intro (2:22) Topic Explanation (4:27) MicroLearning (5:39) More Content Isn't Better (9:30) Actively Participating (14:32) The Problem with Social Media Discourse (18:54) What to Prioritize (23:18) Entertainment vs. Education (25:21) Find the Voices that Resonate (32:43) Recognize the Biases (39:56) Follow the Topic (43:25) Just in Case vs. Just in Time (50:03) Learning from Video (58:23) Shape the Algorithm (1:04:04) Create Playlists and Saved Folders (1:06:01) Taking Notes and Making it Stick (1:10:00) Don't Forget the Past Information (1:12:00) Writing About What You've Learned (1:17:35) The Things We Are Changing (1:35:38) Outro   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all... ...which route was really the world's first 9a? Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.   This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio. Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.  

Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite's Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formidable Hazel Findlay solidified her status as one of the strongest trad climbers in the world with the send. She reflected on her experience working the line at her blog, which is a must-read. Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send, strategies she no doubt called on to take down Magic Line. She talks breathing techniques, pre-climbing rituals, flow state, and more. When this episode was recorded, Hazel was just beginning her journey into being a professional coach, and she has since continued along that path, founding Strong Mind, which specializes in mental training for climbers, and also the Strong Mind Podcast, which she hosts. If you're interested in learning more about Hazel and Strong Mind's offerings, check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course!   Read Hazel's blog about her Magic Line experience. Check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course. Check out Strong Mind online. Follow Hazel on Instagram. This episode originally aired on September 3, 2017.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.