Podcasts about hangboard

Hangboard-Training ist wohl eine der besten Methoden, um stärker zu werden und sein Leistungsniveau zu verschieben. Doch natürlich gibt es nicht nur eine Möglichkeit, am Hangboard zu trainieren. Wäre auch merkwürdig, immerhin gibt es auch nicht nur eine Methode, um Kraft zu trainieren. Die Frage ist immer: Welche Art von Kraft brauche ich, wo liegen meine Defizite, und wenn ich das weiß, kann ich auch die richtige Wahl für das Hangboard-Training treffen. Egal ob IK-, Maximum Weight-, Minimum Edge-, intermittierende Ausdauer- oder intensive Intervallmethode, in dieser Folge tauchen alle auf, und ich erkläre dir, wie du das richtige Trainingsmodell für dich auswählst, was du dafür brauchst und worauf du bei dem Ganzen achten solltest.____________Exklusive Trainingsfolgen, Trainingspläne, Technikanalysen & Kletterdesigns findest du auf meiner Webseite: ⁠⁠⁠⁠https://einfachfesthalten.de/⁠⁠⁠⁠Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen, kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden oder Steady nutzen, um meinen Podcast am Leben zu erhalten.Steady:⁠⁠⁠⁠https://steadyhq.com/de/einfachfesthalten/about?utm_campaign=discover_search&utm_source=steady_discover⁠⁠⁠⁠_________________Insbesondere Spitzenathleten wie Alexander Megos, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki und viele weitereAthleten*innen wissen, wie man optimal trainiert. Mein Ziel in diesem Podcast ist es unter anderem, dir den Weg zu ebnen, ebenfalls effektiv und mit einem optimalen Training Spitzenleistungen zu erbringen.

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith's background(00:10:05) – Natalie's background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie's experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What's happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie's dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar's study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon

How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!Use Code ‘NUGGET' for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:08) – Banter(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature's origin story(00:10:56) – Early holds(00:12:28) – Mads' climbing background(00:16:28) – Pawel's marketing background(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected(00:27:15) – Mads' dream(00:28:32) – Pawel's career pivot(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect(00:55:51) – Buying holds(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for(01:06:53) – Developing new products(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit(01:10:48) – World Cup routes(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles(01:23:00) – Proudest of(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch(01:29:54) – Training on granite(01:33:39) – Discount code

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________

Coach Tom Randall is BACK, and this time we've got 5 climbers joining the party! Tom coaches climbers from a wide-range of backgrounds on their climbing issues, including: How to train for resting better on route Overcoming mental blocks of not feeling ready to push into the next grade When to shift from a performance phase to weight training phase How much the average climber should focus on climbing vs off-the-wall training How to identify and then train up the three endurance energy systems How to build endurance on nothing but a hang board Tall climber issues and how to address them in the gym vs out on rock Blowing Ryan's mind about the measurement system in the UK   Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:   Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.  Boulder Bears: Taste like candy, kick like coffee! Each caffeinated gummy bear contains collagen and 20mg of caffeine so you can take care of your tendons while dialing in the perfect level of boost and focus for your sesh. Plus, they're crazy delicious. Score a free travel pack plus 15% off using code STRUGGLE!  Arc'teryx Climb Academy: Set against the stunning backdrop of Squamish, BC, this is your place to level up your climbing and have an unforgettable time - no matter your skill level. From clinics taught by top athletes to film premieres and live music, it's 3 days of inspiration, education, and community. Clinics go on sale May 9th! Rungne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com   And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! James talks about training with Ollie Torr, using a fingerboard as his primary training for 'Bon Voyage', how to train tweaky grip positions, why he prefers repeater to max hangs, getting stronger while only training 10 hours total per week, how he climbed his first V15 (8C) in his mid-30s, advice for new trad climbers, supporting a family as a pro climber, renovating old houses, futuristic trad lines, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:11:33.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan's back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan's most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan's trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn's Question: Ethan's back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn's Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv's Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson's repeat of Black Beard's Tears, and Ethan's FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv's Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv's Question: Chris Linder's route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis' Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin's Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin's Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan's thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin's Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin's Question: Ethan's thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody's Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel's Question: Ethan's thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan's Question: Which climber's superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob's Question: Ethan's thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won't make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren's Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob's Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars' Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor's Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper's Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke's Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

It's another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-bennNuggets:0:04:26 – Izzo's legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors0:14:47 – Charlie's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:19:06 – Adam's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:26:21 – The boys' skin0:29:22 – Noah's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:34:01 – Ben's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:37:20 – Charlie's coach role on the trip0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home0:40:46 – Noah's first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn's worn-out Nikes0:42:56 – Getting hooked0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte0:58:41 – Brother dynamics1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie's big win on Mooiste Meisei1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy's send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin' Large and The Finnish Line1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn's World Cup aspirations1:24:24 – Noah's finger strength1:26:16 – Board gods1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades1:37:38 – Noah's experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?1:42:43 – Adam's weaknesses1:43:26 – Noah's weaknesses1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses1:49:37 – Benn's weaknesses1:52:37 – Adam's proudest FAs1:54:14 – Noah's proudest FAs1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam1:57:34 – Benn's proudest FAs1:59:23 – Charlie's proudest FAs2:01:36 – Ethan's FA of Wet Dream when he was 172:06:29 – Ethan's proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop2:08:13 – Ethan's big wall FA in Greenland in 20122:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations2:19:24 – Three more goals each2:24:07 – Airstar2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands2:32:16 – These boys are the future

In this second installment of the “Common Sense Training Series,” I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about finger training with their clients and themselves in the pursuit of gaining finger strength and keeping everyone's fingers healthy and injury-free. Basically, they both feel like this topic is extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what you should be thinking about when you're trying to plan your finger training protocol. Matt talks about his minimal hangs protocol that he does every day, how that might apply to you, and why he thinks it's so effective. Alex talks about how she incorporates finger training into her warm-ups with a hangboard and in her climbing sessions just on the wall. They each give examples of some of their clients' sustainable finger training protocols. Sustainability is a huge theme in this conversation because most of the time, people go in over their heads with finger training plans and they just can't be sustained with busy schedules. Then they give their 3 most important tips for making an effective, sustainable finger training plan for yourself. As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did. Show Links Get Alex's 5.12 Breakthrough Series for 35% off until Friday, July 28th, 2023. Try out the Bouldering Program by Coach Matt Pincus at the new $18 price Work with Matt as your coach Work with Alex as your coach   Bouldering Training Program If you're tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn't cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years. There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You'll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you'll be gaining all-day capacity. Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. You get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you and you can cancel at any time. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results, all for just $18 per month. CHECK OUT THE BOULDERING PROGRAM    

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip,  fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make. Listen to Eric's original two-part episode:EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returnsNuggets:0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself0:50:24 – Bad days happen0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else's training plan1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap1:51:02 – Wrap up

Music – “Wake up” by Josh Woodward. Free download: http://joshwoodward.com/ Webseite: https://einfachfesthalten.de/ https://www.instagram.com/klettern.einfachfesthalten/ +++ Shownotes +++ IK - Training: Übungen: 2 - 3 / Belastung: 100% / Wiederholungen: 1 - 2 / Pause: 3 - 5 min. / Serien pro Übung: 4 - 5 / Serien insgesamt: 5 - 10 IK - Training am Hangboard: Übungen/Griffarten: 2 - 3 / Belastung: 100% / Hängzeit: 3 - 5 Sek. / Pause: 3 - 5 min. / Serien pro Übung: 4 - 5 / Serien insgesamt: 5 - 10

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he's had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler's Other Episodes:EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)

Music – “Wake up” by Josh Woodward. Free download: http://joshwoodward.com/ Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden. Trainingspläne & Technikanalysen findest du auf meiner Webseite. Schreib mich einfach an. Webseite: https://einfachfesthalten.de/ E-Mail: kontakt@einfachfesthalten.de +++ Shownotes +++ Maximalkraft am Hangboard: 8 - 12 Sekunden hängen, 1 - 2 min. Pause, 4 - 5 Wiederholungen, 2 - 3 min. Setpause (Pause zwischen den Sets; Ein Set besteht aus 4 - 5 mal hängen a 8 - 12 Sekunden), Fingerposition wechseln nach jedem Set. (2 - 3 Verschiedene), 4 - 8 Sets insgesamt. Ausdauerkraft am Hangboard: 7 Sekunden hängen : 3 Sekunden Pause, 7 - 11 Wiederholungen, 2 min. Setpause (Pause zwischen den Sets; Ein Set besteht aus 7 - 11 Wiederholungen a 7:3), Fingerposition wechseln nach jedem Set (2 - 3 Verschiedene), 9 - 13 Sets insgesamt.

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned's three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed's Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon' E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-greshamNuggets:0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure's 80-foot whipper0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching0:58:52 – “People don't realize how hard they can climb.”1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing1:14:59 – Don't expect your project to feel easy1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you're feeling weak1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training1:32:42 – Neil's go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra's rule for antagonist training1:36:57 – Neil's strength protocol for finger extensor training1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil's climbing and training2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard2:11:08 – Thumb crimping2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally2:16:34 – Why Neil's climbing shot up between ages 45 and 502:23:33 – Neil's golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training2:27:33 – Finding balance2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil

This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric. 1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present. 2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022. 3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >> 5:45 - Interview begins... 8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present. 15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training. 18:20 - Finger strength training past and present. 22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming. 24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases. 30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training). 32:30 - Performance profiling and testing. 36:00 - Movement quality assessment. 37:40 - Uno Neumann movement videos. 40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond! 41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more. 43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often! 44:10 - "Copy cat" training. 45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends". 48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training). 49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers unperformance their strength testing results. 50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside. 53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too! 55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons. 1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall. 1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich. 1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance. 1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers. 1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers. 1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:04:24.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt's Originial Episode:EP 39: Matt Fultz

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelleNuggets:0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves' name, and living in Ottawa0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)0:54:14 – Yves' session load calculator spreadsheet0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles1:00:45 – Jazz1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What' V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training1:13:58 – Micro edge training1:15:39 – Contact strength training1:19:20 – Summary of Yves' top 3 finger training methods1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?1:22:39 – Yves' full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves' grip positions and anatomy)1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere' and Hueco1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?1:39:28 – One of Yves' favorite coaches to learn from1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships1:47:41 – Yves' daughters and gymnastics1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process1:53:10 – Be present1:54:39 – Wrap up

Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey's husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned's approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10%  off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehallyNuggets:0:07:43 – Staying in a gite in Fontainbleau0:09:45 – Shauna Coxsey's husband0:11:07 – A background on Ned's climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield0:16:51 – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s0:21:01 – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve0:22:57 – Ned's philosophy for improving at climbing, being well rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly0:28:20 – Ned's dimensions, “If that's how you're built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber0:32:08 – The leap in Ned's climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)0:35:29 – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?0:39:40 – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing0:45:25 – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions0:47:35 – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training0:52:05 – An annual overview of Ned's finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals0:56:11 – How much variety should you have in your finger training?0:59:24 – Training one grip type per session1:02:12 – The genetic component of finger strength1:05:54 – How Ned structures a week of finger training1:10:19 – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions1:14:25 – Ned's thoughts on only training half crimp1:16:33 – The balance of Ned's finger training and outdoor climbing1:20:19 – Ned's home wall, and making his own wooden holds1:22:19 – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?1:24:21 – Ned's thinking about using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders1:26:11 – Structuring a board session (bouldering)1:28:28 – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character1:32:09 – Targeting move types in a sessions1:32:55 – Bouldering with ankle weights1:39:42 – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process1:42:38 – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries1:48:26 – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?1:54:01 – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard1:55:55 – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?1:57:09 – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?2:00:19 – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?2:02:29 – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation2:03:59 – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?2:05:13 – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?2:06:12 – Ned's stretching routine2:10:14 – Science podcasts2:11:19 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?2:12:29 – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade2:17:12 – Flashing ‘Trust Issues' V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset2:20:40 – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!2:23:58 – What's next for Beastmaker2:25:19 – Where to buy the book (links in show notes)

Tim Emmett is a professional climber from the UK who practices everything from cutting edge ice climbing to deep water soloing to hard sport climbing. We talked about the gritstone scene in the UK, the “why” behind taking risk, climbing his hardest after age 40 and becoming a parent, training finger strength to try to climb ‘Era Vella' 9a (5.14d), and passing on life philosophies to others.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tim-emmettNuggets:0:07:15 – Being a morning person as a parent0:10:33 – Coffee and morning rituals0:12:00 – Podcasting as an excuse to have amazing conversations0:17:29 – The Gritstone scene “back in the day”, living with Neil Gresham in Sheffield, and falling off of the ‘End of the Affair' E80:22:50 – Tim explains the gritstone E grade system0:24:15 – Trying for the second ascent of ‘Meshuga', and close calls on the grit0:35:43 – The “Why” behind grit climbing0:42:45 – The opportunity to do things you find easy, vs. things you find difficult or challenging, and how breakdowns lead to breakthroughs0:45:32 – Creativity, and why taking risk is an essential step in doing your best work0:47:10 – “People want to look good”, embracing vulnerability, and choosing the meaning we give to our lives0:51:10 – Letting go of being “right”0:52:54 – Switching to an “us” perspective, and asking questions rather than telling0:55:31 – The ego journey, and doing things that bring us into the moment1:04:40 – Trying ‘Era Vella' 5.14d (9a), and Tim's journey of discovery, and changing the word “failure” to “learning”1:09:47 – What Tim has changed to try to get higher on ‘Era Vella', the magic of finger strength training, and the 10 dials1:12:15 – How Tim became a stronger climber after turning 40 and becoming a parent, and some of Tim's inspirations in climbing1:20:46 – Being out in nature, Tim's philosophy for staying stoked, and choosing to see the positive1:28:13 – “The magic formula is having strong fingers.”1:33:03 – How some specific training and some consistency can transform your climbing1:34:21 – Tim's 4-month protocol for getting ready for ‘Era Vella' (eating whole foods, cutting alcohol, running, etc.)1:41:51 – Recent injuries, and Tim's progress on the hangboard1:48:39 – How Tim's climbing fitness ebbs and flows,  how he structures his 4-month lead up to a goal, and his specific strength training plan for ‘Era Vella'1:59:26 – How Tim and his friends would train for hard ice climbing in Helmken Falls2:01:00 – Core exercises, pushups, and antagonist training2:02:20 – Power endurance training, and how Tim trained power endurance for ‘Era Vella' in his gym in Squamish using circuits2:07:23 – Combining hangboarding to failure with bouldering to simulate route climbing2:07:59 – Applying breathing techniques (hypoxic training) from freediving to sport climbing or high-altitude climbing2:11:33 – Cold-water swimming2:13:17 – Bringing breathing techniques from freediving into rock climbing and ice climbing, pressure breathing, and Wim Hof breathing techniques2:21:35 – What connects all of Tim's different interests, collecting life experiences, and curiosity of human performance2:25:23 – Public speaking, inspiring kids to open up their lives, and giving them the tools to take on their dreams2:29:34 – Having an open mind, and Tim's other life philosophies2:32:30 – Being friendly, and listening to people2:34:29 – Where to connect with Tim, and more about his coaching2:37:08 – “Life is what's happening right now.”

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. *This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who wants to improve at climbing. Seriously. Don't skip this episode if you are interested in training.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:44:52.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTom's Original Episode:EP 74: Tom Randall

Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta. In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They'll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.   Make sure you're subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler's latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler's Original Episode:EP 79: Tyler Nelson

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there's really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial authored by Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Dominik Saul, Elizabeth J Atkinson, Arndt F. Shilling, and Volker Schoffl; published in Scientific Reports in 2021. They'll attempt to determine whether or not there's evidence that hangboarding can help you train more than just your crimping skills. Tune in to find out if this study dives deeper into the debate between Added Weight or Minimum Edge, or if it just dives off the deep end altogether.   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1:  The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers  authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.  International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCA), Reporting Grades in Climbing Research, Climbing Grade Conversion Chart   New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you're subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And then please tell all of your friends who spend their warmup time telling you that your hangboarding is only going to carry over to that one rare four-finger flat edge on a rock climb, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012.  They'll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpreting the data. Tune in to see who wins in the finger strength battle between Minimum Edge Depth and Maximum Added Weight!   New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you're subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all your friends who are constantly telling you that their hang protocol is the number one best protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  Check out both of our Kettlebells for Climbers ebooks! If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emil-abrahamssonNuggets:3:11 – Building a van and planning a bouldering trip around Europe6:01 – My bouldering goals, Emil's progression, and setting goals9:27 – Trying a V15 as a V9 climber, and how a lot of climbers stay “comfortable” at a specific level12:53 – ‘The Big Island' 17:17 – Emil's first day of climbing, struggling early on, and getting hooked19:38 – Alternating difficulty and volume goals21:32 – ‘The Queen Mother' (Emil's first 8B/V13 project in Stockholm), and the limiting power of expectations29:21 – Reflecting on ‘The Queen Mother', and prioritizing psych and motivation32:00 – Felix37:13 – “Swiss Recruitment”, or the Swiss style of projecting41:00 – How Emil got into YouTubing, capturing the experience of outdoor climbing, and my impression as a viewer44:27 – Forgetting to charge the batteries, and the stress vs. fun of filming47:42 – Work-life balance when you love your work, and turning YouTubing into a career49:34 – How to balance capturing footage with training or performing, and capturing the good and the bad51:15 – Emil's “No Hangs” hangboard video, and his caveat for training advice56:00 – Quick overview of the “No Hang” hangboard protocol, and Emil's theory of why his fingers got stronger1:00:16 – We get most of our strength through climbing1:01:41 – 4x4s and other climbing games 1:04:10 – Training your strengths, and practicing weaknesses through climbing1:06:59 – How Emil structures his training, and embracing the stretching “pain game”1:11:49 – Turning challenges into positives, and the benefits Emil has noticed from stretching1:14:46 – Patron question from Florian about avoiding crimping early on in his climbing, and how Emil worked to improve his crimp strength later1:18:34 – How Emil rewired his brain to think, “Full crimps are comfortable. I can enjoy these.”1:19:32 – Emil's crimp progression and current level1:21:53 – One-arm pull-ups, 4mm crimps, front levers, and getting weaker on purpose to get better at technique1:28:55 – Emil's recommendations for progressing to a one-arm pullup1:33:41 – How Emil pronounces his name, and a Patron question from Flynn about training for indoors vs. outdoors and competing in World Cups1:41:12 – Flash training 1:43:44 – World Cup goals, and the flame of competition1:47:34 – What is one of the weirdest/worst training experiments that you've tried?1:50:24 – Favorite films, the critical eye, and the need for consistent content1:54:48 – Recommendations for new viewers1:56:35 – Emil's dream collaboration1:58:17 – Gratitude2:01:03 – Finishing the van, and plans for Switzerland and Italy

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronFacebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelsonNuggets:2:18 – Doughnuts and wiffle ball6:08 – Overview of the conversation, and Tyler's dad11:53 – Chiropractic medicine and watching his dad help people as a kid14:48 – Tyler's education16:38 – Starting to climb in college18:43 – Wanting to work with athletes, and studying tendinopathy21:06 – Tyler's path to C4HP (Camp 4 Human Performance) and the work he does now25:48 – Root cause28:29 – Tyler's most common recommendation: more variation32:33 – How BFR (blood flow restriction) was created37:31 – What BFR looks like, what's happening, and why it works45:41 – How you would use BFR for a shoulder injury, and literal vs. physiological intensity51:36 – How you would use  BRF to rehab a pulley injury54:18 – Why Tyler underpressurized the cuffs the first time he does BFR with an athlete56:33 – Should you try BRF at home?58:43 – A BRF protocol Tyler tried for finger strength training1:02:40 – How you might use BRF for training (big picture)1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR?1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool?1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn't need to be complicated1:20:09 – Density hangs1:22:58 – Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Bar, and the “No Hangs” hangboard protocol1:31:20 – The optimal loading range for tendon pathologies, and why most strength protocols are more similar than they are different1:34:45 – Tendon stiffness, and how unloading can stiffen the system1:38:58 – Speculating about physiological explanations for why Emil's program worked so well1:40:58 – Don't get sweaty and tired on the hangboard, and separating hangboard training from our climbing workouts 1:44:58 – Finger anatomy, condiles, bone lengths, customized finger training1:52:33 – Doughnut eating1:53:46 – New tattoo1:55:03 – Guitar riffs1:57:20 – Tyler's wife

This one is a bit of a special one-off! Tom Randall sits down with the founder of the Nugget Climbing Podcast, Steven to discuss all things Lattice, training and performance. There's so many things that get discussed in this one, so we've put the highlight below with timestamps. We've also put all the links to Steven's podcast at the bottom as well. 11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience18:19 – What Tom did to get strong23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles1:06:35 – Balancing fun and hard work1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channelhenuggetclimbing.com (My podcast website)thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall (Our episode show notes)thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists (Top Episodes page for new listeners)instagram.com/thenuggetclimbing (The Nugget on Instagram)

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom's cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randallNuggets:3:35 – The cellar 6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?  11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience18:19 – What Tom did to get strong23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom's insight into my training habits37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you've ever done?1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel1:16:02 – Gratitude

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core.Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage productsSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-1Nuggets:6:01 – Weatherman11:31 – Snowstorms, solving complex puzzles, and similarities between forecasting weather and training for climbing15:18 – The best send conditions17:38 – TV weather and developing routes in the New River Gorge18:56 – Eric’s first day of climbing21:15 – Patron Question from Max (Eric’s history climbing in PA, and early development at the New)24:29 – Patron Question from Adriel (the early days at the New River Gorge)27:27 – Favorite first ascents from the New 28:32 – Embracing bolting and sport climbing34:17 – The style of bolting in the 90s, becoming a student of climbing, and Eric’s first training articles38:24 – The training paradigm in the 80s (“climber’s don’t train”)40:56 – Early training experiments, wooden blocks on the rafters, pull-ups for slab climbing, and the revolution of climbing gyms47:42 – The modern “weekend warrior”49:13 – Early intuitive training methodologies, and the “shotgun approach” to training56:17 – Applying the 80/20 rule to training1:00:21 – The mental side of climbing, and not getting too focused on one training implement1:07:53 – Patron Question from Matt (the dos and don’ts of hiring a coach)1:12:33 – A new paradigm in connective tissue training1:16:40 – The different effects of hangboarding vs. campusing on finger tendons1:24:33 – How to combine hangboarding and campus boarding to balance performance and resiliency1:29:53 – Patron Question from Liam (benefits of linear and non-linear programs)1:34:59 – End range strength, and the 3D chess of coaching1:41:42 – Core strength, and limiting belief systems1:47:05 – Deadlifting1:52:43 – Weighted planks1:54:31 – Deadlifting + bouldering with small footholds1:59:16 – Reinventing your training, and sticking with things long enough to see if they work

There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do. Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise? In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS.  RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15 Podcast Rundown 4:10 - Opening comments about effective training for climbing. 4:45 - Importance of keeping an open mind about your training. 6:42 - Mention of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers -- go back and listen to podcast #37! 9:00 - Intro to 4 training tangents, traps, and energy sinks that rob you of time and energy...and dilute the quality of your training for climbing. 10:06 - You CAN achieve greater things than you can imagine today! 10:40 - #1 Training Tangent: Focusing on exercises and activities that create fatigue and consume time, but do little to really enhance climbing performance. 15:44 - #2 Training Tangent: Blindly copying another climber's workouts and training program. 17:22 - #3 Training Tangents: The shiny, new object at the gym...that is fun, engaging, and possibly high-tech...that consumes a lot of your focus and time but provides small (or negligible) performance gains given. 20:30 - Comments about the benefits of Auto-Regulation. Listen to podcast #20 for more coverage of Auto-Regulation. 25:00 - Comments on Blood Flow Restriction training - learn more in podcast #40. 28:00 - #4 Training Tangent: Constantly changing up your training...never sticking to a program for a month to be able to accurately gauge the results. 30:30 - Eric coaches you to "Plan your workout, then work your plan!" 32:45 - Please check out our podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save $10 or 15% on your online order! PhysiVantage is used by many of America's top boulders, sport climbers, and big wall crushers! 35:08 - 10 time-tested, back-to-basics exercises and activities that are central to effective training for climbing. 37:24 - #1: Climb frequently! 39:30 - #2: Hangboard train! 44:15 - #3: Weighted Pull-ups 45:35 - #4: Frenchies 48:08 - #5: Bouldering and System Wall climbing 50:15 - #6: Route climbing 54:34 - #7: Bouldering 4x4 Intervals 57:42 - #8: Campus board training 58:40 - #9: Running (in moderate doses) 1:01:21 - #10: Flexibility training (lower-body focus for hip turnout) 1:05:22 - Final thoughts.... PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:04.

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts.  Support on Patreon:   patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing   Show Notes:   http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2  Nuggets:  4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave  10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits  13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box  14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc)  16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system  21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute  22:46 – How Jon structures his training week  27:36 – An example training day, mock comps, and climbing with a weight vest  31:40 – Indoor projecting days, and how Jon structures a six-week training block, and resting  34:24 – Some of the testing Jon did with Steve Maisch  37:14 – Building up your training capacity, why it’s ok to suck some days, and seeing improvement after resting at the end of a training block  39:21 – Budgeting a week to relearn how to climb after getting strong  40:32 – How Jon’s six-week training blocks fit into a year, and the value of a training partner  42:58 – Forced time off, maintaining finger strength, and warming up with a hangboard in addition to climbing  46:14 – Skin  47:38 – Jon’s guidelines for warmup up  50:20 – More about one-arm max hangs, how to progress the load, and where to start out  54:54 – “Don’t go into training half-assed”  55:45 – Hangboard repeaters, and how Jon structures a six-week block  1:00:29 – Feeling like a boxer, and going to the gym to win  1:02:19 – Jon’s thoughts on MoondBoard vs. Tension Board vs. Kilter Board vs. Beastmaker Board  1:04:11 – Jon’s recommendations for my Hueco “training” trip  1:07:39 – Project shopping, the relativity of grades, and the value of throwing yourself at something hard  1:10:33 – Sean Rabatou and the value of projecting with other people  1:12:59 – How Jon’s climbing schedule has changed over the years, and needing more rest days  1:15:02 – FA of ‘King’s Landing’  1:16:26 – Good food and haircuts  1:17:26 – ‘The Abyss’ film  1:18:23 – Recent and upcoming films from LT11  1:20:01 – Gratitude for family and friends  1:20:48 – What Jon hopes to accomplish with LT11, and with his own climbing  

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz  Nuggets:  2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day”  5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’  5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16  8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing  9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno  11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel”  14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better”  15:28 – Using your build as a gift, scrunch power, and working on weaknesses while taking advantage of strengths  18:22 – “Strength comes first”  18:52 – Balancing performance with training  21:38 – “Practice like you play”, climbing on boards, the role of weight lifting, and “the most important thing is climbing”  23:48 – Matt’s go-to weight-room exercises, and a teaser for OTG (more later in the episode)  24:03 – Deadlifting w/ Tension Blocks vs. hanging from a hangboard  26:48 – Matt’s grip selection for finger training, and grip training frequency (Off Season: every other day. Performance Season: once or twice per week)  29:07 – How Matt decides between the different boards he climbs on  30:52 – The importance of a strong support system  33:10 – Matt’s trip to Australia w/ Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival, and bouldering with a new level of detail  35:07 – Nutrition timing, and planning meals around climbing, or vice versa  37:08 – Matt’s pre-workout meal  38:37 – The Mad Rock ‘Drones’  42:16 – Drones sizing (about 1.5 to 2 US sizes down from your street shoe)  44:50 – OTG Strength and how to train with Matt  49:24 – Balancing working/coaching with climbing  50:52 – Switching gears after ‘Hypnotized Minds’, project shopping, and climbing for fun  52:23 – Moving to CO and having access to a lot of hard boulders  53:40 – Dreams of van life  54:26 – Gratitude  55:30 – Where to connect with Matt  56:03 – Progressing every year, drawing inspiration from Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham, and goals  58:34 – The RV Moonboard  1:00:03 – “We will enjoy our Oreos today”  

Listener Q+A:1:04 Kelli - What can I do for grip strength? I think maybe I'm gripping holds too tightly because my hands get cramped/pumped out towards the top of the wall. How do I fix that? I'm not flashing routes I would be able to because of it.4:04 Vanessa - Creating COVID-friendly goals - maybe more focused on mindset improvements, but I'm not sure what that would look like? Since my original physical climbing goals are long gone!7:35 Lindsay - Can having your hands spread farther than shoulder width apart make hangboarding significantly harder?14:21 Grace - When I finish one of your training programs how long before I repeat it and what do I do in the meantime?18:02 Laura - Did I compete at some point and how do you prepare? She is going to try for the first time in the beginning category25:05 Jamie - Tips for training w/ a broken foot?31:15 Vanessa - I have endometriosis and an anti-inflammatory diet will be my jam aka low carb. Concerns with that?Use code "PODCAST" at checkout to get 15% off training plans at ladybetacoaching.com

Listener Q+A:1:04 Kelli - What can I do for grip strength? I think maybe I’m gripping holds too tightly because my hands get cramped/pumped out towards the top of the wall. How do I fix that? I’m not flashing routes I would be able to because of it.4:04 Vanessa - Creating COVID-friendly goals - maybe more focused on mindset improvements, but I’m not sure what that would look like? Since my original physical climbing goals are long gone!7:35 Lindsay - Can having your hands spread farther than shoulder width apart make hangboarding significantly harder?14:21 Grace - When I finish one of your training programs how long before I repeat it and what do I do in the meantime?18:02 Laura - Did I compete at some point and how do you prepare? She is going to try for the first time in the beginning category25:05 Jamie - Tips for training w/ a broken foot?31:15 Vanessa - I have endometriosis and an anti-inflammatory diet will be my jam aka low carb. Concerns with that?Use code "PODCAST" at checkout to get 15% off training plans at ladybetacoaching.com

Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconceptions about deadlifting, maintenance strength training, Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol, why climbing is important, and keeping things in perspective.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-manganiello  Nuggets:  1:28 – Breakfast  2:32 – Early strength training, transitioning from multisport athlete to focused climber, and taking things “all the way”  10:07 – Outliers, and asking ourselves “how good could I be if I focused all my energy on one thing”  11:24 – stated goals vs. action, and the coaches role  12:24 – Cushy sport climbing  14:02 – How Charlie’s early strength training translated to climbing  15:49 – Cross pollinated athletes, the 75/25 rule, and  being “strong enough”  18:24 – The benefits of going deep into strength training, “it’s not bodybuilding”, and the myth of gaining mass  20:37 – Connective tissue adaptation, motor recruitment, and becoming a more functional human  21:26 – Balancing the pull with the push  23:07 – Deadlifting, running, and learning through experience  27:05 – Treating your recovery like a workout, and watching climbing videos  29:00 – Deadlifting 400 lbs  32:40 – Charlie’s strength maintenance routine  34:08 – Misconceptions about the deadlift, magic bullets, and the posterior chain  38:17 – Deadlift numbers to shoot for, and the line between strength training for climbing vs. becoming a strength athlete  42:13 – Using the weight room to stay in the game  44:40 – Low hanging fruit: a few simple ways to climb harder (and why strength isn’t everything)  47:45 – “Train general to improve specific.”  49:15 – Increasing the push for healthy shoulders and a stronger pull  50:50 – Mobility  51:34 – Lower body explosiveness, and foot-on campus doubles  54:43 – Unilateral lower-body training  55:35 – The Bottoms-up Turkish Getup (with a glass of water balanced on top)  58:52 – The ideal vs. working with what you have  1:00:40 – Carryover from crushing grip strength to climbing?  1:03:01 – Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol  1:06:20 – Charlie’s thoughts on 7:13 repeaters and when to do them  1:07:21 – “You’re either training or you’re performing. You can’t do both.”  1:08:47 – Strength maintenance at the end of a performance day  1:09:33 – “Climbing is really important to people.”  1:10:59 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely  1:15:33 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away  1:17:38 – “This is where I’m at.”  

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current training methods, how he mixes in climbing with training, tactics for quick redpointing, a new direction for his climbing, and The Fins project.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jonathan-siegrist  Nuggets:  3:31 – Breakfast, how Jonathan eats on a climbing day, favorite bars, and eating the local cuisine when traveling  8:38 – Training for the Red by climbing on campus rungs on the treadwall (while wearing socks)  13:21 – Jonathan’s training evolution, and sending ‘Jumbo Love’  18:18 – Current training methodology (broad strokes), working with Steve Bechtel, and adding more rest between sets and training days  21:21 – Carving out more time for the same number of training sessions  22:35 – Jonathan’s three favorite strength exercises (not related to finger strength)  26:46 – More about weighted pull-ups and how Jonathan generally programs and advances his training  29:19 – Combining heavy sets with plyometrics, and taking 10-15 minute rest between sets  30:56 – Circuit style hangboarding vs. straight sets  32:48 – 7:13 repeaters, why Jonathan now prefers them over 7:3, trying new things, and thinking about trying max hangs in the future  37:19 – How Jonathan integrates outdoor climbing with training and the benefits of combining the two  42:00 – Sending ‘One Hundred Proof’, and shifting focus to prioritize redpoint days  44:09 – Why Jonathan doesn’t do any maintenance training, and the importance of trying hard  47:36 – Jonathan’s propensity toward endurance, and the one thing he would do different if he could go back in time  49:47 – How Jonathan thinks about strength and power training vs. bouldering  50:36 – Sending ’Trice’ back in 2009, learning to climb at flagstaff, and testing well at finger strength but not knowing how to move fast  55:09 – “The magic of climbing”, how Jonathan stacks up against other 9b climbers and prioritizing sending  57:58 – Climbing with Adam Ondra and inspiration to focus more on flash and onsight climbing  1:02:43 – Jonathan’s approach to second-go redpointing, his affinity for remembering beta, and removing hesitation  1:04:49 – Jonathan’s spray wall drill to practice memorizing sequences, and how he uses visualization  1:08:42 – How Jonathan thinks about deciding between second-go redpointing vs. flash or onsight  1:11:36 – Leveling up, hopes to return to old crags to finish old projects, and Jonathan’s desire to (eventually) move away from sport climbing  1:18:14 – Multipitch sport climbing, and “the single coolest thing” Jonathan hopes to do with his climbing  1:19:33 – Trying the Dawn Wall with Tommy, and why Yosemite big wall climbing isn’t at the top of his list  1:21:34 – The Fins project  1:28:51 – Experimenting with techniques to combat dry skin and dry conditions, wet chalk, and Rhino Spit  1:31:52 – “Do you think that thing will be 15b?”, the polarizing crux of Algorithm, and Jonathan’s best try  1:34:08 – Establishing 5.15b in America and what makes that so hard (aside from it being hard…)  1:36:00 – Plans to head back up to The Fins  1:36:27 – Jonathan’s upcoming trip to Italy, plans to try Lapsus, and the coronavirus  1:40:09 – Why Jonathan is so grateful for his sponsors and how they have really stepped up to support him, and the Metolius Light Rail  1:43:58 – Writing, how his blog got hijacked and moving from jstarinorbit to jonathansiegrist.com, plans to write new content, and writing blogs for his brands  1:46:54 – Jonathan on Instagram and Twitter, his new YouTube channel, and plans for upcoming videos with EpicTV  1:49:17 – The Fins project video (WIP)  1:50:35 – What Jonathan thinks holds back most climbers, and trying to spend 75% of your time climbing (on rock) and only 25% training (or climbing inside)  1:53:11 – “Try hard.”  1:53:58 – My poster of Jonathan, and being an inspiration as the best thing Jonathan feels like he can ask for  

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in competition, energy system training, optimal training for a Masters climber, protein requirements, and blood flow restriction training. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Introduction to Ask Coach Horst 1:45 - About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan climbers. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products. 3:05 - Question #1 - What are your thoughts on hangboard training on climbing days...as well as on consecutive days? 7:50 - Question #2 - Can you give me some insight into my finger injury...which is painful at the base of the ring finger, but also extends down into the palm and forearm? 10:10 - Question #3 - What's the optimal length of rest between strength/power exercises and powerful bouldering? 14:15 - Question #4 - What do you think about the use of auto-regulation on competition days? Might the findings potentially hurt the mental state of the athlete? (Learn more about Auto-Regulation in Podcast #44.) 19:00 - Question #5 - How can I incorporate Energy System Training concepts into a periodized training program? (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 - #28.) 26:00  - Question #6 - What advice do you have for a 50-something climber wanting to train right and climb for many years to come? 32:54 - Question #7 - How much protein do I need to consume daily to recover optimally? 41`:40 - Question #8 - When doing weighted pull-ups should I go down the whole way or should I maintain a bit of arm-bend at the bottom? 45:40 - Question #9 - I'd like to do some blood flow restriction training (BFR) -- what protocol do you recommend for a healthy climber? PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media. Learn about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage  and how performance nutrition can help you train harder and climb better. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all, What is the best hangboard protocol?  You can find Eva and her Fingerboard Training Guide at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ You can read Eva's research papers HERE You can register for the CWA and our workshops there at https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/ You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term! Rundown 0:22 - Introduction 2:00 - Detailed description of the new ULTIMATE BOARD, designed by Hörst and manufactured by Nicros. Purchase here >> 11:20 - Who should hangboard train? Guidelines for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. 17:30 - The value of hangboard training for intermittent year-round...and the importance of finding your "best" personalized program. 18:45 - Get compliant! Learn the "120-move" rule for warming up. 24:45 - Why elite level climbers need to do some two-a-day workouts. 25:55 - Beginner guidelines. To hang or not to hang? 26:35 - How proper training (and rest) can make your tendons stronger, stiffer, and slightly thicker given long-term, prudent hangboard training. 27:10 - Which grip positions you should train? How grip position effects forces placed on the flexor tendons and pulleys. Important stuff! 30:00 - Biomechanics of the full crimp grip. 31:12 - Biomechanics of the open-hand grip. 32:18 - What about the "open-crimp" grip? 34:15 - Importance of targeting a specific grip position. 35:50 - Research findings on the forces places on the FDP and FDS flexor tendons with different grip positions. 40:50 - Forces placed on A2 and A4 pulleys...and how to train around a minor annular pulley injury. 42:32 - Finger extensor muscle imbalances...and how to train to combat them. 48:45 - Pinch grip training--Eric's "two birds with one stone" training recommendation. 51:08 - Why every serious climbing much do two brief antagonist exercise sessions per week. 51:55 - Reminder that specific hangboard training protocols are detailed in Podcast #10. 54:08 - Tips on exercise programming. 55:50 - Tips for advanced climbers. 57:00 - Elite climber advice: The importance of doing periods of high volume training for Central Governor recalibration--one of the keys to breaking new performance barriers! Learn more on this in my book, Training for Climbing. 59:30 - Keys to long-term gains over decades. Yes, you can do it with dedicated & smart training--if you stay uninjured! 1:00:35 - Teaser on the next few podcasts...which will break some new ground. Don't miss them! 1:01:40 - Closing comments about the transcending spirit of climbing...and Eric's good wishes to you for the holidays and New Year! If you enjoy this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Training on the Ultimate Board, available from NICROS.com

Ich hatte die Ehre die deutsche Worldcup-Boulderin Alma Bestvater (22) zum Podcast-Interview zu treffen. Alma begleitet mich schon seit meinen Boulder-Anfängen, da ich sie oft in Weimar in der Boulderhalle beobachten konnte. Ihre Kraft und ihre Bewegungen haben mich schon damals sehr beeindruckt. Wir haben uns im März 2018 in der Plan B-Boulderhalle in Jena getroffen. Alma hatte gerade ihre erste Trainings-Session des Tages beendet und ich konnte noch ihre letzten Übungen am Hangboard beobachten. Zwei Wochen vorher war sie mit dem deutschen Nationalteam in einem Trainingscamp in Japan und sie hatte kurz zuvor den CWIF-Wettkampf in Sheffield gewonnen. Ich habe natürlich mit ihr über ihre Erfahrungen in Japan geredet, über CWIF, ihre Gedanken zu Olympia 2020 und vieles mehr! Viel Spaß mit dem Interview!

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

One of the guests most requested by our listeners, Steve Maisch is a Salt Lake City climber/coach/economics professor who, much like myself, uses himself as a guinea pig to test new approaches to training.  As such, we decided to nerd out on a couple of topics.  For this one, we discuss the different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.  I'm sure we forgot a few, which is ok, because we can always record more... You can find Steve online at http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/ You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.  

In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents many practical tips for climbing your best on a roadtrip…and for training in safe and effective ways, by steering clear of popular training myths and dogma. Rundown 1:10 – Reflections on a roadtrip—tips for performing your best while on an extended climbing trip. 3:20 – Learn about the “golden period” of a roadtrip—when you are typically the strongest and most powerful…and be able to climb the hardest. 4:10 – Why the best-trained climbers actually get weaker (and lose high-end power) during a multi-week climbing trip. 7:45 – What’s the best ratio of climbing days vs. rest days, while on a long climbing trip. 9:55 – Importance of diet and sleep for optimizing recovery and performing your best on a roadtrip. 13:38 – Upon returning for a long roadtrip, how long should you break from serious training & climbing? 15:20 – Eric comments on Adam Ondra’s mega-project…perhaps the world’s first 5.15d. 18:08 – Introduction to the “Training & Performance Mythbusters” segment. 20:38 – Myth #1: Hangboard training is only appropriate for advanced climbers. (Learn the truth….that hangboard training is useful—for developing finger strength AND building stronger tendons & pulleys—for all climbers other than beginner and recently injured climbers.) 29:55 – Myth #2: Campus training, as commonly shown in social media feeds, is something you should be doing…because campus training is the best method of developing a stronger, more powerful upper-body for climbing. (Learn the truth….and how “pre-hab” training is essential before adding campus training to your program.) 36:45 – Myth #3: The widely publicized “10,000-hour Rule” of practice applies to climbing….therefore you must climb as often and as much as possible so as to accumulate the 10,000 hours needed to become elite. (The truth? Applied to climbing…this rule is bogus! With good coaching, smart training, a high-level of motivation/dedication, and favorable genetics, you can become a high-level climber in far fewer than 10,000 hours of practice.) 40:02 – Myth #4: Body building and other “fitness” magazine (and web sites) are a good source of effective training techniques that you can apply to climbing. (Hear Eric bust this myth!) 43:45 – What about novel bodybuilding techniques, such as the recently popularized Blood Flow Restriction training? It’s been “proven” effective by research, right? 47:12 – Learn why it’s best for a climber NOT to have large, bulging biceps….or excessive muscles elsewhere. 48:40 – Myth #5: The latest diet fad (whatever it may be) is likely useful to a serious climber. (Eric will address the currently popular ketogenic/LCHF diet...) 53:00 – How about popular dietary supplements, such as fish oil, a multi-vitamin, creatine monohydrate, and such? 57:40 – Episode wrap up Music by: Misty Murphy

In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support.  Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass). While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some good, some bad) in the public domain, this podcasts will present four evidence-based protocols that work. Experienced climbers, with no recent history of injury to the fingers/elbows/shoulders, can employ one of these maximum-grip-strength protocols on a twice-a-week basis as supplement to time spent climbing. Aggregate number of climbing and finger training days per week must not exceed four—resting the fingers a minimum of three days per week is essential for neuromuscular recovery and finger tendon remodeling. Break this rule and you’ll likely end up “broken”….in one way or another. Podcast Rundown: 1:14 - Review of 5 reasons why stronger fingers are central to taking your climbing to the next level 4:24 - Intro to maximum finger strength training on a hangboard 4:50 - Importance of "Relative Peak Finger Force" 10:10 - 3 Hangboard training modalities 13:33 - Training protocol 1: "Minimum Edge" 19:14 - Training protocol 2: "Maximum Weight 10-second Hangs" 25:20 - Training protocol 3: "7-53 Weight Hangs" 32:00 - Training protocol 4: "7/3 Repeaters" 41:00 - How to fingerboard with good technique...to protect & strengthen your shoulders. 45:05 - Hangboard training program design - How to integrate your with your other workouts and performance climbing. 53:00 - Closing comments Music: Misty Murphy Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!