Podcast appearances and mentions of jonathan siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor. This wasn't his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line.Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the long haul.SHOW NOTES:Jonathan's InstagramErebor, 9bSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America's top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send!  27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble _________________________

When we think of cutting edge climbing, we think of cutting edge athleticism. But what about the mental side? The true test of finishing the world's most difficult routes may not come down to strength, but mental fitness. Today, we are joined by Jonathan Siegrist to discuss the mental hurdles climbers experience. Sometimes you have to let go to hang on.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get 20% any purchase (new customers only) COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.  LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any drink mix order  Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube

Elite climber Jonathan Siegrist is back on the show, and this time we dive deep into the concepts of success and failure in climbing, limit projecting, what happens when a climb doesn't come together... and how we can all learn from our struggles on rock to make our next go our best go.  - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: MAXIM: The best ropes in the game! Ultra-light, ultra-reliable, and ultra-durable. Check out the Airliner (my favorite) and all their ropes at your local gear shop and on the MAXIM site.  PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score 10% off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE at checkout.   Boulder Bears: Taste like candy, kick like coffee! Each caffeinated gummy bear contains collagen and 20mg of caffeine so you can take care of your tendons while dialing in the perfect level of boost and focus for your sesh. Plus, they're crazy delicious. Score a free travel pack plus 15% off using code STRUGGLE!  Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.  ShayrdAir: Join Jonathan Siegrist and Shaina Savoy's mentorship program and enjoy a masterclass, zoom courses, in-person clinics, and a climbing trip with Jonathan and Shaina! Use code STRUGGLE for $300 off.   And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoes We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Neely's breakfast(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist's rest days(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider' 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching(00:22:28) – Self-talk(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach(00:24:35) – Mindset tools(00:28:40) – Email apnea(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on(01:15:29) – Gremlin work(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression(01:30:38) – Toil(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value(01:35:52) – Respect and envy(01:38:27) – Our homework(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Have you ever imagined what kinda person you have to be mentally and physically to climb some of the hardest routes in the world? Maybe how that person views themselves and their own accomplishment? Or even how they might view the everyday climber? In this conversation we wanted to move beyond what it's like to climb hard. What are the lessons of a 5.15 climber and how can we apply Jonathan's viewpoint and experiences to improve our own lives?Jonathan helps us remember life is about private little victories. He suggests that it's important    be gentle on ourselves and to remember why we started climbing in the first place, the love of life and the outdoors.In our chat, we talk about how Jonathan supports the community and what recreational climbers look like through pros' eyes. We discuss how top climbers use their influence, what key traits make them successful, and finally how Jonathan plans to use his talents once he outlives his physical peak.Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends. Word of mouth is one of the most powerful tools to help us out.Contact us:IG: @the.climbing.majorityEmail: theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com

Jonathan Siegrist isn't just one of America's best and most prolific sport climbers, having climbed over 25 5.15's. He's also someone who thinks deeply about what climbing offers us, and works to make sure we stay on track.  In this episode, Kris and Jonathan discuss one of the most controversial topics in climbing, grades. How grades come about, what that means for outliers, how hard it is to quantify the experience of climbing, and how we can have a better relationship with these numbers that we all care about but pretend not to.  Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE! ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

How big of a problem is lying in climbing? Jonathan Siegrist returns to the show to talk about dishonesty in our sport.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Peak Design Dr. Squatch Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube

In this episode, which comes to us from The Struggle Climbing Show podcast, Kris sat down with host Ryan Devlin to talk tactics. Kris took a look at episodes from the show's second season – which included interviews with some of today's biggest names in climbing, like Jonathan Siegrist, Tommy Caldwell, Melina Costanza, Matt Fultz, Alison Vest, and more – and breaks down the biggest tactical takeaways for us.   Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show. Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

A route's history is important, but does it make it sacred? As our sport grows, people are considering whether adding bolts to existing routes to make it safer or more accessible might be a valid idea. Prolific first ascensionist, student of the sport and arguably America's best sport climber Jonathan Siegrist joins the Climbing Gold team to discuss. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens

We begin this REWIND episode a little differently, with a call to Jonathan Siegrist while he was recently in Catalunya, Spain, to find out if he knew why we're releasing this on May 18th. It's an interesting fact about his own climbing that he wasn't aware of. Until now. Since this episode first aired, Jonathan has climbed 5 routes at 5.15b (9b), with his most recent send of “Stoking the Fire” being the first to break his unintentional May hotstreak. So now, almost 5 years exactly after he ticked his first of that grade, we REWIND to this classic conversation with Jonathan about when and why to change things up in your training, and one thing that training should definitely include a whole lot of: climbing. Follow Jonathan on Instagram. This episode originally aired on March 2, 2017.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough.  Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnoldNuggets:0:08:25 – Interviews, speech coaches, and TED Talks0:11:29 – Finding new terrain for this interview0:12:09 – Alex's epic solo linkup in Zion0:15:20 – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress'… again0:16:12 – Why do these big solo linkups?0:17:00 – Alex's epic solo linkup in Red Rock0:18:58 – Foot pain on big walls and linkups, and vitamin I0:21:45 – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune's Buttress' and ‘Resolution Arete'0:24:38 – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed0:25:33 – Why do some solos get so much attention while others fly under the radar?0:26:51 – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso' in Mexico, and pitching films0:29:21 – What are the limits of free soloing?0:32:35 – It's getting harder to have quantum leaps0:34:20 – Feeling content with his Yosemite and soloing accomplishments, and comparing himself to the top sport climbers0:36:26 – Chris Sharma doing the FA of ‘Necessary Evil' 5.14c (8c+) in his first few years of climbing, and the role of talent in high-end climbing0:39:44 – Alex's sport climbing resume, what it would take for him to climb 5.15a (9a+), and the tension in his climbing0:42:37 – Dad strength, and having to focus with limited time0:43:50 – The climbing gyms in Vegas, and dreams of a home wall0:49:34 – Near misses while soloing0:55:34 – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps' in Riglos Spain0:57:46 – Competing with Ethan Pringle as a kid, soloing ‘Shune's Butress' in the snow, and the tree story1:03:16 – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger', Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals1:04:22 – Climbing slowly, and the physiological limits on ‘The Nose' speed record1:08:06 – What it took to break ‘The Nose' speed record, and Alex's thoughts on breaking it again1:10:47 – The biggest lessons Alex has learned from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft1:14:26 – Drawing inspiration from other climbers, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou1:18:15 – Following the climbing news1:19:01 – Who Alex is most impressed by in climbing, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)1:20:35 – The new season of Climbing Gold, and unearthing the great stories of climbing1:22:13 – Who Alex has been most thrilled to interview1:23:28 – The time commitment of Climbing Gold, corporate speaking, and interviewing Stone Masters1:26:24 – Will Climbing Gold ever put out uncut interviews?1:28:37 – Pooping while free soloing stories1:34:56 – Shit-putting, and where he stopped to poop on his solo of El Cap1:36:29 – Filming Free Solo, how the movie far exceeded his hopes and dreams, the warrior spirit, and soloing as modern blood sport1:38:54 – The commitment to excellence, and his running list of goal routes1:41:05 – Plans for the PNW, hard routes on Liberty Bell, and having more commitments and time constraints these days1:43:57 – “More intention never hurt.”1:44:47 – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Eric Horst and I team up for this crossover episode as the GOAT Coach helps me chart a course to sending my hardest grade, 5.13a, this fall. - Eric is the host of the Training4Climbing podcast, author of numerous climbing bibles, pro coach for decades, founder of Physivantage nutrition, and all around crusher in his own right. Regardless of your style, grade, or goals, this conversation will help you to plan your projects and training in a manner that leads to big gains. Topics covered include: How to pick a project based on your self-assessment on strengths and weaknesses Structuring in-season and off-season training Establishing a 30k foot view of your training and climbing How smaller goals can roll up into the main objective The superpower of onsighting  Training efficiently based on conditions and work/life balance So so so much more! - This episode is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Created by climbers for climbers, their athlete roster includes Alex Megos, Natalia Grossman, Daniel Woods, Paige Classen, Matt Fultz, Jonathan Siegrist, Amity Warme and so many more! Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.    The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @eric_horst - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!  

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Arc'Teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist about his experience with injuring and rehabilitating his Grade III AC joint rock climbing. This interview occurred in 2020, 5 weeks after Jonathan had a grade III AC sprain. After diligent therapy and several months, Jonathan returned to full strength climbing. He continued to train and shortly after, he sent his most challenging project yet. This episode covers: Taping techniques for AC joint sprain Early range of motion Staying strong early on Blood flow restriction therapy  Early strength training Returning to early climbing  Late stage strengthening  Exercise demonstrations Jonathan Siegrist's Bio: Jonathan is a passionate professional climber and global traveler. He spends his years primarily on the road and overseas, constantly on a mission to develop new areas and pursue the challenge and beauty in hard rock climbing. Since he began his journey with climbing at age 18 he has step by step experimented and refined his methods of training for a variety of goals. His list of career highlights includes over 350 5.14s, 5.14 traditional routes, over a dozen 5.15s, boulder problems up to V14 and 5.14 big wall ascents. Website: http://www.jonathansiegrist.com/p/abo... Instagram: @jonathansiegrist

Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don't know how. It's one of the hardest to cultivate components of high performance: effort. So, the big question: How can we all learn to give more effort? In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from climbers Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay, Troy Fauteux, and more, as well as author Alex Hutchinson and Hall of Fame linebacker Ray Lewis about how we – the average athlete – can refocus our effort. Find videos, citations, a full transcript, and more for this episode HERE. REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FEATURED IN THIS REMIX: Ep. 150: A Philosophy of Sending with Bill Ramsey Episode 30: If It Ain't Broke, Fix It Anyway with Jonathan Siegrist Episode 45: Aggressive Creativity with Jason Kehl Episode 57: Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay Ep. 156: Troy Fauteux | Try Harder   Music for this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions. Audio clips of Alex Hutchinson come from Press 1 for Nick and Modern Wisdom.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lor Sabourin joins the show to look back at this season's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing, and helps us all to learn from where the pros have struggled and excelled in mental game.  - Lor is an elite climber and coach with an expertise in the area of mindset, and they join the pod to look back at season 2 (featuring highlights from Jonathan Siegrist, Melina Costanza, Allison Vest, Peter Croft, and more) and shares actionable takeaways that we can all use to level up our own mental game and climbing.  - Topics: How to set motivating, healthy, and achievable goals   Working through performance anxiety      Choosing (and being) a good partner   Ego, belonging, self worth, and community    How to harness the send stoke when you're not even climbing   Yes vs No Fall Zones    How to turn falling into a relaxing process   What to note when you don't send and when you DO send   Self advocacy and how to be welcoming to all at the climbs  - This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Created by climbers for climbers, their athlete roster includes Alex Megos, Natalia Grossman, Daniel Woods, Paige Classen, Matt Fultz, Jonathan Siegrist, Amity Warme and so many more! Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.    This season is supported by Petzl, the official gear sponsor of The Struggle. Check out their Scirocco helmet, Djinn draws, Hirundos harness, and all of their bomber gear at your local shop! Access the inaccessible at Petzl.com.   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @lor_sabourin - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!    

Kris Hampton joins the show to look back at this season's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing, and helps us all to learn from where the pros have struggled and excelled.  - Kris has been a force in the climbing community for decades as a climber, coach, writer, and podcaster. He joins the pod to look back at season 2 (featuring highlights from Jonathan Siegrist, Melina Costanza, Matt Fultz, Allison Vest, Guy McNamee, and more) and shares actionable takeaways that we can all use to level up our own nutrition and climbing.  - Topics: Fixing it before it's broken The power of the flash YouTube for beta? Benefits of junky condies Redefining what grades mean Refreshing body and mind between attempts Why YOU should be training on parkour style comp problems - This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Try their EndureX for increased endurance and recovery between attempts! Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.    This season is supported by Petzl, the official gear sponsor of The Struggle. Check out their Scirocco helmet whihc exceeds safety standards and is suuuuuper comfy! Access the inaccessible at Petzl.com.   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @powercompanyclimbing - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!    

Tom Randall joins the show to look back at this season's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing, and help us all to learn from where the pros have struggled and excelled.  - Tom Randall is an elite climber, elite coach, co-founder of Lattice Training, and one of the most psyched guys on the planet when it comes to geeking out over data and all things climber training. He joins the pod to look back at season 2 (featuring highlights from Tommy Caldwell, Maiza Lima, Jonathan Siegrist, Mary Eden, Mo Beck and more) and deliver actionable takeaways that we can all use to level up our own training and climbing.  - Topics: How to begin training if you're totally new to it Proper rest protocols The magic trick of post activation potentiation  When to train weaknesses vs doubling down on strengths How to use systems boards (and when NOT to) for project training  Finding joy in climbing and training  - This season is supported by Petzl, the official gear sponsor of The Struggle. Try their Hirundos harness with fuse-frame technology. It's light, it's fast, and it's comfy enough to dog on your proj (like me). Access the inaccessible at Petzl.com.   This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Try their amazing new Greens powder to level up your daily nutrition! Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.  - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!    

Elite climber Jonathan Siegrist shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game.  - How accomplished is Jonathan Siegrist? Well, he's climbed six 5.15s… JUST THIS YEAR! That ticklist includes Event Horizon, a route he bolted that's at least 15b and very well may be harder. It's certainly one of, if not the, hardest routes in North America. Earlier this year he had an unbelievably impressive trip to Spain where he sent three 15a's, two 14d's, and a handful of other 5.14s. Remember I'm just talking about the past 12 months here. His accomplishments on rock, from 5.14 on gear, to V14 boulders, to now countless 5.14 / 5.15 sport climbs… are crazy impressive and he's only getting better. Beyond his insanely impressive climbing resume, J Star has bolted hundreds of routes, many of them now super classic. This guy is as real as it gets, his stoke level is off the charts, and I know your'e going to get a TON out of this conversation. - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:06:00 Training: 0:09:25 Nutrition: 0:21:09 Tactics: 0:31:52 Mental Game: 0:50:10 Purpose: 1:00:15 Takeaways: 1:14:22 - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow, and @jonathansiegrist - PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.    Petzl is the official gear sponsor of The Struggle. Check out their amazing products, including their Djinn draws, at your local gear shop and learn more at petzl.com.   This episode is sponsored by FrictionLabs. No fillers, made in the US, and the best you can get. Chalk up less and climb more with FrictionLabs! Visit www.frictionlabs.com and enter code STRUGGLE20 at checkout for 20% off your first order. - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.  - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.  - The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!    

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-haferNuggets:0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves0:20:27 – What expectations are0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?0:26:51 – Alice's climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad's stroke, and carrying emotional weight0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad's passion for climbing0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren't always sending, and passion and motivation0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice's experience with depression0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome1:15:55 – Climbing matters1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist's 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice2:30:43 – Alice's final advice for listeners2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

Jonathan Siegrist, one of the world's best sport climbers, returns to the show to share the news of his recent send of Rifle's hardest route. We catch up on the latest in the climbing world in a casual conversation that traverses freely and honestly across the climbing landscape. But first, your friendly neighborhood podcast hosts explore what climbing may — or may never — mean for our kids, and how we think about raising the next generation in an era of social-media-fueled pressure to be “rad” at everything. As always, you won't want to miss today's final bit from Butchcop. Photo: @BearCam Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com Show notes Follow Jonathan Siegrist on Instagram And follow BearCam Chris Kalous' instagram post Butchcop on Spotify The RunOut bonus interview with Joe Kinder about establishing Kinder Cakes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJonathan's Other Episodes:EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)

Hugo is all alone this week but brings you some awesome climbing news from around the world. Scary E10 trad routes, Jonathan Siegrist's rampage and a possible Adam Ondra down grade...

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes' 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.Check out Chalk Cartel:charkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinderNuggets:6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe's goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging22:14 – “It's a case-to-case scenario.”24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks43:59 – Embracing the plan B's of life44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth' got its name52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes', proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes', the send, and those special moments1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes', and needing to work1:06:16 – Sushi celebration1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes' stacks up against Joe's other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”1:09:05 – Joe's early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach1:11:18 – Joe's first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program1:16:37 – ‘Activator', watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk', and Joe's year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes'1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe's outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies' project1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk' extension project1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes' (month 1)1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes' (month 2)1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance2:00:25 – Joe's movies, LOV as a creative outlet1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe's nicknames for me2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe's experience climbing on established routes differ from FA's?2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?2:25:05 – Graffiti2:28:03 – Joe's experience with cancelation2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next

Living in Boulder, Colorado, a place that almost seemed to be one with nature, it would be difficult not to be interested in the outdoors. In this episode, Rick Saez is joined by Professional Rock Climber Jonathan Siegrist. Jonathan shares how his family influenced him to love the outdoors. He takes us to his journey of making a living out of his passion for outdoor activities, especially mountain biking and rock climbing, and why he decided to live by himself outdoors through a camper van. Join in this conversation as Jonathan tells us his incredible journey of turning passion into living. Tune in to discover how you could make your life brighter too with the outdoors!   Love the show? Subscribe, rate, review, and share! https://ricksaez.com/listen/ Snippets 4:07 - 4:22 being a kid, I kind of wanted to like go fast and jump off things. [EP 303] 14:39 - 14:54 I bet I've spent like no joke, six or seven months in it of the last year. So. I've put a lot of wear and tear on it. [EP 303] 15:48 - 16:05 it doesn't matter if you're a climber or a fisherman or a mountain biker, or you're just like a guy or a girl who wants to go hiking or sightseeing or whatever.  [EP 303]

This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about chasing weather in New England, about Jaws II, about the FA of ‘Nu World’ 5.15a/b, about the ‘Event Horizon’ project (the direct finish to ‘Nu World’), and about some of the strategies and tactics Jonathan uses when returning for a new round of attempts on a multi-season project.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 26:42.

This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team  Nuggets:  [Chrissy Vadovszki]  1:37 – Introduction  1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles  3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending  6:17  – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects  8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes  9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire  10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants  [Jonathan Siegrist]  12:13 – Introduction  12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery  19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard  22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure  24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend  [Ken Klein]  26:12 – Introduction  27:06 – Coffee for breakfast  29:09 – “Climbing is magic.”  30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing  33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard  34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves  38:09 – The One-Touch drill  40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown  41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing  44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs  48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard  51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load  52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove  54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals  56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.”   1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions  1:04:28 – Owning the weight  [Carly Cain]  1:05:54 – Introduction  1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp   1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing   1:10:44 – Reframing  1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering  1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress  1:14:38 – Rifle!  [Alex Bridgewater]  1:15:58 – Introduction  1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves  1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence  1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight  1:20:47 – Positivity  1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person  1:23:59 – “To the death.”  1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard  [Kathryn Perkinson]  1:27:37 – Introduction  1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves  1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team  1:30:06 – Philosophy  1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp  1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach  1:33:02 – A helpful reminder  1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.”  1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.”  [Charlie Manganiello]  1:36:43 – Introduction  1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.”  1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely  1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away  1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.”  [Amanda Sempert]  1:48:07 – Introduction  1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links  1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank  1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues  1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension  1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training  [Outro]  2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast  

Steve Bechtel is a strength coach and the founder of Climb Strong. We talked about the gift of changing your mind, lessons from studying sprinting and how to apply them to climbing, developing aerobic capacity, why Jonathan Siegrist and BJ Tilden are such successful climbers, the “real secret” to success, creating better habits, and Logical Progression 2.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-bechtel  Nuggets:  2:25 – Steve’s house  3:38 – Kids, self-taught Parkour, and climbing at Orpierre  5:54 – The Climb Strong Training Camp, the complexity of climbing training, and why the questions always outnumber the answers  9:00 – Changing your mind, learning, and ego  11:41 – Simulation vs. specificity, changes in glycolytic or power endurance training, and when to train skills  15:39 – Peaking and adaptation persistence  17:22 – Studying speed and power, Charlie Francis’s workouts for 100m runners, and the Hi/Low training model  21:02 – Developing alactic capacity for boulderers  22:58 – Example alactic capacity circuit  26:46 – Developing the aerobic system (the “Low”) and shrinking the anaerobic zone  28:57 – Training the “High” via alactic intervals and strength and power, and the Zlagboard test  29:39 – Route 4x4s as an alternative to ARC training (and how to not screw them up)  31:31 – Three cues for finding the right intensity for route 4x4’s to develop aerobic capacity: 1) nasal breathing, 2) conversational intensity, 3) light fatigue or no pump  33:56 – Other activities to develop general cardiovascular capacity, and the MAF (Maximum Aerobic Function) heart rate formula for aerobic training (180 beats minus your age)  37:08 – Training general cardiovascular capacity in a city, Margo Hayes on ‘La Rambla’, and learning to calm down  40:00 – Jonathan Siegrist’s aerobic capacity, sub-goals, and big days  44:39 – ‘9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’, climbing with BJ Tilden, and the difference between the pros and everyone else  46:31 – The real “secret” to success, habits, and systems  48:33 – Behaviors, and first, second, and third-order results  50:18 – Why BJ is so strong and successful as a climber, taking time off, and focusing on doing things better  56:03 – BJ’s training for ‘Biographie’, juggling a business and kids, and his partner Emily  58:31 – Thing I was confused about #1, the role of strength training, the 2x2 deadlift workout, and why Jonathan Siegrist only trains in his offseason  1:04:14 – Steve’s hangboard experiment for maintaining strength, strain gauges, finding the bare minimum, and testing yourself on benchmark climbs  1:08:04 – Simple strength benchmarks for climbers, and strength training as we get older to maintain muscle mass  1:11:10 – Thing I was confused about #2, hung up on finding the “best” program, and seeing programs through to fruition  1:16:27 – The ice cube analogy  1:17:49 – Looking behind the curtain on your training program  1:19:03 – Hangboarding, expected results, and the true marks of a successful program  1:24:53 – Jonathan as a “redpoint climber”, and risking failure vs. having a successful training session  1:27:15 – Why Steve is so excited about skill development as the next big thing in “training”  1:30:52 – Logical Progression 2, and an example strength focus block of training  1:35:31 – “What got you here won’t get you there”, and avoiding a common mental trap  1:37:58 – Is the 2nd edition worth buying if you own the original?  1:38:24 – Gratitude for Ellen (Steve’s wife)  1:39:44 – Dinner and meeting the Climb Strong team, and learning from his own coaches

JStar sat down with me via Zoom and we had a nice conversation on a range of different topics. Such a rad dude!Hope you enjoy!!

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current training methods, how he mixes in climbing with training, tactics for quick redpointing, a new direction for his climbing, and The Fins project.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jonathan-siegrist  Nuggets:  3:31 – Breakfast, how Jonathan eats on a climbing day, favorite bars, and eating the local cuisine when traveling  8:38 – Training for the Red by climbing on campus rungs on the treadwall (while wearing socks)  13:21 – Jonathan’s training evolution, and sending ‘Jumbo Love’  18:18 – Current training methodology (broad strokes), working with Steve Bechtel, and adding more rest between sets and training days  21:21 – Carving out more time for the same number of training sessions  22:35 – Jonathan’s three favorite strength exercises (not related to finger strength)  26:46 – More about weighted pull-ups and how Jonathan generally programs and advances his training  29:19 – Combining heavy sets with plyometrics, and taking 10-15 minute rest between sets  30:56 – Circuit style hangboarding vs. straight sets  32:48 – 7:13 repeaters, why Jonathan now prefers them over 7:3, trying new things, and thinking about trying max hangs in the future  37:19 – How Jonathan integrates outdoor climbing with training and the benefits of combining the two  42:00 – Sending ‘One Hundred Proof’, and shifting focus to prioritize redpoint days  44:09 – Why Jonathan doesn’t do any maintenance training, and the importance of trying hard  47:36 – Jonathan’s propensity toward endurance, and the one thing he would do different if he could go back in time  49:47 – How Jonathan thinks about strength and power training vs. bouldering  50:36 – Sending ’Trice’ back in 2009, learning to climb at flagstaff, and testing well at finger strength but not knowing how to move fast  55:09 – “The magic of climbing”, how Jonathan stacks up against other 9b climbers and prioritizing sending  57:58 – Climbing with Adam Ondra and inspiration to focus more on flash and onsight climbing  1:02:43 – Jonathan’s approach to second-go redpointing, his affinity for remembering beta, and removing hesitation  1:04:49 – Jonathan’s spray wall drill to practice memorizing sequences, and how he uses visualization  1:08:42 – How Jonathan thinks about deciding between second-go redpointing vs. flash or onsight  1:11:36 – Leveling up, hopes to return to old crags to finish old projects, and Jonathan’s desire to (eventually) move away from sport climbing  1:18:14 – Multipitch sport climbing, and “the single coolest thing” Jonathan hopes to do with his climbing  1:19:33 – Trying the Dawn Wall with Tommy, and why Yosemite big wall climbing isn’t at the top of his list  1:21:34 – The Fins project  1:28:51 – Experimenting with techniques to combat dry skin and dry conditions, wet chalk, and Rhino Spit  1:31:52 – “Do you think that thing will be 15b?”, the polarizing crux of Algorithm, and Jonathan’s best try  1:34:08 – Establishing 5.15b in America and what makes that so hard (aside from it being hard…)  1:36:00 – Plans to head back up to The Fins  1:36:27 – Jonathan’s upcoming trip to Italy, plans to try Lapsus, and the coronavirus  1:40:09 – Why Jonathan is so grateful for his sponsors and how they have really stepped up to support him, and the Metolius Light Rail  1:43:58 – Writing, how his blog got hijacked and moving from jstarinorbit to jonathansiegrist.com, plans to write new content, and writing blogs for his brands  1:46:54 – Jonathan on Instagram and Twitter, his new YouTube channel, and plans for upcoming videos with EpicTV  1:49:17 – The Fins project video (WIP)  1:50:35 – What Jonathan thinks holds back most climbers, and trying to spend 75% of your time climbing (on rock) and only 25% training (or climbing inside)  1:53:11 – “Try hard.”  1:53:58 – My poster of Jonathan, and being an inspiration as the best thing Jonathan feels like he can ask for  

En el tercer capitulo de Magnesia platicamos con Bernardo González, escalador poblano con 4 años de experiencia abriendo y desarrollando zonas de escalada, tanto boulder como deportiva. Hablamos sobre las bases para empezar un desarrollo y como hacerlo de una manera responsable, respetando el medio ambiente y las comunidades cercanas a las diferentes zonas. Para conocer más sobre las noticias y los temas que platicamos, te compartimos las ligas a las fuentes originales. Jonathan Siegrist hace el primer acenso de “One Hundred Proof” (5.15a). Resultados del Campeonato Continental de la IFSC PAN AM Edu Marín abre el debate sobre la graduación con rodilleras Adam Ondra en Silence Como armar una ruta deportiva en roca natural Encuentra a Berni en Instagram como @bernardoglezt y a la zona del Texistle como @el_texistle Síguenos en Instagram: @magnesiapodcast Escríbenos a magnesiapodcast@gmail.com para recomendarnos temas e invitados. --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app

My good friend and Episode 16 guest Dru Mack stopped by during the International Climbers Festival in Lander to chat, and of course the conversation turned to climbing. He told me about a list that Jonathan Siegrist had created for him - a list that is a surefire way to make sure that Dru's development as a climber isn't lacking.  I needed to know more, so I sat down with Dru, Nate, and our friend John Wesely to discuss the list, and the potential growth (and pitfalls) that might be involved in the attempts at completing the list.  There's also some very important commentary from a special guest.  We always have a lot of fun in this podcast, but this episode was particularly fun to record and put together. I've known Dru since his first 5.12's, so it's fun to see him progressing both in climbing and in life.  Dru has become a Red River superstar, and well on his way to taking that to a larger platform. Since JStar so graciously offered his help, we thought it would be great if Dru came up with similar lists for the up and coming Red River Climbers. Dru drafted his lists, Nate and I critiqued, and eventually the lists were finalized. We wanted to follow the format JStar had put forth - some of the routes are going to feel hard for the grade. Some of them are going to teach you new skills. You'll learn from every one of them.  So download them to your phone, print them out, stash them in your guidebook. Have Dru sign your copy when you see him.  DOWNLOAD THE LISTS HERE FOLLOW DRU ON INSTAGRAM Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

This week we’re picking up where we left off with Jonathan Siegrist, who’s been at the top of American rock climbing for over a decade. Over that time, he has watched the sport change and grow dramatically, and he’s spent a lot of time reflecting on those changes and his own relationship with the sport. In this episode, we get a little deeper into his thoughts on the up-and-coming generation; his time on the Dawn Wall with Tommy Caldwell; what role “adventure” plays in climbing; and how we can shape the future of the sport in a positive way.Topics:Changes in the new generation of climbers (1:00)Climbing and adventurism (6:00)Why Jonathan is primarily known as a sport climber (10:40)Jonathan’s time with Tommy Caldwell on the Dawn Wall (13:00)Adam Ondra’s fast repeat of the Dawn Wall (16:20)What separates Adam from other climbers (21:00)How the climbing community can improve (25:30) See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

This is the first half of our conversation with professional rock climber Jonathan Siegrist. Jonathan is one of America's most psyched climbers. After years spent climbing full time, he has an impressive resume of hard ticks, both on bolts and gear. He also has a deep enthusiasm for the sport, its history, and his fellow climbers. We covered a lot of ground, so we broke the conversation into two parts.Topics:Jonathan's entrance into the climbing (6:45)Origin of his nickname JSTAR (8:50)Life in Vegas (12:50)Red Rocks, Smith Rock, The Gunks and other crags (25:10)How Jonathan’s goals have changed over time (29:50)Why Jonathan was obsessed with climbing “old” routes (32:05)Impact of gyms and technology on climbing (39:50)Differences in the new generation of hard climbers (45:07) See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway.  We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.   You can find Jonathan at http://www.jstarinorbit.com, where he keeps what is likely the best blog in all of climbing.  Definitely go check out his recent posts on Pachamama, a 15a that after 8 weeks of effort, he had to walk away from.   You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com. You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast. Share us on your social medias!    We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.  

CONVERSATION w JONATHAN SIEGRIST - One of America's Most Prolific Rock Climbers. Jonathan has sent nearly '100' 5.14's including: Lucifer, Kryptonite, Necessary Evil, Pure Imagination, New World Order, and he has recently joined the 5.15 club by climbing Biographie, and La Ramba. Taped shortly after the 2016 Presidential Elections, Jonathan provides a unique perspective through the eyes of a Millennial and he shares the training techniques (both mentally and physically) that enabled him to make the transition to 5.15. To learn more about Jonathan please visit http://www.tripleblack.com/jonathan-siegrist Music: http://www.bensound.com

About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s. He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park). He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond. Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable. Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him. Why counting # of tries is pointless His meticulous skin care How to heal a split tip Body weight and performance (real talk) Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore Bouldering as training Jonathan Siegrist Links Jonathan on Facebook Jonathan on Instagram @jonathansiegrist Jonathan's website: www.jstarinorbit.com My 1st Podcast Interview with Jonathan Videos of him climbing (lots) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. [button link="http://frictionlabs.com/pages/training-beta" color="green" size="large" type="" shape="" target="_self" title="" gradient_colors="|" gradient_hover_colors="|" accent_color="" accent_hover_color="" bevel_color="" border_width="1px" shadow="" icon="" icon_divider="yes" icon_position="left" modal="" animation_type="0" animation_direction="down" animation_speed="0.1" class="" id=""]Get Some Chalk[/button]   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

This interview is with one of my really good friends, Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star. I met Jonathan about 4 or 5 years ago and for some reason we just clicked and have stayed tight ever since. He's one of my favorite people, and you'll understand why that is if you listen to this interview :) The interview was actually done at the house we just shared with him for a few months in Las Vegas, where we spent a lot of time up at the Promised Land and some other awesome areas with Jonathan. I got to belay him on his recent first ascent of the 5.14c he put up, Spectrum, and I can say that no matter how many times I watch him climb, it’s always incredible. I mean, besides the fact that he warms up on my epic projects, it’s incredible ;) He always tries hard, he’s psyched to be climbing, he doesn’t toss wobblers – or at least I’ve never seen him do it – and I think it’s because he’s truly grateful for every opportunity he gets to be on rock outside. He’s also really into training indoors, especially because he’s got some big goals for this year. We’ll talk about his goals and his training in the interview. He's done something like 140 routes rated 5.14a and above, including 19 5.14c's and 6 5.14d's. He won a Golden Piton Award for Breakaway Success in 2009 after his groundbreaking trip to the Red River Gorge, where his highlights included quick sends of the 5.14c’s Lucifer, Southern Smoke, and Fifty Words for Pump, three 5.14a flashes, three 5.13c onsights, and onsights of 10 routes graded either 5.13a or 5.13b, among other things. You can see his full climbing resumé here. Jonathan and I sat down in my closet in Vegas (it was a big closet and the only place that didn't echo in our house - ha ha!) and talked about all things J-Star, including how he trains now compared to how he used to train, what he eats, his love life (he's taken for now, ladies), and his dreams. What We Talked About His favorite kind of climbing His biggest achievements and biggest failures Whether he'll try to be a pro climber forever How traveling so much affects his relationships with the ladies Where he'd like to call home someday 5.15? What it takes to climb 5.14+ How he keeps his skin in shape for sharp crimpy routes How he trains now and who he's coached by How that compares with how he used to train What he eats and why (he's a pescatarian) What he thinks body weight's role is in sending hard How often he parties Related Links Jonathan's website is www.jstarinorbit.com Jonathan interviewed me on his site here. He helped me create a training plan for myself (that worked!) and I blogged about it here. Sponsors The podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending! If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Listen on iTunes Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Music Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings  Thanks for listening!    

On Episode 33 of the Enormocast, I lure yet another subject to the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City (I think I deserve a couple free nights for all this publicity, eh?). Wunderkind Jonathan Siegrist sits down to reveal his climbing pedigree and a stunning background on big routes. He tells of early beat-downs in … Continue reading "Episode 33: Jonathan Siegrist- Born to be a bad (and by that, we mean good)."