Garmology

Garmology is back! Today I'm visited by Max Leonard and Henry Iddon, creators of the book "Mountain Style - British Outdoor Clothing 1953-2000". We have a good old natter about the great British outdoors, expeditions of yore, how creativity led to development, new fabrics for new times and much much more. You can find the book at Isola press or at most other booksellers of merit. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Please note: This is the audio part of a video that I have uploaded to YouTube. You can search for "Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle" (or use the link in the show notes, or go to WellDressedDad.com to find it).Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations.  In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a continuation of our contact I was invited to visit Nigel in his studio in Newcastle in April 2024. For me, it was a chance to learn more about the inspirations and working methods behind legendary collections such as "The Ascent of Cabourn" and "Scott's Last Expedition", and naturally to learn more about what is in the pipeline.Youtube link: Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Embark on a journey of unexpected turns and intriguing transformations as we sit down with today's guest, Kenneth McClure, the sole operator of Noble & Whylie, a maker of handmade shoes based in Sheffield. Kenneth's story is a testament to the twists and turns of fate, starting from a desire to create, studying fashion, and exploring various avenues before stumbling upon the captivating world of small-scale shoe-making. Join us as we unravel the fascinating narrative that bridges the gap between these two distinct points in Kenneth's journey. Tune in for a captivating conversation filled with surprising anecdotes and enlightening insights.You can find Noble & Whylie on the web at nobleandwylie.com and on Instagram as @nobleandwhylie  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Join us on our journey to uncover hidden gems in the world of small-scale creators as we venture to Glasgow for an enlightening conversation with Gillian McNeill of LAW Design Studio. Gillian shares her journey from a budding creative spirit to establishing her own independent venture. We delve into her passion for design, her following the conventional path in fashion studies, and the pivotal moments that led her to forge her own path in the industry. Central to our discussion are the timeless qualities of design and the secret sauce that keeps customers returning for more. Tune in as we unravel the story behind LAW Design Studio and explore the essence of enduring style and customer loyalty.You can find LAW Design Studio on the web as lawdesignstudio.com and on Instagram as @lawdesignstudio    Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week's guest is David Courtney of Courtney & Co, arguably the last of the traditional button makers in the UK. I was keen to invite David for a chat about how he happened into what is a rather unusual business, requiring as it does both a plethora of machinery and some rather special source materials. Not to mention the skills and knowledge to make buttons actually happen! A challenge indeed, not least when customs officers get in touch to ask about the box of white stuff that's arrived from South America...You can find Courtney & Co on the web here and on Instagram as @courtneycobuttonmakers Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebrated by sewing enthusiasts worldwide, to the therapeutic power of sewing, we explore the intricacies of fabric sourcing and Carolyn's identity as a maker above all else. Join us as we also discuss the launch of new sewing retreats, offering a sanctuary for creative exploration.You can find Merchant & Mills on the web at merchantandmills.com and on Instagram as @merchantandmills  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode, we journey to Sunderland for an insightful conversation with Simon McAleese. Join us as Simon shares his journey from creating illustrations to honing an eye for sartorial intricacies. We delve into how his passion for menswear sparked the dream of launching his own brand, and navigating the highs and lows of entrepreneurship. Simon candidly discusses the challenges of balancing sustainability with brand ambitions and the nitty-gritty details of production. Plus, we explore the common struggle of grappling with impostor syndrome and questioning the path taken. Tune in as Simon unveils the raw realities behind the dream of building a fashion brand.You can find Simon on Instagram as @deliberateindifference and @saccadeclothing, and on the web as  saccadeclo.com  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Get ready to dive into the dynamic world of UK manufacturing as we jet back to the UK for a lively chat with Kate Hills. Kate takes us on a whirlwind journey through her fascinating career path, from pioneering circular fashion fresh out of college to designing quirky kids' clothing. We'll follow her adventures to Italy, where she crafted designs for Levi's while indulging in pizza, and then to the bustling halls of Burberry before navigating the twists and turns of the High Street fashion scene. Hold onto your seats as we explore Kate's resilient pivot into her current venture, championing brands and makers committed to the UK manufacturing landscape.You can find Kate and Make It British at www.makeitbritish.co.uk, and on Instagram: www.instagram.com/makeitbritish and finally on Linkedin: www.linkedin/in/katehills Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Join us on today's podcast journey to Oslo, a city close to home for me, where we sit down with Inger Kristin Haugsevje to explore the world of vintage denim. From discussing the evolving landscape of vintage supplies to the intersection of vintage fashion trends, we delve into the industry's nuances. Unpacking the environmental impact of extensively travelled vintage garments and the value proposition behind quality secondhand clothing, we uncover the complexities of sustainability in fashion. Additionally, we uncover the irresistible allure that led Inger Kristin to establish not just one, but two, vintage emporiums, spurred on by the simple desire for a nice cup of coffee in her own shop.You can find Vintage Jeans in Oslo on the web as vintagejeans.no and on Instagram as @vintagejeansoslo  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this week's episode, we venture to Brighton to meet the luminary of a distinctive musical niche, Chap Hop. Jim Burke, known as Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer, has masterfully blended gentlemanly pursuits with banjolele-infused hip hop. As customary, we delve into his background, tracing his journey from a musically gifted youth to stumbling into the world of rap, and the startling realization that tweed may not be the most practical stage attire. Supported by his faithful supporters—the Biscuits—and fueled by an unyielding creative drive, Jim shares insights into his prolific output and newfound fascination with siren suits. And, in a twist of fate, I may have accidentally started a beef with the delightful Will and Marie from Old Town (also esteemed friends of the podcast). You can find Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer on the web at gentlemanrhymer.com  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Step into the world of heritage menswear with this week's guest, Yuki Matsuda, the mastermind behind MEG Company and renowned brands Monitaly, Yuketen, Epperson Mountaineering, and Chamola. From his roots in Osaka to his early passion for vintage apparel, Yuki shares his remarkable journey of being thrust into the heart of the industry as a teenager sent to the US to source stock. Tune in as we unravel the tale of persistence, innovation, and unwavering passion that has cemented Yuki Matsuda's status as a true legend among aficionados of premium menswear.You can find Yuki's work at yuketen.com, eppersonmountaineering.com and chamulaoriginal.com, and on Instagram as @yuketenbymegco, @monitalybymegco, @chamulabymegco and @eppersonmountaineering     @yuketenbymegco@monitalybymegco@chamulabymegco@eppersonmountaineering Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

It's no secret that podcast enthusiasts often form a connection with their favourite hosts. Granting someone access to your lugholes for hours on end, it's quite natural that over time a lopsided friendship of sort occurs. After immersing myself in Jeremy Kirkland's "Blamo!" podcast for countless hours over the years, I extended an invitation for him to join me on Garmology. Our conversation delves into Jeremy's unpredictable career journey, spanning from being in a band to music promotion to fashion entrepreneurship and celebrity styling, along with discussions on evolving tastes, the influence of social media and influencers, and the symbiotic relationship between brands and free advertising. Plus, I attempt to unravel the mystery of "getting fits off." Tune in for a delightful and insightful session!You can find Jeremy and Blamo! on the web as blamopod.com and on Instagram as @blamopodcast  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Buckle up for a journey through the untamed landscapes of Sussex as we sit down with Jonathan Kelly, the cheeky chap behind Sussex Tweed. Best brew a large pot as this episode is a long one. Join us as we delve into Jonathan's transformation from a burnt-out commuter to a connoisseur of exquisite tweed caps. Discover the allure of weaving yarn and the irresistible pull of dreams intertwined with the rhythmic clatter of looms.Hold onto your seat for a thrilling road trip from the vibrant streets of Brighton to the rugged shores of Stornoway, all aboard a trusty Land Rover navigating treacherous conditions. Experience the exhilaration of restoring dusty old Hattersley looms to their former glory with the aromatic touch of paraffin.But wait, there's more! Dive into Jonathan's enchanting tales of growing up in Ireland, where chance encounters led him to share a stage with none other than U2. And yes, expect a sprinkle of colourful language along the way – consider it an education for the uninitiated.So grab your favourite mug, and settle in, while we tell stories that weave together the threads of adventure, passion, and the timeless artistry of craftsmanship. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week on the podcast, we venture to Germany for an engaging conversation with Philipp Maertens from Taktonik. Taktonik specializes in crafting bags and other products from upcycled army surplus materials. Philipp shares how his fascination with creating was ignited by the discovery of shiny trousers fashioned from airmail bags. We delve into Philipp's unique approach of weaving narratives through the amalgamation of materials sourced from diverse origins, including his process of repurposing metal zips from G-suits. The discussion also explores the rich history of camouflage and the fascinating intricacies behind silk escape maps. We touch upon the power of social media in connecting individuals with shared passions globally and the significance of upcycling highly specific military gear in sustainability efforts. And of course, we couldn't forget to discuss the experience of meeting your idols.You can find  Philip and Taktonik on the web  as taktonik.de and on Instagram as @taktonik  Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Tragically Chris died in a kayaking accident just weeks after recording this episode. Hence a bonus repost in memory of Christopher and to celebrate that his monumental work, the website "Clothes on film" is back online. Se link in episode notes for the updated address.

Embark on an enthralling journey as we delve into the world of Sam Goates, a seasoned textile designer turned solitary weaver in the quaint port of Buckie, North Scotland. Sam breathes life into a vintage Hattersley loom, weaving bespoke fabrics for clients worldwide.Join us in conversation as Sam shares tales of her time in Australia, the intricacies of non-Harris Tweed weaving, and the challenges of maintaining a vintage loom. From the joys and frustrations of employing family members to the perpetual battle against the clock, Sam unveils the realities of her craft.Inevitably, sustainability takes centre stage as we discuss mindful consumption, the quest for cherished garments, and the essence of buying better and less. Tune in for a captivating exploration of craftsmanship, family ties, and the timeless pursuit of sartorial treasures.You can find Woven In the Bone on the web here and on Instagram as @wovenintheboneGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week, join us on a captivating journey to Cologne, Germany, as we sit down with Niklas Hoppe, the embodiment of vintage flair known as Vintagebursche. From a 16-year-old metalhead to a sartorial connoisseur of 1920s fashion, Niklas unfolds his fascinating evolution.Delve into the realms of vintage recreation, role-playing, and Niklas's venture into writing a sewing book for crafting your own vintage garments. We explore the intriguing concept of "The Rules," dissecting their meaning and relevance. Plus, discover the expansive community that has rallied behind Niklas's work across various media platforms. Tune in for a riveting story of transformation, style, and the allure of timeless fashion.You can find links to all Niklas activities and the book here , as vintagebursche on Youtube and as @vintagebursche on Instagram.Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week, we embark on a journey to Brighton to talk to Allan Brown about his profound connection with nettles. Allan's unwavering commitment to crafting a garment from inception unfolded against the backdrop of his local woodlands, where the unassuming nettle became a transformative medium.Delicately harvesting and methodically drying the plants, the meticulous process of extracting fibres and skillfully spinning them into thread, culminating in the weaving of cloth and the creation of a dress — a testament to the resolute spirit of one man's quest.Allan's odyssey is now encapsulated in the cinematic portrayal, "The Nettle Dress." Through this film, he not only shares the intricacies of his undertaking but also delves into the profound background, reflective thoughts, and therapeutic nuances of the spinning process. Join us as we navigate the tapestry of Allan's journey, a story woven with threads of dedication, mindfulness, and the profound beauty found in the simplicity of nature.You can find Allan on Instagram as @hedgerow.couture Full info about The Nettle Dress film is on the web at nettledress.org and on Instagram as @nettledressfilmGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Get ready for an engaging chat with Mark Musgrave, the creative force behind the ethical micro-brand The Level Collective. They craft robust backpacks, purposeful clothing, and useful tools, blending old-world craftsmanship with a modern minimalist flair—all while championing environmental stewardship.Mark, a self-professed product design enthusiast, is an accidental entrepreneur juggling numbers while staying true to his design ethos. Collaborating with local artisans, he transforms visions into reality. Amid this, he shares the secret to his success: establishing boundaries for a harmonious work-life balance—a personally sustainable approach to making it all work.You can find The Level collection on the web as thelevelcollective.com and on Instagram as @thelevelcollectiveGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen. 

This week I'm heading back to Scotland for a chat with Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, a self-proclaimed rebel mill outside Inverness. From a background as a chartered accountant, Clare took a u-turn, or maybe a swerve, when she discovered a passion for the traditional tartan and from there decided to establish a mill, using ancient looms, with no clue at all about how to use them. We get into what it means to run an ethical and transparent business, getting off social media, going zero waste, what B Corp status means and how being a rebel can mean doing this the opposite way of established business practices.You can find Prickly Thistle on the web at pricklythistle.shop.Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week, we're diving headfirst into the captivating world of clothing with Rebecca Smith, author of "The Happy Dresser"! Join us on a journey as we explore the profound significance of garments in our lives, unlock the cherished memories they hold, and unravel the compelling stories woven into our very fabrics. We talk about the impact of fashion on our well-being, peek inside the treasure troves of our wardrobes, and get into the pros and cons of crafting our very own couture. Is social media a platform for judgment or perhaps a sacred diary of self-expression? Naturally, sustainability gets a look-in as we chart a course towards a more eco-conscious future. And let's not overlook the allure of a certain pair of dazzling gold boots that's sure to leave you in awe! You can buy "The Happy Dresser" on the web here, and find Rebecca on Instagram as @rebeccaweefsmithGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week we head back to Accrington in Lancashire for a follow-up chat with Iain Trickett. We get to hear how an interest in vintage army clothing led to bringing a retired chap in Mexico back to the loom, how a high street brands cancelled order gets a new lease of life in Iain's ultimate jacket, how knocking on a door holding a pair of socks can lead to interesting things, and how tweed really is the technical fabric of the future. Oh, and much more.You can find Trickett on the web at trickett-england.co.uk and on Instagram as @trickettenglandGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Due to illness, this week sees a rerun about my favourite cloth, Harris Tweed! This weeks episode is all about Harris Tweed, a legend among cloths and arguably the most socially significant of fabrics. My guests this week are Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton from the Hebridean Islands. Lorna is CEO of the Harris Tweed Authority, promoters and protectors of the tweed, and Rebecca Hutton, an independent single-width weaver at Taobhtuath Tweeds. We talk about the history of weaving, life on the islands, how the actual Harris Tweed came to be, the significance of the Orb symbol and the legal protection, life as a weaver, the ups and downs of Harris Tweed and more. Lots of good stories, solid information and more than a few laughs.The Harris Tweed Authority is on the web  harristweed.org and on Instagram as @harristweedauthority.Rebecca Hutton and Taobhtuath Tweeds is on the web as taobhtuathtweeds.com and on Instagram as @taobhtuathGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Today's episode takes us to Macclesfield, where Brita Hirsch is celebrating 5 years since starting The Tailoring Academy. From an inconspicuous start upstairs at the local haberdashery shop to its current incarnation with 40 students from a wide range of nationalities and ages, both in-house and online. As per usual, the route that led there isn't straightforward and Brita is happy to share the story. Get ready for a heady mix of historical, industrial, esthetical, the Great Northern Cloth, research, collaborations and a little engineering.You can find Brita and The Tailoring Academy on Instagram as @tailoringacademy and on the web as www.tailoringacademy.co.ukGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Today we head to the small island of Guernsey to learn more about the legendary wool sweater often known as the "ganzie". Rachael Laine is the owner of Le Tricoteur, maker of guernseys on Guernsey and we gain insight into what exactly makes a ganzie, the historical nature of the garment, the stories of old, and how it fits into modern times. Oh, and how Rachael happened to buy her family company without realising her family had actually started it! And also, just what are the origins of the company name?You can find Le Tricoteur on Instagram as @letricouteur and on the web as letricoteur.coGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Season premiere! This episode is about the epic task set by Justine Aldersey-Williams of The Wild Dyery and Northern England Fibreshed to create a pair of jeans from seed entirely in the UK. You might think this sounds simple enough, grow some fibres, dye, weave and sew, right? That's what Justine thought when starting out. Listen in to hear the twisty tale of learning many new skills, finding plenty of help, a fair few unexpected problems and what might be the most costly jeans in the UK.  You can find Justine on Instagram as @thewilddyery and The Wild Dyery on the web here and Northern England Fibreshed here. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can  buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Well, it's that time of the season again, when we call it a wrap, take a break and plot our movies. As usual, I'm joined by Shaun & Jon, well-known and popular voices from previous festive specials, and we have a friendly chat about what we're wearing, current males fashions, what we're into and out to, buying and selling, socks, pervy plastic jackets, collecting stuff, what makes shoes comfy, resoling, waxed jackets and whatnots. Like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears.Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka These_Rough_Notes and HeavyJon on Instagram.Early reviews of this episode are mixed, so your listening pleasure is uncertain:Tortoise Trends commented, "We appreciate the slow pace of the proceedings".VintageWear Weekly gushingly praised "At least they don't mention whiffy vintage garms this time!"Giffnock Advertiser noted, "Local celeb Shaun gets properly stuck into the proceedings and we love it."Stationary Engine Magazine said, "These guys sound like our kind of people.“Teddy Bear Times said, "Gets a bit boring in the middle then better at the end.“The Country Smallhold said, “They dress for the occasion but are they up to it?”Business of Fashion stated, "Clearly our days of shilling for the man are over, all hail the three kings."Gentleman's Quarterly: "A laidback and comfortably paced chat perfect for accompanying the preparation of sprouts".Amateur Carp Fishing Monthly said, “ It's not really our thing.“Carnoustie Guide & Gazette said, “It's a podcast with men talking.“From Twitter @JeansAndSheux "The scene appreciates the respect shown and offers a Peroni in return."Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Something a little different today! Not a fresh slice of garmology for your ears, but by way of a feed swap, I'm introducing you to the podcast Check Your Thread, a podcast about sustainable sewing. The idea of a feed swap is to introduce a compatible podcast to a swapped listenership, so to speak, to help reach fresh ears.Check Your Thread is a weekly podcast that looks at how to sew (and live) more sustainably. For those who are concerned about the climate crisis but love sewing their own clothes, it's an opportunity to nerd out about garment sewing, whilst discovering ways to reduce the impact it may have on the planet. CYT is hosted by Zoe Edwards, a writer, blogger, dressmaking teacher and general sewing and sustainability obsessive.The listeners of Check Your Thread have been enjoying an episode of Garmology this week, specifically the outdoor gear-repair episode with Rosanna Watson of Snowdonia Gear Repair. Now you can listen on and hear Zoe chat with the mysterious person known only as the crap activist."Do you consider yourself a climate activist? If many of your everyday life decisions are made with the planet in mind, then you definitely should. Rachel, AKA The Crap Activist, chose to fast track her activism by making one positive change every single day for an entire year. She shares her surprising wins and fails, and gives tips on successfully bringing your family along for the ride…"As always, I really appreciate the feedback. If you'd like to rate and leave a review on Apple Podcasts or rate on Spotify. Please  follow or subscribe to get new episodes immediately in your app. This really makes the episode statistics very pleasing!Find and follow The Crap Activist on Instagram @thecrapactivist.Find more about Zoe and the Check Your Thread at checkyourthread.com  

Today we follow our nose and head to Oslo, Norway to chat with Rasa Maria Gundersen of Naturales Oslo about the world of scents. We enjoy a chat about her background, influences and experience, how she constructs scents, the difference between natural scents and the more commonly used synthetics, what scents mean to us on a fundamental level, and even what would be my preferred scent. And no, it's not damp wool!You can find Naturales on the web here and on Instagram as @naturales_oslo.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Today we head off to rural Northern Ireland to talk to Mario Sierra, third-generation weaver at the family-owned Mourne Textiles. While Ireland has long been known for its linen, Mario is concerned that after some parts of the linen industry were closed down around 30 years ago, the skills and technology to process flax are on the verge of being lost forever. This has led him to seek out remaining machinery for processing linen fibres and people that have the know-how and skills to operate them. To aid in this he is running a crowdfunding drive to start up a micro-mill to process linen fibres through to yarn. We talk about the ambitions and the challenges, of life in in a family-run weaving business and quite a bit about what makes a product meaningful. Oh, and Mario's urge to weave Irish denim!You can find the "Fibre to Fabric" crowdfunding on the web here.Mourne Textiles are on the web here and on Instagram as @mournetextiles.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Today I bring back Niamh Carr of NemCee and Gary Newbold of English Utopia for a catch-up on how they are getting on. The idea was to have an open and frank chat about aspects of the fashion business from the point of view of small brands, what makes a brand, what quality implies and how that impacts how you work, etc. Suffice it to say, rabbit holes were found and scurried into!You can find NeemCee on the web here and on Instagram as @_neemceeYou can find English Utopia on Instagram as @englishutopia and on the web as englishutopia.com.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

It's been a long time coming, but this week finally sees iconic British designer Nigel Cabourn guest Garmology for a wide-ranging and openhearted chat about why he really got into fashion design, his inspirations and heroes, the ups and downs of life and business, his love of travelling, meeting people and collecting vintage garments, the collection that never happened, and being taught fitness the traditional way. Oh, and comparing his designs to Mr Potato Head?Warning: Nigel does swear occasionally and the sound quality is dodgy at times, but it does improve again.You can find Nigel on Instagram as @nigel_cabourn.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen. 

This week's guest is Eva Kittelsen, author and visible mending activist, sewing bee contestant, fashion and textile designer and entrepreneur. We talk about her starting out in the fashion industry, her experiences in fast fashion, how getting involved in ethical production changed things and how mending came to be so important, both as a way to repair clothes and as a way to reassemble life. You can find Eva on the web at www.myvisiblemend.no, on Instagram as @myvisiblemend.no and @evakittelsen, also on TikTok as @myvisiblemend.no, BuyMeACoffeee and on Facebook.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen. 

This week's guest is Dr Kat Jungnickel, sociologist (from Goldsmiths, University of London), cyclist, tweed enthusiast and keen investigator of historical clothing patents. We talk about how the popularity of 'safety' bicycles in Britain in the 1890s became a catalyst for the women's rights movement and led to sartorial inventions and patents for new forms of (convertible) cycle wear that switched from street wear to cycle wear. Kat and her team of sewing social scientists reconstruct many of the innovative solutions from the past and reflect on how these designs helped women lead active independent lives.You can find Dr Kat Jungnickel's various projects here:Bikes and Bloomers on the webPolitics of Patents and the excellent "Women on the Move" film on the webThe full Kat Jungnickel website hereGarmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.  

This week's guest is Guy Hills, bon vivant and founder of Dashing Tweeds, makers of innovative tweed and dashing outfits thereof. We get into the joy of tailoring, menswear history, why tweed is a top technical fabric, old money fashion, tweed runs, why tailored tweed is the hard drug of garments and more. Oh, and what a true garmsman does when your wife demands you cover your cycling tweed with a reflective vest.You can find Dashing Tweeds on the web here and on Instagram as @dashingtweedsGarmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week's guest is Allon Zloof, a fourth-generation hatmaker with the family-owned Tom Smarte. We talk about different styles, a bit of history, where hats are at today, changes in the hatmaking industry, how to select a hat to suit you, sizing, materials and maybe more importantly how to find the confidence to don a hat! You can find Tom Smarte on the web here and on Instagram as @tomsmarte.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.  

Today we are off to the British seaside to meet Kelly Dawson and Scott Ogden of Dawson Denim, a small maker of quality jeans. We talk about how Kelly became increasingly disenchanted with her career in the garment industry, about Japanese denim, how offering free repairs brought media mentions, meeting through the vintage music scene and how their shared interest in nostalgia has informed their designs. Oh, Scott's erratic style transformations and his years living in 1966!You can find Dawdon Denim on the web at dawsondenim.com and on Instagram as @dawsondenim.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen. 

In this episode, Rosanna Watson of Snowdonia Gear Repair drops in to talk about the boom in outdoor gear, designing for repairability, greenwashing in the outdoor industry, the problem with "sustainable" proofing, the balance between technical performance and durability, Goretex and synthetic fabric, why some like visible repairs and others don't and why you should start mending your clothes today. Oh, and a pro tip for one of the big things to look for when shopping for a new jacket. You can find Rosanna and Snowdonia Gear Repair on the web at snowdoniagearrepair.co.uk and on Instagram as @snowdoniagearrepairGarmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen. 

My guests today are Diane and James Welstead, veterans of the garment industry and entrepreneurs of well-based leg comfort, the Olaf McTarn. We talk about how the garment business has changed over the past decades, offshoring production, how textiles have changed, the joy of actually crafting things, the relevance of stories in marketing and even take a moment to consider the case for synthetic fabrics. PS: This is probably the most ASMR episode so far!You can find Olaf McTarn on the web at olafmctarn.com and on Instagram at @olafmctarn.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

We're off to Wales this week to talk to Ruth Emily Davey about her life making shoes. We talk about how she quite unintentionally started as a shoemaker's apprentice, grew to love the craft, her mentor and friend Alan James Raddon, why we can't all wear the same type of shoes and what a community means for the craft. And what it's like to discover your unique and special invention is suddenly pirated and sold in a plastic version.You can find Ruth Emily Davey on the web at  ruthemilydavey.co.uk and on Instagram as @ruthemilydavey.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

The week is an Ask Me Anything episode celebrating 10 years since the Well Dressed Dad blog started. The guest is your usual host, Nick Johannessen. With a wide range of reader-supplied questions, it's a rare opportunity for your regular host to get more than a few words in edge-wise and talk at length about tweed, sustainability, taking photos in the street, personal style, why the natural fabrics are the best, a fantasy custom garment, a definition of luxury, buying online and more. This week's guest host is Emma Johannessen.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week I'm visited by Laura Arnold, aka Reapersower, a digital content creator and menswear enthusiast from New York. We talk about how Laura has immersed herself in classic American menswear, taken on the Ivy, dressing for ourself instead of for social media, the difference between hoarding and cultivating a collection, what is actually vintage now and daring to be different.You can find Laura on Instagram as @reapersower and blog at reapersower.comGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen. 

Alec Farmer of Glasgow-based backpack company Trakke guests Garmology today to talk about how he got started as a luggage designer, living in a self-made microhouse in a Scottish winter, how the early bags were artefacts of found materials, being socially and environmentally responsible, the importance of evolving the product, while at the same time repairing and recycling what has already been made. And just what do you do when a customer wants you to make a bag out of a kevlar sail?You can find Trakke on the web at trakke.co.uk and on Instagram as @trakkebags.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Today I welcome Malú Colorín of Talu to Garmology. Malú is a natural dyer living in Ireland, though originally from Mexico. We have a grand natter about how she came to be working with textiles, the process of natural dyes, her passion for regenerative growing and starting the Irish chapter of Fibreshed. We also go down the deep rabbit hole of indigo and what "natural indigo" really is.You can find Talu on Instagram at @talu.earth, the Talu website, and additional links here.Fibreshed Ireland has their website here and Instagram as @fibreshed_irelandGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week I sit down with Bryan Szabo, author of "The Rebel's Wardrobe" and instigator of the Indigo Invitational. We talk about who the rebels were, the items of clothing they became known for and why these garments became so important. We also give a crash course in denim fades, why this is meaning full and how there is now a year long international competition to determine who has the best wear on their jeans.  You can find Bryan on Instagram as @denimstrummer, also  @indigoinvitational and @denimhuntersThe Rebel's Wardrobe is available from Gestalten on the web here.The Indigo Invitational is on the web here  and the Denimhunters Rebel Essentials here.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.