Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

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Openwork is a look inside the watch industry. A podcast from Collective Horology. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube and Google Podcasts.

Collective Horology


    • Jun 16, 2025 LATEST EPISODE
    • every other week NEW EPISODES
    • 51m AVG DURATION
    • 43 EPISODES


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    Latest episodes from Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

    What Enthusiasts Have Wrong – Dispelling the Watch Industry's Top Myths

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 16, 2025 45:13


    Having made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders and retailers in particular, we've come to realize that there are often big gaps between what commands attention in watch media and among collectors vs. the commercial realities. Many of the so-called “truths” we hold sacred as enthusiasts aren't really true after all. So today on Openwork, we're myth busting – taking a look at some of the widely held beliefs in the watch community that are actually in fact misconceptions. For show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Reviving the U.S. Watch Industry – Josh Shapiro (J.N. Shapiro)

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 2, 2025 59:23


    We discuss watchmaking in America – specifically what's required to bring watchmaking at scale back to the United States. It's a hot topic these days, particularly as U.S. tariffs, which have been dominating the news, are intended at least in part to bring manufacturing back to the United States. So with that in mind, we thought it would be worth taking a look at what would actually be required to restore the American watch industry. Our guest today is Josh Shapiro, an American independent watchmaker. Based in Los Angeles, and together with a team of watchmakers, engineers and machinists, Josh is bringing watchmaking of the highest level back to the United States. In fact, his latest creation, the Resurgence, is currently the only watch to meet the standard of “made in America” as defined by the United States Federal Trade Commission. For show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Editorial Integrity in Watch Media – Victoria Gomelsky (JCK, New York Times, Robb Report)

    Play Episode Listen Later May 19, 2025 62:35


    Editorial integrity and independence in the watch world. It's a hot topic, and one we've explored before. But that was before today's guest penned her open letter to the watch industry published in Robb Report titled: "Watch Execs Need to Learn to Respect Journalistic Boundaries." Victoria Gomelsky is editor-in-chief of JCK, a New York City-based jewelry trade publication founded in 1869. Her writing on watches, jewelry and travel has appeared in the New York Times, Robb Report, WSJ Magazine, and the Hollywood Reporter, among many others. For detailed show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Double Whammy of Tariffs and Foreign Exchange Rates – And How the Watch Industry Is Responding

    Play Episode Listen Later May 5, 2025 48:22


    We're going inside the industry response to the double whammy of US tariffs and foreign exchange rates. We're going to address common myths, offer a look behind the scenes at the industry response, and discuss the implications for watchmaking in the US. For detailed show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Watch Collectors Become More Discerning – Collective Voice Spring 2025 Listener Survey Results

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 21, 2025 60:05


    We delve into the results of the Spring 2025 Collective Voice Survey, our twice-yearly report on how collectors feel about all things watches. Our Spring 2025 survey offers a fresh look at what's on the minds of watch enthusiasts—what excites them, what frustrates them, and how those feelings translate (or don't) into actual buying behavior. Just like our inaugural survey in Summer 2024, this round was packed with thoughtful, candid, and occasionally contradictory responses. Full survey results are available at collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Special Episode: The Unsung Watches of Watches and Wonders 2025

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 7, 2025 36:43


    After a busy week in Geneva, we recap the most interesting watches we saw that aren't otherwise getting much attention. Visit the Collective blog for show notes with live photos and links: collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.  

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    Watches and Wonders 2025 – The Watch Industry Adapts to a New Normal

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 2, 2025 40:46


    Recorded at Watches and Wonders 2025, we look at the current state of the show, some of the most interesting releases from a business standpoint, and even a few personal highlights. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    The Rise of Independent Watchmaking – Tim Jackson (Independent in Time)

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 24, 2025 50:50


    These days, it seems like independent watchmakers and brands are everywhere – celebrated in watch media, on display at major retailers worldwide, hotly discussed in collector circles, and of course gaining share in an otherwise entrenched industry. But it's an overnight success decades in the making. And today we have the perfect guest to guide us through the rise of the independents: Tim Jackson. Tim is a passionate advocate for independent watchmaking, with a deep-rooted appreciation for mechanical timepieces that dates back to his childhood near Liverpool, England. His journey began with a Timex at age 10 and evolved into a lifelong fascination with horology that's spanned a career in the UK and now here in California. With over 30 years in the watch world, Tim has developed a particular admiration for independent artisans who push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. Today, he continues to champion these masters of micro-mechanical art, helping enthusiasts discover and acquire truly exceptional timepieces through his business Independent in Time. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    The Unspoken Realities of Swiss Production – Praneeth Rajsingh (CEO, MING Watches)

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 10, 2025 50:06


    We're joined by Praneeth Rajsingh, CEO of Horologer MING, to discuss the realities of watchmaking in Switzerland. While most watch brands are incredibly secretive about production, MING is remarkably transparent. So we invited Praneeth to discuss how exactly watch production in Switzerland works – warts and all. We discuss how the brand has evolved to be able to produce watches using movements and components from a wide range of partners to create their consistent, unique and thoroughly recognizable watches. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Inside the Shadowy Auction Industry – Marion Maneker (Puck News)

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 24, 2025 58:07


    Auction houses – they loom large in the world of watch collecting. Their lots, eye-popping results and personalities are followed feverishly by watch media and enthusiasts. But how much do we really know about these seemingly august, vaunted and shadowy institutions? How exactly do auction houses work? And what are the implications for the watch community? And today, we have the perfect guest to shine a light on the inner working of the auction houses: Marion Maneker, a longtime art world columnist and auction house insider. Marion Maneker, Special Correspondent for Art at Puck, the online news platform where insiders cover the worlds of Wall Street, Washington, Silicon Valley and Hollywood. Marion was formerly the president of ARTnews, a publisher at HarperCollins, and features editor at New York magazine. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Rolex Shutters Carl F. Bucherer Brand – A Sign of Industry Consolidation?

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 12, 2025 56:31


    On February 7, 2025, Swiss media outlet Bilanz reported that Rolex is shutting down the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand, which it acquired in 2023 as part of its purchase of Bucherer – the global watch retailer. The decision to shutter any watch brand, particularly one dating back to 1888 with significant in-house watchmaking is major news. And it's a story with broader implications for the watch industry at large. So with that in mind, on this special episode of Openwork we're delving into the details and taking a look at what it all means. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, emailpodcast@collectivehorology.com.  

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    The Business & Ethics of Homage Watches – Marc Frankel (Long Island Watch)

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 3, 2025 56:49


    Homages, replicas and clones, oh my! Today we're digging into the business and ethics of what's a perennial and now growing segment of the watch market. This is a complex topic, with important distinctions to be drawn between homages and replicas, clones or dupes. And more broadly, it's one that sheds important light on technology and production gains across the industry globally. Fortunately, we have the perfect guest to guide us through that landscape: Marc Frankel, who most of you probably know as Marc from Long Island Watch – both a retailer and manufacturer of a wide range of watches including homage watches. Marc is not only a living legend in this industry, but someone we genuinely admire and like. We are both proud and happy customers of Long Island Watch. And one of the great joys for us in participating in the Windup Watch Fairs over the years has been getting to know Marc. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Has Luxury Pricing Gone Too Far? – Katharine K. Zarrella (Fashion Writer, Editor & Critic)

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 20, 2025 71:22


    On this episode of the Openwork podcast, we look at luxury pricing. Of course, we've already done a deep dive on how watches are priced. (Check out our episode with Mike Margolis of Czapek and Singer Reimagined for that.) However, in the past, we've largely focused on how inputs like cost of labor, materials, inflation and currency exchange impact pricing. But there's of course more that goes into pricing for watches and luxury goods more broadly. There are considerations like brand value, product positioning as well as consumer psychology that also impact pricing. And that's what we explore today – those other more nebulous, but equally significant, inputs into pricing. To help us with that we have the perfect guest: Katharine K. Zarrella is a writer, editor, and the Fashion Critic-at-Large at Document Journal. With a background as Fashion Director at the Wall Street Journal's Off Duty section and as a lecturer at Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins, she has contributed to numerous renowned publications, including Harper's Bazaar, The Business of Fashion, and most recently The New York Times, where she recently published the guest essay: Obscene Prices, Declining Quality: Luxury Is in a Death Spiral. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    2025 Watch Industry Preview – A Comeback Year for Watches?

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 6, 2025 58:50


    It's that time of year: Predictions. On this episode we look at the year ahead, and make three calls each about the future of the watch industry. We discuss brand and retailer consolidation, market performance, business models for watch media, as well as enthusiast sentiment. We also take a look back at our 2024 predictions, and grade ourselves on their accuracy. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.  

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    Market Wrap: The Watch Industry in 2024 – Hamza Masood (WatchCharts)

    Play Episode Listen Later Dec 23, 2024 66:12


    On this episode we look back on the business of watches in 2024. In particular, we discuss where the watch market is as we close out the year. Is it growing, stalling, or as some would claim in retreat? To help us break it all down, we're joined by returning guest Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. It's a service we at Collective subscribe to for its valuable insight not just into the pre-owned watch market but what that data can tell us about the watch industry at large. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    How Watch Design Works – Marco Borraccino (Singer Reimagined)

    Play Episode Listen Later Dec 9, 2024 48:06


    Today we're going behind the scenes of watch design with Marco Borraccino the co-founder, CEO and Creative Director of Singer Reimagined. In addition to starting one of the most design-driven watch brands, Marco was previously the Head of Design at Panerai. He's got a deep educational and career background in design, both within the watch industry and beyond. And he's among the most talented and distinctive watch designers out there. Finally, in full transparency, Collective is a Singer Reimagined authorized retailer. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Behind the Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X (Special Episode) – Romain Marietta (Zenith)

    Play Episode Listen Later Nov 25, 2024 29:50


    Today we have a bonus episode of our podcast. It's a discussion with Romain Marietta, the Chief Product Officer at Zenith. We sat down recently in Geneva to discuss not only our latest collaboration – the Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X – but also how he and Zenith approach product development more broadly. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Inside M.A.D.Editions – Maximilian Büsser (MB&F)

    Play Episode Listen Later Nov 18, 2024 49:38


    On this episode of Openwork, we explore the business of both MB&F and Max's most recent horological project: M.A.D.Editions. While both represent wildly creative watches, they have fundamentally different business models, with MB&F producing under 200 pieces a year at prices mostly over $100K USD and M.A.D.Editions producing thousands of watches a year at under $5K USD. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.  

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    Inside the GPHG - How the "Oscars of watchmaking" really works

    Play Episode Listen Later Nov 11, 2024 41:30


    For years, we've followed the GPHG – the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève – with great excitement and interest as it's essentially the Oscars of Watches. And with this year's award ceremony taking place November 13, we figured it would be helpful to lift the veil on what goes on behind the scenes. Who are the people who nominate these watches, and what does voting look like? Does the GPHG meaningfully drive sales for brands, and what's involved in participating? We get into all of that and more, as we share our own experience as voting GPHG academy members. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    New York Watch Week? – Plus Building URWERK and Brew with Martin Frei and Jonathan Ferrer

    Play Episode Listen Later Oct 28, 2024 61:15


    On this episode, we share an industry perspective on what's quickly becoming something of a New York Watch Week – comprising the Windup Watch Fair, WatchTime and more. Additionally, we're going to share a special live podcast recording from the Windup Watch Fair – a joint episode between us and the Worn & Wound Podcast. It's a conversation with Martin Frei of URWERK and Jonathan Ferrer of Brew about how they built their brands. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Watch Production in China – Wesley Kwok (Nodus)

    Play Episode Listen Later Oct 14, 2024 50:10


    On this episode, we take a look at a topic that we've been curious about for a long time. We have discussed, both with members of the industry and amongst ourselves, the realities of production here in the United States, Japan, Switzerland and to a lesser degree Germany. But to date, we haven't discussed one of the largest centers of watch manufacturing in the world: China. From full watches to components of every imaginable variety, China is a formidable force in the world of watchmaking and watch collecting. To help us learn more about the Chinese production ecosystem and why it matters, we're proud to be joined by our friend Wes Kwok, co-founder of Nodus Watches. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.  

    Watches of Switzerland Acquires Hodinkee (Special Episode)

    Play Episode Listen Later Oct 4, 2024 42:42


    Today (October 4, 2024) marks a major shift in the watch industry. Hodinkee, the leading voice in modern watch media, has been fully acquired by Watches of Switzerland, a massive UK based retailer with operations around the world including in the US. Only a few months ago, Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee – and as of today, a President at Watches of Switzerland – announced that the publication was shuttering their retail business and going to back to focus on “the basics” (i.e., their editorial product). So what does this all mean for Hodinkee, its stakeholders, and of course the industry at large? Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.    

    How to Value Watch Movements – Inside the Movement Industry

    Play Episode Listen Later Sep 23, 2024 53:46


    We discuss the current landscape of movement suppliers and how it came to be. We cover how movements are selected by watchmakers, along with the drama that often surrounds the ever-popular “in house” vs “mass produced” discussion. We offer some thoughts on how, why or if movement design, finishing and construction should figure into a purchasing decision. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Listener Survey Results – What You Told Us about the Current State and Future of the Watch Industry

    Play Episode Listen Later Sep 9, 2024 59:59


    Earlier this summer, we asked you – our listeners – to participate in a short survey in order to hear your perspective on the current state and future of the watch industry. The responses poured in, and on today's episode, we delve into what you shared. A massive thanks to those who responded. Your responses were incredibly thoughtful, helpful, and surprising. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.  

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    Geneva Watch Days: Stakes Are High – How the Event and Watch Industry Are Evolving

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 30, 2024 50:59


    Live from Geneva Watch Days, we discuss how the show has evolved from a collector focus to a major industry event, along with the consequences of those changes. And we cover some of the week's high drama, including how and why we were kicked out of the Beau Rivage hotel. Things are getting real here in Geneva – stakes are high. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    No Bottom in Sight: State of the Pre-owned Watch Market – Hamza Masood (Watch Charts)

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 19, 2024 61:04


    We take a deep dive into the current state of the secondary (pre-owned) watch market with our friend Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. It's a service we at Collective subscribe to for its valuable insight not just into the pre-owned watch market but what that data can tell us about the watch industry at large. And that's exactly what we discuss with Hamza – what exactly is going on in the pre-owned watch market and more importantly what does it tell us about the industry at large, and of course, the implications for collectors. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Epic Battle: Mono vs. Multi-brand Retail – Current State and Future of Watch Retail

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 5, 2024 51:28


    We look at the shifting landscape of watch retail – specifically the rise of single-brand boutiques, the trade-offs of those changes, and what the future looks like. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Hodinkee Shutters Retail Business (Special Episode) – What It Means for Hodinkee and the Watch Industry

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 25, 2024 55:05


    On this special episode of Openwork, we discuss Hodinkee's recent announcement that they're shutting down their retail business – with the exception of limited editions – to refocus on editorial. This is big news that touched off an immediate and widespread response within the watch community. It also has significant implications for the watch industry at large, reshaping Hodinkee's role within it and more broadly putting magnifying glass on the turbulent landscape of both watch media and retail. Links: Announcement from Ben Clymer (founder of Hodinkee): https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-note-on-the-future-of-hodinkee Wall Street Journal "They Built a $100 Million Watch Empire. Then the Market Tanked." https://www.wsj.com/style/fashion/hodinkee-luxury-watches-ben-clymer-b4078322 Ben Clymer's réponse to Wall Street Journal: https://www.linkedin.com/posts/benjaminclymer_they-built-a-100-million-watch-empire-then-activity-7199372365619707904-H6CB/ Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Is the Watch Industry Dying? – Tony Traina (Hodinkee)

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 15, 2024 61:58


    Our conversation with Tony Traina of Hodinkee takes a look at the current health of and sentiment toward the watch industry. We look at how brands, retailers and watch media contribute to the current state of the industry, and what they can do to improve things. Links: Rescapement Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry – monthly export data Watches of Switzerland – quarterly earnings and annual report (FY ending April 2024) Morgan Stanley 2023 Swiss Watch Industry Report – Revolution Magazine analysis We'd also like to hear from you on those topics. In particular, we've created a short survey at collectivehorology.com/survey to get your thoughts on watch collecting – what you're into, what needs to change, and how you see the future. And to thank you for completing the survey, we're offering a very special gift. More details at collectivehorology.com/survey. Thank you for making the time. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Navigating the Swiss Watch Industry as an Outsider – Aren Bazerkanian (Founder, Havid Nagan)

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 1, 2024 51:23


    This episode is a very frank and unfiltered conversation with Aren Bazerkanian, founder of Havid Nagan – the upstart independent brand that took the watch world by storm in 2022 with its debut watch the HN00. We recorded this conversation in January of this year at a time when Aren was navigating challenges with Swiss watch production. In particular, one of his key suppliers experienced a leadership change and increased costs, rendering the economics of his second project the HN01 Lucine unsustainable. As a result, Aren did what many start up businesses have done time and time again – pivot. In particular, he refunded all customers who placed pre-order deposits, while he identified new suppliers and productions partners, and not to mention developed an all new watch. Aren documents this in greater detail and transparency at his site havidnagan.com. As Aren navigated this uncertainty, Asher and I debated whether to air this episode at all. However, now that Aren has set Havid Ngan on fresh footing, we all agree – including Aren – this conversation sheds greater lights on and insight into the realities his business had to navigate and the principles he used to do so. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    How We Make Collaborative Watches – Behind the New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops Edition

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 18, 2024 51:14


    Probably the question we're asked most is how we design and develop our collaborative watches – how we identify brands, how the creative process works, and how we make decisions along the way on everything from design to finishing. So on this episode, we're going behind the scenes on the making of our latest collaboration: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops.  Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    From Enthusiasts to Insiders – Lessons from Going Inside the Watch Industry

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 3, 2024 52:49 Transcription Available


    We share our biggest lessons from going inside the watch industry. We both made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders. We've had the opportunity to retail watches, design them, meet many industry luminaries, and even serve as GPHG academy members – and we've learned a ton along the way. We often get asked what that journey has been like, and what advice we'd give others who are looking to do the same or are just curious. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    When Founders Leave their Brands – Roman (Host of Independent Thinking)

    Play Episode Listen Later May 20, 2024 53:15


    We discuss what happens when a founder leaves their brand. From Daniel Roth to Speake-Marin, there are examples of this all over the industry, with some interesting – if varied – results. We're joined by one of our oldest friends and an authority on independent watchmaking Roman (@timesromanau), host of the Independent Thinking podcast on Fifth Wrist Radio. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Starting an Independent Watch Brand – Thomas Fleming (Founder of Fleming Watches)

    Play Episode Listen Later May 6, 2024 54:52 Transcription Available


    We're joined by Thomas Fleming (Fleming Watches) to talk about the realities of starting an independent watch brand. Everything from what it means to build the strategy, raise the funding and develop the branding for a company to how it feels to finally put something that you care about so much into the world. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

    Selling & Trading Your Watches – Trade-offs, Tips & Tricks

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 22, 2024 51:41 Transcription Available


    We're lifting the veil on selling and trading your watches. We cover the options available when you're ready to move on from a watch, the trade-offs of those options, as well as why there are different cost structures depending on how you sell or trade your watch. In particular, we share how we as dealers look at buying and trading for watches, which will hopefully demystify things and more importantly help the next time you approach a dealer about selling or trading your watch. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Watches & Wonders 2024: The Biggest Story No One is Talking About

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 10, 2024 39:34 Transcription Available


    We're live from the floor of Watches & Wonders 2024 to provide an insider take on this week's goings on in Geneva – the mood of the fair, industry scuttlebutt, and how we see it all impacting the watch industry and collectors. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    What Really Goes on at Watches & Wonders – Zach Kazan (Worn & Wound)

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 25, 2024 48:02 Transcription Available


    On this episode, we pull back the curtain on one of the biggest weeks in the world of watches: Watches & Wonders. Together with Zach Kazan (Managing Editor of Worn & Wound), we talk about what it's like to be retailers and journalists respectively at this industry event, what really goes on in all those meetings, and what we hope to see from the industry this year. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Building and Growing Czapek –Xavier de Roquemaurel (CEO of Czapek)

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 11, 2024 65:41 Transcription Available


    We discuss the tradeoffs involved in managing a fast-growing watch brand – in particular, how independent watch brand Czapek is navigating a period of intense growth and demand. Together with Xavier de Roquemaurel (CEO of Czapek & Cie.), we look at what's going on behind the scenes to expand their operations, manage customer relationships, and plan sustainably for the long term. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Are Watch Brands Overvalued?

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 26, 2024 48:25 Transcription Available


    On this episode, we look at something both intangible and very consequential, and that's the power of brands – what they are, why they matter, whether they should matter, and how they impact the watch industry and watch collectors. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    How Watches Are Priced – Michael Margolis

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 12, 2024 56:07 Transcription Available


    This week, we go inside watch pricing with Michael Margolis, owner of Horology Works – the US representative for Czapek, Singer Reimagined and Speake-Marin. Mike was also previously the North America President for Girard-Perregaux as well as North America Sales Director for Hublot. Together we look at the inputs that go into pricing watches, everything from labor and supply costs to marketing and currency exchange rates. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Stephen Pulvirent: Inside Watch Journalism

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 29, 2024 46:39 Transcription Available


    We go inside watch journalism with Stephen Pulvirent, West Coast Editor at Large for Revolution and founder of Rime & Reason, a marketing and creative agency serving the watch industry. Stephen is also former managing editor for Hodinkee. Together we discuss the realities of watch journalism. Specifically, how editorial teams and media outlets make decisions about what to cover and how to balance brand relationships, including access, advertising and retail. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    2024 Watch Industry Predictions

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 15, 2024 48:12


    On this episode, we take a look at 2024 predictions. Rather than focusing on trends like case size, colors or materials, we make predictions about the watch business itself – from retail to risk-taking to media. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. Thanks for listening to Openwork, a podcast from Collective Horology. You can find us at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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    Welcome to Openwork: A Look Inside the Watch Industry

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 13, 2024 1:54


    Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. Yes, another watch podcast. But the idea here is to do something different and distinct. Before we ever worked a day in the watch industry, we were both enthusiasts and collectors. So as we've moved through the industry over the last five years, it's been eye opening. We've gained a new perspective on watches from going inside the industry. And that's really the goal of this podcast: To give you an unfiltered view into the inner workings of the watch industry. Thanks for listening to Openwork, a podcast from Collective Horology. You can find us at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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