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Historically Thinking: Conversations about historical knowledge and how we achieve it
At his first inauguration, George Washington made a very carefully calibrated political statement: he wore a brown suit. It was tailored from a weave of superfine wool made in Hartford, Connecticut, and was so far from being the crude homespun which was for some an emblem of a proud American—or, for British cartoonists, of crude Brother Jonathan—that some newspapers criticized Washington for wearing a suit of imported fabric. The cloth seemed too good to have been made in America.Washington wore two suits that day. In the evening, at the inaugural ball, he wore a suit of imported purple silk. The choice of these two suits, argues my guest Chloe Chapin in her new book Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men, shows a dividing line between two eras: an eighteenth century of Washington's youth and early middle age in which men wore a wide variety of textiles in a cornucopia of colors and textures; and a democratic age in which drab and severe signaled liberty and equality among men. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies and has worked for more than two decades as a costume designer for Broadway productions, opera companies, and Shakespeare festivals. Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men is her first book.
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/new-books-network
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/gender-studies
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/performing-arts
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/sociology
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/american-studies
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/popular-culture
How did black suits become so ubiquitous? Why has men's business clothing been so plain for the last 250 years? How did a style adopted by the Founding Fathers to differentiate themselves from European contemporaries become the dominant style for men around the globe? Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men (Oxford University Press, 2026) traces the shift from the colorful, flamboyant attire of the eighteenth century to the plain dark suit of the nineteenth century, characterizing this style evolution as a "Sartorial Revolution." In this book, American historian and costume designer Chloe Chapin traces the evolution of masculine style from the American Revolution through the Civil War and shows how men's suits shaped relationships of gender and power. Drawing on a wealth of visual and written sources, she shows how the plainness of suits symbolized new ideals of rationality and democracy and played a crucial role in framing the lasting identity and authority of American men. This richly illustrated book analyzes fashion history's impact on gender dynamics and emphasizes the dynamic relationships between bodies, clothing, and personal identity. Suitable demonstrates the significance of fashion beyond mere appearance, illustrating the key role modern men's suits have played in shaping the modern world. Chloe Chapin holds a PhD in American Studies from Harvard University and master's degrees in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology and costume design from the Yale School of Drama. She has taught fashion history, costume design, gender studies, and anthropology. As a costume designer for over twenty years, her credits include Broadway musicals, opera, and Shakespeare. She works at Harvard University and lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Caleb Zakarin is CEO and Publisher of the New Books Network.
We talk with writer and artist Matt Stevens about his comic Panopticon.Matt Stevens is an illustrator, comic book artist, and high school art teacher. He is the author and artist for Panopticon and the artist on the series Digital Pools with collaborator Alex Robnett.For information, visit https://panopticoncomic.com/A new inmate joins the Panopticon — a timeless, single-chamber prison where prisoners don't know when, or even if, they are being watched. As he navigates the strict codes of his fellow convicts, he must unravel the mysteries of the facility, its unseen wardens, and the chilling possibility that to stay may be more deadly than escape.Ways To SupportBasil and Sage, visit them at https://basilandsage.com/. Use code WEBSTERSTYLE10GoTieLess: Use the code WEBSTERSTYLE to get 10% off your purchase. https://gotieless.com/?ref=websterstyleBeard Organics: www.beardorganics.com/WEBSTERSTYLEBecome a Producer on Patreon for just $1 per month. https://www.patreon.com/websterstylePete and Pedro: Use the link https://bit.ly/3rClqHK to get 10% off your first purchase.El Viajero Coffee use WEBSTERSTYLE for a 10% discount at checkout https://elviajerocoffee.com/Try Dubby energy drink. Get 10% off your first purchase with code WEBSTERMAN https://www.dubby.gg/discount/WEBSTERMAN?ref=4Ff8bGGh#comics #indiecomicbooks #indiecomics #geek #lifestyle #geek #panopticon #panopticon #artist #creator #comiccolecting #comicwriter #author #writer
On this paper to pixels edition of playback daily for Friday the 17th of April, we drive head first into the 1926 census - Sartorial advice for First Dates - and the War of Words between the White House and the Pope
Wars, conflicts, the rise of populism, and the meteoric advance of artificial intelligence – in a world full of uncertainty, how and why can we continue to create new fashion collections? Students from the French Fashion Institute (IFM), along with emerging designers Weinsanto, Pressiat, Maitrepierre, and Alain Paul, share their perspectives. As Xavier Romatet, IFM's Director General, says: fashion should show the world not as it is, but as we would like it to be.
Nach einer kurzen privaten Pause melden wir uns mit einem besonders unterhaltsamen Thema zurück. In dieser Episode unseres Mode-Podcasts Lost On Planet Fashion sprechen wir über unser ganz persönliches Fashion-Style-Alphabet, das A bis Z der Modestile. Von Athleisure über Grunge bis hin zu Sartorial nehmen wir dich mit durch die unterschiedlichsten Stilrichtungen der Modewelt und erklären, was hinter diesen Begriffen eigentlich steckt. Diesmal geht es bewusst weniger um einzelne Mode-Marken oder kurzfristige Trends. Stattdessen widmen wir uns den Fashion-Styles und Stilbegriffen, die immer wieder in Mode-Magazinen, auf Social Media oder auf den Runways der großen Fashion Weeks auftauchen. Was bedeutet Athleisure eigentlich genau? Wofür steht der Grunge-Style? Und was unterscheidet einen sartorialen Look von klassischem Minimalismus? In dieser Podcast-Folge bekommst du eine kompakte, aber unterhaltsame Einführung in die wichtigsten Modestile und Fashion-Ästhetiken. Natürlich bleibt es dabei nicht nur bei trockenen Definitionen. Wir sprechen über persönliche Eindrücke, kleine Anekdoten aus der Modewelt und darüber, warum bestimmte Stilrichtungen heute wieder so relevant sind. Freu dich also auf eine lockere Episode voller Fashion-Wissen, Stilbegriffe und Mode-Inspiration. Wenn du Mode liebst, dich für Fashion Styles, Stilrichtungen und aktuelle Modeästhetiken interessierst und Lust auf eine gute Portion Mode-Talk hast, dann ist diese Folge genau das Richtige für dich. Alle Looks auf Social Media @lostonplanetfashion : Instagram: www.instagram.com/lostonplanetfashion/ TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@lostonplanetfashion Website: www.lostonplabetfashion.de
In this episode, Fred Moore speaks with Laylah Holmes about applying fashion's discipline of cut, construction and material to handcrafted rug design. With early experience at Vivienne Westwood and Ralph Lauren, Laylah brings a textile sensibility to the floor. Every piece is dyed, woven, tufted and finished entirely by hand, working with long-standing artisan partners across Nepal and India. They discuss longevity, scale and the responsibility of making objects that are built to endure. At a time of accelerated consumption, this is a conversation about patience, precision and designing interiors with the care of couture.
Merriam-Webster's Word of the Day for February 6, 2026 is: sartorial sahr-TOR-ee-ul adjective Sartorial broadly means “of or relating to clothes,” but it often more specifically means “of or relating to a tailor or tailored clothes.” // This particular English teacher is known both for engaging students deeply in literature and for her eccentric sartorial tastes. See the entry > Examples: “As always, the Princess's sartorial elegance shone through this year, with her championing British designers, turning to old favourites and adorning treasures she's been gifted from the royal family over the years.” — Hello! Magazine (UK), 30 Dec. 2025 Did you know? Study the seams in the word sartorial and you'll find the common adjective suffix -ial and sartor, a Medieval Latin noun meaning “tailor.” (Sartor comes ultimately from Latin sarcire, “to mend.”) Sartorial has bedecked the English language since the early decades of the 19th century as a word describing things relating to clothes and to tailors, while sartor, though never fully adopted into the language, has also seen occasional use as a synonym for tailor. A third word shares the same root: sartorius (plural sartorii) refers to the longest muscle in the human body. Crossing the front of the thigh obliquely, it assists in rotating the leg to the cross-legged position in which the knees are spread wide apart—and in which tailors have traditionally sat.
The Codification of Gender Apartheid, the Afghan and Iranian Resistance Movements and Global Gender-Based Violence Online and OfflineDiscussion with Heather Barr on gender apartheid in Afghanistan and Iran and efforts to codify it as a crime against humanity in international law. We explore why codification matters, how to support these efforts, and why challenging gender apartheid is critical. We discuss the concerning normalization of the Taliban regime and the Afghan and Iranian resistance movements. We also discuss gender-based violence, including acid attacks, rape during war, and digital abuse. Finally, we discuss the global rollback of women's rights, from attacks on reproductive healthcare to leadership disparities and discrimination against female leaders.For More Info: https://thegravity.fm/#/episode/69
In Season 4 (Episode 38) of The Elliott Exchange... EMAIL: Christmas & Scrooges Secular government Health scans $1500 headphones?! Sartorial stockholm syndrome Got a question or story?EMAIL - elliottexchange@nine.com.au Follow Elise:INSTRAGRAM - instagram.com/eliseelliott_media/See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
In Season 4 (Episode 38) of The Elliott Exchange... EMAIL: Christmas & Scrooges Secular government Health scans $1500 headphones?! Sartorial stockholm syndrome Got a question or story?EMAIL - elliottexchange@nine.com.au Follow Elise:INSTRAGRAM - instagram.com/eliseelliott_media/See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Adam and Rick discuss the best soccer kits and expanded metrics, along with the highlights of the latest International matches. [Ep260]
In Season 4 (Episode 32) of The Elliott Exchange... EMAIL: School holidays Should calculators be in exams? What do you give foreign dignitaries? AND Tom & Elise's sartorial gap Got a question or story?EMAIL - elliottexchange@nine.com.au Follow Elise:INSTRAGRAM - instagram.com/eliseelliott_media/See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
In Season 4 (Episode 32) of The Elliott Exchange... EMAIL: School holidays Should calculators be in exams? What do you give foreign dignitaries? AND Tom & Elise's sartorial gap Got a question or story?EMAIL - elliottexchange@nine.com.au Follow Elise:INSTRAGRAM - instagram.com/eliseelliott_media/See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
In this episode, Virtuoso's Hotelier of the Year for 2025, Claudio Meli, General Manager of The Place Firenze, shares why true luxury begins at arrival, how "sartorial hospitality" creates unforgettable experiences, and what hospitality leaders everywhere can learn from rethinking the guest journey from the ground up. A few more resources: If you're new to Hospitality Daily, start here. You can send me a message here with questions, comments, or guest suggestions If you want to get my summary and actionable insights from each episode delivered to your inbox each day, subscribe here for free. Follow Hospitality Daily and join the conversation on YouTube, LinkedIn, and Instagram. If you want to advertise on Hospitality Daily, here are the ways we can work together. If you found this episode interesting or helpful, send it to someone on your team so you can turn the ideas into action and benefit your business and the people you serve! Music for this show is produced by Clay Bassford of Bespoke Sound: Music Identity Design for Hospitality Brands
A history of the dandy from below, from Beau Brummell and Baudelaire to Bowie and Bolan... and beyond. The historical figure of the dandy has commonly been described as an upper-class gentleman, often exemplified by well-known men such as Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Max Beerbohm. But there is a broader history to be told about the dandy - one that incorporates unknown men from the lower strata of society. The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford UP, 2025) constitutes the first ever history of those dandies who emanated from the less privileged layers of the populace - the lowly clerks, shop assistants, domestic servants, and labourers who increasingly during the modern age have emerged as style-conscious men about town. Peter Andersson shows that dandyism is far from just an elite phenomenon represented by famous poets and artists. He shows how dandyism as a popular youth subculture grew into an influential cultural movement, from the days of Beau Brummell in the early 19th century to the age of mods in the 1960s. A series of fascinating in-depth studies of the wide variety of dandy subcultures that have surfaced around the world in the last two centuries tell the story of how the shaping of fashions and the image of men became increasingly democratized, with the arbiters of taste increasingly coming from the other end of the social spectrum. Along the way, we encounter such long-forgotten groups as the mashers, the knuts, the Paris gandins and the Berlin transgender dandies, alongside more well-known but unexplored figures like the zoot suiter, the teddy boy, and the New Romantic. Above all, this is a story of how fundamental aspects of modern culture such as fashion, style, and conduct have been shaped from below just as much as from above. It is a story that shows how the problematic business of young men trying to find an identity is an enduring phenomenon - and one sadly often accompanied by innocent victims along the way. Peter K. Andersson is a historian and writer, with a PhD in History from Lund University in Sweden. He has been a visiting scholar at the universities of London, Oxford, and Bologna, and has written extensively on Victorian cultural history, urban history, and popular culture. Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/new-books-network
A history of the dandy from below, from Beau Brummell and Baudelaire to Bowie and Bolan... and beyond. The historical figure of the dandy has commonly been described as an upper-class gentleman, often exemplified by well-known men such as Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Max Beerbohm. But there is a broader history to be told about the dandy - one that incorporates unknown men from the lower strata of society. The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford UP, 2025) constitutes the first ever history of those dandies who emanated from the less privileged layers of the populace - the lowly clerks, shop assistants, domestic servants, and labourers who increasingly during the modern age have emerged as style-conscious men about town. Peter Andersson shows that dandyism is far from just an elite phenomenon represented by famous poets and artists. He shows how dandyism as a popular youth subculture grew into an influential cultural movement, from the days of Beau Brummell in the early 19th century to the age of mods in the 1960s. A series of fascinating in-depth studies of the wide variety of dandy subcultures that have surfaced around the world in the last two centuries tell the story of how the shaping of fashions and the image of men became increasingly democratized, with the arbiters of taste increasingly coming from the other end of the social spectrum. Along the way, we encounter such long-forgotten groups as the mashers, the knuts, the Paris gandins and the Berlin transgender dandies, alongside more well-known but unexplored figures like the zoot suiter, the teddy boy, and the New Romantic. Above all, this is a story of how fundamental aspects of modern culture such as fashion, style, and conduct have been shaped from below just as much as from above. It is a story that shows how the problematic business of young men trying to find an identity is an enduring phenomenon - and one sadly often accompanied by innocent victims along the way. Peter K. Andersson is a historian and writer, with a PhD in History from Lund University in Sweden. He has been a visiting scholar at the universities of London, Oxford, and Bologna, and has written extensively on Victorian cultural history, urban history, and popular culture. Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/history
A history of the dandy from below, from Beau Brummell and Baudelaire to Bowie and Bolan... and beyond. The historical figure of the dandy has commonly been described as an upper-class gentleman, often exemplified by well-known men such as Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Max Beerbohm. But there is a broader history to be told about the dandy - one that incorporates unknown men from the lower strata of society. The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford UP, 2025) constitutes the first ever history of those dandies who emanated from the less privileged layers of the populace - the lowly clerks, shop assistants, domestic servants, and labourers who increasingly during the modern age have emerged as style-conscious men about town. Peter Andersson shows that dandyism is far from just an elite phenomenon represented by famous poets and artists. He shows how dandyism as a popular youth subculture grew into an influential cultural movement, from the days of Beau Brummell in the early 19th century to the age of mods in the 1960s. A series of fascinating in-depth studies of the wide variety of dandy subcultures that have surfaced around the world in the last two centuries tell the story of how the shaping of fashions and the image of men became increasingly democratized, with the arbiters of taste increasingly coming from the other end of the social spectrum. Along the way, we encounter such long-forgotten groups as the mashers, the knuts, the Paris gandins and the Berlin transgender dandies, alongside more well-known but unexplored figures like the zoot suiter, the teddy boy, and the New Romantic. Above all, this is a story of how fundamental aspects of modern culture such as fashion, style, and conduct have been shaped from below just as much as from above. It is a story that shows how the problematic business of young men trying to find an identity is an enduring phenomenon - and one sadly often accompanied by innocent victims along the way. Peter K. Andersson is a historian and writer, with a PhD in History from Lund University in Sweden. He has been a visiting scholar at the universities of London, Oxford, and Bologna, and has written extensively on Victorian cultural history, urban history, and popular culture. Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/french-studies
A history of the dandy from below, from Beau Brummell and Baudelaire to Bowie and Bolan... and beyond. The historical figure of the dandy has commonly been described as an upper-class gentleman, often exemplified by well-known men such as Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Max Beerbohm. But there is a broader history to be told about the dandy - one that incorporates unknown men from the lower strata of society. The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford UP, 2025) constitutes the first ever history of those dandies who emanated from the less privileged layers of the populace - the lowly clerks, shop assistants, domestic servants, and labourers who increasingly during the modern age have emerged as style-conscious men about town. Peter Andersson shows that dandyism is far from just an elite phenomenon represented by famous poets and artists. He shows how dandyism as a popular youth subculture grew into an influential cultural movement, from the days of Beau Brummell in the early 19th century to the age of mods in the 1960s. A series of fascinating in-depth studies of the wide variety of dandy subcultures that have surfaced around the world in the last two centuries tell the story of how the shaping of fashions and the image of men became increasingly democratized, with the arbiters of taste increasingly coming from the other end of the social spectrum. Along the way, we encounter such long-forgotten groups as the mashers, the knuts, the Paris gandins and the Berlin transgender dandies, alongside more well-known but unexplored figures like the zoot suiter, the teddy boy, and the New Romantic. Above all, this is a story of how fundamental aspects of modern culture such as fashion, style, and conduct have been shaped from below just as much as from above. It is a story that shows how the problematic business of young men trying to find an identity is an enduring phenomenon - and one sadly often accompanied by innocent victims along the way. Peter K. Andersson is a historian and writer, with a PhD in History from Lund University in Sweden. He has been a visiting scholar at the universities of London, Oxford, and Bologna, and has written extensively on Victorian cultural history, urban history, and popular culture. Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/popular-culture
A history of the dandy from below, from Beau Brummell and Baudelaire to Bowie and Bolan... and beyond. The historical figure of the dandy has commonly been described as an upper-class gentleman, often exemplified by well-known men such as Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Max Beerbohm. But there is a broader history to be told about the dandy - one that incorporates unknown men from the lower strata of society. The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford UP, 2025) constitutes the first ever history of those dandies who emanated from the less privileged layers of the populace - the lowly clerks, shop assistants, domestic servants, and labourers who increasingly during the modern age have emerged as style-conscious men about town. Peter Andersson shows that dandyism is far from just an elite phenomenon represented by famous poets and artists. He shows how dandyism as a popular youth subculture grew into an influential cultural movement, from the days of Beau Brummell in the early 19th century to the age of mods in the 1960s. A series of fascinating in-depth studies of the wide variety of dandy subcultures that have surfaced around the world in the last two centuries tell the story of how the shaping of fashions and the image of men became increasingly democratized, with the arbiters of taste increasingly coming from the other end of the social spectrum. Along the way, we encounter such long-forgotten groups as the mashers, the knuts, the Paris gandins and the Berlin transgender dandies, alongside more well-known but unexplored figures like the zoot suiter, the teddy boy, and the New Romantic. Above all, this is a story of how fundamental aspects of modern culture such as fashion, style, and conduct have been shaped from below just as much as from above. It is a story that shows how the problematic business of young men trying to find an identity is an enduring phenomenon - and one sadly often accompanied by innocent victims along the way. Peter K. Andersson is a historian and writer, with a PhD in History from Lund University in Sweden. He has been a visiting scholar at the universities of London, Oxford, and Bologna, and has written extensively on Victorian cultural history, urban history, and popular culture. Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/british-studies
A history of the dandy from below, from Beau Brummell and Baudelaire to Bowie and Bolan... and beyond. The historical figure of the dandy has commonly been described as an upper-class gentleman, often exemplified by well-known men such as Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Max Beerbohm. But there is a broader history to be told about the dandy - one that incorporates unknown men from the lower strata of society. The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford UP, 2025) constitutes the first ever history of those dandies who emanated from the less privileged layers of the populace - the lowly clerks, shop assistants, domestic servants, and labourers who increasingly during the modern age have emerged as style-conscious men about town. Peter Andersson shows that dandyism is far from just an elite phenomenon represented by famous poets and artists. He shows how dandyism as a popular youth subculture grew into an influential cultural movement, from the days of Beau Brummell in the early 19th century to the age of mods in the 1960s. A series of fascinating in-depth studies of the wide variety of dandy subcultures that have surfaced around the world in the last two centuries tell the story of how the shaping of fashions and the image of men became increasingly democratized, with the arbiters of taste increasingly coming from the other end of the social spectrum. Along the way, we encounter such long-forgotten groups as the mashers, the knuts, the Paris gandins and the Berlin transgender dandies, alongside more well-known but unexplored figures like the zoot suiter, the teddy boy, and the New Romantic. Above all, this is a story of how fundamental aspects of modern culture such as fashion, style, and conduct have been shaped from below just as much as from above. It is a story that shows how the problematic business of young men trying to find an identity is an enduring phenomenon - and one sadly often accompanied by innocent victims along the way. Peter K. Andersson is a historian and writer, with a PhD in History from Lund University in Sweden. He has been a visiting scholar at the universities of London, Oxford, and Bologna, and has written extensively on Victorian cultural history, urban history, and popular culture. Caleb Zakarin is editor of the New Books Network. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Support our show by becoming a premium member! https://newbooksnetwork.supportingcast.fm/book-of-the-day
Conor McCreery is the swashbuckling wordsmith/former and oft-deadly-threatened journalist who has written Assassin's Creed, Sherlock Holmes vs Harry Houdini (both with Anthony Del Col), Adventure Time, Regular Show, and more! His newest projects include the YA adventure series The Last Witch, the horror-comedy Trickster, and FELA: Music Is the Weapon (debuting through HarperCollins in 2023). He lives in Toronto with his wife and three children. For information, visit https://www.killshakespeare.com/Ways To SupportBasil and Sage, visit them at https://basilandsage.com/. Use code WEBSTERSTYLE10GoTieLess: Use the code WEBSTERSTYLE to get 10% off your purchase. https://gotieless.com/?ref=websterstyleBeard Organics: www.beardorganics.com/WEBSTERSTYLEBecome a Producer on Patreon for just $1 per month. https://www.patreon.com/websterstylePete and Pedro: Use the link https://bit.ly/3rClqHK to get 10% off your first purchase.El Viajero Coffee use WEBSTERSTYLE for a 10% discount at checkout https://elviajerocoffee.com/Try Dubby energy drink. Get 10% off your first purchase with code WEBSTERMAN https://www.dubby.gg/discount/WEBSTERMAN?ref=4Ff8bGGh#killshakespeare #thelastwitch #comics #indiecomicbooks #indiecomics #geek #lifestyle #geek #comicartist #artist #creator #boomcomics #comiccolecting #comicwriter #author #writer
The vibrant and energetic crowd which attended the No Kings march in Troy, NY included a large crowd of folks of different demographics, bright signs with a variety of messages, and an assortment of attires with stories behind them. In this segment we hear from veterans, war reenactors, and a friar, reported on by Sina Basila Hickey.
Meet the duo behind the narrative-driven candle and fragrance brand, Nomad Noé! As life and business partners, Corentin Hamon and Arash Yomtobian open up about how their cross-continental paths (and a Tinder Super Like ;)) brought them together, how they craft smells inspired by people and places across time, finding their niche within 'niche', and how they preserve scent memories and traditions of "home" both on the move and in diaspora.FRAGS MENTIONED:Nomad Noé Moonwake Tuberose, Robert Piguet Fracas, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Michael Kors EDP, Nomad Noé: Untamed Neroli, Elysian Rose, Penhaligon's Sartorial, Nomad Noé Prophetic Saffron, Penhaligon's Halfeti, Nomad Noé DREAMER in London, L'Artisan Seville A L'Aube, Nomad Noé: VISIONARY in Esfahan, POET in Hangzhou, L'eau KenzoFOLLOW: @nomadnoe SUBSCRIBE: perfumeroom.substack.comNEW LUCKYSCENT DISCOUNT CODE: perfumeroom10
Chris is fresh from a dinner party, Sunil tries to engage with geo-politics and Producer James gears up for a VIP event. The lads also read a letter from the wife of a gamer turned first-time gardener. Want to see the lads live? Rural Concerns is coming to Manchester's Fairfield Social Club on 22nd November. Tickets are already selling fast so grab your tickets here! Got a Rural Concern? Drop us an email at christopher@alovelytime.co.uk. The best way to support this educational podcast is through Patreon. For less than a fiver you can get bonus episodes and access to our Discord community, The Creamery. Our artwork is by Poppy Hillstead, our music is by Sam O'Leary and our legal due diligence is by Cal Derrick, Entertainment Lawyer. Rural Concerns is edited by Joseph Burrows and produced by Egg Mountain for A Lovely Time Productions.
In 2025, gloves are emerging as a prominent and versatile medium for artistic expression. More and more artists are using them as repurposed items, or to explore their symbolism and narrative potential. Join me as I briefly journey through the history of gloves and their uses, to the modern-day culture of the iconic embroidered glove.Show Notes: https://stitchsafari.com/the-sartorial-embroidered-glove/
Hello you! Here's a short one, because we had microphone trouble, so we tried to savage as much as we could. Normal service will resume on ep219. Still, it's worth a listen, if you're content with our content! Today, we waffle about...• Lorra's chills because of Simon's mould battle.• More international listener feedback.• Hot Cross Bun heartbreak.• Surprise Fruit.• Aliens' nuts.• Simon's improved diet.• Lorra's sartorial faux pas.• Underground kickers-out hypothetical.• Selling toenails, spit and soiled garments.• Lorra's sock idea.• Dream Mother's Days.Recommedations:• Last One Laughing (Trailer)If you'd like to get in touch, you can email us here: husbandandwifepod@gmail.comOr get us on our socials here:Simon on Insta: https://www.instagram.com/catboyradioLorra on Insta: https://www.instagram.com/lorranotlauraUs on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@smedleysstuff Facebook: https://facebook.com/hawstlSee you next time xSupport this show http://supporter.acast.com/husband-wife-sentenced-to-life. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Sartorial by Penhaligons (2010) + Mike Leigh's Life is Sweet (1990) and Naked (1993) with Patrick C S7E11 2/27/25 To hear the complete continuing story of The Perfume Nationalist please subscribe on Patreon.
Kevin is legally blind but, despite having letters from his consultant, was initially denied his blind person tax credit. Adopted people describe their experience of there being no record of their existence when they go to get a Public Services Card. Antoinette thinks Irish men are not stylish.
Lucy continues to be silenced as we bring in Domonique Foxworth to discuss more headlines from around the NFL. We dive into the Pittsburgh Steelers-Washington Commanders game that caused a rift between Jess and Domonique's producer, Charlie. Domonique still doesn't believe in the Steelers as they barrel towards an epic matchup with the Baltimore Ravens next week. Plus, Patrick Mahomes looks slow as the Chiefs keep getting away with it, Domonique's Maryland Terrapins put a scare into the Oregon Ducks, and now, at this point, it seems like we're just purposefully avoiding the Miami Hurricanes result. Finally, we get to the Canes losing to Georgia Tech and dive deep into how this impacts Miami's season going forward. Is Cam Ward's Heisman campaign over? Did this loss actually hurt Miami that much? That defense is really bad, huh? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
This episode is something of an homage to autumn style: we gather in Zürich for a discussion on the seasonal wardrobe with designer Noële Nana Schaffner from sumptuous Swiss brand Nomadissem. We reflect on the creative resilience of a nation at war as we report on Ukrainian Fashion Week, hear the esoteric sounds of Portuguese musician Ana Lua Caiano and muse on the power of small talk in an audio essay about embracing the poetry of everyday conversation.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Nigel Rothband catches up on a heap of headlines this week with with David Blakeney, Sarah Messenger and Roger Reade. citypodcast.net @citypodcast Produced by Paul Myers and Mike Leigh A Playback Media Production playbackmedia.co.uk Copyright 2024 Playback Media Ltd - playbackmedia.co.uk/copyright Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Please give a big welcome to one of my favorite kidlit people and dear friend, Paul Vinelli! Some Highlights: Bereavement books and crossing genres. Collaborating with an artist to bring your book to life. Physically staging the scenes of your book. Taking a book to an art show. Finding creative purpose. Creating the story through staging and writing the text after the images. What animal would you choose to be you in an anthropomorphic world? Taking theater production as inspiration for telling stories. The trust process between an illustrator and picture book author. The benefits of mentorship and the relationships How much Paul and I love our writing community and some of those people who've had the biggest influence on us♥️♥️♥️: Susan Wroble (Co-RA of Rocky Mountain SCBWI) Stan Yan (Co-RA of Rocky Mountain SCBWI Laura Perdew (Connect Leader for Boulder, CO) Julie Rowan-Zoch (Connect Leader for Northern CO) Beth Anderson (her blog is SO HELPFUL) Kaz Windness (author-illustrator and AMAZING educator) Laurent Linn (art director and author) Lynn Becker (author) Debbie Ridpath Ohi (the kidlit bluesky fairy godparent also author-illustrator) Christiana Doucette (author) Claire Noland (author) Pattie Toht (author) Karen Grencik (literary agent) Harold Underdown (author, illustrator, publisher, educator) Eileen Robinson (editor, educator) Pamela Courtney (author, educator) Valerie Bolling (author) Links Mentioned
Nicole shares her thoughts on the now energized presidential campaign, Kamala's political style and the significance of red and blue. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/youhavetowearsomething/support
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You could have heard this episode early on our HeroHero! Subscribe now for a limited-time discount to celebrate the end of the season!This week, Sol and Michael are joined by Sol's old boss, Enrique Crame III! Enrique's been a mainstay of the NYC fashion community, styling stars on Broadway, in the movies, and in shows like Peaky Blinders, the Bear, Suits, Mad Men, and so many more iconic pieces of media. Listen in as we talk about his start with Fine and Dandy and making through the 2008 recession, friends in vintage, his preference for trading, an upcoming trip to Japan, and be sure to tune into YouTube to see Enrique show off some of the rarest pieces in his collection!Lots of love, and I hope you enjoy!SolSol Thompson and Michael Smith explore the world and subcultures of fashion, interviewing creators, personalities, and industry insiders to highlight the new vanguard of the fashion world. Subscribe for weekly uploads of the podcast, and don't forgot to follow us on our social channels for additional content, and join our discord to access what we've dubbed “the happiest place in fashion”.Message us with Business Inquiries at pairofkingspod@gmail.comSubscribe to get early access to podcasts and videos, and participate in exclusive giveaways for $4 a month Links: Instagram TikTok Twitter/X Sol's Instagram Michael's Instagram Michael's TikTok
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In the 2nd conversation with author, recovering art worker and academic Valerie Werder, she talks about: the travails of clothes shopping for her job in the blue-chip gallery, not only how fraught it was but how much it brought up class issues as she moved through the sartorial gauntlet, where her appearance as a frosty, inaccessible object was part of her role; the complicated variations of class when it comes to precarity and poverty, including a culture where those who are cultivating an aesthetic of bohemianism or even poverty are existing alongside those who are actually financially poor, the latter of whom sometimes don't even have culture on their radar; her fictional and, perhaps, real relationship with the enigmatic character ‘Ted' from her book Thieves, which is complex in its values, dependency, and deceptions, and which coincided with her own attraction to anarchism and anti-capitalism, and how ‘Ted' in some ways embodied these tendencies; the complex social roles and hierarchies that Valerie is living within, and the experience of downward mobility while simultaneously being connected with an upper echelon of culture; how transitioning to the hierarchies and bureaucracies of Harvard was fairly smooth and easy after being in the blue-chip NY gallery world; and how while she still sporadically writes about art, she's for all intents and purposes stepped out of the art world proper. NOTE: in the Bonus episode w/Valerie, she talks all about the very real shoplifting she participated in and is a main feature in Thieves.
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This week on the podcast, Chioma and Chloe talk about how Travis Kelce became a KidSuper-Collina Strada-wearing style icon. Then, the Vogue Runway team gives a crash course on the most important trends that everyone will be wearing next spring (the ‘90s are back!). Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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