A celebration of the landscapes, culture, heritage and people of Cumbria and the Lake District.
...in which we take a stroll – just Mark and Dave – from Seatoller to Sty Head Tarn to announce the end of Countrystride (for now) and reflect on 149 episodes and 6.5 years of the podcast. Under perfect Spring skies, we catch the bus from Keswick to Seatoller, where we cast our minds back to our tech- and expertise-lacking trial run above Seathwaite and share favourite memories of the hours spent in the fells since, with the Pennine Way, Goldscope Mine and Upper Eskdale all featuring among Mark and Dave's 'best in show' lists. Arriving at Styhead Tarn, we settle alongside its sparkling waters to reflect on our lifelong love of the Lakes, before asking a series of fellow walkers about their relationship with the fells. Turning the Countrystride Quickfire Questions on ourselves, we learn that Mark's favourite fell is Blencathra and his Lakeland hero is Hardwicke Rawnsley, while Dave gets passionate about AW and advocates the joy of a pint at YHA Ambleside. After 150 episodes, we are taking a break from Countrystride. We may be back; we may not. Do keep in touch by signing up to our newsletter here (just scroll down the page a little). If you have ideas about how we might make the pod more sustainable (financially or otherwise), drop us a line using our Contact Us form (bottom of the page). All Patreon subscriptions (for which, many thanks), have been paused and will only resume if we resume recordings. For now it's over and out. It's been a pleasure, and we'll see you on the fells. Mark and Dave
...in which we gather at YHA Borrowdale for a wide-ranging chat about hostelling in the Lake District: the people. the places and the passion. In the company of Aaron Jones, manager at YHA Borrowdale; Christine Thomas, co-owner of Elterwater Hostel; and Elterwater team member Charlie Spiller, we begin by asking what fanned their hostelling flames (family holidays, illicit treks and Amsterdam's red light district respectively). Looking back over the early, then glory, days of the YHA – when the charity operated 300 hostels; when you were expected to arrive "under your own steam";, and when guests mucked-in with chores – we proceed to today, where a professionalised 'home from home' hospitality approach is championed by both the YHA and a thriving independent sector. Immersing ourselves in hostel life, we profile a typical working day at both Borrowdale (buzzy games room, thriving bar) and Elterwater (table service, sticky toffee pudding) before quizzing our guests on their favourite hostels. Delving deeper into the business of running a hostel – a sector in recovery after the strains of Covid – we learn about the highs and lows of hostel operation; about the satisfaction that comes from facilitating new friendships, and about why, in an increasingly divided world, interactions in hostels are as important as ever. For more about Elterwater Hostel (always book direct!), see https://www.elterwaterhostel.co.uk/ and reviews on Google. For more about YHA Borrowdale see the YHA website (always book direct!) For more about other indie hostels, see https://independenthostels.co.uk/
...in which we head south to Pendle Hill to explore the extraordinary lives of two campaigning outdoorsmen, who helped establish National Parks, Youth Hostels, the Ramblers and The Pennine Way – 60 years young this year. In the company of Nick Burton and Bob Sproule from the Pendle Radicals project, we set out from the Lancashire village of Roughlee, where the scene is set for the arrival of the 'two Toms' – a time where workers in the industrial north had to fight to access the hills around them. Striding onto Noggarth Edge, where views open over the former mill towns of Colne, Nelson and Burnley, we learn about the early life of Tom Stephenson, father of the Pennine Way, who was working in a calico works aged 13, and whose life changed forever on Pendle Hill. Jailed as a conscientious objector during World War I, we follow Tom into his campaigning years, when the concept of his 'Long Green Trail' took root. Descending to Pendle Water, we introduce the Reverend Thomas Arthur Leonard OBE, one-time minister of Barrow-in-Furness and Colne, whose commitment to social reform – and suspicion of the boozy Wakes weeks – gifted us the Co-operative Holidays Association, and its successor the Holiday Fellowship (he is commemorated in a plaque on Cat Bells). Arriving at the last-of-its-kind Clarion House, where working class cyclists and walkers still meet for shelter, education and fellowship, we enjoy the cheapest cup of tea in Lancashire, before reflecting on the golden age of access pioneers, and their remarkable legacy. Clarion House can be found here. For more about the Pendle Radicals, see here. More information about the Two Toms Trail can be found here.
...in which we venture west to the Eskdale village of Boot to visit the last remaining water cornmill in the Lake District. Guided by Mill manager Kate Hughes, we explore the old gardens – a scene of watery activity, with Willan Beck tumbling over boulders and leats threading through channels to feed three wheels. Here we learn about the long history of milling in Lakeland, where over 2,000 mills harnessed power in their pre-industrial heydey. Moving indoors, we observe the drying room, where peat briquettes, extracted from Burnmoor, were burned to dry barley – a staple part of the Cumbrian diet for generations. Moving into the machine room – noisy with belts, drives, cogs and wheels – we consider the hard-graft life of the miller; of the Corn Laws that made of him a pariah in the hamlet; of the seasonal nature of milling; and of the mill's women folk, employed in communal baking and washing. Outside again, walking through sun-dappled daffodils, we marvel at old mill wheels (each ground for a century or more) and the different stones used on different grains. Finally, Kate chats about her abiding love of Eskdale; of the views from Harter Fell; of the upper Esk pools; and of the vibrant shades of autumn. For more about Eskdale Mill, including open times, see eskdalemill.co.uk/visit The Mill is on Facebook (facebook.com/p/Eskdale-Mill-100064829043197/), Bluesky (bsky.app/profile/eskdalemill.bsky.social) and Instagram (instagram.com/eskdalemillboot/).
...in which we visit the far northeast of Cumbria to explore the remarkable history and remains of the Nenthead lead mines. In the company of geologist and Nenthead Mines trustee Pete Jackson, we learn about the earliest mineral prospecting in the area, where 'the old men' sought out lead in becks, waterfalls and, latterly, artificial hushes. Arriving at a centuries-old stone leat – still flowing – we consider the unusual addition of flag coverings, and nature's steady reclamation of spoil heaps. Entering the hill at Carr's Level, we consider the boom years of the London Quaker Lead Company, and the values that gave rise to social housing and an early form of sickness pay. Moving deeper into the mines – and through the evolution of extractive technologies, from hand-picking to dynamite – we proceed to the great depression that made Nenthead a truly European operation, where British, Italian, French and German miners mixed, mined and lived together. We end our journey atop the mind-blowing 300-foot Brewery Shaft, where Pete describes the five-mile subterranean canal – once a tourist attraction – that links Nenthead to Alston. For more about Nethead Mine, and to find out about publ;ic open days, see nentheadmines.com/
...in which we delve into a remarkable oral history archive to paint a long-view picture of the ever-changing farmed landscape of the Westmorland Dales. In the company of local-born John Hastwell and project officer Amanda Walters, we listen to farmers past and present as they discuss the hard-graft reality of farming the Westmorland Dales, the northern Howgills and the Orton Fells. Looking back to the inter-War years – long before the arrival of phones and electricity in remote valleys – we hear crystal-clear memories (in beautiful accents) of life before mechanisation, when fell ponies and draft horses pulled sleds and trailers; and when 400+ farms in the area kept dairy herds. Proceeding to the arrival of the first Little Grey Fergie, we reflect on the joys and frustrations of hay-making, and the long hours worked by farm children. Turning to the social context of farm lives and loves, we hear about the importance of church; of the mart; and of the dances and seaside trips that bound scattered communities. Reflecting on the priceless value of wildflower meadows and the demise of dairy in Ravenstonedale, we close by asking 'What's next?' for the farms of the Dales, and discover that one model may be a 'back to basics' approach inspired by our farming forebears. The Westmorland Dales' 'Our Common Heritage' oral history project was inspired by Friends of the Lake District, which owns Little Asby Common in the heart of the Westmorland Dales. It was one of many projects delivered through the Westmorland Dales Landscape Partnership, led by Friends of the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. Full interviews can be accessed at Cumbria Archives in Kendal and the Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes.
...in which we are joined by Gavin Capstick, new chief executive of the Lake District National Park Authority, for a wide-ranging chat about the state of the Park and his ambitions for its future. Ascending out of Tebay onto the Howgills, we learn about Gavin's Eden Valley upbringing and his first interactions with the Lake District – playing youth football – before a local government career led him to the Park Authority. Arriving at a stock exclosure fence with emerging woodland, we talk about the balance the Park must try and strike between farming and nature; between locals and tourists; between conservation and development. Dropping to the Lune – and a fabulous riverside path below the M6 – Gavin defines 'low impact tourism', notes the 40% real-time reduction in government funding over the past decade; outlines the pressure placed on new honeypots by social media influencers, and describes the highs (ice cream) and lows (rain) of being a Wainwright-bagging family. Turning to knottier issues, we discuss 4x4s on green lanes; a new partnership between Save Windermere and Love Windermere; how private car use in the Park might be reduced, the strange silence of Covid lockdowns... and why Rory Delap is Gavin's Cumbrian hero. The Lake District is on Twitter/X at x.com/lakedistrictnpa
...in which we visit Keswick Museum for a deep dive into the life of one of Romantic Lakeland's most under-appreciated figures: writer, former Poet Laureate and long-term resident of Greta Hall, Robert Southey (1774-1843). In the company of Museum curator Nicola Lawson and trustee Charlotte May, we return to Bristol, 1774 and set the shifting social scene for the birth of a young radical – expelled from Westminster – whose education was beset by bullying. Alongside new wife Edith Fricker and creative soulmate Samuel Taylor Coleridge, we follow Southey north to Keswick and learn about daily life at Greta Hall, where the young poet became sole breadwinner in a busy household of sisters and their home-educated children. With tragedy a constant in the Southeys' life – four of the couples' eight children died before reaching adulthood – we discuss Edith's enduring mental illness, the fast-growing Keswick of the early 1800s, and the great joy Southey derived from family and domestic life. Reflecting on a (sometimes) controversial and (always) prodigious writing talent (Southey's output far eclipsed that of Wordsworth or Coleridge), we namecheck some of his finest works: from the first published version of Goldilocks and the three bears (The Story of the Three Bears) through his remarkable História do Brasil to the onomatopoeic masterpiece The Cataract of Lodore. Brazing the frosty cold, we conclude our conversation alongside Southey's grave at Crosthwaite Church, where we consider his relationship with Keswick and the great loss felt at the death of a towering talent and an adored family man. You can find out more about Southey and Keswick at Keswick Museum: keswickmuseum.org.uk The Museum is on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter/X.
...in which we unwrap a selection box of our favourite clips from the year past in the company of Cumbria Wildlife Trust's Jamie Normington and Low Sizergh Barn co-owner Alison Park. Featuring clips from, among others, James Robinson, Eileen Jones, Mark Hatton, Phoebe Smith, April Windle, Mark Cropper, Angus Winchester and Peter Todhunter, we sift through 19 episodes and 20 hours of recordings from as far flung as Newlands, Windermere, Seathwaite, Orton and Great Moss. In our annual extended fire-side chat – in which we pick our Cumbrian Book of the Year and Walk of the year – we cover buses, bars and burial cairns; we discuss rainforests, regeneration and gathering the Rough Fell; we visit Barrow, Borrowdale and the Back o' Skiddaw; we reflect on the increasingly precarious business of hill farming; we consider Cumbria Wildlife Trust's acquisition of 3,000 acres of Skiddaw Forest, and we close by remembering King of the Fells, Joss Naylor. Alison can be found at Low Sizergh Barn.
...in which we congregate at the Armitt, Ambleside for a night of readings, historic press reports, dialect poems and music that celebrate a distinctly Cumbrian Christmas. In the company of Alan Cleaver, Lesley Park, Sue Allan and – on harp and guitar – the Cumbrian Duo, we take a nostalgic trip down memory lane (and beyond) as we learn about seasonal customs from the historic counties of Westmorland and Cumberland: of the 'Waits' who performed dance tunes in isolated valleys; of the 'Merryneets', where dalesfolk would gather for nights of feasting and frivolity; and of the carol-singers of Wasdale, fighting a losing battle against the winter snows. Turning to dialect, Sue regales us with a miscellany of snow terms from the old tongue and champions works of the tragically underrated Cumbrian Bard, Robert Anderson of Carlisle, while Lesley reads one of the all-time classic Lakeland Christmas poems: 'Down t'Lonning'. As we move around the county – from the Ambleside postman's path via Buttermere (and its many pies) to a west coast nativity scene – we're accompanied by winter-time tunes from Ed Haslam and Jean Altshuler, including 'Cold and Raw' and the infamous 'Bleckell Murry Neet'. Alan's book, A Lake District Christmas, is available from Inspired by Lakeland. Sue's book on The Cumberland Bard is available from Books Cumbria. The latest CD from the Cumbrian Duo is sold through Willowhayne Music at naxosdirect.co.uk/search/bleckell Some of their music can be heard at youtube.com/watch?v=xB9CcJLIxKA and youtube.com/watch?v=jbNzqBBTCHk This podcast was recorded at one of our Countrystride Live events. To be first in line for tickets, sign up to our newsletter at countrystride.co.uk/
...in which Dave takes a midwinter stroll with author Polly Atkin to discuss The Company of Owls, Polly's new book about her tawny owl neighbours in Grasmere. Climbing from Town End onto White Moss Common, we consider the recent history of the surrounding landscape – from grazed pasture through makeshift 'hutment' settlement to the rich woodland of today that is home to deer, badger, fox and numerous birds. Arriving at a mossy oak, we learn about Polly's passion for owls, and the personal connection she formed with three new-born owlets. The little-known habits of owls are discussed – the long walks they take to explore territory; the on-and-off cohabitation arrangements of mate-for-life parents; and the pragmatic preservation of energy in death. Arriving at a nature-reclaimed pool, our conversation skips from owls to the Romantic poets, night-time walking, mythology and bluebells. Finally, arriving at Grasmere's Wishing Gate, we turn to Polly's award-winning Some of Us Just Fall, and talk about why the nature-healing narrative is a fallacy; and why the owls in this enchanted patch of woodland embody hope, sadness, anxiety, joy – but, most of all, continuity. The Company of Owls is available to buy (signed) from samreadbooks.co.uk/product/polly-atkin-the-company-of-owls-signed-/13814 and (not signed) eandtbooks.com/books/the-company-of-owls/ Polly is on Twitter/X at x.com/pollyrowena Polly's Linktree: https://t.co/ehfHhLe116
...in which we make a breezy autumnal ascent of Gowbarrow Fell to learn about the unending work of Fix the Fells. In the company of FtF partnership manager Isabel Berry and deputy ranger Jonny Skinn, we take a long view of Lake District trails – back to the days of pack-horse routes and quarry ways – then fast-forward to the 1960s and '70s, when the golden age of rambling etched great scars into the landscape. Advancing three decades, we arrive at the origins of Fix the Fells (it could have been 'Mend the Mountains') and the establishment of a unique partnership that now cares for 200 routes across the National Park, with a full-time team of 17 rangers and 150+ volunteers. Proceeding up the fell – with some of the finest views in the Lakes – we learn about the science of erosion, and the multiple benefits of path restoration: for water quality, floral diversity, climate, insects and birds. Arriving at one of Jonny's work sites, we consider the engineering behind path restoration and the psychological nudges that keep walkers trail-tight. A sober reflection on the loopholes that mean Fix the Fells are ignored by statuary funding pre-empts a double set of quickfire questions where we chat great pubs, favourite books, autumn vs spring... and Beacon Fell. More about Fix the Fells here: https://www.fixthefells.co.uk
...in which we take an autumnual stroll around Grasmere to explore the history of fell-running with runner, archivist and west coast lad Peter Todhunter. Setting out from the village green – one-time site of Westmorland wrestling matches – we visit the field below Allan Bank, where the first known Guides Race took place in 1868. As a traditional Cumbrian 'sports day' grew to encompass hound trailing, boating, 'high leaping' and horse-racing – alongside the emerging discipline of fell-running – we consider the locational moves necessitated by an ever-growing number of competitors (often farm workers, gamekeepers and miners) and visitors. Moving into the modern era, we profile the first fell-running superstars, including Ernest Dalziel – the legend of Burnsall – and Keswick's own Bob Graham, who completed his iconic 42-peak Round in tennis shoes. We consider the growing list of endurance events that developed on the fells, from the 24-hour Challenge to the Mountain Trial, and the emergence of the amateur fell-running scene that dominates the sport today. Arriving at the Showfield – site of Grasmere Sports – Peter reflects on the achievements and legacy of his much-missed friend, Joss Naylor; tells us why Robinson is the greatest fell of all; reveals why a set of the Wainwright Guides are his desert island reads; and answers the perennial Bob conundrum... why Great Calva?. 'Running Int' Fells' is an exhibition that shares the history, spirit and enjoyment of running on the fells, from the beginnings at Grasmere Sports to ultra and trail running events today. The exhibition is on at The Armitt until 21 December, 2024.
...in which we delve into a remarkable oral history archive to paint a picture of the historic Cumbrian commons as they enter a period of profound change. In the company of local-born John Hastwell and project officer Amanda Walters, we listen to farmers past and present as they discuss the hard-graft reality of grazing the fells of the Westmorland Dales: the northern Howgills and Tebay; the Pennine fringes; Orton Fells and Wild Boar Fell. Relishing a bounty of Westmerian accents, we consider how the commons have been used for centuries – not only for grazing, but also for supplying fuel, wool and building materials. We evoke the satisfaction of gathers past, where thousands of sheep were rounded from the common, and note the efforts required to establish and maintain a heft. The traumas of hard winters and Foot and Mouth are recalled, as are the perils of 'totter bogs', chats with M6 truck drivers... and the wrong DofE footwear. We close by reflecting on the many changes unfolding on these eastern heights – more trees; fewer sheep; less food; and a compromised farming system – before hearing from those who have left farming behind for good. The Westmorland Dales' 'Our Common Heritage' oral history project was inspired by Friends of the Lake District,which owns Little Asby Common in the heart of the Westmorland Dales. It was one of many projects delivered through the Westmorland Dales Landscape Partnership, led by Friends of the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. Full interviews can be accessed at Cumbria Archives in Kendal and the Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes.
...in which we take an autumn stroll into Grizedale Forest with local-born author Rebecca Smith to explore the hidden history of working class people in the countryside. Exploring the expansive pine plantations north of Satterthwaite, we learn about Rebecca's idyllic childhood roaming the Graythwaite Estate, where her father was head forester. Seeking out elusive Bogle Crag, we consider the class ambiguity of living in the shadow of 'the big house', and the mixed blessings of tied housing for foresters and farmers. Taking a long view of the rural working class, Rebecca talks about her grandfather and great-grandfather, and the reality of navvy lives – including at Thirlmere – that were tough, transient and are largely forgotten today. On a mission to find 'Black Apple Tree', we reflect on the social impacts of mass tourism and the risk of dysfunction in rural economies that lose the workers they rely upon. Finally, we ask: why have the Coniston raves been airbrushed from history? Rebecca's book, Rural: The Lives of the Working Class Countryside, is available at all good bookshops (we recommend local!).
...in which Dave interviews adventurer, author and multi-award-winning photographer, presenter and broadcaster Phoebe Smith about journeys of self-discovery on the country's old ways. Recorded live at Countrystride's end of summer gathering at Kelsick Grammar, we learn about the ancient practice – still banned in this country – of pilgrimage, and hear about the great emptiness Phoebe felt on a secular walk along the Camino de Santiago. In a wide-ranging conversation centred around Phoebe's book Wayfarer: Love, loss and life on Britain's ancient paths, we consider what role walking plays in healing trauma; why slow ways have increasing appeal in a busy world; and the deep-level connections that get forged when we follow in the footsteps of our ancestors. Never straying far from the Lake District, Phoebe reveals her favourite fells and wild camp locations; talks about drying knickers on a Kendal stove; and recalls the Christmas she spent in a gale atop Scafell Pike. Arriving at our quickfire questions. we consider why National Parks are visited by so few young people; we learn why Phoebe's Lakeland hero is Mabel Barker... and we try (and fail) to get Phoebe to stop talking about Grasmere gingerbread. Wayfarer: Love, loss and life on Britain's ancient paths is available from all good bookshops. For all things Phoebe, see phoebe-smith.com
...in which we ascend Moasdale from Cockley Beck in the company of author Guy Richardson to take a long view of the Scafell massif and its oft-overlooked history. Under pristine skies we ascend the 'moss valley' on a long-abandoned turf-cutters' way to reach Moasdale Col and the Duddon/Esk watershed, where we are wowed by the Alpine panorama of England's highest peaks – a view that is surely one of Lakeland's finest and one which, remarkably, has rarely been captured by poet or painter. In a wide-ranging discussion about the Scafells' neglected history, we identify the fells' first appearence on maps, and the changing names – the Pikes of Scawfell, Scawfell Pike, Scafell Pike, Sca Fell – that offer glimpses into the influence of guidebook writers and the early methods of OS surveyors. Recalling Samuel Taylor Coleridge's infamous descent of Broad Stand (and the subsequent first climb of the accident blackspot by his farming hosts), we consider the great conservation battle to keep conifers from Great Moss; we learn about the madcap attempts to build a road over Sty Head; we reflect on the 'Great Gifts' that secured the heights of Eskdale and Borrowdale for the nation; and we attempt to settle one of the Lakes' enduring debates: is it Scafell or Scawfell?. For more information about Guy's book The Scafells : A Grand Tour and a peek inside see: www.scafells.uk The book is also available from all good bookshops (Cumbrian ones are best!).
...in which we tour the west coast town of Whitehaven in the company of Blue Badge guide and historic buildings expert Alexandra Fairclough. From the heart of the bustling harbour, we paint a picture of the settlement's early history – of a remote fishing village set around a tidal river – before coal transformed its fortunes forever. As the Lowther family entered the story, the town's wealth and population multiplied; coal and ship-building transforming the sheltered 'haven' into England's second largest port, trade tethered to the notorious 'Triangular Trade'. Leaving the harbour, we visit Whitehaven's informal 'old town', then proceed to the remarkable 'grid-iron' planned streets that introduced Grand Tour designs to Georgian Cumberland, and which inspired similar layouts in New York City. Admiring designed 'vistas', a bounty of listed buildings – more per quare mile than in any other UK town – and rare one-time warehouses, we discuss the end of many eras, and reflect on the 'gem' town of today. Alex can be found at https://linktr.ee/Alexatourguide
...in which we tell the 1,000-year story of cartography in the historic counties of Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire with author, academic and cartophile Bill Shannon. When does the name 'Cumbria' first appear on a map? Who were the men – entrepreneurs, oddballs, fraudsters and visionaries – who developed the skills of surveying and map-making over generations, often for scant financial rewards? How did the remarkable Christopher Saxton undertake the first county surveys – to make the definitive maps of England that were still being used two centuries later? When were the first scientific surveys carried out, and what role did the Ordnance Survey play in popularing maps for the 'everyman'? In this amiable chat covering ten centuries of map-making, we talk triangulation and tourism; contours and cartouches; and nymphs, monks and memories of map-reading on a misty Blencathra. Bill is on Twitter/X at https://x.com/BillShannon19 You can find out more about / buy Bill's book at https://www.inspiredbylakeland.co.uk/products/cumbria-1-000-years-of-maps To view some of Bill's favourite maps, head over to our sister site, Hefted: https://hefted.substack.com/p/six-iconic-maps-of-cumbria
...in which we stride out from Seatoller in the company of conservationist and lichonologist April Windle to explore the Celtic woodlands of Borrowdale and celebrate the designation of a new 721-hectare (1,782-acre) National Nature Reserve in the valley. Immersing ourselves in the damp and shady confines of an oakwood, and tantalised by a tapestry of ferns, mosses, liverworts and lichens, we consider the climatic conditions – wet and mild – that sustain these rare pockets of western wild-wood. Pushing deeper up-dale we discover two more woodland habitats: a remarkable hillside of ash pollards and a precipitous hanging hazelwood. Pausing to admire 'Tumbling Kittens' and 'Blackberries in Custard', we reflect on the complex management needs of these threatened rainforests and learn why bracken is no barrier to natural regeneration, why brambles cannot be left unchecked, and why livestock exclosure does not make for healthy woods. Backtracking to the valley bottom, we learn about the National Trust's largest ever 'translocation' drive and lament the loss of one of Lakeland's most loved trees; we mull the benefits of slow walking – and a £2.50 hand lens; and we celebrate Cumbria's reputation as a hotbed of conservationism. April can be found on X at x.com/aprilwindle?lang=en and on Instagram at instagram.com/aprilwindle.nature/ To learn more about the lichens of Borrowdale, see the Lichen Society's interactive map at https://britishlichensociety.org.uk/maps/all-species
...in which we journey deep into Newlands to tell the remarkable story of Elizabethen copper mining, and the part it played in making Keswick the birthplace of modernity. Leaving Little Town in the company of the inimitable Mark Hatton, we ascend the flanks of Hindscarth, and rewind time to the 1560s, to when England's war footing meant a domestic supply of copper was a matter of national security. Entering the hand-picked addit that drives through Scope End, we learn about the pioneering German miners who – in the year of Shakespeare's birth – brought their skills to a backwater Lake District valley; and we seek out one of the most audacious engineering feats of its age: a stream, diverted between valleys through the mountain to power an underground waterwheel. Suitably wowed, we trace the copper ore's ancient route – above the marshy bottoms of Newlands into Keswick – to reflect on the social impacts of an immigrant population, and the ensuing violence... and baby boom. Arriving by the all-but-ignored former smelter site at Brigham (below the A66 flyover), we discover old tunnels and leats that channeled water to the most important industrial site of its age. As we digest a lost Lake District story, we consider the fate of the Germans who stayed, and the legacy of an industry that shaped national economics, politics, law... and plenty of future Keswickians. Mark is on X at https://x.com/thehatton
…in which we climb one of the Lake District's most popular heights, Loughrigg Fell, to celebrate the launch of a new book, Loughrigg: Tales of a small mountain. In the company of author Eileen Jones and botanist Pete Martin, we consider why this rambling maze of a fell – the classic 'first and last hill' – holds such a special place in so many people's hearts. Arriving at sequestered Lily Tarn, we survey the rich diversity of hillside flora, from bog asphodel and meadowsweet to grass-of-parnassus and bogbean. Weaving along the ever-popular spine path – past 'Kite Gnoll', 'The Sometimes Pond' and 'The Knobbly-Bobblies' – we reflect on how memories are grafted onto hills, and how landscapes become personal: From the summit, with its repaired – if diminished – trig point (just the right height to perch a G&T) we discuss the changing relationship with ‘local' that emerged during Covid, before backtracking past the former Ambleside Golf Course, where Eileen recalls ‘vapours' on Striding Edge, picks Les Mis as a walking soundtrack… and details an unlikely case of happily-ever-after wife swapping at Pine Rigg. Loughrigg: Tales of a small mountain, by Eileen Jones, is available from Gritstone Publishing: https://gritstonecoop.co.uk/product/loughrigg-by-eileen-jones/ Work to nurture the trees on Loughrigg is being undertaken by Ambleside Action for a Future, one of our favourite Lakes charities: . https://aafaf.uk/index.html
…in which we head to the far northeast of Cumbria to explore the once thriving North Pennines coal industry in the company of ex-pitman Clive Seal. Rewinding to the 1240s, we unearth the first records of coal production in the area – supplying the monks of Lanercost - and discuss the border raids that threatened the cottage-style industry all the way into the 1600s. In the Midgeholme Bottoms – now the domain of curlew and oyster catcher – we evoke the expanded 17th century workings of horse gins, 'cinders', waterwheels, smitihies and winding shafts. Taking a retrospective view of Clive's career, and the ‘like it or loathe it' reality of life on the coal face, we learn how pitmen bore straight tunnels and mined ‘black gold' using lime and later gunpowder. Proceeding into the 19th century, we arrive at the jewel in the crown of the Brampton coalfield, the King Pit, where hundreds worked, swelling the villages of Midgeholme, Hallbankgate and Halton Lea Gate. Below abandoned workings, we come upon Lord Carlisle's private railway – one of the first in the country – along which Stephenson's Rocket reached a rumoured 60mph, and coal was transported via Port Carlisle to Glasgow and Nova Scotia. Finally, we learn about the slow-motion tragedy of moss encroachment that took three men's lives, and heralded the end of an era.
...in which we stride out from Waterhead in the company of ecologist and Save Windermere campaigner Matt Staniek. In the vibrant watermeadows that flank the River Rothay we dig into local lad Matt's early life – where hedgehogs were nursed in the family home and Matt took nature walks with his grandmother. Fast-forwarding to the car crash that broke his neck, we learn about Matt's recuperative trips to Borrans Park, where the north shores of Windermere became a place of healing. Delving into the science of sewage, we consider the contributions that farming and private treatment plants make to nutrient levels in Windermere, dwarfed by the release – legal and illegal – of sewage by United Utilities. Subjecting Matt to our quickfire questions, we hear about his love of Side Pike and Windermere's Homeground; of the wonders of unpolluted becks; and of the Viking burial he imagines as a send-off, alongside the bronze toilet epitaph he wants erected outside UU's Windermere office. Detailing how sewage could be banished from Windermere for good, we ask Matt what he does on days off... and when his remarkable campaign will come to an end. Matt can be found on X at x.com/MattStaniek and on Instagram at Instagram.com/mattstaniek/?hl=en Save Windermere can be found at savewindermere.com The March to Save Windermere is held on 29 June. Mark and Dave will be there ! For those interested in learning more about Section 101A of the Water Act – that states "sewerage undertakers have a duty to provide new public sewers where specific criteria are met" – it can be found here: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1991/56/section/101A#:~:text=(1)Without%20prejudice%20to%20section,(2)%20below%20are%20satisfied.
...in which, standing in for Mark and Dave, BBC Cumbria's Nick Brownlee takes a seat at the bar to discuss the highs, lows and daily realities of operating a community pub. In a hospitality sector beset by staff shortages, rising costs and closures, Cumbria is home to a handful of thriving pubs that have been acquired by their communities. Nick speaks with Phil Sweetland from the Mardale Inn, Bampton, and Grizedale Arts CEO Adam Sutherland from the Farmer's Arms, Lowick, about each pub's journey – from abandonment by big breweries, through community fundraising to reopening. They discuss the importance of pubs to rural communities; the value of activities that interact with the pub; the merits of organic growth as a community business finds its feet; and the "hard graft" management models that ensure sustainable growth. Finally, Adam and Phil namecheck their favourite Cumbrian hostelries – with shout outs to the Kirkstile Inn, The Queen's Head, The Blacksmith's Arms, The Butchers Arms and the ODG – and consider the question: what makes the perfect pub? The Mardale Inn is at themardaleinn.com/?lightbox=dataItem-lgjoq8ui The Farmer's Arms is at lakedistrictfarmersarms.com
...in which, guest presenting for Mark and Dave, Radio 4's Caz Graham dons her boots for a day on the farm with organic dairy farmer, Chair of the Nature Friendly Farming Network and one of Cumbria's farming heroes, James Robinson. In a wide-ranging conversation with fifth-generation farmer 'James from Strickley' – in the shadow of The Helm – Caz and James delve deep into the world of regenerative farming, talk new life in a rewiggled Saint Sunday's Beck and discuss the beauty, utlity and nature benefits – 98 bird species! – of James' beloved laid hedges, as articulated by visting poet and beatboxer Testament. Looking back at old farm diaries, Caz is wowed by historic entries that juxtapose the whitewashing of cattle shippons with a collapsing world order. Surveying a farmed landscape with views to Morecambe Bay, James reflects on the John Marsden adage that you should 'Live as though you'll die tomorrow, but farm as though you'll live forever', and – following an invite to discuss farming at Number 10 – calls for ministers to engage in joined-up thinking that aligns farming and food production with health, access to the countryside, education and social care. James can be found at: x.com/JRfromStrickley Strickley's website is at visitmyfarm.com ‘The Lig' by Testament comes courtesy of We Feed The UK – a national arts project pairing award-winning photographers and poets with the UK's most inspiring regenerative farmers and food producers. See wefeedtheuk.org for more information Caz can be found at x.com/CazGraham1
...in which, standing in for Mark and Dave, broadcaster Nick Brownlee ventures out with Jon Bennett – a man who has climbed Helvellyn 778 times. Ascending Mires Beck, we hear from Jon about the important role of the National Park fell top assessor – a job Jon never thought he would get – and about why, even after 16 years climbing Helvellyn, he's still not bored of it. We learn about magic times on the fell – a Brockenspectre tracking Jon over Striding Edge – and about the role walking played after the sudden death of a close friend. As we continue our ascent, we discuss tree planting schemes and pitching to protect this most loved of mountains, and picnicking beside Red Tarn, we reflect upon the unique weather conditions that impact on Helvellyn. Finally, descending into Greenburn, we marvel at industry old and new, from the towering slag heaps of Greenside Mine to the new-generation hydro scheme supplying power to the National Grid. Lake Distirct Weatherline can be found at https://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/home With thanks to Nick for picking up the baton while we're away.
...in which we explore the industrial and social history of Barrow-in-Furness in the company of former mayor John Murphy and artist Maddi Nicholson. Overlooking Walney Channel and distant Black Combe, we delve into the Furness peninsula's deep past, when monks arrived in the secluded 'valley of the deadly nightshade'. We proceed to the discovery of iron ore, and Barrow's subsequent overnight transformation, from backwater farming hamlet into 'the Chicago of England'. In a whistle-stop tour of the town, we discuss the leaning tower of its remarkable town hall, the daily toil of workers in 'the Shed', the 'boilermaker's whisper' and the 'hellfires' that blazed above molten slag. Entering the war years, we consider Barrow's role in re-arming the nation, the realities of the Barrow Blitz and the construction of Barnes Wallis' ill-fated dirigible ‘Mayfly' – that did not fly. Finally, on a tour of the fabulous space at Art Gene, we learn about the social history of the town – through shops, hairdressing, meat pies and a moose.– before celebrating the forgotten women of Barrow and Walney, including Peggy Braithwaite, Britain's only woman lighthouse keeper and a mean shot with a rifle. For more information about the Re:discover Barrow Exhibition see art-gene.co.uk/place-rediscover-barrow-exhibition/ You can find out more about Maddi at art-gene.co.uk/artists-and-residences/maddi-nicholson/ and Art Gene generally at art-gene.co.uk
...in which we set out from springtime Orton to explore the limestone scars of the Westmorland Dales in the company of husband-and-wife geologist / botanist team Syvia and Peter Woodhead. Alongside bubbling Chapel Beck, we encounter early flowers and a lively March hare as we learn about the geological origins of limestone - in distant coral seas some 350 million years ago. Arriving on Orton Scar, with its big-sky panoramas, we reflect on the industrial processing of lime – for agriculture and construction – and observe the 'lasagne' layering of different eras of deposition. Passing limestone pavement on the shoulder of Knott – grikes forming micro-climates for an abundance of rare plants – we encounter myriad fossils, of corals, gastropods and sponges, that record cycles of life and mass extinction. Chased by a storm that never arrives, we finish our walking circuit at Gamelands Stone Circle, where we reflect on the power and legacy of ice. For more about the Westmorland Dales Landscape Partnership project, see friendsofthelakedistrict.org.uk/westmorland-dales-hidden-landscapes-partnership The GeoTrail walks can be found at riendsofthelakedistrict.org.uk/westmorland-dales-geotrails-2022 For Cumbria GeoCoonservation see cbdc.org.uk/cumbria_geoconservation/
...in which we take a Dales Way wander downstream from Cowan Head to Burneside to explore the long history of paper-making on the River Kent. In the company of paper manufacturer and fell-runner Mark Cropper, Chair of the six-generation family business James Cropper plc, we rewind the centuries to when 50 or more mills spanned the Kent, processing everything from wool to snuff. Entering the packhorse age, we learn about the growth of the provincial book trade and the growing demand for a new kind of 'clean' paper. Leaving the valley floor, we visit the cow byre-housed Paper Foundation to immerse ourselves in the centuries-old craft of paper making. Arriving at the heart of the family business in Burneside, we explore the cutting-edge mills that today make the paper not only for Armistice Day poppies and packaging for many of the world's leading luxury brands, but also next-generation 'papers' destined for aircraft, supercars and wind turbines. Finally, looking across the pastures above Kendal, we reflect on Mark's ambition to rethink the landscapes of east Lakeland, and the emerging Penrith–Kendal wildlife corridor that will feature a heritage 'patchwork' of wood pasture, wildflower meadows and orchards, alongside traditional farming and food crops. The Paper Foundation can be found at paper.foundation/category/shop/ James Cropper is at www.jamescropper.com
...in which we are joined by Kendal-based author and Windermere Lake Cruises skipper Robert Beale to dive into the deep history of boating on England largest lake. Rambling along the fine new path from Lakeside to Finsthwaite, we look back to Roman times and beyond to hypothesise about the first lake users. Moving into the medieval era, we consider the importance of Windermere to the monks of Furness Abbey, and the subsequent use of cargo boats to transport everything from slate and charcoal to limestone and gunpowder. Arriving in the tourist age, we reflect on the remarkable monopoly of the Furness Railway Company, with trains and boats ferrying huge numbers of people on lengthy Lakeland adventures. As we backtrack to historic fords and the River Leven 'dog hole', we learn about the role Windermere played during the two World Wars, before turning to matters more frivolous: the Tizzie-Whizie, the Crier of Claife and the possible genesis of Beatrix Potter's creative world. Robert's book Lakeland Waterways is now out of print, but you may find it at second hand shops. You can find Windermere Lake Cruises at windermere-lakecruises.co.uk For more about the route we followed, see lakedistrict.gov.uk/aboutus/media-centre/latest-news/news-releases/new-route-makes-it-easier-to-enjoy-the-scenic-west-shore-of-windermere
...in which we celebrate the 400th anniversary of the birth of George Fox – founder of Quakerism – on a journey through '1652 country' with historian, Quaker and Professor Emeritus at Lancaster University, Angus Winchester. Starting our walk at the Society of Friends meeting house in the picture-perfect hamlet of Brigflatts just outside Sedbergh, we learn about the turbulent times into which Fox was born. Introducing the charismatic, troubled and talented Fox, we follow his famous footsteps of 1652, through Lancashire and Yorkshire to Sedbergh and then into Westmorland, where he preached to 1,000 people atop Firbank Fell in a meeting that would become pivotal in the spread of early Quakerism. With grand views of the Howgills, we continue the story into 1653 as Fox moved north and west to Ulverston and then into Cumberland ("now't good comes round Black Combe"). Closing our conversation, we consider the importance of the '1652' north country, the period of persecution following the fertile early years, and the Quaker legacy – of Friends meeting houses and businesses – in Cumbria today. For more about Briggflatts, see https://brigflatts.org Angus' excellent book The Language of the Landscape can be bought from Handstand.
...in which we're defeated by weather, so shelter indoors to hear from one of the UK's great adventurers: Cockermouth-based James Forrest, who has bagged all 1,001 mountains in the UK and Ireland, and broke records walking both the 446 Nuttalls and 214 Wainwrights. An escape from the nine-to-five was, James tells us, the drive for his first challenge – to conquer every mountain in England and Wales in the shortest documented time. But his heart was always in Lakeland, which led to his 2020 self-supported round of the Wainwrights. In a reflective interview, we hear about the highs and lows of an epic walk; we ask whether 'adventure' can be a ruse to escape everyday life; we consider our changing relationship with the fells as we spend more time in them; and we learn why James is "never, ever, ever" returning to the Brecon Beacons. James' book Mountain Man is published by Bloomsbury. Available from all local bookshops. James can be found at amesmforrest.co.uk
...in which we rewind the centuries to the Neolithic Age on a journey in search of Lakeland's earliest settlers and their highly-valued stone axes. In the company of archaeologist Steve Dickinson, we set out from Brotherilkeld – the great medieval farmstead with Norse roots. Leaving the valley walls behind, we enter wild country, once a place of forest groves and wood pasture stalked by deer and lynx, wolves and bears. As we trace the river upstream, we imagine the 6000-year-old endeavours of our earliest ancestors, as they left their coastal settlements in search of a rare band of volcanic cutting stone. Arriving atop Scar Lathing – a maiden ascent for Mark and Dave – we seek out two extraordinary archaeological finds that paint a picture of a lost civilisation: of Cumbria's first extractive industry; of ritual burials; and of a deep communion with high places that was etched into immaculately crafted artefacts. Steve is on Twitter at @SteveDickinson2
...in which we uwrap a selection box of our favourite clips from the year past in the company of Lakeland Walking Tales blogger and Lakeland Walker contributor, George Kitching. Featuring clips from, among others, Bill Birkett, Will Rawling, Charlotte Fairbairn, Rob and Harriet Fraser, Debbie North, Mark Hatton, Fell Foodie, Chris Butterfield and Melvyn Bragg, we sift through 19 episodes and 20 hours of recordings from as far flung as Ennerdale, Wigton, Coniston, Grasmere, Keswick and the big-sky North York Moors. In our annual extended fire-side chat, we ponder pubs, peat bogs, Potter and 'potatovators'; we visit Crosthwaite, Coniston Old Man and the Coast to Coast; we discuss Wainwright – a lot – and consider how the romance of his prose still draws folk to the fells; and finally, we close by asking 'What is the enduring magic of Lakeland?' You can find George's brilliant Lakeland Walking Tails blog – walks, stories and musings from the Lake District Fells – at lakelandwalkingtales.co.uk
...in which we are joined by Farmer's Wife author Helen Rebanks and food historian Ivan Day for a feast of Cumbrian Christmas fare. In Ivan's historic Westmorland farm kitchen we learn about the dishes that marked a traditional Christmas – 'hackin', powdered goose and sweet pie – before Helen and Ivan serve up three very different gingerbreads. Discussing her debut book, Helen speaks about food on the family farm, about memories of marmalade and about why food matters. Ivan, meanwhile, tackles a few local food queries: was ginger really a Whitehaven import?; was the Cumberland sausage introduced by German miners?; and which of Cartmel or Sharrow Bay can claim to be the true home of sticky toffee pudding? Finally, as we tuck into an early seasonal dinner, we learn about a Lowther christmas pie with ingredients that included 15 sparrows, 46 yellow hammers, 12 patridges... and a curlew. Helen's book The Farmer's Wife is available from all good bookshops. Helen is on Twitter at twitter.com/theshepherdswi1 Ivan is on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ivanpatrickday/
...in which we climb one of Grasmere's low-level favourites to dine in a dell with outdoors cook, author and mental health speaker Harrison Ward – a.k.a. Fell Foodie. Setting out along the old drove road from Allan Bank, Harrison speaks frankly about his former life: of his long history of clinical depression; his obesity; and his 12-year struggle with alcohol. Rising through juniper glades, he talks about the fell walk that was to change his life, and the long-time love of cooking that gave birth to a new passion and persona. As we settle beside a beck for a fine freshly-cooked stew, we consider the healing properties of the outdoors and the value of slow moments on the hill. Arriving atop a bitterly cold Silver How, a pun-laden chat ensues about cooking for Mary Berry, New Year fireworks over Grasmere and baking on Bakestall. Find out more about Fell Foodie at https://www.fellfoodie.co.uk His debut book, Cook Out, is available at all good bookstores (local is best!)
...in which we embark on one of our all-time favourite walks – up the Glendereterra valley – to ask why runners head into the toughest of fell landscapes on journeys of adventure, endurance, technical challenge and self-discovery. As we delve into the Back o' Skidda', we hear from Keswick born-and-bred Jacob Tonkin about the heritage of fell-running passed to him by his grandparents, and his support efforts on the Bob Graham Round. Returning below Lonscale Fell, we follow Chloe Thwaites' journey from near-paralysis on an A&E ward to a reconnected love with northern landscapes. Finally, we speak with Danielle Ledbury, author of new book Why we Run, about the 28 extraordinary runners she has photographed in the Lakeland fells; about trauma and recovery; about grief and joy; about vulnerability and community; and about that elusive flow... Why we Run can be ordered from Dave's publishing house, Inspired by Lakeland.
...in which we return to post-war Cumbria in the company of author, broadcaster and parliamentarian, Melvyn Bragg, to reflect on his early years in the market town of Wigton. Evoking a close-knit community on the threshold of change, Melvyn describes daily life in the Black-a-Moor inn – the Bragg family home for a decade – and celebrates the rich diversity of small-town working class culture: of hound dog trailing; dances; and Youth Hostel trips to the Lakes. Following a breakdown aged 13, Melvyn explains the role education and reading played in his recovery, and the fork in the road that tore him from the community he loved. Finally, we learn why “Wigton men just fight for the love of fighting”, why walking is the best way of understanding a place, why Binsey is best, and why it's time to rebuild Hadrian's Wall... around the whole of Cumbria… You can buy Back in the Day from all good bookshops, including bookscumbria.com/product/cumbrian-books/arts-and-literature/fiction/melvyn-bragg/back-in-the-day-2/
...in which we head to misty Ennerdale in search of the Lake District's iconic sheep breed: the Herdwick. In the company of Will Rawling, Chairman of the Herdwick Sheep Breeders Association – whose family have farmed the far-western fells for 500 years – we take a whistle-stop tour through the breed's long history, from its likely Norse roots through the days of the great wool wealth of Abbeys to its integral place on the family farm. Pausing a moment to chat dialogue – 'herd-wyke', Grike and Sampson's Bratfull – Will describes the perfect Herdwick and offers a theory about its remarkable tone-changing fleece. Descending to Matty Benn's Bridge, we consider the three-way relationship between farm, common and sheep and ask what happens when it breaks down. Taking a wander down memory lane – recalling April evenings in lambing fields; grazed knees on cobbled yards; farm-talk in the pub – we ask what future there is for the breed, and for those who care for it, in a fast-changing world. The Herdwick Sheep Breeders Association can be found at herdwick-sheep.com Will is featured in Amy Bateman's Forty Farms, edited and published by Dave's Inspired by Lakeland imprint.
...in which we visit Crosthwaite to shine a light on one of Lakeland's most neglected historic figures – remarkable Eliza Lynn Linton, the first female salaried journalist in England. In the company of author Philippa Harrison, Keswick Museum curator Nicola Lawson and academic Sue Wilkinson, we learn about Eliza's traumatic childhood and the self-education that allowed her to escape the family home and embark on a writing career among the literary elite of her day. Reflecting on the passionate attachments Eliza formed with both men and women, we turn to Eliza's beautiful The Lake Country, a 'love book' to Cumbria that inspired Alfred Wainwright, and which Rawnsley thought would never be bettered. As we make our way to the overgrown Lynn family grave, we consider the contradictions of a contrary life; of Eliza's complex views on sexuality; of the great U-turn that saw her abandon her one-time progressive feminist ideals; and of the curious fact that this once infamous writer – and her superlative guidebook – are now barely acknowledged, even in the margins of Cumbrian history. Philippa's book, A Mountain Republic: Crosthwaite Parish and the Eighteen Men, can be found at all local bookshops. Sue can be found on Twitter at https://twitter.com/sue_wilkinson For more on Keswick Museum see https://keswickmuseum.org.uk
...in which we take a timeless tour of Aira Force – one of Lakeland's enduring honeypots – to uncover a history that takes in Victorian tourists, Colonial tree collectors and Baronial money and power. Treading paths trod for generations, we set out from the Pinetum glade in the company of National Trust Cultural Heritage Curator Harvey Wilkinson and consider Aira Force's early days, when oaks dominated the gorge and deer swept the fells. Entering woodland, we discuss the one-time estate's transition to pleasure ground in the age of the nouveau riche Merchant Princes of northern England. With diversions to talk Potter, politics and poetry, we reach the mighty Force itself, where we consider the sublime power that still draws crowds in their hundred-thousand, and the management challenges that face the Trust in an era of heavy footfall and increasingly extreme weather. For more details on Aira Force and Gowbarrow Park, see ationaltrust.org.uk/visit/lake-district/aira-force-and-gowbarrow-park
...in which we journey back 200 years to the early days of Lake District tourism in the company of Jeff Cowton MBE, principal curator at Wordsworth Grasmere. Tracing the footsteps of the first well-to-do visitors, we ascend the pastures of Latrigg, midway between the perennial honeypot of Keswick and long-climbed slopes of Skiddaw. As we walk, we consider tourism's roots in the continental Grand Tour, and the events that shifted 'strangers'' eyes to the-once 'frightful' backwaters of Cumbria. Influenced by concepts like 'the sublime' and 'the picturesque', we note key figures in the development of both tourism and the aesthetic appreciation of landscape, from Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Father Thomas West. Arriving at one of Lakeland's great viewpoints, we reflect on the characters that embraced the early tourist boom, including polymath eccentric Peter Crosthwaite and co-founder of Derwent Water's remarkable regatta, Joseph Pocklington, before advancing in time to the arrival of Wordsworth, Coleridge... and the railways. For more about the early days of tourism in the Lake District, the ‘To the Lakes!' exhibition at Wordsworth Grasmere runs for the remainder of 2023 and through much of 2024. Wordsworth Grasmere is also hosting two events that celebrate the journeys of early tourists, specifically: Ann Radcliffe's Ascent of Skiddaw, 1794 – Thursday 28 September 2023 and Historical Meal and Walk – Saturday 9 September 2023 that recreates the experience of a 1792 tourist with a historical meal and guided walk up Helm Crag. For more information see: wordsworth.org.uk/blog/events/to-the-lakes-historical-meal-and-walk/
...in which we stride out from Fell Foot Farm at the foot of Wrynose Pass to explore the upper reaches of Little Langdale with National Trust Archaeologist Jamie Lund. Opening with a brief history of the valley, we consider its strategic importance in the heart of the Lakes, and the historic route – used by the Romans onwards – that draws down to Fell Foot, a one-time inn. Noting the remarkable Norse 'Ting Mound' behind the farm, we learn about the enclosed dale-bottom common, so valuable that it was never built upon. Passing the beck – canalised in medieval times then re-channelled in the 1800s – we ascend Greenburn to one of the UK's best preserved relic copper mines, where we talk prospecting, pollution and power. Hearing about the 'Nick Stick Seat' – where rural workers sat for a day's labour – we close by reflecting on the future of a remarkable valley.
...in which we take a deep dive into the miniature world of lichens with Cumbria Lichens & Bryophytes expert Pete Martin. Embarking from the car park at Seatoller – and not wandering much further - we ask what a lichen is (a question not easily answered) and why lichens matter. Wandering up-dale towards Seathwaite, we stop at trees and walls to encounter five of the county's most recognisable lichens and observe a remarkable world of elf ears, maps, jam tarts and wine gums. Deep in the Borrowdale rainforest we consider the expansive 'second skin' lichen and bryophyte ecosystems that form on older pollarded trees, and the key role lichens play in fixing both carbon and nitrogen. Taking a long view of land use in the valley, our journey ends at the famous Borrowdale Yews, where we learn why Wordsworth's 'Fraternal Four' were never four at all, and why, in ecology, things are often more complex than they first seem. You can find Pete on Twitter twitter.com/onLoughrigg The Cumbria Lichen & Bryophyte Group can be found at bumbrialichensbryophytes.org.uk
...in which we are joined by industrial archeologist supremo Mark Hatton to talk all things slate as we ascend and then tunnel deep into the fellside of The Old Man of Coniston. Picking through the abandoned remains of old working floors and tips, we learn about the long history of slate quarrying in the Lake District – an industry spread over 200 sites that yielded a range of highly-prized stone. Discussing how slate is formed, we make our way to the powerhouse, smithy and working floor of the Old Man workings, where millions of tonnes of stone were shaped into prized roofing slate by generations of miners. As we wander, we hear about the likely Norman origins of the industry; the revolution wrought by compressed air; the perils of journeying home in the snow; and the Sunday-morning miracles that collapsed caverns – and saved lives. *** It would be remiss not to note that we recorded underground in the company of an experienced guide, and kitted with helmets and torches. Exploring these workings is immensely enjoyable - in the right company and with the right kit. In all cases, leave the workings as you found them. ***
..in which we don the Countrystride shorts for a balmy trip west into sylvan Eskdale to hear about Ian and Jen Hall's 27-year journey to make a success of a Lakeland hill farm. As we set out from the handsome farmhouse at Fisherground – one-time home to the couple, alongside close friends Anne-Marie and Geoff Wake – we learn about the passion that drove both couples (plus family and other animals) onto the farm, and the highs and lows of living the farming dream. Reflecting as we walk on divers matters – from gate stoups to Herdwick rudd; from bathing in the Esk to the thrill of hound trailing – we reach St Catherine's Church, where Ian preached for many years, to reflect on the trauma of Foot & Mouth, making peace with tourism and the brilliantly named, but mechanically flawed, 'Hayter Potatovator'. You can buy Ian's book Fisherground: Living the Dream and other titles from bookscumbria.com/?s=ian+hall&post_type=product and all good local bookshops.
...in which we take a tour of honeypot Ambleside in the company of Blue Badge guide, and lover of all things Ambleside, Alison Pickering. Setting out from Rothay Park, we visit the riverside Roman Fort, once a thriving settlement with strategic links throughout Cumbria, before making our way via the centuries-spanning milling powerhouse of Stock Ghyll into the centre of town to talk about its industrial transition from wool town to tourist mecca. As we wander, under pristine spring skies, we learn about the Roman gifts of damsons and apples; the battle to save Stock Ghyll Park; and the real purpose of diminutive Bridge House, before asking why the town's chapel was only in use for 43 years; and what a Victorian tourist would pack into their busy Lakeland tour. Alison Pickering can be found at cumbriatouristguides.org/guide/alison-pickering/ She can also be found on Instagram at instagram.com/amblesidealison/
...in which we travel east to the big-sky North York Moors to meet access campaigner and Cabinet Office disability ambassador Debbie North on a stretch of her beloved Coast to Coast walk. Setting out in springtime squalls from The Lion Inn at Blakey – infamous stopping point on Wainwright's enduringly popular cross-country journey – we learn from Debs about the outdoors childhood that forged her connection with wild places, before following her life-changing journey from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay during which she fell in love not only with the north country, but also with travel companion (and colleague) Andy North. Recalling the loss of her mobility and the dark days that followed, Debs describes the first ever Coast to Coast crossing made in a wheelchair; recollects her doomed attempts to reconnect with nature using didgeridoos; and tells us why she isn't calling for Stannah Stairlifts to be installed on Scafell Pike. You can find out more about Debs at debbienorth.org and on Twitter at twitter.com/DebbieNorth29 You can find out more about Access the Dales, Debs' charity. here.
...in which we visit one of Lakeland's great historic houses, Lowther Castle, to explore the history of the 'Yellow Earl': Hugh Lowther, 5th Earl of Lonsdale, one of the most extravagant members of the English aristocracy. In the company of Charlotte Fairbairn, seanchaidh of the Lowther family, we rewind in time to the early days of the Lowther dynasty – to the growth of the Whitehaven coalfields and the tyrannies of 'Wicked Jimmy' – to set the scene for Hugh's birth. Never intended to inherit the estate – 75,000 acres and wealth beyond dreams – the young Earl embarked upon a life of opulence and hedonism, spending vast sums and pretty much squandering the family fortune. As we trace the story of a remarkable life – of the Earl's love of animals; of his extra-marital activities; of his temporary banishment to the Arctic; of his hunts with the Kaiser – we ask what kind of man he was; why his grave is so modest; and... why yellow? Finally we consider the Earl's legacy – that stretches from boxing rules to Arsenal FC's away strip and the AA's livery. The Ten Thousand Daffodils installation is running at Lowther Castle until 24 June. To visit Lowther Castle and its exhibits see lowthercastle.org You can find Charlotte at her website here. Charlotte is giving a talk about the Yellow Earl at the Farmers' Arms on 10 May.
...in which we celebrate our 100th birthday with an ascent of Grasmere's favourite fell, Helm Crag, to consider the question: "What is the unique magic of the Lake District?" In the company of Little Langdale cragsman and author Bill Birkett, poet Harriet Fraser, photographer Rob Fraser and – sharing our birthday – 90-year-old Gordon Bambrough, we enjoy blue skies as we climb steadily to The Lion and the Lamb's rocky top. As we walk, we explore our own relationships with Cumbria, how each of us fell in love with north-country landscapes, and what the fells mean to us. As we rove, we are joined by dozens of Lakes-lovers who answer the same enduring question: "What is the magic of Lakeland for you?" before picking a piece of poetry or prose that articulates the magic for them. Our readers for the episode – with many thanks – are the brilliant Sue Allan and Jonathan Humble. Emily Hasler's poem 'Grasmere Lake' is taken from The Built Environment and is published by Pavilion Poetry at Liverpool University Press. With thanks to all of our many contributors to this episode: you're all stars :-)