TESTPIECE Climbing

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A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from good to great.

TESTPIECE


    • Sep 15, 2025 LATEST EPISODE
    • weekly NEW EPISODES
    • 1h 47m AVG DURATION
    • 176 EPISODES


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    Latest episodes from TESTPIECE Climbing

    #173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa

    Play Episode Listen Later Sep 15, 2025 87:24


    The legend himself, Chris Sharma.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

    Board Talk #3 — Janja's Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge

    Play Episode Listen Later Sep 8, 2025 84:11


    Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.'Classics' mentioned:"Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45°Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

    #172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach

    Play Episode Listen Later Sep 1, 2025 103:13


    Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16).Here's where you can find Jesse online:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

    Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick's Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game”

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 25, 2025 89:17


    This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

    #171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 18, 2025 102:34


    Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world. Enjoy this chat with one of greats.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

    Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good'

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 11, 2025 122:21


    Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua HorsleyTHIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55 degree MoonBoardBen Kim's First Time on the TB2 MirrorBen Moon and Sam Prior on the 2024 MoonBoardBoard accounts mentioned (MoonBoard Focused Instagrams): @jessieisboard, @steve_radar4, @daradar_boards, @good_condies, @40degreelogbook, @cool.board.climbsOrganic ClimbingSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement

    Play Episode Listen Later Aug 4, 2025 115:33


    Ravioli Biceps! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World's First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 28, 2025 81:06


    This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Today's episode covers:The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent)Yannick Flohe's World's First 8C Flash (or was it?)The Pro's and Con's of Pushing Things To The Absolute LimitFOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in RocklandsSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 21, 2025 150:46


    Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up).On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers.This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #167 ‘Board Talk' — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 14, 2025 132:53


    Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk' podcast!Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley.Some topics covered in this episode are:Board Lords episodes 6 and 7 Recent Moon YouTube on the OG board (2010!)Are Boards Morpho?Ethics and Style on BoardsThe WORLDS FIRST confirmed V15 on a BoardThe MOST repeated climb of any kind in the world.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Michael Rosato's InstagramBoard Lords #6Board Lords #7OG Moonboard VideoMadrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17's, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level

    Play Episode Listen Later Jul 7, 2025 110:58


    Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod! Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world.Also we get into Board Lord's Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Noah Wheeler's InstagramBenn Wheeler's InstagramWheel Rock PatreonWheel rock YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Wheel_RockWheeler Brother's Testpiece EpisodeBoard Lords Episode #7Tension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #165 ‘Good Temps' 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom's [V17] Aesthetic's Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent'

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 30, 2025 124:38


    Good Temps is back! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Today's episode covers:Brooke Rabatou's FFA of Excalibur (15c)Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11)Mount Doom (V17) and the importance of aesthetics, which leads to a discussion about how our sport actually progressesMellow Rock GamesControversy around Sung Su's sending Burden of Dreams (V17)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 23, 2025 111:47


    Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering.Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Obe Carrion's InstagramRampageMadrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #163 Michael Rosato — Board Lords, Board Culture, Standardized Vs Spray, The Future Of Boards, and Board Grading

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 16, 2025 133:38


    Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord' series on their YouTube Channel.Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2.Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards.This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Michael's InstagramTestpiece Episode #102 with the Tension CrewJosh and Tim Trying The TB2Organic ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #162 Jonathan Siegrist — What It Takes To Send At Your Limit, Different Climbing Cultures Around The World, and Having Longevity As a Professional In Climbing

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 9, 2025 130:23


    Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor. This wasn't his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line.Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the long haul.SHOW NOTES:Jonathan's InstagramErebor, 9bSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #161 ‘Good Temps' — A New Recurring Group Podcast with Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley

    Play Episode Listen Later Jun 2, 2025 111:41


    Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps' podcast!This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.SHOW NOTES:Carlo's InstagramWill's InstagramAustin's InstagramJosh's InstagramThe Dark Side MovieSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #160 Hamish McArthur — Going ‘Invisible Man', Sending Megatron And NOMTW, and What Achieving Your Potential Actually Means

    Play Episode Listen Later May 26, 2025 104:40


    Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked, on his first session! Yes, that's right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours.Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it's a pleasure to get to peer into his process and hear about his path from “Good to Great”.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Hamish's Last Testpiece Episode, #122Hamish's InstagramHamish Sending No One Mourns The Wicked [V17] In A SessionHamish Does The Second Ascent Of Megatron [V17]Madrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #159 Dave MacLeod [Part 2] — Be The Lightest Possible FOREVER, How To Peak For a Specific Moment, and Why Cutting Calories Is The Last Resort

    Play Episode Listen Later May 19, 2025 77:03


    You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!).This episode was ‘snipped' from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Podcast [Part 1] with DaveDave MacLeod's InstagramDave MacLeod's YouTube ChannelMoving The Needle, Dave's Latest BookDave's Journey To The Ketogenic DietDave Eating McDonalds EverydayTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #158 Dave MacLeod — You Can't Avoid Risk, The Right Definition Of Bold Climbing, Low Confidence Is Good, and Why Being Great Means Being Different

    Play Episode Listen Later May 12, 2025 116:10


    You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod.This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme's in his latest book, Moving The Needle.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads.SHOW NOTES:Dave MacLeod's InstagramDave MacLeod's YouTube ChannelMoving The Needle, Dave's Latest BookOrganic ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass', and How To Make Something Great

    Play Episode Listen Later May 5, 2025 143:37


    Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock, and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy's under his belt!Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass' climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy's. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons why climbing is viewed the way it is today.SHOW NOTES:Josh Lowell's InstagramReel Rock's InstagramReel Rock WebsiteRampage on YouTubeSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 28, 2025 130:10


    Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode.Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior'. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Tim Kang's InstagramFocus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim KangHamish McArthur Testpiece EpisodeMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 25, 2025 47:02


    This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma', the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi's, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 21, 2025 123:51


    Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma' which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 14, 2025 97:02


    Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn't grown as quickly as bouldering.And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.SHOW NOTES:Tyler's InstagramTyler's YouTube ChannelFull Metal Brisket (15a)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good' Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno's, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

    Play Episode Listen Later Apr 7, 2025 91:04


    Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He's one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he's flashed up to V14. How's that for an intro?!Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he's been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.SHOW NOTES:BeastmakerBeastmakingFoxy ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can't Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 31, 2025 104:29


    Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she's a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14's this past year.Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Shauna Coxsey InstagramShauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)Foxy ClimbingMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro's, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17's In The World

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 28, 2025 18:02


    This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17's in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He's A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 24, 2025 95:23


    Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times!Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15.Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he's just a ‘YouTuber' and not a ‘real climber'.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 21, 2025 48:10


    This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context!Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one...Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing!SHOW NOTES:Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock WebsiteSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA's Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 17, 2025 101:49


    Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock.Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future.Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what's actually going on.SHOW NOTES:Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock WebsiteSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 10, 2025 114:25


    Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA'ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US!You'll also recognize Chris' voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions.SHOW NOTES:Chris' InstagramChris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11Kong Extendo Cheater DrawSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments'

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 7, 2025 14:44


    This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #144 for context!SHOW NOTES:Chris Schulte's InstagramChris Schulte's Black Diamond PageChris Schulte's Testpiece Episode #144Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression' Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800's, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn't Scale

    Play Episode Listen Later Mar 3, 2025 123:56


    Chris Schulte has been there and FA'd that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven't met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you'll enjoy some new stories that you haven't heard before.SHOW NOTES:Chris Schulte's InstagramChris Schulte's Black Diamond PageJosh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect' Isn't Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 24, 2025 105:03


    Simon Lorenzi has done more V17's on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there's a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!That's because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17's there.This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!If you loved Simon as much as we do, we've got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!SHOW NOTES:Bushido ClimbingSimon Lorenzi's InstagramSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 17, 2025 107:51


    Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That's a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.SHOW NOTES:Rob Hunter's InstagramTyler Nelson's InstagramRob's Business, My Therapy PhysioTyler's Company, Camp 4 Human PerformanceTyler's YouTube ChannelTyler's Demonstration Of Overcoming IsometricsSqueezing The Lemon / Orange DemonstrationTyler's Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”Tyler's Previous Testpiece Episode, #114Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 14, 2025 17:06


    This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo' Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #140 for context!SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/Austin Hoyt's / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ClimbveezAustin Hoyt's Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHkSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #140 Austin Hoyt — Breaking Beta On Lucid Dreaming, FA'ing NE's First V15, “NE Is The New SE”, and Why Everyone From There Has Strong Fingers

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 10, 2025 112:11


    Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.Austin recently FA'd the North East's first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch' beta for the iconic crux move.Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it's been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt's InstagramAustin Hoyt's / Veez YouTube ChannelIssac Leff's YouTube ChannelBeta labs (Austin's Company)Mad RockDecoy HoldsMimic HoldsTestpiece Podcasts Mentioned:Noah and Benn WheelerAdam ShaharRoss FulkersonSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #139 Ross Fulkerson — 70ft Whips, Filming “Between The Tides”, Expectations Of A Pro-Climber, and How To Deliver Peak Performance When Everything Is Against You

    Play Episode Listen Later Feb 3, 2025 97:49


    This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that's why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”.Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of  Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells.This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can't quite capture.SHOW NOTES:“Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”Filmed and Edited by Raul OnyettRoss Fulkerson's InstagramRoss Fulkerson's YouTubeRoss' Previous Testpiece Episodes:Podcast #3Podcast #4 Podcast #124 Podcast #133Mad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #138 BONUS [Kai Whaley] — Secret Projects, His Favorite Place To Climb, Rocklands/Switzerland Ticklist, and Being a Good Climber

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 31, 2025 17:32


    This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong' climber.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #137 for context!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley's InstagramKai Whaley's YouTubeKai Whaley's Episode, #137Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #137 Kai Whaley — Youngest To Climb V10/12/16 And 17 Soon?!, NOT Being A Comp Kid, Live Streaming Highballs And V16s, and BOARDS

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 27, 2025 103:27


    “What up gangstas and shorties, it's your boy, Kai."Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn't be surprising if by the time you read this he's sent!Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17's in the next few years, he'll also take the title for V17.Kai's YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley's InstagramKai Whaley's YouTubeBoard Climb's mentioned in the episode:“Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024“Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45“Menacing Creation”, TB2Brian Squire's Board AccountVideos mentioned in the podcast:Off LeashA Little LifeSqu(h)amishTestpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:Adam Shahar's episodeMartin Keller's episodeDavid Fitzgerald's episode #1 and #2Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 20, 2025 133:33


    Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts.Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be.Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy!SHOW NOTES:Timothy Kang's InstagramTimothy Kang's YouTubeFocus - A Bishop Highball ProjectTim's Best Day, Testpiece PodcastTim's Most Recent Testpiece PodcastNoah Wheeler's Testpiece PodcastAdam Shahar's Testpiece PodcastSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #135 BONUS [Zach Galla] — 9A Surprises, The Project He's Currently Locked In On, Simulator Training, and Who's Going To Be Next On The Process

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 17, 2025 12:50


    This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A's / V17's he's tried, the project he's currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16), and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #134 for context!SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla's InstagramThe Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #134 Zach Galla — The Process [V16] SA, Transitioning From Comps To The Hardest Highballs Around The World, Sosa V16 FA, and New Core Climbing Companies

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 13, 2025 122:43


    Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here.Since we last chatted he's been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach's second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16, one of the proudest and most beautiful V16's in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA'd it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15's all over the world and FA'd a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa"!Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex”. Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love.SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla's InstagramPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77The Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowBest Believe It on TensionLost Tapes on MellowUnstoppable by Chief KeefLove Sosa by Chief KeefConfluence on MellowDelayMyBelay on InstagramAustin Ernst on InstagramZach Galla's Board AccountBrain Squire's Board AccountBD Hex TeamBD Hex InstagramToinon BeigneNoah KeithleySean FaulknerFinn StackBobby VannoyAntigravNoiseSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #133 Island Boys — The Boys Go To Mallorca, Coaches Coaching Each Other, Using Fear To Your Advantage, and “Pessimists Sound Smart; Optimists Get Rich”

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 6, 2025 123:33


    A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top!We've got Ross Fulkerson, Marco Giacomangeli, and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley. These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well.Each of these athletes are  active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear to your advantage which is absolutely crucial when you push your limits.SHOW NOTES:Ross Fulkerson's Instagram and YouTube ChannelMarco Giacomangeli's InstagramBryce Belshin's InstagramMind To MotionAl Rangel Testpiece PodcastsEpisode #120Episode #7Previous Ross Fulkerson Testpiece EpisodesEpisode #124 Episode #4 Episode #3Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #132 BONUS [Nathaniel Coleman] — V17 Grading Thoughts, Reflections On Naming, and What He Remembers Most From Projecting

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 3, 2025 15:42


    This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked”, and what the name truly means.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow!SHOW NOTES:Nathaniel Coleman's InstagramNo One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63: Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #131Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #131 Nathaniel Coleman — V17 FA “No One Mourns The Wicked” [Defying Gravity Sit], The Newest And Best V17 In The World, and Breaking The Rules to Go from Good to Great

    Play Episode Listen Later Jan 1, 2025 112:04


    Special podcast!! Nathaniel Coleman just did a V17 FA, “No One Mourns The Wicked”! This is the first ascent of the highly sought after low start to the iconic V15 testpiece, Defying Gravity.Nathaniel reached out to Testpiece and asked if we could do a podcast to give a behind the scenes story to accompany the video that dropped on Mellow TODAY. Watch the video and listen to the podcast so you get the visuals and the detailed blow by blow!If you don't know who Nathaniel Coleman is (really?!!?), you can listen to the first episode he did with Testpiece back on Episode #63. Nathaniel adds this V17 FA to his already world class ticks and Olympic silver medal.SHOW NOTES:Defying Gravity, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNo One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63Austin Geiman, Testpiece Episode #129Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #130 Good To Great — What The Best Of The Best Focus On, Execution, Resilience, Intrinsic Motivation, Stretching Your Limits, and Trying HARD

    Play Episode Listen Later Dec 23, 2024 18:51


    This episode is a roundup of 5 climbs from Testpiece guests, some of the BEST climbers in the world, sharing what it takes to go from Good to Great.Josh also shares what's in his personal note titled “What I've Learned From Talking To The Best Climbers In The World”.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #129 Austin Geiman — Defying Gravity V15, 11 Years and 100+ Sessions, The History The Sit And The Next Generation, “Best Boulder Ever Best Experience Ever”, and The Power Of Perseverance

    Play Episode Listen Later Dec 16, 2024 92:22


    Austin Geiman recently made waves when he sent the iconic testpiece, Defying Gravity, V15, after 11 years and 100+ sessions. Austin started trying this boulder while it was still a project and he was there when Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb snagged the FA in 2013 in the film Huntsmen. He continued trying it through the years and then he also was there when the younger generation claimed the long awaited repeats. He finally added his name to the list and has even been supporting the next gen on the sit. Austin is deeply connected with all aspects of this iconic boulder and he shares with us the background on Defying Gravity, what makes it special, his epic send, and what he thinks about the next level sit.Austin is also an extremely accomplished life long climber in many other aspects with loads of hard sends and FA's under his belt, as well as being a World Cup Semi-finalist and Nationals Finalist. He's also coached, route set, and owns a climbing gym in Colorado Springs (Springs Climbing Center).SHOW NOTES:Austin's InstagramHuntsmenAustin Sending Defying Gravity, V15Austin's Gym in Colorado SpringsSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #128 Anne-Worley Moelter — CEO of Movement, Running The Largest Network of Gyms In The US, Climbing's Unique Community, The Evolution Of Climbing Gyms and Where They're Headed

    Play Episode Listen Later Dec 9, 2024 92:17


    Anne-Worley Moelter is one of the most important people in climbing today because she is the CEO of Movement Climbing, the largest network of climbing gyms in the US with a portfolio of 30 gyms and another 3 coming soon. These gyms set the tone and craft the climbing experience for millions of climbers.Anne-Worley is a lifer who has done SO MUCH for our sport. She started her journey in the industry over 20 years ago working as an assistant manager at a gym. She went on to hold many different roles in the industry such as being a founding member of ABS, running USAC, and of course, opening the original Movement in Boulder, CO in 2009 with her husband Mike Moelter.Movement has gone through a lot of changes since that first gym, but now Anne-Worley is back to run the much larger organization.Tune in to hear Anne-Worley share insights on how our industry has evolved and where it's heading. You can't miss these insights from someone who is in a unique position in climbing and has worn almost every hat you can wear in the industry!SHOW NOTES:Movement Climbing WebsiteMovement Climbing InstagramSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #127 Tim, My Dude — V17 Is The New V16, $100 Bet That ‘Shaolin'…, Professional To Weekend Warrior, Embracing Weird Beta, and Josh Reflects On Mallorca

    Play Episode Listen Later Dec 2, 2024 137:04


    Timothy Kang, aka “Tim, My Dude” is back on the pod to talk about the latest climbing news, an update in his life going from a pro-climber to a weekend warrior, and hear about Josh's recent trip to Mallorca.If you are new to the podcast you may not recognize why he is “Tim, My Dude” and that is because of the many many podcasts Josh and Tim recorded previously and how each podcast started. If you like Josh and Tim's vibe on this one, be sure to visit the previous dozens of episodes where Josh and Tim cover all things high level climbing.SHOW NOTES:Shaolin, V17Noise (Sean Bailey Clothing Co)Wheel Rock Defying Gravity SitKai Whaley Trying ShaolinCharles Barefoot V17Pete Whittaker Trying ItTerranova V16 or V17?Spots of TimeDarth GraderFOCUS (Tim climbing highballs in Bishop)Tim Climbing at Moe'sSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

    #126 Natalia Grossman — 4x WC Season Winner [in a row!], Mindset As An Underdog vs Topdog, Climbing Your Best While Injured, and Knowing She's ‘Ready' For a Comp

    Play Episode Listen Later Nov 25, 2024 96:58


    Natalia Grossman is one of the top female competitors of all time. She has won an astounding 11 World Cups and 4 World Cup seasons in a row! She also competed in the 2024 Paris Olympics for Team USA.Even though Natalia won the WC season in 2024, it was a tough year for her. She suffered a serious injury during the semi finals in the first World Cup competition of the year. Somehow she pushed through it to win the competition, but afterwards it was clear that the injury was a major one. The worst part? This was just a few months before the Olympic Games.Hear from Natalia about what it was like dealing with her injury through the Olympics as well as the entire season where she ultimately still pulled off multiple World Cup wins and won the all around title. Natalia also goes into the ups and downs of the pressures she has felt over her career. Both when she was the underdog and then the top dog. Natalia also shares how she knows when she's ready for a competition. And here's a hint — it's not when she sends a no-handed slab boulder!SHOW NOTES:Natalias Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/natalia_grossman/Natalias Board Climbing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/natalia_boardclimbs/Natalia and Brook Climbing in RMNP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-mvzn_QjAQKilter Climbs Natalia Mentioned:Miami Vice Grips: https://www.instagram.com/p/ChYAAl1FlLI/ Death Touch: https://www.instagram.com/p/CaLdEd6JtMr/Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

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