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Show Notes: How I Got My Song Featured with Just Two Emails (made with ChatGPT)Episode Summary:In this episode, I break down how I got my new song, Valentina, featured on the music publication V13 with just two quick emails. I'll walk you through the exact emails I sent, the importance of follow-ups, and the value of building long-term relationships in the music industry. If you're a songwriter or artist looking for media coverage, this episode is packed with actionable insights!What You'll Learn in This Episode:The exact email I sent to request a song featureThe importance of a follow-up email and what it should sayWhy relationships matter in securing media featuresHow persistence and professionalism can lead to press opportunitiesWhy you should overcome the fear of rejection and just send that emailEmail Breakdown:Initial Email:Quick introduction & reminder of past collaborationsPitching the new song and why it fits their audienceOutlining how the blog/publication benefits from featuring the songClosing with gratitude and a call to actionFollow-Up Email (Sent a Few Days Later):A short, polite reminderGiving the recipient an easy way to declineEncouraging a response without being pushyThe result? A confirmed feature!Key Takeaways:Follow up! If you don't hear back, don't assume it's a no.Relationships matter. Start conversations with publications early and stay in touch.Rejection is part of the process. Keep reaching out to different outlets.Be clear and professional in your emails. Make it easy for publications to say yes.Just send the email! Don't let fear hold you back from potential opportunities.Links & Resources:Read the full feature on V13: https://v13.net/2025/04/connor-lin-frost-valentina-single-premiere/Thanks for tuning in! If you found this helpful, don't forget to subscribe and share with your fellow songwriters. See you next time!Write something...
THIS WEEK on Rendering Unconscious! https://renderingunconscious.substack.com RU338: RICHARD LEDES ON HIS LATEST FILM "V13" STARRING ALAN CUMMING AS FREUD: https://renderingunconscious.substack.com/p/ru338-richard-ledes-on-his-latest I sat down for a talk with Director Richard Ledes to discuss his new film "V13." The film, set in contemporary New York, explores events and the intersecting lives of persons in Vienna in the year 1913. The film features acclaimed actor Alan Cumming as Freud. Watch the full episode now exclusively at https://renderingunconscious.substack.com/p/ru338-richard-ledes-on-his-latest Richard C. Ledes is a New York City filmmaker, artist and writer. Visit his website https://www.richardledes.com/ and Follow him at Instagram https://www.instagram.com/rledes/ As a bonus, this week I also posted the video of our prior conversation, RU198, this time I spoke with Richard and actor David Patrick Kelly, who portrays Lacan in Richard's previous film "Adieu Lacan," which received acclaim in the psychoanalytic community and beyond. Watch the full episode now exclusively at https://renderingunconscious.substack.com/p/ru198-actor-david-patrick-kelly-and Join Richard Ledes and Alan Cumming this Thursday, April 3, for a live in-person event at IFC, where they will be present for a Q&A following the 7PM screening of V13. The event is already sold out but you can find more information at https://www.ifccenter.com/films/v13/ For those interested in entering into psychoanalsysis with me, I provide remote psychoanalytic treatment online, as well as consultation services for those undergoing psychoanalytic formation. For more information visit my website https://www.drvanessasinclair.net Feel free to email me directly at vs [AT] drvanessasinclair [DOT] net https://www.drvanessasinclair.net/contact/
Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she's a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14's this past year.Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Shauna Coxsey InstagramShauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)Foxy ClimbingMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
“Whoever is born of God doesn't commit sin, for the seed of Christ remains in him.” Something happens when we believe. We have a new nature, the nature of Christ. “Whoever is born again – into God's family – does not commit sin, because this new life, this seed of Jesus now lives in him – and we cannot sin, because we are born of God. V10, “In this the children of God are made manifest – revealed – and so are the children of the devil...” You can see the clear difference: those who are born of God and walk in the Spirit cannot sin, and those that are born of the devil are going to sin! V10ff, “Whosever does not do what is right is not of God, neither he that does not love his brother. For this is the message we heard from the beginning, that we should love one another.” Love is of God! But Cain was ‘of the wicked one', he had the evil of Satan in him and slew his brother. Why? Because Cain recognised that his own works were not accepted by God, but his brother's were! Cain typifies the sinner, and Able typifies the believer who obeys God and is of Him. Cain hated Abel. So John writes, V13, “Don't be surprised my brothers if the world hates you!” It will! But, v14ff, “We know we have passed from death the life because we love the brethren. Whoever does not love his brother, abides in death. He who hates his brother – this is very strong – is a murderer like Cain, and no murderer has eternal life in him. This is how we know the Love of God, because He laid down His Life for us!” God in Christ laid down His Life for us. God, who is Life, could not physically die, but as Jesus said, “I am in the Father and the Father is in Me.” So when Jesus died, it was in fact as God in the flesh, dying on our behalf. Jesus and the Father are One. John continues, v16, “We ought to lay down our lives for the brethren."
Predicazione espositiva del Pastore Jonathan Whitman di Matteo capitolo 5 versetti da 13 a 16. Registrata presso il Centro Evangelico Battista di Perugia il 26 Gennaio 2025.Titolo del messaggio: "Sei utile o inutile? Tre attributi fondamentali dei veri cittadini del cielo"MATTEO 5 V13-1613 «Voi siete il sale della terra; ma, se il sale diventa insipido, con che lo si salerà? Non è più buono a nulla se non a essere gettato via e calpestato dagli uomini. 14 Voi siete la luce del mondo. Una città posta sopra un monte non può rimanere nascosta, 15 e non si accende una lampada per metterla sotto un recipiente; anzi la si mette sul candeliere ed essa fa luce a tutti quelli che sono in casa. 16 Così risplenda la vostra luce davanti agli uomini, affinché vedano le vostre buone opere e glorifichino il Padre vostro che è nei cieli.
It was a legendary Tesla conference call!! Elon Musk sounded insanely focused and dialed in as he explained Tesla is planning to launch an self-driving robotaxi service in Austin in June of THIS YEAR. He also clarified he expects Tesla to launch full self driving in many regions across the US in 2025. Additionally, with Optimus and Cybercab Elon retierates he believes not only that Tesla will be the world's most valuable company ... but more valuable than the world's next 5 largest companies combined. Wow. As crazy as it sounds, it just might be true! What are your thoughts on the call? I left feeling very very bullish, feeling the confidence from Elon and the team. 0:00 Intro 0:44 Elon Opening Remarks 13:29 SAY Retail Questions 22:37 Analyst Questions 25:04 Gali Final Thoughts/Rant My X: / gfilche HyperChange Patreon :) / hyperchange Disclaimer: I'm long Tesla stock and nothing in this show is financial advice. Here are my notes from the conference call (note, may not be accurate!!): Tesla Q4 2024 Earnings Call Notes INTRO- ELON OPENING REMARKS -Q4 set record, delivered cars at rate of almost 2M cars/year -Model Y best-selling vehicle of any kind on earth (elon focused and talking quickly) -10Xing on autonomy, not doubling -many investments made this year that will bear immense fruit in the future, for AI -see a path for Tesla to the worlds most valuable company by far, worth more than the next 5 companies combined, difficult but achievable path -overwhelmingly due to autonomous vehicles and autonomous robots -setting up for an epic 2026, and ridiculously good 2027 and 2028 -meeting FSD now is like meeting a toddler -human intuition is linear, we're seeing exponential progress -#1 recommendation is try it -typical passenger car has 10 hours of use out of 168, when its autonomous, itll be used for 55 hours a week … can deliver packages in the middle of thenight, or supply restaurants, all hours of the day or night. 5X increase in utility -more on self driving, continued improvements in safety numbers, much safer to use FSD -V14 will be another big step from V13 -launched CORTEX training cluster at Giga Austin, big step for FSD, continue to invest in training needs -Optimus training needs are about 10X what's needed for the car -cost of training is dropping dramatically over time -Optimus has potential to be north of $10T in revenue, can put a lot training compute into that situation, even pumping $500B into it would be a good deal -future very different from the past, incredible inflection point in human history -proof is in the pudding -launching in June this year in Austin, already have cars moving autonomously in Fremont, thousands of cars per day driving, soon in Austin then elsewhere in the world -toe in the water at first to make sure everything is cool, but we have a general solution for autonomy , then put a few more toes, then a foot. Safety of the general public and those in the car as the top priority -with regard to Optimus, making insane revenue projections that sound insane, i realize that. But i think they will prove to be accurate -several thousand bots made this year, they will be doing useful things by the end of this year, im confidence, production design one at the tesla factories, then will learn for production design two -ramp optimus production faster than anything has ever launched, doesn't take very many years before we'er making 100M of these things per year , 500% growth per year -tried using all these suppliers to get it to build Optimus, but nothing worked, had to build it internally from first principles, the hand is increibdle -long term Optimus will be the value of the company -back to Energy,/earth, -energy storage is a big deal, becoming more important, enables far greater energy output to the grid than is currently possible. -grid has no storage, designed for peak storage, lots of waste -once you have grid energy storage, the potential of the grid is unlocked, at least double -this will drive demand of battery packs as to as much as we can possibly make -shanghai factory starting operation, starting another factory -cant shoot our selves in the foot, battery capacity can only go into storage or mobility, so always making that tradeoff -demand for total Gigawatt hours for batteries, transportation or stationary will grow in a very big way over time 2025 a pivotal year for tesla, launch of full self driving, biggest year in tesla history, maybe even bigger than first car or model s, 3 or y … probably most important year in tesla's history I don't even know who is in 2nd place in real world AI, would need a telescope to see them for rest of notes see pinned comment below!!!
« Il y a pire qu'être démasqué, c'est de ne pas être démasqué. »Victoire, Pascale, Jeanne, Hugo et Louis comparent le récit d'Emmanuel Carrère, L'Adversaire, à son adaptation en film réalisée par Nicole Garcia avec Daniel Auteuil, Géraldine Pailhas, François Cluzet et Emmanuelle Devos. Jean-Claude Romand est un mari attentionné, un père aimant, un médecin respecté : mais un matin de janvier 1993, il assassine sa femme, ses enfants et ses parents avant de tenter de mettre fin à ses jours. La police découvre alors qu'il n'a jamais été médecin, ni même terminé ses études de médecine... Fasciné par ce mensonge vertigineux qui a duré 18 ans, Emmanuel Carrère décide d'écrire à Romand afin de percer sa psychologie.Le film de Nicole Garcia est-il fidèle au livre dont il est tiré ? Réponse dans l'épisode !4 min 06 : On commence par parler du récit L'Adversaire d'Emmanuel Carrère, paru en 2000.58 min 32 : On enchaîne sur l'adaptation en film sortie en 2002 et réalisée par Nicole Garcia avec Daniel Auteuil, Géraldine Pailhas, François Cluzet et Emmanuelle Devos.1 h 40 min 55 : On termine sur nos recommandations autour des true crime et des histoires de mensonges.Avez-vous lu ou vu L'Adversaire ?Recommandations :Ne réveille pas les enfants, écrit par Ariane Chemin (2023)Les pistolets en plastique, réalisé par Jean-Christophe Meurisse (2023)Yellowface, écrit par R. F. Kuang (2022)The Imposter, réalisé par Bart Layton (2012)De sang froid, écrit par Truman Capote (2022)Xavier Dupont de Ligonnès - L'enquête culte de Society (2020)V13, écrit par Emmanuel Carrère (2022)L'écrivain et l'assassin, réalisé par Camille Juza (2024)Sambre, écrit par Alice Géraud (2023)Crédits :The Adversary - Angelo Badalamenti (tiré de la bande-originale L'Adversaire) - 2002
Immeasurably More: Praying More for MoreEphesians 3:14-21 Matthew 6:5-15, Luke 11:1-13January 19th, 2025More people + More prayer = Immeasurably More!Ephesians 3:16-21 (NIV) 16I pray that out of his glorious riches he may strengthen you with power through his Spirit in your inner being, 17 so that Christ may dwell in your hearts through faith. And I pray that you, being rooted and established in love, 18 may have power, together with all the Lord's holy people, to grasp how wide and long and high and deep is the love of Christ, 19 and to know this love that surpasses knowledge—that you may be filled to the measure of all the fullness of God. 20 Now to him who is able to do immeasurably more than all we ask or imagine, according to his power that is at work within us, 21 to him be glory in the church and in Christ Jesus throughout all generations, for ever and ever! Amen.3 Core Prayers for 2025Father, strengthen me in the power of the Holy Spirit in my inner being so that Christ may dwell in my heart. Father, broaden and deepen my experience with love of Christ. Father, fill me up with your fullness. 1 Core ConvictionOur God… is able to do immeasurably more than all we ask or imagine, according to his power that is at work within us.Immeasurably More = Hyper-ek-perissouHyper = Over and above.Ek = exhaustlessness.Perissou = exceedingly, abundantly, beyond what is expected, imagined and hoped for.God wants us to experience more of Him and His love than we do right now and He wants to do more in us, with us, through us and for us than we could ever ask or imagine. 2 “More” Hazards to Avoid When more substitutes for trust/faith. When more becomes all about me. The Always' of More.There is always more to God if you want more of God.God's more is always for more than just you. God always rewards more stewardship with more to steward.God is always more important than His more. Matthew 6:5-15 (NIV) 5 “And when you pray, do not be like the hypocrites, for they love to pray standing in the synagogues and on the street corners to be seen by others. Truly I tell you, they have received their reward in full. 6 But when you pray, go into your room, close the door and pray to your Father, who is unseen. Then your Father, who sees what is done in secret, will reward you. 7 And when you pray, do not keep on babbling like pagans, for they think they will be heard because of their many words. 8 Do not be like them, for your Father knows what you need before you ask him. 9 “This, then, is how you should pray: “‘Our Father in heaven, hallowed be your name, 10 your kingdom come, your will be done, on earth as it is in heaven. 11 Give us today our daily bread. 12 And forgive us our debts, as we also have forgiven our debtors.13 And lead us not into temptation, but deliver us from the evil one.' 14 For if you forgive other people when they sin against you, your heavenly Father will also forgive you. 15 But if you do not forgive others their sins, your Father will not forgive your sins.Slide (Build out this slide)The Lord's Prayer teaches us how to…V9. Posture ourselves in prayer. Honoring children approaching an honorable father. V10. Pray with trust, not angst. Your Kingdom and your will be done, not mine.V11.Ask for daily provision. Our Father is a stable & dependable provider. V12. To receive life through repentance/confession and give life through forgiveness.V13. Be situationally and spiritually alert. Our enemy is real but less than. Satan nor his schemes are any match for God's power or leadership. God > Satan. God in us > Satan against us.Luke 11:1-4 (NIV) One day Jesus was praying in a certain place. When he finished, one of his disciples said to him, “Lord, teach us to pray, just as John taught his disciples.” 2 He said to them, “When you pray, say:” ‘Father, hallowed be your name, your kingdom come. 3 Give us each day our daily bread. 4 Forgive us our sins, for we also forgive everyone who sins against us. And lead us not into temptation.'”Luke 11:5-10 (NIV)The Shaping Power of Persistence5 Then Jesus said to them, “Suppose you have a friend, and you go to him at midnight and say, ‘Friend, lend me three loaves of bread; 6 a friend of mine on a journey has come to me, and I have no food to offer him.' 7 And suppose the one inside answers, ‘Don't bother me. The door is already locked, and my children and I are in bed. I can't get up and give you anything.' 8 I tell you, even though he will not get up and give you the bread because of friendship, yet because of your shameless audacity he will surely get up and give you as much as you need. 9 “So I say to you: Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. 10 For everyone who asks receives; the one who seeks finds; and to the one who knocks, the door will be opened. Jesus teaches us to pray bold, shame-lessly persistent prayers, undeterred by “not now” answers. Luke 11:11-13 (NIV)The Scope of God's Provision11 “Which of you fathers, if your son asks for a fish, will give him a snake instead? 12 Or if he asks for an egg, will give him a scorpion? 13 If you then, though you are evil, know how to give good gifts to your children, how much more will your Father in heaven give the Holy Spirit to those who ask him!”Our “Much More” Father doesn't give us “one time” things, He gives us the all-time Holy Spirit. The Lord's Prayer teaches us how to…V9. Posture ourselves in prayer. Honoring children approaching an honorable father. V10. Pray with trust, not angst. Your Kingdom and your will be done, not mine.V11.Ask for daily provision. Our Father is a stable & dependable provider. V12. To receive life through repentance/confession and give life through forgiveness.V13. Be situationally and spiritually alert. Our enemy is real but less than. Satan nor his schemes are any match for God's power or leadership. God > Satan. God in us > Satan against us.Jesus teaches us to be boldly persistent in our asks and supremely confident in the God of our ask. He teaches us not give up in the gap between ask and answer, but to triple down on an immeasurably more Father.Praying more for more.1. I don't know how to pray. Taste and see that the Lord is good; blessed is the one who takes refuge in him. Psalm 34:8 2. I don't feel worthy enough to pray. Our goodness is not the qualification for the relationship or the path of connection, God's goodness is. Our performance isn't what earns us an audience, it is our repentance and humility. Your feelings of unworthiness are attached to spiritual lies which are holding you captive. Freedom comes through a relationship with Christ cultivated in prayer. 3. I don't have time to pray. “The neglect of private prayer is the most common reason people lose their faith.” John Wesley“If you are too busy to pray then you are too busy!” Mother Theresa to an Indian Bishop who claimed he was so busy his schedule was squeezing out his prayer time. “I have so much to do that I shall spend the first 3 hours in prayer.” Martin Luther when was asked what his plans were for the day.Prayer isn't a check box it is the box the checks all other boxes. Pastor Charlie
Predicazione espositiva del Pastore Jonathan Whitman di Matteo capitolo 3 versetti da 13 a 17. Registrata presso il Centro Evangelico Battista di Perugia il 24 Novembre 2024.Titolo del messaggio: "Tre modi sorprendenti in cui il nostro Re è diverso da tutti gli altri re"MATTEO 3 V13-1713 Allora Gesù dalla Galilea si recò al Giordano da Giovanni per essere da lui battezzato. 14 Ma questi vi si opponeva dicendo: «Sono io che ho bisogno di essere battezzato da te, e tu vieni da me?» 15 Ma Gesù gli rispose: «Sia così ora, poiché conviene che noi adempiamo in questo modo ogni giustizia». Allora Giovanni lo lasciò fare. 16 Gesù, appena fu battezzato, salì fuori dall'acqua; ed ecco i cieli si aprirono ed egli vide lo Spirito di Dio scendere come una colomba e venire su di lui. 17 Ed ecco una voce dai cieli che disse: «Questo è il mio diletto Figlio, nel quale mi sono compiaciuto».
aeropuertojazzcafe.com 1078 – V13/12/2024 - Joan Fort - Jazz Sabbath - Anne Drummond & Café - John Stowell & Atlantic Bridge Trio - Quincy Jones - Sacri Delfino ENLACES DE AUDIO EN NUESTRA WEB y en esferajazz.com #jazz #podcast #aeropuertojazzcafé EN FM CANARIAS: 7.7 Radio Gran Canaria Radio Sol Maspalomas Radio Insular de Lanzarote Radio Sintonia Fuerteventura Onda Aguere Radio Geneto Radio Tiempo Tenerife Laguna FM .
On the night of Friday, 13 November 2015, three suicide bombers blew themselves up outside the Stade de France during a football match between France and Germany, attended by President François Hollande. By 1am the next morning, 130 victims were dead, and 416 others were injured, many critically. Seven attackers were killed, and two more died in a shootout with police days later.In September 2021, nearly six years later, the trial of 20 men accused of involvement in the attacks began in a specially built courtroom near the Palais de Justice. Fourteen were present, six tried in absentia, and only one, Salah Abdeslam, had directly participated in the attacks. The others were involved in planning, logistics, or assisting the terrorists. With many defendants refusing to testify and the trial featuring mostly secondary figures, some doubted whether it would be meaningful. However, in V13, Emmanuel Carrère's gripping account, it becomes clear that the trial was far from a failure. As he writes, it became "a unique experience of horror, pity, proximity and presence.” The book, based on Carrère's weekly dispatches for L'Obs, immerses readers in the trial, offering a vivid, firsthand perspective of this historic event.Buy V13: https://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/books/v13*Emmanuel Carrère, novelist, filmmaker, journalist, and biographer, is the award-winning internationally renowned author of The Adversary (a New York Times Notable Book), Lives Other Than My Own, My Life As A Russian Novel, Class Trip, Limonov and The Mustache.Adam Biles is Literary Director at Shakespeare and Company. His latest novel, Beasts of England, a to Animal Farm, is available now. Buy a signed copy here: https://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/books/beasts-of-englandListen to Alex Freiman's latest EP, In The Beginning: https://open.spotify.com/album/5iZYPMCUnG7xiCtsFCBlVa?si=h5x3FK1URq6SwH9Kb_SO3w Get bonus content on Patreon Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Aujourd'hui, je partage avec vous mes lectures marquantes de l'année, autour des thématiques de l'enquête et du renseignement. Parmi mes découvertes, "Noor" d'Étienne Barilier raconte l'histoire vraie de Noor Inayat Khan, une opératrice radio des services secrets britanniques sous l'Occupation. Ce récit de courage m'a profondément touchée.Dans un registre différent, "Il faut toujours envisager le débâcle" de Laurent Rivelaygue, inspiré de l'affaire du Grêlé, propose une fiction drôle et cynique, tandis que "D'argent et de sang" de Fabrice Arfi explore l'escroquerie à la taxe carbone avec une minutie passionnante. J'ai aussi apprécié "Tokyo Détective", qui plonge dans les enquêtes d'un journaliste devenu détective privé au Japon.Côté justice, "La Mère Diabolique" de Prune Antoine propose une analyse profonde sur un fait divers tragique et le système pénal. En revanche, "Le Témoin" de Joy Sorman m'a déçue, manquant de profondeur face au potentiel de son sujet.Enfin, "V13" d'Emmanuel Carrère revient sur le procès des attentats du 13 novembre 2015, un récit poignant mêlant témoignages de victimes et attitudes des accusés.Ces lectures, entre fiction et réalité, offrent une plongée fascinante dans l'univers des enquêtes, avec des réflexions sur la justice et le courage humain.Abonnez-vous : ➡️ Apple Podcast https://apple.co/3Es4SVH➡️ Spotify https://spoti.fi/3JbiQ1T ➡️ Deezer https://bit.ly/3elvbCG ➡️ Podcast Addict https://bit.ly/3ekYPIc ➡️ Sur le site de l'agence de détective privé MilleniumTous les anciens épisodes sont ici.Hébergé par Ausha. Visitez ausha.co/politique-de-confidentialite pour plus d'informations.
This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119. That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it was amazing and will set the stage for this follow-up episode.It's only been a month since Melina last came on, but in that month she won US Nationals, both in Lead and Bouldering, and did so for the second year in a row. Yes, in 2023 she won Lead and Bouldering and in 2024 she AGAIN won Lead and Bouldering! On top of that she won multiple high level local comps this month and found the time to go outside and do a slew of double digit boulders. One of which was a near flash of a V13 (she still sent 2nd go)!Melina is incredibly articulate and insightful on the intricacies of performing at the highest level of competition. In the last episode she detailed her training leading into Nationals, and since she had such a stellar performance we wanted to sit down and explore exactly how that training turned into perfect execution.Don't miss this one… These two pods together are not just a 2x, it's squared. (Ya, that's a lame joke, but it's true.)SHOW NOTES:Melina Costanza's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/melinacostanza/Melina's previous Testpiece Podcast, #1192024 Double Gold ChampV13 Second GoSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Adam Shahar is the name that keeps coming up when I ask who is an up and coming star. At 18 he had a breakout year where he won bouldering nationals, climbed V15 in a few sessions while he was on the road doing WC's, and then became IFSC's Athlete of the Week when he narrowly missed finals with a 7th place finish at the Prague WC. He also had perhaps the most incredible board climbing session of all time where he did 5 V13's on the Tension TB2, flashing 1 of them and doing 2 of them second try… Adam is known to be one of the physically strongest climbers in the world, and in this episode he shares his ‘hot take' on how to train for World Cups.Adam also dives into how he's leveled up his mental game recently which he credits a lot of his recent success to. This is an awesome episode with someone you need to keep an eye on!SHOW NOTES:Adam's InstagramAdam climbing The Understanding (V15)Adam's epic Tension TB2 SessionIFSC Athlete of the WeekTransience (V14)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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스포츠 타임라인 -‘중동 원정 2연전'홍명보호 주장 손흥민 복귀…김경민·김봉수·이태석·이현주 합류…부상 중인 황희찬은 탈락 -최정, FA로 초대형 계약 맺을듯…SSG “모레 계약 확정 목표” -쇼트트랙 최민정 500m, 김길리 1500m 나란히 은메달 -북한, U-17 여자 월드컵서 승부차기 끝에 스페인 꺾고 우승 스트라이크존 -2024 한국시리즈 결산 -KIA 우승 원동력..감독+선수+프런트 삼위일체의 힘 -2009년 KS 엔트리 탈락했던 '작은 거인' 김선빈, 15년 뒤 MVP -정회열·정해영, 31년 건너 ‘타이거즈 父子 우승' 새 역사 -벌써 V13 준비 들어갔다...'코치 영입→이범호 감독 재계약' KIA, 오키나와 마무리 캠프 진행 -'2025 FA' 장현식·임기영에 서건창까지?…지갑 여는 KIA, 내부 단속 넘어 '외부 선발' 영입 가능할까 -KBO, FA 자격 선수 명단 공시… 6일부터 본격적으로 협상 개시 -“6일 계약 후 발표” 최정 ‘일단' FA 된다…개장 첫날 ‘1호 계약' 예약 -어떤 팀이 큰손? 가장 분주해질 팀은? 출연: 류선규 야구해설가 (前SSG단장) 김효경 기자(중앙일보) 진행: 한상헌 아나운서
Predicazione espositiva del Pastore Jonathan Whitman di Matteo capitolo 2 versetti da 13 a 23. Registrata presso il Centro Evangelico Battista di Perugia il 20 Ottobre 2024.Titolo del messaggio: "Quando la vita sembra fuori controllo, dov'è Dio?"MATTEO 2 V13-2313 Dopo che furono partiti, un angelo del Signore apparve in sogno a Giuseppe e gli disse: «Àlzati, prendi il bambino e sua madre, fuggi in Egitto e restaci finché io non te lo dico; perché Erode sta per cercare il bambino per farlo morire». 14 Egli dunque si alzò, prese di notte il bambino e sua madre, e si ritirò in Egitto. 15 Là rimase fino alla morte di Erode, affinché si adempisse quello che fu detto dal Signore per mezzo del profeta: «Fuori d'Egitto chiamai mio figlio».16 Allora Erode, vedendosi beffato dai magi, si adirò moltissimo, e mandò a uccidere tutti i maschi che erano in Betlemme e in tutto il suo territorio dall'età di due anni in giù, secondo il tempo del quale si era esattamente informato dai magi. 17 Allora si adempì quello che era stato detto per bocca del profeta Geremia: 18 «Un grido si è udito in Rama,un pianto e un lamento grande:Rachele piange i suoi figlie rifiuta di essere consolata,perché non sono più».19 Dopo la morte di Erode, un angelo del Signore apparve in sogno a Giuseppe, in Egitto, e gli disse: 20 «Àlzati, prendi il bambino e sua madre, e va' nel paese d'Israele; perché sono morti coloro che cercavano di uccidere il bambino». 21 Egli, alzatosi, prese il bambino e sua madre, e rientrò nel paese d'Israele. 22 Ma, udito che in Giudea regnava Archelao al posto di Erode, suo padre, ebbe paura di andare là; e, avvertito in sogno, si ritirò nella regione della Galilea, 23 e venne ad abitare in una città detta Nazaret, affinché si adempisse quello che era stato detto dai profeti, che egli sarebbe stato chiamato Nazareno.
HERALDING THE GOSPEL 1 Corinthians 15:3–11 (ESV) — 3 For I delivered to you as of first importance what I also received: that Christ died for our sins in accordance with the Scriptures, 4 that he was buried, that he was raised on the third day in accordance with the Scriptures Colossians 1:24–29 (ESV) — 24 Now I rejoice in my sufferings for your sake, and in my flesh I am filling up what is lacking in Christ's afflictions for the sake of his body, that is, the church, 25 of which I became a minister according to the stewardship from God that was given to me for you, to make the word of God fully known, 26 the mystery hidden for ages and generations but now revealed to his saints. 27 To them God chose to make known how great among the Gentiles are the riches of the glory of this mystery, which is Christ in you, the hope of glory. 28 Him we proclaim, warning everyone and teaching everyone with all wisdom, that we may present everyone mature in Christ. 29 For this I toil, struggling with all his energy that he powerfully works within me. Matthew 28:18–20 (ESV) — 18 And Jesus came and said to them, “All authority in heaven and on earth has been given to me. 19 Go therefore and make disciples of all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy Spirit, 20 teaching them to observe all that I have commanded you. And behold, I am with you always, to the end of the age.” PRAYER FOR HOW WE HERALD THE GOSPEL! Colossians 4:2–4 (ESV) — 2 Continue steadfastly in prayer, being watchful in it with thanksgiving. 3 At the same time, pray also for us, that God may open to us a door for the word, to declare the mystery of Christ, on account of which I am in prison— 4 that I may make it clear, which is how I ought to speak. Ephesians 6:18–20 (ESV) — 18 praying at all times in the Spirit, with all prayer and supplication. To that end, keep alert with all perseverance, making supplication for all the saints, 19 and also for me, that words may be given to me in opening my mouth boldly to proclaim the mystery of the gospel, 20 for which I am an ambassador in chains, that I may declare it boldly, as I ought to speak. EQUIPPING THE SAINTS Ephesians 4:11–16 (ESV) — 11 And he gave the apostles, the prophets, the evangelists, the shepherds and teachers, 12 to equip the saints for the work of ministry, for building up the body of Christ, 13 until we all attain to the unity of the faith and of the knowledge of the Son of God, to mature manhood, to the measure of the stature of the fullness of Christ, 14 so that we may no longer be children, tossed to and fro by the waves and carried about by every wind of doctrine, by human cunning, by craftiness in deceitful schemes. 15 Rather, speaking the truth in love, we are to grow up in every way into him who is the head, into Christ, 16 from whom the whole body, joined and held together by every joint with which it is equipped, when each part is working properly, makes the body grow so that it builds itself up in love. IN CHRIST WE ALL DO THE WORK OF MINISTRY AS HIS BODY! (V11-12) - Leaders equip (Titus 1:9) - All the saints do the work of ministry - All saints build up the body (More in two weeks – Discipleship in community) IN CHRIST WE ALL MATURE TOGETHER AS HIS BODY! (V13-15) - Building until we attain: unity of faith, knowledge of Christ, maturity to fulness of Christ. - No longer tossed but tethered to Christ our head through the truth in love IN CHRIST WE ALL GROW WHEN WE EACH WORK PROPERLY (V16) - Each purposed to work to grow one another in the love of Christ.
aeropuertojazzcafe.com 1013 - V13/09/2024 - Adrian Herrera Trio - Luther Allison - Enrico Pieranunzi - Matyas Gayer Trio - Julius Rodriguez ENLACES DE AUDIO EN NUESTRA WEB y en esferajazz.com #jazz #podcast #aeropuertojazzcafé EN FM CANARIAS: 7.7 Radio Gran Canaria Radio Sol Maspalomas Radio Insular de Lanzarote Radio Sintonia Fuerteventura Onda Aguere Radio Geneto Radio Tiempo Tenerife Laguna FM .
In this episode Al Fadi answers the question on his Facebook page; Alfadi.cira, " If Mohammad is a prophet like Moses why did he violate the Sabbath". Mohammad acknowledged in Sura 4:154 that the Sabbath was not to be violated . In Hadith Al Bukhari B2,V13:1,21, Mohammad did not honor the Sabbath, but introduced his own holy day; Friday, thus dishonoring the Sabbath . Therefore he is not a prophet like Moses.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna's upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie's Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up
Greg Loh was one of the strongest boulders in the world during the mid 90's and early 00's. He traveled all over the world putting up FA's of V13+ and climbing with the best. He competed in WC's, the X-Games, and even won Nationals twice for speed climbing. He is known for being one of the first people who truly embraced bouldering as a discipline in itself. This is back when bouldering was extra dangerous due to the lack of pads and Greg has 9 broken ankles to prove it! This also lead him to be known as perhaps the world's best spotter, a job he took extremely seriously and caused at least 1 of those ankle breaks! Greg also brought an aggression and intensity into climbing that hadn't been seen before. His background in football and weightlifting, as well as larger than normal size, came out as an intense try hard that is now synonymous with hard climbing. Greg was the bouldering buddy you always wanted — strong enough to catch you on a big fall, committed enough to do so, and his infectious aggression brought out the intensity you needed to send. SHOW NOTES: Greg on an easy lap of Midnight Lightning V8Peak Performance bookText the show! (ps -- it won't let us reply, it you want a reply, email hi@testpiececlimbing.com)Support the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
durée : 00:37:19 - France Culture va plus loin (l'Invité(e) des Matins) - par : Quentin Lafay - A l'occasion des commémorations de la Victoire du 8 mai 1945, nous vous proposons de revenir ce matin sur la dimension politique des films de guerre pendant la deuxième moitié du XXe siècle. - invités : Sylvie Lindeperg Historienne, spécialiste de la seconde guerre mondiale et de l'histoire du cinéma. Professeure à l'université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne. Membre du groupe de recherche V13 sur les archives audiovisuelles du procès des attentats du 13 novembre 2015.
Predicazione espositiva del Pastore Emerito Fred Whitman di Filippesi 3 versetti da 13 a 14. Registrata presso il Centro Evangelico Battista di Perugia il 25 febbraio 2024.Titolo del messaggio: "Dimenticando le cose che stanno indietro, corriamo verso la meta'".FILIPPESI 3 V13-1413 Fratelli, io non ritengo di averlo già afferrato; ma una cosa faccio: dimenticando le cose che stanno dietro e protendendomi verso quelle che stanno davanti, 14 corro verso la mèta per ottenere il premio della celeste vocazione di Dio in Cristo Gesù.
Enio Augusto e Marcos Buosi falam sobre tudo que envolve o mundo dos tênis e também de outros acessórios relacionados à corrida. Tem análise, reviews, dicas, palpites, questionamentos, opinião, informação, mercado, números, valores, dúvidas, respostas e muito mais. Participe enviando a sua pergunta. Escute, informe-se e divirta-se. Participação especial de Camila Rosa. Falamos tudo sobre o New Balance 1080 V13. SEJA MEMBRO DO CANAL NO YOUTUBE DO PFC
durée : 00:43:09 - Signes des temps - par : Marc Weitzmann - Alors que le nouveau film de Jonathan Glazer "La Zone d'intérêt" est sorti en salle le 31 janvier, Signes des temps interroge la mise en scène, la puissance et les ambivalences du dispositif choisi, dans ce film où le camp d'extermination jouxte la maison de famille d'un dignitaire nazi. - invités : Sylvie Lindeperg Historienne, spécialiste de la seconde guerre mondiale et de l'histoire du cinéma. Professeure à l'université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne. Membre du groupe de recherche V13 sur les archives audiovisuelles du procès des attentats du 13 novembre 2015.; Ophir Lévy Maître de conférences en Études cinématographiques à l'Université Paris 8 - Vincennes-Saint-Denis.; Michaël Prazan Écrivain, réalisateur, documentariste
In this episode Al Fadi answers the question on his Facebook page; Alfadi.cira, " If Mohammad is a prophet like Moses why did he violate the Sabbath". Mohammad acknowledged in Sura 4:154 that the Sabbath was not to be violated . In Hadith Al Bukhari B2,V13:1,21, Mohammad did not honor the Sabbath, but introduced his own holy day; Friday, thus dishonoring the Sabbath . Therefore he is not a prophet like Moses.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Fred Nicole was never simply an athlete. He was an artist. Coming into bouldering via a different direction than you might think, Fred Nicole did indeed create art. Really, really difficult art. First, La Danse des Balrogs, the worlds first V13. But that merely opened a door to new possibilities. Moving in his singular style, he sought out new challenges, new boulders on which to be tested. Or was it the other way around? Was he the one doing the testing? After all, what is art if it isn't interrogating the impossible and celebrating the imagination? And where La Danse had traversed, there was another line, beckoning for Fred to go up. A harder line. Radja, the King. Check out more here! ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone
Broadway star Andrew Keenan-Bolger (Newsies) joins The Art of Kindness with Robert Peterpaul to discuss his new show Dracula: A Comedy of Terrors, acts of kindness in the theatre, navigating social media as an artist and much more. More about ANDREW KEENAN BOLGER: Broadway: Jesse Tuck in Tuck Everlasting (Drama League Award nominee), Crutchie in Newsies (Outer Critics Circle nominee), Mary Poppins, Seussical, Beauty and the Beast, A Christmas Carol. 1st Nat'l Tours: Spelling Bee, How The Grinch Stole Christmas. Off-Broadway: Seven Deadly Sins. TV: The Undoing, The Blacklist, The Other Two, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, Nurse Jackie, Looking. Film: The Rewrite, Marci X, Upcoming: On Swift Horses, V13. Co-creator of the series Submissions Only. Co-author of the book series Jack & Louisa (Penguin Random House). @KeenanBlogger More about "DRACULA, THE PODCASTULA": Broadway Podcast Network has launched Broadway's first ever weekly companion podcast, “Dracula, The Podcastula,” hosted by Andrew Keenan-Bolger. A first of its kind for theater, this companion podcast allows fans to uncover behind-the-scenes content about the creation of a Broadway show, and the ever-changing life on stage in New York. Episodes will cover topics including navigating the 8 show-a-week grind, the actors maintaining their humor, keeping the show fresh, on and off stage mishaps, questions from fans, and more. The podcast was developed by Keenan-Bolger and Broadway Podcast Network co-founder and CTO, Alan Seales. Follow Andrew: @keenanblogger Follow us: @artofkindnesspod / @robpeterpaul Support the show! (https://www.buymeacoffee.com/theaok) Music: "Awake" by Ricky Alvarez & "Sunshine" by Lemon Music Studio. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Chaque semaine dans Transfert, nous vous faisons découvrir des histoires d'inconnus, des récits inédits qui vous surprennent, vous émeuvent ou vous révoltent.Aujourd'hui, nous vous proposons de revenir sur un événement que nous avons tous vécus, de près ou de loin, il y a huit ans. C'était un 13 novembre. La France assistait sidérée à la pire attaque terroriste de son histoire. Aucun d'entre nous n'a oublié ce soir-là, la douleur de tout un pays, les vies brisées de centaines de victimes. Après le temps du deuil et du recueillement est venu celui de la justice. Dans le podcast V13, Théo Ivanez et Vincent Nouzille retracent l'enquête tentaculaire pour identifier les coupables et racontent les préparatifs du plus grand procès pour terrorisme. Victimes, magistrats, policiers, avocats, journalistes, responsables politiques, livrent tour à tour leur témoignage sur cette nuit tragique et ses conséquences. Des premières menaces au procès, plongez au cœur de l'enquête des attentats du 13 novembreLa série est à retrouver en intégralité sur Apple Podcasts et sur Spotify.V13, le procès des attentats est un podcast Docurama coproduit par Initial Studio et KUIV, adapté de la série documentaire audiovisuelle "V13" co-produite par KUIV et LCP, écrite et réalisée par Théo Ivanez et Vincent Nouzille.
Mat Wright has quickly established himself as one of the best trad climbers in Britain and is a world-class all-rounder having climbed E11, 5.14c, and V15. We talked about his humble beginnings in low-income government housing, teaching himself how to rope solo as a teenager, reaching V13 and 5.14c in his first three years of climbing, pivoting to hardcore trad climbing, his upcoming film in the Brit Rock Film Tour, and much more!Get Your Tickets for Brit Rock! (Streaming Nov 9-13)britrockfilmtour.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wrightNuggets:0:05:35 – Why Mat wears sunglasses when he climbs0:07:02 – Mat's difficult upbringing, and growing up in a council estate (low-income government housing)0:11:41 – Meeting his dad at 13 and moving in with him, and how Mat got himself into rock climbing0:15:47 – Building a board in his mom's back garden, and sending 8c+ and 8B (5.14c and V13) within his first 3 years of climbing0:17:21 – What climbing brought to Mat's life0:19:51 – Neil Gresham's masterclass videos, and setting his eyes on Hubble0:23:13 – Sending Hubble, and the negative side of punching the clock on projects0:29:39 – Being optimistic, and why Mat resonates with hard scary trad climbing0:32:39 – The line between optimism vs. recklessness0:35:17 – How Mat “caught up” with his education, and the appeal of climbing for someone with a busy mind0:39:39 – Mat's partner Anna Taylor, and her role in The House of the Gods film (I said Argentina but it was in Venezuela)0:41:37 – Coasteering with Anna0:45:40 – Wildlife, nerding out, and how he and Anna relax0:47:28 – Living in a van, fingerboarding, and going with the flow with his climbing0:49:25 – Sprinting toward a goal, and spending 60-70% of his time chilling0:54:34 – What Mat's training looked like early on, how it's evolved over time, and addressing specific weaknesses0:57:34 – Understanding your climbing pace, and the dance of sport climbing1:00:24 – How Mat guides his clients with their climbing pace1:06:19 – Our tendance to overthink things, and not believe in ourselves1:08:29 – The power of specific goals, and asking yourself what you really want to get out of climbing1:12:35 – Balancing short-term and long-term goals1:16:51 – How to get coaching from Mat1:18:21 – Climbing his first V15 shortly after Hubble, and pivoting to trad and sending Lexicon E111:23:03 – The reaction to him sending Lexicon1:26:27 – Feeling desensitized to exposure, and early free soloing1:28:24 – The effect that online comments have on real people1:32:31 – Our brains' negative bias, and trolling as an outlet for frustration1:35:21 – Anna's harassment, and Mat's controversial reputation1:40:29 – What happens when you respond to negative comments with kindness1:42:36 – Stepping into a protective role for his partner, and losing his sponsors1:44:29 – Mat as a Berghaus athlete1:49:19 – Mat's film ‘Hard Git' in the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour1:55:49 – A deep dive into Mat's FA of Magical Thinking E10, and finding flow on the send2:01:13 – Mat's FA of Black Thistle E10, and converting E grades to the American YDS grades2:04:04 – The animalistic nature of trad, why the Brits don't bolt everything, and the American healthcare system2:07:35 – Challenge vs. difficulty2:10:26 – James Pearson as the best trad climber in the world, and Mat's kinship to Dave MacLeod2:12:25 – Mat and I each talk about our experiences trying the keto diet2:16:18 – I recap my story with disordered eating and recovery, and Mat describes his experience with burnout after Hubble2:22:05 – What happened with Rhapsody, and his thoughts on returning2:27:21 – Mat's rope solo setup2:29:43 – Go-to music2:30:15 – Mat's dream climbing expedition, the adventure and fun of climbing, and sending Gaia E82:34:46 – Think more about yourself and less about other people2:35:44 – Cycle touring, and Mat's thoughts on taking long breaks from climbing2:42:36 – Where to connect with Mat, and details about the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour
Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself to the breaking point to send V14, seriously injuring his knee, working with Ollie Torr to overhaul his style and become stronger than ever, the keys to a balanced and happy life, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PutaShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bialeNuggets:0:05:34 – Steak and wine0:06:16 – Alex's connection to the Jon Glassberg and Ollie Torr episodes0:07:37 – Alex's upbringing in Napa, his family legacy of bootlegging wine, and the origin story of Black Chicken0:12:21 – Working in the vineyard as a kid, and growing up surrounded by family0:15:36 – Alex's dad, and doing family backpacking trips to Tahoe0:20:02 – Getting into climbing0:21:59 – Parallels to the Josh Champion episode, looking up to CA climbers, getting into highballing, and putting V13 and V1 4 on a pedestal0:31:01 – Training with Jon Glassberg0:35:11 – Sending Mind to Motion V14, breaking from the training, and feeling lost after achieving his goal0:39:59 – Climbing classic V8s in Leavenworth, rediscovering his love for climbing, and adopting a beginners mindset0:47:58 – History, aesthetics, the amount of climbing in CO, and redefining challenge0:51:56 – Desiring to become a well-rounded climber0:58:23 – What gets people stuck, and being honest about what you want from climbing1:03:20 – Combining strengths and weaknesses1:09:32 – The perfect storm of training with Jon1:13:20 – Playing the long game, and drawing inspiration from Martin Keller1:17:33 – Why you shouldn't train like a pro climber (unless you're a pro climber)1:22:50 – The advice Alex got from Will Anglin, and climbing with rules1:34:42 – Why Alex hired Ollie Torr to coach him1:45:43 – What's different about training with Ollie on a principle level1:52:24 – Injurying his knee, and transforming his climbing style2:00:26 – The keys to staying consistent with climbing and training, and the value of a spray wall2:16:12 – The keys to staying on top of things at work, and Alex's business ventures2:23:47 – Carrying a load, hitting rock bottom, and adding value2:31:26 – The keys to maintaining a healthy relationship2:37:59 – Wrap up, and very kind words from Alex about the podcast
Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16's, flashed multiple V13's, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you've probably never heard of him because he's not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated, and his 8a scorecard is pseudonymous.And yes, Andy and Katie Lamb are brother and sister!Hear Andy's unique path in climbing that is more relatable than other V16 climbers.SHOW NOTES:Paradox of Choice"Most people overestimate what they can do in 1 year and underestimate what they can do in 10 years." -- Bill Gates / Andy LambSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-championNuggets:0:03:51 – Intermittent fasting, Josh's “salad”, and diet soda in the morning0:07:15 – Reminiscing about the 2017 Bishop trip, Josh's send of Mandala, and clarifying the timing of my journey with disordered eating0:12:07 – What happened to Josh after the 2017 trip, and moving to Colorado for residency0:17:55 – How the pandemic affected his work, and sending his first three V13s0:19:28 – Putting V13 on a pedestal0:23:51 – Expectations vs reality of achieving a goal0:26:21 – Delayed gratification vs learning how to enjoy the process0:27:52 – Josh and I explore what drives us to pursue goals, and pure inspiration vs seeking approval from others0:33:41 – Why Josh quit climbing0:36:16 – What it felt like to quit, filling the gap, and creating BetaCache0:42:35 – Finding a new physical outlet, and his mindset shift after being away from climbing0:47:27 – Discovering who you are without climbing0:49:34 – Not missing climbing, Josh's antagonistic climbing friendship, and being free from comparison0:52:48 – What brought him back to climbing0:55:41 – Working on his relationship with climbing1:01:14 – The Zen of Climbing1:07:22 – Inner balance and friction1:09:48 – Feeling cautious but optimistic, and shifting the emphasis1:11:52 – Trying Woods Climb in Red Rocks, and plans for his upcoming trip to Moe's Valley1:16:34 – Meeting Jonathan Siegrist, starting to climb because we enjoyed it, and when that shifted for Josh1:23:43 – Seeking challenge is healthy until you start putting numbers on it1:27:44 – Treating climbing like a martial art or a craft1:30:28 – Finding satisfaction and accomplishment in the process1:31:44 – Josh's thoughts about trying hard projects in the future1:34:29 – Letting go of needing to check climbs off the list1:37:27 – What inner work looks like, and Josh's claim to fame1:41:31 – The value of learning lessons the hard way1:44:19 – Realizing you are not alone1:45:54 – Why Josh created BetaCache, and the updated version JustBeta.net
How hard or how easy is it for you to live this encouragement out in real life? Do you ever feel overwhelmed by a troubled world or your own difficulties? Have you ever found yourself frustrated by verses like the one above because, try as you may to believe, your troubles seem relentless? I know I certainly have.We're going to be reading John 14:1-14 this Sunday, where Jesus issues the directions quoted above. It is couched in the section commonly called “Jesus' farewell address to his disciples”. Judas has gone out to betray Jesus to the authorities and Jesus has made it clear that he will soon be gone from them. All in all, the evening has really turned into a bummer. Can you imagine the distress and confusion that is beginning to mount in the midst of this group?So Jesus gives direction – truth to calm their troubled hearts. His encouragement isn't given in a promise to make all the troubles go away – but rather, in providing a fresh perspective from which to view the looming wave of adversity.This section is interesting because it contains three familiar passages that have often been isolated and often misperceived. Something we'll take a look at as we go on Sunday.Jesus' first encouragement is a promise about his Father's big, big house, with lots and lots of room (if you were a Christian youth in the 90's, you're welcome for the ear worm that should be playing in your head right about now). We mostly take this as a picture of heaven, which I think the idea may include, but it has more a sense of the bigger picture of redemption, which is unfolding right now in our lives. How does thinking about the way that God redeems broken things provide a sense of encouragement and assurance in times of trouble?This section also contains another of Jesus' clear self-identifications as being united with God the Father. To see Jesus is to see what God is like. To trust in Jesus is to find the way home to God. Jesus actually promotes an intentional trust; “DON'T let your hearts be troubled” – don't live there, don't form your identity from your difficulties. Instead, we're called to trust Jesus in an act of our will. What are some ways we can intentionally trust Jesus when all hell is breaking loose? Can you identify ways in which that intentional trust would promote assurance in your heart?V13-14 are problematic verses in this section, in that they have inspired a certain level of materialism within one section of the church which tends to leverage Jesus' words to name and claim good fortune for themselves. What might it mean to ask for something in Jesus' name? Is that a magic incantation, or the html tag needed to close a heavenly code….or something else entirely? If someone requested something at your workplace in your name, what would that mean? How might the promise of Jesus' authority on earth bring us assurance in times of difficulty?I'm looking forward to exploring these verses together – I hope you can join us!Click here for a pdf version of the teaching slideshow.
Andrew Keenan-Bolger is an actor, author, director & producer who is known for his starring roles on Broadway in Disney's Newsies, Mary Poppins & Tuck Everlasting. After a little bit of time away, Andrew is back on the New York stage sinking his teeth into the Off-Broadway comedy, Dracula A Comedy Of Terrors.In this interview, Andrew is Baring It All with Call Me Adam about:Auditioning for Dracula A Comedy Of TerrorsStage MishapsWhat he still wants to take a bite out of in lifeSucking bloodHaving his "Sandy" moment from the movie GreaseSo much moreMore on Andrew Keenan-Bolger:Broadway: Jesse Tuck in Tuck Everlasting (Drama League Award nominee), Crutchie in Newsies (Outer Critics Circle nominee), Mary Poppins, Seussical, Beauty and the Beast, A Christmas Carol. 1st Nat'l Tours: Spelling Bee, How The Grinch Stole Christmas. Off-Broadway: Seven Deadly Sins. TV: The Undoing, The Blacklist, The Other Two, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, Nurse Jackie, Looking. Film: The Rewrite, Marci X, Upcoming: On Swift Horses, V13. Co-creator of the series Submissions Only. Co-author of the book series Jack & Louisa (Penguin Random House).Special Thanks:Brett Oberman, Keith Sherman and AssociatesTheme Song by Bobby CroninPodcast Logo by Liam O'DonnellEdited by Adam RothenbergConnect with Me:Website: www.callmeadam.comFacebook: @CallMeAdamNYCInstagram: @CallMeAdamNYCMentioned in this episode:GME (Good Morning Entrepreneurs) CommericalI want to tell you a personal behind the curtain story that I may not have fully shared here. For the past two years, I have been part of an amazing community built for and by entrepreneurs called My Sexy Business. We have a wonderful weekly live streaming show called GME (Good Morning Entrepreneurs). As an Associate Producer and Roving Reporter, I can easily say this show is for you, the entrepreneur who is in search of community and getting your questions answered. Our Co-Hosts and Roving Reporters share life experiences that will hopefully make you feel less alone on your entrepreneurial journey. We'd love for you to join us every Friday at 8 a. m. Eastern Standard Time at https://www.mysexybusiness.com/gme
Hablamos del escándalo de la app que desnuda a personas y que ha causado conmoción en un colegio de Almendralejo. También del futuro de The Line, el megaproyecto arquitectónico de Arabia Saudí y del palmarés del Festival de San Sebastián. En las pistas culturales hablamos de V13, Cerrar los ojos, Chinas y los cortos de Wes Anderson.
Schon beim Geruch der literarischen Vorspeise werden bei Jan Kindheitserinnerungen an den Besuch im Freibad wach - und an die Frage: Ketchup oder Mayo? Oder doch lieber beides? Die Bestsellerchallenge - V13 von Emanuel Carrère - lässt dagegen kaum Fragen offen und entpuppt sich für beide Hosts als große Überraschung. Und beim Besuch im Hamburger Büchercafé Kapitel 3 lernen Jan und Katharina, wozu ein BWL-Studium alles gut sein kann. Kommt vielleicht bald das erste eat.READ.sleep.-Bücherbistro? Literarisch geht es diesmal die Temperaturskala rauf und runter: Mit Büchern über laue Sommerabende und grönländische Einsamkeit. Und mit einem Roman, der fast 60 Jahre unentdeckt in einem Koffer gelegen hat. Die Bücher der Sendung: (00:05:49) Emmanuel Carrère: „V13 – die Terroranschläge in Paris“, Deutsch von Claudia Hamm (Matthes & Seitz) Dazu die SWR-Podcast-Serie in der ARD Audiothek: https://www.ardaudiothek.de/episode/swr2-hoerspiel/emmanuel-carrere-v13-1-8-der-erste-prozesstag/swr2/94727252/ (00:14:06) Arno Frank: „Seemann vom Siebener“ (Tropen) (00:22:33) David Santos Donaldson: „Grönland“, Deutsch von Joachim Bartholomae (Albino) (00:42:30) Irène Némirovsky: „Suite Française“, Deutsch von Eva Moldenhauer (btb) (00:41:17) Tipp aus dem Büchercafé Kapitel Drei: Gedichte von Lana Del Rey: „Violet Bent Backwards Over the Grass“ Das Rezept für Pommes Frites: Passend zum Buch "Seemann vom Siebener" gab es Pommes Frites - wer die nicht im Schwimmbad kaufen, sondern selbst machen will, findet hier ein Rezept: https://www.ndr.de/ratgeber/kochen/rezepte/Ofen-Pommes,rezept2636.html Alle Infos zum Podcast: https://ndr.de/eatreadsleep Alle Lesekreise: https://ndr.de/eatreadsleep-lesekreise Unseren Newsletter gibt es hier: https://ndr.de/eatreadsleep-newsletter Podcast-Tipp: „Sprechen wir über Mord“ https://1.ard.de/sprechen_wir_ueber_mord_cp eat.READ.sleep. ist der Bücherpodcast, der das Lesen feiert. Jan Ehlert, Daniel Kaiser und Katharina Mahrenholtz diskutieren über Bestseller, stellen aktuelle Romane vor und präsentieren die All Time Favorites der Community. Egal ob Krimis, Klassiker, Fantasy, Science Fiction, Kinder- und Jugendbücher, Urlaubsbücher, Gesellschafts- und Familienromane - hier hat jedes Buch seinen Platz. Und auch kulinarisch (literarische Vorspeise!) wird etwas geboten und beim Quiz am Ende können alle ihr Buch-Wissen testen und Fun Facts für den nächsten Smalltalk mitnehmen.
Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytisNuggets:0:05:26 – Exhales and accents0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining0:25:36 – ‘The End' 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool' 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty0:41:01 – Mattias' 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline' 7C+1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow' on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber1:57:46 – Wobblers2:03:34 – Ethan's punt on ‘Rodan' 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants2:11:21 – V14 goals2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties
Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you're given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you've become0:23:29 – I'm on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic's job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic's longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic's crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic's crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic's key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally's book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic's go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic's top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic's thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan's feelings1:42:41 – Nic's secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic's home wall, and why he doesn't like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn't recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul's land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he's changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic's brother, his siblings' climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic's send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up
Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellisNuggets:0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words0:06:39 – Jenn's gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn's Olympic aspirations in gymnastics0:19:26 – Setting the scene0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn's initial goals for her trip to Rocklands0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways0:48:00 – The climbers we've learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road1:08:28 – Jenn's lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle1:36:46 – Jenn's long-ass climbing warmup1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn's warmup1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate1:43:45 – Improving year on year1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn's role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents1:59:34 – Joe's Valley doughnuts2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes2:02:17 – Jenn's connection to Joe's Valley, and how she became a software engineer2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs2:06:31 – Hype music2:08:27 – Best decision she's ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about2:14:25 – Building out her van2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark
It's another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-bennNuggets:0:04:26 – Izzo's legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors0:14:47 – Charlie's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:19:06 – Adam's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:26:21 – The boys' skin0:29:22 – Noah's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:34:01 – Ben's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:37:20 – Charlie's coach role on the trip0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home0:40:46 – Noah's first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn's worn-out Nikes0:42:56 – Getting hooked0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte0:58:41 – Brother dynamics1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie's big win on Mooiste Meisei1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy's send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin' Large and The Finnish Line1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn's World Cup aspirations1:24:24 – Noah's finger strength1:26:16 – Board gods1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades1:37:38 – Noah's experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?1:42:43 – Adam's weaknesses1:43:26 – Noah's weaknesses1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses1:49:37 – Benn's weaknesses1:52:37 – Adam's proudest FAs1:54:14 – Noah's proudest FAs1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam1:57:34 – Benn's proudest FAs1:59:23 – Charlie's proudest FAs2:01:36 – Ethan's FA of Wet Dream when he was 172:06:29 – Ethan's proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop2:08:13 – Ethan's big wall FA in Greenland in 20122:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations2:19:24 – Three more goals each2:24:07 – Airstar2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands2:32:16 – These boys are the future
Praying in Jesus' Name John 14:13-14 June 25, 2023 I. Introduction: A. Prayer has been a gift that God has given man since the beginning of time. But in the upper room discourse Jesus introduces a dimension, an element to prayer, that is essential for his people to navigate life between the time Jesus returned to his Father and when Jesus comes back to receive us to himself. 1. It is a dimension of prayer that many of us do mindlessly as we repeat words that we really do not understand what they mean. 2. It is a dimension of prayer that explains for us why so many of our prayers go unanswered, but if we begin to practice it, we will see many more answers to our prayers. B. Please turn to John 14 where this new dimension to prayer is found. 1. We learned last week that the backdrop and driver to the discussion in the upper room discourse is Jesus' announcement that he is going to return to the Father and later come back for them. a) In this discourse are the essential things they needed to know while he was gone and they were apart from him 2. Then we come to the next section of this chapter where Jesus talks to them regarding his oneness with the Father. a) We are not going to cover this section this morning because a few weeks back when I introduced the book of John to us I had a complete message about Jesus' relationship with the Father as seen in the book of John. b) We learned that Jesus and the Father not only were close to one another but that Jesus was fully equal with and one with the Father. We see the same thing here again. c) If you were not here, I would encourage you to go to YouTube to view that. Even more importantly, this is not only a passage to reread but also one to memorize and meditate on! C. However, I am going to read this whole section this morning as a reminder to some of the important things we learned that morning and because right at the 2 end of it, Jesus speaks about this promise in prayer that we want to look at this morning! 1. Read v4-14. a) Note in v11-12 he speaks about if you do not believe me about what I am saying about my oneness with the Father and that Jesus dwells in the Father and the Father dwells in Jesus, then at least believe on account of the works you have seen me do. b) Then in v13-14, we see this prayer promise in this context. D. Overview of our key passage this morning is simply this: 1. V13 is the promise; v14 restates it in summary form. 2. In v13 we see three things: a) The content of our prayers b) How these prayers are answered c) And the motive to our prayers • This morning I want to break down this promise phrase by phrase because these twenty words are packed with millions upon millions of words worth of meaning, application and testimonies of its truthfulness for us! Let's start with the … II. Content to our prayers A. Reread v13a – emphasizing “whatever” B. This is an amazing promise – “whatever you ask!” Wow! 1. But to be honest with you there are many things I have asked God for that were never answered! 2. Can any of you relate to that? 3. If Jesus said that, then why is that the case? C. The next phrase explains for us why so many of our prayers are not answered. 1. Read 13a – emphasizing “in Jesus' name” 3 2. For most of us, we add on “in Jesus' name” at the end of our prayers as magical words that if we add them to our prayers then we will get what we want. 3. But here is the reality – “in Jesus' name” is the qualifier for whatever, it both limits the ” whatever” and enhances what “whatever” means. D. A name represents all of who someone is, along with their character, all they have, their rights, privileges and authority and even their reputation. 1. To do something in someone's name means you are doing something in behalf of that person as their official representative. E. Now when I connect along with limit and enhance the meaning of “whatever” with Jesus' name that means that I would be asking for the things that Jesus would ask for in this situation. They are things that are in line with his character and his agenda. F. Let me build on that a bit more by the context and a few other places this promise is repeated. 1. We already have seen in this passage that the context to this promise is doing the works of Jesus. a) So the first thing I would ask about my prayers is, are they not only consistent with what Jesus would ask but is it to further his work and kingdom or my own welfare? 2. Look at John 15:7 – read a) So here, we see that the “whatever” is in the context of those whose lives are filled with and controlled by God's Word. b) So I must ask are my prayers consistent with God's Word or even are my prayers driven by and full of God's Word 3. Read John 15:16 a) So here, we see that the “whatever” is in the context of bearing fruit for God, fruit that remains. b) So I must ask, are my prayers consistent with the things that bear fruit for God? c) In a few weeks, we will spend a big portion of the message seeing what bearing fruit for God means. 4 4. John also wrote the book of 1 John and he addresses this same topic in 1 John 5:14-15. Read a) Here the anything and “whatever” is limited by God's will 5. So to be able to apply this promise and actually see answers to our prayers we must ask things that are in accordance with the character of Jesus, the work of Jesus, God's Word, bearing fruit for Jesus and according to God's will rather than just whatever we want! G. This has big implications for how we pray about the sick and about troubles both our own and the troubles of those we love. 1. Have you ever considered what we ask God for at those times? – usually it is for health and deliverance and God fixing things 2. How often have you considered how Jesus would pray for that situation – a great practice to do before you even pray? a) When we need healing, delivering or fixing Jesus might pray that: (1) He might even pray that our sickness or dying would bring glory to God rather than God would heal us. (2) We would endure these times in faith and gratitude before God. (3) Use these things and times to (a) Open doors to bring the gospel to the lost or model for the believer how Jesus would walk in these times (b) Make them more like Jesus (c) Teach them to rely upon his Spirit rather than themselves. H. Praying in Jesus name is more about praying for what Jesus wants than praying for what we want! It is praying as a representative of Jesus! It is asking what Jesus would ask for. It's prayers consistent with his heart for the things that he cares about. It is praying Jesus' heart for Jesus' work! • The second we see in this passage is … III. How these prayers are answered A. I am going to deal with the two other aspects of this verse much more quickly than the first. Reread v13b 5 B. Note here how the prayer is answered. Jesus says “and I will do it” – 1. Jesus is the one who answers our prayers; he does what we are asking for! 2. Seems so simple, clear and we say of course. But I believe that in most of our minds and practice we a) See our prayers as a means of God seasoning our efforts with his blessing as we go about what we are doing rather than expecting Jesus to do a miracle here. b) Like our prayers result in God pouring out of a saltshaker of blessing upon what we do. • The final part of this verse speaks about IV. The motive in our prayers A. Read v13c B. It is when the motives of our prayers are that God would be glorified that we see this promise go into operation. 1. Remember what James 4:2-3 says 2. Two reasons we are not experiencing the presence and power of God in our lives are because we are not asking God for things and secondly we are asking for things for our own benefit rather than God's glory C. Finally, in this part of the verse we get some insight into how God is glorified. 1. Many people think God is glorified by us doing things excellently. We should give our best of what we do out of our worship of God 2. But what brings God glory is when Jesus does something for and through us rather than what we do for God! 3. Note how 13b and c flow together. V. Conclusion A. So when you put your prayer life up against this passage how does it look? 1. Are you praying for what Jesus would want or what you would want? 2. Are you looking for Jesus to actually intervene in your life and do something or are you just hoping he will add his blessing to what you are doing? 6 3. Finally, are you asking God to do these things so he would be glorified or so your life would be more comfortable and happy? B. I would ask you in closing to consider something you have been praying about for a while that is just seems God is not answering it. 1. Consider what Jesus would pray about this situation in light of his character, his purposes, his work, his word, his will and his glory. 2. Start praying about it in that way and expect Jesus to show up and do things that only he can do.
Óscar Contardo nació en Curicó, Chile, en 1974). Estudió periodismo en la Universidad de Chile. Entre 1996 y 2010, trabajó en el suplemento “Artes y Letras”, de El Mercurio. Sus artículos han sido publicados en las revistas “Sábado” y en Gatopardo. Actualmente es columnista del diario La Tercera. Algunos de sus trabajos han sido incluidos en los libros Crónicas de carnaval (2006); Crónicas de otro planeta (2009); Las cien mejores crónicas de 2010 (2010); Los Malditos (2011) y Extremas (2019). Es coautor de La era ochentera: tevé, pop y under en el Chile de los ochentas (2005) y antologador de Volver a los 17, recuerdos de una generación en dictadura (2013). Ha publicado como autor los libros Siútico: arribismo, abajismo y vida social en Chile (2008); Raro: una historia gay de Chile (2011); Santiago Capital (2012); Luis Oyarzún: Un paseo con los dioses (2013); Rebaño (2018); Antes de que fuera octubre (2020), ganador del premio Mejores Obras Literarias del Ministerio de las Culturas y las Artes; y Clase media: un mito a la medida (2022) Contardo es el autor de otro libro reciente, Loca fuerte. Retrato de Pedro Lemebel (Ediciones UDP), biografía del legendario artista chileno, autor de la novela Tengo miedo torero y maestro de cronistas latinoamericanos fallecido en 2015. El libro de Contardo no narra la historia de un mito, sino la de un hombre complejo, a veces tierno, siempre rabioso, cuya voz no se ha apagado con la muerte. En la sección En voz alta, Roxana Amed leyó el poema “Tu voz”, del libro “Los trabajos y las noches” de Alejandra Pizarnik, Roxana nació en Buenos Aires, es cantante, productora, compositora, multi instrumentista y entrenadora vocal. Realizó posgrados en literatura española y cine. Se crió en una familia de raíces italianas y de Medio Oriente. Su disco “Unánime” acaba de ser nominado en los Premios Gardel en la categoría Mejor Álbum de Jazz y el 9 de junio lanzará su nuevo trabajo discográfico: LOS TRABAJOS Y LAS NOCHES. Se trata de un material en el que musicaliza la poesía de Alejandra Pizarnik. En la sección Mesita de luz, la periodista Florencia Halfon nos habló de “Anatomía de un instante” de Javier Cercas Florencia Halfon es periodista, integró las redacciones de Crítica y Tiempo Argentino. Actualmente escribe en Cenital, es columnista de “La Negra Pop” el programa de Elizabeth Vernaci y conduce “Ahora dicen” por Futurock y acaba de publicar “Favio vigente”, un libro en el que a partir de conversaciones, viajes e investigación periodística, retrata a Leonardo Favio a través de las pasiones que motorizaron la vida y la obra del artista popular: sus afectos, el cine, la música y la militancia. En Bienvenidos, Hinde habló de “Mujeres silenciadas” en la Edad Media, de Sandra Ferrer (Punto de vista editores) y “El pozo y la pirámide”, de Diego Bentivegna (Audisea), en Libros que sí recomendó “Amor a Roma”, de Charlie Feiling (La bestia equilátera) y “V13”, de Emmanuel Carrere (Anagrama) y finalizó el programa con la mención “Una flor en el jardín del mal” de Daniel Bohm (cienvolando) y “Cada cual aguanta sus trapos” (3Banderas editores) de Alberto Fernández de Rosa
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:12:49.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie's Original Episode:EP 145: Katie Lamb
Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie's apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie's own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone's going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie's climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie's goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie's approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie's honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie's experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he's achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingEmil's Original Episode:EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)
Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caleb-robinsonNuggets:0:07:20 – A Thursday in the life of Caleb Robinson0:08:55 – New Year's Resolutions, and building habits over time0:11:24 – Climbing V13 in the first few years of climbing, and how competitive soccer informed his climbing and training approach0:16:05 – How deadlifting fixed Caleb's back0:21:08 – Being enamored with soccer, and why he quit soccer and started climbing0:24:07 – There's no middle ground in conventional team sports, and why climbing is so special0:29:16 – Uncle —> karate gym —> climbing0:34:00 – “The hard work that you don't want to do pays off.”0:36:04 – “Intelligence is just as important as physical prowess.”0:36:45 – Quadzilla, and connecting between the upper body and lower body0:40:42 – How “hard work pays off” applies to Caleb's climbing0:42:41 – Being a self-learner, and having intention0:49:12 – Training resources and athletes that have guided Caleb's approach0:52:26 – Experimenting with training, focusing on being good at climbing, and avoiding common mistakes and pitfalls0:59:24 – How Caleb developed his technique, and the importance of climbing with people who are better than you1:02:57 – Having a mobility routine, dedicating time to recovery, and missing snowboarding1:08:40 – Caleb's finger-training journey1:19:50 – The value of consistency + simplicity, and sticking with it when progress slows (and Caleb's love affair with Dave MacLeod)1:27:17 – What Caleb's finger training progress looked like over the two years that he did max hangs1:31:41 – Caleb's grip positions for hangboarding1:33:52 – How his finger training has changed in the past year, and learning to apply his finger strength to climbing1:38:13 – What a typical training week looks like for Caleb1:45:16 – Why Caleb started route setting1:47:21 – A typical training week now as a route setter1:49:31 – Caleb's philosophy about skills, finger strength, and core strength, and his stable workouts right now (board climbing, campusing on the spray wall, etc)1:52:32 – Caleb's core training routine1:58:01 – Why Caleb focuses on maximal effort training1:59:12 – The importance of quality practice2:00:32 – “Success comes with consistency over a long period of time”, and Caleb's photography career2:03:07 – Moody Russian painters2:04:31 – Finding his own artistic expression in photography, and the collaborative side of taking portraits2:10:42 – Taking the long view as an athlete and artist2:13:32 – The one thing Caleb wishes people spent more time thinking about2:19:24 – Wrap up and what's next
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie's top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery0:09:55 – Ollie's work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery0:14:25 – Ollie's thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie's funny story about his first interview on Training Beta0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression0:26:06 – “What got me here won't get me there.”0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie's process of examining movement, joint, and action0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan's approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower1:21:00 – Limbic friction1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low2:08:23 – Staying on the bus2:11:39 – Ollie's gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom's cellar2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is….2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn't think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter2:43:12 – My (Steven's) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can't train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering3:09:41 – “Progression isn't always the answer.”3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie's story about his first 5.14b (8c)3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing3:31:53 – Take action on something3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team3:36:42 – Wrap up
durée : 00:51:37 - Répliques - par : Alain Finkielkraut - Ayant assisté aux dix mois d'audiences dans le procès des attentats de novembre 2015, Emmanuel Carrère en a fait un livre, "V13", dont il partage ici quelques axes de réflexion sur les témoins ou sur le mal. - invités : Emmanuel Carrère Ecrivain, scénariste, cinéaste
Allison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She's originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success competing as a Canadian, winning the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020 and winning Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019. In August 2019, Allison became the first female Canadian climber to send V13 when she did The Terminator in Squamish, which you can watch a video about here. She's since done 4 more V13's. This February, she became the first female Canadian climber to send V14 when she did Show Your Scars in Ogden, Utah. She's known for her hilarious antics on Instagram, but also for her huge ape index (+7), which at 5'6″ makes her reach the same as a 6'1″ person. Allison was recently featured on Tyler Nelson's Instagram (@c4hp) because Tyler tested her one-arm strength and her finger strength and said, “If I didn't see it myself, I'd have trouble believing it.” Basically, she's the strongest person (not just female) he's ever tested, and he was completely blown away by that. She's kind of an anomaly, and she talks about how she's gotten so strong in this episode. She wasn't always that way. Last year she decided to take a break from competition climbing to focus on climbing outside, so I wanted to talk with her about why she's taking that break, how that transition has been, whether she misses comp climbing, and what the differences are in her training and performance tactics between outside and indoor climbing. She's also been vocal on social media recently about body image insecurities, and I thought it was incredibly brave of her to come out with this post on Instagram. She started it with, “I always worried that I didn't look enough like a fitness model to be a professional athlete, and have been self conscious of the fact that I don't have a resting six pack.” We talked about that and the response she's gotten to her vulnerability online. We also talked about eating disorders among competition climbers and what, if any, responsibility the IFSC or other climbing organizations have in helping climbers or disqualifying them from competitions. We talked about so much… wow. I also got to ask her about her mindset in competition climbing vs outdoor climbing and how she deals with being a person who wears her heart on her sleeve (I can relate). I loved this talk – I'm a huge fan of Allison's and I was grateful for the chance to get to know her a bit. I hope you love it too :) Allison Vest Interview Details Why she's taking a break from comp climbing and how it's going What she thinks about FFA's What she's had to learn in transitioning to outdoor climbing How the gymnastic style of comp climbing translates to outdoor bouldering Mental differences between comps and outdoor projects What her coach taught her about spiraling mentally What sets her apart physically and mentally from other climbers Her thoughts on her physical strength feats Body image issues and how she's successfully dealing Show Links Instagram @allisonvest Gripped Magazine's Article about Allison Sign up for my new Nutrition and Climbing Training Program, Reach
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