Ecotextile Talks

In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Dr Talia Hussain, whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry.  Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative.  Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion's future report. Key Topics Discussed The EMF's $460 Billion Claim Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector. She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models. Further Reading & Resources Dr Talia Hussain's academic paper: The Emperor's old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report: A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion's future  How to Listen & Subscribe Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.  For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com. Contact & Feedback For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email philip@larchmontfilms.com

In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing's VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing's global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals. If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests: 2023 Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers 2022 How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target 2021 Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability 2020 Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer? Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.    

Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.   This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it's not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it's like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.    

What's the best way to Net Zero? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Pauline Op de Beeck, Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor Phil Patterson They discuss the newly released: "Low Carbon Thermal Energy Roadmap" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries. Key Topics Discussed > The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy consumption is thermal energy primarily generated by burning fossil fuels >The importance of electrification as the ultimate path to net zero, with proper timing being crucial >Analysis of five key textile producing countries: China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia >Forecasting when facilities should transition to electric technologies based on renewable energy availability and cost >The dangers of premature electrification before renewable energy is sufficiently available >The new industry benchmarking tool being developed to help brands and manufacturers track energy uses and emissions.    More details of the Apparel Impact Institute's Climate Solutions Portfolio grant applications open until March 31, 2025  

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of plastic leakage in the textile industry with one of its co-authors Dr. Jesse Daystar, Cotton Incorporated's Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Environmental Science and Management at the University of California, Santa Barbara. We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion. Other studies mentioned in the podcast: The Effect of Denim Fabric as a Feedstock in Large Scale Composting of Manure/Bedding and Food Scraps Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation Impact of dyes and finishes on the aquatic biodegradability of cotton textile fibers and microfibers released on laundering clothes  Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on  Apple, Spotify, and Amazon Music or wherever you listen.  Or visit our  Ecotextile News website to find out more on this issue.      

Host Philip Berman explores the fascinating world of biogenic carbon storage in cotton garments with Dr. Richard Venditti, from North Carolina State University, Steve Pires from Cotton Incorporated, and Emily Graham from Carhartt. Together, they delve into the climate benefits of cotton and how it can play a crucial role in the textile industry's sustainability efforts. We cover the following topics Biogenic Carbon Storage: how cotton garments can act as temporary carbon sinks, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and mitigating climate change. Dynamic vs. Static Life Cycle Assessment: an explanation and discussion of dynamic LCAs, how they account for the timing of emissions, and how it can reveal a more accurate picture of cotton's environmental impact. Sustainability Strategies: a discussion on some of the practical ways to extend the life of cotton garments Link to the 2024 study (from the Bioresources journal) we discuss in depth in the podcast: Evaluating cotton apparel with dynamic life cycle assessment assessment: The climate benefits of temporary biogenic carbon storage  For more information about Cotton Incorporated  Find out more about our daily news website and pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains since 2006.

In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Michael Schragger, Founder & Executive Director of the Sustainable Fashion Academy, to discuss the fashion industry's complex journey towards sustainability.  Fresh off the release of STICA's Progress Report from the end of 2024, Schragger gives a unique insight into the successes and challenges Scandinavian fashion companies face striving to meet climate targets, with lessons for the whole industry..  We discuss: Surprising findings from his annual survey of 55 leading Scandinavian companies working in this sector; The Sustainability Paradox - why companies struggle to align financial growth with environmental goals; The role of EU regulations in shaping corporate behavior and forcing faster change; Why circular business models are struggling to take off. Looming large over the whole conversation is the question of whether the mass fashion industry can truly redesign itself to meet climate targets, or are current models unsustainable?  Please also visit the Ecotextile News website to find out more about this issue.

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Marie-Jeanne Gaertner, project and policy officer at RREUSE (Reuse and Recycling European Union Social Enterprises) to find out why the textile reuse and recycling sector in the European Union is facing an unprecedented crisis. Gaertner says that a recent open letter to the European Commission and member states, penned by RREUSE, explains why the sector is on the brink of financial collapse, with social enterprises bearing the brunt of this turmoil. She notes how the current 'crisis', which has seen several notable business failures in 2024, is unlike any previously encountered. She claims that up to 16% of the textiles collected in some regions are simply waste that cannot be used and will need to be disposed – at a significant financial cost. She adds, “So now that there are more and more opportunities to resell products on a consumer-to-consumer basis, we observe that consumers tend to resell themselves the most valuable items and donate or throw out the non-reusable ones." What's discussed: RREUSE represents over 1,200 social enterprises across 30 countries, all dedicated to collecting, sorting, and repurposing textiles. These enterprises collected approximately 337,000 tonnes of textiles in 2023. They are now struggling with a growing influx of low-quality donations due to ultra-fast fashion. Blames the textile recycling problems on overconsumption of low quality apparel. Says impending regulation will only add fuel to the fire. Talks about required financing mechanisms to keep sector healthy to meet EU circularity goals. Find out more about our daily news website and our pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains sicne 2006.

This episode of Ecotextile Talks explores the legal challenge facing fast fashion company Shein as it considers listing on the London Stock Exchange (LSE).  In the summer UK based charity, Stop Uyghur Genocide, asked the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) to reject any potential request from Shein to list on the LSE.  At the moment, we don't know for sure whether Shein has submitted a request to the FCA so as we all wait, we thought that it would helpful for a lawyer to take us inside the legal case against Shein's listing on the London Stock Exchange. Not just any lawyer, but the one representing Stop Uyghur Genocide, Ricardo Gama from the UK law firm Leigh Day.  We discuss: The legal basis for opposing Shein's potential listing, focusing on the UK Modern Slavery Act and the Proceeds of Crime Act. How these laws could apply to Shein's operations, even though the company produces goods outside the UK. The alleged evidence presented to the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) regarding forced labor in the Uyghur region and its alleged connection to Shein's supply chain. Shein's response to the allegations and correspondence from Leigh Day The potential next steps in the legal process, including the possibility of a judicial review if the Financial Conduct Authority approves any potential Shein's listing. In the interests of balance and journalistic integrity, we emailed Shein on 25th September to give it an opportunity to respond to the allegations being made in this podcast by Leigh Day, on behalf of Stop Uyghur Genocide, in particular that its supply chain allegedly features forced labour, and the consequential handling of criminal property in breach of the UK Proceeds of Crime Act. We asked Shein for either a recorded interview to include at the end of this podcast, or a written statement but as of September 30th no one from Shein had replied. In the podcast we also invited Shein to record a follow-up podcast with us, to respond to the content of this one. If you would like to read more about the, "NCA and its failure to investigate imports linked to forced labour - see this Guardian article   If you're interested in this issue, then you might like to listen to another recent edition of Ecotextile Talks entitled: "Can we trust textile factory audits in China?" which has an interview with the Executive Director of the Worker Rights Consortium, Scott Nova.    

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we explore the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDD). This significant new European law entered into force on 25 July 2024 and will be rolled out in phases.  Hosted by Philip Berman and featuring Alexander Kohnstamm, Executive Director of Fair Wear, this discussion sheds light on the critical need for companies to uphold human rights and environmental protections throughout their supply chains. Key questions covered include: How will the CSDD reshape human rights due diligence practices in the textile industry? What specific compliance measures must companies implement to align with this directive? In what ways is Fair Wear assisting businesses in navigating these new regulations? Alexander also shares details about Fair Wear's upcoming Human Rights Due Diligence Academy, which officially launches on October 9th. This initiative aims to equip companies with the knowledge and tools necessary for effective compliance. For further information, visit HRDDacademy.com or reach out via email at info@fairwear.org

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Claudia Kersten, managing director of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) to discuss a cotton monitoring project which is literally out of this world.  GOTS is working alongside the European Space Agency (ESA) and artificial intelligence specialist Marple to monitor Indian organic cotton crops from space – using AI and satellite imagery to verify farming techniques and identify fraud.  The participants discuss how using satellite imagery and AI can distinguish between organic cotton fields from conventional ones. The project, funded by the ESA involved visiting 6,000 fields in India to collect 'ground truth' data, which was used to train an algorithm to identify organic cotton fields. The current accuracy is 80%, with plans to improve it. The initiative aims to increase organic cotton production and integrity, benefiting both farmers and consumers. Future steps include expanding to other regions, and refining the technology for higher accuracy. This accuracy is expected to improve through ongoing refinement and validation processes, involving more visual inspections and cross-checking with existing data. GOTS says that the next steps will involve connecting the market and supporting organic conversion projects.

Fresh from his high-profile appearance at a recent US Congressional-Executive Commission on China hearing, Scott Nova, Executive Director of the Workers Rights Consortium in Washington DC, gave Philip Berman a hard-hitting interview questioning the reliability of social compliance audits in China.  Scott says about auditing companies working in the Xinjiang region: "I'm sure there are some that are actually claiming that they can conclusively demonstrate the absence of forced labor in the region, but no auditor should be working there. It's incredibly disreputable. Even aside from the fact that you can't conduct a methodologically credible audit there, what you were doing by operating there, Is you are enhancing the ability of the Chinese government to keep doing what it is doing to the Uyghur people because the best hope the Uyghur people have is that this economic boycott will convince the Chinese government that it is in its interest to chart a different course in terms of its treatment of the Uyghurs." Scott and Philip discussed the impact of the Ughur Forced Labor Prevention Act, in stopping goods made using forced Labor coming into the US.  Interestingly, Scott said that since the Act has come into force, "to our knowledge, nobody has overcome that rebuttable presumption," that goods coming from that region were not made with forced labor.  We followed up this point with Scott after the podcast - as it appeared that a number of goods had been seized by US customs under the law and Scott told us: "On UFLPA seizures, there are two different phases of the process. In the first phase, CBP 'targets' shipments that it thinks have content from the Uyghur Region. Some of the targeted shipments are released because CBP determines they don't have such content. If CBP does confirm there is content from the Uyghur Region, then the shipment is denied entry to the US, based on the presumption that all goods with content from the Uyghur Region were made with forced labor. That is the second phase. At that point, an importer can attempt to rebut that presumption by showing that no forced labor was actually used. No company has successfully done so. The released goods to which you are referring were released in the first phase, based on where the content was from." It's a fascinating and broad-ranging conversation, with Scott and Philip discussing several issues around this topic, in particular: Why, according to Scott, impartial factory audits are so hard to carry out in the Xinjiang region?  Does he think the issue is confined to just this province? Whether we should trust any social audits in China? And what does he think this all mean for any company wanting to do business there? You can read much more on this issue online at Ecotextile News where we most recently reported that a court ruled that the UK National Crime Agency's (NCA) refusal to investigate forced labour links to cotton imported from China was unlawful. This comes after cotton exports from the region continue to surge despite legislation in the USA.      

In the final edition of our four-part podcast series, produced in partnership with Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, we discuss the need for collective action and pre competitive collaboration to deliver real impact.  Regular host Philip Berman is joined by Joyce Tsoi, senior director of the decarbonization program at Cascale, and Magnus Dorsch, Head of Corporate Sustainability, at online retail portal About You.  Topics covered 2 minutes What inspires Joyce and Magnus in their work? 4 minutes What is pre-competitive collaboration, its importance generally and for Cascale 5 minutes Its importance for About You and their Fashion Leap for Climate project 7 minutes Where is the mutual benefit of a project like Fashion Leap for Climate?  8 minutes What are the challenges of pre-competitive collaboration, and how has Magnus managed them?  9 minutes How does Magnues collaborate with manufacturers for About You's private label?  11 minutes Cascale's collaboration with manufacturers. 13 minutes Magnus' challenge of working with small manufacturers  14 minutes Joyce and Magnus discuss Cascale's Manufacturer Climate Action Programme - MCAP  What do manufacturers think about the programme? Discussion about science-based targets 20 minutes What challenges do manufacturers face in decarbonising? 21 minutes Particular issues with manufacturers sourcing renewable energy in South East Asia. 22 minutes Could manufacturers be focusing on energy efficiency as a first step? What about biomass? 24 minutes Magnus discusses what About You is doing to become more energy efficient and source more renewable energy. They are setting examples as a form of social signalling. 27 minutes Magnus and Joyce leave us with inspiring end messages!  30 minutes End        

This third of a four part podcast series, brought to you in association with Cascale – the new name of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition – features a deep dive into how best to tackle carbon reductions in the global apparel industry and take a closer look at Cascale's shift from tools to programmes. Our host Philip Berman sits down with Sean Cady, vice president of global sustainability, responsibility and trade for VF Corporation, and also an elected board director for Cascale, and Andrew Martin, executive vice president of Cascale, for our latest podcast on decarbonising the fashion supply chain. Andrew Martin begins by outlining the importance of science-based targets to Cascale's work on decarbonisation and why it has set a requirement for its members to commit to these vital objectives. “Alignment and standardisation is part of our DNA,” he tells Phil Berman. He also highlights how a standardised approach to supply chain decarbonisation can reduce duplication, reduce confusion, and, importantly for Cascale's members, allows them to accelerate climate action together. “The membership requirements are there to provide the pathway – the route. And our role is to provide support,” he explains. Sean Cady agrees with the benefits offered by signing up to this collaborative approach. “These long term targets have inspired our global teams and all of our suppliers to act in a more purposeful way,” he says. “They (the targets) have also provided key measures aligned with VF's purpose, which ends with betterment of people and planet. “They drive internal annual work plans that are actionable, and these plans enable us to complete different projects that all ladder up to the methodical, incremental achievement of goals that are driving toward our 2030 targets.” Sean Cady also discusses the challenge of reducing scope 3 supply chain emissions which, he tells listeners, account for over 99% of VF's total emissions. “That's really where we have to focus,” he says. Phil Berman and his guests go on to discuss the critical role played by the Higg Index suite of tools, the current regulatory landscape, and the growing urgency of mitigating the impact of global climate change from a textile and apparel perspective.  

In the second of a four part podcast series in partnership with Cascale, formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, we look at the potential impact on the textile industry of revolutionary new EU laws on green claims and eco-design.  Regular host Philip Berman is joined by Elisabeth von Reitzenstein, senior director of public affairs at Cascale and Baptiste Carriere-Pradal, co-founder of the 2BPolicy consultancy.   You can sign up to Cascale's public affairs newsletter, that Elisabeth mentions in the podcast, here. You can get in touch with Baptiste's consultancy company here.      

Welcome to a new four part podcast series in partnership with Cascale, formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, about the big challenges facing the industry, and Cascale's role in co-creating solutions at scale.  The first episode is about Measuring for Impact with host Philip Berman in conversation with:  Quentin Thorel, the Group Head of Sustainability of CIEL Textile with its HQ in Mauritius.  Ciel Textiles supplies fabrics and garments to some of the most iconic fashion brands in the world such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, Hackett, Barbour, Levis, Tommy Calvin Klein, Lacoste and the list goes on and on… It employs 23,000 people in four countries, Madagascar, Mauritius, India and Bangladesh and since 2019 has used both the Higg Facility Environmental, and Higg Facility Social & Labor Modules across all of its sites. And Jeremy Lardeau, Senior VP of the Higg Index at Cascale who oversees the strategic direction and development of the Higg Index suite of tools.  Sustainability data and measurement are critical to drive meaningful action, so we ask whether Higg Facility tools (Higg FEM and Higg FSLM) can help users to improve the way they make sustainable decisions, and whether the Higg FEM 4.0 update has brought necessary changes to the tool? We also discuss why the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) has changed its name to Cascale.    

In the second episode of this podcast series, produced in partnership with the Apparel Impact Institute about its Climate Solutions Portfolio (CSP), we take a look at the tool it's built to help decide who should get the funding, and what a winning application looks like.  As a quick re-cap, the CSP aims to find, feature and fund any initiative, project or piece of tech with the potential to reduce energy use and/or greenhouse gas emissions at scale in the industry. And it has up to 250,000 dollars per year to award to projects that have the data to show they have the potential to make an impact. In this episode, Ecotextile News correspondent Phil Patterson and environmental scientist Linda Greer explain how they developed a tool they call the 'Ready Reckoner' – to objectively compare the overall CO2 savings of different innovations and solutions across all parts of the textile manufacturing process. Phil Patterson told host Phil Berman that he's come up with a punchier, and more colloquial nickname for the tool. “Apologies for my language, but it's a bit of an ‘eco bullsh*t detector' because there's lots of innovation out there but there are lots of people overclaiming the benefits that their solutions can deliver." “What we've created is what we call a gas map of the entire supply chain, which is essentially looking at where greenhouse gases emissions occur, allocating a percentage of those emissions to individual processes within the supply chain. Patterson and Greer talk in detail about how the tool can be used, and how it can be improved in the future as better data becomes available. And most importantly they both drop some big hints on what they are looking for in applications, with lots of do's and don'ts. Applications are open from 1 to 31 March, 2024. To find out more about the Portolio, do check out its dedicated site where you can also contact their team if you need help with your application.      

In partnership with the Apparel Impact Institute, Philip Berman takes an in-depth look at its new The Climate Solutions Portfolio which aims to find, feature and fund any initiative with the potential to reduce energy use and/or greenhouse gas emissions at scale in the industry.  And it has up to 250,000 dollars per year to award to projects that have the data to show they have the potential to make a big impact.   In this first episode, Philip Berman was joined by Kurt Kipka, the Apparel Impact Institute's Chief Impact Officer, and Linda Greer, who sits on the Institute's advisory panel and is one of the experts assessing the grant applications.  They talked about, why the Institute believe their new approach is needed, why there is no online registry of proven solutions, and what the Institute is doing about it, how the grants are being funded, and previous winners. In episode 2, which is released on 29 February, there will be lots of tips on how to apply and what their team is looking for.  Applications open from 1 to 31 March, 2024. If you want to find out more about the Portolio check out its dedicated site where you can also contact their team if you need help with your application.  

In partnership with the Apparel Impact Institute, host Philip Berman takes an in-depth look at its new The Climate Solutions Portfolio which aims to find, feature and fund any initiative with the potential to reduce energy use and/or greenhouse gas emissions at scale in the industry.  And it has up to 250,000 dollars per year to award to projects that have the data to show they have the potential to make a big impact.   Launching Thursday 22nd February 6am GMT! Subscribe for free now!!  

To coincide with the week of World Soil Day 2023, our third and final episode of our Threaded Together: cotton and sustainability podcast series, sponsored by Cotton Incorporated, looks at the US Climate Smart Cotton Program- a bold, new and exciting initiative in the US, which aims to measure and improve the country's cottons' carbon footprint. We look at what it is, how it works, who can take part, why it's needed, who benefits from it and why it's of interest to the whole value chain in the textile industry. To answer these questions, host Philip Berman is joined by: Daren Abney, the Executive Director of the US Cotton Trust Protocol, which leads on the programme. Dr Cristine Morgan, Chief Scientific Officer at the Soil Health Institute, which is partner on the programme. Dr Jesse Daystar, Chief Sustainability Officer at Cotton Incorporated, which is partner on the programme. Daren Abney tells listeners: "I think this opportunity really came about because the US government is seeing agriculture at scale as an opportunity to address climate challenges." Soil health expert Dr Morgan explains later in the podcast: "The main thing that we want to do is improve the soil. We want to get carbon out of the atmosphere and we also want to release fewer greenhouse gases into the atmosphere." Here are the factsheets recently released by Dr Morgan that she says demonstrate how soil health management systems are making cotton growers more profitable. -Factsheet: Economics of Soil Health Management Systems on Eight Cotton Farms in Georgia Factsheet: Economics of Soil Health Systems on Eight Cotton Farms in the Texas Southern Great Plains   Webinar: Economics of Soil Health Systems on Eight Cotton Farms in the Texas Southern Great Plains   Other partners in the programme include, Cotton Council International, Agricenter International, North Carolina A&T State University, Alabama A&M University and Texas A&M AgriLife Research. Cotton Incorporated is a US-based, not-for-profit company, that provides resources and research to help companies develop and market innovative and profitable cotton products. Cick here for Episode One of Threaded Together: Cotton and Sustainability and Click here for Episode Two of Threaded Together: How best to measure cotton's environmental impact.  For a look at our complete podcast archive, click HERE.Subscribe to our podcasts and radio shows by following us on  Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, to automatically get alerts when we launch a new Ecotextile Talks Behind the News podcast.   

In the second of this three-part podcast series: 'Threaded Together' about cotton sustainability, host Philip Berman talks to Dr Jesse Daystar, from Cotton Inc and Joel Mertens from the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, about the best way(s) to measure sustainability in the cotton industry and how it can drive change. Jesse and Joel discuss the purpose of a life cycle assessment (LCA), the different types and, in light of  the recent KMPG review of the SAC's Higg Product Module, how they should be used, how they can get misused and their limitations.   Cotton Incorporated is a US-based, not-for-profit company, that provides resources and research to help companies develop and market innovative, and profitable cotton products.  It's probably best known for its Seal of Cotton trademark which was created 50 years ago, in 1973, and has become an iconic symbol to consumers and is globally recognized by the textile industry.   Subscribe to our podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, to automatically get alerts when we launch a new Ecotextile Talks Behind the News podcast.   

Many fashion brands and retailers talk a good game on circularity, but will they ever consistently pay a premium for materials made using 100% textile-to-textile recycling? Acting CEO of Renewcell Magnus Håkansson joins Ecotextile Talks to discuss the company's current challenges in receiving a higher price for a product offering the circularity so often discussed at textile sustainability conferences. Despite great industry excitement when Renewcell moved to a full-scale production facility earlier this year, in readiness for full commercialisation, the Swedish innovator has encountered a difficult few months since the summer of 2023. Share prices have tumbled amid concern that the appetite for Renewcell's proprietary Circulose pulp may not perhaps as high as expected - despite several take-off agreements having suggested this would not be an issue.  The latest instalment of Ecotextile Talks sets out to better understand the situation behind a slump in optimism about the scaling up of a much-discussed company which aims to help fashion firms move away from linear practices.

In a new three-part sponsored series entitled, Threaded Together, podcast host Philip Berman looks at Cotton Incorporated's role in improving the sustainability of cotton in the textile industry.    Cotton Incorporated a US-based, not-for-profit company, provides resources and research to help companies develop and market innovative, and profitable cotton products.    It's probably best known for its Seal of Cotton trademark which was created 50 years ago, in 1973, and has become an iconic symbol to consumers and is globally recognized by the textile industry.    In this first episode Philip Berman talks to Dr Jesse Daystar, a Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer at Cotton Inc; Mary Ankeny, the organisation's Vice President of Product Development and Operations; and Dr Joe Sagues, Assistant Professor in Biological and Agricultural Engineering at North Carolina State University.   They enjoy a wide-ranging discussion covering issues from, the biodegradability of cotton and its impact on microfibre pollution, to pioneering research into composting cotton textile waste to capture CO2.   Subscribe to our podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, to automatically get alerts when we launch a new Ecotextile Talks Behind the News podcast.   

Following a report outlining the potential benefits for fashion brands looking to integrate resale into their business model, Ecotextile Talks hears from Andy Ruben, founder of recommerce specialist Trove, who shares his insights on where the greatest opportunities lie. In a conversation dominated by statistics rather than rhetoric, Ruben speaks to Ecotextile News editor John Mowbray at an industry event in Boston to discuss how Trove worked with sustainable tech platform Worldly to identify the fields in which second-hand apparel can directly improve the economic and environmental outputs of brands. Rather than casting apparel resale as a solve-all solution, Ruben shares data suggesting successful approaches will always need to be tailored according to variables such as retail price points and will likely prove far more effective for certain market segments. “When you make items that have value beyond the first sale – which tend to be higher price point items because people can't access them on the first go around – they [consumers] covet those brands, they're strong brands, they want them on the second go around,” Ruben states, referring to the resale suitability of premium, luxury and outdoor apparel. The episode also dives into how the research, published in Where Are Circular Models Effective Sustainability Strategies for Fashion Brands?, was devised and conducted.

As a formal partnership between the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and International Apparel Federation (IAF) is signed, a key figure involved in the collaborative process speaks to Ecotextile Talks about what the duo hope to achieve. Andrew Martin, executive vice president of the SAC, sits down with podcast host David Styles to discuss what a memorandum of understanding (MoU) between the two organisations might mean for the fashion and textile industries at large. When asked about the purpose of the partnership and how the SAC and IAF will quantify success, Martin stated: “It has to be built on relationships, partnerships, the longer term. So I think the big numbers that will come out of it will be things like: are we starting to see a reduction in greenhouse gas emissions, as one area.” The SAC executive vice president also spoke candidly about a need for meaningful change in relation to climate targets cited by some brands and retailers. “I'll be quite bold and say, unless they actually have very strong purchasing practices, very strong relationships with their suppliers, they won't hit their science based targets. They just won't.” Other topics covered in the episode include audit fatigue, decarbonisation efforts and the value of industry partnerships, as well as the process of attempting to bridge influence gap between manufacturers and the brands and retailers they produce for. * Episode glossary * MoU – Memorandum of Understanding SAC – Sustainable Apparel Coalition IAF – International Apparel Federation Higg BRM – Higg Brand & Retail Module STTI – Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative GIZ – Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (German development agency)

In an extended episode of Ecotextile Talks, the way in which the apparel sector responds to natural disasters is placed under the microscope. Podcast host David Styles is this week joined by two guests to discuss reports which respectively shine a light on the past, present and potential future of the industry's collective response to crises caused by catastrophes such as earthquakes or extreme weather events. First, Penelope Kyritsis from the Worker Rights Consortium discusses the findings of a white paper exploring the responses of major apparel brands to the devastating earthquake in Turkey earlier this year. The report brings together the perspectives of 16 fashion brands and 202 suppliers situated in the affected region, with various trends and contradictions highlighted. In the second part of the programme, Styles is joined by Jason Judd, executive director of Cornell University's Global Labor Institute, to outline the key strands of a recent study which argues climate breakdown could lead to apparel sector losses of $65 billion without appropriate planning and precautionary measures being taken. In addition to spotlighting the potential disruption facing the sector – especially in the most ‘climate vulnerable' garment producing nations, such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Pakistan and Vietnam – Judd shares his insights on how the sector can best prepare to counteract such risks. This topic, along with many others, is also the subject of our news videos available via both the Ecotextile Views homepage and @ecotextileviews YouTube channel.

The latest instalment of the Ecotextile Talks podcast series explores the motivations behind a campaign calling on the fashion industry to move away from conventional care and content labels in favour of digital alternatives.  Steve Lamar, president and CEO of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), who is one of the most prominent industry voices behind the #CutTheTape campaign, sits down with Tom Bithell to share his views on why digital solutions such as QR codes ought to be implemented as soon as possible. The current “extraordinary” situation cannot be perpetuated, he asserts, with enough label tape being produced annually by the apparel sector to “stretch from here from Earth to the moon and back 12 times”. This, the AAFA boss states, makes labels themselves – regardless of the garment they are affixed to – a “sustainability burden”. While material usage is a key tenet of the campaign's case, during this episode Lamar is also pressed on issues such as who would be responsible for the publication and management of garment care and content data as well as the ethics of leaving some consumers at the mercy of the ‘digital divide' – affecting those members of society without the means or knowhow to access information online. This topic, along with many others, is also the subject of our news videos available via both the Ecotextile Views homepage and @ecotextileviews YouTube channel.

Earlier this summer host Phil Berman sat down with Carolina Ledl, Lenzing's head of product and application management, to discuss the company's ambitious plans to start producing its Ecovero-branded viscose in its manufacturing plant in Indonesia.    Lenzing first launched its ‘EcoVero' branded viscose in 2017, in response to growing a demand for more transparent viscose fibres. And with the expansion of its dope-dyed ‘Black' version now imminent, Carolina explains what the company's €100m expansion plans in South Asia will mean for sourcing both raw materials and reducing energy consumption in this regional manufacturing facility. She also talks about why the Indonesian plant will shortly start producing ‘Ecovero Black' and reveals how it uses less water, electricity, and heat than other conventional viscose dyeing processes.  You can subscribe to our podcasts on  Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, and get automatic alerts whenever a new episode is released. This episode is produced in partnership with the Lenzing Group.  For more news on Lenzing's plans, explore our written content on Ecotextile News: https://www.ecotextile.com/2023083131112/materials-production-news/lenzing-plots-a-greener-future-for-indonesia-plant.html#jextbox-login-module-0 https://www.lenzing.com/newsroom/press-releases/press-release/lenzing-successfully-completing-the-conversion-and-upgrade-of-its-indonesian-site              

In the latest episode of Ecotextile Talks, Jeffrey Thimm from Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) discusses an initiative exploring the potential of combining artificial intelligence and satellite technologies to monitor organic cotton production. Podcast host David Styles discusses with Thimm how GOTS reached the point at which, with project partners the European Space Agency and tech firm Marple, it is watching over cotton production in India from space. Despite what may seem like a futuristic endeavour, Thimm is adamant that this type of project is a much-needed breakthrough capable of increasing trust in the cotton sector. “This is a way to increase the integrity of the organic cotton sector. To increase the integrity of GOTS as well,” he asserts. “And so, not only the brands can be confident that their supply chains are what they believe they are – sustainable according to GOTS standards – but also that consumers can continue to have faith in the benefits of participating in the organic system.” Another topic raised in the episode is the allegation – attributed in the Indian press to ‘anonymous sources' – that the project represents a national security threat. This entire debacle, Thimm states, can be attributed to individuals or organisations “engaged in fraud”. The conversation also reveals that once the latest stage of the experimental project shares its initial results, expected to be at the end of 2023, there may well be other applications for the technologies involved – beyond India and the cotton sector.

The latest report from Cotton Campaign insists the time has come for the fashion industry to act conclusively on forced labour in Turkmen cotton fields, with human rights lawyer and researcher Allison Gill telling Ecotextile Talks that legal obligations must now be met.  Speaking on behalf Cotton Campaign, an interdisciplinary coalition of human and labour rights organisations focused on cotton supply chains, Gill sits down with podcast host David Styles to discuss the past, present and potential future of Turkmenistan's use of forced labour and the nation's relationship with the global apparel industry. After a decade of what she regards as negligible progress in Turkmenistan, the human rights expert is realistic about the monumental challenge facing those who wish to engender real change but admits she hopes kernels of optimism may soon be evident – if the fashion industry collectively acts. Publicly shunning Turkmen cotton and funding comprehensive supply chain due diligence, the human rights expert asserts, is the minimum required to start the ball rolling on meaningful progress. “Companies and businesses should absolutely not be using Turkmen cotton goods… They have a legal obligation not to do so,” Gill argues, before contextualising the reality in Turkmenistan comparative to other nearby controversial cotton-producing hotspots such as Uzbekistan and China's Xinjiang region. Despite the latest report describing children as young as eight being compulsorily engaged in physically gruelling work, Gill admits that a key discussion among the Cotton Campaign partner organisations was how to ensure the publication was able to “convey the information so that it grabs people's attention”. She also labels the newest findings “ground-breaking”, given that much of the information was sourced by monitors working undercover in the secretive Eurasian nation – risking their freedom or even lives to do so.

As an apparent global push to include extended producer responsibility (EPR) frameworks in legislation gathers pace, podcast host David Styles catches up with Claire Kneller, managing director of WRAP Asia Pacific, to discuss the Australian Government's approach. Claire joins the latest episode of Ecotextile Talks as a representative of the consortium behind Seamless, an initiative aiming to convince fashion brands and retailers to voluntarily contribute four cents per garment to fund textile circularity programmes and avoid a mandatory levy being imposed by central government. “Textiles is on the minister's list. It has been for a while,” Kneller explains. “Perhaps unsurprisingly, the industry was not taking enough action. There are things happening in the industry, on an individual brand and retailer level, but by no stretch of the imagination is it enough activity.” It was this perceived stasis that led Australia's environment minister, Tanya Plibersek, to put the nation's fashion companies on notice: they have 12 months to act or risk much harsher measures being imposed legally. Success for the scheme, Kneller believes, would be 60% of the industry signing up to contribute by June 2024. “That's actually not that many companies,” she notes. “That's probably between 15 and 20 businesses, depending on which ones you get. So it's not a huge number, but the market in Australia is extremely consolidated at the top end.” While WRAP Asia Pacific's managing director is optimistic this level of uptake can be achieved, she issues industry with the cautionary tale that failing to do so may result in a higher contribution than the 4 cents per garment being proposed in this preliminary voluntary phase. “Industry has the opportunity for it to continue as an industry led scheme. Once it becomes a co-regulatory scheme, it's quite a different setup… What currently is drafted as a four cents per garment levy might be 40 cents per garment under a regulatory scheme. Now I'm not saying it will be, but it could be because it really is out of industry's hands.”

In our latest Ecotextile Talks podcast, Philip Berman catches up with John Murphy, Hohenstein's technical director for Europe, for an update on the company's testing and certification process for its new Oeko-Tex organic cotton standard that was launched in April. The new testing procedure has been created to verify the labelling of organic cotton textiles, but with additional criteria that meets with the stringent Oeko-Tex Standard 100. It claims to ensure that cotton samples contain less than 10% genetically modified material, comply with limits on hazardous chemicals including pesticide residues, and guarantees its organic origin down to farm level. Asked why he thinks the cotton industry needs a new organic label certification process, Murphy suggests that as the demand for organic has grown rapidly, so has the need to ensure that the labelling is reliable, particularly for consumers. “We saw a need from the industry for a new independent label for organic cotton,” he tells Ecotextile Talks, explaining that Hohenstein took its time to develop the process to make sure of its integrity and that it was trustworthy. In addition to the qualitative DNA analysis of the sample material (i.e. does a product contain genetically modified cotton, yes or no?), Murphy notes that a second important step involves quantification – determining the proportion of genetically modified cotton in a sample. The aim, he says, is not only to check production, but also to make sure the raw material is traceable throughout the supply chain. The result is a quantitative method of GMO testing, which, for the first time he says, allows for differentiation between contamination and purposeful addition of conventionally grown cotton. Pressed on the feasibility of this process, Murphy raises an important point around the delineation between contamination, which maybe is accidental, and that which is purposeful and potentially verging on the fraudulent. Asked how the testing manages to differentiate between those two processes, he clarifies that there is always slight contamination with cross-flying lint in production. “We're not trying to eliminate cross contamination – that's very, very difficult,” he says. “What we are trying to eliminate is suppliers who may dilute the organic cotton with conventional cotton to try to increase volumes and this test will differentiate between accidental contamination and genuine contamination. “We've set limits of less than 10% for accidental contamination. We'll look at this limit which has been set for now and see how relevant it is over time.” Subscribe to our podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, to automatically get alerts when we launch a new Ecotextile Talks podcast

In a special edition of Ecotextile Talks to commemorate the ten year anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse, host David Styles is joined by a range of expert guests who share their opinions on the disaster's wide-ranging impacts. The podcast explores how the catastrophe occurred, its lasting legacies for victims and the global apparel sector, as well as looking ahead to what the next decade may hold as the tragedy continues to cast a long shadow. Expert guests include: Miran Ali, vice-president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association Mary Creagh, chair of the Ethical Trading Initiative Lavinia Muth, activist and consultant Professor Rashedur Chowdhury, academic behind unparalleled Rana Plaza study Eric Henry, president of TS Designs You can subscribe to our podcasts on Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, and get automatic alerts whenever a new episode is released.

Host Phil Berman sits down with Eva McGeorge, Lenzing's Head of Marketing and Communications, to discuss the company's recent global survey on consumer attitudes to sustainability in fashion. Lenzing says the aim of its new survey – the key insights of which will be launched exclusively in next month's edition of Ecotextile News – was to find out what drives and motivates consumers when it comes to shopping for textiles and clothing. Is it price? Sustainability? Or something else entirely? In the podcast Eva highlights how some nationalities are more likely to keep their clothes for longer, and shop less frequently, than others. And she also discusses four key drivers that can affect a consumer's motivation to act in a more sustainable way. You can subscribe to our podcasts on  Apple, Google, Spotify and Amazon Music, and get automatic alerts whenever a new episode is released.    

Host Philip Berman talks to Oeko-Tex's Melanie Teutberg about Responsible Business - a new tool launched by the global certification company in a bid to help textile businesses navigate legal obligations under the deluge of new due diligence laws. The standard is based on the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs), the OECD Guideline for Multinational Enterprises, the OECD Due Diligence Guidance Textile and Footwear and the OECD Guideline for Responsible Business Conduct.   It also ensures compliance with the German Supply Chain Act and the proposed new European Directive on Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence. For more information about the new tool visit: https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/our-standards/responsible-business

In today's edition host, Philip Berman, talks to Dr. Krishna Manda, Vice President of Corporate Sustainability at the Lenzing Group, and Roberta Vernocchi, a Senior Materials Manager at Timberland Apparel, about launching a new traceable apparel collection using Lenzing's Tencel Refibra technology. Manda and Vernocchi talk listeners through the new Timberland Fall 2022 collection that uses Tencel Refibra fabrics derived from a combination of sustainably sourced wood pulp and recycled cotton. “As a brand Timberland has this vision for a greener future, which means we look for new materials and innovation to reduce our environmental impact,” said Vernocchi, “Our outdoor customers are not just looking for a new aesthetic but have the environment in mind … and we need to differentiate and add some value to our core outdoor products other than just using cotton.” The US outdoor brand also talks about how it overcame some key sourcing challenges and Manda explains to listeners why Refibra was developed in the first place and how it can contribute to circularity.

Welcome to the third edition of Editor's picks. Each week the Editor of Ecotextile News selects a few key stories from the magazine that he thinks you need to hear, read out by AI voices. Then a human - Philip Berman - pieces it all together with music and voice-over, and a little magic turns it into a podcast for your aural delight!  This week we report on:  The UN accuses China of "serious human rights violations" and possible crimes against humanity in the detention and torture of Uyghur Muslims in Xinjiang. (2.03min)   Textile industry body Euratex calls on the EU to take bold steps to tackle the energy crisis. (6.30)   A new 14m US dollar project in Denmark aims to cut back on textile waste and C02 emissions.  (9.15) The stories you can hear are just a sample of what's on offer with an Ecotextile News subscription, where you can read all of our exclusive stories and ideas on sustainability in the fashion and textile industry.   New subscribers can use our time-limited 15% off by inputting POD15 on this page: https://www.ecotextile.com/magazine-subscribe Hope you enjoy the podcast - and let us know who your favourite robot is...

Welcome to the third edition of Editor's picks. Each week the Editor of Ecotextile News selects a few key stories from the magazine that he thinks you need to hear, read out by AI voices. Then a human - Philip Berman - pieces it all together with music and voice-over, and a little magic turns it into a podcast for your aural delight!  This week we report on:  How a shortage of rain is reining in cotton production (2.54 min).   Major plans from the Policy Hub to cut textile waste in Europe (8.19 min).   A look at how innovation could turn some industry C02 emissions back into textiles (12.32). The stories you can hear are just a sample of what's on offer with an Ecotextile News subscription, where you can read all of our exclusive stories and ideas on sustainability in the fashion and textile industry.   New subscribers can use our time-limited 15% off by inputting POD15 on this page: https://www.ecotextile.com/magazine-subscribe Hope you enjoy the podcast - and let us know who your favourite robot is...

Welcome to the second episode of Editor's picks. Each week the Editor of Ecotextile News will select a few key stories from the magazine that he thinks you need to hear, read out by AI voices. Then a human - Philip Berman - pieces it all together with music and voice-over, and a little magic turns it into a podcast for your aural delight!  This week we report on:  The Sustainable Apparel Coalition putting a global halt on the use of Higg MSI data on consumer-facing product labels following a legal decision in Norway (3.02) Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger owner, PVH Corp, announced a new partnership with bankers HSBC which aims to provide supply chain facilities with the finance they need to reduce their environmental and social impact (8.10) Staying with supply chain news, a new open data platform for sectors including apparel, electronics and cosmetics has been launched in its beta phase today, in a bid to improve supply chain transparency (10.40) H&M and Bestseller were among the investors which helped agricultural innovator Materra raise US$4.5 million in seed funding to scale its climate-resistant cotton (14.04) The stories you can hear are just a sample of what's on offer with an Ecotextile News subscription, where you can read all of our exclusive stories and ideas on sustainability in the fashion and textile industry.   New subscribers can use our time-limited 15% off by inputting POD15 on this page: https://www.ecotextile.com/magazine-subscribe Hope you enjoy the podcast!

In our latest Ecotextile Talks podcast, our cotton expert Simon Ferrigno tells host Phil Berman why he'd like to see a parliamentary-style inquiry into widespread fraud in the organic cotton sector.   Ferrigno also talks about his recent investigation into organic cotton fraud which was published as a special eight-page feature in the April/May 2022 edition of Ecotextile News magazine and later posted online here.  Ferrigno reveals how, since he wrote his report, even more whistleblowers have come forward – many of them unwilling to be quoted for fear of losing their jobs – to shed more light on what Ferrigno says is a long-running problem.   “This has been a running sore,” he says. “It's a problem we've known about in the sector since the late 2000s, about 2008.   But we've started to have more whistle-blowers come forward saying this is a serious problem, the numbers don't match, the big players know the numbers don't match but they make far too much money to do anything about it, and the sector is riddled with fraud.”   Many of these whistleblowers work for organic certification bodies who claim the data they are being given by some industry bodies is erroneous and feel like they're being made the ‘scapegoats' as trust in data from India – where most organic cotton is grown – is falling.   Ferrigno suggests the problem is - that there is little incentive to report the right numbers because “they would fall dramatically and that means the profits in the sector would fall dramatically”.   Another issue, he says, is the lack of a regulatory body for the organic cotton sector; the nearest being the Indian export agency APEDA (Agricultural & Processed Food Products Export Development Agency) and the International Organic Accreditation Service – a private body that checks that certification bodies are doing what they're supposed to do.   Ferrigno tells Berman that his key message would be for the organic sector to build a direct relationship with the authentic organic cotton farmers who he says are the main victims of fraud within the current system.   “My post-article thought is that we almost need a parliamentary inquiry type approach. That is a couple of legal minds and a sector specialist to put every single big player in the industry in front of them; all the people who've worked in this for years and ask them, how do things work? What's wrong with it? And what do we do?   “You almost need to completely tear up what people have been doing for the last 40 years and start afresh because the system no longer works. People will always try to defraud the system or seek an easy solution so you do need to prepare for those future battles. What we can't do is keep doing the same thing and hoping that it's going to turn out different the next time.”

Welcome to the first episode of Editor's picks. Each week the Editor of Ecotextile News will select a few key stories from the magazine that he thinks you need to hear.  This week we report on: How fashion is reacting to the implementation of new regulations in the US that assume any product partly or wholly made in the Xinjiang region of north-west China, is linked to the region's labour camps and cannot enter the country. (2.15) Some promising new DNA-based technology that claims to pinpoint the exact origin of textile fibres and could help to filter out Xinjiang-grown cotton from global supply chains. (6.50) How a 400 million Euro investment in Finland aims to scale up the production of textile fibres made entirely from waste clothing and other textiles. (11.19) And in our fourth, and final story, we have a disturbing report from India that exposes how some garment workers on the Indian sub-continent are still suffering from illegal rates of pay, verbal abuse, and even sexual harassment. (13.55) The stories are about to hear are just a sample of what is on offer in Ecotextile News.  With a subscription, you can read all of our journalism, with many more exclusive stories, and ideas on sustainability in the fashion and textile industry.   For new subscribers please use our time-limited 15% off by inputting POD15:  https://www.ecotextile.com/magazine-subscribe

Randy Rankin, Eurofins Consumer Products Assurance Global Client Development Director for North America discusses the current key environmental, social, and governance risks facing the global textile and apparel industry. Rankin tells our host, Philip Berman, how he believes that new and proposed legislation on the fashion industry – on both sides of the Atlantic – are the key developments that should be concerning global brands right now. He cites the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, as well as similar national moves in countries such as France and Germany, as key examples. These laws aim to make companies legally responsible for environmental and human rights issues in their global supply chains and to make it much easier for victims to seek legal redress. Rankin also talks about the proposed New York Fashion Act, which would require larger companies operating in New York to map out at least half of their supply chains, from raw materials to final product. And he mentions the Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act, which bans US imports of products, such as cotton, from the Xinjiang region of China unless proof can be provided that they were not the result of forced labour. Rankin says the trend towards legislation is a new development in the industry where concern over supply chain issues has been traditionally driven by reactions to major incidents, such as the Rana Plaza disaster. However, he feels increasing concern by both consumers and – crucially – investors are creating a new landscape where legislators are demanding more transparency from the industry's often opaque supply chains. If you want to contact Randy he can be reached on  +1 717 719 0287 (if you are outside the US) or emailing randyrankin@eurofinsus.com

Alexa Raab, the global brand and communications manager for bio-materials with US chemicals giant DuPont, explains how the company's partially *bio-based Sorona PTT is helping to lower carbon emissions and increase circularity, and why its launched a Preferred Mill Network programme to support the fibre's expansion. *37% comes from corn-starch      

This episode is brought to you by Higg, the technology platform that helps companies measure, manage, and share their social and environmental sustainability data. Host Philip Berman talks to McKenzie Everett, from the cycling apparel brand Pearl izumi, about her company's commitment to sustainability, and how it uses the Higg Product Design Tools to measure, manage, and share the environmental impact of its products.  To date, 300 leading brands have used the Higg Product Design Tools to measure the impact of over 2,800 products.  In the conversation, McKenzie explains how Pearl iZumi uses these tools and the innovative way the brand invites its customers to participate in offsetting the carbon footprint of the products they purchase. 

Host Philip Berman talks to Alisia Mätz, from OEKO-TEX®, about the launch of their new tool to help facilities measure and manage their carbon emissions and water usage. Their new Impact Calculator (IC) has been implemented into the STeP certification system at the start of 2022. You can find more details about it here.       

Ken Pucker discusses why 25 years of corporate social responsibility has done little to curb carbon emissions from the textile industry, and why we urgently need new laws to save the planet. Ken is a former chief operating officer at Timberland, a lecturer, and a vocal critic of the Environmental and Social Governance Industry. His most recent article for the Harvard Business - entitled The Myth of Sustainable Fashion has gained some traction online - so we thought it was time to get him on our podcast! It was partially a take-down of the ESG industry, and how he thinks it has failed to curb the carbon excesses of the textile industry.  Currently, he's a senior Lecturer in Sustainable Business Dynamics at the Fletcher School at Tufts University in Boston. He's also been advising some of the NGOs involved in pushing forward The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act in New York State - which discuss in the podcast. We started off by talking about his time at Timberland from 1992 to 2007, with the last seven years as Chief Operating Officer. This was during a period when its CEO Jeff Shwartz pioneered a business model of Justice with the three pillars of  Environmental Stewardship, Global Human Rights, and Citizen Service. Other articles by Ken Pucker: Harvard Business Review Overselling Sustainability Reporting: We're Confusing Output with Impact   Institutional Investor   The Trillion Dollar Fantasy    

Host Philip Berman talks to Caroline Ledl, Head of Product Management Textiles for the Lenzing Group, about how her company plans to halve its CO2 emissions per tonne of product by 2030, and also be completely climate neutral by 2050.

In the latest Ecotextile Talks podcast, host Philip Berman speaks with the Lycra Company's sustainability director, Jean Hegedus, about how its eponymous stretch fibre can play a part in textile circularity. Known for being hard to extract when separating blended textile waste, Jean Hegedus provides an insight into how elastane fibre could still play an important part in circular textile supply chains, if the economics stack up.   She also adds to the debate of whether PET bottles should be leveraged amidst the textile industry's push for circularity, or whether textile-to-textile recycling is a more suitable alternative. 

In the final episode in our five-part documentary series, we get to hear two brands' views on the future of textile to textile recycling and talk to shoppers about their attitude to buying more sustainable clothes. Features interviews with: Jodi Evering, Fabric and Sustainability Manager, Filippa K; and Camilla Skjønning Jørgensen, Sustainable Materials & Innovation Manager, Bestseller

The fourth episode in our new five-part audio documentary looks at the potential impact of the 2025 Waste Directive on the reuse and recycling of textiles.  

The third episode in our new five-part audio documentary examines the challenges of sourcing enough of the right feedstock for chemical textile-to-textile recycling.   Ecotextile Talks speaks to Södra's Niclas Berg, whose job involves sourcing feedstock for the company's ‘OnceMore' process, and Lina Wiles, Head of Sustainability in Sweden for Elis, which is currently Södra's major supplier.   We also talk to:   David Stevens, CEO of the Textile Services Association (TSA) whose members meet 90-95 percent of the laundry needs of the NHS and the hospitality industry in the UK.   Martin Böschen, CEO of Texaid, one of the largest collectors and sorters of textile waste in Europe   Anna Granskog, a partner at McKinsey & Company, and co-author of their influential report in 2020: "The future of sustainable fashion."   Subscribe to our podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Google, Spotify, and Amazon Music, to automatically get alerts when we launch a new Ecotextile Talks Behind the News podcast.