The Duffel Shuffle Podcast

Adrian Ballinger is joining us live from base camp on the North Side of Mount Everest. We've collected more than 30 questions from you, the audience, over the past months, and now it is time to rapid fire answer as many as we can. With questions all across the board, we cover the following topics:- Everest costs, financial requirements and alternatives- Training and physical preparation for Everest and other climbing goals- How to progress as a climber, and comparing different training grounds- Mentorship and how to develop your personal climbing mindset- Routes, risk and other strategies- Acclimatization and other health factors- Equipment, food and staying comfortable- Sustainability and ethicsA huge thank you to those who submitted questions. We're stoked to interact with our audience, and ensure the content we're putting out is of interest to you! If you have further questions, DM us on Instagram, comment on our posts, or leave us a message on our YouTube episodes; we love hearing from you!Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Melissa Arnot Reid is not only a mountain guide, speaker and author, but she's also an athlete. Melissa is the first American woman to successfully summit and descend Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, a peak she has climbed a total of 6 times throughout her career. Melissa's new book, Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest, released on April 1, and we had a chance to connect with her following the launch to learn more. - The three kick off their conversation with a bit of talk about running and Melissa's current running endeavors.- Melissa shares a bit about her book, the process of writing, the importance in her own healing journey, and the origins of the title Enough. - Melissa dives into her mountain experiences as a child, how she found her way into guiding through RMI, and some of the challenges of being a women in a predominantly male industry. - Melissa catches us up on life today, and raising two kids by two working mountain guide parents.You can learn more about Melissa on Instagram, @melissaarnot, and through her website www.melissaarnot.com/. Melissa's new book, Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest, can be found wherever you buy your books, including on Amazon.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Beth Rodden is an American Rock Climber who has been at the top of the sport for decades. After getting her start in competition climbing, Beth moved her focus the outdoors, and is known for both hard single pitch climbs and technical big wall climbing. Beth has also been an advocate for women in climbing and has been outspoken about her struggles with an eating disorder early in her career. Beth released her memoir, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber's Story, in May of 2024, and we finally had a chance to catch up with her after a recent bouldering trip in France. - Beth shares a bit about her recent trip to Fontainebleau, and how climbing trips are truly a family affair, with both her husband and son pursuing climbing at a high level. - Beth talks about her book, the process of writing it, and the importance in her healing journey that the book had.- Beth gives a brief overview of her wild experience in Kyrgyzstan, where she and her climbing partners were held captive while on a climbing trip in her early 20's.  - In the end, Beth talks about her true joy for climbing, and while pushing grades and climbing hard are fun, she still finds joy in the easiest climbs and most simple days out. You can learn more about Beth on Instagram, @bethrodden, and through her website www.bethrodden.com. Signed copies of Beth's book can be purchased through her website. Her book, A Light through the Cracks: A Climber's Story, can also be purchased on Amazon or at your local bookstore.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Garrett Madison is considered to be one of America's premier Everest guides. In addition to leading nearly 100 clients to the summit of Mt. Everest, Garrett has made a lasting impact on the world of expedition climbing in the Himalaya and Karakoram, with notable firsts including the first guided climbs of K2 and guided linkups of Everest and Lhotse. Prior to departing for the 2025 Everest season, Garrett joined Sam and Adrian on episode 26 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Garrett shares his journey to becoming a guide, and the incredible opportunities he's had throughout his career. - Garrett's initial interest in becoming a guide started on Mt. Rainier, where he got his start in the profession through hundreds of ascents in his early years as a guide. - Garrett shares his experience with guide certification, and how his career has followed a path in which formal training/certification has not been necessary. - Garrett talks about what he's seen change in the industry, and how he's focused on mitigating the negative impacts around the increase in number of climbers each season. You can learn more about Garrett on Instagram, @garrettmadison1 and through his business, Madison Mountaineering, on Instagram @madisonmtng and online at www.madisonmountaineering.com. To learn more about his foundation, visit www.madisonmountaineering.com/foundation.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Referred to by Outside Magazine as "one of the world's most respected chroniclers of Everest," Alan Arnette is not only a journalist, but also a climber. At age 38, Alan discovered a passion for climbing and completed over 37 expeditions, including Mt. Everest and K2. Living in Colorado, he has summited all 58 of the 14,000-foot mountains over 225 times. In anticipation of the 2025 Mt Everest climbing season, Alan joins Sam and Adrian on episode 25 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast! Alan talks about his life, entering the world of climbing and mountaineering as an adult. - Alan shares his path to climbing, and how he shifted his life at age 38 and became quickly embedded into the world of mountaineering. - Alan talks about some of his experiences on expeditions, including Mt Everest and K2 expeditions that were transformative in his life as a climber. - Alan highlights the importance of having a purpose in climbing, and shares his connection to Alzheimer's advocacy after watching his mom, Ida, decline. Today, he advocates for Alzheimer's patients and caregivers through his mountain climbing.You can learn more about Alan through his blog, https://www.alanarnette.com/ and his Instagram, @arnette.alan. Alan's coaching services can be followed at https://summitcoach.org/. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

On Episode 24 of The Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Sam and Adrian dive into the nitty gritty details of what goes into planning an Everest Expedition, behind the scenes. Adrian has guided dozens of expeditions to the Himalaya, and while the industry and technology are forever changing, the process of planning a Himalayan expedition, particularly to Mt Everest, follows a fairly typical path. - Everest planning is truly a year-round activity, but Adrian tries to protect the month of July as his "no Everest" month. - Beginning in August, and lasting until the early part of January, Adrian is focused on building the best possible team. This often starts with clients, but by the permit deadline he has his clients, guides and sherpa team established. - Once the CTMA (Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association) permit deadline comes and goes, Adrian's focus turns to equipment and travel plans. With gear cache's in Tingri, Tibet and Kathmandu Nepal, as well as the US, and other supplies coming from Europe and South America, the duffel shuffle is always extensive. - Finally, with visa's secured, and equipment en route, Adrian and the team will begin their travels through China, into the TAR, and onto Basecamp. You can follow Adrian's Everest season and more on Instagram @adrianballinger, and the entire team through @alpenglowexpeditions. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Tyler Andrews is a world class endurance runner whose start on the road has paved the way for success in the mountains. He competed in two Olympic Trials, three World Championships, and found his true passion in the mountains, where he has set countless world records in the Himalaya, Andes, USA, and Africa. Not just an athlete, Tyler has also been working with athletes of all levels as a coach for more than a decade. Tyler joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 23 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast! The three talk about Tylers blast onto the scene of big mountains. - Tyler talks about his background as a professional runner, and how the cancellation of races during COVID launched him into the scene of Fastest Known Times (FKT's). - He shares some of his experiences and strategies in the Himalaya, from FKT's on peaks like Manaslu and Ama Dablam, to treks in the Khumbu. - With training as a paramount focus, Tyler talks about his own goals and strategies, as well as his business, Chaski, which offers training support to athletes of all levels. You can follow Tyler on Instagram, @tylercandrews, and learn more about his big mountain adventures. More on Tyler's training collective, Chaski, can be found online here. Additionally, Tyler's training can be followed on his Substack and you can hear about it and more on his YouTube.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Monica Piris is an expedition doctor who has been working in the Himalaya since before Adrian started climbing there, by one expedition! Together, Monica and Adrian have completed dozens of expeditions, and Monica has established herself as one of the best known high altitude doctor's on the planet. She has been a critical part of countless Everest expeditions, and has worked with hundreds of climbers to reach their goals of climbing the highest peaks in the world. Monica joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 22 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast! The three talk about Monica's career as an expedition doctor.- Monica shares how she got her start on an early expedition in the Himalaya with Russell Brice. - She sheds light on the realities of being an expedition doctor, including the day to day medical value which is primarily basic care. Generally speaking, most of the expedition doctors role is addressing minor altitude, gastrointestinal and upper respiratory illnesses. - In collaboration with the expedition leader, Monica talks about the decisions she helps make, from both a medical and logistical perspective. Part of her value is having a clear perspective as she's not on the mountain at higher altitudes. You can follow Monica on Instagram, @monica_piris, and learn more about her work through Alpenglow Expeditions' blogs and webpages. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Nick Russell has been exploring the world by snowboard for more than a decade now. What started as a career competing, has transitioned to being strictly human powered exploration to some of the worlds highest peaks. Nick's drive comes from being truly passionate about riding his snowboard, and loves travel and exploration just as much as a day in Truckee riding with friends. Sam and Adrian sit down with Nick to talk about his path to riding professionally:- The three talk about Nick's career trajectory, from growing up in a skiing family, through competing on his snowboard, and eventually following the footsteps of those before him into the world of human powered exploration. - Mentors have played a big role in many professional's lives, and the mentorship of Jeremy Jones, Jim Zellers, Hilaree Nelson, Jim Morrison and others has shaped Nick's path. - Nick's recent expedition to Papsura, completing the first snowboard descent of the iconic peak, was a tribute line to the Hilaree Nelson, and a proud accomplishment.You can learn more about Nick and his career on his Instagram, @nick_russelll and check out his new film 'Papsura: Peak of Evil' on Youtube here.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Michelle Parker has been a professional skier since she was 15 years old. Now, more than 2 decades later, Michelle is so much more than your every day professional skier (or athlete for that matter). From mentoring younger athletes to excelling at other off-season sports, Michelle's impact on the sport and the people around her is admirable. Sam and Adrian sit down with Michelle to discuss her path to being a sponsored athlete, which wasn't much of a path considering she turned pro at just 15 years old:- The three talk about her passion for skiing, how the sport has evolved and changed over the last two decades, and where she finds herself now. - Being a staple in the sport for so many years, Michelle's new role is much more that of a mentor, and she's even found her way into other professional sport circles, including a heavy involvement in downhill mountain biking. - Finally, Michelle shares the biggest part of her life these days, caring for her dad. An inspiration and motivation to her throughout her life, Michelle now finds herself navigating the challenging shift of relationship with her dad, into that of a caretaker. You can check out more about Michelle and her career on her Instagram @myshellparker. From projects with her sponsors @arcteryx and @redbull, to her own Podcast 'Care Less, Do More.', there's a lot to see of Michelle through the years. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Adrian Ballinger has been a professional mountain athlete for somewhere between 1 decade and 3 decades. While he certainly knows a thing or two about climbing mountains, he's also built a brand around himself, and has represented brands through working not only as a guide but also an athlete. Sam and Adrian discuss Adrian's trajectory as a sponsored athlete, from when he got his first support from La Sportiva in a free pair of shoes, to now where he's supported by multiple large brands such as Black Diamond, La Sportiva, and others. Adrian shares a bit about what his job duties entail, and how he's structured his support, with a clothing brand typically anchoring his support. You can check out more about Adrian and his career on his Instagram @adrianballinger, and his sponsors @blackdiamond, @tincupwhiskey, @lasportivana, @revelshine, @corosglobal and @vuarnetofficial.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Yosemite Valley legend Tommy Caldwell joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 18 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Tommy talks about this season in Yosemite Valley, and why moving his family to South Lake Tahoe has changed how he's able to climb in the valley. He also talks about his recent film, The Devil's Climb, which covers his recent trip to climb the Devils Thumb in Alaska with Alex Honnold. Tommy admits that his true passion in climbing is the sufferfest expeditions, but really he just loves climbing regardless of what it entails.  Follow Tommy on Instagram @tommycaldwell, and check out The Devil's Climb. 

Sam and Adrain catch up on their plans for winter, and what schedules look like as they head into winter. After the break, the two reflect on the podcast to-date, and share some exciting updates for future episodes. Moving forward, episodes will launch Wednesday's and be available in the early morning hours. Starting with episode 18, an editor will give The Duffel Shuffle a fresh sound, and future guests like Tommy Caldwell, Michelle Parker and Nick Russel will be joining in.The Duffel Shuffle wants to hear from you! Complete our survey and enter to win a custom Alpenglow Expeditions jacket from Black Diamond! Survey is live until Dec. 13. 

Sam and Adrian follow up on their conversation started in Episode 15. After discussion high altitude climbing and acclimatization, the two dive into a conversation about pre-acclimatization using hypoxic tents, and the program that Alpenglow Expeditions has established in Rapid Ascent. The program utilizes pre-acclimatization alongside advanced trip logistics to reduce the total expedition time by 25-50%. 

After discussing the three Piolets d'Or winners, and 60 finalists, Sam and Adrian jump into the complicated topic of high altitude climbing. The two share stories of their early experiences with altitude and talk about the basics of acclimatization and what a typical schedule might look at. Finally, they dive into the "aids" that are used for altitude climbing, from Diamox and Dexamethasone to Oxygen. A future episode will discuss the topic of Pre-Acclimatization using hypoxic tents, and what the Rapid Ascent system that Adrian has pioneered looks like.

Adrian and Sam chat about what it means to be a mountain guide. From introducing the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) to discussing the decades of guides who came before the AMGA path was the standard, this episode is a great starting point for those curious about the training and business side of the  guiding industry.

In Episode 13, Adrian and Sam sit down with David Morton. Dave is a freelance climbing and expedition guide, photographer/videographer, filmmaker, speaker-presenter, and founder of The Juniper Fund. In this episode, Dave talks about his life as a mountain guide on the worlds tallest peaks, including 10 Mt Everest Expeditions. He also shares information on his foundation, The Juniper Fund, which supports and empowers families and communities impacted by the loss of Himalayan high-altitude workers. Join us for our conversation with Dave. 

Sam and Adrian sit down with Cody Townsend. The three discuss Cody's transition to the world of ski mountaineering, and his 50 Project which has taken the world of backcountry skiing by storm. With only 4 lines remaining, Cody discusses his progress and his attempts this past spring on University Peak and Mount St. Elias. Cody also shares his newest project, The 50 Plus, which will debut in October.

Sam and Adrian sit down with Zoe and Kelby of The Adventure Addicts. These two have built a career as influencers, and they share a bit about their path, their jobs and their passions. The episode dives into the significant role influencers play in the outdoor industry, and the importance of remaining authentic. Their channel, @the_adventureaddicts on Instagram, has amassed nearly 500,000 followers, including a loyal 10 who just joined Zoe and Kelby on an Alpenglow Expeditions trip to Ecuador.

Alex Honnold makes a special appearance on The Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Sam and Adrian chat with Alex about his motivations in climbing, why he's decided high altitude climbing isn't for him, and what his future goals are, now that he's a father to two. This interview was originally recorded in April 2024, but due to technical difficulties, its release was delayed.

Emily Harrington joins Sam and Adrian to talk all things Olympics. Emily, who herself participated in an exhibition event in 2006 at the Winter Olympics, has followed the growth and expansion of competition climbing for more than 2 decades. From the early days of the World Cup circuit in which Emily competed to the addition of climbing in the Olympics in which Emily has followed as a fan, competition climbing is exploding in popularity. Emily's perspectives as at athlete provide invaluable insight into the sport. 

Cory Richards joins Sam and Adrian on this episode of The Duffel Shuffle. After publishing his memoir, The Color of Everything, Cory talks about his fond memories of exploring the worlds tallest mountains, his ongoing struggles with BiPolar 2 and mental health, and what he's up to today to feed his soul. To check out Cory's new book, visit a local bookstore, or order it online here. 

Sam and Adrian are joined by author Will Cockrell to discuss his new book titled "Everest Inc." Will, who has covered the Mt Everest climbing season as a journalist for nearly 2 decades, chronicles the development of an industry that, each spring, becomes a focal point of the outdoor media.Everest Inc.: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the WorldFeaturing original interviews with mountain guides and climbers—including Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker—this vivid and authoritative adventure history chronicles one of the least likely industries on guided climbing on Mount Everest.Anyone who has read Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air or has seen a recent photo of climbers standing in line to get to the top of Everest may think they have the mountain pretty well figured out. It's an extreme landscape where bad weather and incredible altitude can occasionally kill, but more so an overcrowded, trashed-out recreation destination where rich clients pad their egos—and social media feeds—while exploiting local Sherpas.There's some truth to these clichés, but they're a sliver of the story. Unlike any book to date, Everest, Inc. gets to the heart of the mountain through the definitive story of its greatest the Himalayan guiding industry. It all began in the 1980s with a few boot-strapping entrepreneurs who paired raw courage and naked ambition with a new style of expedition planning. Many of them are still living and climbing today, and as a result of their astonishing success, ninety percent of the people now on Everest are clients or employees of guided expeditions.Studded with quotes from original interviews with more than a hundred western and Sherpa climbers, clients, writers, filmmakers, and even a Hollywood actor, Everest, Inc. foregrounds the voices of the people who have made the mountain what it is today. And while there is plenty of high-altitude drama in unpacking the last forty years of Everest tragedy and triumph, it ultimately transcends stereotypes and tells the uplifting counternarrative of the army of journeymen and women who have made people's dreams come true, and of the Nepalis who are pushing the industry into the future.

Professional ski mountaineer Jim Morrison joins Sam and Adrian for Episode 6. The three talk about Jim's recent exploits in the Karakoram: a successful descent of the Great Trango Tower after he was unsuccessful the year prior. Jim talks about enduring some of life's lowest lows and highest highs, and consistently coming back to the joy he experiences from any adventure, near or far. 

After full team success on Mt. Everest for the Alpenglow Expeditions crew, Adrian and Sam connect in person to recap the season. After a bit of background on happenings of the South Side, the two dive into the Alpenglow team's experience on the North Side, including the great fortune they had with regard to crowds as well as challenges created by their timeline and weather. 

Episode 4 comes to you straight from Everest Base Camp! Sam and Adrian catch up and discuss what has been 4-years in the making: Alpenglow Expeditions' return to the north side of Mt. Everest since the closure as a result of the COVID-19 Pandemic. After hearing about changes on the mountain, and the current state of the Everest season, the two dive into Adrian's history on the mountain, his thoughts about the state of guiding it, and how he has made the tallest mountain in the world such a big part of his career. 

In Episode 3 of The Duffel Shuffle, Adrian and Sam sit down with ski mountaineer Caroline Gleich. The start off talking about one of Caroline's most notable accomplishments, becoming the fourth person and first woman to ski all lines in Andrew McLean's book, The Chuting Gallery. Following this accomplishment, Caroline set her sights on the greater ranges. With Everest as a goal, Caroline gained experience at altitude in places like Ecuador and Peru, before ultimately finding success on the tallest mountain in the world. Finally, Caroline talks about her current climb, running for a Senate seat in Utah. Follow her campaign and support at www.carolineforutah.com.

In Episode 2 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Adrian sit's down with Ecuadorian Mountain Guide, and Black Diamond athlete, Topo Mena. Topo talks about his start in climbing, his mentor Iván Vallejo, and a recent accident paragliding. After Topo's accident, he's been forced to adjust his perspective on life, and the love he has for the mountains. 

Sam and Adrian kick off Episode 1 with some current news, discussing a recent tragedy in the Alps and how light and fast ski touring may have played a roll, as well as beginning to cover the upcoming Everest season, which is headlined by the re-opening of the North Side of the Mountain. Following the news, the Duffel Shuffle Podcast welcomes its first guest, Emily Harrington. Emily is known for her technical rock climbing prowess, but her accomplishments span much farther. From summiting and skiing 8,000m peaks to new routes, big walls, and more, Emily is truly one of the leading mountain athletes.

Welcome to the Duffel Shuffle Podcast!