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I don't think I have ever been as nervous about interviewing someone in my entire career as I was when my former boss and colleague Suzy Menkes agreed to speak with me for this podcast. I worked side by side with Suzy for 16 years at the International Herald Tribune, which is now known as the International New York Times. Over that period she mentored me, encouraged me and guided me. Shaping my career as I moved from her assistant to fashion writer and finally the Online Style Editor of the IHT. During our time together we experienced so many amazing fashion moments, from the John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacob eras at Dior, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton, respectively, to watching first-hand the rise of LVMH, Gucci Group, Kering and the whole transformation of the fashion industry from artform to billion-dollar luxury business. Not to mention witnessing the debuts of iconic designers like Nicolas Ghesquière, Alber Elbaz, Phoebe Philo, Tom Ford, Stella McCartney, Alessandro Michele, Riccardo Tisci, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli and the list goes on. Suzy's career as a fashion critic spans close to 60 years, starting with her college days at Cambridge where she was the first female editor of the university newspaper. But even before that, as a teenager, she moved to Paris to study at the fashion school that is now known as ESMOD. So her love of fashion as a visual expression of self and society runs very deep indeed. She started her true calling as a fashion journalist at the age of 24. Working under the watchful eye of Charles Wintour, the father of Anna Wintour, who would be an early mentor for Suzy. But Suzy came into full bloom as one of the most respected fashion critics in the world during her 26-year tenure at the International Herald Tribune. Her words were read in the pages of the daily newspaper by hundreds of thousands of readers around the world and eventually by millions once the internet was born. An audience that only expanded with the advent of social media and her turn as Condé Nast's International Vogue Editor, which saw her words being translated into different languages and her reviews posted on all of the international Vogue websites. She also was the mastermind behind the idea of the modern luxury conference, events that are now commonplace but were brought into being at the IHT, and later continued at Vogue, under her guidance. Suzy is renowned for her honest, fair and insightful writing, and her ability to put fashion into the context of a wider global narrative. Today she runs her own very successful podcast called Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes, where she continues to interview the leading movers and shakers within the fashion industry. She is still asking the questions every fashion lover wants to know the answers to, but now I am lucky enough to be able to turn the tables on her a bit and ask her a few questions of my own.
Max Pearson presents a collection of this week's Witness History episodes from the BBC World Service. We hear about Althea McNish, the Trinidadian artist who designed fabric for Queen Elizabeth II. Former Vogue editor Suzy Menkes on the success of the fashion celebration, the Met Gala. The Guatemalan Bishop, Juan Gerardi, killed in his home, after presenting the conclusions of a major investigation into abuses committed during the country's civil war. We remember Harry Belafonte, with a look back at his historic duet with Petula Clark. Plus the fight by the BBC to televise Queen Elizabeth II's coronation in 1953. Contributors: Rose Sinclair, Lecturer in textile design at Goldsmiths, University of London. Gavin Douglas, Programme Leader and Senior Lecturer in fashion design at Manchester Metropolitan University. Suzy Menkes, former Vogue International Editor. Ronalth Ochaeta, former head of the Catholic Church's human rights office in Guatemala. Steve Binder, TV producer. Lady Jane Rayne Lacey, a lady in waiting at Queen Elizabeth II's coronation in 1953. (Photo: Althea McNish Credit: Getty Images)
The Met Gala takes place annually on the first Monday in May. In 1995, Vogue's editor-in-chief Anna Wintour chaired the huge fashion celebration for the first time that takes place at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. Anna changed the date of the celebrity bash from December to May and is the driving force that transformed the event from a society dinner to the star-studded affair labelled “fashion's biggest night”. The shindig has been attended by stars including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Madonna. Fashion podcaster and former Vogue International editor Suzy Menkes tells Alex Collins about her memories of the gala as it became a global sensation. (Photo: Rihanna at the 2015 Met Gala wearing a dress designed by Guo Pei. Credit: Getty Images)
In our second week of Coronation specials, Carol speaks to the queen of fashion herself, Suzy Menkes, who reveals her jewel predictions for the Coronation, who she thinks is the best-jewelled Royal, what it truly means for an item of jewellery to "belong" to the Royal Family - and much more.This episode is brought to you by @fuligemstonesPlease see: www.carolwoolton.comFollow Carol Woolton: @carolwooltonProduced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashMusic & editing by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonCreative direction by Scott Bentley @bentleycreativeIllustrations Jordi Labanda @jordilabandaRead Carol Woolton in Vogue magazine – vogue.co.uk/fashion/jewellery and carolwoolton.com Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
After first resisting her role in a storied Italian luxury family brand, Miuccia Prada spent the '90s transforming the company into a major fashion house. She accomplished that metamorphosis by infusing her designs with her own interests and internal contradictions, challenging traditional ideas of beauty and luxury. By embracing her own identity as a modern woman, Prada brought the world into her designs-–and captured imaginations around the globe. Joining Vogue's editorial team on this episode are, in order of appearance: Photographer Glen Luchford, designers Miuccia Prada and Lawrence Steele, fashion critic and journalist Suzy Menkes, and stylist Lucinda Chambers. For more on this week's episode and to access additional Vogue content, make sure to visit vogue.com/podcast. Don't miss out on new episodes of In Vogue: The 1990s on: Apple Podcasts: listen.vogue.com/iv-apple-podcasts Spotify: listen.vogue.com/iv-spotify Google: listen.vogue.com/iv-google-podcasts or wherever you listen to podcasts. Shop the Vogue Collection: https://shop.vogue.com/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
In this exceptional episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo welcomes Pierre Corthay, one of the most acclaimed shoemakers in the world and a man who has been awarded the title of "Master of Arts" by the French government (the highest distinction granted to an artisan in France similar to the "living treasures" in Japan).During this rare and in-depth discussion, you will discover the incredible path of a young man, who started in 1984 as an apprentice in the French League of Craftsmen "Les Compagnons du Devoir", who then won his stripes at John Lobb Paris and Berluti before spreading his own wings by buying an obscure small bespoke shoemaking workshop in Paris near Place Vendôme at the beginning of the 1990's. Pierre's solo beginnings are far from uncomplicated, especially in the early years. But things change in 1992, when world famous fashion columnist Suzy Menkes steps through the door of Pierre's tiny workshop and becomes enamored with Corthay's shoes. A few days later she publishes in the Herald Tribune, an article about a young, obscure Parisian shoemaker unknown to the general public. Moments later, the telephone of the Rue Volney workshop starts to ring, and not long after, the Sultan of Brunei places an order for 140 pairs of bespoke shoes! At the same time, the iconic Parisian House of Lanvin signs Corthay for all its bespoke orders, turning his story into fairytale material.This is the true story of an artisan who has inspired a whole generation of young shoemakers and who has been a driving force behind the renewed interest of many gentlemen for quality shoes and for traditional craftsmanship.Support the show (https://www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks)
Welcome to the fourth series of Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes where we are celebrating a year since I launched the first episode of my podcast: an interview with Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior.In the first episode of this new season, I am joined by Orsola de Castro who spearheaded the global movement for change within the fashion industry and now heads Fashion Revolution.For Orsola de Castro, all you need is love. Love for fashion, and love for all beautiful things - that last. Talking now, in 2021, to the passionate founder of Fashion Revolution, is a lesson about lasting. Or, as she puts it: “Re-wearing your clothes can be a revolutionary act.”Loved Clothes Last is the title of her new book, published by Penguin Random House - and a passionate ode to the rebirth of old friends, lurking in closets and stuffed into drawers.Up-cycling is so much more than a fashionable trend. For Orsola, it was born of the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh, where an eight story building, rammed with clothing workers, collapsed eight years ago in 2013, leaving a death toll of 1,134.Instead of wringing her hands, like so many in the fashion business, Orsola asked herself WHY people demanded ever cheaper clothes - and what could be done to make a lasting difference.It was then that Orsola founded fashion‘s largest global activism movement: 'Fashion Revolution’ . It was designed to change the way the industry works, and to bring cultural change in our attitude to clothes.April 19th until 25th marks Fashion Revolution Week where over 100 countries will come together to take responsibility, remember the lives lost, and demand that no one should die for fashion.In our conversation, Orsola’s urgent enthusiasm reminds us that we can all be fashion revolutionists. That our clothes deserve new lives, instead of being cast off and thrown away.Her book is a mix of practical repair with thoughtful and passionate commitment to fabric and treatment that would prolong life.The 8th Fashion Revolution week is happening across the world from the 19-25th April.There are many ways in which you can participate, spread the word and educate yourself. Let’s believe that today’s fashion and textile industry CAN change, and evolve, and become more transparent.Visit fashionrevolution.org to get involved.Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuberGraphics by Paul WallisTo find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Lucy Maguire is the trends editor at Vogue Business. She started her career in fashion by interning at Roksanda to then landing at Condè Nast as Features Intern and becoming Suzy Menkes Assistant after one month. After 2 years at Vogue International, she started her journey at Vogue Business as Editorial Assistant up to becoming today’s trends editor of the business fashion publication. In this new episode, we chatted about her career from the beginning, what she learned by working with a fashion industry icon such as Suzy Menkes and her advice on how to get a similar opportunity. Before covering industry trends, Lucy worked in the production team and she shares how this experience was useful to get her current job and how she’s started writing more and more proving she could do so. We also talked about how she comes up with fashion industry analysis and articles, how at Vogue they hire for potential rather than a finished product how the fashion industry is more and more democratize and trends coming beyond the runway. FREE MASTERCLASS 3 strategies to get a job in fashion https://www.glamobserver.com/free-webinar Questions? Email giada@glamobserver.com
Welcome to my third season of Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes.This week I am joined by Giancarlo Giammetti “Honorary President of the Valentino Fashion House”. Giancarlo has been so much more than a business partner, who shares with Valentino a passion for big boats, high mountains and creating the house of Valentino - which has earned a place in fashion history. The hyper-cultured Giammetti, who had first studied architecture, has brought a sleek elegance to his various homes, where he has collected art and explored modern and contemporary work. Now that the Valentino company has an independent life, Giancarlo can look back at his many achievements, from building both a mighty business and a personal Valentino “family”. Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
We’re excited to bring you a new series from Vogue -- In Vogue: The 1990s. If you miss the 90s for all its nostalgia, fashion, and culture, you're going to love this episode with an intimate never-before-heard interview with Miuccia Prada. After first resisting her role in a storied Italian luxury family brand, Miuccia Prada spent the '90s transforming the company into a major fashion house. She accomplished that metamorphosis by infusing her designs with her own interests and internal contradictions, challenging traditional ideas of beauty and luxury. By embracing her own identity as a modern woman, Prada brought the world into her designs-–and captured imaginations around the globe. Joining Vogue’s editorial team on this episode are, in order of appearance: Photographer Glen Luchford, designers Miuccia Prada and Lawrence Steele, fashion critic and journalist Suzy Menkes, and stylist Lucinda Chambers. If you like what you hear, subscribe to In VOGUE: The 1990s now on your preferred podcast app: Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id1526206712 Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/4uJdNOg4EtQAqlnfxLo7wX Or wherever you get your podcasts. For more on this week’s episode and to access additional Vogue content, make sure to visit vogue.com/podcast.
After first resisting her role in a storied Italian luxury family brand, Miuccia Prada spent the '90s transforming the company into a major fashion house. She accomplished that metamorphosis by infusing her designs with her own interests and internal contradictions, challenging traditional ideas of beauty and luxury. By embracing her own identity as a modern woman, Prada brought the world into her designs-–and captured imaginations around the globe. Joining Vogue’s editorial team on this episode are, in order of appearance: Photographer Glen Luchford, designers Miuccia Prada and Lawrence Steele, fashion critic and journalist Suzy Menkes, and stylist Lucinda Chambers. For more on this week’s episode and to access additional Vogue content, make sure to visit vogue.com/podcast. Don’t miss out on new episodes of In Vogue: The 1990s on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google, or wherever you listen to podcasts.
In episode 4 of season 2, we go to Paris to speak with Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Chanel Fashion, who has worked with the famous Paris company for 30 years. Our conversation coincides with Chanel's SS/21 show at Paris Fashion Week. Bruno has been instrumental in expanding the company’s presence in the fashion arena, first with Karl Lagerfeld and subsequently with the late designer’s right hand, Virginie Viard.Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
In Episode 2 of Season 2, Suzy is joined by Paul Smith who’s celebrating 50 years in fashion. Smith reveals the plans for his anniversary, and how - with his wife Pauline - he has built the Paul Smith label over half a century.Sir Paul, knighted by the Queen of England in 2000, opens his soul in the conversation, revealing his wisdom - showing how he built his entire fashion empire, root to branch, over the last five decades. His company was founded in one tiny store in Nottingham and has grown into a global business in five continents.Smith takes Suzy through the layers of quirky objects and funky toy animals sent to his London studio by his doting clients. There is probably a bicycle buried somewhere among the lines of books!Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
For the second season of Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes, the first four episodes are dedicated to the four fashion capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris – which are busy getting ready for Spring/Summer 2021 Ready-To-Wear.In episode 1, Suzy is joined by Valerie Steele, the indomitable Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York, where she has presented more than 25 blockbuster exhibitions since joining FIT in 1997.Steele has been a leading figure in raising international awareness of the cultural significance of fashion, and is a noted academic in the field of fashion studies, sharing her extensive knowledge of the fashion industry and the history of fashion in her more than 25 books.This intelligent and engaging educator, recognised from Guatemala to Japan, has a wide and fascinating reach, her audience eager to hear her about what we wear and why.Her scholarly vision and understanding of clothes through the centuries is second to none, and she is admired by her contemporaries and students alike.As the world changes – and with it attitudes to women, the LGBQT community, and fashion itself – Valerie brings us crystal clarity and a glimpse of what our new post-Covid world might be.To learn more about Dr. Valerie Steele and stay connected, please follow the Museum at FIT @museumatfit on Instagram, Twitter, (https://twitter.com/museumatFIT) YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMuseumatFIT) and Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/TheMuseumAtFIT).Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter
Chapter 21: Silks, Jewels and Curious Beasts British journalist and fashion critic, Suzy Peta Menkes OBE, reads the twenty-first chapter of Salvatore Ferragamo's autobiography, Shoemaker of Dreams.
For the season finale of this first series of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by Rosita Missoni and her granddaughter Margherita Missoni Amos.The Missoni family reflects the essence of Italy. Like a fashion tree of life, the company roots go back almost 70 years to when Rosita and Ottavio “Tai” Missoni met, married, and made knitwear both joyous and gorgeous.In this episode, the two archetypal Italian fashionistas talk to Suzy about their fascinating life in fashion. In true Italian style, the baton has been handed on from one generation to the next: Matriarch Rosita, on the edge of 90, shares memories about her early days of knitting an empire with husband Tai when they founded their company in 1953; that same passion was passed on to daughter Angela, the company’s creative leader for over two decades; and now granddaughter Margherita focuses on eco-friendly and socially responsible elements for M Missoni – future-thinking values that are as good a fit for our times as their famous colourful zigzag knitwear.Rosita and Margherita share family memories, from Rosita’s mushroom gathering to her children’s achievements; from the joy of family life to the sadness of her husband’s passing in the same year as their son Vittorio. At that same time came Margherita’s gift to Rosita of a great grandchild.The indomitable strength of family has encouraged the Missonis to survive and prosper, with all their joyful colours and textures knitted in – and freshly foraged mushrooms to stir into the fashion stew.I do hope you enjoyed these 13 conversations as much as I did, and look forward to connecting with you again for season two in September where we have already lined-up some special guests. Thank you for listening.Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
In episode 12 Suzy talks to Christian Louboutin, famously known for his shoes – sexy shoes, easy shoes, even fetishistic footwear. Christian Louboutin, shoemaker to the stars, has a symbol that defines his inventions: a scarlet sole.Here he shares his formative experiences, design motivations and plans for the future.It is nearly 30 years since the designer made red his signature colour for his own brand, after formative years being dazzled by the showgirls at the Folies Bergère, then working for famous French shoe designer Charles Jourdan, and ultimately becoming shoemaker to Hollywood stars. Jennifer Lopez is just one of his many faithful followers.It all started in the museum in Paris that Christian walked past on his way to school – the Palais de la Porte Dorée, where the current exhibition of his work is making visitors as fascinated by footwear as he is himself. On view are collections inspired by his Pop Art period, his sophisticated creations for the chic and famous, as well as a splendid cooperation with Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, all put together by curator Olivier Gaubert.This shoe expert, whose scarlet lacquered sole was inspired by his assistant’s nail polish, has further interests beyond his glam handbags and super-high heels. In 2013 he introduced a ‘Nudes’ shoe collection in eight different shades, supporting inclusivity and diversity by emphasising the importance of embracing all skin tones.Among other fascinations are a passion for gardening and a house in Portugal, where he will soon open a discreetly glamorous hotel by the beach.As with the rest of his projects, you can be sure that Christian Louboutin will be putting his best shoe-covered foot forward.Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram & Twitter @suzymenkesvogue
For episode eleven Suzy speaks to Iris van Herpen and Game of Thrones actress Carice van Houten as they collaborate for a digital presentation for this season's Autumn/Winter 2020-21 Haute Couture Week. The fashion industry has had to rethink how to present the collections, and each house has turned to submitting digital presentations instead of the traditional live-show format.One such designer on the couture schedule I have been lucky enough to catch up with is Iris van Herpen. Here she talks to me about the short film she has submitted to the Fédération de la Haute Couture and how she called upon her fellow Dutch friend and Game of Thrones actress, Carice van Houten, as muse, inspiration and collaborator on her fashion film, “Transmotion”.Van Houten plays a far more gentle character in Iris’s fashion performance than she does on GOT. “Iris’s work feels like it lifts you up and completes something in you, like a second skin and another dimension,” Carice says.In our interview, Iris describes the “Transmotion” couture dress that Carice wears as “a diaphanous bloom of silver white organza, and translucent layers within an undulating form, tracing the fluid outline of the creation”. Made by Iris under lockdown, its name refers to “visionary or creative perceptions of the seasons and the visual scenes of motion in art and literature”.“I believe fashion has a big influence on who we are today and really reflects where we are heading, inspiring us to recreate ourselves and to re-see our identities and even how we perceive ourselves,” Iris says.“The red hair was 50 per cent of my character,” Carice says of her GOT role as Melisandre, the Red Priestess. “I felt so empowered, and in fact the dress – which is the opposite of Iris’s dresses – was really restricting, but it definitely helped me to build that character.”Iris’ couture film, directed by Ryan McDaniels, references Dutch graphic art and at the same time mirrors the Iris spirit, which mixes high modernity with history. Iris has called upon her Dutch heritage not only by using Carice – but also by referencing Dutch artist Escher as an influence.Iris began showing in Paris in 2007 and I watched her quickly move from Ready-to-Wear to Couture – which she unofficially calls “tech-couture” – where in her hands delicate embroideries and traditional techniques are “replaced by code”. The designer is even known for stating, “Tech just can’t keep up with me!”Her extraordinary skill is in melding the soft and tough elements of the natural world with the forces of technology and innovation, merging art and science with craftsmanship and technology. Using a diaphanous bloom of white silk organza, like fronds frozen in time, and delicate crystalline filaments that sprout from the centre, the “Transmotion” dress is a masterpiece of couture. Combining the futuristic with the naturalistic, “branches” of satin are laser cut, but hand stitched, to form central roots like mycorrhizal networks.With her knowledge of fashion, her understanding of science and her skill in melding the two different characters, Iris’s work links to creation, growth and regeneration. Add to that the woman-power expressed by Carice in Iris’ film and in Game of Thrones, there is plenty to discover in this story about the film, the dress, the star and how all are close to Iris’s heart.Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram & Twitter @suzymenkesvogue
Os comentários polémicos sobre transexualidade continuam a prejudicar a autora britânica. Suzy Menkes está de saída da Vogue.
In episode ten of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by Michael Kors, whose American sportswear label is celebrating its 40th anniversary next year.He is marking the event with a thoughtful reappraisal of his past and future, where highs have included dressing stars from stage, screen and state, from Jennifer Lopez to Angelina Jolie to Michelle Obama, whose bared shoulders the designer brought to the fore.Michael talks to Suzy about building his own label in the 1980s and designing for Celine in Paris from 1998 to 2004, before expanding his brand in the US, and ultimately across the world.Kors has not only built a fashion business but also a powerful luxury accessories empire, under the name Capri Holdings Limited. This conglomerate includes his own mighty label and also Jimmy Choo and Versace.The current pandemic brings a thoughtful response from Michael Kors, who is the first American designer to miss the September timetable of fashion week shows and move his own presentations to October/November. His insightful vision on reducing the speed and the amount of fashion in a post-Covid era is enlightening.Here is a chance to hear the real Michael Kors, and to learn that feeding the hungry is as important to him as dressing the famous.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
In episode nine of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by DURO OLOWU, the fashion designer who works at the crossroads of fashion, art and culture. The wonder of Duro Olowu is that he has developed himself as an art curator as well as a creative fashion artist. The two fit hand to glove. He is autonomously able to express himself artistically through his fashion creations, or through selecting art for museum exhibitions.The remarkable Nigerian-born creator’s greatest skill is in the delicate, artistic mix of those joyous patterns. In his elegant embrace, the African influences come alongside hyper-sophisticated silks created for Parisian haute couture. Together they express the originality and the elegance of exceptional fashion work which is evident on the walls and rails of his London shop.Duro’s instinctive love of fabrics stem from a childhood in Lagos with a Nigerian father and Jamaican mother. He is married to Thelma Golden, an American curator heading up a museum in Harlem, and his own deeply artistic connections are currently on show at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago.The female visitors to this exhibition opening in February 2020 were dressed almost entirely in a rainbow coalition of his designs, and his famous fashion clients - which he is too discreet to reveal - is headed by Michele Obama.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
Welcome to the very first episode of the ETHICAL FASHION PODCAST! In this episode, your hosts Simone Cipriani and Clare Press speak to International Vogue Editor Suzy Menkes; Roberta Annan, founder of the African Fashion Foundation; writer and sustainability consultant Rachel Arthur; and Helsinki Fashion Week's Evelyn Mora. Up for discussion: What's wrong with the old system of international fashion weeks? How we might redesign the format to make it less polluting and more inclusive. Does everything have to go digital? How can we ensure no one gets left behind? Follow us on Instagram @ethicalfashion www.ethicalfashioninitiative.org Our music is from the original production From Kabul to Bamako, music directed by Saïd Assadi. This podcast was produced with the financial support of the European Union. Its contents are the sole responsibility of ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative and do not necessarily reflect the views of the European Union. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
In episode seven of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by the philanthropist and supermodel, Natalia Vodianova.Her story is a fairy tale – with a mighty dollop of reality and grit. Growing up in Russia, she helped her mother sell fruit in the market; looked after her sister, who has special needs; and hobbled through a childhood in which her family could not afford to buy new shoes for her growing feet.Then, as in all the best stories, she became a model in her teens, married a British aristocrat, and was all set for her happy ever after.It was during the terrible Beslan massacre, when terrorists seized a Russian school, when she had the realisation that her life – glamorous but empty – needed an opportunity to give back.Her new path of philanthropy was born with the Naked Heart Foundation, which she established to build playgrounds and parks for abandoned, orphaned, disabled and special needs children across Russia and giving hope and support to despairing families.Photographed by the world’s greatest talents and still in demand as a perennial supermodel, Natalia’s Fabulous Fund Fairs continue to support children in need, while other energetic projects include co-founding the Elbi app, for micro donations to a host of charities, and Flo – a women’s health platform.Natalia met her fiancé, Antoine Arnault, on the set of a 2008 Louis Vuitton campaign. They plan to marry this summer, Coronavirus willing. She is looking after the kids’ role in the party, while Antoine is arranging the grown-up aspects.And the wedding dress? Natalia confided in me the inspiration behind the design, but you will have to listen to this podcast to find out exactly what!Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
In this sixth episode of “Creative Conversations”, Suzy is joined by an entrepreneur with true vision – Federico Marchetti, Chairman and CEO of YOOX Net-A-Porter Group, who is celebrating the 20th anniversary of his company.In 2000, Marchetti founded YOOX, the world’s first lifestyle e-commerce destination –before the launch of Facebook, Instagram, and the iPhone. In 2015, YOOX and Net-A-Porter merged to create YOOX Net-A-Porter Group, which was acquired by the luxury goods conglomerate, Richemont, in 2018.Federico Marchetti has changed the way people shop. Selling upmarket designer clothes online was almost unimaginable at the start of the new millennium, but he convinced many luxury fashion houses to take their initial steps in the digital space. He found a way to bridge the gap between luxury brands and the internet through e-commerce.Today, YOOX Net-A-Porter serves more than 4.3 million customers in 180 countries and has more than 1 billion visits to its online destinations every year, transforming the luxury shopping experience through artificial intelligence, image recognition, and big data.Federico is dedicated to social and environmental engagement, creating a culture of inclusivity and gender balance, and boosting the digital skills of young people through coding tutoring and Digitali e Uguali, which donates laptops to schoolchildren in Italy.In 2019, alongside HRH The Prince of Wales, Marchetti committed to The Modern Artisan Project – a unique partnership between YOOX Net-A-Porter and The Prince’s Foundation to promote textile skills training in the UK – and recently collaborated with Vogue to launch the Vogue YOOX Challenge – a contest that challenges start-ups to commit to sustainability and innovation for the responsible fashion of the future.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkesThis podcast is also available on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIYbap3g8AQ&t=2s
In this fifth episode of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by the young dynamic designer, Marine Serre.Marine’s second-ever collection, A Radical Call for Love, created for her own label for Autumn/Winter 2017, was designed in the wake of the Paris and Brussels attacks while she was working at Balenciaga, and featured what would become Marine's signature: a crescent-moon motif.This led to Marine winning the prestigious 2017 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Rihanna presented her with the award, while Karl Lagerfeld championed her work and became her mentor. This young French woman, raised in rural France, was trained at a Belgian fashion school and can be seen as a fashion prophet. She seems to have seen the future and expressed it in clothes. Only a fashion prophet could have shown a collection that included images of flames before the Australian bush fires, and masked the faces of her models before the world knew of the Covid-19 pandemic. It has been a tumultuous ride for the designer’s small team, but with her use of regenerated materials, the upcycling skills she inherited from her grandfather at his “brocante” (flea market) and the support of Lagerfeld as well as Adrian Joffe of Dover Street Market, Marine has achieved a cult following.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkesThis podcast is also available on YouTube https://youtu.be/NItGYVaYbc4
In Episode 4 of her new podcast series, Suzy hears the moving and uplifting life story of the Creative Director of Balmain, Olivier Rousteing.Hear the unique story of how Olivier Rousteing and his “Balmain Army” have fought for diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry for nearly ten years. An inspiration to us all, his many supporters include Beyoncé, the Kardashian clan, Rihanna... oh! And Michelle Obama.Olivier understood the power of social media very early on in his career, and has adapted to the digital world seamlessly. But he reveals that it was just one comment from Suzy backstage that led him to believe in himself and become the star designer he is today, building on the allure and power of women. He also shares his feelings about being raised by adoptive parents in Bordeaux, and tells Suzy the riveting and dramatic story behind the new documentary about him, Wonder Boy, revealing his struggle to find his birth mother.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
In this third episode of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by the thoughtful, funny and profound designer Alber Elbaz, as he enters a new fashion phase with the Richemont Group. Alber talks us through his career, from Geoffrey Beene to Guy Laroche then Yves Saint-Laurent Rive Gauche and 14 years at Lanvin, where he earned a reputation for creating looks loved by women the world over.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
For her second episode under lockdown, Suzy Menkes looks up - at the fantastical hats of milliner Stephen Jones.Working with Christian Dior - and as the imaginative hatter of choice for Comme des Garçons and Marc Jacobs - Stephen Jones explains how headwear is a signal of communication and self-expression.The mighty milliner, with a witty sense of humour, defines designing for creative fashion houses and for clients as like going to a cocktail party: “You will have a different conversation and present yourself differently with each person in the room," Stephen says.The conversation takes us through his Saint Martins years, the late 1970s London club scene and the creation of his own label. Stephen's description of that period? “Our drug was Fashion’’.We also discover how Stephen’s relationship with Rihanna started - in fact - with Suzy herself.Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
For her first episode, Suzy welcomes Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Creative Director Femme of Christian Dior - the first woman to lead the brand, and one who has enriched it with her distinctive feminist and artistic vision. Whilst we are all in lockdown, Suzy and Maria Grazia discuss feminism, Couture, design inspiration - and growing up in a fashion family. Produced by Natasha Cowan.Edited by Tim Thornton.Music by @joergzuber.Graphics by Paul Wallis.Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes
Towards the end of last year, we had the pleasure of working with a really great client, Puig (a third-generation family-owned fashion and fragrance business based in Barcelona and Paris, that owns brands including Dries Van Noten, Paco Rabanne and Christian Louboutin (beauty), to explore lots of topics close to our heart. It also gave us the opportunity to invite global fashion guru, Jessica Michault, to be part of our trip to Paris and Barcelona. Having studied political science - not your typical route into an incredible career in fashion - Jessica’s first job at 23 was as a research assistant at the International Herald Tribune. After about a year, ‘not knowing anything about fashion, nor who Suzy Menkes was’, Jessica applied for a job to be Suzy Menkes’ assistant. Her naivety was actually a blessing, as without it Jessica may never have had the courage to apply for and subsequently win the much-coveted job as assistant to the world respected fashion critic. Working side-by-side Suzy Menkes for 16 years has given Jessica the best training a fashion journalist could have, which has led to her working with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron and Mulberry, plus having articles published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion and throughout multiple Vogue magazines worldwide. Jessica is editor-at-large of the biannual fashion bible ODDA Magazine, SVP Industry Relations for Launchmetrics (the ultimate marketing platform & analytics solution for fashion and beauty), writer at L'Officiel Paris and Vogue Japan, and ignited digital fashion journalism with her 60 Second Fashion Reviews and Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast. In our short and sweet interview, our founder, Jodi Muter-Hamilton and Jessica discuss: What it’s like to work with Suzy Menkes for 16 years The pace of fashion from 60 second fashion show reviews to collectable fashion publications How data can support sustainability If we still travel around the world to see for fashion shows in the future How Jessica’s love of horse riding keeps her grounded www.jessicamichault.com www.blackneondigital.com
Towards the end of last year, we had the pleasure of working with a really great client, Puig (a third-generation family-owned fashion and fragrance business based in Barcelona and Paris, that owns brands including Dries Van Noten, Paco Rabanne and Christian Louboutin (beauty), to explore lots of topics close to our heart. It also gave us the opportunity to invite global fashion guru, Jessica Michault, to be part of our trip to Paris and Barcelona. Having studied political science - not your typical route into an incredible career in fashion - Jessica’s first job at 23 was as a research assistant at the International Herald Tribune. After about a year, ‘not knowing anything about fashion, nor who Suzy Menkes was’, Jessica applied for a job to be Suzy Menkes’ assistant. Her naivety was actually a blessing, as without it Jessica may never have had the courage to apply for and subsequently win the much-coveted job as assistant to the world respected fashion critic. Working side-by-side Suzy Menkes for 16 years has given Jessica the best training a fashion journalist could have, which has led to her working with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron and Mulberry, plus having articles published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion and throughout multiple Vogue magazines worldwide. Jessica is editor-at-large of the biannual fashion bible ODDA Magazine, SVP Industry Relations for Launchmetrics (the ultimate marketing platform & analytics solution for fashion and beauty), writer at L'Officiel Paris and Vogue Japan, and ignited digital fashion journalism with her 60 Second Fashion Reviews and Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast. In our short and sweet interview, our founder, Jodi Muter-Hamilton and Jessica discuss: What it’s like to work with Suzy Menkes for 16 years The pace of fashion from 60 second fashion show reviews to collectable fashion publications How data can support sustainability If we still travel around the world to see for fashion shows in the future How Jessica’s love of horse riding keeps her grounded www.jessicamichault.com www.blackneondigital.com
Jessica Michault a highly respected journalist with over 20 years of experience covering the fashion, luxury and beauty industry. She is also the editor-at-large of the biannual fashion bible ODDA Magazine. Her 60 Second Fashion Reviews have brought fashion show criticism to the social media sphere and her in-depth one-on-one interviews with some of fashion's leading movers and shakers, via her Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, has created another avenue for fashion lovers to connect with the industry. Previously, Michault led Nowfashion as its editor-in-chief chief, in charge of all editorial content for the show image website. Prior to her role at Nowfashion, Michault was at the International Herald Tribune in Paris for 16 years, where she worked with Suzy Menkes covering the shows, writing editorial features for the paper's style pages and completing special reports on the luxury and watch markets. Whilst at the paper, Michault was appointed the online style editor. In addition to the International Herald Tribune, Michault's work has been published in the New York Times, Italian Vogue, Vogue Japan, Vogue Arabia L'Officiel Paris, Harper's Bazaar Brazil, GQ Germany, Mixte and Elite Traveler magazine. She also regularly covers the fashion industry for France 24 television. Michault was born and raised in San Francisco but has been based in Paris for many years, where she lives with her husband and three daughters
Neste episódio do Prêt-à-Porter, recebemos no estúdio da ESCS fm o jornalista de moda e lifestyle do jornal Observador Mauro Gonçalves. Falámos sobre a carreira de jornalistas, as especificidades do jornalismo de moda, as semanas de moda, Suzy Menkes e muito mais. Moda não é só roupa, moda é muito mais do que isso! As if!
The first thing you notice when you meet Arthur Arbesser, besides his head of floppy hair and big round glasses, is his upbeat attitude. He radiates nothing but positivity and you get the impression that he always has a sunny side view on the world. It’s a perception that is further supported by the fashion he creates – which is colorful, often with graphic motifs, and rich with artistic references that span many different fields, from architecture and painting to sculpture and ballet. His sartorial style is eclectic and original and it perfectly dovetails with his own creative history as a designer born and raised in Vienna, Austria, to go on to study at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College in London, and for many years now calling Milan his home. Arthur’s talent was right off the bat. Shortly after graduating from college, he was hired by Giorgio Armani and worked alongside the famed Italian designer for 7 years before deciding to launch his own signature brand in January 2013. That same year he was a winner of the “Who Is On Next?” competition in Italy, which is designed to highlight talented young designers. From this, Arthur’s work began to generate positive reviews by the likes of Suzy Menkes, and in 2015 he became an LVMH Prize finalist. Today, Arthur is balancing two creative hats on his head; not only does he design for his own brand but since September 2017, he has held the position of creative director of the esteemed Italian brand, Fay. In fact, we met up in the headquarters of Fay in Milan to do this podcast interview just as he was preparing for his next presentation for the house. It was there that he opened up about just how deeply architecture and design influence his old world approach to fashion and how not being an Italian designer helped make his mark in Milan, as well as what it takes to simultaneously design for two fashion houses. After our chat, what I took away from our conversation was that as much as Arthur is an upbeat fun loving person, he takes his work and his love of fashion very very seriously.
Valerie Steele’s deep contextual dives into the history of fashion set her apart from other academics and curators—two identities she embodies in equal parts. The chief curator and director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (since 1997 and 2003, respectively), she has produced upwards of 25 exhibitions while also, over the past 15 years, leading the institution. No corner of fashion is out of bounds for the charismatic and multifaceted Steele. Past exhibition subjects have ranged from corsets to gothic fashion to queerness to the color pink. Writing, too, has been a major part of her unabating scholarship, as is evident in her authoring or co-authoring of nearly 30 books over the past few decades—the first of which, on fashion and eroticism, was a product of her final Ph.D. dissertation at Yale in the early ’80s. For Steele, clothes aren’t just tangible garments—they’re the constant medium through which to better understand things like politics, psychology, sexuality, and time. (Perhaps not surprisingly, in 2012, Suzy Menkes of The New York Times dubbed her “the Freud of Fashion”—a moniker Steele relishes.) Her rigorous, vibrant exhibitions—and her career as a whole—are the ultimate clapback to academics who once snubbed her studies as frivolous. Her next Museum at FIT showcase, “Paris: The Capital of Fashion” (on view from Sept. 6, 2019, to Jan. 4, 2020), collects roughly 100 objects that exemplify the “cultural construction” of the French city, from the 18th century to the present, contextualizing the evolution of artisanal haute couture into big business. On this episode of Time Sensitive, Steele and Spencer Bailey discuss her ongoing obsession with the city of Paris, academia’s continued distaste for fashion as a subject of worthy inquiry, her circuitous path to FIT (she dropped out of school at 15 and lived in a “lesbian-feminist commune” before attending Dartmouth for undergrad and Yale for her Ph.D.), and why luxury menswear is on the rise.
Suzy Menkes is a leading British journalist and fashion critic. Formerly the fashion editor for the International Herald Tribune at the time of this interview she had been International Fashion Editor for 19 editions of Vogue online.
Renowned fashion journalist Suzy Menkes once called superstar designer Alber Elbaz a "master of improvisation." That instinctual, passionate disposition was on full display onstage at VOICES, as Elbaz waxed on lyrically about what he’s learned since his abrupt firing from Lanvin in 2015. Sign up for BoF’s Daily Digest newsletter here: http://bit.ly/BoFnews. Ready to become a BoF Professional? For a limited time, enjoy 25% discount on an annual membership, exclusively for podcast listeners. Simply, click here: http://bit.ly/2KoRRBH, select the Annual Package and use code PODCASTPRO at the checkout. For comments, questions, or speaker ideas, please e-mail: podcast@businessoffashion.com.For all sponsorship enquiries, it’s: advertising@businessoffashion.com.
Katy makes no secret of the fact that she records this podcast in her pyjamas, but she may need to up her game after this week's interview with Vogue's legendary international editor, Suzy Menkes, about the European fashion scene and the death of iconic French designer Hubert de Givenchy. In other news, Dominic comes clean about his traumatic experience as a 12-year-old child star in Siberia and gets mixed up (like everyone else this week) between Slovenia and Slovakia. Plus: happy Finns, clowns, and a PR coup for some beer-brewing Belgian monks. Thanks for listening! If one weekly Europe fix isn't enough, check out our Facebook page where we post all kinds of interesting links from around the continent: https://www.facebook.com/europeanspodcast/ See you next week when we'll have our first-ever Michelin-starred chef on the show! Twitter: @EuropeansPod Instagram: @europeanspodcast
I veckans program bjuder vi på några av höjdpunkterna från intervjuserien Stil Sommar. I Stil Sommar träffade Susanne Ljung världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik som alla delade med sig av sina drivkrafter och erfarenheter. Nu återvänder vi till några av intervjuerna och hör Susanne Ljung berätta om sina möten med Kanye West, Rick Owens, Suzy Menkes och Jonny Johansson. Alla intervjuer finns även att lyssna på i sina helhet via vårt poddarkiv. Veckans programledare är David Mehr i samtal med Susanne Ljung.
Alla kanske inte vet vem Kim Hastreiter är, men om du är någonting i New York, så är sannolikheten stor att Kim Hastreiter vet vem du är. Hon känner de flesta i kreativa yrken mode, musik, media och konst och gör hon det inte så ser hon till att lära känna dem. Ofta blir de kompisar. Och kompisar med andra av hennes vänner och nya samarbeten uppstår. Men så är Kim Hastreiter en genuint nyfiken person. 1984 var hon med om att grunda den popkulturella tidningen Paper Magazine, där hon än idag arbetar som chefredaktör. Alla kanske inte vet vem Kim Hastreiter är, men om du är någonting i New York, så är sannolikheten stor att Kim Hastreiter vet vem du är. Hon känner de flesta i kreativa yrken mode, musik, media och konst och gör hon det inte så ser hon till att lära känna dem. Ofta blir de kompisar. Och kompisar med andra av hennes vänner och nya samarbeten uppstår. Men så är Kim Hastreiter en genuint nyfiken person. 1984 var hon med om att grunda den popkulturella tidningen Paper Magazine, där hon än idag arbetar som chefredaktör. I dagens avsnitt av Stil Sommar reste vi till New York för att träffa chefredaktören Kim Hastreiter. Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 där vi i åtta exklusiva intervjuer går på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Rob Halford från bandet Judas Priest har inte bara varit med och format metalmusikens sound. Han har också gett den dess stil. Det var nämligen Rob Halford som började med att klä sig i svart läder och blänkande nitar. I veckans Stil Sommar träffar vi mannen som har klätt en hel musikgenre. Rob Halford har alltid tyckt att scenkläder är viktiga. Redan som liten tänkte han lika mycket på vad hans idoler hade på sig, som på musiken de spelade. Det är därför kanske inte så konstigt att han lade stor vikt vid sina egna scenkläder när han själv började spela i band. Rob Halford ville att musiken som Judas Priest spelade skulle stämma överens med kläderna han bar på scen. De skulle båda vara lika hårda. Ledordet blev läder. Och nitar. Kryddat med piskor och handbojor. Stilen blev snabbt kopierad av andra metalmusiker. Idag har den nästintill blivit en uniform. I veckans Stil Sommar reser vi till London och träffar Rob Halford. I programmet berättar han om hur han fick idén till sin läderlook, varför han funderar på att ändra sitt namn och vad hans 89-åriga mamma egentligen tycker om Judas Priests musik. Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 där vi i åtta exklusiva intervjuer går på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Suzy Menkes är en av världens mest inflytelserika modejournalister. Hon har varit verksam i snart 50 år, skrivit för några av de största dagstidningarna och blivit en av modets mest respekterade kritikerröster. I veckans Stil Sommar reser vi till London och träffar Suzy Menkes. Suzy Menkes har arbetat för dagstidningar som The Times, The Independent och International Herald Tribune, men skriver numera för Vogues alla internationella onlinepublikationer, från England till Kina (utom USA). För sin gärning som journalist har hon belönats med både den brittiska imperieorden och den franska hederslegionen. Suzy Menkes har rapporterat från alla internationella modevisningar och är känd för sina sakliga och pålästa recensioner där hon sätter mode i ett sammanhang. Hon ryter sällan till och försöker alltid förhålla sig positiv. Hon har därför blivit en mycket omtyckt kritiker som folk lyssnar på.I veckans Stil Sommar berättar Suzy Menkes om när hon började skriva om mode, varför hon gång blev utkastad från en modevisning i Paris och hur 1960-talets kvinnliga frigörelse påverkar vilka kläder hon väljer att sätta på sig.Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 där vi i åtta exklusiva intervjuer går på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Margareta van den Bosch brukar beskrivas som en av den svenska modevärldens mesta makthavare. Men hon verkar i det dolda. I 20 år var Margareta van den Bosch chefsdesigner på H&M - deras allra första. Det var hon som bestämde över färger, mönster och modeller på plagg som skulle komma att sitta på hundratusentals människor världen över. Idag arbetar hon som kreativ rådgivare åt företaget och ansvarar för deras internationella modesamarbeten. I modebranschen är Margareta van den Bosch ett välkänt namn. Hon syns ofta sittandes på första raden på modevisningar i Paris, London och hon är bundis med flera av de största modeskaparna i världen. Men för människor som inte är en del av modesvängen är hon inte alls särskilt bekant.Hon ger sällan intervjuer, och gör hon det så tycker hon inte särskilt mycket om att prata om sig själv, utan lyfter hellre fram sina kollegor. Hon avstår helst från att bli fotograferad och hennes röst låter snarare försiktig än tvärsäker. Kanske är det därför som hon kallats för den dolda makthavaren i svenskt mode. För makt, det har hon. Hennes sinne för pyrande trender och vad som kommer att bli nästa stora stilriktning är ett av skälen till att H&M idag inte bara är ett av Sveriges största, utan ett av världens största modeföretag.Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 där vi i åtta exklusiva intervjuer går på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Som chefsdesigner på Acne Studios är Jonny Johansson en av Sveriges mest framgångsrika modeskapare. Egentligen hade han tänkt bli musiker, men istället blev det mode. Hur det gick till berättar han i veckans Stil Sommar. 1996 lades grunden till Acne Studios då Jonny Johansson, tillsammans med tre vänner, bestämde sig för att bilda ett slags kreativt kollektiv vars mål var att göra allt mellan himmel och jord - reklam, film, design, inredning och mode. Inspirationen kom från Andy Warhols Factory. För det nystartade företaget började Jonny Johansson designa jeans. Tighta stuprörsjeans med röda sömmar, som snabbt blev populära. Men sedan dess har mycket hänt. Idag är Jonny Johansson kreativ chef för Acne Studios och därmed övergripande ansvarig för modehusets kollektioner med plagg som i internationell press ofta får prefixet coola smala kavajer, vida byxor, extrastora tröjor, trenchcoats med överdrivna kragar, läderjackor och jeans. Vardagsplagg som skruvats till ett varv. Men modehuset har inte bara uppmärksammats för sin modedesign, utan också för sina ekonomiska resultat. Tidigare i år utsågs de till Årets företagare av tidningen Dagens Industri. I veckans Stil Sommar berättar Jonny Johansson om varför man som chefsdesigner måste skrika på sina anställda, varför han lockas av det androgyna och varför alla design han gör slutar i besvikelse. Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 där vi i åtta exklusiva intervjuer går på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
I veckans Stil Sommar träffar vi en av vår tids största artister - rapparen, producenten och nu även modeskaparen Kanye West. Få människor tror lika mycket på sig själv, och sin egen begåvning, som Kanye West. Det är ingen tillfällighet att han kallar sig för Yeezus, om än med annan stavning än originalet. Eller att han sjunger I m a God. Å andra sidan gör han den saken oerhört väl. Kanye West är en av samtidens största artister och producenter. Han har förnyat soundet inom hip hop. Att lyssna på Kanye Wests musik är att ge sig ut på en sorts musikalisk rymdresa, och han tvekar inte att kasta sig mellan olika genrer. Han klämmer till och med ur sig finstämda ballader. Självklart samarbetar han med både med Paul McCartney och Rhianna. Förutom Jay- Z, förstås.Han har kammat hem 21 Grammy-statyetter, så musikaliskt är det ingen som ifråga sätter hans begåvning. Inte han själv heller. Under sina konserter tvekar han inte att jämföra sig med konstnärer som Picasso och Michelangelo, eller entreprenör som Steve Jobs, grundaren av Apple. Men, så är det det här med mode. Kanye West vill verkligen in i modebranschen. Ja, inte bara in i den han vill skapa det största modemärket i mänsklighetens historia, som han säger. Blygsamhet är som sagt inte Kanyes grej.Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 där vi i åtta exklusiva intervjuer går på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik.Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, RobHalford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Robyn är en artist och stilikon som lyckats med att återuppfinna sig själv gång på gång. I veckans Stil Sommar berättar hon om varför hon fascineras av fulhet, om vikten av mjukhet och vad hon tänker om att människor på halloween klär ut sig till henne. Robyn växte upp i en teaterfamilj, sjöng in signaturmelodin till Lilla Sportspegeln när hon var 12 år och fick sitt genombrott som tonåring bland annat med hitten Show Me Love. Men mycket har hänt sen dess. I dag har hon ett eget skivbolag, är aktuell med en ny skiva och säger att hon just nu inne i en förvandlingsfas, utan att riktigt veta var hon kommer att landa härnäst i sin karriär. Stil Sommar är en specialserie i P1 med start efter midsommar. I åtta exklusiva intervjuer går Stil på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Johnny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Följ med Stil till ett palats i Paris för att träffa en av världens största modeskapare, Rick Owens. I första programmet av Stil Sommar möter vi en av världens mest intressanta modeskapare Rick Owens. Han bär samma uniform varje dag och har trots att han aldrig gjort reklam för sitt märke, byggt upp ett enormt modeimperium. Rick Owens tog emot Stil i sitt palats i Paris, en byggnad som fungerar som privatbostad tillika ateljé och showroom. I ett unikt möte berättar Rick Owens om hur han lyckats behålla sitt oberoende som kreatör och om hur han, utan hjälp av PR-byråer och traditionell reklam, lyckats bygga upp ett modeimperium som bär hans eget namn. Vi får även höra om Rick Owens uppväxt i Kalifornien och om hur hans karriär tog sin början i Los Angeles under 1990-talet med alldeles för mycket droger och alkohol.I sommar bjuder Stil i P1 på åtta exklusiva intervjuer med start efter midsommar. Här går Stil på djupet med världsberömda kreatörer inom mode, design, journalistik och musik som alla delar med sig av sina drivkrafter och erfarenheter. Programledaren Susanne Ljung har tillsammans med sin redaktion rest runt i Europa, USA och Sverige för att möta personligheter som Kanye West, Robyn, Suzy Menkes, Rob Halford, Margareta van den Bosch, Jonny Johansson, Rick Owens och Kim Hastreiter.
Writer and editor Suzy Menkes interviewed by Alex Fury on 2 September 2011.