POPULARITY
Mumbai and New Delhi take turns to host Lakmé Fashion Week, and this season it's the former that will be exploding with creative runways and high-craft fever, starting next week.To get you in the mood, we're bringing you an Indian mini-series of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast, starting with this delightful conversation with stylist Daniel Franklin.Daniel styled five shows last season, and has seven on the go this time, and we can't think of anyone better to contextualise India's new gen talent explosion. So yes, expect to learn the new names-to-know and what makes them tick. But Daniel studied fashion history before breaking into magazines, and this is a far-ranging discussion that gallops through the myth of the Silk Route to the truth of the colonial hangover, via a tour of India's unparalleled craft heritage. Enjoy!More info at thewardrobecrisis.comTell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressGot recommendations? Hit us up!And please share these podcasts.THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Experience matters. Everyone always tells new design graduates that it's best to work for someone else while you find your feet. But at what point do you know that you are ready to strike out on your own? While on the surface this conversation with emerging German fashion designer Essie Kramer seems to be about the joys of sourcing old ecclesiastical textiles and turning them into provocative new ensembles, or how digital printing is democratising object-making, I think it's really about confidence and finding your flow. When you know, you know! Essie is one to watch. I'm always excited to meet next gen fashion talent. Featuring young designers has been a pillar of Wardrobe Crisis from the start.I've been lucky enough to be a judge on many new gen competitions over the years, including Redress in Hong Kong, the Circular Design Challenge in India and Australia's National Designer Award. I got to write a bit for Sara Maino's Vogue Italia Talents project, and covered the BFC's New Gen for years.Every series, we've run at least one (sometimes more) Episodes focused on new designers around the world. Got recommendations? Hit us up!And please share these podcasts.Then re-listen to these treasures from our archives:Ep 61 Vogue Talents, featuring HUEMN and Sindiso KhumaloEp 65 with Ruchika from Bodice StudioEp 70 featuring Bethany Williams, Matthew Needham and Patrick McDowellEp 110 with upcyclers Helen Kirkum and Duran LantinkEp 139 with Icelandic knitter Ýr JóhannsdóttirEp 146 with Joao MaraschinEp 204 Michaela StarkHappy listening!Clare x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Breathe in deeply through your nose... What can you smell right now? Can you identify it? How does it make you feel? Is it fresh, bright, pleasant? Nostalgic? Disgusting? How often do think about smell? If you only tend to notice when it's something particularly lovely - your favourite dish being cooked, a preferred flower - or horrid (let's not go there); you're not alone.As this week's guest Susan Irvine explains, a couple of thousand years' of western philosophy has conditioned us to prioritise sight and sound, relegating smell to the senses' lower division. Why? Well, short of holding your nose (spoiler alert, there's some of that in this podcast!) smell isn't something we can generally choose to take in or shut out; it doesn't invite us to apply our discernment. But while the art and design worlds have long overlooked scent, that's changing. Agenda-setting creatives are using it in their storytelling - and we're not talking about perfume campaigns.Welcome to the mind-blowing world of smell as material. We'll leave it to Susan to explain.Susan Irvine is a writer of excellent books including novels, short stories and non fiction. A former Vogue beauty editor, she's a current Visiting Lecturer at London's Royal College of Art, where she teaches a course on using 'smell as material' based in the Fashion Programme. Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend.Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press Tapestry! Embroidery! Quilting! Tailoring! Can Textiles Change the World? You Bet Season 10, Ep. 227 Friday, December 6, 2024 From Victor & Rolf's "Get Mean" frock through Jordan Gogos's radical upcycling projects to Paul McCann's "Sovereignty Never Ceded" gown, certain items of clothing speak loudly - with intention - about the times we find ourselves in. Let's not forget the long traditions of tapestry-making, quilting, embroidery, and the newer but related concepts of stitch-n-bitch craftivism. Cloth can be a radical medium. You might call it soft power, for its undeniable tactility - but don't mistake soft for weak.
"Bangladesh has come out of a lot of difficulty in the past. Bangladesh is a place of hope, is a place of resilience ... We could again come together as a nation, with the ertailers and the brands supporting us, and make the transformation. It's a huge, huge opportunity."Rousing words from this week's compelling interview with manufacturer Shafiq Hassan, of the Echotex manufacturing facility in Gazipur, Bangladesh.Last year Bangladesh was ranked the third-largest exporter of clothing globally (after China and the European Union) exporting USD $38.4 billion worth of garments. The nation is home to over 40K garment factories of various sizes, and over 4 million garment workers.A decade after Rana Plaza, much progress has been made, including around environmental sustainability. Bangladesh now has 186 LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified factories, and, according to Reuters, lays claim to 9 of world's top 10 'green' garment factories (considering carbon, water and energy footprint, waste, logistics, and using more sustainable materials).Clare interviewed Shafiq in London, in September 2024, a little over month after peaceful students protests in Bangladesh toppled ex-Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, then presiding over an increasingly corrupt and authoritarian regime. Her government's response to the protests - appalling violence - is well documented. This week, a new report by the current interim government, titled Unfolding the Truth, implicates Hasina in as many as 3,500 cases of forced disappearances during her time in office.Warned the Solidarity Centre in August: "The economy of Bangladesh, depends on garment factories, but producers say customers are concerned about violence and disruption." What's more, the previous government's "repression against workers seeking to form and join unions has prevented garment workers from achieving the living wages and safe working conditions they have sought to achieve."So what's next?The Nobel peace laureate and economist Muhammad Yunus (founder of the Grameen bank) is leading the interim/ caretaker government. The factories are back working. Leading facilities like Echotex continue to innovate. What's unfolding is very relevant to the fashion sector, and to all of us who care about ethical production and want to understand the role brands have to play when it comes to what we hope are long term partnerships with suppliers.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend.Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
From Victor & Rolf's "Get Mean" frock through Jordan Gogos's radical upcycling projects to Paul McCann's "Sovereignty Never Ceded" gown, certain items of clothing speak loudly - with intention - about the times we find ourselves in. Let's not forget the long traditions of tapestry-making, quilting, embroidery, and the newer but related concepts of stitch-n-bitch craftivism. Cloth can be a radical medium. You might call it soft power, for its undeniable tactility - but don't mistake soft for weak. "Textiles galvanise communities. Through wars, pandemics and disasters, textiles have offered a way to mobilise social and cultural groups and build connections. In the late nineteenth century, British artist and designer William Morris sought to counter the mechanisation and mass-production of the Industrial Revolution by weaving tapestries on a manual loom with hand-dyed thread. Today, many artists are experimenting with the materials and techniques of textile design as a ‘slow making' antidote to the high-speed digital age." With an introduction like that, how could we not respond? This week, Clare sits down with Rebecca Evans and Leigh Robb, curators of RADICAL TEXTILES - a major new exhibition at the Art Gallery of South Australia.Up for discussion: do textiles belong in museums? Is fashion so often dismissed as some sort of lesser art because it's considered unserious women's business? How did political movements of the last century use textiles to get their messages across? What's with Don Dunstan's pink shorts? And so much more!Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend.Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
New York, London, Milan, Paris? So last season! It's time to spotlight less discussed design centres. This time, Dundee, which is home the two emerging menswear designers you're about to meet - both recent graduates from the Jimmy Choo Academy.First we'll hear from Sasha Clegg, whom with a wink, called her label The English Man. Despite being neither. She chose the name to call out the pale, male-dominated fashion industry. Sasha, who is of Zambian and Scottish descent, wants to "celebrate multiculturalism, heritage, diversity, and inclusivity." Her graduate collection, titled Mother's Tongue, blends inspiration from her Scottish upbringing with nods to English football culture, and features kilts, tartan, and '80s-to-2000s influences. Our second interview is with Robyn Green, whose work explores subcultures and challenges Scottish stereotypes, with a political twist.Too often fashion mines working class communities for their idea and creativity without giving credit - that, says Robyn, is a form cultural appropriation. Her brand, Gadgie, is inspired by "the resilience and creativity of Scotland's working-class communities" and she's on a mission to create opportunities for underrepresented voices in fashion. How to begin? Head home. After studying in London, she's back in Dundee, setting up her new studio, working with local hand-knitters and crochet artists and championing Made in Scotland.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend.Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
What is the role of a fashion designer today? Thinking purely about gorgeous clothes is so last season. Gone are the days when designers could consider only a collection, how it will sell and what the customer might be looking for. Forward-thinkers are already beginning to take more holistic view and adopt a living systems approach. They're asking questions such as, Can we make like Nature makes? How might fashion create nutrients instead of waste? How can we use biomimicry in sustainable ways? Program living systems to produce bespoke products? And, how can we build a truly regenerative system in place of the current regenerative one?“We won't have a choice in the future. We will all have to include sustainability in everything we do,” says this week's guest Carole Collet - a bio designer, professor of textile futures and the director of LVMH's Maison/0 incubator for emerging talent focused on regenerative luxury.Carole was raised in Burgundy, France, to respect Nature. Her mother worked in a flower shop, her father in a greenhouse. In 1991, she was in London studying for her Masters in textiles when she had a revelation: “It's in biology that the answers will be.” Traditionally, textile design education focuses on weaving, knitting or maybe printing. “It's very craft based,” says Carole says, “and I love craft; I think it's justified. But at Masters level, I felt like it was too restrictive.” She went on to set up the first Material Futures program at Central Saint Martins “to explore what textiles could be”. A philosophical conversation that extends way beyond fashion, encouraging us to ask the big questions about what sort of world we want to build - and our responsibilities in doing so. We might begin, suggests Carole, by challenging our anthropocentrism, and ask, "What does a bee want? How about a fish?"Thought-provoking!Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend.Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Happy Secondhand September! Six years ago Oxfam UK came up with the idea of using September to encourage people to: "Shop second hand to take a stance against fast fashion and dress for a fairer world." They say it's a moment to come together “to choose a more planet-friendly way to shop, and dress for the world you want to see."How does preloved help with that? We all know that fashion waste is a problem, that new clothing and textile production is a serious contributor to the climate crisis. According to ThredUp, if every consumer bought just one this year secondhand garment instead of a new one, it would he like equal to taking 76 million cars off the road for a day.Plus by shopping with Oxfam, and other charity shops, you're investing in the vital work in local communities.This week Clare sits down with mega multi-tasker Eunice Olumide MBE - model, environmentalist, broadcaster, DJ, author, curator now filmmaker (phew!) - ahead of Oxfam's London Fashion Week show, to discuss thrifting, her new documentary about the history of British hip hop, moving beyond performative activism, and the challenges of championing secondhand in a world still dominated by the business model of new...Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend. Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Fashion month is about to kick off again, with all eyes on New York, London, Milan and Paris. But the obsession with the so-called fashion capitals has long seemed out of touch. Yes, that's where the money is (well, Paris is anyway), but in our globalised world, there are many more fashion capitals that should not be overlooked. There are fashion weeks all over the place, all year round. But while Lagos, Melbourne, Berlin and Copenhagen deserve their place in the fashion spotlight, what happens when you're well off the beaten fashion track?East Arnhem Land, for example...These days, rising Australian fashion star Liandra Gaykamangu calls Darwin home, but that's the big smoke compared to where she grew up in Milingimbi (Yurruwi) in the Crocodile Islands - albeit with a sojourn to the Wollongong surf coast. Now her print-led namesake brand is making waves in fancy places. This mum of three used to be a high school teacher and her fashion-forward design is winning her prizes.A beautiful, far-reaching conversation the covers a lot of ground, from creative life in Australia's remote north, caring for County, and tuning into nature (what are the frogs telling you?) to mentoring nex gen Indigenous entrepreneurs, and what it takes to break through when you're outside of circles of power.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend. Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
#underconsumptioncore is a thing! For this episode, we're in London visiting British journalist Tiffanie Darke to talk about her viral wardrobe challenge, The Rule of Five. She's also got a new book coming out in the US. What to Wear and Why, Your Guilt-Free Guide to Sustainable Fashion promises to get you "rethinking what clothes we buy, wear, and toss out, knowing that we can have a positive environmental impact while still looking good and dressing well”.It was during the pandemic, when Tiffanie was working at Harrod's, as the editor of that famed luxury department store's magazine, when she had a revelation. Mindless shopping felt meaningless.Then she read a shocking report by the Hot or Cool Institute - Unfit, Unfashionable, Unfair revealed that if we're serious about climate action, those of us in the global north/rich countries are going to have to have to drastically reduce our consumption. Of everything! So how much new fashion is sustainable if we want to keep global warming under 1.5 degrees? Buying just five new garments a year. Yikes!This is the story of how one woman set out to do that, and catalysed a movement along the way. Also up for discussion, who's to blame for the mess we find ourselves in? Could it be Gen X, those formerly hedonistic Cool Britannia types? After all, they were the first fast fashion fans…Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend. Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Welcome to the last of our Copenhagen Fashion Week interviews (if you missed the previous Eps, do go back & take a listen).This one is refreshingly honest conversation with Danish knitwear designer Amalie Røge Hove about her much-loved label, A. Roege Hove, and the ups and downs of being an independent fashion business.Widely celebrated as the next big thing, for the past few years A. Roege Hove was a CPHFW highlight. But last season, Amalie was not on the schedule, although her brilliant work was part of the Ganni NEWTALENT platform to amplify rising talents.So why no runway? Everybody loves A. Roege Hove. After launching in 2019, they were stocked by the likes of Matches and Selfridges, dressing all the It-girls and winning all the prizes, including 2023's International Woolmark Prize.That winter, however, the label went into administration.Alas, it's a depressingly common situation. With many independents going bankrupt in the last few years, or finally deciding to close their doors because of rising costs and other stresses - including, of course, those who put sustainability at the heart of what they do.How much of a problem is the wholesale model here? Can you grow too fast? Can you make it without financial backers? What happens if you can't keep up? Or supply chains take a hit for reasons outside of your control? We thank Amalie for sharing her story so that others might benefit.*Since this interview was recorded in February, we are happy to report that A. Roge Hove has returned in a new form and showed again at the CPHFW Spring ‘25 collections.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Share on socials! Recommend to a friend. Find Clare on Instagram @mrspressTHANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Our Copenhagen Fashion Week special continues! Clare sits down with Finnish menswear designer Rolf Ektroth.Last season, his hand-knits, made with Finnish yarn manufacturer Novita, were made available as pattern and yarn kits, so that home knitters could recreate his runway pieces. He loves macramé and hand embroidery, yet his collections have a modern street vibe that feels very polished. Perhaps it's because he's not actually a new name - Rolf Ekroth has been celebrated before, with glowing reviews in magazines and shows at Pitti Uomo before the pandemic. His label has had its ups and downs, he lost his backers at one point, but he kept at it. So, in part this is conversation about a career as a progression and taking the long view. It's about perseverance, figuring out what really matters to you and how we are all the sum of our experiences. It's also highly amusing - Rolf is crackup funny. And brilliant! Learn his name - we predict, it's going to be everywhere.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
If you're not in Copenhagen for fashion week, here's your (virtual) ticket :)Last week, we talked to Ane from Alpha about studying fashion in the Nordics and how to make it as an artistic designer.Over the next three episodes, we've got interviews with some of the most exciting names to watch from the region.First up is Alectra Rothschild, whose show for her Masculina label was one of the most anticipated, thanks to last season's electric on-schedule debut.Vogue noted it was "probably history-making' - because Alectra was the first openly trans woman to show at Copenhagen, and because of the her iconic community casting. Listen out in this chat for the part about what a positive force that representation has been - she gets so many messages from fans around the world saying they feel seen. And want to place orders.Another big theme in this interview is sustainable business models, and what works when you're a small designer. How do you scale? Do you want to? Do you even try? Maybe you plan to go and work for an established house instead? Or, is there a way to stay independent, cater to your community and keep things bespoke?For Alectra (who trained as a tailor, worked at Mugler and did her MA at Central St Martins in London), it's about seeing herself as a "designer, but also maker, artist and costume designer" and focusing - for now at least - on commissioned pieces.Ask her to sum up her clothes and she says, “flamboyant, high femme, and quite shameless”. She's done with being put in a box and categorised - we contain multitudes. Above all she wants to enjoy herself. She makes clothes for night life. Her runways are a party, calling to mind the 1980s when the most exciting fashion scene was DIY, driven by club culture and community. Good times ahead.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
We hear it all the time: fashion students are overwhelmed by overproduction and the ruthless churn of creative directors at the big luxury houses. How can they forge a creative path without contributing to the problem? If they decide to operate outside the system - crafting extravagant one offs, for example, or only making to order - how will they survive financially? What is the point of fashion if you can't wear it?Ana Lynge-Jorlén is the Danish fashion academic behind Alpha, a fashion incubator for directional design talent from the Nordics. The Alpha showcase at Copenhagen Fashion Week is always exhilarating, but as you will hear that's not all they do - they've got a big exhibition coming up in Norway's National Museum at the end of the year, and they do a bunch of industry mentorships working with the likes of The Row, Browns London and 1 Granary.But really this interview with Ane is about, as she puts it, "fashion's cultural value" - fashion is technically in the realm of applied art, as opposed to the fine one. But whatever you want to call it, fashion as artistic expression has value beyond the commercial. Can you wear it on the bus? That depends on how daring you are. Ane probably would!Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Empathy, kindness, wellbeing, caring, sharing, repairing - not traditionally the first words that spring to mind when I say "FASHION!" But things are changing. Are we moving towards a new paradigm where who cares, wins? If we accept that the old ways (overproduction, exploitation, rampant shareholder capitalism, waste) don't serve us, why not redesign the whole thing along radical new lines? What might that look like?If you're intro underground fabulousness pushing disruptive fashion forwards, you might have noticed that in Arnhem, the Netherlands, the State of Fashion Biennale 2024 happened over the summer. The theme was 'Ties that Bind', and it explored ideas around ‘dismantling tradition', ‘political bodies' and ‘the fabric of shelter'.This Episode was recorded at the previous event in 2022 - and saved up because some of these stories are in Clare's latest book Wear Next.Says Clare: “Come back in time with us to that glorious summer. These conversations explore timeless themes. If anything, what we discuss feels even more relevant today. Also, if you've been feeling a bit blah about conventional fashion weeks and events, this should shake you up. It proves that not everything has to be about business and brands!”With the central theme Ways of Caring, the 2022 State of Fashion Biennale set out to discover ways to make the fashion industry more sustainable and caring. Participants were chosen from an open call, and over five weeks, more than 70 designers, artists and makers from all over the world, and the public bubbled with ideas on how to repair “the broken relationship between the production of fashion and the wearer”.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Complete this sentence: The future of fashion will be…Welcome to Series 10 of Wardrobe Crisis! We're kicking off with a conversation about the future of fashion, recorded live earlier this year when Wear Next came out in the UK.Clare is in conversation Tamara Cincik, Professor of Fashion & Sustainability at Bath Spa University, at the first ever event of the UK's new National Centre for Sustainable Fashion, which is based there. A robust discussion beginning with regenerative fashion, and swooping energetically through slowing down fast fashion and what's the point of fashion week to fibre sovereignty, the creative wellbeing economy, fashion burnout and mental health. We also talk about representation and inclusion, and ask: who gets to make the policy decisions that shape fashion's future?P.S. Intrigued by Clare's reference to the State of Fashion Biennale in Arnhem? Tune in next week for more.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating / reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Just short of the iconic Coca-Cola sign in Sydney's Kings Cross is a miracle of a shop that sells vintage clothes AND books. What? You haven't been to Grand Days? Well, come on in and enter the best idea Jo ever had.For the first recording of Questioning Fashion in front of a live audience, Ali and Jo asked world renowned Clare Press to be their guest. You're welcome.We hope the warmth and positivity that permeated the room that night can be felt through your ear holes, dear listeners. So sit back and enjoy as we chat about Clare's latest book Wear Next, described as a “roadmap for the fashion evolution we have all been waiting for”. During the interview the girls mention an episode of Clare's own podcast Wardrobe Crisis, in which she interviewed our very own Ali. Here it is.Email us: questioningfashionpodcast@slogue.com.auOur social media accounts:instagram.com/questioningfashionpodcastinstagram.com/jogambaleinstagram.com/bellstreettiktok.com/@bellstreet This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit questioningfashion.substack.com
Once considered bottom of the stylists pile by the upper echelons of fashion, so-called 'celebrity stylists' (sometimes 'red-carpet stylists') are suddenly being given the credit they think they deserve. As Zendaya's renowned stylist Law Roach explains: “There's been this idea that I'm supposed to be grateful [to have a celebrity client]. No. She's supposed to be grateful that she's working with me because I'm changing her life." Why and how are stylists changing their celebrity clients' lives? In this episode, Jo - herself a stylist with a couple of minor red carpets under her belt - explains the inner workings of "image strategies", and breaks down the most interesting of these at this year's Oscars. Ali, meanwhile, shares her joy at the growing trend of "borrowed" vintage for red carpets, Sydney Sweeney's 2004 Jolie gown as a case in point. "I imagine some giant Bell Street in Hollywood." Oh joy. Did you have a favourite look at this year's Oscars?Email us: questioningfashionpodcast@slogue.com.auFollow us here:instagram.com/questioningfashionpodcastinstagram.com/jogambaleinstagram.com/bellstreettiktok.com/@bellstreetAnd don't forget to get yourself a ticket to our live podcast recording next week, where we interview author and journalist Clare Press of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast!!! $20 tickets available here - see you there!! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit questioningfashion.substack.com
Bobby Kolade is the designer behind Ugandan fashion label Buzigahill - which puts the politics of upcycling and waste colonialism at its core with the brilliant, provocative concept: Return to Sender.Buzigahill's collections are made from items of secondhand clothing donated in the global north, and increasingly being dumped on the global south in unsustainable numbers. Why “return to sender”? Because much of Buzigahill's clientele is in Europe and North America.Like Kantamanto in Accra, Ghana; Owino Market in Kampala receives huge numbers of bales of second-hand clothing every week, from countries in Europe, from the US and Canada. As a result, in 2023 second-hand accounted for 80% of all domestic clothing sales in Uganda.But how much is too much? Who is monitoring for quality and consistency? Are we right to keep talking about "donations" in the context of this undeniably big business? As Bobby says, it's not charity - it's a trade, and too often an unequal one with many impacts on local economies as well as the environment when it becomes textile waste. So surely it's good, right, when a receiving country finally says: "No more! We don't want your cast-offs." Or is it? As usual, there's no simple answer...This enthralling conversation was recorded before Uganda's government announced a ban on second-hand clothing towards the end of last year. A situation that continues to evolve.Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
What do your clothes say about you? Dear listener, I bet you've thought about this before. Fashion is a language in itself. But, what about the language we use to describe - and by extension to include, or to exclude - the people who wear it? Or don't get to wear it? The people we're marketing it to, or employing.Fashion communication isn't just about the clothes. It's about how we talk to each other.Meet Lou Croff Blake, a Berlin-based non-binary fashion practitioner, scholar, artist and community organiser. Their work merges queer theory with community-building, advocating for intersectional equity and amplifying the visibility of marginalised genders. Which sounds like a of words! Because it is. Carefully considered words chosen to challenge the dominant narrative.Open to learn? Join us on a deep dive on DIEB - diversity, inclusion, equity and belonging - as we consider the existential question: do we really want to build a more ethical fashion industry? If so, doesn't that have to be one where everyone can feel a true sense of belonging? Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Can fashion lift its inclusivity game? When 28-year-old British model Junior Bishop - who just so happens to be a wheelchair user - spoke at the Houses of Parliament recently, she called on the fashion industry to do more to tackle its disability access issues. Levelling the playing field is integral to the wellbeing economy - what's the point of only some of us get to have our wellbeing considered?“When looking at fashion and media today,” said Junior, diversity and representation are gradually improving. That's important. “We hope to simply see people who look like us - our ‘imperfections', our ‘flaws', the little things that make us who we are.” Also, purely from the economic rationale, how do brands expect to sell to people who don't see themselves in campaigns?As Junior acknowledged: “The excitement of being able to see someone who is a wheelchair user, a cane user despite their age, has a limb difference, has Down syndrome, has albinism, the list goes on… Having those with disabilities or their family members tearfully say ‘I didn't know people like us could do that kind of thing'; that is why this movement needs to continue to grow." Representation is an important first step, but we can't stop there.This inspiring conversation, packed with practical advice and emotional intelligence, comes with a call to action: want to do better on this stuff? Ask disabled people what they need!Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Rich, white and privileged - the creative arts sector has a class problem. Particularly in class-obsessed Britain, where middle-class people are twice as likely to work in creative jobs than their working class contemporaries. According to the Evening Standard, "the worlds of TV, film, music and the arts are dominated by straight, able-bodied white men living in London, despite them only accounting for 3.5% of the [UK] population."Not that this is purely a UK problem. In New York, 85% of artists represented by commercial galleries are white. In Australia, where one in four of us were born overseas, culturally and linguistically diverse creatives are still barely represented in fashion at all. And consider the global luxury brands, with their spate of recent cookie-cutter creative director hires - can anyone actually tell the difference between these men from their photos alone?But, "What about the new editor at Vogue?" I hear you say. Too often, the celebrated hire is still the only Black or brown person in the room.I bet you can think of a thousand places where career progress is affected by your postcode, where you went to school and what your parents did. And lurking behind all that: race, gender, sexuality, difference, not to mention how much cash you've got...It's time for a power shift!Meet Rahemur Rahman, a British-Bengali artist, educator and designer who is determined to change the system, not simply tinker round the edges of representation. He made it, despite the odds. Raised in working class Tower Hamlets, he studied fashion at Central Saint MartinsHe studied fashion at Central Saint Martins, where he now teaches. Designs from his debut London Fashion Week collection menswear collection were acquired by the V&A Museum. Now, he's the director of training and development at Bari, a new incubator supporting South Asian creatives in East London as part of the British Bangladeshi Fashion Council.This is a lively conversation about what it takes to, practically, turn things around - not just talk about it. Hint: no true diversity and inclusion without addressing the class barrier!We're also talking the creative innovation meets heritage craft, social impact fashion, holidays with friends, and the joy of working on what matters.Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
We all know clothes have meaning, beyond just looking nice. We've often talked on this podcast about the importance of how they are made. This week, we're considering how fashion's meaning stretches beyond supply chains and our wardrobes, to shape our culture and the way we see ourselves collectively. How does fashion see itself when it comes to race and privilege? How about the male gaze?Clare sits down with Caryn Franklin, journalist, style icon, fashion citizen (not consumer, please!), one-time presenter of The Clothes Show and all-time national treasure. These days her work centres on education and activism - she's a visiting professor of diverse selfhood at Kingston School of Art, in London, and gained her MSc in applied psychology specialising in selfhood, objectification, inclusivity and gender bias.Partly, this interview is a personal one about a life in clothes but it's also a provocation: How can we use fashion as a vehicle for positive self-esteem, rather than allowing it to make too many of us feel small, too much of the time?All up, rollocking good chat with Caryn Franklin, MBE. Enjoy!Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Did you know that most people wear 20% of their clothes 80% of the time?There are a few keys to keeping your wardrobe organised.Sneak peak... "Keep what you DO wear, not what you WILL wear"Here is the Decluttering Playlist on Spotify - the songs themselves are less about decluttering than the titles... but enjoy!https://open.spotify.com/playlist/21dQJvHjo4eOdeo0u83Ynu?si=da99bfe43a6547dcYou are invited to join the free course for this series where each Monday you'll receive access to a new podcast episode, decluttering checklist and organising cheat sheet (as well as some surprise bonuses), all so you can declutter and organise like a pro!This week we're doing our WARDROBE.Make sure to join to download your Wardrobe Check List & Cheat SheetYou may also like to listen to these episodes:Magic Wardrobe NumberCapsule WardrobeClothingHandbagsHats & GlassesKnow Your ColoursShoesWardrobe CrisisJoin our communityBecome a Patron – your monthly donation makes a huge difference to me being able to produce this podcast. Donations can be as little as $1 a month!Follow me on InstagramFollow me on FacebookJoin my Facebook groupLeave a review on Apple PodcastThank you to my sound engineer, Jarred from Four4ty Studio Get bonus content on Patreon Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
How much is enough? How can creatives incorporate the idea of sufficiency in their output? If you make physical objects, what does it really mean to be sustainable in your practice? And, how can you, as my guest this week, Richard Malone, puts it, "do your own thing and stick to it" in the context of fashion's relentless push for newness?Also, where does class and privilege play into all this? Does Fashion with a capital ‘F' actually want to be more inclusive and welcoming? Or is all the talk of breaking down the barriers just lipservice? The fact is: many of the people who “make it” in fashion have an had a head start. You only have to look at the current obsession with Gen Z nepo babies. Let's not pretend the playing field is level.Richard Malone is queer London-based, Irish fashion designer, artist and maker, whose work challenges subtly a system that's built on unfair advantages. A thought-provoking conversation about everything from colonisation and the loss of Irish craft traditions, to what fashion shows are really for!Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Another riveting manifestation of 202030 – The Berlin Fashion Summit has come to pass. On 06/02/2024 at Kronprinzenpalais, guests joined us live in Berlin for the 202030 Pop-up: Culture & Communication. The stage program featured speakers leading from the sector of cultural sustainability, and included authors, activists, designers, community leaders, and public personas. Among the highlights was a keynote and book signing from Clare Press, the voice of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast and author of Wear Next. After the stage program, our audience and speakers convened for a Community Gathering, unpacking the rich content of the program in continued, eye-level dialogue. Our colleague Carlos Urbina Sinclair mingled with the crowd, capturing an exciting array of testimonials, which we are happy to share with you in the special recap episode! We hope you'll join us in July 2024, when we return with our full 2-day conference. Visit our website for photos of the 202030 Pop-up, to sign up for our newsletter, and purchase your ticket for the 8th edition of 202030 – The Berlin Fashion Summit. https://202030summit.com/ Enormous thanks to our speakers and moderators: Anbid Zaman | Campaign against Homophobia Germany, https://xn--aktionsbndnis-3ob.org/?nothilfe-ukraine/spende Ayan Yuruk | SHOWZ, https://showz.berlin/ Beatrace Angut Oola | Fashion Africa Now, http://www.fashionafricanow.com/ Clare Press | Wardrobe Crisis, https://thewardrobecrisis.com/podcast Magdalena Schaffrin | VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub, studio MM04, https://vorn-hub.com/ Mick Mehnert | Auf Augenhöhe Design, https://www.aufaugenhoehe.design/ Moritz Vierboom | Changemakers.film, Planetnarratives, https://changemakers.film/ Sevil Uguz | PLATTE Berlin, https://platte.berlin/en/ Lou Croff Blake | studio MM04, https://www.studiomm04.com/ Max Gilgenmann | studio MM04, https://www.studiomm04.com/ And to our hosts, partners, and collaborators: Berlin Fashion Week, https://fashionweek.berlin/en/berlin-fashion-week.html Der Berliner Salon, https://www.instagram.com/derberlinersalon/ Kleiderei, https://kleiderei.com/ Nowadays, https://nowadays.de/max-mara-resort-2023-calouste-gulbenkian-lisbon/
Why does fashion have such a problem in accepting all bodies they way they are, and recognising the beauty in different shapes and sizes? I know, I know, we've heard it all before, yet depressingly little changes.Our guest this week has had enough! Self-described as “that body morphing b*tch”, Michaela Starck is a super-talented London-based Aussie creative director/designer/dreamboat who's beautiful work includes her own glorious self, as well as Paris-worthy, bow-bedecked frillies.A frank convo on fat-shaming, where the body positivity movement fails, and the magical powers of backing your own vision. Even when people in your life keep telling you you'll never make it? Especially then! Take that, naysayers!Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
If you're interested in natural dyes, or want to know more about hands-on textile techniques, this episode is a joy. It's also a great one if you are into ideas around seasonality and connection to Nature. Aren't we all?!Continuing our Pacific theme (don't miss last week's Episode with Fiji Fashion Week's Ellen Whippy-Knight) these two stories are also from Fiji, but a long way from its capital Suva. They're both about different aspects of Indigenous practices, and living in balance with the the land, the oceans, the skies and biodiversity.First, meet Letila Mitchell, a renowned artist, designer and performer from Rotuma. Her work in the fashion space grew out of costume, & has developed into a practice that's all about revitalising traditional Rotuman textile making, and re-finding cultural knowledge disrupted by colonisation.Our second interview is with Noleen Billings, from Savusavu, on Fiji's northern island of Vanua Levu. Noleen isn't famous or a fancy expert in anything other than common sense but her simple message is a powerful one: In the busy modern world, it's easy to forget the Nature usually knows best. Indigenous wisdom is deeply connected with reading Nature's signals, and we can all learn from that. There are universal lessons in here, as well as some thought-provoking questions. For example, what does it mean to be wise? Where does schooled knowledge, written down in books, fit in - and why do we have to so rigid about it? Knowledge that's shared and passed down in different ways is just as important…Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think! Can you help us spread the word ?Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple orSpotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
When Anna Wintour was introduced to Ellen Whippy-Knight as the founder of Fiji Fashion Week, the Vogue editor-in-chief exclaimed, “Fiji has a fashion week?!” Sure does, Anna. It turned 16 last year, and is an established force in a small yet burgeoning Pacific fashion scene.White sands and turquoise waters. Surf breaks. Rugby. Fiji is rightly famous for these things, it's also an international garment-manufacturing country with an independent design community, mainly focused on the local market and the Fijian diaspora.Now Ellen, a formidable fashion force in her own right, is determined to bring sustainability and technical design education into the picture...Check the shownotes for links & further reading.Tell us what you think!Can you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Addicted to thrifting? Wondering where all your money's gone? Feeling the fashion clutter feels? If you answered “yes” to any of the above, it might be time for a fashion detox.From Slow Fashion Season to ReMake's 90-day No New Clothes challenge to the Rule of 5, more of us are looking for ways to circuit-break bad fashion habits. There's a real movement going on with conscious fashionistas sharing what's worked for them when it comes to slowing down, buying and wasting less.Our first guest for 2024 is Jenna Flood, a slow fashion stylist who's been sharing tips and tricks with her followers around what she calls her Wardrobe Freeze.It all began for Jenna after she created a spreadsheet to track where her money was disappearing to. Turns out she was over-spending on ethical brands and treating second-hand like it was fast fashion – ultra high turnover. It didn't help that she works in a consignment store surrounded by temptation…What rules did she set for herself? How did she stick with them? And, was it worth it?Jenna says completing her challenge has left her with a thrilling sense of freedom.Now, you can't buy that!Can you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
CONTENT WARNING. A note from Clare: "While in this Episode, we talk about creativity and hope, baking and Strictly Ballroom, and address a wide range of things from the politics of climate action to biodiversity, we also discuss the details of going on a hunger strike. Personally, I would say that bit is not suitable for children, although I suspect Gregory would disagree. I'd also like to let you know there's mention of eating disorders in this interview. It's a compelling listen - there's much to think about and learn from here, and I admire Gregory's stand and his ethics. But do exercise your own judgement with little or vulnerable/ anxious ears around.Thank you,Clare xxx"How far would you go for climate action? Changing your lifestyle? Sounds doable (to an extent!). Divesting from businesses that support the fossil fuel industry, perhaps? Would you consider getting into politics? Or more controversial actions, like risking arrest at a banned street protest, or harbour blockade, for example? Our guest this week embarked on a much more unusual - and indeed dangerous - strategy to spur the government into stronger action on climate issues.Gregory Andrews is a former diplomat, and was Australia's first ever Threatened Species Commissioner. He worked as a public servant for more than 30 years, including for 15 years in the Departments of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Environment, Climate Change, and Indigenous Affairs. Today he's an adjunct Associate Professor at the University of Canberra's Institute for Applied Ecology.In November 2023, in the run up to COP28, he stationed himself outside Australia's federal parliament, and staged a hunger strike for climate action. His demands included that the government stop permitting the logging of native forests, and end subsidies to fossil fuels companies. He lasted 16 days before ending up in hospital. This is his story.Check the shownotes on wardrobecrisis.com for links & further reading. Can you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
It's that time of year again, when world leaders (along with marketers from brands, oil and gas industry lobbyists, celebs on their private jets) head to the UN climate conference to discuss what to do about greenhouse gas pollution and our warming world. Extreme weather! Rising sea levels! Phasing out fossil fuels! Wait, actually, maybe tone that last one down because it's a bit hard, and our mates in the extractive energy industry aren't keen ... okay, how about: Phasing down fossil fuels? That sounds more reasonable... Luckily there are also voices of reason at these events. It's time we listened more to them. As a group of Pacific Climate Activists head to COP28 in Dubai to tell the world what it's really like to live on the front line of climate change in a low-lying island nation when one-in-100 year cyclones hit back to back, Clare sits down with Ni-Vanuatu woman activist Flora Vano, to hear about her work empowering women in the climate movement. Turns out it's going pretty well. Flora is fab, and her message is one of hope and inspiration as well as hard truths. You need to hear her beautiful words about her connection to the oceans and what we can learn from Mother Nature. Plus she's a fashion fan. We start this conversation with the power of visual communications - Flora loves bright colours and often arrives at events with a statement bloom tucked behind her ear. But don't let that fool you into thinking she's not a serious player. She's travelling to COP28 with the demands of Vanuatu's 9,000-strong Women I Tok Tok Tugeta (women talking together) network, demanding gender equality and climate justice. Flora has a clear message to governments and industry: she wants them to start looking seriously at the losses faced by Pacific Island communities, and others, as a result of climate change they did not cause.Check the shownotes on wardrobecrisis.com for links on how you can help Flora and her fellow activists at COP28, and for more info. Can you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
“When did we decide we couldn't make stuff anymore?” asks this week's guest, Meriel Chamberlin, the textile technologist behind Full Circle Fibres, an Australian startup producing “paddock to product” garments on-shore.We know that the fashion industry's climate impacts are significant, and that most of it comes down to the textile production stage. So how can we do things differently, close to home? Who needs to come together to make that happen, to share expertise, innovate, and also to fund it? How might fibre production tread more lightly on the land? Protect, or even enhance, biodiversity? These are some of the big questions driving the initiatives we're talking about on this week's show.We've often covered the trouble with factories on this podcast; issues around garment worker injustice and unfair conditions. Very important stuff! But we hardly ever hear about the excellent factories. This is an Episode about the opportunities to make fashion more sustainable at the factory level, and the skills and capabilities that already exist. That might mean some re-shoring, but it's also an encouragement to value what's already in our backyards.Reports of the end of textile manufacturing in so-called consuming countries are exaggerated. We've still got it! Albeit on a smaller scale than when our parents were young. Wherever in the world you are listening, Meriel wants you to look around and recognise what you already have in terms of local skills, manufacturing & R&D capacity. Australia, for example, produces some of the world's best fibre, and there are still production facilities domestically for most stages of the supply chain. Find a gap? Might be worth working to close it.Full Circle Fibres is a recipient of the Country Road Climate Fund. Discover here.Check out the shownotes on wardrobecrisis.comCan you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
It's fashion month again and the big brands with the big budgets dominate our feeds. But amidst the commercial noise of the contemporary fashion circus, independent gems still exist. There are true artists who go their own way, and often set the future trend agenda (although they tend not to get the credit). Our guest this week is one of them. He's been shaking up the London underground scene since the ‘90s. Meet Dr NOKI, the original upcycler. Just don't call him that…NOKI does fashion on his own terms, including the language he prefers to describe his work. He “custom-builds” his “mashups” and “landfill drops”. It's a practice that owes at debt to dadaism, and made sense of his dyslexia when he was young. The story reaches to back into the ‘90s club scene, through the culture jamming of the No Logo years to end up at the cutting edge where art and fashion collide today.Now, a new generation that's interested in sustainability is discovering him for the first time. Last year, Hypebeast heralded NOKI as “a tried and true member of the sustainability movement — arguably being a founder of the word before it even really became a thing.”But does he relate to that? How does he see his work? What inspired it all back in ‘90s London's rave scene? And how does he see the future for fashion's young waste warrior disruptors? Part fashion history lesson, part provocation to challenge our consumerist culture, this one's an adventure - enjoy!Check out the shownotes on wardrobecrisis.comCan you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Woolmark's new ambassador Taylor Zakhar Perez is a rising Hollywood star known for his leading man roles. You might recognise him from a certain rom com that we're not mentioning here (in respect of the actors' strike), or his role in a royal drama based on a cult book (again, not going there). Maybe you know his Paris fashion week looks - snaps of him emerging shirtless from his car outside the Prada's menswear show went viral in June.But whether you're one of his 4.7 million Instagram followers, or discovering his work for the first time here, there's no denying Taylor's charm. He's smart, down-to-earth, generous with his time and endlessly curious, and we love that he was up for a conversation about how to use influence for good.In this conversation, we discuss the risks and rewards of daring to talk about sustainability when you're known for something else, why more famous names don't get involved in climate activism or rewear their clothes, and how this former competitive swimmer became a supply chain nerd. For Taylor, if he's going to work with a brand, he wants to see what goes on behind the scenes. More of that please!Check out the shownotes on wardrobecrisis.comCan you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Series 9 has landed! Our first guest is Cyrill Gutsch, the fascinating founder of Parley for the Oceans. With his partner Lea Stepken, this NY-based designer and branding expert started his global environmental organisation in 2012, after bumping into Pamela Anderson at an art fair. Pammy was wearing a Sea Shepherd T-shirt, and when Cyrill asked her why, she told him Sea Shepherd's activist-in-chief Paul Watson was in trouble - he'd been arrested in Frankfurt on an international warrant. Cyrill, being German, thought he might be able to help, and went to visit Watson in his lawyer's office. There, he learned that Watson's strife was a drop in the proverbial compared with what's happening to the oceans. Plastic pollution! Climate change! Overfishing! Could creativity be the super power needed to turn it around?The rest, as they say is history. Cyrill decided to ditch his regular clients, and donate his time to just one: OUR OCEANS. Specifically, “raising awareness for their beauty and fragility” and “collaborating on projects [to] end their destruction.”Over the years, such projects have included: working with Adidas to phase out single-use plastics; partnering with big-name visual artists on everything from underwater sculptures to sustainable surfboards; funding research into new materials; and setting up programs in schools. On a practical level, Parley's work is just as likely to play out as beach cleanups in the Maldives as it is to be a new Dior bag. It's all in the mix, to beat what Cyrill calls “our addiction” to virgin plastic.Next on his To-Do List? Just a total materials revolution. “We need to change the way we make stuff.”Check out the shownotes on wardrobecrisis.comCan you help us spread the word about Series 9? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production. We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free.If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen studied at RCA in London, and interned with John Galliano and Erdem before starting her own label in 2015. You've probably seen her voluminous dresses, or her recent sneaker collaboration with ASICs. Cecilie says she operates at the intersection of couture and ready-to-wear – it's high craft, she creates her own textiles, and loves to use embroidery and smocking which lends her work a certain whimsey. But although expensive, it's not untouchable, as you will hear. Cecilie wears hers' on her bike! A very Danish approach.We talk about the challenges of upcycling precious scraps which defy standardisation. The idea of timelessness in a novelty-obsessed world.Building a creative business, and how Cecile approaches scale and growth. What it takes to make it - determination, for sure, but also a really clear sense of what you want, and how you treat others.Ultimately, though, this Episode is about joy - the pleasure we can find in clothes, even down to the sound of fabric rustling. With all our worries about sustainability, we can easily forget why we came to fashion in the first place.Thank you for listening to the show. This is the last Ep for Series 8. We'll be back in 4 weeks - Series 9 starts September 6!Wardrobe Crisis is an independent creation and we need your help to keep going and grow our audience. Please help by sharing your favourite Episodes. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Meet Danish creative Henrik Vibskov - fashion designer, costume designer, curator, musician and professor. He shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week (which is coming around again next week) but also Paris, and he has a store in New York. A supremely conceptual designer – his last collection, Long Fingers To Ma Toes, was inspired by the tomato in weird and wonderful ways.In this interview Henrik shares his experience of living up to CPHFW's recently introduced 18 Minimum Sustainability Standards. What did find de-motivating about trying to implement sustainability initiatives, and what kept him going? But also, how did he get here? Why the vegetable obsession? Would anyone come to a 3-hour fashion show? (Spoiler alert: they did!) What is fashion actually for in 2023? And what do the next generation of artistic designers need to make it? It's all up for discussion in this charismatic convo.Enjoy the show? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent creation and we need your help to keep going and grow our audience. Please help by sharing your favourite Episodes. Thank you!Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
A garment project that fails because it's made from unsuitable fabric is both heartbreaking and costly. But navigating the selection available in fabric shops and online can feel overwhelming, particularly if you're new to garment sewing, or have recently returned after some years. So in this solo episode, we're going back to the basics of fabric. We'll be laying the foundations on which to build our knowledge of fabric types, and what garment styles each fabric is suitable for. Support the podcast over on Patreon! The custom croquis app is MyBodyModel. If you enjoyed Episode #50: The Future of Fabrics that I made last year, then I thoroughly recommend you listen to Episode #188: Future Fabrics: Sustainable Textiles Masterclass with Amanda Johnston of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast.
We hear so much about product in fashion; about the clothes, and the brands. Thankfully, we're now starting to hear more about the makers, garment workers and skilled artisans behind the manufacturing scenes. But we still hear very little from the people and processes behind the raw materials.This week, we're looking at wool, with a lovely interview with Tasmanian woolgrower Simon Cameron, who Clare met seven years ago while writing Wardrobe Crisis. Simon manages Kingston in the northern Midlands of Tasmania, near(ish) to Launceston. His father farmed it before him. In fact, the property has been it in the family for four generations. Now, as then, Simon shares the joint with wombats, wallabies, bettongs even Tassie devils, and mob of superfine Merino sheep. But the little things are just as important - the native grasses and wild flowers, which, here, are largely intact in some of the state's last remaining pristine grasslands as they were pre-colonial invasion.What are the challenges of managing the land in this way? What's life really like on the land? How is Kingston's clip produced and makes it so special? And what's the story behind MJ Bale's quest to make carbon neutral wool?Love the show? We are proudly independent, and rely on our listeners to help us stick around. Can you share the episode on social media, or write us a glowing review in Apple podcasts?Find Clare on Instagram & Twitter. More on www.thewardrobecrisis.com Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
The fashion industry produces 20% of global wastewater and more carbon emissions than ALL international flights and ALL maritime shipping COMBINED. If nothing changes, by 2050 the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world's carbon budget. Ex-Vogue journalist and founder of The Wardrobe Crisis (the book, podcast and academy) Clare Press joins me to wrestle the quandaries: Is vegan leather ethical? Are recycled plastic leggings green? What labels are legit carbon neutral? Does the stuff I donate to St Vinnies just go to landfill? (Yup.) Is it true when I return something online it goes to landfill and not back on rack? (Double yup!). I wanted to do this episode to set the truly shocking facts straight and share the tangible better options, but also to posit the wild idea of redefining fashion style in a new, far more creative way. Dig in!Check out The Wardrobe Crisis, the book, podcast and academy of courses Follow Clare on instagram We discuss an Atlantic article about returning online purchases, you can read it here. Clare's Recommendations:The scorecard/resources for finding “good” brands: The Or Foundation, Oxfam's Naughty or Nice, Fashion Revolution and Baptist World Aid Guide. The book to read: Loved clothes last by Orsola De CastroThe recycling app: UpparelThe influencer to follow: Maggis ZhuThe documentary to watch: 'Slay' The label: The Social Outfit in Newtown based in Sydney, or check out the sister organisations in Melbourne and London. I mentioned that Kay Montano in London had recommended a 1951 film The Man in the White Suit .....If you need to know a bit more about me… head to my "about" page. Subscribe to my Substack newsletter for more such conversation. Get your copy of my book, This One Wild and Precious Life Let's connect on Instagram! It's where I interact the most. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Amy and Kirsty have taken some time off for the school holidays. We hope you enjoy listening to this interview Kirsty recorded with Clare Press a couple of years ago.Back in Nov 2019 Kirsty had a great conversation with the extraordinary Clare Press from Wardrobe Crisis. Clare is also the Sustainability Editor of Vogue Australia and an incredible author among many other talents. She is truly inspirational and we hope that you learn something new and are inspired by what she has to share about fashion and it's impact on the environment.In this episode we:● Talk about fashion and the effect that our insatiable desire for fast fashion has on our planet;● Highlight some of the alarming statistics around fashion and the environment;● Discuss the idea of a shopping detox and the unexpected benefits;● Dream and hope for a more ethical and sustainable future for fashion;We hope from this conversation we all learn something and puts a smile on your face.Things mentioned in this episode and other helpful links:● Shopping Questions● Wardrobe Crisis Podcast● Clare Press● Clare's books, Wardrobe Crisis & Rise & Resist● Wardrobe #1 Episode ● Wardrobe #2 Episode● Women Against Waste Episode● UK Parliaments' Fixing Fashion Report● GuppyFriend BagThank you again to Clare Press for your time!!If you learnt something new today then its your turn to leave us a review!For more details on how to connect with us head to our website.For details on becoming a Patreon supporter take a look here. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Back in Nov 2019 Kirsty had a great conversation with the extraordinary Clare Press from Wardrobe Crisis. Clare is also the Sustainability Editor of Vogue Australia and an incredible author among many other talents.She is truly inspirational and we hope that you learn something new and are inspired by what she has to share about fashion and it's impact on the environment.In this episode we:● Talk about fashion and the effect that our insatiable desire for fast fashion has on our planet;● Highlight some of the alarming statistics around fashion and the environment;● Discuss the idea of a shopping detox and the unexpected benefits;● Dream and hope for a more ethical and sustainable future for fashion;We hope from this conversation we all learn something and puts a smile on your face.Things mentioned in this episode and other helpful links:● Shopping Questions● Wardrobe Crisis Podcast● Clare Press● Clare's books, Wardrobe Crisis & Rise & Resist● UK Parliaments' Fixing Fashion Report● GuppyFriend BagThank you again to Clare Press for your time!!Join our community ● Become a Patron – your monthly donation makes a huge difference to me being able to produce this podcast. Donations can be as little as $1 a month!● Follow us on Instagram● Follow us on Facebook● Join our Facebook group● Leave a review on Apple PodcastThank you to my sound engineer, Jarred from Four4ty Studio. Get bonus content on Patreon Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
The Check Your Thread podcast is one year old!!!! We just took a fortnight off after creating 52 weekly episodes, and today we're back with an ‘Ask Me Anything' episode! Aided by friends-of-the-podcast Julia Hincks and Naomi Bancroft, we read out and discuss some awesome questions submitted by CYT listeners. We cover favourite scrap projects, how we interact (or don't) with sewing trends, what gives me hope when faced with the climate crisis and lots more. And make sure you check out the show notes for the link to my epic Spotify playlist! Support the podcast over on Patreon! This episode features Julia Hincks. Her website is House of Miss Sew and you can find her at @juliahincks on Instagram. She previously featured on Episode #10: Overlockers & Coverstich Machines with Julia Hincks Episode #27: Zoe & Julia go Rag Rugging This episode also features Naomi Bancroft and you can find her at @whatnaomimade on Instagram. Favourite projects using scraps: So Zo UndiesMy denim patchwork dungarees (see image below)Waves and Wild Wonder undies patternWaves and Wild kid's Speedy pants patternDIY Daisy Rectangle sleeve top tutorial Trends: I Am Pattern Sunshine jeans patternFibre Mood Honey top pattern A blog post I wrote about my (then) new sewing machine, the Janome DKS30, AKA, lesser spotted orange Janome! Listen to the Spotify playlist I made for the Fabric Godmother Sewing Bee Party. Giving me hope: @intersectionalenvironmentalist on Instagram. Dream guests: Clare Press, creator of The Wardrobe Crisis podcast, @mrspress and @thewardrobecrisis on Instagram. Writer Aja Barber is @ajabarber on Instagram. Get her excellent book,'Consumed: The need for collective change; colonialism, climate change and consumerism' anywhere but Amazon. (See the cover pictured below)Amanda Lee McCarty, creator of Clotheshorse podcast, @crystal_visions and @clotheshorsepodcast on Instagram. If you haven't already, listen to Episode #50: The Future of Fabrics.
Fast-fashion brands have revolutionised the way we buy clothes but are also a major contributor to climate change. As one of TV's most-watched shows ditches its fast-fashion sponsors, are consumers set to change their shopping habits? How did our wardrobes get so crammed with clothes and can fashion ever be green? This is The Overview. Presented by Julia O'Driscoll with guests Aja Barber, author of Consumed: The Need For Collective Change; Colonialism, Climate Change & Consumerism, Clare Press, founder of The Wardrobe Crisis, and former Love Island contestant and sustainable fashion advocate Brett Staniland. With sound clips from fair fashion campaigner Venetia La Manna. Thanks to `The Week's Kari Wilkin. Produced by Rich Jarman.
Clare Press is the founder of The Wardrobe Crisis, journalist, filmmaker, author, presenter, creator of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast, producer and co-host of the Ethical Fashion podcast, the first ever VOGUE Sustainability Editor, the first Global Ambassador for the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Make Fashion Circular initiative, has been a member of Australian advisory board of Fashion Revolution since 2014, sits on Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Advisory Board, is part of Fashion Roundtable in the UK and is one of Global Fashion Agenda's Content Experts. This lady is cheeky, funny, super smart and I loved our chat. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
For Episode #32 of Check Your Thread, I got to talk with textile activist Shams el-Din Rogers. For me, this is the most powerful and thought provoking conversation I've had for the podcast to date. Shams shares her thoughts and perspective as an activist, advocate, teacher and campaigner. We get into the sources of Shams's frustrations, altering patterns of consumption, her experience as a black maker, active allyship, mending as a political act, making for those will limited resources and much more. I started this podcast with the goal of being educated and challenged. This conversation certainly had that impact on me and I've been thinking about it ever since. Enjoy. Support the podcast over on Patreon! Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers Shams volunteers with Creative Reuse Toronto, learn more about the organisation HERE. Learn more about the work of the OR Foundation HERE. Image source: OR Foundation Listen to an amazing episode (#150) of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast called Dead White Man's Clothes with Liz Ricketts from the OR Foundation HERE. Learn more about the Repair Futures project by Thick Present from the Netherlands HERE. Check out the excellent Clothes Horse podcast HERE and on Instagram HERE. Image source: Clothes Horse podcast The people's mending on Instagram HERE have produced a useful-looking booklet to help people keep their clothes in use for longer. Find it HERE. Check out the mending work of Noah Hirsch, @yung_curmudgeon on Instagram HERE. He mends damaged clothes that could not be donated to charity and places them in his local food pantry (see below): Image source: Yung Curmudgeon
Gordon Renouf from Good On You, chats to us about sustainable fashion. We all want to look good and stay up with the latest trends but how do we do this in a sustainable and ethical way? It's an area definitely worth solving as the global apparel industry accounts for an estimated 8% of emissions! That’s on par with the steel sector. It's a complex topic and one that is so confusing. Thankfully Gordon and his co-founder Sandra Capponi started Good on You, the #1 sustainability ratings platform for fashion brands. It independently rates brands and gives you an easy to understand overview of their supply chain sustainability and ethics. In this episode we cover: The challenges of the fashion industry to decarbonise Top tips for ensuring your fashion habits are more sustainable: hint - it’s just buying what you need Why Sydney’s love of linen might make it a more sustainable city than Melbourne Whether or not sustainable fashion is a class issue New types of emerging materials: like leather that’s made from mushrooms! This a topic we want to learn more about so if you know any amazing brands doing great things send us an email at hello@apositiveclimate.com *** Some more reading if you’re interested in the topic This Vogue article outlines some of the awesome companies doing work in leather alternatives. The 5 R’s of Fashion: Reduce, Rewear, Recycle, Repair and Resell Good on You "Made From" article series also touches on alternative sustainable fabrics. What to do about microfibres in your clothing. Also, you might want to check out some other great sustainable fashion podcasts including The Wardrobe Crisis with Clare Press and the Sustainable Fashion Forum. *** If you enjoy the show, subscribe! You can also follow us: on Instagram, Twitter, LinkedIn or say hi at hello@apositiveclimate.com Music by the late, great Nick Weaver Production by our hero Mark Spencer from Here.Media Socials by the legend Rebecca Sather Jenkins *** About the podcast A Positive Climate is an uplifting podcast about tackling climate change. An inspiring look at the products, people and technologies making a real difference. Hosted by Australian climate technology experts Alex McIntosh and Nick Zeltzer, two friends on a mission to find the solutions to keep our existential crises at bay. We cover it all on the show while keeping things optimistic and accessible: electric planes, waste eating maggots, plant-based meats, hydrogen made from beer, the solar revolution, the coolest new sustainable products and much much more. If you’re passionate about the environment, the latest clean technology or just want to know how to get involved in the movement, this podcast is for you! Say hi on Instagram, Twitter or our website. ***Music by the late, great Nick Weaver.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Welcome back to tea session 7! After talking about more serious topics these last episodes I thought it would be fun to switch it up and talk about one of my favorite things. I did a major closet clean out and realized how many things I owned that I caught myself wondering why I ever purchased them in the first place-anyone else ever have a moment like that? I came to the conclusion that there are staple items in everyone's wardrobe that I feel are more essential. Then I dive right into Fall 2021 fashion trends which I think are trends that are here to stay. I am loving what I am seeing so far. Hope you enjoy!