Podcast appearances and mentions of devin dabney

Joey is the co-founder and owner of his own hold company, called Ocelot Grips, out of Oregon. But Ocelot Grips is the end product, or at least the current end, of many, many years of Joey working in the industry as a hold shaper. He has designed and shaped holds for a lot of different brands over the years. He gets into his story in more detail in this episode, but he also offers some fascinating insights on his artistic philosophy for shapes and how that works in conjunction with his philosophy for functionality in shapes. Because hold shaping is like routesetting in that sense; it's partially an artistic craft as well as a utilitarian or commercial craft. Art, commerce, functionality—it's all wrapped up in the life of a hold shaper. And, as a longtime shaper and setter, Joey is a great guest for riffing on all of those finer points of the craft. General Topics Covered Introduction and Industry Status Joey's Background and Entry into Climbing Oregon's Significance to Hold Shaping Hold Design Philosophy and Learning Experiences Aesthetics vs. Function in Hold Design Founding Ocelot Grips Current Work and Future Plans Show Notes Ocelot Grips Ocelot Grips Instagram: @ocelotgrips Thank you EP Climbing and Rock Gym Pro for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this in-depth episode, hosts Maddy Cope and coach Flo Tilley explore the intricate relationship between flow state, climbing performance, and mindset. Flow, often described as a state of effortless control and total absorption, is more than just a performance booster, it's a transformative mental space where climbers feel deeply engaged and in sync with their challenges. Maddy and Flo dive into the science of flow, sharing practical techniques to cultivate this state by balancing skill and challenge, embracing playfulness, and applying mindfulness.Listeners will also learn how self-compassion plays a pivotal role in allowing climbers to quiet self-criticism and focus on being present. The hosts discuss how coaching can facilitate an individual's exploration of their personal experiences, leading to breakthroughs in both mental strategies and climbing performance. Whether you're battling mental barriers or looking to improve your performance, this conversation will help you tap into the flow state and find joy in your climbing journey.Takeaways:Flow is a natural experience that happens when skills and challenges align.Embracing playfulness and self-compassion can make it easier to access flow.Mindfulness helps slow down negative thoughts, creating space for peak performance.Coaching and self-reflection are powerful tools to enhance your mindset and approach to climbing.

Today's episode brings Ruth Jang to the show. Ruth is a routesetter at Central Rock Gym in Atlanta, Georgia. She first picked up setting as a bucket list challenge and because she saw a gap in the gym: not enough entry-level, competition-style boulders for people to learn from. Her thought? “Why not infiltrate from the inside and learn from the best?” Before she knew it, she was pulled into the gravity of the setting world. Today, Ruth is a USAC Level 3 routesetter with her first national event on the horizon this June. She's also set for citizen comps like Method Underground. Before setting, Ruth came from a background in academia and biomedical research, where she studied stem cells and the opioid epidemic. General Topics Covered How a negative became a positive: Ruth's unusual introduction to climbing An Eastern versus Western approach to team dynamics: collective and individual identity What is true collaboration in routesetting? The similarities between team sports and routesetting Communication and how it can change team dynamics Poetry and routesetting Handling arrogance in the setting industry Show Notes Find Ruth Jang on Instagram Find Ruth's poems, Logic of the Woods, all proceeds go towards the Southeastern Climbing Coalition (SCC) and Training Indonesians for Transition to Institutional Programs (TITIP). Central Rock Gym What is Futsal? The difference between Eastern and Western (collective versus individualistic). Further readings:  How East and West think in profoundly different ways, David Robson, BBC Cultural differences are far more nuanced than East vs West, Matt Hudson, Psyche “I think, therefore I am.” Resources and further reading on Eating Disorders:  National Eating Disorder Association National Institute of Mental Health - Eating Disorders Closing Notes If you'd like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle, or have questions, we'd love for you to reach out.  The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today's episode is sponsored by Essential Climbing and Trango. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney. 

Brian is the General Manager and Co-Owner of Bluestem Boulders in Ames, Iowa. It's a fairly new gym, having opened last November. The climbing walls and flooring at the gym are by Onsite, and the CRM software is by GymDesk. But what's noteworthy for today's conversation is that Bluestem is only two miles from the campus of Iowa State University, so students from the university form a large customer base for the gym. There are many other climbing gyms around the country near colleges, where students already frequent the gym. And there are also gyms near a college that are trying to figure out how to break into the university market, asking: “How do we get more of those college students to come into our gym? How do you draw the college demographic into a gym? How can a gym work with a nearby college? What kind of programs seem to resonate most with college students?” There are no magic answers to these questions, but there is plenty to talk about when it comes to better serving a college population, and that's the subject John gets into today with Brian. General Topics Covered College Demographics and Gym Proximity Marketing to College Students Programming for College Students System Boards and College Appeal Gym Operations and Observations Show Notes Bluestem Boulders Find Bluestem Boulders on Instagram: @bluestemboulders More background on the opening of Bluestem Boulders: Bouldering Gym Opens Two Miles From Iowa State University Thank you Butora and RGP for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Weightlifting in climbing. It's one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we're diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.We're talking to:Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.Jemma Powell – Lattice coach and former GB climber. Jemma supports recreational and performance climbers, specialising in injury prevention, strength training and postpartum coaching.Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.You'll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he's not lifting right now—but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting—moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.We'll cover:Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performanceWhat female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength trainingPortable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-timeThe compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use themWhy “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbingWhether you're curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level.

Today's episode brings routesetter Iza Nowak to the podcast. Nowak is a team climber turned routesetting powerhouse. She started climbing as a kid and has almost two decades of time on rocks and plastic. Her setting career has spanned multiple states. Now, Nowak is a lead setter at Sport Rock in Washington, D.C. She is a USAC Level 3 routesetter with competition experience at all levels, from climbing leagues to Qualifying Events to high-level citizens' comps, like Method Underground and national-level bouldering and sport competitions. Nowak has also traveled internationally to set, having recently returned from the Norwegian Youth Championships. Nowak brings all that knowledge to the show, diving into fundamentals for both competition and commercial routesetting, skills for leading a setting crew, and much more. General Topics Covered Iza's First Impressions of Routesetting as a Team Kid True or False Game of Routesetting What it Takes to Be a Commercial Routesetter The Qualities of a Good Headsetter Movement Understanding vs. Raw Strength What it Takes to be a Competition Routesetter USA Climbing Standards and Pathways Career Growth and Development Show Notes Find Iza Nowak on Instagram Sportrock Climbing Centers USA Climbing Routesetter Pathway Chart The book where the 60/100 statistic between genders on job applications can be found is Lean In: Women, Work, and the Will to Lead. This statistic was widely attributed to an internal report at Hewlett-Packard, although this claim has been shown to lack solid evidence and is likely based on a subjective observation rather than a rigorous study. Other, more robust studies like this one in the European Journal of Social Psychology, have disputed this statistic. Closing Notes If you'd like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle, or have questions–we'd love for you to reach out here. The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today's episode is sponsored by Rock Gym Pro and Bold Climbing. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

On this episode of the CBJ podcast, host John Burgman and Jonathan Landis, the CEO of Greater Heights, talk about the winding path from an idea to the construction and, finally, the grand opening of a new climbing gym. Greater Heights opened in early December 2024 in Fitchburg, Wisconsin—which is right around Madison—and has ropes, boulders and auto belays. The climbing walls at the gym are from Rockwerx, the flooring is from Asana, and Rock Gym Pro is the management software. John and Jonathan chat all about the origin of Greater Heights and the origin of Jonathan's involvement with the gym. They discuss Jonathan's outlook on how climbing gyms are like a subscription service, in a way. They also focus on the Midwest as a good region for a climbing gym, and Jonathan, as a lifelong Midwesterner, offers some keen insights on getting one started. General Topics Covered Greater Heights' Origin and Background Jonathan's Climbing Journey and Business Development Finding the Right Space and Facility Considerations Convincing Investors and Securing Financing Risk Assessment and Business Threats Midwest Market Analysis and Gym Appeal Show Notes Greater Heights Find Greater Heights on Instagram: @gh.climbing More background on the opening of Greater Heights: New Full-Service Gym Is Coming to Wisconsin's Capital This Winter Thank you Approach and EP Climbing for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

 In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth.Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs.Whether you're navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn't linear,  this one's for you.Key topics include:The psychology of projecting routesWhy letting goals “brew” improves performancePain tolerance and aging in climbingBalancing sponsorship with personal strugglesFinding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing's most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today's episode brings routesetter Ethan Paris to the recording studio. Paris comes from a film and creative background, giving him a unique perspective on how routesetters operate in a space that can be defined half by art and half by design. Hailing from the Northeast, he moved to Colorado in 2024 to set at the Climbing Collective gyms in Longmont, Loveland and Greeley. Paris is a USAC Level 2 routesetter and has set for over 20 local and USAC competitions nationwide. He's also participated in the Setter Showdown in Hawaii, taken setting clinics in London, and hopes to one day set for national-level events. Host Holly Chen talks to Paris about the prevalence of imposter syndrome in the routesetting industry. They explore the origins and characteristics of the phenomenon, from the term's conception in 1978 to how imposter syndrome impacts today's modern routesetting community. They talk about how it manifests across the gender spectrum, and how difficult it can be to overcome. Finally, they discuss how community is often the ticket out. General Topics Covered Ethan Paris' Background Defining Imposter Syndrome Imposter Syndrome Manifestation Community & Gender Factors Gender and Imposter Syndrome Combating Imposter Syndrome Supporting Others Creating Change [the_ad_group id="625"] Show Notes Find Ethan Paris on Instagram Climbing Collective Psychotherapy Theory, Research and Practice Volume 15, #3, Fall 1978 – The Imposter Phenomenon in High Achieving Women: Dynamics and Therapeutic Intervention by Pauline Rose Clance and Suzanne Imes New Yorker – Why Everyone Feels Like They're Faking It by Leslie Jamison Kaizen (Ky'zen), The Key to Japan's Competitive Success Other CBJ interviews and podcast guests who have talked about imposter syndrome:  Inclusion Takes Intention: Behind the Desk With Gabby Zonneveld at MetroRock Vans on the Wall – CBJ Podcast with Ally Cruz Keep Them Sketched Out – CBJ Podcast with Claire Kawainui Miller The Top CBJ Podcast Episode of 2024 for Routesetters Closing Notes If you'd like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle, or have questions–we'd love for you to reach out here. The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Bold Climbing and Rock Gym Pro sponsor today's episode. It was edited and produced by Holly Chen, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

Send us a textIn this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana, one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he's balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science.From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally.Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive trainingHow weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performanceThe mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-termWhy goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbingHis long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performanceDrew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success.

On this episode of the Climbing Business Journal podcast, host John Burgman is joined by Megan Cheek. Megan is the Digital Marketing Manager and Content Strategist for Climbing Collective, which includes the Inner Peaks gyms in North Carolina, Philadelphia Rock Gyms in Pennsylvania, and Hudson Boulders in New York. They talk about what the Climbing Collective is and how several different gyms and gym brands operate within it. From there, they chat about Megan's role as a content strategist and what it means to create content for gyms these days. John and Megan pinpoint the new Inner Peaks location, which is in the NoDa neighborhood of Charlotte. They discuss the NoDa gym's layout and the focus at the gym on the first-time climber's journey. To that point, Megan provides some insights on how a gym's layout can help foster the development of a climber, from beginners to longtime members. General Topics Covered What is the Climbing Collective? Megan's Role in Marketing Storytelling in Climbing Adapting to Changing Marketing Trends Inner Peaks Noda Design Neurodiversity in Climbing Staff Training on Failure Is the Art of Projecting Lost Indoors? Positive Experiences and Member Retention Show Notes @InnerPeaksClimbing @PhilaRockGym @HudsonBoulders Thank you Butora and Rock Gym Pro for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this episode, Impact Driver host Holly Chen speaks with Taylor Fragomeni. Like many other professional routesetters, Taylor's career started at her university's climbing wall, which for her was in in Bozeman, Montana, in 2012. Taylor then moved into working in the climbing space full-time. She's worn various hats over the years, the most significant being Head Routesetter and Head Coach at Spire Climbing and Fitness. She has set for dozens of local comps—many of which she chiefed—as well as several USAC youth comps up to the divisional level for both sport and bouldering. Now Taylor has stepped back from full-time routesetting to work with the Bozeman Climbing team again. She's also focusing on her own business, Tangent Climbing, where she coaches youth athletes, league climbers and other routesetters with the mission of helping folks develop a lifelong, sustainable relationship with the sport we love. When she's not on the wall or mentoring the next generation, Taylor enjoys writing and listening to music, indulging in thrillers, and connecting with her community. On the podcast, Taylor and Holly talk about routesetting occupational hazards, both physical and mental burnout, and how to tackle these challenges. They dissect differences between common injuries in competition setting and commercial setting, how those injuries can lead to physical burnout in routesetting, and how you can form budget-conscious partnerships with local businesses that benefit routesetters. Taylor also speaks on private coaching and the inspiration behind her business. Finally, they break down some routesetting efficiencies and injury prevention tips for various levels of routesetting, workloads, and ability levels. Thank you Butora and Essential Climbing for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Send us a textIn this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts, Andy Cave, Maddy Cope, Tom Herbert, and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad?The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense?Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself:

Today host Scott Rennak sits down with Garnet Moore, Executive Director of the Climbing Wall Association. Garnet is one of the most connected and central figures in the North American climbing industry, overseeing both the CWA and their annual trade show, the CWA Summit. His origins in the manufacturing side have equipped him with a wide perspective on the climbing industry and climbing culture. During his tenure at CWA, he has steered the organization through the COVID pandemic, helping industry businesses regain their footing and go from surviving to thriving. Today, he's leading the charge to preserve the culture of personal responsibility in our climbing facilities. Scott and Garnet talk about all these topics and much more. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects.Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines.Key Takeaways:Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance.Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them.Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects.Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock.Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene.

Today's guest is Roy Quanstrom. Roy is a USA Climbing Level 4 Routesetter and he's a hold shaper, having created Trango's Fuegos Calientes and Khans shapes. He's also the facility sales coordinator at Trango. The main focus of today's episode is the idea of sustainability in the world of climbing holds. What does that even mean? How is sustainability achieved? Where are we at right now when it comes to sustainability in the climbing holds sector? And where are things going or where might things be going? So, if you've ever wondered about the green movement as it pertains to climbing holds, or if you've ever wondered about recycling climbing holds, this episode is for you. There's always more to say on such a big topic, and there are many hold brands and manufacturers coming together to drive the industry forward, but Roy packs a lot of valuable insights from his perspective as a setter and shaper into this conversation, as well as thoughts on how the routesetting trade has changed over time and what goes into a great crew. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Today host Holly Chen meets with Armen Avanessian. Armen is the Head Routesetter and Operations Manager at Threshold Climbing in Oklahoma. Armen is a USAC Level 3 Routesetter and his setting career has spanned the state of Oklahoma, where he's worked as a desk staff member, routesetter, and now head routesetter and routesetting consultant. Coming up for Armen is the bouldering divisionals event at his home gym as well as his first time being the chief routesetter for a regionals event. Outside of slinging plastic, Armen is a route developer with several first ascents of boulders in the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge up to V double digits. Armen began consulting for gyms earlier this year, helping routesetters and gym managers build their hold selection, design setting programs, and educate setters. Also, this year Armen has been trying to diversify his hobbies and has picked up the guitar after a long hiatus. Holly and Armen's chat gets pretty technical, but they start off with an explainer on why gyms and routesetters might need consulting. They also talk about how the hold selection for the opening set can determine the style of climbing in the gym, and what differentiates an old-school hold selection from a contemporary or modern one. Armen offers a lot of practical tips on making the best out of tight hold budgets. He and Holly dissect the pros and cons of various grading systems. They touch on routesetter education, communication, leadership, and the four IFSC style components, getting into a deep discussion on which moves fit into which style component. Thank you Bold Climbing and RGP for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “comfort crisis” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth.Key Takeaways:Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference.Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start.The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond.Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training.Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance.

In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino.They explore Melissa's unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone.Key TakeawaysMelissa's transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges.Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime.The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains.How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle.Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12).Don't miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Welcome back to the Climbing Business Journal podcast. Today, host John Burgman chats with Josh Haynes. Josh first made waves in the industry as an elite-level climber, crushing top-shelf grades like V14s, 514b's, 514c's. But he also worked as a routesetter, which he talks about in this episode, and he had various staff roles at several different gyms. Most recently, he was hired as the new manager of Uplift Climbing in Shoreline, Washington. John and Josh talk about what Josh has gathered from those myriad experiences and how he plans to apply his insights to the managerial role at Uplift. A lot of Josh's wisdom about climbing gym management can be applied to communication at any staff level and also in any tier of the industry, not just managerial and not just at climbing gyms. We hope you enjoy this conversation with Josh Haynes! Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results.Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level.Key Takeaways:Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbersLISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performanceEssential recovery strategies for improving enduranceWhy personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alonePractical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectivenessWhether you're new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level!Links mentioned in the episode:https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQhttps://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645sThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today host Holly Chen chats with Ally Cruz. Ally is a Trango Grassroots Athlete and a USAC Level 3 Routesetter with a decade of climbing experience. Her routesetting career began at her university's climbing wall and quickly graduated to a commercial setting job at Edgeworks Climbing and Fitness in Seattle, Washington. From there, she bounced to Utah, back to Edgeworks, and eventually settled in her current position as Assistant Headsetter at the Seattle Bouldering Project Poplar gym. She has set and chiefed for many USAC-sanctioned comps and most recently set for the Vail Citizens event and helped with the Vail NACS as well. Ally has also set for notable affinity comps, such as Crux Fest and Impact. Outside of climbing, Ally is a well-rounded outdoorswoman; she loves mountain biking and surfing. In today's episode, Holly and Ally take a nuanced look at tokenization. They discuss the signs that someone is being tokenized, the unseen harms of tokenization, and how it can pigeonhole setters into roles that limit their progression and professional development. Ally is a real trooper as she and Holly dive into a vulnerable topic about how tokenization can lead minorities to perceiving other minorities as competition, rather than support. But they do turn the topic around to the bright side and discuss tangible tips that setters, headsetters and chief routesetters can employ to make sure tokenization does not happen on their teams. And if you're wondering what tokenization has to do with Vans shoes, be sure to listen to the full episode below. Thank you Trango and EP Climbing for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Today's guest is the founder and CEO of OnSite, Francis Larose. OnSite is based in Montreal, Quebec, and made history this past summer when it became likely the first North America-based wall manufacturer to complete a commercial climbing gym project in Europe. OnSite making the leap from the North American market to the European market is the reverse of what typically happens; much more common has been European builders pursuing gym projects in North America. That accomplishment for OnSite is a focal point of today's episode, but Francis and host John Burgman cover a lot of other ground too, including Francis's prior work in the video game industry, OnSite's urban boulders, and advice for other North American brands looking to go global. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world's most iconic climbs.Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job, set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy's and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes.If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport's rising stars.Key Takeaways:Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El CapitanHow competition climbing skills apply to big wallsEndurance training and preparation for big wall climbingHighlights from the upcoming film The Nose JobJoin Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

 In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world.Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will's unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed.In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane, and Will's thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard, crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds.With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents.Key Takeaways:Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of TimeUnique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major projectThe mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challengesHow Will's Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he's tackledThe evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projectsWhat's next on Will's radar, from Japan's hardest boulders to new UK projectsTune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world!And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On today's episode of the CBJ Podcast, host John Burgman and guest Andrew Potter chat about gym startups, software startups, market analysis and much more in between. Andrew is the founder of the RoKC climbing gyms as well as the founder of the software company Approach. In starting both a gym and a gym management technology company, he's had a fascinating journey as an entrepreneur in the climbing industry. He's also gained experience and insights on how to get a business idea off the ground, how to stay tenacious in turning an idea into a reality, and how to keep up with changing business trends. There's business wisdom packed throughout this episode—all anchored by Andrew's belief in seeing a need in a market (or in an entire industry) and figuring out a way to create something that meets that need. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen interviews Andy Nelson. Andy has been climbing since 1998, and he became the first paid routesetter at Vertical Endeavors in Minnesota around the mid 2000s. In the routesetting arena, he's done it all, from commercial setting and running a setting crew to comps all the way up to the divisional level. He worked for Nicros Volumes for a while and then, in his words, “went rogue” and “started shaping for everybody and their brother.” Andy has also seen every part of the hold manufacturing process, from being on the ground in a factory while pouring holds to design and branding work. Now, Andy owns and operates Method Grips. Andy and Holly start by diving into his memories of the good old days—or maybe the dark ages, some might say; a time when routesetters were paid by route and members did not have the luxury of choosing between gyms. They also talked about how Andy has witnessed the industry change over the years, some of the shifts that have allowed setters to do their job more safely and sustainably, and the potential of more oversight from government agencies in the future. Holly and Andy debated about whether routesetting is an art, and they got into some of the nitty-gritty details of holds, shaping materials, and the “evolutionary arms race” between routesetters and hold shapers. Thank you TRUBLUE and Strati Climbing for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you're pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting.Topics Covered:Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks.Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades.The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable.Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits.For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On this episode of the Climbing Business Journal podcast, host John Burgman meets with Climbing Roots owner Lindsay Runne. Climbing Roots' grand opening date is still a little up in the air, but the gym is getting ready to open its doors. During their conversation, John and Lindsay discuss some of the logistics of opening a new gym, what the whole process has been like for Lindsay, and what has gone into getting a gym ready to open. They also dive into Lindsay's decision to offer 24-hour access at Climbing Roots, an amenity that a number of other gyms have considered offering or are offering. Lindsay's insights can help other gym owners and managers get some clarity on the idea, or maybe just expand the conversation about 24-hour gym access. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr, about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes.Key topics include:Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development.Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance.Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level.Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches.For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today The Impact Driver host Holly Chen meets with Claire Gordon, a former competitive youth athlete turned coach and gym owner. Claire has a bachelor's degree in psychology with an emphasis on development psychology, and her coaching spans from coast to coast; from First Ascent in Chicago to Planet Granite Portland (now Movement), ABC Kids Climbing in Boulder, and finally starting her own independent team, PinkPoint Training in 2023. At PinkPoint, Claire does everything from coaching to administration to sponsorships, and, of course, routesetting. If asked what her proudest climbing accomplishments are, Claire will say it's her kids. Her athletes have gone to youth nationals, youth worlds, and are shaped into lifelong lovers of the sport. In the summer of 2024, Claire achieved a lifelong dream of opening her own climbing gym and began The Campus Climbing in North Boulder, due to open in early 2025. In this conversation, Claire and Holly talk about routesetting for a targeted, specific audience: elite youth athletes. They also talk about the unique structure of independent youth teams, what comp climbing really is, and how unpredictable it can be for climbers and coaches during comp day. They get into the weeds about coaching movement techniques and handling emotional pressure. And with Claire's extensive experience coaching with commercial gyms, they cover how to translate her tailored routesetting and coaching skills to commercial gyms. Last but not least, they talk about the old school routesetting mindset of forcing movement and how that can be a disservice to not just youth athletes, but the community at large. We hope you enjoy this episode of the Impact Driver Podcast! Thank you Approach and Kilter for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet—Vela Stivina in Croatia—sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits.Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures.Key Takeaways:Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence.Weather Matters: Jen's preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment.Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing.Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies.Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals.Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles.Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits.Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn't always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding.Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence.Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it's a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching.Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries.Key Topics Include:Sarah's Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned.Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery.Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On this episode of the Climbing Business Journal Podcast, host John Burgman speaks with Hailey Caissie. Hailey is the Programs Manager at The Crag in Tennessee, and she is also the author of 101 Climbing Games and Activities. So, for anyone who struggles to think of games to play in youth programs or even adult programs, this book may be an interesting resource. It's a tool that could be helpful to coaches, parents, youth athletes, managers, and simply anyone who climbs. John and Hailey discuss the writing process a bit and how the book came to be, and Hailey shares several games covered in her book, from Blind Climb to Tug of War. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference.Highlights from this Discussion Include:Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age.Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration.Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers.Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age.Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength.Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body.Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time.This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Podcast, host Josh Hadley sits down with renowned coach Ollie Torr, who has guided multiple Olympic athletes and collaborated with national teams worldwide. Together, they delve into the rigorous and strategic training required for Olympic climbers, revealing what distinguishes potential Olympic medallists from other elite international competitors—both in terms of personality traits and training approaches.Key Takeaways:The key differences between international competition climbers and those poised to win Olympic medalsThe vital role of a strong support network, including parents, coaches, physiotherapists, and media managers, in an athlete's journey to successThe importance of physical training focused on building resilience, cultivating the ability to push limits, and embracing challengesHow training cycles, including deliberate "training holes" and super compensation, push athletes to their peak performanceThe significance of dedication, sacrifice, and trust in the training process for achieving success at the highest levelThe role of genetics and body type in climbing performance, alongside the impact of lifestyle choices and the joy of trainingDon't miss this latest episode and elevate your climbing knowledge with expert insights from Josh Hadley and Ollie Torr.And best of luck to all the GB athletes in Paris 2024! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On this episode of the Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen talks with Blake Green. Blake is the head setter at High Point Climbing and Fitness in Birmingham, Alabama. A veteran of the craft with over a decade of routesetting experience under his belt, Blake is a USAC Level 4 routesetter and has set for everything from qualifier to national-level USAC youth competitions. In his spare time, he loves to read and develop routes in his home of the American Southeast. Blake studied philosophy for both his undergraduate and master's degrees, so he brings a novel perspective to routesetting, his passion for which is conspicuous. Blake and Holly look at routesetting and climbing culture through the lens of social theory, behavioral economics, and how one defines success as a routesetter. They discuss several books in today's episode, with Blake outlining the main concepts covered. The pair also talked about different kinds of learning environments, the “10,000-Hour Rule,” and the adaptation of social theory to diverse routesetting crews. Blake talks about the mistakes he made over the years and how they shaped his perception going forward. And they get into the weeds on specific moves, competitions, and the limits of the USAC system. We hope you enjoy this episode of the Impact Driver Podcast! Thank you EP Climbing and Rock Gym Pro for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

This is the second of a two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve McClure, one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss what it means to continue pushing boundaries and achieving peak performance in your 50s. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and big walling. He achieved his highest sport climbing grade at 46 years old, ‘Rainman' 9b at Malham cove, defying expectations and setting an inspiring example for climbers everywhere.Topics Covered:Life in Decades: Steve reflects on how his life has evolved from his 20s and 30s into his 40s and 50s, including changes in family, work, and climbing.Changes and Challenges: The main changes and challenges Steve has experienced as he's gotten older.Climbing Performance: Which aspects of performance continue to improve with age and which tend to stagnate or decline.Training Focus: How Steve works on maintaining and improving his performance.Balance Shift: How his focus has shifted between bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing over the years.Performance Energy: Where Steve currently focuses most of his performance energy.Effective Training: What training methods are working for Steve now and how have they changed.Common Mistakes: Common errors ageing climbers make and how to avoid them.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.Tune in to this insightful conversation to learn from an absolute climbing legend. Listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms

In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with the legendary Steve McClure to discuss the secrets behind maintaining and performing into your 50s. Steve's storied career includes ground-breaking ascents and impressive repeats across all climbing disciplines, making him a unique authority on the subject.Highlights from this discussion include:Emphasising the importance of aligning training with specific climbing goals for optimal results.Understanding and addressing weaknessesImportance of top-quality trainersThe significance of dedicating undistracted time to climbing and how full-time commitment can lead to substantial improvements.This 13min episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that delves into the evolution of climbing grades, training methods, and Steve's unique approach to staying at the top of his game.For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you to our listeners, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Evan Pearce is the Senior Director of Movement Gyms Colorado. Pearce came from humble beginnings at what is now Movement Sunnyvale—his first industry position was as a front desk worker, which did include the occasional birthday party belay. He then became the assistant manager at the Sunnyvale gym, then became a manager at Movement Belmont, eventually working his way up to Senior Director in Colorado. All of these different career advancements and experiences gave Pearce the knowledge he shares in this podcast episode, especially regarding insights into working in and moving through certain gym roles, gym programming, and measuring success. He also mentions some summer camp hacks for tired kids. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling.  His notable achievements include ‘Mutation' 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of ‘Rainman' 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK.Topics Covered:➡️ Operating at the Limit.➡️ Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit?➡️How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences.➡️The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution.➡️ Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steve's performance.➡️ Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.Tune in to this fascinating conversation to gain insights from one of the UK's climbing legends. Listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Kegan Minock is the Gym Director and Head Routesetter at Gripstone Climbing in Colorado Springs, Colorado. Having gotten his start in the industry through the youth competition scene, Kegan began setting at Lifetime Fitness at the age of 17 before transitioning into setting at commercial facilities and becoming a USAC Level 4 routesetter. His industry career thus far has spanned leading routesetting at the iconic 90s gym ROCK'n & JAM'n to shaping holds of his own for setters. Our conversation today covers industry growing pains, what it means to be a professional routesetter, the evolution of the trade, the ethics of unpaid work, and the effects of social media on routesetting. Thank you Approach and Bold Climbing for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

In today's Podcast Highlight, we delve into the world of climbing with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber currently taking on the challenging boulder problem Terra Nova, graded 8C+. Here are the key insights from our conversation:Approaching Goals with Determination: Jana shares her approach to climbing goals, emphasising the importance of focus and determination while enjoying the journey.Dealing with Doubts and Criticism: Despite facing doubts and criticism, Jana stays resilient and trusts in her abilities, showcasing the mental fortitude required in climbing.Training with Lattice Training: Jana discusses her experience training with Lattice Training and the remarkable improvements she's seen in her climbing performance.Exploring Climbing Opportunities: Jana encourages climbers to explore the diverse climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic, highlighting its unique challenges and rewards.This Podcast Highlight offers a glimpse into Jana's climbing journey and her passion for the sport. For the full conversation and more insights, listen to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with coach Maddie Cope to delve into the evolution of education and training in the climbing world. They discuss significant changes in three key areas: energy systems, female athletes, and strength and conditioning. Tom and Maddie share insights on how understanding and approaches have transformed over the years, leading to positive outcomes in climbing performance and training effectiveness.Main topics include:➡️ Energy Systems: Improved categorisation and understanding of energy systems have enhanced training effectiveness and load management.➡️ Female Athletes: Education on the menstrual cycle and female physiology has empowered female climbers, improving training structure and performance.➡️ Strength and Conditioning: Shifts in attitudes towards strength and conditioning now emphasise specificity, progressive overload, and injury prevention, with a focus on core and upper body strength.If you enjoyed this episode, let us know in the comments below!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Introducing our first ever mixtape from The Climbing Zine. The Microdose Mixtape pairs Luke Mehall's spoken word poetry, with the music of Devin Dabney. Enjoy. Merch is available here: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Tapes and vinyl will be available shortly

In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, hosts Maddy Cope and Tom Randall discuss Lattice's brand-new online flexibility training course. This course emphasises the importance of education and knowledge-sharing in climbing training, focusing on three main goals:➡️ Educating climbers on methods beyond passive static stretching➡️ Integrating flexibility training into overall training programs➡️ Helping climbers select exercises based on their flexibility level.The course provides step-by-step guides and assessments, to transform your approach to flexibility training and promote a sustainable, informed method.Highlights include:➡️ Training Frequency➡️ Menstrual Cycle Considerations➡️ Structured Approach➡️ Evolving Training Culture➡️ Active vs. Passive Stretching➡️ Importance of Education

In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, coach Maddy Cope is joined by coach Billy Ridal to discuss the challenges and insecurities faced while climbing a difficult pitch on a big wall. They delve into the physical and mental efforts required to overcome insecurities and stick with the climb.Topics include:Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls.Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them.Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this week's podcast join Lattice Training coach,Josh Hadley, and fellow coachFran Giacomozzi, as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers.Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo.Key Topics Covered:Integrating flexibility with climbingAt-home body weight exercisesEssential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobilityAt-home body weight exercises, including upper bodyManaging soreness and dealing with injuriesStrategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progressJoin us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether you're struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips.If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We'd love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight.https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/Don't miss out—tune in to the full episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! Enhance your climbing flexibility and performance with the expert guidance of Josh and Fran.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's episode, host and coach, Maddy Cope, is joined by  Dr. Sarah Duvall,  a women's health and fitness specialist, to explore the intersection of climbing, fitness, and motherhood. Maddy brings her experience from coaching elite climbers post-partum such as Emily Harrington, and her passion for climbing to the conversation as she delves into Sarah's expertise. With over 15 years in the climbing industry and a background in coaching and climbing performance, Maddy is excited to learn from Sarah's wealth of experience.Together, they uncover practical strategies and exercises to enhance your climbing journey, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. From managing fear and anxiety to finding balance and prioritisation, this episode is packed with valuable insights:Topics include:Insights into Sarah's personal climbing journey postpartum and her impressive climbing achievements.The importance of breathing techniques and core strength for climbers, particularly during pregnancy and postpartum.Practical exercises and tips for improving breathing patterns and core engagement.Strategies for managing fear and anxiety when returning to climbing postpartum.Finding balance and prioritisation in different seasons of life.Don't miss out on this empowering conversation with Dr. Sarah Duvall. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more.Some links from Sarah to help support the podcast:Heel hooking hamstring strain strengthening prevention protocol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqvTjDcGZXQ&t=9sAdvanced hip rotational exercises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoC5YhmojGQ&t=37sDrawing in vs abdominal brace: https://youtu.be/WA-mFvykZ9k?si=hQVcYeG1TDquRDpKRib cage mobility breathing exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1AkIPbnbfgPushing vs pulling and core pressure: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4ezNr6HXGu/?igsh=dHB1dHllbTB6dDBmThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cameron Hartley to explore two interesting theories. The ‘Central Governor Theory', which suggests that a system in our brain signals when it's time to stop exercising to prevent potential harm, and the ‘Psycho-Biological Theory', which integrates psychological constructs into our understanding of endurance performance.Highlights from this discussion include:Understanding exercise cessation: The role of the brain in regulating physical limits according to the Central Governor Theory.Integrating psychology in endurance: How the Psycho-Biological Theory emphasises the perception of effort and motivation.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that covers additional insights on endurance performance and how these theories can be applied in training. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.Tune in for this captivating episode highlight on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.