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In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth.Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs.Whether you're navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn't linear, this one's for you.Key topics include:The psychology of projecting routesWhy letting goals “brew” improves performancePain tolerance and aging in climbingBalancing sponsorship with personal strugglesFinding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing's most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this Pro Clinic, Lattice Co-Founder and Elite Climber Coach Tom Randall explores: How to improve as climbers without adding any strength or fitness Using the "chunking" tactic to improve by up to 3 grades How to expedite a projecting timeline Proper tapering for peak performance Conditions tactics, indoors and out A key tactic to unlocking indoor sends A sneaky tip to send your board project faster Boosting stoke to boost performance Key concepts to managing fear Accessing the last 0.01% of Try Hard Building a proper technique library What sets Will Bosi apart, and how we can harness it #1 factor Lattice data shows to benefit outdoor performance - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world's most iconic climbs.Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job, set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy's and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes.If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport's rising stars.Key Takeaways:Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El CapitanHow competition climbing skills apply to big wallsEndurance training and preparation for big wall climbingHighlights from the upcoming film The Nose JobJoin Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world.Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will's unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed.In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane, and Will's thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard, crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds.With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents.Key Takeaways:Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of TimeUnique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major projectThe mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challengesHow Will's Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he's tackledThe evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projectsWhat's next on Will's radar, from Japan's hardest boulders to new UK projectsTune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world!And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Climbing Coach Tom Randall is back on the show to discuss: The world of urban climbing (AKA buildering) How to get into urban climbing What's uniquely sketchy about climbing buildings compared to rock Scouting tips and tricks to find an urban proj The psyched buildering scenes in London and Berlin Running from the law Plus, Tom answers listener questions on all things training and performance. Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! SCARPA: Whether you're a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. With a commitment to sustainability. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube @thestruggleclimbingshow HERE is the flexibility video I mention during the Q&A - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Tom Randall is an iconic climber and founder. You might know him as one of the Wide Boyz, as one of the founders of Lattice Training, as a high level coach, or for his 5.14 Trad FA's or even his FA of the worlds hardest crack boulder, aptly named “The Kraken” [V13]. Ya, Tom's done it all, and has helped the best in the world do it even better.In this chat, Tom gives a masterclass on what actually gets climbers better. He also shares how to best use data from metrics, how the testing for metrics have evolved, and why Lattice started capturing these metrics in the first place!SHOW NOTES:Lattice TrainingQuantifying Technique Video by LatticeAidan and Bosi on Burden Of Dreams ReplicaTom's InstagramWide Boyz YouTubeMagnus Midtbo Testing with LatticeSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference.Highlights from this Discussion Include:Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age.Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration.Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers.Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age.Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength.Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body.Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time.This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
This is the second of a two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve McClure, one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss what it means to continue pushing boundaries and achieving peak performance in your 50s. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and big walling. He achieved his highest sport climbing grade at 46 years old, ‘Rainman' 9b at Malham cove, defying expectations and setting an inspiring example for climbers everywhere.Topics Covered:Life in Decades: Steve reflects on how his life has evolved from his 20s and 30s into his 40s and 50s, including changes in family, work, and climbing.Changes and Challenges: The main changes and challenges Steve has experienced as he's gotten older.Climbing Performance: Which aspects of performance continue to improve with age and which tend to stagnate or decline.Training Focus: How Steve works on maintaining and improving his performance.Balance Shift: How his focus has shifted between bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing over the years.Performance Energy: Where Steve currently focuses most of his performance energy.Effective Training: What training methods are working for Steve now and how have they changed.Common Mistakes: Common errors ageing climbers make and how to avoid them.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.Tune in to this insightful conversation to learn from an absolute climbing legend. Listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms
In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with the legendary Steve McClure to discuss the secrets behind maintaining and performing into your 50s. Steve's storied career includes ground-breaking ascents and impressive repeats across all climbing disciplines, making him a unique authority on the subject.Highlights from this discussion include:Emphasising the importance of aligning training with specific climbing goals for optimal results.Understanding and addressing weaknessesImportance of top-quality trainersThe significance of dedicating undistracted time to climbing and how full-time commitment can lead to substantial improvements.This 13min episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that delves into the evolution of climbing grades, training methods, and Steve's unique approach to staying at the top of his game.For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you to our listeners, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling. His notable achievements include ‘Mutation' 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of ‘Rainman' 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK.Topics Covered:➡️ Operating at the Limit.➡️ Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit?➡️How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences.➡️The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution.➡️ Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steve's performance.➡️ Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.Tune in to this fascinating conversation to gain insights from one of the UK's climbing legends. Listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's Lattice Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with coach Maddie Cope to delve into the evolution of education and training in the climbing world. They discuss significant changes in three key areas: energy systems, female athletes, and strength and conditioning. Tom and Maddie share insights on how understanding and approaches have transformed over the years, leading to positive outcomes in climbing performance and training effectiveness.Main topics include:➡️ Energy Systems: Improved categorisation and understanding of energy systems have enhanced training effectiveness and load management.➡️ Female Athletes: Education on the menstrual cycle and female physiology has empowered female climbers, improving training structure and performance.➡️ Strength and Conditioning: Shifts in attitudes towards strength and conditioning now emphasise specificity, progressive overload, and injury prevention, with a focus on core and upper body strength.If you enjoyed this episode, let us know in the comments below!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, hosts Maddy Cope and Tom Randall discuss Lattice's brand-new online flexibility training course. This course emphasises the importance of education and knowledge-sharing in climbing training, focusing on three main goals:➡️ Educating climbers on methods beyond passive static stretching➡️ Integrating flexibility training into overall training programs➡️ Helping climbers select exercises based on their flexibility level.The course provides step-by-step guides and assessments, to transform your approach to flexibility training and promote a sustainable, informed method.Highlights include:➡️ Training Frequency➡️ Menstrual Cycle Considerations➡️ Structured Approach➡️ Evolving Training Culture➡️ Active vs. Passive Stretching➡️ Importance of Education
In this week's podcast join Lattice Training coach,Josh Hadley, and fellow coachFran Giacomozzi, as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers.Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo.Key Topics Covered:Integrating flexibility with climbingAt-home body weight exercisesEssential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobilityAt-home body weight exercises, including upper bodyManaging soreness and dealing with injuriesStrategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progressJoin us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether you're struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips.If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We'd love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight.https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/Don't miss out—tune in to the full episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! Enhance your climbing flexibility and performance with the expert guidance of Josh and Fran.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, coach Maddy Cope is joined by coach Billy Ridal to discuss the challenges and insecurities faced while climbing a difficult pitch on a big wall. They delve into the physical and mental efforts required to overcome insecurities and stick with the climb.Topics include:Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls.Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them.Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cameron Hartley to explore two interesting theories. The ‘Central Governor Theory', which suggests that a system in our brain signals when it's time to stop exercising to prevent potential harm, and the ‘Psycho-Biological Theory', which integrates psychological constructs into our understanding of endurance performance.Highlights from this discussion include:Understanding exercise cessation: The role of the brain in regulating physical limits according to the Central Governor Theory.Integrating psychology in endurance: How the Psycho-Biological Theory emphasises the perception of effort and motivation.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that covers additional insights on endurance performance and how these theories can be applied in training. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.Tune in for this captivating episode highlight on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Anna Hazelnutt and Ryan Devlin go unscripted and unfiltered in this Crag Chat as they explore: Anna's Smith Rock tick list and updates AI-generated theme songs for the show Getting strong on a project but getting weaker as a climber Flying practice (the importance of taking falls) Feet pic update... and friendly competition How to make $20M a month on OnlyFans Climbing News: Speed Record, Michaela Kiersch, Tom Randall, Will Bosi Watch the uncut video at The Struggle's or Anna's Patreons: patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow patreon.com/annahazelnutt - Shoutout to Boulder Bears caffeinated gummy bears for sponsoring this Crag Chat. Climbing should be fun... and so should the fuel we use to get sendy! Boulder Bears taste like candy, and kick like coffee! Each caffeinated gummy bear contains collagen and 20mg of caffeine so you can take care of your tendons while dialing in the perfect level of boost and focus for your sesh. Plus, they're crazy delicious. Score a free travel pack plus 15% off using code STRUGGLE! Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @annahazelnutt - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, it's currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, it's rumoured it could be 9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process.Topics include:Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress.Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her.Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers. Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges.Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles.Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: It's hidden gems!Join us in today's episode where Jana Švecová shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects. Tune in on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, or your preferred platform to gain valuable insights from one of the climbing world's strongest women.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In this episode, join host Tom Randall as he sits down with Jill Whitaker, she is a 61-year-old climber and mother of two accomplished pro climbers (Pete and Katy Whitaker). She is a testament to the power of perseverance and dedication!We will explore Jill's remarkable journey into climbing post-60 and her unique perspectives on training and climbing.Main topics:Jill's climbing background: From her early years in trad climbing to her rediscovery of the sport and return to climbing.Starting training and setting goals: How she juggled supporting her children's climbing alongside her own training after a long break from the sport.Jill's training program: Insights into her training program, focusing on multiple areas including; pulling strength, finger strength, and maintaining power endurance and flexibility.Experiences with testing climbing performance: Jill's experiences with testing, and the positive feedback she received from friends.Climbing trip to Leonidio, Greece: Highlights from her recent climbing trip, where she achieved personal bests on some challenging routes.Reflections and Advice: Jill reflects on her climbing journey and the impact of structured training on her performance. Plus, advice for climbers of all ages seeking to improve..Throughout the conversation, Jill's journey serves as a testament to the power of a positive attitude, perseverance, and the importance of having a structured training program.Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.Tune in to gain valuable insights and inspiration from Jill Whitaker's incredible and wholesome attitude towards the sport and life, available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Coach Tom Randall is BACK, and this time we've got 5 climbers joining the party! Tom coaches climbers from a wide-range of backgrounds on their climbing issues, including: How to train for resting better on route Overcoming mental blocks of not feeling ready to push into the next grade When to shift from a performance phase to weight training phase How much the average climber should focus on climbing vs off-the-wall training How to identify and then train up the three endurance energy systems How to build endurance on nothing but a hang board Tall climber issues and how to address them in the gym vs out on rock Blowing Ryan's mind about the measurement system in the UK Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level. Boulder Bears: Taste like candy, kick like coffee! Each caffeinated gummy bear contains collagen and 20mg of caffeine so you can take care of your tendons while dialing in the perfect level of boost and focus for your sesh. Plus, they're crazy delicious. Score a free travel pack plus 15% off using code STRUGGLE! Arc'teryx Climb Academy: Set against the stunning backdrop of Squamish, BC, this is your place to level up your climbing and have an unforgettable time - no matter your skill level. From clinics taught by top athletes to film premieres and live music, it's 3 days of inspiration, education, and community. Clinics go on sale May 9th! Rungne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon.Listen to the Podcast highlight, or the full episode on our Spotify, Apple Music, Stitcher, and many more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's Lattice Podcast, Coach Josh Hadley sits down with Dr Simon Fryer to discuss the challenges of testing rock climbers, highlighting the differences between climbing and other sports.Dr Simon Fryer is a Senior Lecturer in Sport & Exercise Physiology at the University of Gloucestershire, with a PhD in biomedical science. His background is in sports, exercise, and biomedical science, with a specialist interest in cardiovascular and cardiometabolic physiology. As an exercise physiologist, he delivers a range of Sports and Exercise Science courses and his research focuses on the impact of exercise and physical activity on health, disease, and sports performance, specifically concerning the cardiovascular and cardiometabolic systems. He has also delivered many talks on the importance of physical activity and health, such as his TEDx Cheltenham talk "Are You Sitting Comfortably?"Key topics include:Health benefits of climbingMisguided information in the climbing communityThe inconvenient truth about getting good at climbingImportance of base training and lower limb strengthAdvice for pursuing an academic or research routeWe also cover:Importance of peripheral adaptations in climbing and the role of aerobic fitnessCurrent best practices for testing climbers, including occlusion tests and near-infrared spectroscopyVision for the future of climbing performance testing, including the use of big data and technologySo whether you're a sports science advocate, or simply curious to hear more of the science behind climbing, take a seat and enjoy today's podcast through Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's Lattice Training podcast, coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cam Hartley to discuss three key areas; Training myths and misconceptionsPsychobiology and endurance performanceImportance of consistency in training for climbingCam is not just one of the strongest members of the Lattice Training coaching team, but also has a BSc in Sports Science and wrote his research paper on the strength differences between the strongest and weakest hand. Since then he has begun a PhD on the impact of mental fatigue on health and performance in rock climbing athletes.As Cam is a specialist in psychobiology and its relationship to performance, Josh and Cam start to explore the psychobiological model of endurance performance and its implications for training and performance. They also delve into the aerobic and anaerobic thresholds and the importance of training in specific zones to optimise endurance. So if you are psyched about training your endurance and improving performance, this is a great episode for you! So whether you want to understand how to improve your endurance training, or just looking to debunk some climbing training myths, tune in to today's show. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson. James recently established ‘Bon Voyage' (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport.James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life' (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Despite that, there has been controversy surrounding the grading in his earlier career.Although his earlier efforts faced some controversy, with a few of his climbs like The Groove being downgraded after establishment. This criticism, which even included accusations of overgrading for media attention, forced James to re-evaluate the entire grading system.The experience turned out to be a turning point for James. He spent years rebuilding his confidence and credibility as a climber, making significant ascents in Europe. This included repeating the downgraded ‘The Walk of Life' and tackling other difficult routes like ‘Tribe' (E11) and ‘Lexicon' (E11 7a).So when James established 'Bon Voyage' in France and felt it was his hardest route yet, he initially hesitated to propose a grade. However, after witnessing other accomplished climbers struggle on the route, James decided to propose the world's first E12 once again, ten months after his initial ascent. This episode dives into James' experience with 'Bon Voyage' and the lessons learned from his past grading controversies, but also the validation James received when none other than Adam Ondra, successfully repeated the route and agreed with the E12 grade.In this episode, James dives deep into:Sharing ‘Bon Voyage' with Adam OndraWhat makes this route unlike anything else out thereAdam Ondra's approach to riskWhat beta Adam Ondra used for this epic routeWho else is trying ‘Bon Voyage'The evolution of trad grades and why did James propose the controversial E12 grade for ‘Bon Voyage'This episode is a must-listen for any climber interested in the cutting edge of trad climbing, the ever-evolving world of grading, and the unique perspectives of two climbing legends!Don't miss this captivating episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!
Tune in to today's episode as host and coach Maddy Cope chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his six-week American adventure to free climb El Capitan's The Nose (5.14a/8b+). This historic route, famous for its challenging granite smears, was first aid climbed over 47 days by Warren Harding and various others in 1958 and first free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993 (an ascent which was well ahead of it's time!) With such a legacy, it's no surprise Billy and Alex set their sights on it.Billy shares how his long-held dream of climbing big walls led him to El Cap, where he and his partner Alex Waterhouse etched their names in history as the first Brits to free climb The Nose. From weathering storms in a leaky portaledge 1,500 feet above the ground to making the most of daylight with early starts, Billy recounts their journey.Topics Include:What inspired Billy and Alex to take on The Nose's challengeHow they got stuck in the two main crux's of the routeTheir plan if one of them couldn't climb a specific pitchHow they used innovative thinking to overcome various weather conditionsThe highs and lows of portaledge lifeMaintaining high morale under time pressureAnd much more!Tune in for this captivating episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! Hear firsthand the amazing story of determination, friendship, and triumph on The Nose.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Get ready for an eye-opening episode! Hosts Josh Hadley and Jonny Kydd sit down with renowned physiotherapist Paul ‘Huffy', a climbing injury expert with over 25 years of experience. He is known for attending the Olympics as Shauna Coxey's physio, and for having an impressive track record in diagnosing and treating the range of injuries climbers face.Discover the most misunderstood climbing injuries, common myths debunked, and get insider tips for effective rehab. Paul shares his insights of common injuries, both indoor and outdoor, drawing from his wealth of experience.Ever wondered about Shauna Coxsey's physio secrets? Paul spills the beans on lessons learned, from elite climbing to influencing the culture of "training for climbing." Get ready for practical training advice straight from a climbing injury expert.Topics include:Most misdiagnosed injuries in climbing?Unhelpful physio advice climbers should look out for? Other than finger injuries, what are the most common injuries climber's face?Lessons learned from being a physio to GB climbing star Shauna Coxey? What do climbers keep getting wrong in the 'training for climbing' culture?Training advice, from top physio, which climbers everywhere can benefit from?Ready to boost your knowledge of climbing injuries? Join us on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! Don't miss out on expert insights to enhance your climbing journey.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi, delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA. Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur, Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes a lot of mental control!). Tom also drew on questions fans have sent to us, asking about Will's experiences during his trip to the Czech Republic, where he successfully sent Nova (8C/V15) while attempting Terranova (8C+/V16). Plus delving into, his thoughts on Simon Lorenzi's beta on Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) in Finland. The podcast covers a range of topics, including:How to use replica training and optimise your climbing performanceNavigating challenges and frustrations during a projecting trip when it feels the world is against youDefining success in the face of a non-sending tripWill Bosi's goals for his upcoming trip to the USAThe importance of resting and effective skincare in climbingSimon Lorenzi's insane beta on Burden of DreamsHow a climber's strengths influence their projecting strategiesAnd much more!If you're looking for more juicy insights on Will Bosi's projecting strategies, or want to know what he is going to try next, head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Coach Tom Randall of Lattice Training joins to discuss: What to do if the project didn't go down Winter training Testing Planning training around spring goals What every climber should focus more in on their training How to optimize a 2-hour gym session - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to: Rungne: Try Magdust, performance chalk at a great price, and check out all of Magnus's other favorite gear. Enter to win a YEAR supply of Magdust and other rad prizes or discounts at Rungne.com - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 40+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron. Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Thanks so much for listening and supporting.
In today's podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects.Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins Cave, UK) showcasing his expertise in long-term projecting.Their diverse backgrounds set the stage for an interesting conversation where the coaches share their distinct tactics and rituals for the crucial "send go!" Host and coach, Josh, explores the intricacies of bouldering while figuring out how many sessions is too little or too long to be considered a climb at your limit.Other topics include:Unlocking the power of knowing your project's finishHarnessing video beta to its maximum potential for accelerated learningStrategising for non-sending sessionsManaging the mental demands of longer-term climbing projectsDiscover the crucial role of a supportive climbing partner in your successAnd much more!So if you want to know more on how to improve your projecting session, head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In today's podcast, we have one of our athletes, Mary Eden, also known as @TradPrincess joining us with Tom Randall. She has recently achieved the first female ascent of one of the hardest roof crack climbs in the world, Black Mamba (5.14b/8c) in White Rim, Utah.This route had its first ascent in 2019 by the Wideboyz, but it remained unrepeated until this year. The climbing powerhouse, who mentors many new crack climbers, wanted to take it a step further and attempt this gnarly route.They talk through Mary's approach to climbing and training, highlighting how she has never thought of herself as a ‘talented' or ‘natural' climber. They delve into the lifestyle challenges that accompany training and climbing when pushing higher grades.Key topics covered include:Mary's climbing journey and her limited knowledge of training methods in the early yearsHow she embraces the concept of learning through failure and the impact this has had on her climbingHow her approach to climbing and training differed as she progressed to 5.12a/f7aWhat training strategies did she adopt that propelled her into the 5.13a/f7c+ gradesSharing top tips she has learnt over five years of focusing on pushing her climbing performanceWant to hear more from Mary Eden and Tom Randall? Head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Lor Sabourin has been in the climbing scene for a while now! They made the first no-falls ascent of the route, ‘Cousin of Death' (5.13+/7c+) in Northern Arizona, back in 2020. Then in 2021, they did an impressive ascent of ‘East Coast Fist Bump' (5.14a/8b+).This was only the beginning though, this autumn, Lor outdid themselves by sending the infamous “Stranger Than Fiction” (5.14b/8c). This was the first redpoint since the first ascensionist Mason Earle sent the route in 2015.Lor's projecting process fascinated and continues to impress us here at Lattice, as they have a unique approach to dealing with the physical, mental and technical aspects of projecting complex routes over a long time period. Whilst Lattice has worked with many athletes over the years who've had season-long projects, it's always remarkable to see someone achieve their multi-year project!Key topics:Lor finding and sampling ‘Stranger than Fiction'Mental tools for dealing with the uncertainty of technical trad routes The type of training they did with their Lattice coach Maddy CopeUsing gratitude as a tool when long-term projectingJuggling work with the climbing lifestyleTools they used to progress every season on ‘Stranger than Fiction'How their training led to a leap in their bouldering gradeWant to learn more about how a Performance Coaching Plan can help you achieve your goals? Head over to the Lattice Training website to find out more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, the skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks, why he is still working on improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, his most fun/rewarding/miserable/traumatic trips with Tom Randall, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetHoliday Sale going on now with up to 25% off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/pete-whittakerNuggets:0:05:34 – Pete's breakfast and voice0:06:29 – Pete and Tom's current mission in Moab, and what makes that area so unique0:10:02 – Goals on trips, and working on ring locks as a weakness0:12:22 – How Pete and Tom ring lock differently0:14:57 – Pete's book on crack climbing techniques0:15:56 – Trying Mason Earl's route Stranger Than Fiction0:20:14 – Breakdown and progress on Stranger Than Fiction0:21:58 – Pete's first visit to the Profile Wall in Norway to try Recovery Drink, and working his way through the established free routes0:27:54 – The style of climbing on the Profile Wall, and the skills needed to climb hard there0:30:08 – Placing 17 pieces of gear on the 100m Crown Royale 9a0:32:35 – Breakdown of Crown Royale 9a, and running it out on the send0:38:13 – Pete's process on Crown, and projecting the top half as its own pitch0:40:42 – How Pete and Tom decide which projects to try together vs. individually0:43:19 – The most FUN trip with Tom (Century Crack trip)0:45:20 – The most MISERABLE trip with Tom (Bridge Boys)0:46:21 – The most TRAUMATIZING trip with Tom (Yosemite)0:49:09 – The most REWARDING trips with Tom (exploring the White Rim)0:50:27 – The Crucifix project0:53:26 – How Pete trained for Crown Royale 9a0:57:06 – Embracing the suck, why Pete is good at resting in stressful positions, and training stamina as a kid1:00:17 – Pete's early climbing, venturing into more dangerous routes as a teenager, and doing the first ascent of an E9 at age 17 with his mom on belay1:06:12 – Why Pete loves offwidthing, and other styles of climbing that involve lots of suffering1:10:42 – How geeky is Pete about training?1:13:10 – Adding structure, and training with Lattice for Crown Royale1:14:51 – Shoulder conditioning for Crown, and what exercises he plans to continue doing1:17:51 – Keeping tabs on the world's hardest trad routes, and Pete's thoughts on trying Tribe1:20:09 – How Pete picks objectives and goals, and riding the waves1:23:07 – Pete's recent trip to Yosemite with Mari1:25:37 – Using Darth Grader to suggest the grade of 9a for Crown Royale1:34:33 – How Pete's experience with Crown Royale compared to Recovery Drink1:37:33 – Unclimbed lines on the Profile Wall, and where the name “Crown Royale” came from1:39:26 – Check out the Patron-only EXTRA with the Wide Boyz!
Today Tom Randall and Ollie Torr take a step back from being humble and name some of the biggest names Lattice has worked with.They dive deep into the details behind Alex Honnold, Toby Roberts, and even Emily Harrington's coaching. But these are just some of the major clients Lattice has worked with, so grab a cup of tea and tune in for a juicy podcast!The main topics are:Are Pros all-rounders?Choosing prioritiesIs it better to climb or train more?Is it better to work finger strength on the wall or on a fingerboard?What type of endurance works best?With lots of examples based on the notable climbers we work with.What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Today's guest is Dan Hipkiss, the coach to 'The Stoltman Brothers', who have held multiple World's Strongest Man titles, a few world records and multiple international competition podiums. Dan also coaches others in the sports of powerlifting, CrossFit and Olympic weightlifting, giving him a varied background in performance training.Seeing that Dan also rock climbs, and understands the fundamentals of the sport, host Tom Randall invited him on to pick his brain in the hopes of learning new perspectives on training for climbing.The main topics are:Frequency and volume of strength trainingTraining weaknesses and de-prioritising strengthsInjury prevention for strength athletesUsing deload cycles as a tool for getting strongerWant to learn more about how these sports can influence your climbing? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Tom and Ryan explore how to give ourselves the best shot at sending on the day, and then Tom answers Patron questions. Topics include: Setting expectations Adjusting for uncontrollables Warmup tactics Calculating proper rest periods Post Activation Potentiation Routine Learnings from training Alex Honnold Training fingers with a force gauge - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to these wonderful sponsors: Friction Labs: Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com. Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount. - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 20+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron. Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger!
Tom Randall couldn't be more excited because in today's podcast, the Wideboyz have come together to discuss Pete Whittaker's latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale!Tom and Pete discuss all the training behind this monstrous climb. Plus, they dive in into some of Pete's assessment techniques before training, with Pete even spilling some key tips that helped him adapt his training for his project.Key topics include:How Pete self assesses before trainingHis training structure and how it has evolvedReplica TrainingWhat he has learned from climbers with different strengths (i.e Magnus)How he stays motivatedWhat are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Welcome to another exciting episode of 'This or That,' where our host, Tom Randall, is about to challenge our guest's climbing training preferences. Today's special guest is none other than Ollie Torr, the co-founder of Lattice and one of our world class coaches in the Lattice team.While we all recognize Ollie for his exceptional coaching skills, what you may not know is that he brings a wealth of experience from his years in gymnastics and coaching training. His background equips him with a unique and expert perspective when tackling these rapid-fire questions. So, find a comfortable seat because Tom and Ollie are about to dive deep into the following debates:-Kilterboard or Moonboard-10mm or 20mm for finger strength-ARC and continuity or high-intensity intervals for route climbers-Low reps or high reps for building strength-Starting young and specializing or beginning later and pursuing a broader approach...and that's just the beginning. Stay tuned for a lively discussion on these topics and more!Tune in to today's podcast, which is available on various platforms, including Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, etc., and learn from one of the best coaches out there.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Tom and Ryan explore how training should be adjusted in the 4-6 weeks before send-season, what exercises to cut as the season arrives, an often-overlooked red point tactic, and behind-the-scenes stories from when Adam Ondra was in the cellar. Plus, Patron questions! - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to these wonderful sponsors: Friction Labs: Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com. KAYA Climb: 50+ bouldering guidebooks right on your phone, whether you have signal or not! Plus GPS-pinned boulders and over 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download a free version, and get 20% the PRO version HERE - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 20+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron. Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger!
Welcome back to the Lattice Training podcast! Today, we have Ollie Torr joining our host Tom Randall, for an insight into coaching V17 climbers, preparing for the Olympics and much more
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers: How Tom started and developed his training Developing Lattice Training Tom's experiences with personal injury Common injuries and mistakes Shoulder resiliency and management Tom's go-to exercises for general resiliency and holistic approach Tom's general advice for climbing Outro Contact Info: IG: @tompaulrandall @latticetraining YT: @LatticeTraining Facebook: Lattice
In this episode, Tom Randall has a relaxed and insightful chat with Lena Müller, the creator of the Ecopoint concept. Lena introduces us to her fresh take on climbing, which has been making waves on news pages and social media over the past year.After completing the 'Prinzip Hoffnung' E9/8b+ trad route using only public transport in 2020, Lena coined the term Ecopoint to capture her sustainable climbing philosophy. Join Tom and Lena as they discuss the importance of this approach for a more sustainable climbing community and dive into the strategies she's encountered while embracing this approach style.Main topics discussed:-Defining Ecopointing-When did Ecopointing start-The limitation and future of ecopointing-How you can do your partCurious to learn more? Check out Lena's website for inspiration and information!https://ecopointclimbing.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
On this episode of the podcast, we sat down with the infamous Tom Randall of Wide Boyz fame. Tom reflected on some of the most transformative moments in his climbing career, debunked some of the myths of climbing training, and got us hyped on the AAC's new partnership and discount with Lattice Training. Whether it's how to train as a trad climber, or the difference that trainers see between UK athletes and US athletes, we covered a broad range of topics. If you're curious whether you should start training for climbing, even if your goals in climbing have nothing to do with pushing grades, then dive in!
In today's episode, Tom Randall sits down with Eric Hörst, to discuss the changes and needs of the body with age, when climbing and training. We've been listening to your feedback and understand the importance of addressing training for climbers in their 40s, 50s, and 60s. That's why we're thrilled to have Eric on the show, as he brings a wealth of experience, having trained and performed throughout various stages of life, including his current age of 59.During this episode, Tom dives deep into Eric's training journey, exploring how his approach has evolved over time. They discuss key topics such as strength and power training, the relevance of endurance training for older athletes, and Eric's effective use of high-intensity interval training. Additionally, they touch upon recovery strategies, including work-to-rest mesocycle lengths, and Eric shares a valuable lesson from his personal nutrition journey.Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, this conversation with Eric Hörst offers practical tips and insights tailored specifically for climbers in their 40s, 50s, and 60s. Tune in to the Lattice Training Podcast as Tom Randall and Eric Hörst guide you through the fascinating world of training for experienced climbers.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
In this second part of Tom Randall's conversation with Allegra Maguire, they delve into the captivating topic of the Individual Zone of Optimal Functioning (ZOF).If you're looking to take your climbing performance to the next level, this episode is a must-listen. Tom and Allegra unpack the concept of the ZOF and reveal how understanding and harnessing it can lead to incredible breakthroughs on the wall.Discover practical strategies for identifying your own ZOF, from seeking external feedback to leveraging the power of journaling. But that's not all – Tom and Allegra go beyond theory and share actionable techniques to help you actually get into your ZOF. You'll learn how to create routines, leverage music, harness the power of breathing exercises, and utilise effective self-talk to unlock your optimal mental state for peak performance.Whether you're a beginner climber seeking to enhance your mindset or an experienced athlete striving for that competitive edge, this episode is packed with valuable insights and techniques to help you tap into your Individual Zone of Optimal Functioning.Don't miss out on this game-changing conversation! Tune in to the Tom Randall Podcast and join Tom and Allegra as they guide you on a journey towards unlocking your full potential and reaching new heights in your climbing performance.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Welcome to another Lattice Training Podcast! In this episode, host Tom Randall is joined by a special guest, Allegra Maguire, an expert in the psychology of climbing.Allegra is a Mental Coach and co-founder of Climb in Flow, known for her insightful YouTube channel, Climbing Psych. With a strong academic background in psychology and currently pursuing a PhD in Decision Making at Linkoping University in Sweden, Allegra brings a unique perspective to the field of climbing. Her work involves helping both professional and non-professional climbers enhance their mental game, manage fear, and build confidence.In this first part of the two-part episode, Tom and Allegra dive deep into the topic of mindset and performance, specifically exploring the concepts of growth and fixed mindsets in climbing. The conversation also touches on the relationship between mindset and talent, providing valuable insights for climbers at all levels.As a coach with a focus on practical application, Tom is excited to learn from Allegra's expertise and share her insights with the audience. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, this episode promises to provide practical tips and strategies for optimizing your mindset and improving your climbing performance.So, tune in to this captivating conversation between Tom Randall and Allegra Maguire as they explore the fascinating intersection of mindset and climbing performance.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
We all know that endurance and power endurance training is incredibly effective on either a circuit board or on a rope inside or outside. But which is most useful? When should we prioritise one over the other? Is it even possible to say that one tool is better than the other?In this episode, host Tom Randall delves into the pros and cons of circuit boards versus roped climbing with the aim of helping you make the best training decisions for your climbing goals. Tom highlights the unique advantages of both training tools and offers valuable insights into how they can be used to complement each other for maximum benefit.Tune in to this episode to gain a better understanding of when to choose circuits and when to choose roped climbing. Whether you are a beginner or an advanced climber, Tom's insights will help you to optimise your training regimen for the best results.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Welcome to Episode 3 of the "This or That" series, where Tom Randall delves into the complex debate route climbers often face: Should you prioritize endurance or strength training and what are the benefits and drawbacks of each? In this comprehensive episode, Tom explores both of the training methods, examining how they can affect climbing performance, style, and long-term development.Key topics covered in this episode:The benefits and drawbacks of strength training for route climbersThe advantages and disadvantages of endurance training for route climbersThe impact of each training method on climbing performance, style, and recoveryFinding the right balance in your training regimen to suit your individual goals and physiologyEquip yourself with the knowledge to make well-informed decisions about your route climbing training. Don't forget to subscribe to our channel to get more This or That" series episodes to take your climbing performance to new heights!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Tom Randall checks in on Ryan's training and offers up valuable insights that will help anyone level up their training and performance. - Usually exclusive to Patrons, this Coach Chat is available to everyone. Topics include: - How to test and self-assess your training progress - Timing energy system work - Managing life stressors (allostatic load) - What we can all learn from Chris Sharma - Listener questions - This episode is sponsored by Patrons and Subscribers of The Struggle. Enjoy the full Pro Clinic, early and ad-free episodes, and other perks by joining The Struggle Pro Access community. There's a level for everyone
Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse FirestoneTom Randall's Follow-Up:Follow-Up: Tom Randall The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-6Nuggets:0:02:55 – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence"0:09:56 – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks0:11:56 – Jesse's new philosophy, and realizing that he will never try everything on his list0:13:37 – Steven's Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year0:16:31 – Jesse's Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year0:17:16 – Steven's Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year0:20:01 – Jesse's Tip #2: Keep a daily journal0:21:17 – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year0:22:14 – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season0:24:21 – My prefered journaling method, and the +/- system0:26:43 – Jesse's Google Keep beta0:28:05 – Steven's Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines0:34:36 – Jesse's Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase0:40:05 – Jesse's Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)0:43:27 – Steven's Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal0:44:34 – Steven's Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training0:45:23 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Just winging it0:45:43 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Not having a plan0:47:21 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches0:48:28 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)0:49:22 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase0:52:14 – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session0:53:55 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.0:55:24 – Jesse's Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)0:57:12 – The progression zone0:58:04 – Steven's Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall0:58:47 – Jesse's Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three0:59:22 – Jesse's two goals for 20221:00:13 – Let us know if you want a season 2!
Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou's vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom's Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam's Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom's advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom's busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom's quest to find the ultimate climbing experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time' E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he's so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It's still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra's channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam's 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam's recommendations for The Nugget's channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom's advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren't brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom's advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom's upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam's upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie's top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery0:09:55 – Ollie's work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery0:14:25 – Ollie's thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie's funny story about his first interview on Training Beta0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression0:26:06 – “What got me here won't get me there.”0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie's process of examining movement, joint, and action0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan's approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower1:21:00 – Limbic friction1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low2:08:23 – Staying on the bus2:11:39 – Ollie's gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom's cellar2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is….2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn't think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter2:43:12 – My (Steven's) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can't train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering3:09:41 – “Progression isn't always the answer.”3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie's story about his first 5.14b (8c)3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing3:31:53 – Take action on something3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team3:36:42 – Wrap up