Podcast appearances and mentions of Craig Lee

Stay up to date on key agricultural policy developments and the top ag headlines from the past week. In this episode, we also feature an interview with Geringhoff, discussing their latest equipment release and company growth. This week's ag headlines cover major policy updates, including the expansion of E15 across eight Midwestern states, the USDA allocating $1 billion to combat avian influenza and a bipartisan bill aimed at restricting foreign purchases of farmland. Additional headlines include upcoming tariffs set to take effect next week and new data on the impact of beef-on-dairy in the markets. Our featured interview this week includes Craig Lee, Director of Sales for North America at Geringhoff, and company president Bill Dickhutt. They discuss the newly released XFR-50 and Geringhoff's upcoming Minnesota location, expected to be completed in the spring of 2025. Tanner Winterhof heard from them at the recent National Farm Machinery Show. Follow us daily with agriculture content on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook and YouTube in addition to our weekly videos!

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharmaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down(00:10:32) – Knee injury(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura(00:20:07) – New challenges(00:27:32) – Chapters(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start(00:52:32) – Should or should not(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season(01:27:21) – Santa Linya(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again(01:40:17) – Paris 2028(01:46:32) – Embracing competition(01:50:00) – The next generation(01:54:12) – The media churn(01:57:22) – JB Tribout's advice(02:00:22) – “It's cool to do hard shit. ”(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids(02:12:32) – Ferrari(02:16:16) – Magic(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huberNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:25) – Many valleys(00:04:53) – Hunting(00:14:39) – Staying young(00:16:29) – Thomas' recent trip to Choktoi(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis' relationship with climbing(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday(01:01:17) – Beer break(01:02:37) – Early training(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s(01:20:55) – 9a & beer(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys(01:54:00) – Patagonia(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive(02:06:24) – Freiheit

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you'll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus(00:03:50) – Jesse's Tip #1: Think long-term(00:08:10) – Steven's Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it(00:10:51) – Jesse's Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades(00:14:17) – Steven's Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up(00:17:29) – Jesse's Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades(00:28:34) – Steven's Tip #3: Do more of what you haven't been doing(00:33:24) – Jesse's Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up(00:38:12) – Steven's Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions(00:44:12) – Creative home walls(00:45:06) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you've been doing(00:45:49) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Overtraining(00:50:32) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people's agendas(01:00:46) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through(01:09:21) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often(01:12:43) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: You're not actually plateaued, you've just built a tower(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids(01:19:48) – That's a wrap on season 2!

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:17) – Felipe's intro to climbing(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF(00:25:45) – Representing South America(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)(00:28:33) – Goal oriented(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training(00:54:29) – When to specialize(00:57:22) – Felipe's training as a kid(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

As harvest continues across the nation, farmers are already looking forward to opportunities for improvement in the coming year. In this week's episode, we bring you important conversations and updates. Along with our weekly market insights and top agriculture news, we'll cover weather trends and predictions as we head into the fall and winter months. This week's ag news includes USDA updates, the impact of Hurricane Helene on crops like cotton and Christmas trees, and more about trends in ag tractor sales including 19% decline in September. We'll also discuss ongoing talks about the Farm Bill. In other top stories, we cover how Pure Prairie Poultry abruptly cut ties with its contracted poultry growers and how one of the many checkoff organizations is utilizing Name, Image, and Likeness (NIL) deals. Plus, you'll hear from our co-host Tanner, who shares his passion for sports! We have two interviews lined up this week. First, we'll hear from the team at Redstar, a company specializing in fertilizers and seeds. They'll explain why certain crop diseases, not seen in the Midwest for over a decade, may be reappearing. They'll also offer insights on preparing your fields for next year, with a focus on nitrogen management. A special thanks to Redstar team members Tom Stanton, John Person and Coltin Schachtner for joining the Ag News Daily Podcast and sharing their expertise. In another interview, we take a closer look at Geringhoff's new product, the XFR 50. This equipment has been field-tested for several years to ensure it meets farmers' needs. Developed with global expertise, the engineering work comes from Geringhoff's team in Germany. Hear from Geringhoff's Director of Sales for North America, Craig Lee, and President of the North America division, Bill Dickhut, as they discuss the product's flexibility and the steps the team takes to ensure its suitability for farmers worldwide. Follow us daily with agriculture content on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook and YouTube in addition to our weekly videos!

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsRevival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn't come back from(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury(00:09:19) – Jesse's Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future(00:14:23) – Steven's Tip #1: Know that it's going to be ok(00:16:04) – Jesse's Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume(00:19:07) – Steven's Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up(00:27:08) – Jesse's Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever(00:35:07) – Steven's Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)(00:38:41) – Jesse's Tip #4: Protect your identity(00:43:16) – Steven's Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to(00:46:59) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn't understand your sport/identity(00:52:40) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips(00:58:53) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)(01:07:18) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury(01:09:54) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)(01:14:13) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.(01:15:42) – Wrap up

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Ocelot Grips:ocelotgrips.com/nuggetUse code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/nugget50Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beardNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:34) – The Murder Room(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago(00:10:02) – Molly's background(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s(00:14:45) – The language of movement(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes(00:34:36) – The power of climbing(00:35:49) – Getting her L5(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends(01:00:54) – Coordination(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter(01:12:10) – A tide shift(01:18:29) – Molly's current job & recent injuries(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing(01:24:49) – Finding separation(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?(01:52:14) – Splitting the field(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-4Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:19) – Two things that have improved Jesse's finger strength(00:04:12) – Using climbing to gain finger strength(00:07:53) – Overview(00:09:05) – Steven's Tip #1: Do something simple enough that you can be consistent with it, and do it for a very long time(00:11:02) – Examples of simple consistency(00:13:48) – Climbing on a board(00:18:14) – Jesse's Tip #1: You probably don't need much finger training(00:19:37) – Maintaining finger strength on a trip(00:21:50) – Steven's Tip #2: Use big edges to get strong and use small edges to apply that strength to the rock(00:31:28) – Jesse's Tip #2: Understand the adaptations from different styles of training(00:37:41) – Owning the hold(00:38:43) – Finger curls/active flexion(00:42:53) – Building forearm capacity and endurance(00:44:08) – Rate of force development(00:46:12) – Wall crawls/crimp crawls/low gear(00:48:33) – Steven's Tip #3: Own the hold(00:53:32) – RPE and 10-second hangs(00:56:32) – Jesse's Tip #3: Practice grips on the wall(01:01:28) – Steven's Tip #4: Train a variety of grip types(01:11:54) – Bonus Tip: The Ladder Program(01:14:56) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Training too heavy(01:17:20) – Genetric freaks and the 200 lb goal(01:18:25) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Not considering how you climb when you train your fingers (i.e. Your finger training should be specific to you)(01:22:26) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Doing your finger training when you're tired(01:24:38) – Watching Tyler Nelson one-arm hang a 15mm edge when tired(01:27:53) – Rate of Force test(01:29:28) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Switching protocols too often(01:30:30) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Too much “perfect” edge training(01:34:44) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Stressing out about which protocol is “the best”(01:36:30) – “It takes years”(01:38:18) – Bonus Tip: N=1(01:39:55) – Wrap up

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megosNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a's(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects(00:14:45) – Bibliographie(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to(00:21:08) – The America Tour(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change(00:45:51) – Leg pump(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption(01:07:51) – Olympics(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions(01:12:51) – The board master(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights(00:04:43) – Why I lift weights(00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting(00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit(00:08:06) – Jesse's Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy)(00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting(00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE(00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting(00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net)(00:18:20) – Steven's Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter(00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program(00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule(00:25:13) – Jesse's Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training(00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises(00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise(00:38:25) – Steven's Tip #2: It's ok to focus on the bare essentials(00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training(00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters(00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example(00:45:42) – Jesse's Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form(00:47:30) – Steven's Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base(00:49:42) – Jesse's Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training(00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training(00:58:27) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little(01:01:14) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Going ham(01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you're young(01:07:12) – You don't have to go to level ten(01:08:17) – Overall training load(01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial(01:11:04) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough(01:15:56) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy(01:18:42) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein(01:22:32) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion(01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it(01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training(01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training(01:31:46) – Wrap up

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking(00:11:28) – Limiting factors(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting(00:19:19) – Specializing(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength(00:21:18) – More on specialization(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program(00:45:56) – Yves' edge lifting protocols(00:53:35) – When to progress weight(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong(01:05:29) – Repeaters(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan(01:35:12) – More about repeaters(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season(01:48:05) – Yves' recent grip comp & climbing goals(01:55:22) – Yves' gap analysis for comps(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals(01:59:05) – Yves' job as a special effects artist(02:01:06) – Yves' YouTube channel(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:20) – Best spray walls(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle(00:10:07) – Jesse's Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)(00:13:05) – Steven's Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression(00:24:52) – Jesse's Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting(00:27:59) – Steven's Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)(00:33:17) – Jesse's Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall(00:35:52) – Steven's Tip #3: Circuits!(00:40:13) – Jesse's Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money(00:43:27) – Steven's Tip #4: Set foot moves(00:49:23) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions(00:52:08) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level(00:54:33) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions(00:55:51) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes(00:59:42) – Steven's Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds(01:02:03) – Steven's Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps

It was a busy day number two at the Farm Progress Show as learned about the new XFR50 draper head from Geringhoff! We were joined by their experts and leadership to discuss the new product launch and their legacy products as we talk with Craig Lee and Bill Dickhut from Geringhoff. We also have market analysis in Segment Three with Jacob Burks from AgMarket.net and hear about what he has heard at the show so far from farmers and ranchers in attendance. Learn more at https://www.geringhoff.com and https://www.agmarket.net.

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut VideosBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-frugeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave(00:04:05) – Overview(00:05:31) – Amy's martial arts background(00:10:21) – Confidence(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing(00:22:24) – How Amy's athletic background informs her work with climbers(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues(01:01:15) – Finding a provider(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy(01:10:23) – Pain is protective(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences(01:29:26) – Another client success story(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience(00:05:42) – Jesse's Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power(00:10:21) – Steven's Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)(00:11:39) – Example board session formats(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse's 3x3 session(00:15:32) – Jesse's Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)(00:22:44) – Steven's Tip #2: Don't be afraid to break the rules(00:25:08) – Jesse's Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard(00:29:32) – Steven's Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)(00:34:01) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2(00:44:32) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously(00:47:49) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants(00:50:39) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Too much too fast(00:53:13) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing(00:54:44) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I'm board training a lot(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength(01:00:38) – Wrap up

In this week's episode, Han is rejoined by Craig Lee. Craig is an accredited online counsellor and psychotherapist with 18 years of experience in behavioural change and mental health services. Craig uses his personal experience of an eating disorder and body dysmorphia to support clients to achieve food freedom, enhance their body image, and lead fulfilling lives using his lived experience. The normalisation of orthorexia and the impact this may be having on individuals struggling with orthorexic tendencies. The recent separation of orthorexia, orthorexia nervosa, and "healthy orthorexia". The role of a diagnosis and how this can be supportive or destructive for someone's recovery. The role of labels, how they can become someone's identity, and how this impacts them living a purposeful life. Craig and Hannah's perspective of living with ADHD and the impact this can have on eating disorder recovery.How to navigate an obsession around "healthy eating" and Craig's advice for navigating this. To learn more about Craig, please head to their IG page @craigleetherapy or head over to their website.Kindly note, that this episode delves into sensitive eating disorder topics. Remember to care for yourself while listening and seek professional help if needed. This podcast is your bridge to insightful discussions, not a substitute for clinical guidance.

Is food your fallback when life feels full of responsibilities, stress, and obligations?Our relationship with food often becomes collateral damage as we try to navigate life's challenges so ED Therapist, Craig Lee, has joined me to talk about struggles with fulfilment and meaning.  Book a call with Marcus: https://form.jotform.com/240493269367062 Craig Lee Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/craigleetherapy?igsh=MTlhNW4xNzE5c2liMg==Marcus on Instagram: https://instagram.com/mkaincoaching?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=Youtube: https://youtube.com/@strongnotstarving?si=zzmTveIdGUD0omuMStrong Not Starving Weekly Email: https://www.mkaincoaching.com/email-list-opt-in

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men's and women's combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men's and women's combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/olympic-reactionsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – How we watched the Olympics(00:08:57) – Overall reaction(00:10:58) – Power, Electric, Slab, & Coordination(00:13:59) – Men's final boulder 1(00:16:39) – Surprises from the men's semifinal(00:19:25) – Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert(00:23:11) – The unknown format for LA(00:26:10) – Olympic rules & limitations(00:27:55) – Niche Olympic sports & pride for climbing(00:30:28) – Speed recap(00:35:40) – Heartbreak(00:43:25) – Colin Duffy(00:45:58) – Jakob's point deduction in bouldering(00:47:12) – Men's final boulder 3(00:50:31) – Toby Roberts & Sorato Anraku(00:53:03) – What Toby's gold means for the GB Team(00:55:41) – Colin on men's final boulder 4(00:58:45) – Surprises from the women's semifinal(01:04:07) – The OQS series & the effects of qualifying at different times(01:07:16) – Brooke Raboutou(01:11:11) – Janja Garnbret(01:19:36) – Climbers are wonderful(01:28:24) – Women's top 3(01:29:24) – Will climbing grow after the Olympics?(01:32:39) – Which Olympians we are excited to see climb outdoors(01:41:14) – The skills of outdoor climbing(01:51:03) – Camera angles & World Cup challenges(01:53:29) – Will Allison compete again?(01:54:39) – Wrap up

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Green Chef:greenchef.com/nuggetclassUse code "nuggetclass" for 50% off your first box + 50 FREE Credits with ClassPass.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalia-grossmanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:46) – Natalia's parents(00:03:08) – Spending summers in Mexico & speaking Spanish(00:08:10) – Discovering climbing(00:11:25) – Her breakout year in 2021 & dealing with public criticism(00:16:44) – Facing pressure in 2022(00:19:58) – The hardest year(00:22:36) – Health challenges & learning to listen to her body(00:26:42) – Learning & hobbies(00:28:46) – Studying psychology(00:31:04) – Finding balance(00:37:10) – “It's not always the strongest person who wins.”(00:38:15) – What does it take to win?(00:39:51) – Setters' influence on comps(00:42:08) – Natalia's leadup to the Olympics(00:45:12) – Smile & Fight(00:50:45) – Don't be ashamed to ask for help(00:53:48) – Hard outdoor sends(00:58:49) – Projecting & outdoor goals(01:01:54) – Freezing(01:06:17) – Why Natalia doesn't like rituals(01:08:11) – Competition underwear(01:09:26) – Rapid fire questions(01:11:42) – Gymnastics culture(01:13:24) – More rapid-fire questions(01:18:22) – Her happiest moment(01:21:41) – Deep convos, training advice, & following psych(01:25:22) – Wrap up & EXTRA for Patrons

Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math(00:06:32) – Mom & dad(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring(00:20:00) – The format for Paris(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland(00:28:05) – Youth comps(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno(00:43:52) – Coordination(00:49:13) – Lead training(00:52:22) – Comp grades(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose(01:04:58) – His first open comp(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle(01:16:18) – Letting off steam(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions(01:47:45) – Wrap up

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-huntNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:50) – Emma's intro to climbing & speed(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit(00:09:28) – Beta changes(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top(00:13:10) – Speed nerds(00:16:19) – A rock climber first(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training(00:31:56) – Her coaches(00:35:06) – Speed shoes(00:44:59) – Other sports(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals(00:51:36) – Speed mental game(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides(01:00:39) – Strategy(01:05:01) – Riding waves(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed(01:42:30) – Emma's fastest time & goals(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna's upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie's Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I've struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!Flex Master Discount:Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-toolsWatch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadleyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – CARCing(00:10:38) – Unstructured training(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments(00:32:14) – Abduction(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching(00:53:36) – Josh's flexibility progress(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility(01:39:58) – Calve stretching(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers(01:52:24) – Reducing friction(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn't have to look like climbing(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch(02:04:41) – Breathing(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility(02:12:54) – Josh's climbing & BJJ(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh's climbing(02:22:07) – Josh's final advice(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting(02:27:49) – Wrap up

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjongNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:25) – Justen's climbing background(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety(00:11:30) – Some of Justen's hardest routes(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence(00:26:22) – Our three batteries(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop(01:11:44) – Structuring practice(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio's posture(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment(01:21:00) – Three questions(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique(01:35:47) – Sending things faster(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats(01:50:43) – Board climbers(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom'(02:01:13) – Justen's big goal(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova' 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova' 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecovaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:44) – Jana's upbringing(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova' 8C+/V16(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all(00:18:08) – A natural talent(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends(00:30:04) – Sharing successes(00:33:04) – ‘Nova' 8C/V15(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova'(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity(00:58:22) – Working with her coach(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength(01:08:09) – How her training has changed(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova'(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects(01:35:18) – Self-belief(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement(01:48:51) – Best decision(01:53:17) – Bug snacks(01:56:00) – Happiest moment(01:58:58) – Silver linings(02:03:11) – Proudest of(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:11:27) – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I've had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today's media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time' and ‘Arrival of the Birds', two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.Watch the Video Interview:EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:59) – Recooperation phase(00:08:18) – Powering through(00:10:24) – Course corrections(00:13:58) – Climbing as his work(00:21:45) – Enduring austerity(00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber(00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing(00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing(00:45:44) – Valuing integrity(00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable(00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences(01:04:23) – Aidan's last year and a half(01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)(01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall(01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou(01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project(01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)(02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter(02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time(02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds(02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery(02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb(02:38:06) – Proposing grades(02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?(03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating(03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps(03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA(03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude(03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams(03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering(03:32:48) – Wrap up

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber's bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Fenix!fenixlighting.comMy Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-TThe Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-TCheck out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven(00:11:07) – OQS banter(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work(00:48:52) – Nordic curls(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis(01:58:45) – The booty thrust(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level(02:11:01) – What's next for Paul(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard', watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution', unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I've wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keenan-takahashiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:47) – Kalkoentjie(00:06:22) – Buried in admin(00:09:48) – What Keenan's life looks like(00:15:25) – Taking space(00:18:08) – The origin story of ANTIGRAV(00:28:02) – Selling an emotion(00:32:47) – Making a climbing pant(00:34:12) – Creating value(00:37:56) – Exclusive brands(00:42:12) – The small drop model(00:47:48) – Committing(00:49:50) – Climbing better than ever(00:55:15) – The Finnish Line(01:00:13) – Jimmy Webb's development in Tahoe(01:02:00) – Chasing dream lines(01:03:20) – Satisfaction(01:07:57) – 10 more things(01:10:23) – Devilution(01:15:51) – Unclimbed projects in Bishop(01:18:23) – The Gold Standard(01:43:47) – Stubbornness(01:46:20) – Learning from one limit move(01:49:33) – Learning the macro from the micro(01:51:52) – What he learned from Spectre(01:53:52) – Surrounding himself with stronger climbers(01:55:12) – V15 at 50, and working weaknesses(01:58:30) – Trying hard(02:08:11) – Passion and relinquishing obsession(02:10:22) – Cultivating fun(02:14:47) – Measuring progress(02:20:52) – The Dark Side(02:23:47) – Ireland plans(02:28:38) – Wrap up

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!Become a Patronpatreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yipNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:11) – Alopecia(00:07:31) – Identity crisis(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head(00:12:55) – Taking back her power(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner(00:25:33) – Training camps(00:30:23) – Alannah's coaches(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo(00:44:06) – Training with other women(00:46:52) – Working on slab(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI(01:35:39) – Alannah's eating disorder as a teenager(01:41:53) – The turning point(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food(01:48:13) – Alannah's PSAs(01:50:15) – My PSA(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation(01:55:05) – What's next(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 219: Fitz Cahall — Uncut Video!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fitz-cahallNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:30) – A typical workday(00:06:32) – Early days of the internet(00:10:12) – Starting to climb(00:14:45) – Writing for outdoor magazines(00:19:48) – The fringe(00:22:42) – Creating the Dirtbag Diaries(00:33:40) – Storytelling(00:38:08) – Podcasting in 2007(00:50:47) – Early video podcasts(00:55:32) – Virtual reality(01:02:48) – Being pro but not fancy(01:05:45) – Choosing stories(01:13:19) – His new book(01:18:04) – A Lifeline Home(01:23:20) – States of Adventure(01:35:54) – My own plans for a book(01:42:23) – Taking authorship of your time(01:50:25) – Spending time on the right things(01:56:09) – The unglamorous parts(02:03:20) – Giving yourself space(02:12:45) – Uberism & mediocrity(02:17:24) – Results vs. success(02:20:20) – Climbing Gold & the Olympics(02:28:46) – Wrap up

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody'! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody' E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat's next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world's most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along!Check out Reveri:reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbing

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy's transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice's new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners!Check out the Lattice Training Course!Ultimate Course + Assessment BundleUse code “NUGGET20” for 20% off!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maddy-copeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:09) – Food poisoning in the van(00:09:03) – Home wall training(00:13:59) – Overview(00:15:49) – Dancing to climbing(00:20:35) – Warrington(00:27:31) – The Cham Shack(00:34:57) – Discomfort(00:36:19) – Comfort creep(00:48:28) – Pleasure pointing(00:54:08) – Being your biggest supporter(01:05:22) – The joy of missing out(01:11:40) – Not having a bucket list(01:18:12) – Quitting social media and sponsorship(01:22:20) – Half thereness(01:26:11) – British over-modesty(01:49:54) – Getting into training(01:55:30) – Maddy's role with Lattice(01:57:46) – Lattice's new training course(02:07:47) – Who should buy the course?(02:16:45) – Online vs. in-person coaching(02:25:21) – Wrap up and discount code(02:30:18) – Identifying blind spots(02:36:15) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons!

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker' 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy!squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademyCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williamsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:50) – Gaming(00:05:13) – Overview(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing(00:11:12) – His first V10(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker'(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker'(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed(00:25:31) – What makes a good session(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days(00:30:51) – Friction control(00:34:46) – Bad tactics(00:39:15) – Feeling strong(00:41:17) – No regrets(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS(00:56:33) – Nathan's one-arm hang workout(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground(01:05:43) – More finger training(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy(01:11:47) – Nathan's climbing style(01:24:22) – Static projects(01:26:01) – Feats of strength(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations(01:37:14) – Skin products(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off(01:44:34) – Not forcing it(01:47:38) – Working with a coach(01:51:22) – Life balance(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans(02:02:01) – More ROTS(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoes We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Neely's breakfast(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist's rest days(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider' 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching(00:22:28) – Self-talk(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach(00:24:35) – Mindset tools(00:28:40) – Email apnea(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on(01:15:29) – Gremlin work(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression(01:30:38) – Toil(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value(01:35:52) – Respect and envy(01:38:27) – Our homework(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams' in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane', facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul', dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams'(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon's 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden' in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane'(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden'(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A's(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul' got it's name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul'(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction', and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon's dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad's 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more!Watch the Film:SENDING | MHWsending.filmBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 212: Carlos Mason — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-masonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Carlos' introduction to climbing(00:04:49) – Getting into filmmaking(00:06:09) – Bishop(00:11:34) – His vision for the film(00:14:59) – Cars(00:21:21) – Writing the narrative(00:28:31) – Friends(00:36:55) – Choosing the cast(00:47:28) – Choosing the climbs(00:52:16) – Ethan's bat hang(00:55:25) – Dan and ‘The Process'(01:04:46) – Choosing the music(01:14:55) – Post-production(01:21:38) – Recording VO(01:24:57) – Behind-the-scenes content(01:29:05) – Where to watch the film(01:29:32) – What's next for Carlos(01:31:54) – Thanks and sponsors(01:33:57) – How lucky we are to climb

Matt, Heather and Nick are joined by actor Craig Lee Thomas to talk about his performance as the Spokesperson of Super Earth in Helldivers 2, their experiences playing the game with each other, and more! Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @getplayedpod. Music by Ben Prunty benpruntymusic.comArt by Duck Brigade duckbrigade.comCheck out our Anime watch-along podcast Get Anime'd and our complete Get Played, How Did This Get Played? and Premium DLC back catalogue only on patreon.com/getplayedJoin us on our Discord server here: https://discord.gg/getplayed Wanna leave us a voicemail? Call 616-2-PLAYED (616-275-2933) or write us an email at getplayedpod@gmail.com Advertise on Get Played via Gumball.fmSee Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:40) – Photo collages(00:03:36) – Bishop(00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb(00:07:52) – Growing up(00:12:11) – Getting into climbing(00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist(00:16:47) – Graduating during covid(00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram(00:22:24) – 69k(00:23:51) – Playing the game(00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing?(00:44:42) – The progression of climbing(00:49:11) – Davis' career(00:51:49) – Overwhelmed(00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media(01:03:04) – Doing what you love(01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back(01:09:26) – ‘Haroun' as his first V11(01:12:41) – A year of injuries(01:18:01) – Overcoming fear after his back injury(01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts(01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.”(01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury(01:41:54) – Trying highballs again(01:46:13) – Internet break(01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship(01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop(01:58:49) – How to support Davis(02:01:47) – Name suggestions(02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence' 9c, sending ‘Excalibur' 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:28) – Young Stefano(00:08:18) – Humor and fun(00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing(00:14:20) – The whole process(00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence' 9c(00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible(00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence'(00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence' and ‘Excalibur' 9b+(00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence'(00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance(00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur' and ‘Burden of Dreams' 9A(00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur' with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi(01:02:14) – The sword earring(01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur' got its name(01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble' 8c+/9a(01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history(01:14:48) – Stefano's climbing heroes(01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil' 9a+(01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength(01:22:52) – Sara's health challenges(01:29:29) – Supporting one another(01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmermanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Daddy style(00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley(00:12:23) – The recipe for success(00:14:32) – How I related to the book(00:19:03) – Graham's injury in New Zealand(00:21:54) – The Burger King story(00:24:04) – Falling for mountains(00:30:24) – The mystery of passion(00:32:07) – Mark Allen(00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?(00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents(00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places(00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan(00:57:48) – Shannon(01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose(01:08:30) – Getting engaged(01:16:13) – Loss and risk(01:25:58) – K2 and climate(01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy(01:43:15) – Voting(01:50:40) – Energy and water(01:51:39) – POW(01:52:29) – Don't stop climbing(01:54:11) – Graham's book and EXTRA teaser

Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-grupperNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:44) – Infusions for Ulcerative Colitis(00:06:40) – Jesse's nomadic lifestyle(00:08:26) – Training trips(00:18:30) – Almost quitting competitions(00:23:05) – Getting bullied for climbing as a kid(00:27:45) – Climbing as an art form(00:30:12) – Asking yourself questions(00:38:05) – Optimistic Training(00:45:05) – Pessimism is lazy(00:47:54) – Frustration(00:50:58) – Support(00:53:16) – Each of us is a body of water(00:57:20) – Was Jesse a natural at climbing?(01:00:07) – Turning around his bouldering(01:04:44) – Strategy for the Olympics(01:07:47) – Training with circuits(01:13:40) – Balance(01:21:12) – Soft robotics(01:30:48) – “Take it easy, but take it.”(01:32:17) – What Jesse wishes we thought more about(01:35:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul's top advice to not get injured, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:28) – Topics covered(00:04:01) – Paul's grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries(00:16:21) – Stress shielding(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?(01:09:18) – Playing the long game(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis(01:36:14) – Paul's top advice to not get injured(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island' 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard(00:15:22) – Sleep(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles(00:27:34) – Deloads(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs(00:42:15) – “It's not your last day”(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma' 8A+/V12(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island' 8C/V15(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island' replica(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?(01:14:14) – Training on the replica(01:22:21) – How to train on your project(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?(01:40:15) – Nalle's FA of ‘Burden of Dreams' 9A/V17(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders(01:59:08) – Imposing demands(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack' using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoniNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman' 5.14a(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA(00:13:30) – Adrian's lifestyle(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate' ground up with Sam Stroh(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam's tick lists(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon' in a day into context(00:40:44) – Will's impressive belay season(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken'(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack' 5.14b(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman' beta(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend'(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents(02:10:06) – Street credit(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend' 5.14-(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider' in a day(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60nugget" at checkout for 60% off plus 20% off your next two months!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anak-verhoevenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:14) – Living in a small motorhome with her parents on long trips(00:06:40) – Anak's 9a and harder resume, and her level of fame in Belgium(00:10:03) – How Anak makes a living(00:13:51) – The advantages of doing everything herself(00:15:48) – How her mom and dad became her coach and trainer(00:17:58) – Practicing her autograph as a kid(00:20:13) – Competing in her first international competition(00:22:34) – Struggling in early competitions, and navigating disappointment(00:25:54) – Setting the bar high(00:27:47) – Family meetings(00:31:24) – Rest days, exercises, and hair washing(00:37:04) – Leading her first route at age 4(00:41:08) – Getting injured and falling in love with climbing(00:44:19) – The variety within climbing(00:50:50) – Why Anak quit competitions(00:56:51) – Anak's strange arm injury(01:06:46) – Working on her shoulder mobility(01:10:21) – Keeping her arm injury a secret(01:14:08) – Current status of her arm(01:17:05) – Understanding what folks with chronic illness go through(01:20:59) – What does Anak miss the most about competitions?(01:25:46) – Longer trips, and the stress of competitions(01:30:43) – Winning her first World Cup in Arco(01:34:05) – The satisfaction of sending Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda(01:42:15) – Getting fresh air during competitions(01:44:59) – Anak's training shed(01:47:57) – Training on the same routes for 3 years, and motivation vs. fancy facilities(01:53:01) – Anak's strategy for onsighting comp routes(01:57:11) – Making up rules at the gym(02:01:36) – How Anak built her endurance(02:07:15) – Mental endurance(02:11:27) – 9b and trad climbing goals for 2024(02:14:43) – Why she is open about her faith(02:22:33) – How do climbers react to her faith?(02:29:46) – The pressure I felt as a kid to spread faith, and moving away from religion(02:33:09) – How Anak thinks about sharing her faith, and her lack of judgment toward other people(02:35:18) – Choosing her faith for herself(02:38:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.', and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane' 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra's risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker' V16, plans for more 9c's, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubertNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:44) – Jakob's best year ever(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.' 9c and A'lphane' 9A as projects?(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam's risky and efficient climbing style(00:36:13) – How quality of ‘B.I.G.'(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.'(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.'(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.'(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.' the best hard route in the world?(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA' 9c(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.' stand for?(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.', and revisiting the route with fresh eyes(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.'(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane'(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane'(01:18:28) – Speed training(01:20:02) – Recovery(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker' V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it(01:25:48) – Greedy(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker' when he goes back(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana's story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn't train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:03) – The donut festival(00:06:26) – Tyler's granite spray wall(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts(00:14:21) – Outline of topics(00:16:17) – Finger training topics(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination(00:49:23) – Summary of our session(00:50:21) – When to end a session(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind(01:11:25) – Tyler's guidance for me in Hueco(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?(01:20:24) – Lions don't go jogging(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos' and Adam Ondra's training volume(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?(02:07:46) – Takeaways(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients' training habits(02:14:41) – The future of finger training(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways(02:37:05) – Wrap up

James Pearson is one of the world's best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage', why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comVisit the website or download the KAYA app!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Getting settled(00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James(00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story(00:08:10) – Internet backlash(00:10:05) – Coming full circle(00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage'(00:17:10) – The full story(00:28:47) – Compassion for himself(00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing(00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey(00:41:18) – Learning how to train(00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months(00:52:32) – Fun and performance(00:53:23) – E grades(00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again(00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody'(01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure(01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro(01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody'(01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route(01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film(01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond(01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage'(01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD(01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later(01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt's thoughts about Walk of Life(01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage'(02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage'(02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage'?(02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades(02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage' an E grade?(02:38:44) – Becoming a dad(02:47:47) – What kids taught him(02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations(02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids(03:03:36) – James' advice for his younger self(03:11:15) – Climbing matters(03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro's mom(03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage', and Caro's journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy