Podcast appearances and mentions of michael roy

SummaryFor this special edition of the podcast Duncan invited Michael Roy to discuss the latest VMware Workstation and VMware Fusion announcements. VMware Workstation and Fusion are desktop hypervisor products that allow users to run virtual machines on their PC or Mac. Starting today, Workstation and Fusion commercial licenses will only be available through annual subscriptions. The price for both products is now $199 per year. The free versions of Fusion Player and Workstation Player are being discontinued, but the Pro versions will be available for free for personal use. Support for personal use products will be community-based, while commercial users will have support included in their subscription. The focus of future innovation will be on the integration between vSphere and Workstation/Fusion, providing a local virtual sandbox for learning, development, and testing.TakeawaysVMware Workstation and Fusion are desktop hypervisor products for running virtual machines on PC and Mac.Commercial use of Workstation and Fusion is shifting from perpetual licenses to annual subscriptions.The free versions of Fusion Player and Workstation Player are being discontinued, but the Pro versions will be available for free for personal use.Support for personal use products will be community-based, while commercial users will have support included in their subscription.Future innovation will focus on integrating vSphere with Workstation and Fusion to provide a local virtual sandbox for learning, development, and testing.LinksAnnouncement BlogThe Register articleDisclaimer: The thoughts and opinions shared in this podcast are our own/guest(s), and not necessarily those of Broadcom or VMware by Broadcom.

In the latest episode of the Virtually Speaking Podcast, Pete and John dive deep into the world of desktop hypervisors with special guest Michael Roy. The discussion takes us on a journey through the history of desktop hypervisors, exploring their various use cases and shedding light on recent changes in licensing following Broadcom's acquisition of VMware. Desktop hypervisors, notably VMware Fusion and Workstation, have revolutionized the way we approach virtualization on personal computers. These powerful tools enable users to run multiple operating systems simultaneously on a single machine, opening up a world of possibilities for developers, IT professionals, and enthusiasts alike. During this episode Michael Roy delves into the myriad use cases for desktop hypervisors, highlighting their importance in software development, testing, and education. We explore how these tools have become indispensable for developers seeking to test their applications across different environments, as well as for IT professionals managing complex systems.  

 Tonight our very special guest is Graham Black, a native of Montreal who has lived in Moncton for the past 24 years. Graduated from Concordia University, with a degree in Sports Medicine as a Certified Athletic Therapist and Strength and Conditioning Specialist with over 25 years of experience in both fields. Graham is also the athletic Therapist for our Moncton Wildcats and is currently Co-owner of Sportmed Max in Dieppe. A former guest that we enjoy having on, Michael Roy, suggested making an appointment to see Graham and I am very glad I did. We discuss the difference between a Physiotherapist and an Athletic Therapist and some of the common injuries that Graham sees. Graham surprises us with something he is seeing more often, I didn't have this on my radar at all but makes sense when you think about things today. When Graham isn't seeing people at his clinic he is hard at work with the Moncton Wildcats, Go cats go! Winning the Memorial Cup is always the goal and maybe this year that will happen. We had an amazing discussion and Graham is so good at telling stories, especially about when he needed a suit at the last minute to be hired for the Wildcats job.   I enjoyed my time at Sportmed Max Physiotherapy and I wanted to get the phone number out there for anyone who could use any of the services that they provide, links below. We hope everyone who tunes in has a wonderful day and stays safe and injury-free.Sportmed Max phone number:506-388-8855Sportmed Max website, book online:https://sportmedmaxhealth.janeapp.com/Motivate to Move email, let us know who should be on our show:motivatetomove.podcast@gmail.comMotivate to Move Facebook page:https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100041607699495As always, please give the gift of life and donate blood today.

Birdcap, who was born Michael Roy, has an exhibit on display at Crosstown Arts through the end of April, with paintings and mosaics inspired by his interpretation of Homer's Iliad.

Michael Roy of St-Quentin on his death-defying crash on a rural logging road.

Join Eric, Corey as they provide updates on vExpert 2024, and then interview Michael Roy as he talks about the new release of Fusion and Workstation. As always they will discuss the latest with Apple's M series laptop and Windows on ARM.

Join us this Saturday for a trip down memory lane with three timeless radio shows that will transport you back to the golden era of radio entertainment. The Abbott and Costello Show - "Sam Shovel - Case of the Curbstone Murder" (Originally Broadcasted on December 2nd, 1948): In this uproarious episode of "The Abbott and Costello Show," Bud and Lou find themselves embroiled in a comically convoluted murder mystery. When they stumble upon a murder scene, they attempt to solve the crime, but their bumbling antics and witty wordplay add more confusion than clarity. Get ready for laughs galore as Abbott and Costello deliver their trademark humor in this classic radio gem. The cast includes Bud Abbott as Bud Abbott, Lou Costello as Lou Costello, Sid Fields as Mr. Bacciagalupe, and Michael Roy as Mel Blanc. Our Miss Brooks - "Old Clothes for Party" (Originally Broadcasted on January 2nd, 1949): Join the lovable and ever-hopeful Miss Brooks, an English teacher at Madison High School, as she navigates the challenges of life, love, and teaching. In this charming episode, Miss Brooks tries to find a creative solution to her wardrobe woes when she's invited to a party thrown by her principal. With her characteristic wit and humor, she takes you on a delightful journey through the ups and downs of her comical adventures. The cast features Eve Arden as Connie Brooks, Gale Gordon as Osgood Conklin, Jeff Chandler as Mr. Boynton, and Richard Crenna as Walter Denton. The Railroad Hour - "Up in Central Park" (Originally Broadcasted on March 9th, 1953): Travel back to the enchanting world of musical theater with "The Railroad Hour." In this episode, "Up in Central Park," you'll be swept away by the romantic and melodic tale set in the heart of New York City's Central Park. Join the talented cast as they bring this captivating story to life through music and song, creating a magical experience that will leave you humming along. The cast includes Gordon MacRae as Steve Allen, Lucille Norman as Rose Smith, Gale Sherwood as Mrs. Cromwell, and Frank Nelson as Mayor George B. McClellan. Don't miss out on this Saturday's "Saturday Matinee" as we revisit these unforgettable episodes of classic radio entertainment. Tune in and let the nostalgia wash over you as we transport you to a bygone era of laughter, romance, and musical enchantment.

Lily Kral is the owner of Boardworks in Bend, Oregon. We talked about her childhood and her mother's struggle with addiction, being hospitalized for an eating disorder, exotic dancing her way through college, finding an identity as a strong climber, why she decided to build a board climbing gym, biggest challenges, burning the candle at both ends, being a work in progress, training for 5.14 at Smith Rock, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lily-kralNuggets:0:04:13 – Lily sets the scene0:06:46 – Minimalist vs. mooch0:08:50 – Lily's childhood, her mom's struggle with addiction, and seeking control0:14:48 – Hussling vegetable at 10 years old0:16:55 – Feeling unpopular in high school, wanting external validation, and being hospitalized for an eating disorder0:21:17 – Exotic dancing in college0:26:20 – The stigma around exotic dancing, and more about Lily's experience in that world0:33:46 – Type 1 vs type 2 thinking0:36:15 – Coming out of retirement for a weekend0:38:08 – Her time as a full-time route setter, burning the candle at both ends, and existing in fight or flight0:40:53 – Moving to LA to become a head route setter0:43:44 – Issues with substances, and how Lily was able to stay sober as a dancer0:46:25 – Building Boardworks, and where the idea came from0:52:16 – Why she chose Bend for her first location0:57:14 – The Boardworks model, and what makes it special and unique1:06:14 – The biggest challenges of opening and running a gym1:11:02 – Delegation, and letting go of control1:15:34 – More unforeseen challenges, and annoying questions from people who assume your work is easy1:20:22 – Email1:25:26 – Portaling1:26:55 – The discomfort of feeling flaky, and practicing radical honesty1:30:23 – Wanting the invite, keeping our options open, and how texting has made us flaky1:32:08 – What Lily wishes she had known about marketing, and why construction is always behind schedule1:35:56 – Undervaluing design and aesthetics1:38:13 – Tying her identity to how hard she's climbing1:41:32 – Being a work in progress with disordered eating, and obsessive and compulsive behaviors in climbers1:50:47 – Unpacking why we want to climb 5.141:56:12 – My thoughts on trying Badman again at Smith Rock, and climbing hard and being happy at the same time1:59:40 – Lily's thoughts on board training for Smith Rock2:01:53 – Doing weighted pullups on a hangboard, and training endurance for To Bolt or Not To Be (first 5.14a in America)2:06:26 – Working on getting validation from herself, and bringing more energy to other parts of her life2:08:46 – Being in the present moment2:10:34 – Having more grace for others and for ourselves2:12:31 – Follow @boardworks_climbing on Instagram

Joey Jannsen and Rich Breuner are the founders of Ocelot Grips. We talked about their “why” for starting a climbing hold company, why the small details matter, how to make dual tex, why you can't buy their holds online, building relationships with your customers, being fans of sports, the future of indoor climbing, the entrepreneurial spirit, producing underground hip-hop concerts, cage fighting, and much more!Check out Ocelot Grips! ocelotgrips.com*Not a paid endorsement, I just think they're cool!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joey-and-richNuggets:0:04:20 – Soundcheck and bevies0:05:30 – Rich talks about producing underground hip-hop shows during the summers in college0:09:08 – Joey talks about cage fighting0:11:53 – My background in manufacturing climbing holds, and our conversation six years ago about their idea for Ocelot0:14:05 – Why they decided to outsource their production0:15:37 – Joey's background in route setting and shaping0:18:52 – Joey's “why” for starting Ocelot Grips0:22:06 – Rich's “why” for starting Ocelot Grips, and his background in business operations and management0:24:53 – Expressing your identity through business0:26:15 – The Hedgehog concept0:28:12 – Why they chose the name Ocelot0:29:09 – How The Nugget got its name0:33:08 – What sets Ocelot apart from other brands, and the Shade Theory series0:38:56 – Having a flavor0:40:55 – Wanting to be involved in the setting community0:44:47 – Why you can't buy Ocelot holds online0:48:50 – Getting feedback0:51:53 – Attention to detail0:56:26 – How you do something is how you do everything0:56:58 – Ocelot's manufacturing partner Peak Performance Polymers1:00:23 – Joey's dual tex process, and how climbing holds are made1:05:29 – The logo1:07:05 – The business planning phase, processing orders, and learning as you go1:09:33 – Biggest challenges, and building Ocelot as a side hustle1:11:46 – Bluey1:12:40 – How far they've come, and what it will take for Ocelot to be their full-time jobs1:15:48 – Making career choices to maximize time1:18:40 – Where to climb on Ocelot holds, and gratitude1:21:38 – Joey describes the four current families of Ocelot holds1:25:38 – Wanting to see their holds in competitions1:29:54 – Being sports fans, and being excited about where climbing is heading1:38:45 – Novel moves in competitions1:41:15 – Putting on more than 50 competitions1:44:11 – Joey shares a few nuggets for route setters (relevant for creative people)1:54:01 – Rich shares a few nuggets about business2:01:48 – Where to find Ocelot, and wrap up

Stefanie Myr is the head route setter, manager, and team coach at Climb Tacoma in WA. We met up in Leavenworth and talked about our similar upbringings in Christianity, why we both moved away from religion, finding “church” in the climbing community, confidence and self-belief, unique challenges as a short climber, being less certain and more curious, Stef's polyamorous relationship with her husband and partner, compersion, honest communication, doing what you can to make the world a little better, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefanie-myrNuggets:0:04:05 – Miniature carpentry, and a gift for me0:11:49 – Stef role at Climb Tacoma, and the gym as a core part of her community1:17:19 – How she first got a job at Climb Tacoma, and having a diverse group of people on the team0:20:16 – Stef's unique financial situation, and the sustainability of working at a climbing gym0:22:38 – Moving away from her Christian upbringing, and finding “church” at the climbing gym0:25:09 – Our parallels with church music and moving away from organized religion0:30:31 – Bullet point lists, and how the gym functions like a “church”0:32:07 – Meeting people who changed the way we thought about organized religion0:35:16 – Stef's upbringing and programming, and not realizing she was bisexual until college0:38:39 – Stef's husband Julien0:40:34 – Stef's confidence, choosing Giant Man as an objective, and gaining something from every climb0:46:17 – Frustration with height and grades, and needing to be V12 strong to climb V100:48:02 – My conversation with Nic Rummel about grades, and an announcement about the Patron show being on Spotify0:51:19 – Sending Pimpsqueak V8/9 in Leavenworth, ABR (always be rolling), and why recording send videos feels important0:56:02 – The power of seeing someone like you climb hard things1:00:42 – More about confidence, embracing powerful moves, learning from coaching little kids, and unlocking pieces of the puzzle1:08:18 – The moments that show you that you've gotten better at climbing, and Stef's mountain1:10:23 – Stef's dream boulder in Goldbar WA, and other goals in Leavenworth1:12:01 – How Stef got on The Nugget1:21:52 – Self-belief, wanting to be good, and the power of affirmation1:26:17 – Our brain's reaction to negative comments, and how Stef deals with trolls1:38:02 – The lawyer in my brain, and making people think differently by asking better questions1:39:51 – Less certain more curious1:42:47 – Stef's polyamorous relationship, and why she wanted to talk about it1:50:50 – Normalizing sex, and redefining cheating in an open relationship1:56:18 – Equating sex and intimacy to love, how cool her husband is, and the story of how she came to be with her partner2:03:22 – Jealousy, and honest communication2:05:32 – Why Stef wanted to talk about her open relationship, and why people who are poly are not free-for-alls2:09:53 – Bringing all of who you are to yourself as a climber2:11:53 – Compersion2:15:11 – The depth of her relationship with her husband before they opened their relationship, and the distinction between security and trust2:17:53 – Marriage, and Stef's future with her partner2:24:47 – Double the love and laundry, and Stef's life in a go bag2:26:50 – Check-ins, RADAR, smoking weed, and “ask don't assume”2:32:23 – Double-committing, and learning to communicate her plans2:39:18 – What Stef wishes people spent more time thinking about2:41:10 – Make the world a little better2:42:20 – My episode with Ethan Pringle about his dad, and the importance of airing out the messiness2:47:35 – Stef's sponsors2:51:08 – Pursuing the child-free life, and final thoughts

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan's back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan's most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan's trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn's Question: Ethan's back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn's Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv's Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson's repeat of Black Beard's Tears, and Ethan's FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv's Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv's Question: Chris Linder's route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis' Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin's Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin's Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan's thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin's Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin's Question: Ethan's thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody's Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel's Question: Ethan's thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan's Question: Which climber's superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob's Question: Ethan's thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won't make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren's Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob's Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars' Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor's Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper's Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke's Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytisNuggets:0:05:26 – Exhales and accents0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining0:25:36 – ‘The End' 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool' 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty0:41:01 – Mattias' 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline' 7C+1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow' on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber1:57:46 – Wobblers2:03:34 – Ethan's punt on ‘Rodan' 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants2:11:21 – V14 goals2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Michael Roy lives in the Halls Creek neighbourhood.

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you're given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you've become0:23:29 – I'm on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic's job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic's longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic's crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic's crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic's key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally's book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic's go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic's top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic's thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan's feelings1:42:41 – Nic's secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic's home wall, and why he doesn't like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn't recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul's land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he's changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic's brother, his siblings' climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic's send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellisNuggets:0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words0:06:39 – Jenn's gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn's Olympic aspirations in gymnastics0:19:26 – Setting the scene0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn's initial goals for her trip to Rocklands0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways0:48:00 – The climbers we've learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road1:08:28 – Jenn's lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle1:36:46 – Jenn's long-ass climbing warmup1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn's warmup1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate1:43:45 – Improving year on year1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn's role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents1:59:34 – Joe's Valley doughnuts2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes2:02:17 – Jenn's connection to Joe's Valley, and how she became a software engineer2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs2:06:31 – Hype music2:08:27 – Best decision she's ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about2:14:25 – Building out her van2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCarlos's Previous Episode:EP 58: Carlos TkaczShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-and-stephNuggets:0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year0:21:23 – Steph's experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands' style, Carlos' first 8B ‘Monkey Business', and learning to try harder0:33:10 – Steph's lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele0:37:21 – Carlos' experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback0:39:50 – Steph's send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness' 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline' 7C+0:43:02 – Carlos' tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar' 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void' 8B0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar', and drawing inspiration from “the kids”0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks1:45:47 – Teaching1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we've impacted nature2:09:26 – Steph's thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family2:36:16 – Carlos' new book list2:40:31 – Speculative fiction2:42:09 – Carlos' latest book projects, and Steph's first novel2:45:59 – Carlos' horror film2:48:19 – Steph's new book project, and where to find her first book2:49:54 – Publishing a book2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky' as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie2:58:24 – Enjoying the process2:59:40 – What's next?

It's another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-bennNuggets:0:04:26 – Izzo's legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors0:14:47 – Charlie's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:19:06 – Adam's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:26:21 – The boys' skin0:29:22 – Noah's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:34:01 – Ben's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:37:20 – Charlie's coach role on the trip0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home0:40:46 – Noah's first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn's worn-out Nikes0:42:56 – Getting hooked0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte0:58:41 – Brother dynamics1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie's big win on Mooiste Meisei1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy's send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin' Large and The Finnish Line1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn's World Cup aspirations1:24:24 – Noah's finger strength1:26:16 – Board gods1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades1:37:38 – Noah's experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?1:42:43 – Adam's weaknesses1:43:26 – Noah's weaknesses1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses1:49:37 – Benn's weaknesses1:52:37 – Adam's proudest FAs1:54:14 – Noah's proudest FAs1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam1:57:34 – Benn's proudest FAs1:59:23 – Charlie's proudest FAs2:01:36 – Ethan's FA of Wet Dream when he was 172:06:29 – Ethan's proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop2:08:13 – Ethan's big wall FA in Greenland in 20122:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations2:19:24 – Three more goals each2:24:07 – Airstar2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands2:32:16 – These boys are the future

It's a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it's bad.”0:18:15 – Troy's top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin's longest project0:32:43 – Austin's efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce's trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce's job1:09:07 – Troy's job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin's tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan's goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan's top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I'm bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan's most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin's send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses

Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience filming the show, the stereotypical trans narrative in the media, why he chooses to be visible, his ungendered childhood, gender roles in sports, why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, dealing with trolls, owning your accomplishments, building the Queer Climber's Network, Rocklands highlights, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cat-runnerNuggets:0:04:44 – Cat's tea situation0:07:53 – Ethan's coffee addiction, and why he doesn't drink it before doing something scary0:11:20 – The Queer Climbers' Network0:16:15 – Life after winning The Climb0:22:23 – Finding community through climbing, and helping others find that too0:25:37 – Cat's experience filming and watching the show0:28:54 – Being trans as part of Cat's identity, and how that came across in the show0:30:38 – More behind the scenes, and what the climbing experience was like on the show0:32:15 – Meeting Jason Mamoa, and meme accounts0:34:14 – The reaction to the show, and getting messages from trans kids and their parents0:36:35 – The stereotypical trans narrative in the media, and pushing people into the role of spokesperson0:39:22 – Choosing to be visible, being proud of being trans, and seeing a future0:42:36 – Being who he needed when he was younger, and trying to change one person's world0:44:14 – What Cat would have benefitted from as a kid, experiencing severe depression, and knowing he's a part of the future0:46:36 – Reading The Alchemist, and having intimate connections with individual people0:51:43 – Cat's childhood, transitioning within the binary, and how his gender identity has evolved0:58:14 – Connecting with he/him pronouns1:00:36 – Why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, trolls, and the reaction to my video clip with Alayna Joy about climbing as a queer space1:07:30 – Why Cat is particular about who he climbs with1:10:28 – The trolliest of troll questions1:11:16 – People's insecurities, and “we're all performing”1:15:03 – Knowing when to give your energy to people, and leading with respect1:19:36 – “Trans people are humans”, and the stat that 80% of Americans have never met a person they know to be trans1:22:00 – An issue of isolation and ignorance1:25:16 – Hopeful conversations, anti-trans legislation, and false information about gender-affirming care1:27:56 – Cat's parents1:31:50 – Gender roles and sports, and the gender gap in climbing1:38:25 – Height in climbing, the subjectivity of grades, and why outdoor rock climbing is so cool1:43:49 – Rapid Fire: Best decision1:44:19 – Rapid Fire: Most proud of1:49:09 – Rapid Fire: What frustrates you2:01:00 – Taking responsibility2:03:28 – “Take! Falling!”2:05:02 – Rapid Fire: Favorite rock type2:07:46 – Rapid Fire: Ultimate dream climb2:15:36 – Rapid Fire: Favorite send reward2:17:04 – Rapid Fire: Go-to climbing shoes2:23:00 – Rapid Fire: Desert Island DVD2:25:31 – Rapid Fire: Favorite album for a long drive2:28:49 – The one thing Cat wants people to know about trans stuff2:31:29 – Taking representation seriously, and how sharing human stories cracks people open2:38:17 – Doing your best, and sharing information with your circle2:44:30 – Cat's ankle injury, and his tick list from Rocklands

Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad's life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasEthan's Other Episodes:EP 21: Ethan Pringle (Jun 2020)Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle (Oct 2020)EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) (Nov 2020)A Call from Ethan (Jul 2021)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle-returnsNuggets:0:03:49 – Princess Pringle0:06:13 – Rocklands Trip update0:11:24 – Feeling fit for bouldering after sport climbing0:14:14 – Ethan's haphazard approach, and following the psych0:20:04 – Monkey Wedding (8C/V15)0:21:43 – Being surprised at the tactics of some really strong climbers0:24:03 – Rapid firing dynamic moves0:26:09 – The style of climbing in Rocklands0:32:37 – Bonus cruxes and nemesis rigs (Black Mango Chutney and Dangle)0:40:20 – Munchy holds0:41:12 – Micromanaging holds0:44:56 – Pause0:45:57 – Ethan-ism #1: Rolling out0:48:33 – Ethan-ism #2: Drinking lots of water0:51:03 – The lacrosse ball, and lubricated tendons0:54:00 – The injurious style of Rocklands0:55:54 – Ethan-ism #3: “Take your time.”1:03:12 – Perfectionism and being detail oriented, and accessing beast mode1:07:12 – Wanting moves to feel good, and committing when they're not1:08:39 – More about the style in Rocklands, and funky moves1:10:02 – Adjusting on holds, and Adam Ondra on Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura1:15:18 – His dad's stroke1:20:12 – Ethan's sleeping injury1:26:08 – His dad's quality of life in the final years of his life1:33:10 – Honoring his dad, which parts of Ethan feel most like him, and how his dad didn't how to process and talk about feelings1:39:22 – How Ethan developed his emotional intelligence, and giving space to other people's thoughts and feelings1:44:21 – A shared life philosophy1:47:58 – The loniless of thinking your inner messiness isn't ok1:49:11 – What made Ethan feel the best when his dad passed away1:53:46 – His dad's passing on November 6th, 20222:03:19 – Living2:06:22 – Thinking about the future2:10:10 – Goals and evolution2:12:39 – Inspiration, the unpleasant nature of hard rock climbing, and Seb on Bibliographie2:16:59 – Goals for the rest of the Rocklands trip2:19:07 – Plans to do trip updates, and my first two weeks in Rocklands2:22:57 – Indoor camping vibes, and plans for the podcast

Tiba Vroom is a Dutch professional climber and cofounder of Wildflower Climbing Gym. We talked about the pressure that comes with early success, her first trip to Magic Wood and sending Riverbed 8B, confronting fear of failure, separating self-worth from performance, being the 8, starting a non-profit gym in the Netherlands, taking responsibility for your life, dream climbs in Fontainebleau, and more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tiba-vroomNuggets:0:02:28 – Tiba's first tattoo, and her first season in Magic Wood0:05:47 – Climbing as a mirror, and learning to confront the deeper parts of herself0:07:30 – Projecting Riverbed 8B, and confronting fear of failure0:12:59 – Tiba's introduction to climbing, performance pressure, and expecting to be the best0:17:08 – We only hear the success stories0:19:38 – Working through fear of failure, mental training, and separating self-worth from performance0:24:34 – Consciousness, positivity, personal development, and power0:25:48 – The 6, the 8, and the 100:28:30 – Why it doesn't make sense for most of us to compare ourselves to the best climbers in the world, and Tiba's experience competing in her first World Cup0:31:16 – Tiba's current feelings about competitions0:32:48 – How to prepare for an outdoor bouldering trip in the gym0:40:45 – Planning trips around the weather, and drying holds on Octopussy with Tiba0:42:19 – Stretching for 2+ months to be able to try a heal hook on her project0:49:40 – The gym climbing culture in the Netherlands, and starting Wildflower Climbing came to be0:53:10 – Creating a space for high-performance climbing that is welcoming to a wide diversity of people0:56:31 – Having a non-profit gym1:03:32 – Question from Lizzie: What is it like owning a gym in the Netherlands where gym ownership is fairly male-dominated?1:05:15 – Tiba's favorite things to teach1:08:25 – A recent breakthrough1:09:22 – What she wishes she had known before building the gym1:10:49 – What excites Tiba about the climbing scene right now1:12:24 – How sports highlight social issues1:14:06 – Women who have inspired Tiba1:16:16 – Taking responsibility for your life, and the ultimate climbing goal1:19:56 – What Tiba is working on in her climbing, and working on being the 81:21:28 – Summer training and projects1:22:18 – “The world can use more conscious people.”1:28:04 – My birthday, and the Women's Bouldering Festival in Font1:30:49 – How to connect with Tiba, and her new podcast

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip,  fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make. Listen to Eric's original two-part episode:EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returnsNuggets:0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself0:50:24 – Bad days happen0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else's training plan1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap1:51:02 – Wrap up

Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wrightNuggets:0:03:56 – Ady's breakfast, and serendipitous timing0:05:56 – Ady's first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn't get to have1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music1:10:57 – Mom1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting1:28:17 – Ady's goal to make routsetting more accessible1:31:20 – Ady's climbing goals, and her style1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery1:52:06 – “It's really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year2:06:38 – Loving most of New York2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people2:17:07 – Skateboarding2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb2:24:47 – Practice makes better2:29:38 – Believe and validate2:32:58 – The clubhouse

Bernd Zangerl a bouldering legend from Austria. We talked about his early climbing and making the 2nd ascent of Dreamtime, some of his proudest FAs, how he recovered from a career-ending injury in 2016, his mindset for highballs, meditation and the power of the mind, believing in love, our impact as climbers, sustainability, and discovering world-class bouldering in the Himalayas.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bernd-zangerlNuggets:0:04:02 – Where we each are in the world, and Bernd's travels to the US0:05:15 – Magic Wood, and the impact climbers have on the environment0:08:02 – How to pronounce Bernd's name0:08:53 – Bernd's background in climbing, a near miss in the mountains, and falling in love with bouldering0:13:21 – The impossibility and culture of bouldering0:15:00 – “Bouldering is the kindergarten, but also the pinnacle of climbing.”0:16:50 – Dreamtime (8C), and learning about hard boulders by reading magazines0:21:25 – Reducing boulders to each single move, and holding positions for training0:24:41 – The bouldering culture in the early 2000s0:27:29 – Finding the most pure motivation in finding and developing new boulders0:29:22 – Spending eight years and 1000+ tries to send First Try (8B+)0:34:02 – What he learned from First Try0:38:56 – Nalle on Burden of Dreams, and the randomness of bouldering0:39:43 – Sending La Proue (8B) in Cresciano, and lightness of the heart0:41:20 – Openness of the heart, Buddhism, and believing in love and the good things of life0:42:57 – Bernd's childhood, and why traveling is important to him0:44:29 – Traveling with Fred Nicole to Hueco Tanks and Rocklands0:48:00 – Feeling and knowing0:49:41 – Developing boulders in the Himalayas, and finding Rakchham0:57:17 – Why Bernd decided to publish a film about Rakchham, and what it's like to travel there1:04:06 – Sustainability1:08:39 – How internet changed traveling1:10:34 – Disconnecting1:11:52 – Shangri-La1:13:29 – Working on a guidebook for Rakchham, when to go, and plans to go back1:16:04 – Getting the locals interested in climbing1:20:41 – Bernd's projects in Rakchham, and the potential and rock types1:25:06 – Doing the FA of Shantaram in Norway1:34:05 – Patron question from Simon, and Bernd's serious injury in 20161:39:41 – The healing power of the mind1:42:31 – Into the Sun, and Bernd's headspace for highballs1:50:39 – 29 Dots (14m/45' highball)1:58:45 – More about his recovery from his injury, and connecting of the East and the West2:03:53 – Bernd's advice, and brushing2:07:47 – Bernd's diet and lifestyle2:10:39 – Meditation2:14:59 – Bernd's unique approach to warming up and finger training2:23:50 – Shake, shake the body2:25:31 – Being pulled into the present

Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!Apply for a job at Easy Expense!Click Here to ApplyLearn more: easy-expense.comCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinsonNuggets:0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis' success on short outdoor trips0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward0:13:55 – London0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson0:20:52 – Beginners try hard0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?0:34:16 – Louis' first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack's Broken Heart 8A+1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language2:02:36 – Growth mindset2:04:34 – Wrap up

Brittany Leavitt is a climber, backpacker, educator, and the co-founder and CEO of Brown Girls Climb (BGC). We talked about Brittany's climbing origin story, her unique family upbringing, unmasking and educating about race, teaching kids at the Smithsonian, the mission of BGC, creating more accessible spaces, lessons from her first road trip, using TikTok to stay informed, climbing goals, inspiration, and much more.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brittany-leavittNuggets:0:05:20 – Working from home, and having a home office0:07:38 – Why hasn't Brittany taken the leap to traveling and climbing full-time while working remotely0:10:20 – Being within community, and Brittany's dream of part-time vanlife0:15:15 – Brittany's climbing origin story0:20:24 – Outdoor Afro0:21:04 – Brittany's unique family dynamic, and having accessibility to the outdoors0:24:06 – Unmasking, adoption as a trauma experience, and educating her family0:31:00 – Protecting your own energy, giving space, and knowing when it's worth it to argue with someone0:34:25 – Family holiday recitals, and Brittany's guitars0:37:45 – The crossover of art and climbing, and singing around the campfire0:40:12 – Wanting to be an educator, and teaching at the Smithsonian0:46:33 – Musical theater with the kids0:50:01 – Learning patience and empathy from working with kids0:52:05 – Teaching life lessons through climbing, and working with community kids0:54:15 – How to decide what to say yes to, and passing ideas on to someone else0:58:25 – How Brown Girls Climb got started, and what it has become1:06:26 – The mission of Brown Girls Climb1:07:21 – What it feels like to have a space with people who share your experience1:15:09 – Patron question from Adam: How can we make climbing events (like the Rendezspew and International Climbers Festival) more accessible to diverse communities?1:24:11 – Brittany's road trip to Bishop and Red Rocks in 2019, and writing a piece for Patagonia1:30:27 – What Brittany wishes she had known before the trip, planning which gas stations to stop at, and safety considerations1:35:11 – Favorite non-climbing memories from the trip, visiting famous movie locations, and first-time van living1:41:55 – Doing her first highball boulder, and favorite climbing memories from her trip1:44:37 – Brittany's advice for folks who want to go on their first climbing road trip1:50:01 – Brittany's climbing goals in Rumney and The Gunks1:52:32 – Mountain climbing and adventure goals1:54:24 – Who inspires Brittany1:57:28 – What Brittany wishes people understood more and spent more time thinking about1:59:18 – Getting her news from TikTok2:05:17 – Wrap up and what's next for Brittany

Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He's put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000' big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houldingNuggets:0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people0:13:50 – Leo's beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads0:16:01 – Leo's “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again0:27:29 – Leo's Instagram cover photo0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid0:33:39 – Leo's first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid0:38:24 – Being born at the right time0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.”0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wind River Range with Llamas and the kids1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.”1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo's thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet?1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter1:52:03 – Leo's accident on Cerro Torre1:56:41 – Leo's expeditions to Antarctica2:02:11 – Kite skiing2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.”2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima2:20:31 – More about Leo's book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world2:24:41 – Wrap up

Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. We've got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-and-caseyNuggets:0:06:18 – Karly's time in El Salto, Mexico0:09:39 – Casey joins us from a legit recording studio, his engineering studies, and coaching vs. engineering0:16:06 – An update from Karly on Project Direct, and how she got connected to Casey0:19:19 – Decision fatigue, and wearing lots of hats0:20:42 – Casey's climbing and coaching background0:25:51 – Mikey Schaefer calls out Casey, and the connection between dating and projecting routes0:30:03 – What was the goal of this multi-variate statistical analysis?0:32:59 – What is a multivariate statistical analysis, and how does it work?0:40:09 – The 600 people whose data was used in this analysis, and getting away from statements like “I have 5.13 finger strength”0:49:12 – What % of climbers have climbed 5.13?0:50:56 – List of the variables used in this analysis0:53:45 – Casey's simple model using three variables0:55:15 – How important is climbing outside vs. max finger strength?0:56:35 – Why climbing outside ended up being the most heavily weighted variable in the multivariate model0:59:10 – Higher-end statistics require interpretation1:00:47 – Check out their blog post and the climbing calculator!1:02:08 – Do height, weight, wing span, or BMI affect how hard you can climb?1:07:57 – Thoughts on how age affects how hard you can climb, and playing to your strengths as a short climber1:09:37 – What the data doesn't tell us1:11:06 – The range of climbing abilities in the 600 participants1:12:36 – How the coefficient for max hangs turned out to be negative, and what that likely means1:18:08 – What should people spend their time on to get better at climbing?1:20:59 – How training can lead to expectations, and getting good before you get strong1:24:38 – Getting creative with skill drills1:25:34 – Watching climbing videos, and filming your Kilter Board sessions1:27:49 – Diving deeper into what you should do to climb harder boulders and sport routes1:32:06 – Looking for low-hanging fruit1:35:03 – How Karly used the online calculator before her trip to El Salto1:36:08 – How to use the online climbing calculator, and how to take the assessment1:39:34 – How many outdoor days does it take to be a master?1:42:35 – Injury prevention isn't captured in the model1:43:41 – What variables would Karly and Casey like to see in their dream multi-variate statistical analysis?1:46:39 – What is Mikey Schafer up to?1:48:16 – Skiing this winter, and finishing his masters1:48:52 – The momentum that comes with doing hard things, and looking at high performers1:51:56 – Final thoughts and wrap up

Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it's a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “NUGGET” for $10 off!I recommend the Progressor 150 for finger training and testing. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/scott-johnstonNuggets:0:04:56 – Inventing telescopes, and refurbishing European sports cars0:11:25 – Being a cross-country ski racer, climbing with Steve House, and getting into coaching0:13:22 – Why Scott and Steve decided to write Training for the New Alpinism0:15:30 – Partnering with Kilian Journett on a second book Training for the Uphill Athlete0:19:00 – The mistake of trying to mimic people like Killian Journett or Adam Ondra0:23:05 – Sound bites, the dumbing down of our attention spans, and applying traditional training methods to unconventional sports0:25:09 – Who is the Uphill Athlete book for?0:27:56 – Being a general outdoor athlete and a climber0:28:54 – Patron question from Alex: Tips for training for bouldering and sport climbing during ski season and vice versa?0:34:42 – Why more training isn't always better0:37:39 – Building capacity, and why you rarely perform well while you're training0:39:19 – Block periodization0:42:09 – Monitoring your recovery, using a hangboard to check in, and the restorative effect of easy aerobic activity0:46:59 – Capacity vs. utilization training0:54:26 – Training vs. randomly exercising0:57:16 – Fundamental qualities of sports, and building capacity in different qualities1:03:32 – Putting money in the bank vs. spending it1:07:18 – Why you should back off after you hit a PR in your training1:12:24 – Deloads1:16:40 – Non-linear periodization1:18:54 – The aerobic system, and the vacuum cleaner analogy1:25:54 – Developing layers of endurance1:27:52 – How and why boulderers and sport climbers should train endurance1:31:56 – More about the layers of endurance1:38:25 – My upcoming Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel,  why training needs to be more specific at higher levels, and how recovery makes you stronger1:41:33 – How important is active recovery?1:44:32 – The flaw with HRV for measuring recovery1:50:20 – Tuning in to your body, and how to test your level of fatigue1:53:34 – Using the Tindeq to test your finger strength before training (use code NUGGET for $10 off)1:56:47 – Why monitoring your progress leads to mental toughness2:03:19 – How to get the experience you need to climb technical mountains and alpine routes2:06:25 – The Dreaded Water Carries, and improving muscular endurance2:19:29 – How long and how often should our training blocks be?2:22:20 – Losing two climbing partners on K22:27:33 – How to fail successfully2:34:09 – Inventing challenges, and the essential parts of being human2:38:02 – Scott's current outdoor lifestyle, and trying to slow the decline as aging athletes2:42:26 – Doing max strength to recover from hard endurance work2:46:15 – A teaser for how to increase your weighted pull-ups2:50:29 – Where to find Scott2:52:33 – What excites Scott the most about the future of alpinism and mountain running2:56:40 – Understanding training principles, and the key takeaway from this episode

Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/don-mcgrathNuggets:0:03:56 – The love/hate relationship to climbing in Rifle and Smith Rock0:07:49 – Living in Colorado Springs, spending the winter in the gym, and working with a coach0:08:52 – The two simple diet changes Don made to lose his “60-year-old belly”0:10:56 – Increasing his climbing volume, getting on harder routes in the gym, and the accountability of a coach0:12:31 – Whiskey time, habits, and alcohol substitutes0:16:16 – Turning 60, being retired, and setting the goal of climbing 5.12+/13- (7c/+) again after a decade0:18:07 – Don's coach Kevin Branford0:20:40 – Don's introduction to climbing, and how he became interested in writing and mental training0:27:27 – Shame Theory, and Fear of Failure0:30:43 – How the mental aspect of training is overlooked, and diving into movement, emotions, and thoughts0:34:03 – How to tackle fear of falling, scripts, working on one thing at a time, and the arsenal of uneventful falls0:39:16 – The story of the woman in The Gunks, and understanding irrational fear0:42:29 – Debunking scripts0:45:40 – The script that was holding Don back when he was one-hanging routes in Rifle0:47:49 – Don's mantra, and “one move at a time”0:52:20 – Pre-climb ritual0:56:38 – Don's first breakthrough with his mental game0:58:11 – Most common unproductive scripts1:04:23 – The best piece of onsighting advice I've gotten1:05:25 – Opening and closing your focus1:08:53 – What musical instruments and karate have to do with climbing1:10:30 – Warmups as a big missed opportunity1:13:56 – Cocreative coaching with your climbing partner1:17:43 – Shoulds elicit a shame response1:21:02 – Recommendations for couples who are also climbing partners1:23:25 – The area of mental game that I've been focused on, more about scripts, and breaking into new grades1:29:32 – Patron question from Gromstoph: Do you have any strategies for getting comfortable on a route more quickly?1:33:05 – “Just go find out.”1:37:29 – Patron question from Caden: Are there any ways to practice commitment with new moves when doing new climbs?1:40:37 – Main takeaway about mental training1:41:24 – How to love your sport as you age, play, and innovate1:46:24 – Why climbing is unique1:48:06 – Duct tape and baling wire1:49:40 – Don's advice for those of us in our 20s and 30s1:51:52 – Socio-behavioral changes, and employing winning tactics1:54:28 – Don's book The Climb1:56:38 – What's the next book?1:57:15 – Don's writing practice, and how a book develops a life of its own1:59:01 – Advice from Les Brown: “Every point should have a story, and every story should have a point.”2:00:41 – Have fun, enjoy the process, and embrace the suck2:03:30 – Getting inspiration from watching kids2:04:53 – Inspiration from good coaches, and the book Running With the Buffalo2:06:25 – What's next?2:07:23 – Wrap up, and how to connect with Don

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough.  Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnoldNuggets:0:08:25 – Interviews, speech coaches, and TED Talks0:11:29 – Finding new terrain for this interview0:12:09 – Alex's epic solo linkup in Zion0:15:20 – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress'… again0:16:12 – Why do these big solo linkups?0:17:00 – Alex's epic solo linkup in Red Rock0:18:58 – Foot pain on big walls and linkups, and vitamin I0:21:45 – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune's Buttress' and ‘Resolution Arete'0:24:38 – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed0:25:33 – Why do some solos get so much attention while others fly under the radar?0:26:51 – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso' in Mexico, and pitching films0:29:21 – What are the limits of free soloing?0:32:35 – It's getting harder to have quantum leaps0:34:20 – Feeling content with his Yosemite and soloing accomplishments, and comparing himself to the top sport climbers0:36:26 – Chris Sharma doing the FA of ‘Necessary Evil' 5.14c (8c+) in his first few years of climbing, and the role of talent in high-end climbing0:39:44 – Alex's sport climbing resume, what it would take for him to climb 5.15a (9a+), and the tension in his climbing0:42:37 – Dad strength, and having to focus with limited time0:43:50 – The climbing gyms in Vegas, and dreams of a home wall0:49:34 – Near misses while soloing0:55:34 – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps' in Riglos Spain0:57:46 – Competing with Ethan Pringle as a kid, soloing ‘Shune's Butress' in the snow, and the tree story1:03:16 – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger', Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals1:04:22 – Climbing slowly, and the physiological limits on ‘The Nose' speed record1:08:06 – What it took to break ‘The Nose' speed record, and Alex's thoughts on breaking it again1:10:47 – The biggest lessons Alex has learned from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft1:14:26 – Drawing inspiration from other climbers, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou1:18:15 – Following the climbing news1:19:01 – Who Alex is most impressed by in climbing, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)1:20:35 – The new season of Climbing Gold, and unearthing the great stories of climbing1:22:13 – Who Alex has been most thrilled to interview1:23:28 – The time commitment of Climbing Gold, corporate speaking, and interviewing Stone Masters1:26:24 – Will Climbing Gold ever put out uncut interviews?1:28:37 – Pooping while free soloing stories1:34:56 – Shit-putting, and where he stopped to poop on his solo of El Cap1:36:29 – Filming Free Solo, how the movie far exceeded his hopes and dreams, the warrior spirit, and soloing as modern blood sport1:38:54 – The commitment to excellence, and his running list of goal routes1:41:05 – Plans for the PNW, hard routes on Liberty Bell, and having more commitments and time constraints these days1:43:57 – “More intention never hurt.”1:44:47 – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams' V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation' at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosiNuggets:0:05:18 – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland0:07:56 – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for0:10:53 – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield0:12:17 – Following Will's journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated0:15:38 – Mutation continues to go unrepeated again after Will did it0:17:23 – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)0:20:07 – Will's first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan's shed0:23:32 – Will's thoughts on Shawn's progress on Burden0:25:10 – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move0:30:16 – Will's standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica0:33:45 – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session0:36:26 – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden0:41:12 – How Will's beta compared to Nalle's, and the heal hook beta0:46:17 – What a full session looked like on the replica,  and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder0:51:28 – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send0:54:48 – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder0:57:33 – Will's shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move0:58:53 – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb's experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots1:08:50 – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?1:12:03 – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan's shed1:15:35 – Will's thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger1:26:27 – Will's feats of finger strength on the hangboard1:30:57 – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?1:34:21 – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b1:38:24 – Bigger edge training vs. micros1:40:52 – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity1:46:28 – Will's absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)1:49:10 – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur1:52:21 – What's next for Will, and potential plans for the summer1:53:59 – Will's thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a1:55:13 – Being more thoughtful about your climbing1:57:17 – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden1:58:22 – Subscribe to Will's YouTube channel for send footage!

Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie's apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie's own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone's going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie's climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie's goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie's approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie's honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie's experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up

Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanzaNuggets:0:06:25 – Update on Melina's foot surgery and recovery0:10:27 – The patent bar exam, and similarities between patent law and climbing0:15:15 – Legos, and being a nerd growing up0:16:45 – How taking her first physics class improved her climbing0:19:30 – Modern volume climbing0:24:06 – How Melina is thinking about her climbing moving forward, and training for upcoming competitions0:26:20 – Plans to get back into sport climbing, and Melina's Tumbler account0:28:31 – Why Melina decided to quit climbing in college0:33:36 – Fun in competitions, and only doing competitions that she wants to be at0:36:48 – Expectations and pressure, and competing to win vs. competing to not lose0:42:25 – Competitions as data, and “shoulding”0:45:21 – Melina's Instagram post about her eating disorder, and the story of breaking her foot0:50:40 – The distortion your mind experiences with an eating disorder, and how sports glamorize suffering0:57:42 – How your identity becomes entangled in an eating disorder, and rewriting the stories you tell yourself1:01:53 – The importance of including fat and carbs in your diet, and getting stronger quickly once she started fueling properly1:09:54 – Taking a leap of faith, and being vulnerable publically to help others1:15:40 – A comment from Nicole1:16:23 – Patron question from Katja: What inspired her to go public with her story?1:19:13 – Not letting her eating disorder define her1:20:09 – Did talking about it publically help?1:22:53 – Patron question from Ana: Did anyone bring up Melina's weight as a concern?1:24:50 – Patron question from Eric: How would someone bring up concerns about an eating disorder in a tactful way?1:27:10 – Patron question from Zachary: How does Melina deal with intrusive thoughts around weight? How does she balance performance with recovery?1:30:52 – Disconnecting morality from food, and sweets1:34:31 – How not eating enough disrupts sleep1:37:30 – Fun facts with Melina Costanza!1:37:37 – Tattooing people in high school1:39:02 – Ketchup1:40:44 – Container store1:42:05 – Whiteboards and houseplants1:43:54 – Taylor Swift1:47:41 – Doja Cat1:49:46 – Sharks1:50:18 – The meat packing industry in the early 1900s1:51:59 – Parents and academics1:54:17 – Training at home during covid with her brother, and the role of gratitude in training1:59:07 – Current training, and getting strong2:04:29 – Training her fingers for the first time, and using the Tindeq (use code NUGGET for $10 off!)2:07:47 – How hard can Melina climb with one foot?2:09:18 – More fun facts with Melina!2:09:50 – Frozen peas2:10:46 – Baby teeth necklace2:11:50 – Forensic pathology DVDs2:15:02 – Raw octopus2:15:49 – Medival torture museum, and developing confidence2:19:15 – Fencing2:20:20 – Olympic aspirations2:21:23 – A couple of questions from Tyson Schoene2:26:19 – Wrap up

Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more.Watch This Video!Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The GuardianCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/johnny-dawesNuggets:0:04:22 – A couple of fun stories from our past lives0:08:01 – Having a blue day, dicking about, and thoughts on what he wants to accomplish in his life0:10:25 – The head, the heart, and the gut0:11:22 – Knowing where you're going, the water bottle, and the grannies0:15:51 – Why I was so excited to talk with Johnny0:17:24 – Crawling out the driver's window of his car with a brick on the accelerator0:21:42 – Breaking down one of his legendary no-hand climbs (watch the Guardian video!)0:26:35 – Johnny's ideal staircase, and flattening the world to flatter our egos0:30:07 – Bolts and baked potatoes0:32:04 – Johnny's thoughts about modern bouldering, and being impressed with Shawn Raboutou0:33:38 – Chess problems, eyes bigger than tummy, and what brought the best out of Johnny in his climbing0:37:55 – Sticking an 8A (V11) hang on two terrible holds0:42:06 – What Johnny looks for in climbing, and the musicality of climbing0:52:04 – Hank Pascal0:53:27 – Watchin Jerry Moffatt climb Masters Wall, and why Johnny felt compelled to climb Indian Face, the world's first E91:01:09 – North Wales, the apple tree, and wanting to be a part of the history of the sport1:10:01 – Sending Indian Face, partying at the disco, trying The Meltdown 9a, and some of Johnny's recent new routes at Cloggy1:15:19 – Breakdown of the difficulty and gear on Indian Face, and how it got its name1:20:36 – Kurt Albert on the escalator1:23:59 – Patron comment from Artjom, and no-hands tips and exercises from Johnny1:27:48 – The hardest things Johnny has climbed without his hands, and climbing 1600+ “walks” in Britan1:31:15 – Spectacular Walks on British Rock1:32:38 – Making grip1:35:47 – How no-hands climbing applies to hard technical rock climbing1:37:55 – How Johnny Dawes approaches improving footwork1:41:19 – Writing the Footwork Handbook1:43:38 – His autobiography, his writing practice, and the mysteries of consciousness1:47:58 – Zen and the Art of Archery1:51:03 – A window into being alive, and games that keep you present1:53:12 – “Your enthusiasm tells you who you are”, and climbing in gardening gloves1:55:19 – Patron question from Will: What climbers inspired Johnny early on?1:57:50 – Music, writing, and artistic inspirations1:58:40 – Who does Johnny pay attention to these days in climbing?2:01:05 – Patron question from Nick: What do you think climbing will or should look like in another 30 years?2:03:12 – Climbing shoe evolution, and the world's strongest man2:05:19 – Life lessons with Johnny Dawes, the three-legged stool, and making omelets and pasta2:12:20 – Formative causation2:14:19 – Go to bed when you're tired, and treat people like icebergs2:15:35 – “It is never too late to be who you might have been.”2:19:37 – Roof man, and being useless2:22:12 – Reading Jeff Smoot's book, and why humans do dangerous things2:25:22 – Wanting to do impossible things, and “modern life can go f*** itself”2:26:57 – “Can I go?”

Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse FirestoneTom Randall's Follow-Up:Follow-Up: Tom Randall The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-6Nuggets:0:02:55 – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence"0:09:56 – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks0:11:56 – Jesse's new philosophy, and realizing that he will never try everything on his list0:13:37 – Steven's Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year0:16:31 – Jesse's Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year0:17:16 – Steven's Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year0:20:01 – Jesse's Tip #2: Keep a daily journal0:21:17 – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year0:22:14 – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season0:24:21 – My prefered journaling method, and the +/- system0:26:43 – Jesse's Google Keep beta0:28:05 – Steven's Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines0:34:36 – Jesse's Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase0:40:05 – Jesse's Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)0:43:27 – Steven's Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal0:44:34 – Steven's Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training0:45:23 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Just winging it0:45:43 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Not having a plan0:47:21 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches0:48:28 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)0:49:22 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase0:52:14 – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session0:53:55 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.0:55:24 – Jesse's Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)0:57:12 – The progression zone0:58:04 – Steven's Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall0:58:47 – Jesse's Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three0:59:22 – Jesse's two goals for 20221:00:13 – Let us know if you want a season 2!

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-strohNuggets:0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals0:10:25 – Sam's stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam's thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned0:35:59 – Sam's background in sports0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience1:16:28 – Sam's biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style1:34:12 – Sam's ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap1:37:34 – The Freerider story1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks1:46:58 – Sam's knee injury1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5Nuggets:0:03:26 – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!0:04:12 – Why picking the right project matters0:05:41 – Jesse's experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA0:07:05 – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO0:09:39 – Jesse's epic to climb his first V10 in OR0:11:34 – Times I've botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR0:15:58 – Jesse's experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR0:17:04 – Steven's Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy0:18:09 – Jesse's Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?0:21:03 – Bonus Tip: Know thyself0:22:08 – Steven's Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they're not absolute0:24:01 – Jesse's Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation0:27:16 – Steven's Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing0:27:56 – Steven's Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)0:29:55 – Jesse's Tip #3: Once you've committed to trying to do something, it's ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty0:33:55 – Steven's Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you0:37:27 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list,  and not leaving room for serendipity0:40:40 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways0:42:13 – Jesse's realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA0:43:00 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)0:45:35 – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt0:48:00 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move0:50:45 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don't let yourself be put in a box!)0:53:02 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge0:54:20 – Jesse's Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it's there0:54:50 – Jesse's Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects0:56:37 – Summaries are in the show notes!0:57:17 – Jesse's Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what's inspiring0:58:04 – Steven's Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you've ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou's vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom's Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam's Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom's advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom's busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom's quest to find the ultimate climbing  experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time' E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he's so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It's still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra's channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam's 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam's recommendations for The Nugget's channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom's advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren't brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom's advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom's upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam's upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4Nuggets:0:04:23 – Jesse's realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller0:06:23 – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing0:07:47 – Jesse's Tip #1: Structure your technical practice0:10:38 – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement0:12:25 – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse's0:14:23 – Steven's Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber0:15:35 – Jesse's Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity0:16:53 – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster0:19:30 – Steven's Tip #2: Watch climbing videos0:22:21 – Jesse's Tip #3: Film yourself incessantly0:26:27 – Steven's Tip #3: Do perfect repeats0:29:33 – Steven's Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries0:30:59 – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well0:33:48 – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.”0:36:26 – Jesse's Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language0:38:31 – Steven's Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag0:40:33 – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement0:42:12 – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall0:42:12 – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully0:43:34 – “Take me to a moderate that I've never heard of.”0:43:56 – Jesse's Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall0:48:38 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Assuming you've learned everything there is to learn0:51:33 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique0:55:08 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Going through the motions0:56:38 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice0:58:36 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing1:02:25 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas1:03:51 – Steven's Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you're bad at and turning everything into your style1:06:14 – Jesse's Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you're moving on the wall1:06:31 – Steven's Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wallNuggets:0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn't miss competing and racing0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie's hut ski trip0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.”0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie's story of climbing Fitz Roy0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience1:01:18 – “If we're not learning are we really happy?”1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie's menopause article1:38:09 – Jeannie's vision for Broad Beta1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3Nuggets:0:03:29 – The worst sport climbing I've been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations0:09:16 – Jesse's experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock0:10:29 – Jesse's Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew0:11:38 – Steven's Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip0:13:12 – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful0:14:30 – Jesse's Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip0:15:30 – Jesse's endurance/money analogy0:16:14 – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall0:18:38 – Jesse's Tip #3: Be mindful of crag's ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag0:19:48 – Steven's Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have0:22:27 – Steven's Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try0:23:21 – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose0:23:57 – Jesse's Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal0:25:40 – Steven's Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try0:27:29 – Jesse's Tip #5: Dial in your snack game0:29:02 – Steven's Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don't try to do both0:31:59 – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you'll probably get better at sport climbing over time0:38:35 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers0:40:47 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip0:43:19 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders0:45:45 – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip0:48:11 – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting0:50:10 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone0:51:31 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip0:52:10 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations0:53:55 – Jesse's Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it's secondary to actual sport climbing skills0:54:25 – Steven's Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count

Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caleb-robinsonNuggets:0:07:20 – A Thursday in the life of Caleb Robinson0:08:55 – New Year's Resolutions, and building habits over time0:11:24 – Climbing V13 in the first few years of climbing, and how competitive soccer informed his climbing and training approach0:16:05 – How deadlifting fixed Caleb's back0:21:08 – Being enamored with soccer, and why he quit soccer and started climbing0:24:07 – There's no middle ground in conventional team sports, and why climbing is so special0:29:16 – Uncle —> karate gym —> climbing0:34:00 – “The hard work that you don't want to do pays off.”0:36:04 – “Intelligence is just as important as physical prowess.”0:36:45 – Quadzilla, and connecting between the upper body and lower body0:40:42 – How “hard work pays off” applies to Caleb's climbing0:42:41 – Being a self-learner, and having intention0:49:12 – Training resources and athletes that have guided Caleb's approach0:52:26 – Experimenting with training, focusing on being good at climbing, and avoiding common mistakes and pitfalls0:59:24 – How Caleb developed his technique, and the importance of climbing with people who are better than you1:02:57 – Having a mobility routine, dedicating time to recovery, and missing snowboarding1:08:40 – Caleb's finger-training journey1:19:50 – The value of consistency + simplicity, and sticking with it when progress slows (and Caleb's love affair with Dave MacLeod)1:27:17 – What Caleb's finger training progress looked like over the two years that he did max hangs1:31:41 – Caleb's grip positions for hangboarding1:33:52 – How his finger training has changed in the past year, and learning to apply his finger strength to climbing1:38:13 – What a typical training week looks like for Caleb1:45:16 – Why Caleb started route setting1:47:21 – A typical training week now as a route setter1:49:31 – Caleb's philosophy about skills, finger strength, and core strength, and his stable workouts right now (board climbing, campusing on the spray wall, etc)1:52:32 – Caleb's core training routine1:58:01 – Why Caleb focuses on maximal effort training1:59:12 – The importance of quality practice2:00:32 – “Success comes with consistency over a long period of time”, and Caleb's photography career2:03:07 – Moody Russian painters2:04:31 – Finding his own artistic expression in photography, and the collaborative side of taking portraits2:10:42 – Taking the long view as an athlete and artist2:13:32 – The one thing Caleb wishes people spent more time thinking about2:19:24 – Wrap up and what's next

Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2Nuggets:0:04:22 – A favorite memory from Jesse's trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 20170:11:12 – Top out views0:12:06 – Jesse's Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads0:16:55 – Steven's Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible0:20:21 – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training0:22:51 – Steven's Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you're trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)0:24:56 – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)0:25:35 – Jesse's Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)0:30:01 – Steven's Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders0:32:41 – Jesse's Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)0:35:01 – Steven's Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff0:36:28 – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try0:36:49 – Steven's Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)0:39:06 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 10:40:22 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)0:41:46 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing0:42:59 – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)0:44:35 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have0:46:45 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect0:48:02 – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade0:48:26 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety0:52:40 – Jesse's Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics0:53:23 – Steven's Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie's top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery0:09:55 – Ollie's work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery0:14:25 – Ollie's thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie's funny story about his first interview on Training Beta0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression0:26:06 – “What got me here won't get me there.”0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie's process of examining movement, joint, and action0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan's approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower1:21:00 – Limbic friction1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low2:08:23 – Staying on the bus2:11:39 – Ollie's gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom's cellar2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is….2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn't think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter2:43:12 – My (Steven's) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can't train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering3:09:41 – “Progression isn't always the answer.”3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie's story about his first 5.14b (8c)3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing3:31:53 – Take action on something3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team3:36:42 – Wrap up

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you'll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won't have to.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1Nuggets:0:02:53 – Jesse's story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA0:06:28 – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips0:09:11 – Jesse's Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early0:12:11 – Jesse's Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day0:13:58 – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips0:17:55 – Steven's Tip #1: Be open0:21:48 – Steven's Tip #2: Climb some easy things0:23:47 – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are0:24:10 – Steven's Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff0:25:51 – Jesse's Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing0:27:24 – Try to avoid survival mode0:29:09 – Steven's Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends0:31:28 – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)0:34:12 – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip0:37:34 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good0:39:11 – My first trip to The Red, Jesse's first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area0:41:55 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Don't train right up until the trip, and don't try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)0:45:10 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb0:46:07 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much0:47:21 – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people's climbing0:49:01 – Bonus Tip: It's ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward0:52:39 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin0:54:47 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right0:57:52 – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip0:58:57 – Jesse's Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip0:59:37 – Steven's Top Tip: Be open1:00:31 – Wrap up

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don't let her specialization fool you—she's an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnuttNuggets:0:08:20 – Anna's childhood room0:10:00 – Plans for Austria0:11:21 – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast0:12:50 – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus0:14:35 – What is Anna's last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)0:17:39 – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget0:19:41 – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche0:24:40 – Anna's climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side0:28:57 – Balancing intensity and comedy0:30:10 – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still0:33:30 – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time' E9 6c in the UK0:35:53 – Anna's “belaytioship” with Tom Randall0:39:29 – Going back for ‘Walk of Life' E90:41:33 – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab0:45:38 – Anna's approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters0:50:14 – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life' E90:55:32 – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna's thoughts on hangboard tests1:01:01 – Some context about the 9c test1:02:53 – Toe training!1:07:11 – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility1:09:15 – Leaning into our superpowers1:14:53 – Anna's dream board, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style1:19:30 – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom's house1:24:09 – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them1:28:45 – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits1:31:23 – Anna's thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged1:38:04 – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)1:41:20 – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on1:43:19 – Shoulder exercises for slab1:44:12 – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?1:46:59 – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown' 9a (5.14d)1:52:54 – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren't violent or war-like?1:58:52 – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna's work ethic come from?2:02:55 – Anna's sensitivity2:04:14 – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet2:09:31 – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page2:16:14 – Anna's story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym2:21:18 – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym?2:23:31 – Anna's thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion2:28:27 – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting2:31:32 – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted, and don't assume2:35:45 – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience2:39:17 – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes2:41:34 – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English2:42:32 – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos2:47:07 – Giving others permission2:49:28 – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing2:51:01 – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel2:52:59 – Anna's sources of income2:54:54 – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video2:56:41 – The difference between YouTube and podcasts3:00:35 – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals?3:06:43 – Empathy3:09:20 – Wrap up

Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I've faced along the way.Check out The Climbing Zine!climbingzine.comCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehallNuggets:0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine?0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression0:26:37 – Why you can't rely just on climbing for your happiness0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to0:29:26 – Luke's vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man0:42:13 – Steven's origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people's stories0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke

New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more.*This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I've done. And it's one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!kegelsandcoffee.com We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee

I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you've ever done?” Firstly, I don't have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020.Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack' in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang's shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing. Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repostNuggets:0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes”0:14:07 – Eating every other day0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1', how ‘Chain Reaction' got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym', and pushing world standards0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang's t-shirt0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of '85, and ‘East Face Crack' 5.13d1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain'1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall' and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be'1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra1:31:00 – Adam's post about meeting Alan, and Adam's onsight of ‘Just Do It' 5.14c1:36:52 – Adam's photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”)1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!”1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It' for a TV show in 19891:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do”1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route”1:54:15 – Alan's finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook2:02:26 – Alan's box of tights2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport2:19:53 – “He's cheating”, and Alan's funny recurring dream