That's Not Real Climbing

So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don't, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she's still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we'll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.Guest links:Shauna's InstagramReference links:Foxy HoldsWomen's Climbing SymposiumThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2;23 - Running climbing clinics6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics14:39 - How she started climbing + competing17:59 - Team GB then vs now19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"53:28 - Best comp memories 58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise? 1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna

Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What's crazy is that he didn't start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we'll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn't know because he can't “watch” climbing content.Guest links:Chaz's InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing13:16 - Losing sight later in life26:16 - Lead belaying blind36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall1:03:24 - Hiding his disability1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing1:31:12 - Being an inspiration for his son1:33:47 - Blind hockey show and tell1:41:46 - IG Q: How long does it take to get in sync with your caller?1:42:54 - IG Q: Does speed climbing work well for blind people?1:49:26 - DISCORD Q: Would paraclimbers want to compete in bouldering?1:55:25 - Words of wisdom + where to find Chaz

Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we'll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.Guest links:Tijl's InstagramReference links:Info on elections and candidatesThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works 15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl

Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we'll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it's like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.Guest links:Gregor's InstagramReference links:Gregor's hold brandThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:08 - Spray wall noob questions5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for21:21 - Career highlights and traveling25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road27:57 - Competing with migraines30:55 - Making the decision to retire37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"42:14 - Setting vs competing45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations47:55 - What is hold shaping52:52 - Do we really need more holds?55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Janja?1:19:09 - Matt Groom trolling1:20:44 - Final thoughts and where to find Gregor

Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I've interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we'll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.Guest links:Anna's InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting14:42 - Big performance boost in 202417:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit25:09 - German national team30:04 - German military sponsorship34:04 - 2025 season36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 202839:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!42:23 - Outdoor projects43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna

Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.Guest links:Rodrigo's InstagramReference links:Brazilian Hold Brand - CruxNight Moves - Outdoor Brazilian ClimbingThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure13:57 - Living in Australia16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America25:31 - Brazil climber funding30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo

Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.Guest links:“Another Setting Podcast”Niki's YoutubeJake's YoutubeNiki's InstagramJake's InstagramReference links:The hold that doesn't need to existRoutesetting workshops through Frankenjura AcademyDockmasters 2025 - JanuaryStudiobloc masters 2025 - MarchQuarrymanThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:29 - Stretching!5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting10:23 - Settings trends in each country15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms24:54 - Lack of style in world cups32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy52:58 - How will setting innovate?57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake

Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we'll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.Guest links:WebsiteInstagramReference links:Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbersPainfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise MedicineOlympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMedDavid Barrans IFSC HistoryThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:17 - Holidays4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy

"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.Guest links:InstagramTiktokReference links:Anime RecommendationK-drama RecommendationThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!2:06 - Post-season break4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family12:24 - Birth order stereotypes15:16 - Shingles in Paris19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics36:12 - Being emotional on camera38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season40:17 - Making lead climbing gains45:18 - Winning her first WC medal51:24 - Competition schedule preference54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps59:09- Weeb/koreaboo?1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year?1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan?1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing?1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister1:11:53 - Where to find Oce

Tom is team GB's ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he's banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramEmailReference links:Wedge ClimbingJanja Unfiltered Period TalkLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA13:18 - How to get into coaching now18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 202437:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach40:56 - How GB training camps work44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"1:26:45 - Tom's future1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom

Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she's part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Weight Vest VideoLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC6:05 - Climbing + Competing start7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick19:55 - Slab is the enemy22:10 - Being a short climber26:08 - Training schedule 30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation31:42 - Swiss athlete funding35:23 - Money and YouTube 41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders54:47 - Bulking & cutting? 1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber?1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya

Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we'll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we'll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:Stanley's InstagramZul's InstagramReference links:Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023Appeal FormStickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics7:31 - Their IFSC Roles12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE49:19 - The appeals process53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards1:14:06 - Fixing the weather1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations? 1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul

Jesse is a boulder + lead climber (mostly lead climber) from the USA who is fresh from the Olympics! In this episode, he walks us through his entire Olympics experience, from training through his first ever finger injury, to balancing training with his engineering job, to meeting other athletes in the Olympic village.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramReference links:Protect Our WintersLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Post-Olympics travels7:04 - Climbing and competing start9:41 - Youth training + competition12:39 - Wanting to work as an engineer17:55 - Only getting 1 shot on a World Cup lead route20:52 - Slipping on the Olympics semis lead route23:12 - Boulder mindset as a lead climber26:11 - Olympics Combined format strategy29:42 - Finger injury leading up to the Olympics35:34 - Olympics training with a hurt finger42:41 - Olympics village experience - feeling like a real athlete47:17 - Dealing with post-Olympic blues51:22 - Goals post-Olympics52:55 - LA 2028 plans58:52 - Protect our Winters work1:04:35 - Discord Q: Why does it seem like you're friends with every climber on the circuit?! (And a discussion on competitiveness)1:10:03 - Discord Q: Professional and climbing career intersection?1:12:35 - Final thoughts: Voting and memes, where to find Jesse

Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramReference links:Boulder + Lead routesetting guidelines and point distribution goalsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Break after Paris2:35 - Climbing since childhood and being a team kid5:36 - Almost an Olympic snowboarder...7:28 - First time routesetting...was at an international comp16:26 - Becoming an IFSC routesetter20:09 - Setting for boulder vs lead21:57 - Dealing with the boulder setting guidelines26:06 - Trying to balance boulder vs lead difficulty at the Olympics35:36 - Height and route setting - The Ai Mori problem39:38 - Setting for men vs women42:30 - Setting for future Olympics?46:54 - Raising 2 little climbers48:26 - Competing again after giving birth53:21 - Hospitalizations in Budapest and Paris55:54 - Balancing training, traveling, motherhood57:47 - Non-climbing activities and snowboarding1:02:08 - Discord Q: How do you deal with negative setting comments?1:07:31 - Discord Q: Should the 2 zone format stay or go?1:10:15 - Discord Q: How do you improve your route setting skills? 1:12:59 - Discord Q: Unique challenges you face being a setter and mother 1:15:55 - Where to find Olga

I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it's like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We'll also hear about what it's like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck including the afterparties, and all about the Guam climbing scene.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramReference links:Climbing Gems BagLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Our climbing sesh2:57 - Starting climbing at 23 years old6:59 - Why he started comp climbing at 29 years old11:15 - Wanting to bring climbing back to Guam19:01 - Being a weekend warrior24:14 - Current training + work balance29:43 - Never having a personal coach32:27 - First World Cup experience in Innsbruck38:31 - The difficulty going to a WC alone45:23 - What people do in ISO for 8 hours51:09 - Thoughts while taking on his first WC Boulder54:07 - Least favorite comp moment57:02 - Innsbruck afterparty59:37 - Favorite comp moment1:05:40 - Climbing Gems chalk bag1:10:13 - Where is Guam1:13:02 - Guam climbing scene1:23:53 - Discord Q: What made you decide to participate in world cups as an average climber?1:30:15 - Discord Q: Are you going to all future bouldering WCs?1:35:24 - Final thoughts/where to find Allen

Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we'll get her take on getting married young and relationships among climbers.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Ditching Social Media Blog PostLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - The never-ending 2024 season6:11 - Climbing + competing start7:53 - Losing interest in lead climbing16:37 - Current training program19:43 - Moving to Germany and then back to Canada26:42 - Canada's funding struggle/lack of coaching33:31 - Canadian geographical difficulties37:26 - Discord Q: What obstacles will Canadian climbers need to overcome with Alannah and Sean retiring?39:32 - Comparison, competitive mindset, and the nationals curse44:00 - Deleting all social media49:31 - Social media and sponsorships55:11 - Making the exception for Youtube1:02:26 - Getting married young to another climber1:08:06 - Siblings or dating?!1:10:30 - Take on relationships between World Cup climbers1:14:39 - Competitiveness within the relationship1:21:40 - Relationship with Alannah Yip1:24:36 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the current field of comp climbing women compared to other nations?1:27:28 - Discord Q: Would there be a benefit to a more dedicated training center in Canada?1:30:09 - Final thoughts + where to find Madison

Sebastian is a German paraclimber. He is also the chair of the paraclimbing commission, and he worked on filing the application to get climbing into the Paralympics for LA 2028, which only recently got approved! In this episode, we'll learn about his journey accepting that his disease would affect his body and climbing forever, what the process was like for getting climbing into the Paralympics, the drama behind the paraclimbing classification process, and we talk about his harrowing 1000km journey to the Innsbruck world cup on just a solar hand bike.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:IFSC Classification InformationFAQ Video on the bikeShort teaser about the handbikeLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting into climbing/paraclimbing9:43 - Learning to live with ankylosing spondylitis23:58 - Applying for paraclimbing to become a Paralympic sport35:25 - Onsighting the Paralympic application and beating out surfing39:53 - What sport classes will be in the Paralympics44:51 - Requirements paraclimbing must fulfill to participate in the Olympics49:55 - Classification drama58:07 - How classification works1:05:15 - The difficult job of classifiers: fluctuating impairments1:09:25 - Funding his climbing1:13:07 - And the solar hand bike was born1:28:50 - Proudest outdoor climbing achievement1:33:00 - Closing thoughts/where to find Sebastian

Noah is the Assistant National Belay Coordinator of USA Climbing and has volunteer belayed at events nationally and internationally at IFSC youth worlds in 2022. In this episode, we'll learn about how to get into volunteer belaying, some interesting tidbits on belay devices and catching falls that you may not have thought about before, what the differences are belaying different paraclimbers, and some bad falls that he has had to witness.NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbingGuest links:InstagramUSA Belay InstagramReference links:First draw falls at USA Team TrailsBelay shoe clip incident mentioned from DiscordLeg caught in rope Youth WorldsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpTo help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Getting into climbing and belaying8:43 - Any certifications needed to volunteer belay?14:53 - Belay devices21:01 - Climbers falling + getting lowered at the same time23:34 - Do you get paid to belay?25:58 - Belayer prep for a comp37:03 - Do athletes ever get to choose their belayer?48:29 - NO belay glasses?!51:49 - Differences between youth, elite, para1:00:28 - Tandem belaying in paraclimbing1:03:01 - Nervousness while belaying59:22 - Team boulder arena com1:08:46 - Climber interactions1:11:11 - Bad falls during comps1:17:06 - How to become an IFSC belayer1:21:13 - Discord Q: Common bad practices belayers need to stop doing1:26:52 - Discord Q: Have you ever had to remove a volunteer belayer?1:29:54 - Discord Q: Have peopled ever submitted appeals for being shortroped?1:31:27 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the double Fisherman or Yosemite tuck?1:33:20 - Closing thoughts/where to find Noah

Ross is a boulder and lead climber on Team USA and you may be familiar with his Youtube channel where he documents his climbing adventures and shares coaching tips. In this episode, we'll learn about his bikepacking adventure that he skipped the first half of the 2024 world cup season for, hear about his struggle trying to balance competitions with his desire to travel and all his other hobbies, the importance of mindset and meditation, and if you're a USA bay area gym climber, maybe close your ears when he starts trashing the bay area gym scene. This episode is full of training and mindset tips!NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbingGuest links:InstagramYoutubeMind to Motion ClinicsReference links:How to Train/Stay Fit While TravelingLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpTo help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Going over my experience competing in Vail3:35 - Absolutely TRASHING California Bay Area gyms11:38 - Why Ross didn't attend the first few 2024 world cups13:15 - Insane bikepacking adventure20:16 - What makes going to a World Cup worth it25:10 - How Ross got into climbing34:52 - Class5 Climbing Team42:58 - The importance of who you climb with44:58 - Struggle balancing travel desires + competition49:16 - Hometown advantage makes a BIG difference55:12 - Climbing training tip: strength training staircase59:22 - Team boulder arena comp1:04:48 - Mindset: How to turn around negative thoughts1:08:51 - Fixing his SLC finals mindset1:15:39 - Meditation for climbing1:22:43 - "Being comfortable with the uncomfortable"1:29:40 - Balancing other sports with climbing1:40:16 - Using your non-dominant hand1:45:17 - Making time for Youtube1:50:05 - Proudest moment as a coach1:55:42 - Discord Q: How to use skincare products for comp climbing?2:00:27 - Discord Q: How to incorporate outdoor climbing into training? Any projects?2:07:51 - Discord Q: Favorite non-US teams to train with2:11:30 - Discord Q: Is the USA team dynamic more competitive or supportive?2:15:07 - Leave a comment with more questions if you want a pt 2/Where to find Ross

Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we'll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we'll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickname came from.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Keqiao Boulder Finals Difficult PaddleLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Rest after Shanghai OQS2:52 - Starting climbing + skateboarding9;12 - Her dad's gymnastics/climbing background11:29 - Jumping without bending your knees13:26 - Climbing preferences, strengths, weaknesses15:53 - Traveling for climbing experience17:36 - Team GB training process21:48 - Finding incredible form this season26:25 - Taking on a less serious mindset34:06 - Training goal setting35:41 - Difficulty maintaining friendships through training39:45 - Competing against your idols42:43 - GB Climbing Funding44:59 - Need for sponsorship46:33 - Handling the quick OQS -> Olympics turnaround time49:28 - Future climbing goals50:55 - Planetology interests53:20 - Living in Malaysia56:11 - Erin McBeast origin story57:29 - ISO activities59:28 - Discord Q: Did you ever had doubts in wanting to become a pro climber?1:02:30 - Discord Q: Training at home vs abroad1:03:59 - Discord Q: Do you do any other sports? Is cross-training beneficial?1:06:03 - Where to find Erin

Eddie is an ex-IFSC photographer, who worked with them from 2014-2020. In this episode, we'll get his thoughts on the ethics and purpose of photojournalism, hear about the chaos behind the scenes traveling around for world cups, and discuss ideas on how to get athletes better paid.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Vail triangle poseMia Krampl Koper incidentLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/The great photographer race13:31 - Comp background + injury16:29 - Starting photography24:53 - Becoming a professional photographer31:36 - IFSC freelance employment only34:23 - Photography itself is a competitive sport38:46 - Azerbaijan comp disaster46:45 - Strange historical US comp scoring50:30 - IFSC scoring, bringing back 4+ min57:47 - The importance + difficulty of commentary1:05:49 - Are there too many photographers?1:15:20 - Demeaning athlete posing1:17:55 - Behind the scenes portrait chaos1:20:48 - Youth climber dating distractions...1:23:34 - Climbers under RED-S pressure1:32:19 - Photographing athletes in vulnerable moments1:39:25 - Photojournalism + variety1:41:55 - Mia Krampl Koper Incident1:43:32 - “Losers” in sport1:51:10 - Pro comp climbers after retirement1:55:23 - Comparing climbing to disc golf1:59:03 - Ways to fix athlete funding2:06:22 - The fall of comp climbing?2:21:35 - Discord Q: Could/should there be an alternative to IFSC?2:23:36 - Olympics hatred2:33:21 - Discord Q: Differences between comp climbing vs outdoor climbing photography2:39:19 - Being more famous than Will Bosi2:43:48 - Where to find Eddie

Chloé is a boulder and lead climber competing in the world cup circuit for the Belgian team! This is my first time talking to a Belgian climber, so in this episode we'll learn a lot about their fairly newly established national team and how funding works, and we also talk about body image with being a more muscular climber, as well as the difficulties that come with being a female climber.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Master of Fire CompetitionTeam Boulder Arena (Competition w/ Stasa)Charlotte de WitteLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction/China stress3:35 - Going into simulation6:50 - Climbing beginnings10:39 - Transitioning from youth to senior circuit12:31 - Favorite discipline17:44 - Training with dad vs. with the Belgian team23:05 - Training with male athletes27:31 - Does the Belgian team train together?31:36 - Belgian athlete funding34:01 - Gaining strength too easily40:03 - Body image44:27 - Being the only woman on the Belgian team49:32 - Training with Stasa58:06 - Machismo in the climbing gym1:03:02 - 2024 goals1:04:32 - Discord Q: Are there any language difficulties within team Belgium?1:06:16 - Discord Q: What do you do in isolation?1:07:28 - Discord Q: What kind of music do you listen to?1:09:32 - Where to find Chloé

Charlie is a broadcaster and writer who preceded Matt Groom as an IFSC commentator and EpicTV host. In this episode, we'll learn about his rough start to IFSC commentating in 2016, ways that he thinks the IFSC could improve competitions, and get some insight into what it's like traveling around with athletes. He also shares his unique story about traveling to North Korea!Guest links:WebsiteReference links:Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction/giving some love to North America8:59 - Kicking IFSC's door in for a job14:25 - Hardest year: 2016 commentary18:02 - A trip to North Korea26:21 - Improving IFSC Production31:42 - Charlie's biggest commentary mistakes37:51 - Repetitive Commentary43:42 - The handoff to Matt Groom46:23 - Why he left IFSC51:03 - Post-IFSC work52:50 - What it's like traveling around with climbers56:40 - Dirtbag vs serious pro climbers1:07:12 - Ideas to make competitions more entertaining to watch1:13:18 - Secret beef between climbers?!1:18:16 - Discord Q: What changes would you like to see for comps/broadcasting?1:20:47 - Discord Q: Get Rid of ISO?1:23:03 - Discord Q: How could IFSC grow the sport?1:30:44 - Where to find Charlie

Cloe is a French/American boulderer who has competed for team USA in the international youth and elite circuit. In this episode, we'll learn about how she “accidentally” ended up competing in lead world cups, the difficulties of trying to make it onto a highly competitive US national team, and we give some love to good old gym climbing and plastic pulling!Guest links:Cloe's InstagramReference links:La Puissance song recLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction/preparing for team trials5:45 - Cloe's relatively late climbing start10:41 - Training in France 16:37 - Accidentally become a World Cup lead climber24:56 - Transitioning from youth to adult circuit31:09 - What impacts performace - MAKE SOME NOISE!!34:21 - Feeling insecure climbing with teammates37:44 - Disappointing 2023 season42:53 - Concussion troubles48:26 - My Soapbox: everyone try a head spa!49:22 - Gym climbing is the best climbing52:22 - Being in the IFSC commentary box54:38 - Crushing at every local competition57:00 - How amateurs can improve at comp climbing1:02:40 - Coaching endeavors1:08:07 - Cross-sport skills1:13:48 - Discord Q: Benefits vs downsides of competing for the USA1:17:29 - Discord Q: Unhinged stories living in the Powerhouse with Cece and Quinn?1:19:28 - Discord Q: Why French rap?1:21:57 - Discord Q: How does training with friends impact you?1:24:34 - Where to find Cloe

Tyler is a fellow competition climbing nerd and podcaster, who has been involved in the space much longer than I have, and you may be familiar with his channel, Plastic Weekly! In this episode, we'll talk about what it's like MCing at a world cup, commiserate on the hardships that come with climbing podcasting, go over some climbing HOT TAKES, and talk about the upcoming 2024 season!Guest links:Tyler's InstagramPlastic Weekly IGPlastic Weekly YoutubeReference links:Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:15 - Intro + gym experience7:16 - MCing and commentating at world cups13:35 - Beginnings of Plastic Weekly Podcast17:31 - Starting The Debrief series with John Burgman20:52 - Commiserating on highlights and lowlights of podcasting30:36 - Competition hot take: GOAT is overused42:09 - Hot take: Get rid of isolation?48:29 - People don't care about the overall title anymore?55:00 - NEOM games environmental impact1:01:35 - IFSC's new RED-S Policy1:05:54 - 2024 season predictions1:13:14 - Olympic favorites1:18:54 - Discord Q: Is there an absence of climbing media?1:24:19 - Discord Q: Are gyms are good place to start climbing careers?1:29:04 - Where to find Tyler

Cody is the USA national chief routesetter, and in the 2023 IFSC season he had the opportunity to set boulders in Hachioji, Prague, Innsbruck, and the Bern world champs! In this episode, we'll watch him read Youtube hate comments, and we'll learn about the differences between IFSC vs USA vs commercial routesetting, as well as hear about a crazy cool gym that he will be opening up soon.Guest links:Cody's InstagramSyndicate RoutesettingReference links:Reel: Routesetting Testing vs Athletes HachiojiBoulder Union - Climbing gymLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction2:06 - Starting climbing + routesetting at the same time12:58 - Juggling firefighting and setting19:03 - How he started setting for the world cups28:26 - Favorite World Cup wall to set on31:08 - Hate comment: Hachioji too hard43:44 - Hate comment: Hachioji did the setters have too much free time?46:21 - Hate comment: Hachioji should setters be able to top their boulders?51:37 - Hate comment: Prague M4/V455:44 - Hate comment: Prague calibrating difficulty of static climbing57:43 - Why Oriane won Prague instead of Janja31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing1:01:30 - Hate comment: Innsbruck height comments1:15:00 - Bern: How would Janja fare on a men's course?1:18:28 - Innsbruck: Resetting a whole boulder before the comp1:26:37 - The future of IFSC setting evolution1:32:05 - Lower body coordination moves1:37:17 - Feeling self conscious among athletes and setters1:47:04 - Getting tips for competing at Vail1:52:35 - The time it takes to set for IFSC vs national vs local comps1:56:44 - What makes a great route setter2:06:00 - Anyone else feel like US nationals setting looks different from IFSC?2:12:09 - Cody's crazy cool gym in an old bank2:25:50 - Discord Q: World Cup climbs vs comp style boulders in a gym?2:29:29 - Discord Q: Favorite round of world cups to set for?2:31:23 - Discord Q: Mistakes in commercial setting?2:34:21 - I'm traumatized by route setting2:37:07 - Discord Q: Will there be facilities in your gym for paraclimbers?2:39:41 - Discord Q: What kind of athlete is hardest to set for?2:44:49 - Discord Q: How much are setters able to sway rounds for athletes?2:52:08 - Where to find Cody

Carlie is the FIRST female chief setter at an IFSC world championship, where she led a team of 5 to set the world paraclimbing championships in Bern 2023! She has been climbing for over 20 years and setting for almost just as long, so she has a lot of experience. In this episode, we'll learn about all the things you have to keep in mind when setting world championship routes for paraclimbers, what it's like in the routesetting scene as a female setter, and what it's like owning a climbing gym.Guest links:Carlie's InstagramReference links:Bern 2023 RP1 routeIFSC Para Routesetting GuidelinesLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:18 - Tummy trubble4:10 - Starting climbing through school9:04 - How she became a paraclimbing setter11:09 - IFSC rules for paraclimbing setting14:46 - How to handle asymmetrical disabilities?16:32 - How to merge different paraclimbing classifications onto the same route20:26 - How para routes are forerun22:22 - Setting a route that did not work out as expected25:25 - How setters can get into paraclimbing setting26:42 - Breaking into routesetting as a woman 20 years ago31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing36:08 - Carlie's setting style37:37 - How motherhood impacted climbing + setting43:23 - Being a gym owner49:09 - My dream gym50:34 - Discord Q: Did you feel unconscious bias against you as a female setter?52:54 - Discord Q: Do setters get "writer's block"?54:41 - Discord Q: How often do you think gym routes/boulders should be reset?56:43 - Discord Q: Do you have any involvement in World Cup isolation setting?59:00 - Discord Q: Pros and cons of setting different qualifiers and finals in 1 day1:02:25 - Where to find Carlie

Anita Aggarwal and Christiane Luttikhuizen are paraclimbers who have competed in world cups as part of the RP3 sports class. RP3 is a classification for limited reach, power or stability. In this episode, we'll learn about what it's like climbing with a disability, the difficulties dealing with classification and class merging, whether or not the IFSC does a good job with accommodations, and the possibility of joining the Paralympics in LA 2028.Guest links:Anita's InstagramChristiane's InstagramReference links:Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:15 - Holiday debrief4:36 - How they got into climbing6:01 - Explanation of paraclimbing categories8:39 - Christiane's disability10:07 - Anita's disability12:05 - Classification + merging24:31 - Getting de-classified and re-classified30:17 - Managing fatigue + injury with competitions39:38 - How to join a paraclimbing team44:56 - History of paraclimbing47:54 - Paraclimbing formats, potentially lead or bouldering?50:33 - Paraclimbing route setting57:49 - Logistical issues and isolation insanity1:00:57 - Has the IFSC been good at accommodating paraclimbers?1:08:37 - Funding for paraclimbers1:16:23 - Not feeling disabled enough1:20:05 - How it feels to climb a para route1:25:18 - Matt Groom fan club1:28:41 - Anita on being an older competitor (50+)1:34:49 - Paralympics in LA 2028?1:41:26 - Discord Q: Are there any paraclimbers who do speed climbing?1:43:34 - Discord Q: Should there be more paraclimbing world cups?1:45:32 - Discord Q: What are the future areas of growth for paraclimbing?1:49:23 - Discord Q: How does the path of a pro paraclimber differ from that of an able-bodied climber?1:55:03 - Where to find Anita + Christiane + Outro

Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we'll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we'll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth, and hear her reflect on the 2023 season.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Career highlight - EU Champs Munich 2017 SuperfinalKoper 2022 “Heel Hookers vs Toe Hookers”Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction6:46 - Stasa's early climbing start16:09 - Growing up in a climbing family24:45 - How does bouldering isolation work?33:00 - Trying to calculate your competition35:25 - Physical and emotion state between quails, semis, and finals39:55 - Finals mental game42:15 - Routesetting + height (being a taller competitor)49:31 - Interest in commentating54:52 - Embarrassing commentating moments57:54 - Funding the Serbian climbing team1:04:07 - Climbing scene in Serbia, climbing resources1:07:25 - Will comp climbing be less collaborative now that there's money involved1:10:38 - 2023 season reflection1:15:19 - Climbers being too starstruck to talk to each other1:18:50 - Juggling masters degree with competitions1:22:27 - Currently binge watching...1:25:30 - Viola/Violin Talk1:28:21 - How OQS works1:31:48 - Preparing for OQS1:35:44 - Discord Q: Do you get negative responses to your on stage emotions?1:37:48 - Discord Q: Differences between how national teams train?1:39:16 - Discord Q: What do you like about Munich?1:43:16 - Discord comment: berating Janja for celebrating before clipping1:45:06 - Discord Q: Current outdoor projects?1:48:20 - Where to find Stasa + Outro

Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we'll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how he can up his social media game!Guest links:InstagramReference links:IFSC Ones to Watch InterviewLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction3:53 - When Sam started climbing7:21 - Is there an advantage to starting speed climbing younger?8:56 - Does speed climbing come naturally10:15 - Surprise! Speed Climbing is an endurance sport12:06 - PanAm Games experience19:39 - PanAm Village experience22:52 - World Cup season in relation to the Olympics25:14 - Do speed climbers get injuries?28:34 - Technical false start explanation37:17 - Breaking sub-5 and having a “clean” run41:51 - Strength cycle jail47:33 - Interest in doing non-speed climbing competitions?51:17 - Figuring out the social media game55:10 - Juggling high school and world cups58:22 - Non-climbing hobbies1:03:13 - Discord Q: Does speed relays have a future?1:05:37 - How to upload athlete info into the IFSC website1:07:29 - Discord Q: Who are your heroes?1:10:26 - Discord Q: Any weird speed ideas/formats to try out?1:12:04 - Discord Q: Do you do anything weird/unique in training?1:13:21 - Discord: How do you handle shoe selection for speed?1:17:15 - Memeing during an IFSC interview1:18:57 - Where to find Sam + Outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region's top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete's commission, so in this episode we'll talk about causes he'd like to champion through that, what it's like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up about his past struggles with eating disorders, as well as why he was partially missing in Olympic qualifiers in 2020.Guest links:InstagramReference links:The scariest comp fall EVERLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction3:13 - Past commentating experience7:46 - When Campbell first started climbing and competing10:17 - Transitioning from youth to adult15:14 - Growth as a climber19:17 - Recent Australian Boulder Nationals results!25:19 - The difficulties of being an Australian climber31:40 - Thoughts on how to grow the Australian team35:44 - What is the IFSC athlete's commission39:00 - Causes to fight for in athlete's commission44:00 - The issue of unfair routesetting48:34 - Personal experience with RED-S59:36 - RED-S differences between male and female climbers1:04:18 - Missing out on the 2021 Olympics1:11:35 - Excitement about not having to speed climb1:15:48 - Training plans after Oceania qualifiers1:19:22 - Discord Q: Are climbers are targeted by the government in regards to aboriginal heritage?1:23:03 - Discord Q: Thoughts on Eubank grading?1:24:42 - Discord Q: Being queer in the climbing community: how does it feel competing in countries where it's illegal?1:29:19 - Where to find Campbell + Outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some of the mistakes caught on audio.Guest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Commentary box behind the scenes videoChaehyun Seo misclip commentaryEuropean Championships speed finals UkraineLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction3:50 - Not an IFSC employee7:20 - Journey to becoming the IFSC commentator13:24 - What does the commentators box look like18:08 - Behind the scenes of production/broadcast21:47 - Finding a co-commentator27:10 - The most difficult part of commentating30:14 - Approaching comments and online hate34:50 - Let's go through Matt Groom bingo!42:25 - Trying to inform new viewers and still keep old viewers engaged46:38 - What the IFSC does right51:38 - The REDS hot mic incident1:01:37 - Work outside of IFSC commentary1:05:50 - Proudest career moment1:10:39 - Commentating for non-IFSC broadcasts1:13:08 - In defense of fanboying over British climbers1:18:44 - Personal climbing goals1:21:07 - Climbing with World Cup athletes?1:22:17 - I just want to see Matt climb in a comp1:24:57 - Discord: Do you get much feedback from athletes?1:27:31 - Discord: Will Charlie Boscoe ever have a job that you won't steal?1:29:31 - Discord: In a dream world, what kind of broadcast tech would you like to have1:32:31 - Discord: We need to know the origin of sticky Sorato1:37:23 - Where to find Matt + outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There's much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you'd expect, so tune in to learn more about what it takes!Guest links: Email: zoe@thebmc.co.ukReference links: Contact Holds trying to retexture old holdsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction4:37 - How to get into climbing event organization7:48 - How GB team + athletes make a living12:33 - The Edinburgh world cup disaster18:25 - Hopes of hosting another world cup21:10 - What a world cup event venue looks like26:10 - Indoor vs outdoor venues29:45 - Do national federations get guidance from IFSC for planning world cups31:51 - Organizing Bern world champs35:46 - How an ice hockey arena becomes a climbing center39:03 - Reigning in Adam Ondra41:15 - Bern did paraclimbing right42:23 - Organizing for paraclimbing47:28 - Paralympics!51:15 - Para accommodations to keep in mind55:11 - Anti-doping in climbing58:46 - Anti-doping testing1:01:14 - Drug use in climbing1:05:00 - Menopause and climbing?!1:10:06 - DISCORD: Why host world cups?1:14:02 - DISCORD: Environmental sustainability1:18:56 - DISCORD: Favorite/least favorite competitions?1:22:05 - DISCORD: Technical wall requirements?1:27:24 - How much does it cost to host a world cup?1:29:18 - Where to find Zoe + outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! Allegra has also competed a bit herself, competing in Swedish Lead Championships after only 2 years of climbing.Guest links:InstagramYoutubePsych CoachingReference links:Stefano Ghisolfi Self Compassion VideoGeila Macia Martin Youth World Champs Lead FinalsGeila Macia Matin Youth World Champs Boulder FinalsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction5:20 - Which climbing federations have climbing psychologists?7:54 - How climbing mixes with psychology13:26 - Learning self compassion from Stefano Ghisolfi17:21 - Anyone else relate to getting motivation from lack of self compassion?21:21 - Coaching at youth world champs27:00 - Sunk cost fallacy in climbing31:03 - Opportunity cost neglect in competition climbing39:52 - Psychological differences between youth and adult climbers41:57 - How to get over fear of falling47:49 - Fear of injuries53:13 - Is it worth it to overcome fear?59:01 - Is mental coaching even important?1:04:17 - Climbing in the Swedish Lead Championships1:07:13 - Women in competition1:12:09 - Gender gap in climbing1:18:07 - No such thing as fair in competition1:24:29 - Where to find Allegra

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!)Guest links: https://instagram.com/professorokhttps://youtube.com/@albertokayReference links:First beta break episodeAlbert commentating Chamonix speed finals 2023Albert's memeSpeed Climbing Relay RaceTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction2:52 - What got you into comp climbing?6:39 - History of comp climbing + has it improved?10:24 - The beta break Youtube series14:37 - Copyright issues20:13 - World cup afterparties22:16 - Why speed climbing?26:08 - The difficulties of accessing a speed wall30:03 - Becoming a speed coach39:28 - Coaching at the world cups - imposter syndrome45:47 - Dealing with speed wall differences at different locations50:42 - Why are countries like Indonesia so good at speed climbing?52:33 - Speed climber intricacies58:46 - Speed climbing in the Olympics1:01:52 - The Salt Lake City vision1:03:47 - Personal speed climbing pursuit1:09:06 - Head to toe of injuries1:16:32 - Discord Q: What stops people from getting into speed climbing?1:17:56 - Discord Q: Did the 2020 combined format undermine acceptance of speed climbing?1:19:54 - Discord Q: Do you know what the outcome of the athletes commission will be for speed?1:22:59 - Discord Q: What's in the future for speed and formats?1:25:41 - Discord Q: What was it like to rock climb with Akiyo Niguchi?1:28:34 - Outro + where to find Albert

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.Guest links:https://instagram.com/gracecrowlyeReference links:Classic Speed Climbing: VideoAdidas Rockstars: YT ChannelArco Rock Master: 2023 DuelPsicobloc: WebsiteTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:17 - Covid?!?!3:24 - Climbing for Australia as an American5:35 - How Grace got into climbing and competing8:18 - Making the national team after only 4 years of climbing12:01 - Competing in boulder vs speed14:51 - Deciding to focus on speed16:29 - What makes a good speed athlete?17:20 - Bad habits that need to be broken19:49 - How to train for speed23:30 - Can you train without a speed wall?27:42 - Does team Australia train together?29:21 - 2021 Visa Nightmare32:53 - Competing as a non-binary athlete34:50 - Would you prefer a separate, non-gendered category?36:52 - Do you feel accepted within the climbing community?38:54 - Reflecting on the 2023 season41:06 - Readiness for November competition43:54 - How The Olympics will impact 2024 World Cups47:37 - Upcoming goals?48:53 - Discord Q: Has it been hard finding coaches/walls?51:18 - Discord Q: Interest in speed bouldering?54:40 - Discord Q: Speed climbing outdoors?56:33 - Discord Q: Future of speed climbing + formats?1:02:46 - Outro

You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months, where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2 years.Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/jonathan_sin88https://www.youtube.com/@jonathan_sin88Reference links:Youtube video: I Trained Like a Pro Climber for 6 MonthsYoutube video: How I Made the National Team (speed)Timestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction0:51 - Gumby to v11 in 2.5 years3:03 - What is considered "training" for climbing?3:55 - How did you stay mostly injury free?7:27 - Hong Kong climbing scene9:18 - Boulder or lead?10:22 - Trying to become a pro climber in 6 months14:49 - Did you have a coach? and my noob training Qs18:56 - Why don't you share your training plan?21:15 - Try outs for the national team22:42 - How much lead training did you do?24:56 - How did you perform in lead?28:20 - How do you rest?31:46 - Your mental state during the competition?34:03 - Making the national speed team38:54 - Is there still hope for the national team in the future?46:41 - Difference between a “normal” climber and a pro51:50 - Why do you climb?56:25 - Discord Q: Experience difference between you and climbers who grew up climbing58:48 - Discord Q: How did you have the time and money to train?1:03:46 - Outro, find him on Youtube!

Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)…Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/mayasoundsReference links:Japanese outdoor climbers Sachi Amma (@sachiamma) and team Rokdo (@rokdo_team)Timestamps of discussion topics0:00 - introduction4:16 - why she got into volunteering9:13 - how can other get involved in volunteering at world cups?15:51 - downgrading Yoshiyuki for stepping on a bolt18:02 - it's not easy for Matt Groom22:37 - getting blocked by IFSC on social media25:17 - who is the IFSC?28:20 - the IFSC's PR problem32:09 - has the Eurosport deal been positive?37:22 - full time athletes and money troubles41:28 - world cup prize money43:43 - why does team Japan's make-up vary so much year to year48:04 - what makes team Japan so dominant?54:35 - addressing routesetter flack58:10 - how much experience do Japanese comp climbers have outdoors?1:02:02 - thoughts on Chaehyun's skipped clip controversy1:08:39 - athlete quirks from isolation1:13:33 - favorite athletes?1:16:02 - English training for the Japanese youth team1:18:54 - where has Kai Harada been?1:20:07 - final thoughts, growing pains1:23:27 - outro

Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He's known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We'll hear from him about what it's like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different competition formats, and how to improve the future of competition climbing. You can find the links below to follow along on his journey with BetaRoutesetting on Youtube or Instagram.Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/schniklashttps://www.youtube.com/@BetaRoutesettingReference links:The only climbing movie to watch: Stone MonkeyQ&A video about world cup setters: Q&AInterview with IFSC President: Marco ScolarisTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - introduction2:25 - how he got into routesetting4:24 - what it was like growing up within the climbing community7:10 - learning to love climbing again9:19 - tricky niki, the birth of parkour style climbing11:15 - my embarrassing lack of climbing knowledge, Johnny Dawes14:39 - response to routesetter criticism, he's willing to fight17:26 - how to set for an elite level climber20:05 - are climbing moves getting too repetitive?21:40 - existential crisis, why are people interested in watching comp climbing25:58 - are there any unforgettable climbing moments?29:16 - how the IFSC chooses world cup setters35:47 - what's missing from world cup coverage37:38 - IFSC holds39:00 - networking his way into the world cup41:39 - will we see the infamous spinning wheel climbing hold in a world cup?42:52 - setting rules that shouldn't exist44:44 - how setters set for climbers who can climb harder than them51:40 - how to set for a broad skill differential, the Janja problem55:56 - future of routesetting trends1:02:27 - a unique team-based competition climbing format1:05:56 - what competition climbing needs in order to grow in popularity1:07:30 - IFSC was founded with the intention of bringing climbing to the Olympics1:11:45 - a new world cup idea1:14:57 - how to bring more money into climbing?1:18:05 - the takeaway, climbing is not set in stone1:19:55 - where to follow Niki's journey!1:20:55 - outro

A brief description of what to expect from the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast