Ice Ice Beta

Phil Wortmann doesn't look at outrageous projects like most people. It can't be that he took too many hits to the head, because he stopped boxing early, and it's not la la optimism either.Still, for someone to make a 5.13 project on Pike's Peak their first at the grade and to establish what is likely the Lower 48's hardest, longest and most sustained mixed climb requires a little something something. That something something is something Phil thinks others can develop too, by the way.In this episode, we chat about:

If JC Dubeau is known it's somewhat as a dark horse. Search for JC online and you won't find any trip reports or beta spraying, but as a soloist with a selfie stick he has surprisingly good photos on IG for someone who likes to keep a low profile. JC is also an older athlete who doesn't train or project yet he will likely send yours if you let him.

Enni Bertling has seen it all when it comes to climbing in Finland. When she started she was one of the few climbers in the country, then she helped form the Finnish Ice Climbing Team, and is now the Head of the Youth National Team, among other roles too numerous to list but which also includes routesetting, coaching, and occasionally competing when the mood strikes. Still, despite how it sounds, her path to a professional climbing career was anything but straightforward.In this episode, we chat about:

Pedro Guerra-Zúñiga has a fighting spirit — a spirit that especially likes to laugh. Growing up, Pedro expected to get cancer, at some point, probably in his 60s. Fate has a funny disposition, though, so when he was diagnosed with non-Hodgkin lymphoma, Pedro decided to respond on his terms: with humor and a goal of making Team Canada. After all, you never know what can happen. In this episode, we chat about:

Roger Strong made his catch king crab fishing so he could ski and climb the rest of the year. His life was forged by sea and steel, commercial fishing hardening him for both alpinism and captainship.As he says, it was some of the best and worst times.But to continue the metaphor, the metallurgy of life also requires tempering, annealing, and healing too. In this episode, we chat about:

This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you've ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that's what today's conversation is about.We're doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems. Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.

This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you've ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that's what today's conversation is about.We're doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems. Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.

This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you've ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that's what today's conversation is about.We're doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems. Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.

This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you've ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that's what today's conversation is about.We're doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems. Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.

This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you've ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that's what today's conversation is about.We're doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems. Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.

Passion, conviction, obsession. Heart and soul. Words to describe the devoted. Those driven to produce what had never existed before — a crusade to push the sport forward. When Bill Belcourt talks product, you listen. The former head of R&D at Black Diamond, Bill helmed the department during the heydey, when anything was possible and all roads led to BD for product innovation. Chances are, if you've used BD climbing gear in the past 30 years, you've used Bill's work.Now, Bill leads Blue Ice - North America, where the work continues.In this episode, we chat about:

Today, we dive into the mindset of a competitor. Gordon McArthur has been a staple on the World Cup circuit across 15 seasons, including a one-year retirement. We talk about the particular highs and lows of returning to the sport, the story of Storm Giant (the first proposed D16 in the world), and what role ego plays in it all.In particular, our conversation hovers around themes of drive, our relationship to competitiveness, and understanding our true motivations. We also chat about:

Doug Heinrich has just about done it all and seen it all in ice climbing ⛏️ as both a climber and product designer

Eliteclimb makes the lightest ice tools in the world, and it's not even close. It's possible because Jarosław "Jarek" Walewski uses a mix of carbon and kevlar composites, and nothing else—the only metal in his tools are the bolts and picks.The one-man brand has been bucking industry trends for over a decade now, and it's his unique position as an independent craftsman that lets Jarek pursue solutions that the bigger brands ignore.By being attuned to the community and working with some of the world's best, their tools have been used on no oxygen ascents of Lhotse, expeditions to places like K2 and Broad Peak and at the highest-end of drytooling today.In this episode, we chat about:

This episode is all about training for ice climbing, mixed, drytooling and speed.To discuss these diverse disciplines, we're joined by Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules and dive into how they think about and structure their training for their respective specialties. Kevin is a leading roof-climbing drytooler and the first American to send D16, Aneta was last year's World Cup Champion in speed, and Zac is a strong all-around ice and mixed climber who manages to send hard while also working full-time and raising 4 kids. Training for Ice Climbing, Mixed, Drytooling, and SpeedIn this episode, we discuss:

Corey Buhay has made a life out of doing what she loves. That's not to say it's been easy.Known as the go-to reporter for all things drytooling ⛏️, Corey quickly built a career as a freelance journalist regularly contributing to Climbing

I'm sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude

How many of you were inspired to start climbing because of a comic? I'm sure Masato Najakima is not alone, but he is the only person I can say with certainty that that's the case. (And if you're curious, it was Gaku: Minna no Yama (in English, "Peak: Everyone's Mountain")).Anywho, Masato is a leading drytooler in Japan and was one of a contingent from the country who sent “A Line Above the Sky” last year. Masato is a bit of a late bloomer — at 43, he's one of the older athletes on the UIAA World Cup scene — and has made great progress since he started competing in 2016.As one of the elder statesmen in his country, he's trying to grow the sport locally. And despite 5 drytooling gyms in Tokyo — yes, you heard that right — it's not easy… which we dive into in this chat.Along with that, in this episode, we discuss:

Pavel Dobrinskiy is a leading figure within the drytooling community in Moscow and is one of the most prolific route setters on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit

Mixed climbing was always part of the alpinist's bag of tricks

Whether you think you can or you think you can't, you're right, or so goes the pithy expression. But at least in Angelika Rainer's case, it does seem to bear out. During Angelika's 20-year career, she helped set new world standards, becoming the first woman to send D15 ✅ and routinely finishing first or second on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit

What are those funny folks in tights doing on the YouTubez, kicking into the whozimiwuchits and spitting off those metal thingamajigs?If you, like me, have ever had questions about Ice Climbing World Cups, this is your episode of Ice Ice Beta… because today we chat with, Rob Adie, the man responsible for organizing the UIAA World Cup Tour.He's sort of a one-man band. To help paint the picture, last year, Rob managed 12 events across 3 continents featuring over 150 athletes from 28 countries. (And I want to note, that's considered a down year). There's a lot that goes into putting something like that together, obviously, and you can bet your bottom dollar we'll cover it today.In this episode, we chat about a range of topics, including:

Kevin Lindlau is one of the rare birds in drytooling who excels at both comp *and* outdoor climbing. In January, Kevin completed the second ascent of “Aletheia”, rated D16 ✅, becoming only the second person in the world to climb the grade. (There's some nuance here since other routes have been proposed at D16, but this is the first route that has been repeated and the grade corroborated). Anywho, on the comp side, Kevin was the first American to ever make World Cup Finals in Lead in 2019, and he has regularly made Finals since. In this episode, we talk about: 

It's a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he's built a career on that foundation.You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He's spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine Journal, co-founded Alpinist — which Reinhold Messner once called “the greatest climbing magazine in the world” — and recently started a “hardcore history” podcast about the 10th Mountain Division called Ninety-Pound Rucksack.If you haven't heard of it, you might be living under the rock… but since you're listening to a climbing podcast, that very well may be the case. Regardless, it's great and I encourage you to give it a listen.In this episode, we don't talk much about the podcast, instead, we hone in on:How to complicate seemingly simple projects by going deepClues to find the narrative in anything you doWhat can happen when you follow your curiosity Timestamps:05:18 - From New England to the Tetons14:45 - Building community through climbing22:38 - Narrative as a tool for connection and change27:25 - Exploring the awe 34:20 - Diving into the contribution of climbers on the 10th Mountain Division42:28 - How history is written47:56 - Climbing Riva Ridge to understand history Resources and links:To listen to Ninety-Pound Rucksack, head to your favorite podcast platform or learn more about it at christianbeckwith.com. If you love what Christian is doing and want to support longform narrative projects like this, I highly encourage you to become a patron at patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack. Find the rest of the notes on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by Christian.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:That's it for Season 1! If you enjoyed the conversations and want to help us do many more for Season 2, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month). 

What are the things in your life that have infinite complexity upon closer inspection?I'm betting you didn't expect that question on a podcast about ice climbing.But that's Jackson Yip for ya. An atmospheric researcher by training who specializes in cloud-microphysics, Jackson is also a deeply passionate climber and alpinist who has coupled his interests in a myriad of ways.Whether scrabbling through murky datasets or slogging to break trail, Jackson finds beauty in the mundane and labyrinthine.In this wide-ranging conversation, we talk about:Cloud physics and the complexity of turbulenceThe importance of first-hand experienceHow to develop mental modelsWhy we can and need to do better when evaluating ice conditionsThe mechanics of pillar collapseAnd moreHope you enjoy this chat, I certainly did. Timestamps:01:41 - The concept of heat death and its implications04:00 - Having perspective05:37 - The complexity of cloud micro-physics09:15 - Observing and first-hand experience11:30 - Engineering challenges in climate research17:58 - Predicting ice formations20:20 - The tragic consequences of misreading ice conditions23:10 - Mechanics of slip-out pillar collapse28:31 - The importance of patience in climbing and life35:38 - Accessible doesn't mean easy or safe41:13 - The seasons of life42:43 - Supporting socioeconomic equality Resources and links:If you're interested in collaborating on one of the ice climbing models that Jackson mentioned, you can reach him at jackson.yip@utah.edu. To connect with him on Instagram, he's @jp_yip. You can learn more about his research on his website: jpyip.comFind the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by Jackson YipIntro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

It's rare to find American-made climbing companies. The shortlist includes the likes of Metolius, Organic, Misty Mountain, UnParallel, and a handful of rope producers.It's even rarer to find technical apparel made in the U.S., which makes NW Alpine so distinct. And by technical, I mean purpose-built clothing designed for the elements, not adventureleisure masquerading as such.Anywho, the idea for NWA was born out of the 2008 financial crisis. Founded by Bill Amos, a quote-unquote “climber dude” at the time, he wanted to understand what was happening and brushed up on economics. He concluded that basing the economy on financial shenanigans instead of manufacturing wasn't the way to go.So, his solution to one of the worst recessions in the history of the country was to create a pair of pants. At its height, the company employed 75 people and put millions back into the local economy.In this episode, we talk about how NW Alpine is developing innovative apparel (in the true sense of the word), the economic and free trade factors that led to mass offshoring, and how many of your favorite brands are making huge profits off the back of exploited labor.NWA harkens back to an older ethos for climbing companies. I particularly enjoyed this chat and hope you do too. Timestamps:02:00 - Bill's climbing journey 05:57 - Adventures in the Cascades and Alaska20:10 - The birth of Northwest Alpine20:13 - Understanding the economic shift in the U.S.24:41 - The impact of offshoring on the U.S. manufacturing33:01 - Journey to Kachatna: Scaling manufacturing37:37 - Rise and fall of Kachatna Apparel40:59 - Innovation in apparel: The Fortis line and rainproofness post-PFAS50:36 - The reality of how products are made overseas58:03 - The Future of Northwest Alpine Resources and links:Bill is graciously giving away two Black Spider Hoodies for listeners — one men's and one women's. To enter, head to our Instagram @ice_ice_beta to find the details.If you'd like to follow along with what NW Alpine is up to, their Instagram is @nwalpinegear. To check out their products head to nwalpine.com. They have several new lines dropping this year.Here is the video of Sir James Goldsmith predicting the future impact of the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) in an interview with Charlie Rose (which we reference in the episode). And NW Alpine's blog also has a lot of great trip reports from the past 14 years.This is the "contentious" IG post where Bill breaks down how much overseas workers are paid to make expensive outdoor apparel.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by the NW Alpine courtesy of GearJunkieIntro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Today on Ice Ice Beta, we're chatting with Melissa Orzechowski of The Adirondack Queer Ice Fest

This is the first of a new series — the Community Spotlight — which is a way to celebrate everyday folks who are helping to grow the sports of ice climbing and drytooling.You may have seen Jon Blackwood's shipping container project on Instagram (which he is working on with Johnny Korthuis), if you're curious like I was this chat is about what he's up to.For Jon, his journey into drytooling began with a quest for mental healing. The discipline has become more than a tool for therapy though, in his words, “It's a passion, a lifestyle, and a path to personal growth”.As a larger-framed individual, traditional rock climbing presented challenges, but drytooling opened a world of possibilities. The deeper he got, the deeper he got, and he ultimately invested in coaching and built his own training wall. In two years, he went from barely being able to hold onto tools to figure 4ing to competing at the competition level.Through it all, it's been the tight-knit and supportive community that Jon appreciates most. Whether it's cheering each other on during comps or generously sharing knowledge, there's a genuine desire to foster a love for the sport — and Jon is certainly doing his part too.From welcoming people to climb at his home wall, The Nook, to developing a new outdoor drytooling venue, Jon wants to give back to the sport that has already given so much to him. Resources and links:Perhaps drytooling has had a big impact on your own life, and you dig what Jon is up to. If you'd like to support Jon's projects, you can donate through PayPal. His email is spreken@gmail.com. Money will go towards holds and construction materials.You can also follow along with his journey on Instagram @living.forward. Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo provided by the Jon.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Thanks to Forecast Equipment for supporting this episode!Jon uses their tools and has connected with the team on a personal level. That's because they care about their customers — Marty, Zac and Brian focus on creating products for climbers like themselves which led them to develop their do-it-all Nor*easter. The tools handle everything from moderate snow gullies to steep-and-mixy to World Cup comps and they come stock with Krukonogi picks, cheeks, and hammers so you can configure them to fit your needs. To learn more about their products, check them out at forecastequipment.com. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

We're headed across the pond on this episode of Ice Ice Beta. Today, we're chatting with Willis Morris and Oz Miller of the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club. The club has been called the developmental model of the future, a rolling circus, and bonkers by various authorities.But what is the organization, how does it work, and why has it been so successful in just a few short years?A few anecdotes to highlight their success:They are the largest dry-tooling club in the world, with hundreds of members.The GB Youth Ice Climbing Team, who are part of the Club, are one of, if not the, strongest, in the world. Meanwhile, most other national teams have few, if any, youth members.And most importantly — by internal metrics — the psyche is very, very high.With a rapid growth trajectory and big plans, the future is bright. After listening to Willis and Oz, you'll likely agree — they're quite convincing! Resources and links:If you'd like to learn more about the Scottish DTC, their Instagram has all the important links. It is @scottishdrytoolingclub. As Willis mentions in the interview, the 7th and final round of the UIAA Ice Climbing Continental Cup for the season is taking place in Sunderland, UK this Saturday, February 10. Live streaming will be available for the finals. Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo provided by the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire?That's the subject of today's chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.)Surprisingly, Jon's only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter FFAs in that time — the routes range from M8 to M11 and all are on some of the most prominent walls in the state. These include, “Across the Great Divide” (M8 R, 5 pitches, 550′) on Cannon Cliff, “The Resistance” (M10, 5 pitches, 360′) on Mount Washington, and “Cathedral Direct” (5.12b M11 WI5, 7 pitches).In an Alpinist recap describing a few of the climbs, Rick Wilcox, one of the most accomplished mountaineers in the area and a trailblazing climber in his own right, described what Jon is doing as “state-of-the-art as far as difficulty goes” for New England. Listen on to hear about Jon's search for balance, how he trains, and get a great play-by-play of “Cathedral Direct Direct”, a 7-pitch, 5.12b, M11, WI5 route he freed with Chris Saulnier in February of last year.  Resources and links:If you'd like to hire Jon, you can connect with him at @jon_nicolodi on Instagram. Here are a few articles that highlight Jon's other climbs, which we didn't get to in this episode:Alpinist recap of "Across the Great Divide" and "The Resistance"Jon's American Alpine Club write up of "Across the Great Divide"Jon's IG post about "Cathedral Direct Direct"Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Erik Howes.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

I've been dry-tooling more than ice climbing this winter, largely because it's been frustratingly warm in New England. Call this my adaptation strategy — but really, I feel like I'm just getting ahead of the curve since trigger alert: dry-tooling is the future of ice climbing. #provemewrong(please)Not to be all dire, dour and doom and gloom, but globally, climate change is leading to fewer days below 0°C, aka, the planet is warming. (according to an Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report from 2021). Since ice forms below the freezing temp of water, it's not hard to see that the result will be fewer climbable days of ice as a result.So what's an ice climber to do?Today, we chat with Taylor Luneau, an ice climber from Vermont, former Policy Director of the American Alpine Club, and current Conservation Manager at The Wilderness Society. Taylor has spent the bulk of his adult working life in conservation efforts, protecting public land, and now, supporting climate change mitigation strategies through forest management policies.During his time at the AAC, Taylor commissioned a first-of-its-kind study evaluating ice season length for one of the premiere ice climbing destinations in the U.S. — the Mount Washington Valley in New Hampshire. You might have seem the film that came out of this, freeze//thaw, which shares the scientific findings and socioeconomic impact on guides in the area. Definitely worth watching.We talk about the study, how climbers can get involved in responding to climate change, along with mitigation and adaptation strategies in today's episode. Resources and links:If you'd like to connect with Taylor, his Instagram is @taylor.luneau, and his Wilderness Society email is tluneau@tws.org. To learn more about the Mount Washington Valley study, here is the webpage that has “freeze//thaw”, an article by Jimmy Voorhis and Micheal Wejchert, and the full study by Voorhis, McDowell, and Burakowski, et al.The impact of our national forests to mitigate climate change:“Forests in the U.S. remove the equivalent of about 12 percent of annual U.S. fossil fuel emissions or about 206 teragrams of carbon, after accounting for natural emissions, such as wildfire and decomposition. Worldwide, healthy forests absorb 1.1 billion metric tons of carbon per year, the same contained in nearly 54 million tanker trucks worth of gasoline. Biologically rich, continuous networks of public lands play an important role in absorbing climate-changing emissions, sustaining plants and animals, and helping the hardest hit communities adapt to the impacts of a changing climate." SourceNationwide forest plan amendment to conserve old growth: Remember that the scoping period runs through February 2nd. Here are some resources to learn more and get involved:TWS Action Alert on the national amendment to all forest plans to conserve old growthTWS blog explaining what it isFederal Register scoping notice for the national amendment to all forest plans to conserve old growthUSDA Press Release on National Old Growth AmendmentNorthwest Forest Plan (NWFP) Amendment:The comment period wraps up on January 29th. Here are more resources and how to comment:TWS Action Alert on the NWFPTWS Blog explaining what the NWFP is and what's happeningUS Forest Service landing page for NWFP amendmentUSFS comment portal for the NWFP: hereMake sure to get your voice heard!Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Marcus Garcia.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Of course, a big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Kendra Stritch made history by becoming the first American to win a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup medal in December of 2014 — when she took gold on the speed wall in Bozeman, Montana.Since then, Kendra has been a major force in developing dry-tooling and competitive ice climbing in the U.S.: She helped to formalize USA Ice Climbing under the auspices of the American Alpine Club, has organized countless comps around the country, and even was the first importer of speed tools in North America.A competitive athlete since she was 9, Kendra is drawn to the novelty and strategy of new sports ranging from alley cat bike racing to log rolling to kickball. She equally enjoys the camaraderie of fellow competitors, and refers to the ice climbing scene as her World Cup family. Over the past few years, Team USA has been steadily improving on the world stage — in no small part due to dedicated dry-tooling gyms across the country — and Kendra has played a vital role in getting the sport to where it is. We'll talk about the hows and whys in today's episode. Resources and links:If you'd like to bring a dry-tooling comp to your university or local gym, consider hiring Kendra. You can connect with her on Instagram @kendrastritch. To follow along with USA Ice Climbing this World Cup season, their IG handle is @usaiceclimbing_ and their website is usaiceclimbing.org. If you're feeling generous and would like to donate to the team (since the athletes have to pay their own way to events) you can find a donate link on the American Alpine Club.For a fascinating look at how far USA Ice Climbing has come, Corey Buhay, a former national team member, has a great article in Climbing from 2021.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Scott Thompson.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Life doesn't follow a clean and cut narrative arc — unlike the stories we tell. Sure, it might all start and end the same way for folks, but it's the complex, messy middle that makes us, us. One of our tendencies with storytelling is to simplify, which means skimming over a lot of the details. But when we do that we might find the narrative doesn't actually work, it's not really who we are.Luckily, we can rewrite it. Narrative is a choice.In today's episode, we talk with Shane Farver, an adaptive climber, writer, former journalism instructor, and now Director of Marketing & Communications based in Utah. After a climbing gym accident in 2018, Shane found the story he was telling himself — and others — needed a revision. Since then, he has embraced the problem-solving aspect of climbing and pursued the sport he loves while continually adapting his body through techniques and accessories.We talk about what makes ice climbing particularly accessible for adaptive athletes, how to ask “how”, and what it means to belong in the outdoors on your own terms. Resources and links:If you'd like to connect with Shane, his Instagram handle is @sfarver01. He does a lot of work with the Adaptive Climbing program at The Front if you happen to find yourself in Salt Lake City, and he's also just down the street from the new location of The Scratch Pad. This winter, he'll be at a few upcoming ice fests.Paradox Sports is the leader in the adaptive climbing space and definitely worth checking out.For more stories with adaptive ice climbers, here is a podcast interview with Kimber Cross and here is a recent video featuring Mo Beck.If you'd like to go out with an adaptive ice climbing guide, consider Santi Vega, a full-time mountain guide in the Wasatch and Uinta mountains of Utah.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Maureen Beck.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice: Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

In today's episode with Tom Beirne, we talk about the psychology of performance and the ethics of developing a new dry-tooling crag.Tom doesn't love labels — and definitely don't call him the dry-tooling guy — but to help paint a picture he's a mixed climber from Seattle who especially enjoys questing, runs The Barn, a dry-tooling gym, helped to develop Wayne's World, a dry-tooling crag, and is a former high-level collegiate athlete and World Cup competitor… in dry-tooling.Through all of his experiences he's been fascinated by the psychology of learning, training and performance — especially as it relates to exploring choss piles or competing. As Tom quotes in our chat, “you don't rise to your level of expectation, but fall to your level of training”. Interested in how to raise your own level of training and rise to the occasion? Listen on. Resources and links:Want to climb at The Barn and train with Tom? You can check out their schedule and upcoming events here.In the area and looking to climb at Wayne's World? This is the Mountain Project page. And here is an article with both Wayne and Kyle talking more about the development.Ready to dive into your own motivations and psychology when it comes to climbing? Tom was greatly influenced by Arno Ilgner's "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training For Climbers".Lastly, a big thanks to Kyle for offering a few Ice Screw Cannons for this episode's giveaway. To learn more about his speciality climbing gear, including ultralight backpacks, aid ladders, and portaledge system, head to highmtngear.com.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Tom would like to thank his partner, Renai, for her support spanning many adventures.  Sponsors:A big thanks to our sponsors for supporting this show!Blue Ice: Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. NW Alpine: There aren't many companies that make climbing-specific apparel in the U.S., but NW Alpine does, and have been since 2010. They started with simple principles: to create functional and durable clothing for people who get after it in the alpine. Today, their Black Spider is a lightweight, grid fleece hoody for moving fast in the mountains while their Fortis line is made from fabric spun with ultra high molecular weight polyethylene fibers so you can tackle project after project after project. Learn more about their products at nwalpine.com.And thank you to Kyle Willis of High MTN Gear for donating Ice Screw Cannons to give away! Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

It takes a village to raise an ice festival, and for Liz Sahagún and her co-organizers, it's all hands on deck for the All In Ice Fest — which will take place from January 5th to the 7th of 2024. Entering their third year, the mission of the fest is to create a space where folks from historically marginalized communities can simply have fun ice climbing without having to feel like they're checking a box that defines their identity. To help make ice climbing more accessible, Liz, Claire, Mari, Christina, Rosie, and the rest of the team started All In to help reduce barriers to the sport — they do this by offering low-cost clinics and programs to develop as guides, cater to people of all physical abilities, and fostering a culture where folks can simply show up and feel welcome.Listen on to hear how Liz first fell in love with the mountains, her Journey to 30 ice climbing road trip, and how she's developed her self-care toolbox. Resources and links:If you're interested in attending or volunteering, you can register at allinicefest.com. And if you'd like to support the organization, you can donate here.Want to learn more about what affinity spaces are and why they are important? The AMGA helps explain in an article by Monserrat Alvarez.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Cover photo by Louis Arevalo.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).If you're interested in attending or volunteering, you can register at allinicefest.com. And if you'd like to support the organization, you can donate here. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

What goes into making an ice axe? Of course there is technical know-how, design, and testing, but for Marty Theriault, it was more like an act of therapy. And a way to connect with friends.Marty started Forecast Equipment after he was medically released from the Canadian military for PTSD. He'd been percolating on the idea of a new tool and finally had the time – to heal and to create. He wanted a tool that could do it all, and he drew upon decades of familiarity with different axes and uncompromising principles for certain features. How did it come together?  Listen on to find out. Resources and links:Marty and the Forecast team are offering veterans and active duty military a 10% discount through January. To get the code, contact the company at sales@forecastequipment.com.You can check out the Nor*easter and the rest of the Forecast lineup on their website: forecastequipment.com.If you are struggling with PTSD and are seeking help, know that you are not alone and there are resources. Consider talking with the Veterans Crisis Line to get support. You don't have to be enrolled in VA benefits or health care to call.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we'll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers.

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we'll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers.

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we'll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers.

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we'll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers.

Introducing the Meet the Maker series. Each day this week we'll be releasing a mini episode with an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers.

Sometimes opportunities arise which push you outside your comfort zone.For Kelsey Rex, an out of the blue invitation turned a next year trip to Alaska into "we're leaving in two months". That accelerated timeline required a Matrix-like download of expedition planning and put Kelsey in her sweet spot as a lover of meticulous spreadsheets. It also meant confronting her tendency towards, as she puts it, "conservative progression plans" — and perhaps, even her concept of what she's capable of. Resources and links:This is the article by Bayard Russell that Kelsey mentions, which supplemented her own gear list spreadsheet: How To Remember Everything: An Exhaustive Alaska Expedition Packing List.You can read Kelsey's 5-part recap of the trip on Instagram. Here is part 1.If you'd like to follow Kelsey on Instagram, you can find her at @kelsey_rex. This winter, Kelsey will be at the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, Smuggs Ice Bash, and Michigan Ice Fest, and if you'd like to try and book a day out with her, she guides with Cathedral Mountain Guides.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Cover photo provided by Kelsey.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Thanks so much to Blue Ice for sponsoring this episode (and Kelsey)!Blue Ice began in 2008 at the base of Mont Blanc with the idea of designing products that went back to the basics. That's led them to focus on functional, ultralight gear that just works. In their words, "we get to the point with a subtle blend of purism and daring." Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Cogne is known as one of the ice epicenters in Europe. Located near the base of the Gran Paradiso, the only 4,000 meter peak in Italy, the Cogne Valley boasts over 400 ice climbs and many more mixed and dry-tooling lines. Consistency and accessibility are the name of the game: The microclimate and terrain means ice is reliable year-in-year-out and you can often start your approach to climbs right from your front door.Matthias Scherer is lucky to have called the area home for the past 20 years...  Resources and links:Matthias has climbed over 1,000 frozen waterfalls, and you can see his top 100 list here. To follow along with his adventures, check him out on Instagram @matthiasscherer.Want to join for the Cogne Ice Opening? It runs from December 14-17 and you find find all the details on their website: cogneiceopening.netFind the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by Matthias.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Stas Beskin is known for soloing big bold climbs, such as Rainbow Serpent and Fearful Symmetry, two of the most iconic WI6s in the Canadian Rockies.It's one thing to solo big flows, it's another to do it on freestanding pillars about as wide as your shoulders. But he does that too. And he does so without swinging his tools.Stas' conception of ice climbing revolves around displacing as little ice as possible. It's an adaptive strategy that means different things in different situations, but it's always about fitting one's body and style to the ice in front of you – it's about being attuned to the environment and trying to fit it, not the other way around... Resources and links:Stas is a rock and ice climbing guide, specializing in multi-pitches. If you'd like to book a day out with Stas, you can connect with him at wildice.ca.For a bit more about Stas, Ian Welsted, an ACMG alpine guide, wrote a great profile in the October/November 2022 issue of Gripped.In this video, Stas shares techniques for scratching and climbing thin pillars. And here is an article (one of many) about hard mixed routes he is putting up.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Original photo used in cover image by Caro Ouellet (@ouellet.caro).Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

This week we chat with Ryan McCauley, a member of the USA Ice Climbing Team. Ryan has had a rapid rise, fitting for her speciality in speed.In fact, within two years of starting to dry-tool, Ryan went from falling off the second hold of rec team tryouts to finishing 6th overall in Women's Speed Climbing during last year's World Cups.According to Ryan, this wouldn't have been possible just a few years ago...  Resources and links:You can connect with Ryan about coaching for dry-tooling on Instagram @ryane_mccauley and for professional coaching you can reach out to her on Linkedin at linkedin.com/in/ryan-mccauley.In the episode, you'll hear us reference an article by Corey Buhay about competition ice climbing in Russia, which you can find here. Ryan also wrote an article about her own experience during last year's World Cup season (also discussed in the episode).If you'd like to donate to the USA Ice Climbing Team here is the link and you can learn more about The Ice Coop here. Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Original photo used in cover image by Robert Hendriksen (@thatcrazydutchguy).Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Today we're talking about the Beartooth Mountains in Montana, which have a history of minimal spray when it comes to ice climbing. So of course that's what we are going to do...Let's start with why should you go: One, if you're looking for first ascents or a first ascent-like day out, the Beartooths provide. Two, it's the largest uninterrupted landmass above 10,000 feet (or 3,000m) in the U.S., outside of Alaska. Three, there is not a single path to any climbing objective.In other words, if you're looking for a challenge, it's easy to find one. What's not easy to find, though, is info.That's where Akio Joy and Anju Samuelson come in...  Resources and links:Learn more about the trips Aku and Anju talked about in this episode on their website: beartoothguides.comYou can connect with them on Instagram @beartoothmountainguides where they also share condition reports during the season. And here are Anju's "Soul Back Up Book" blog posts for those who are curious.This is the Gripped article about Shooting Gallery, a three pitch mixed route that Aaron Mulkey, Dane Steadman and Natalie Afonina climbed on September 10, 2020. And this is another route by Aaron Mulkey, Last Call, a 2,000 foot, 13 pitch mixed line that he sent with Tanner Callender and Chris Guyer in 2014, which gives you an idea of the type of adventure you can have in the Beartooths.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Original photos used in cover image courtesy of Beartooth Mountain Guides.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!) Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Today is about all things training for dry-tooling with Eli Ellis.Eli is a dry-tooler, coach, and professional slackliner who specializes in highlinemo, a discipline that combines slacklining at high altitudes and mountaineering. For those familiar with the conjunction "skimo", you'll see where "highlinemo" comes from.To establish ever higher lines, Eli began ice climbing and dry-tooling. Naturally he got hooked. And within two years he was climbing M10. In this episode, we dive into Eli's training that allowed him to progress so quickly, which in part, starts with him climbing, essentially, since childhood. But there's more to it... Resources and links:Get a peak into the "First Across" of Hal Latte, Eli's highline at 3,290m in the Colorado Rockies. Here he is sending Rambo II (D10-) in Merano, Italy. And this is a photo of his slackline set up of The Seventh Fang