A riveting insider's look at the world of fine wine. Telling the stories of the people and the places that shape the world’s most compelling finds. John Szabo, Master Sommelier and Sara d’Amato, a jack of all wine trades, get to the root of the vine.
in this episode, we're going to take a look behind the scenes of one of the wine and spirits industry's most important trade fairs: Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris. We'll be talking to Rodolphe Lameyse, who is the CEO of Vinexposium, the company that runs Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris – and spoiler alert: these are two names for the same show – Rodolphe will explain why the trade fair has a dual name and he will be discussing some of the issues that are most pertinent to the world of wine today, the challenges and opportunities, and the relevance of trade fairs in a digital world. We'll also get a better understanding of how the trade fair operates and why it should matter to you, no matter what side of the wine trade you are on, should you chose to travel this coming February 12th-14th to the City of Lights (. . . fashion, love, fine wine & fine food). Wine Paris strives to include wine and spirits from the world over, and not just all the "classic regions", this year, you'll find exhibitors from Greece, China, Mexico, Lebanon, the UK, and even spirits from Canada. In addition, the show also promises to address some of our industry's most challenging problems such as climate change, a shift in consumer demand and geo-political conflicts amidst economic and sales issues through a series of classes and forums.The organizers are anticipating an increase of up to 72% in international exhibitors with 50 countries represented. Floor space has been expanded by 25% to accommodate the 3,900 exhibitors, with also a significant increase for spirits, craft drinks, no/low, beer and cider producers. And you can count on 100% of France's wine regions to be under one roof, as Vinexposium reports. For more information, on how to combine Valentine's Day with your career in wine, visit https://wineparis-vinexpo.com.This episode was produced in partnership with Vinexposium.
The Wine Thieves are back with part two of a series on the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi of Chianti Classico (or UGAs) the recently announced additional geographic units that will begin appearing on labels of the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione category as of this year. Joining us again are Caterina Mori, Director of Communications for the Chianti Classico Consorzio, and the "Map Man" Alessandro Masnaghetti who literally drew up the map of the 11 new UGS that we'll be covering in deep detail in this episode. If you haven't already listened to part one, go back to the previous episode as it will be critical to your understanding of this instalment. Geology, and the soils derived from these underlying rocks formed an important basis for Masnaghetti's map-making work. To begin the episode, John and Sara provide a brief recap of Tuscan geology and terminology you'll encounter travelling through the 11 UGAs, along with what can be expected from the wines grown on each of the main "geological units", marine and continental, and the specific soil types that fall under each. Masgnaghetti discusses how the various soil types translate into to different organoleptic wine profiles in each UGA, from the macigno, pietraforte, albarese and Formazione di Sillano of the marine formations, to the continental units that include the gravelly-alluvial soils of San Casciano in the north and the lacustrine clay soils typical of the western part of the Castellina UGA. The UGA tour proceeds clockwise, starting from San Casciano in the northwest corner of the Chianti Classico area, continuing through Greve, Montefiorale, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Valgliagli, and finally San Donato in Poggio.Special thanks to our WineAlign colleague and Chianti Classico ambassador Michael Godel, who kindly chose a song to match the feel and vibe of each of the 11 UGAs for this episode. Acquire some bottles, hit play on the UGA playlist, and taste your way through this historic territory.Michael Godel's Chianti Classico "UGA Soundtrack"1. San Casciano - Feeling Gravity's Pull, R.E.M.2. Greve - Red Eyes, The War on Drugs 3. Lamole - Herbal Scent, Tom Browne4. Montefioralle - More than a Feeling, Boston5. Panzano - Fantasy, Earth, Wind & Fire6. Radda - People Get Ready, Curtis Mayfield7. Gaiole - Fresh, Kool & The Gang8. Castelnuovo Berardenga - Into the Great Wide Open, Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers9. Vagliagli – Gustosità, Nino Rapicavoli 10. Castellina - Ahead by a Century, The Tragically Hip11. San Donato in Poggio - Compte à Rebour Adagio, Georges Delerue This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013.
In part one of this two-part episode, the Thieves will go behind the scenes in Chianti Classico to discover the thought process and philosophy behind the UGAs and some techniques used to create the Atlas and the detailed maps therein. In this and the following episode, we'll be taking a deep dive into the recently approved “added geographic units” of the Chianti Classico region in Tuscany, Italy, which were officially signed into law this past July 2023.Known in Italian as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi, or simply “UGAs” to English-speaking insiders, these geographic units divide the rather large Chianti Classico denomination into 11 smaller sub-areas that sometimes, but not always, follow historical communal boundaries, and broadly group these sangiovese-based wines together into more coherent style categories. This is especially relevant given the significant variability of physical and human factors that shape and mould Chianti Classico into so many delicious expressions.Joining the discussion are Caterina Mori, director of Communication for the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico , along with another important guest who will be familiar to Wine Thieves listeners, Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Map Man Masnaghetti. Alessandro joined us for one of our three episodes devoted to the wines of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano also in Tuscany (see episode 22 from season 1). Masnaghetti is the director and editor of Enogea, an independent Italian wine newsletter founded in 1997 that continues the work of the late great Luigi Veronelli, a legendary Italian wine writer who launched the first independent Italian wine newsletter known as Ex Vinis back in the 1970s with the aim of recognizing the deserving work of smaller Italian wineries, Alessandro worked with Veronelli, and brought map-making skills to the table to add another dimension to the modern Italian wine narrative. Fast forward to 2023, and Masnaghetti has created dozens of detailed maps of wine regions, mostly around Italy but also a few outside, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella and Amarone, Vino Nobile, and even Bordeaux. But his latest magnum opus, and the one most relevant to our two episodes, is the incredibly detailed Atlas of Chianti Classico. This atlas and its series of detailed maps and background geological information, or as Masnaghetti himself puts it, “geo-viticultural” information – that is the aspects of geology most relevant to grapegrowing, was commissioned by the Chianti Classico Consorzio, with the main aim of establishing the boundaries for the 11 new UGAs. Masnaghetti's work is an impressive tome that should be on every wine lover's shelf, and indeed should be in your hands right now to follow along on these two episodes. You can get yourself a copy at enogea.it. The maps contained within the atlas show geology, topography, vineyard boundaries, estates, and much much more. In the previous episode we spoke with Giovanni Manetti, current president of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and owner of the Fontodi estate in Panzano. Signore Manetti shared loads of valuable information with us on the history and the current status of Chianti Classico, and we touched upon the introduction of these UGAs and what it means to both producers and wine drinkers around the world. So be sure to have a listen to that episode, if you haven't already, to set the stage for these next two episodes. Cin Cin! This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013.
The first of a three-part journey into Chianti Classico. in this episode we look at the past, present and future of the denominazione with our special guest, Giovanni Manetti, Chariman of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and proprietor of the venerated Fontodi estate in Panzano. This is Manetti's second term as the Chairman , where he has been a driving force of innovation and evolution, helping to re-establish Chianti Classico as one of Italy's, and the world's, leading quality wine-producing regions. The creation of the Gran Selezione category at the top of the quality pyramid, as well the introduction of UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi), added geographic mentions within the greater Chianti Classico territory, are just two of the invigorating projects which Manetti has championed and pushed through.The Thieves deliver the latest news regarding Gran Selezione regulations and the new UGAs, but focus first on the history of the region from Etruscan settlements in the 8th century BC, to the legend of the gallo nero, the mezzadria sharecropping system that shaped Chianti Classico as we know it today, Barone Ricasoli's 19th century 'recipe' for Chianti, the 1970s crisis (fiasco?), and the renaissance of quality wine. There is much to unpack in this multi-faceted region, so important and recognizable to wine lovers around the world.A happy 307th birthday to Chianti Classico, an anniversary for which we give thanks to the Grand Duke of Tuscany and patron to the arts, Cosimo dei' Medici III, who famously demarcated the wine region of Chianti in 1716 and created the first legal appellation of origin for wine in the world. Tuscan aficionados won't want to miss this episode that reveals how Chianti Classico's past has set the stage for its modern renaissance. This episode has been produced in partnership with the Chianti Classico Consorzio and financed according to EU regulation 1308/2013.
The Thieves embark on a South African “wine safari” with Pieter Walser of Blank Bottle Wines based in Sommerset West near Stellenbosch, one of the most unusual and innovative wine businesses anywhere, and Peter-Allan Finlayson of Crystallum Wines and Gabrielskloof in the Bot River region. Finlayson is a third generation winemaker and the son of the man who pioneered Pinot Noir winemaking in the Hemel-en-Aarde region, Peter Finlayson, the first winemaker at Hamilton Russell and the founder of Bouchard Finlayson.You'll get a clear sense of the fun, irreverent, and innovative nature of the SA wine industry. There's an entire generation currently scouring the Cape for interesting vineyards and old quirky varieties and crafting a range of exciting wines with little winemaking intervention. These mavericks are playing a vital role in keeping old vines in the ground and supporting small farmers, all the while breathing fresh life into this centuries-old industry and turning the establishment upside down. These radicals of the industry run parallel to the more storied, traditional wine farms of South Africa, some of which have been producing wine for over three centuries, creating one of the most dynamic wine scenes on the planet. In the interview with Peter Allan and Pieter, John & Sara get to the heart of how this multi-faceted industry arose. They'll discuss the role of the KWV, the cooperative founded in 1918, which helped unite winegrowers during a challenging period, to its current state as a cooperative company structure. They'll discover how a kind of exploratory, guerilla-style winemaking took hold and why a good sub-section of the South African wine industry seems to be hell-bent on dispensing with so many of the wine world's traditions. This spirit is exemplified by the Zoo Cru, a loose association of likeminded (similarly manic?) winemakers of which Peter-Allan Finlayson is a founding member,, as well as other “splinter” groups like the Swartland Revolution, who take fun and wine very seriously, but themselves, not so much. And f you've ever thought about how to go about setting up a wine business, you'll want to strap yourself in for this exploration of the wilder side of the South African wine industry. This episode was produced in collaboration with Wines of South Africa.
This episode takes a wide-ranging look at biodynamic agriculture, which, perhaps not so coincidentally, seems to be the foundational philosophy underlying a disproportionately large percentage of the world's best wines. The Thieves speak with two prominent Californian practitioners of biodynamics to discuss several aspects of this philosophy-cum-practical manifesto, first developed by Austrian-born philosopher and social reformer Rudolf Steiner, who lived from 1861-1925. Show guests Rodrigo Soto, Chilean-born viticulturist now general manager at Augustín Huneeus's flagship Napa Valley estate, Quintessa, and John Hamel, the second generation at Hamel Family Wines across the Mayacamas Mountains in Sonoma discuss the practical, mystical and controversial aspects of biodynamic wine production . Both are fervent believers in the power of biodynamic agriculture, and above all, have an unshakeable faith in the power of nature to deliver something in the glass of greater interest than what humankind on its own could offer. Listen on for a brief overview of biodynamics, how science is catching up to the sometimes fantastical claims, the value of certification, the dark side of Steiner's beliefs and finding balance in nature.
Originally aired November 2022: The Thieves are back in Europe to explore the wealth of indigenous grape varieties and stunning stunning old vineyards found in Portugal. Exactly how this sliver of the Iberian peninsula has been able to safeguard traditions, vineyards and distinctive regional character is what Sara and John are out to learn in this special reissue episode. They have a hunch that large-volume producers have a role to play, and invite three important guests to investigate: Martim Guedes, the Co-CEO of Aveleda (along with Antonio Guedes). Martim's great-great grandfather Manoel Pedro Guedes founded Quinta da Aveleda in the Minho region 150 years ago, helping the wines of Vinho Verde achieve international recognition . The company has since expanded to the Douro, Bairrada and Algarve, and exports to more than 70 countries.Luís Almada is an Executive Board Member of Casa Santos Lima, a family owned company that makes wine in Lisboa, Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and the Douro, exporting 90% of its total production to more than 50 countries on 5 continents. Casa Santos Lima is It is the largest single producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa (responsible for the production of more than 50% of all the certified wine in the Lisboa region) and DOC Alenquer.Pedro da Fonseca is managing partner of Vicente Leite Faria in the Douro Valley, drawing on fruit from estate vineyards as well as hundreds of small growers that together account for over 500 hectares of vineyards. Born in Portugal but raised in Canada, Pedro studied at York University in Toronto before earning a Master's degree from Harvard, and he's currently a PhD candidate at the London Metropolitan University. Pedro has a sincere love for wines of his mother country and their proliferation abroad. We delve into topics such as the incentivization of small growers by large producers, land conservation, and the preservation and re-propagation of rare, indigenous grapes. Although other countries such as the Republic of Georgia, Greece, and Italy can also boast many indigenous grapes, Portugal claims the highest density, some 250 varieties across an area six times smaller than France (551,500 km² vs. 92,120 km²). But many are on the verge of extinction. We'll find out what large wine companies are doing to help protect and preserve grape varieties that are at risk such as Azal, Codega do Larinho, Sousao, Tinta Grossa, and Jampal, among many others. Climate change has also affected Portugal harder than many wine regions, pushing Portuguese growers to become global leaders in responding to the climate threat. You'll find out what environmental initiatives these leading brands have undertaken, and how have these practices have had an impact on the industry at large.Join John and Sara for an invigorating discussion on the role of leading brands safeguarding land, grapes and traditions in Portugal. Sponsored by ViniPortugal.
We're kicking off 2023 and season three of the podcast with a look at one of the hottest wine trends down under: cool and fresh red wines from Australia. Once famous, and still well-known for robust, full-bodied, sunshine-filled jammy reds, today there's serious momentum gathering, and already flowing, for lighter styles of red, fresher, less oaky, with lower alcohol and higher drinkability. So, what is driving this trend? What should we be looking for, and where? The Thieves look to cool geography, viticultural methods and changing trends for answers with their guests Mac Forbes and Sam Berketa. Mac Forbes established Mac Forbes Wines in 2004, with the aim of to better understanding and connecting with his native region. He credits the knowledge of the local Indigenous community who have lived and farmed this region for over 50,000 years as having helped him on his journey to become one of the most celebrated producers in the Yarra. Forbes specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay from vineyards across the Yarra Valley. Forbes also makes “village level” cuvées in the Burgundian fashion representing the various sub-regions of the Yarra, as well as the region-wide Yarra Valley offerings. The playground of exploration comes under the Experimental Batch range. Sam Berketa is head winemaker at Alpha Box & Dice based in the McLaren Vale but has previously worked in the Yarra Valley, the Mornington Peninsula, Germany's Rheinhessen, in Barolo, Italy, as well as in Monterey in California applying his global knowledge to local production . Since its beginning in 2008, AB&D has become a champion of South Australia's alternative – particularly Mediterranean – varieties, exhibiting innovation at every step of the process by bending traditional winemaking norms.Join John and Sara as they toast to the fresh, innovative reds produced in Australia's cooler reaches.For extra credit, revisit Episode 9 of Season 2, on the refreshing white wines of Australia, where we learn about the growing trend for lighter whites as well from guests Louisa Rose of Yalumba and Pewsey Vale (or rather Hill-Smith Family Vineyards as they're known now), and Con-Greg Grigoriou, winemaker and partner at the Delinquente Wine Co. based in Riverland, as we have a similar discussion with them.*This episode was produced in partnership with Wine Australia.
With a broad, international perspective, award-winning author, Decanter columnist and broadcaster, Andrew Jefford shares his thoughts on Ontario Chardonnay after his role as a keynote speaker at this year's i4C (International Cool Climate Celebration) in Niagara, Ontario. Join John & Sara as they listen in to Jefford's consequential speech which connects the dynamic aspects of wine to music. Jefford shares his understanding of how a winemaker can bring a sense of place most memorably into being, without the hindsight of a long tradition. In the case of Ontario, Jefford tells us why chardonnay is most apt in clearly revealing a sense of North: "the great brooding icy masses of water; the sticky chaos of moraine and till; the implacable grey of winter; the green frenzy of summer." If a region's uniqueness can be expressed through the instrument of a grape variety, the group discusses the importance of "winemakers who are listening for singularities of landscape and topographical aptitude." But is chardonnay, like the cherished piano, overused and taken for granted? All this and more in this unforgettable episode of The Wine Thieves.
The Thieves are back in Europe with a look at the wealth of great value wines available in Portugal. A country that has been able to preserve and protect a great number of indigenous grape varieties, Portugal is home to a wealth of stunning old vineyard sites owned by a multitude of small growers. How safeguarding traditions, vineyards and distinctive regional character is achieved, is what Sara and John would like to know more about but they have a hunch that large-volume producers have a role to play.In this episode, they delve into topics such as the incentivization of growers from large producers, as well the preservation of land under vine in Portugal, which has been on a steady decline since 2007, like much of Europe. Within the framework of land conservation, they will also discuss the preservation of rare and indigenous grape varieties in Portugal. There are a few countries in the world, such as the Republic of Georgia, Greece, Italy and Portugal where very rare indigenous wine grapes are found. In fact, Portugal has a surface area six times smaller than France (551,500 km²), has over 250 varieties. This gives Portugal (92,120 km²) the highest density of indigenous wine grapes in the world, and many are on the verge of extinction. We'll find out what large wine companies can do to help protect and preserve grape varieties that are at risk such as Azal, Codega do Larinho, Sousao, Tinta Grossa, and the uber rare Jampal. Also up for discussion is how climate change has affected large scale grape farming in Portugal. Hit harder than most wine regions by rising temperatures and drought, Portugal is emerging as a global leader in responding to the climate threat. You'll find out what, if any environmental initiatives guests of leading brands use and how have these practices had an impact on the growers they employ or other wineries in the region. AND finally, we'll hear about the evolution of export practices.Joining the discussion is Martim Guedes, the Co-CEO of Aveleda (along with Antonio Guedes). Martim's great-great grandfather Manoel Pedro Guedes founded Quinta da Aveleda 150 years ago. Manoel was a pioneer in the region helping the wines of Vinho Verde to achieve international recognition and brought viticultural savoir-faire from Bordeaux to the region helping to improve quality production. The company has since expanded its presence outside of Minho to Douro, Bairrada and Algarve and exports to more than 70 countries. The Thieves are also pleased to welcome Luís Almada to the program who is the Executive Board Member of Casa Santos Lima and Vicente Leite Faria. Luís has a Masters of Wine Business from the University of Adelaide and then began working with Casa Santos Lima 9 years ago. Casa Santos Lima is a family owned company who makes wine in Lisboa, Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and the Douro, exporting 90% of its total production to more than 50 countries in all 5 continents. It is the largest single producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa (responsible for the production of more than 50% of all the certified wine in the Lisboa region) and DOC Alenquer. Chiming in as well is Pedro da Fonseca, the managing partner of Vicente Leite Faria in the Douro. Born in Portugal but grew up in Canada, Pedro studied in Toronto at York University before receiving is Master's degree from Harvard and is currently a PhD candidate at the London Metropolitan University. Pedro has a sincere love for wines of his mother country and its proliferation abroad. Join John and Sara for an invigorating discussion on the role of leading brands safeguarding land, grapes and tradition in Portugal. This episode is made in partnership with ViniPortugal.
The Wine Thieves are finally back with a new episode, perfect for the late summer, at least in the northern hemisphere, in which we share some cool news and information on the white wines of Australia. Many picture Australia as a warm country with beautiful beaches and great surfing, well suited to heat-loving red grapes like grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre (aka mataro) that make up the classic GSM blend, and rightfully so. But this episode looks at some lesser-know, future classic white wines. John and Sara steer clear of chardonnay, despite the many excellent examples, and concentrate instead on the new wave of eclectic and lively whites emerging across the country. Our special guests are Con-Greg Grigoriou, winemaker and partner at the Delinquente Wine Co. based in Riverland, and the legendary Louisa Rose, head winemaker for Hill-Smith Family Vineyards, which includes includes Pewsey Vale, and, most famously, Yalumba. Grigoriou has set Deliquente apart from much of the bulk production the Riverland region is better known for, by pushing boundaries and making non-conformist wines in every sense of the word from unconventional varieties like arinto, malvasia bianco, fiano, bianco d'alessano, and vermentino. Pewsey Vale, on the other hand, put Eden Valley on the world map for riesling. At the same time, Louisa has created an identity for viognier at Yalumba, the first southern hemisphere winery to produce wine from the variety in a style that Rose has been perfecting it for the last twenty years.Hot or not, wherever you may be listening in the world, this episode will leave you craving a glass of refreshing Australian white wine.
In today's episode: how cataloguing old vines in South Africa has raised standards for fair employment, and sustainable farming and may just prove the key to solving the problem of the country's most prevalent vine virus. We continue investigating the topic of old vines, this time from a different perspective, as we look to the Certified Heritage Vineyards of South Africa. We hope you've built up an appetite for the subject after last week's head-turning conversation with the South Australian duo of Dr. Dylan Griggs, the man who wrote the Ph.D. thesis on old vines after an extensive study of the old vines of the Barossa Valley, and Prue Henschke, viticulturist for the renowned Henschke winery, that produces two of the oldest single vineyard wines in Australia today.We know that the term “old vines” helps to sell wine. Trade and well-informed consumers, tend to believe that old vines = better wine. But is that really true? Listen to last week's episode to find out more about that topic but, spoiler alert, a more accurate expression would be “old vines make different wines”. The Thieves have come to think that those differences are worth preserving and protecting and thus will be discussing a movement in South Africa whose core mission is to do just that - preserve and protect old vines. Winery members of what is known as the “Old Vine Project” can now put a Certified Heritage Vineyards seal on bottles - the threshold for old is 35 years, which is not quite as arbitrary a number as you might think and the seal includes the date of the original planting of each of these old vineyards – a guarantee of authenticity. Our guests on the program include former lawyer-turned-viticulturist Rosa Kruger who is the founder of the small, privately funded group of crusaders known as “The Old Vines Project”. Kruger is the great-great-granddaughter of Paul Kruger, President of South Africa from 1883-1900, and the one for whom the famous Kruger national park is named. During her travels and tastings around the wine world, Kruger arrived at the realization that old vines not only had advantages on a viticultural level, but also produced better, or at least distinctively, wine. Rosa's colleague and counterpart at the OVP, Andre Morgenthal, joins the round table. André has lectured at the Cape Wine Academy and has worked several vintages at Domaine Bertagna in Vougeot, Burgundy and made wine on a small Stellenbosch property, Clos du Ciel. In 2001, he joined Wines of South Africa (WOSA) as Communications Manager with a focus on media relations but in 2016 he resigned from WOSA to start his own business, among other ventures assisting Rosa Kruger with the Old Vine Project (OVP). Also joining the conversation is Andrew Harris of DGB, one of the largest South African producers and distributors of wine and spirits. DGB has developed and built some of the most successful wine brands in South Africa, including Boschendal, Franschhoek Cellars and Bellingham, as well as new projects through Artisanal Brands such as The Old Road Wine Co. and Fryer's Cove, which DGB acquired last year. DGB is an important member of the Old Vine Project and manages more old vineyards than any other group in SA.Find yourself a glass of old vines chenin blanc and join the conversation!
Today's episode takes on the important and fascinating subject of old vineyards, some extremely old, how they got so old, how they perform and the wines they produce. Old Vines: do they produce better wine than young vines? The Wine Thieves will ask you to suspend your beliefs about old vines and the wines they produce. The conversation might very well reset your beliefs, and reshape them. Guests to the round table are two of the most qualified people to discuss the subject and are both in South Australia. The Thieves sit down with Dr. Dylan Grigg, whose doctorate philosophy, submitted to the University of Adelaide, is entitled “An investigation into the effect of grapevine age on vine performance, and grape and wine composition”. Grigg studied five shiraz vineyards in the Barossa with genetically related ‘young' and ‘old' plantings in close proximity. A study uniquely suited to South Australia The average age difference between these adjacent young and old blocks was an astonishing 97 years. To date, this represents the greatest spread of extreme of vine ages to be subjected to scientific scrutiny.John and Sara also welcome Prue Henschke, viticulturist for the renowned Henschke winery, overseeing 100ha of vines in the Eden Valley, Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills, including two of Australia's most iconic vineyards, Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone. These are arguably the two oldest single vineyard wines produced in Australia today that tell the wine story of the country. The Barossa Valley in South Australia is home to some of the world's oldest producing vineyards, including some of the oldest producing vines on the planet. Phylloxera, a pest dubbed the vastatrix, or the devastator, substantially decimated European vineyards in the latter half of the 19th century and has also been present in Australia since 1877. Yet, thanks to the country's strict quarantine policy, it has remained very isolated and, to date, has not been reported in South Australia. Thus, South Australia, and the Barossa Valley, in particular, is rather unique in the world with large areas of surviving pre-phylloxera vines, some with continual production that dates back 180 years. South Australians, and The Barossa Valley as a region, have been proactive in marketing their old vines. In 2009 the ‘old vine charter' was instituted to register vineyards by age, so that older vine could be both preserved and promoted. The charter provides a guide for producers when communicating the exclusivity that the vine age presents in relation to wine production, and a yardstick for consumers seeking out the produce of these ancient vines. As some background fodder for you - the charter classifies vineyards into 4 age categories that include the BAROSSA OLD VINE (equal to or greater than 35 years of age), a BAROSSA SURVIVOR VINE (at least 70 years of age), a BAROSSA CENTENARIAN VINE (100 years old or more) and a BAROSSA ANCESTOR VINE (125 years or more).With a glass of fine shiraz in hand, Join the Wine Thieves for this perspective-changing discussion about what it means to be old.
Who doesn't love Beaujolais? This in-depth episode is all about this picturesque, hilly region and its geological and stylistic diversity. Recent cataloguing of the Beaujolais soils helped bring to light over 300 soil profiles that have been analyzed and described by geologists in tandem with growers, underscoring that diversity (be sure to check out the soil map, published on beaujolais.com.)The Thieves welcome Mee Goddard to the round table, one of the newer voices in Beaujolais, who launched her Domaine in 2013 with three special bottlings of Morgon: Corcelette, Grand Cras, and Côte du Py. She focuses on “vins de garde”, wines meant to age, blending carbonic and non-carbonic techniques. Cyril Chirouze is also on the program, Director of Winemaking and manager of Château des Jacques, owned by the venerable Maison Louis Jabot. Cyril made wine in the Côte d'Or before making the move to Beaujolais, yielding to the "siren call" of gamay, and the vast, untapped potential of the region. Today Cyril makes wines in the crus of Morgon and in Moulin-a-Vent.Mathieu Lapierre is our third star guest at the table. Matthieu's father Marcel Lapierre was a pivotal player in the revival of Beaujolais, one of the "gang of four" who moved towards making wines with a bare minimum of intervention, what are currently often called “natural” wines. Mathieu sets the record straight on what is "traditional" winemaking in the region (spoiler: it's probably not what you think), and explains why gamay languished in northern Burgundy but flourished in the south. John and Sara also attempt to sort out the status of the lieux-dits in Beaujolais and investigate the difference between a lieu-dit, a climat and a cru at the conclusion of the interview. Join us as we dig beneath the multicoloured soils of Beaujolais to reveal the secrets of France's most affable wine. Santé!This episode was produced in collaboration with the interprofessional association of Beaujolais.
In this episode we don't have a winemaker to present, a soil expert or map maker on our program but instead a chef and sommelier. Our guest today is chef José González-Solla (Pepe to his friends) of the renowned Casa Solla, close to Pontevedra in Galicia. Initially, it was known for its excellent, traditional, home cooking but when Solla took over from his parents, he transformed the whole business through his inventive style of cooking based on the freshest local ingredients. And he was successful not only in his re-thinking of the menu but also because he retained a strong following among his customers. The earthly delights prepared by the great Spanish chef Pepe Solla who has achieved a one Michelin star for Casa Solla in Galicia, (originally achieved from when his father was at the helm), featuring the authenticity of Galician flavors, can be enjoyed at Casa Atlántico and Atlántico Casa de Petiscos, the chef's Galician embassies in the center of Madrid. Now that the chef has opened another branch in Lisbon, Pepe Solla's cuisine has become more accessible than ever. Pepe says that “Galicia is the best place in the world to be a chef!” Largely due to the excellent quality of ingredients available in the region. Poly-agriculture in this area is a tradition with families planting potatoes and other produce underneath their vines grown on the granite anchored “para” training system resulting in a wealth of fresh, quality ingredients. In Galicia, dishes are often seasoned with a secret ingredient – pimentón, a smoked Spanish paprika. There is also the bounty of the sea to draw from which includes those famous razor clams and the Pulpo Gallego, not to mention Galician pork which is a specialty of region based on Galicia's unique breed of pig that's quite different from the Iberian pigs prevalent in most of Spain. There are native poultry breeds and a wealth of local cheeses made into unique shapes such as the mushroom-shaped cheese known as Cebreiro, the creamy Arzùa-Ulloa, the golden pear-shaped of San Simón da Costa and the cheese known as Tetilla . . . . Pepe Solla belongs to a group called the Grupo Nove, a 100%-Galician gastronomic movement. Members include about 20 Galician chefs, champions of their new regional cuisine based on top-quality, local raw, ingredients and innovation within this realm. They aim to bring Galicia out of its anonymity as a region, where very few people can name even a handful of chefs, and to showcase the excellence of the local food. Salivating? Join us as we ask chef Pepe Solla for tips on cooking at home and how best to enjoy the energetic wines of Rias Baixas.
In Episode 4 in a five-part series on Rias Baixas, the Wine Thieves speak with winemaker Emilio Rodriguez of the Terras Gauda winery in O Rosal, the largest privately owned winery in Rias Baixas. Emilio has been at Terras Gauda for longer than he can remember, and he is a big fan of some of the other native grapes of the region beyond Albariño, especially caiño blanco. He speaks about the sweeping changes that occurred in the region, bringing Rias Baixas out of the middle ages of homespun winemaking and into the modern, quality-focused industry it is today. O Rosal is in the spotlight, the third most important sub-zone of Rias Baixas in size after the Salnés Valley and Condado do Tea. A coastal region in the southwestern corner of Galicia, bordered by the Minho River and Portugal to the south, Condado do Tea to the east, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. O Rosal accounts for about 11% of total plantings in Rias Baixas, and sits in temperature between that of Condado do Tea, the warmest, and Val do Salnés, the coolest.Albariño is the main variety here, but complementary white varieties loureiro, treixadura, caiño and even godello have a role to play. Terraced, south-facing vineyards along the north bank of the Minho enjoy excellent sun exposure, maximizing the nearly 2200 sunshine hours per year. Ripeness is nudged to a slightly higher degree than in the Salnés Valley, enabling even late varieties like caiño to deliver. Another distinguishing feature of Rosal is the band of schist bedrock that runs through the region, a variation on the otherwise granite-derived soils in most of the rest of the Rías Baixas D.O. You can expect the white wines of O Rosal to tilt more towards stone fruit flavours and relatively generous and rounded palate.Grab a glass of your prefered Atlantic white and join John & Sara on their continued journey across the misty terroir of Rias Baixas. Salud!
Rias Baixas episode 3 of a five-part series: redefining Albariño, emerging styles, ageworthy wines, and the Condado do Tea subregion with special guest Isabel Salgado, winemaker at Fillaboa. In this episode we shift our focus over to the Condado do Tea sub-region. Condado de Tea is the second largest sub-region of the five, behind the Salnès Valley. It starts inland from O Rosal about 40 kilometres from the coast along the course of the Minho River into rugged, mountainous territory. The region gets its name from a tributary of the Miño, called the Tea River, which runs through Condado do Tea (the “County of Tea”). As the most inland of the sub-regions, it's the least Atlantic, although there is no question that all of Rias Baixas can be considered a maritime terroir. But, it's less directly affected by cooling marine breezes making it warmer overall. The soils are quite shallow here, with granite and slate sub-layers quite near the surface, with plenty of alluvial material along with pebbles and sand on top, deposited by both the Tea and the Miño rivers. Albariño is, again, the major grape, but Treixadura is the second variety of choice, which has a firm, steely structure, high acids and apple-y flavours. Today the Wine Thieves talk with Isabel Salgado, winemaker at the Fillaboa Estate, one of the oldest estates in Galicia and one of the largest in the land registry of Pontevedra. It features an exquisite garden of camellias, olive trees, and magnolias along with 50 hectares of vineyard divided into 12 parcels, mostly south-facing on the north (or right bank) of the Miño River. Isabel shares her thoughts on emerging styles of Albariño, including a wine she makes that spends 6 years ageing on lees before bottling, and experiment to extend the ageability of this variety so often consumed young.Join Isabella, John and Sara as they explore more unique facets of albariño when grown in this inland region on the pebbly soils left by the Tea and Miño Rivers. Salud!Episode sponsored by D.O. Rias Baixas, content exclusively by The Wine Thieves®
This is part two of a five-part series on the Wine of Rias Baixas. In the first episode, we took you through the region, including a brief history and the technical details of climate and soils, sub-regions and the denominación of origin rules and regulations. If you missed it, you may want to go back and have a listen to our interview Katia Alvarez, winemaker at the Martin Codax winery of the Val do Salnés sub-region. In this episode, we remain in the Salnés valley sub-zone and speak with Diego Rios, the Chilean winemaker in charge of regional reference, Granbazán. We get to the bottom of the mysterious origins of albariño with Diego, the most widely planted grape in Rias Baixas today. Germanic tribes? Cistercian monks travelling the Way of St. James? or Roman foragers? Find out in this episode.Saltiness in wine is a strangely recurring theme on Wine Thieves, and we also look more deeply in this episode into its causes. Is it real? Or perceived? A trick of the other senses joining together to create the impression, or a bona fide dose of sodium? Does the terroir of Rias Baixas itself contribute to the perception of salinity? We discuss such riveting angles as sodium deposits on grapes, absorption through soils into vines, and even how the important Galician canned seafood industry might play a role… As always with scientific papers, our conclusions are that, "further study in this field is recommended”. So grab a glass of salty coastal Albariño from Green Spain, maybe some razor clams or pulpo a la gallega, and join Sara and John on this adventure into the past and future.Salud!Episode sponsored by D.O. Rias Baixas, content exclusively by The Wine Thieves®
Welcome back and thank you for joining us for another season of Wine Thieves! We're off to a fresh start with our latest series in which we explore albariño, seaside vineyards and fresh Atlantic wines as we travel through the diverse wine-growing region of Rias Baixas. This small corner of northwestern “Green Spain” in the region of Galicia has emerged over the last couple of decades as a premier source of fresh, crunchy, salty wines that are mainly, but not exclusively, white. This first episode in the series will give you all the relevant background to the Denomination of Origin Rias Baixas and its wines, and includes an interview with winemaker Katia Alvarez, chief winemaker at Martìn Codax, one of the region's largest and most recognized producers around the globe. The winery is based in the sub-region of the Val do Salnès, the largest of the 5 subregions of Rias Baixas. The coastal landscape of Rías Baixas features a series of spectacular jagged inlets and shallow fjords known as “rias”, hence the name Rías Baixas, which means literally the “lower rias", or lower estuaries”. The D.O. Rias Baixas encompasses over 4000 hectares of vineyards, split into 5 sub-zones according to their topography and proximity to rivers and the sea. Although over 99% of all wine produced in Rías Baixas is white, differences in microclimates, terroir and grape varieties in the five sub-zones, as well as different winemaking techniques, make for impressive diversity. Styles range from crisp, aromatic citrusy and saline in Val do Salnés, to the peachier, softer style in O Rosal, and a less fruity, some say earthier style in Condado do Tea.Grab your map and your glass as we explore the remarkable hillside and terraced vineyards of Rias Baixas, discuss the traditional pergola system called "parra", learn why yields are so low, what wine style to expect from each subregion, how salty sea air affects coastal vineyards, and how hydric stress can occur in a rainy climate. Salud!Episode sponsored by the D.O. Rias Baixas
A replay of last year's terrific episode celebrating Riesling day, March 19th, featuring Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) of the Mosel Valley, Johannes Leitz from the Rheingau, Philip Wittman of the Rheinhessen, and twins Hans and Valentin Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz. The earliest-known written record of Riesling dates back precisely to March 13, 1435 in Germany, in the cellar log of Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen in Rüsselsheim, a town just south of the Rheingau. The log notes a purchase for 22 shillings of “seczreben Rießlingen in die wingarten – “Riesling cuttings for the vineyard”. That's why March 13th has been officially designated as Riesling's big day, and this year, 2021, mark's its 586th birthday. Deutschland is its undisputed home, accounting for 45% of all the Riesling planted worldwide with 23,800 hectares under vine. So how better to celebrate this momentous occasion than at table with a quartet of Germany's maximum Riesling artists? John and Sara welcome stars Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) of the Mosel Valley, Johannes Leitz from the Rheingau, Philip Wittman of the Rheinhessen, and twins Hans and Valentin Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz in the southern Pfalz for a jovial ode to this favorite grape of all wine lovers and an exploration of the grosses gewächs, or grands crus, of these top producers. Learn your slate from your quartz, your Himmelreich from your Sonnenhur, Roseneck from Rottland, Kirchspiel from Brunnenhäuschen, and Kastanienbusch from Ganz Horn, among others. Reminisce about the days when a bottle of cru classé St. Estephe sold for $5 and a bottle of Mosel for $8, get the table's perspective on unforgettable food & Riesling pairings, and bonus: learn which rieslings these experts consider the benchmarks outside of Germany. Grab a glass of this beauty and don't miss the riesling celebration!This episode is produced in partnership with the Wines of Germany.
This is the last in our 5-part series featuring Armenia's modern wine renaissance and our final episode of 2021. This time we focus on what's most important, that is . . . eating and drinking in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia! Following the evolution of wine culture in the country that moved from a brandy-producing and brandy drinking culture to embracing their millennia-old wine history and reviving wine production and wine drinking. The Thieves speak to Mariam Sagetelyan, the co-owner of the most important wine bar in Yerevan, called InVino, which is still the only wine-only restaurant bar in Yerevan. Wine is all they sell and serve. Artem Parseryan also joins the program, the winemaker at Trinity Canyon Vineyards, a project started by Mariam's father and two other friends, hence “Trinity” so that they could supply their wine bar and restaurant at the time. Their venture began only about a decade or so ago, but it was a time when reliable commercial wine was very hard to come by. They literally had to fill the supply for the demand they had created.Respect for indigenous varieties, a look at self-rooted international grapes as a way to better understand the phylloxera-free sites of the Vayots Dzor and "to karas or not to karas" are some of the many topics John and Sara discuss as they uncover the many specialties that are to be savoured in Yerevan. Join us as we ring in the New Year with a glass of areni in hand!
In this episode, the Thieves visit one of the world's great wine capitals: Vienna. Up until the late Middle Ages, grapevines were still growing within city walls in what is now the first district in the heart of Vienna. Vineyards were slowly pushed to the outskirts, but Vienna remains the only European capital to have acreage of commercial consequence; just under 600ha are planted today to a wide variety of both red and white grapes. In the districts surrounding the city, especially in the north such as the 21st and its historic neighbourhoods of Strebersdorf, Stammersdorf and Jedlersdorf, and the 19th district's Heiligenstadt, Nussdorf, and Grinzing, rural meets urban in a setting that features charmingly rustic wine taverns surrounded by the vineyards that supply them. Called buschenshank, or more commonly heuriger (plu: heurigen; HOOI-REE-GEn), these original, seasonal pop-up, farm-to-table-restaurants operated by vintners have been a Viennese, and Austrian, tradition for nearly two and a half centuries. They've become such a cultural institution that, like the Viennese waltz, they were included in the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage in Austria. You know they're open for business when you see a fir branch hanging above the door.Of the many styles of wine produced in Vienna, the most traditional and emblematic wine is the white wine called Wiener Gemischter Satz, (VEEner-geh-MISH-ter-sats) which means literally the “mixed set of Vienna”. In practical terms, gemischter satz is a wine made from a mix of different white grapes co-planted in the same vineyard, and harvested and vinified together. Vienna is one of the few places left in the world where the ancient practice of planting multi-variety field blends, once the norm throughout the old world (and in the oldest vineyards of the new world), is still followed. Today, almost one-fifth of vineyards in Vienna are field blends.Joining Sara and John on the show to discuss Viennese drinking habits are two important winemakers in the renaissance of Vienna's wines, including its flagship Gemischter Satz: Fritz Wieninger of Weingut Wieninger and Hajszann-Neumann, and Alex Zahel of the Zahel Family winery. Grab a glass of "gemischt” and come heuriger-hopping with us through Vienna.
You probably already know about Austrian grüner veltliner. It's the country's most planted variety, and the wine you're most likely to find on store shelves and restaurant wine lists. You may even know that Austria makes exceptional riesling and fine reds from local specialties like blaufränkisch and sankt laurent. But what may be news is that this middle European country is also the source of some of the world's best sauvignon blanc, from a small region in the country's deep south called Steiermark, or Styria.Styria is one of Austria's wettest and most humid regions. Pressure systems from the nearby Adriatic Sea regularly drive moist, unstable pockets of air up into Austria where they eventually run up against the Alps. As air masses rise, storm clouds form, and then slip back down into Styria and drop up to 1200 millimetres of rain annually, at the upper limit for quality grape growing. Warm, moist air is also a catalyst for vine diseases of all kinds, a challenge especially for the small but growing number of organic grape growers in the region. So what makes quality wine possible and worthwhile in this seemingly inhospitable place? The answer, in a word, is hills. Steep hills. In fact, outside of the Alps proper, Styria has the country's steepest slopes, the most extreme of which tip over 115% grade. That's steeper than even the most radical sites in the Wachau.To better understand Styria's calling card, sauvignon blanc, John and Sara speak to two producers widely considered at the pinnacle of quality : Alex Sattler of Sattlerhof, and Stefan Tement of Weingut Tement. These two are representative of the growing number of young winemakers taking over family estates and pushing the limits on quality production, making Styria a particularly dynamic and quality-focused . Put down your grüner and get ready for a vertigo-inducing episode of Wine Thieves!
The Wine Thieves make their way to the south of France to the country's most productive IGP, the Pays d'Oc. This long coastal strip spanning 240 kilometres across the Mediterranean Sea from just east of Nîmes to the Spanish border is a multi-faceted region with endless sunshine, benevolent winds and variations in elevation that make it possible to successfully grow no fewer than 58 permitted grape varieties. The IGP Pays d'Oc (Indication Géographique Protégée, or, Protected Geographic Indication) is an area that serious collectors routinely overlook given its reputation for ready-to-drink wines of a nebulous geographic region. Yet the designation has been steadily transforming, helped by a modern approach, foreign interest and investment and varietal labelling. More than just pleasure-for-price, the area is also a non-conformist playground, thanks to the freedom afforded by the Pays d'Oc IGP designation.John and Sara interview three producers who forged unique identities within the Pays d'Oc. First up is Tim Ford, Owner and Managing Director at Domaine Gayda, a family-owned winery whose organic vineyards are in the heart of the Languedoc in the foothills of the Pyrenees about 25 km southwest of Carcassonne. Tim and co-owner Anthony Record joined forces with winemaker Vincent Chansault in 2004 to focus on sustainably-produced wines with modern appeal.Our next guests are dynamic couple Laurent and Catherine Delaunay, who founded Les Jamelles and co-founded Abbots & Delaunay (in Marseillette, near Carcassonne) making a range of wildly successful wines with a particular focus on varietally bottlings. Originally from Burgundy, where they still have a foothold and produce pinot noir and chardonnay, the couple fell in love with the Languedoc and its myriad creative possibilities. They are producers, négociants and some of the busiest people the Thieves have met in the world of wine.Our third guest is Magali Dardé, third generation in charge of Domaine Les Yeuses, and her agent Olivier. The winery in Mèze on the Etang de Thau – a brackish inland body of water - was built in the 13th century by the Knights Templars atop an ancient Roman villa. The estate has been in the Dardé family for over 30 years with the family sharing in the day to day responsibilities. Single variety wines are a focus, sourced from the estate's 80 hectares of vines with a view of the sea.Join us for this vibrant episode with some of the stars of Southern France.This episode was produced in partnership with Pays d'Oc IGP.
This week we're back in Armenia focusing more deeply on the origins and proliferation of Armenia's autochthonous grape varieties. Indigenous and autochthonous seem to be used interchangeably, but as we've learned, in the scientific community, autochthonous is the preferred term for grape varieties that were born, so to speak, in a certain place. So, get ready for a very heady interview as we delve deep into vinifera DNA, domestication centers, and algorithmic predictions of grapevine distribution …The Wine Thieves welcome guest Kristina Margaryan, head of the research group of plant genomics at the institute of molecular biology and the national academy of science specializing in grapevine genetics and genomics. In 2018 she helped to establish the first Armenian grapevine database. Also joining the discussion is Varuzhan Mouradian, founder of Van Ardi, one of the first boutique wineries established as part of the modern Armenian wine renaissance. To prep you for the discussion, John and Sara learn the definitions of morphology, phenotypes, somatic mutations, chimera, germplasm and clarify the distinction between a grape synonym and homonym. You'll discover what just may be the world's oldest grape variety and the possibility of long-lost relatives across Europe as our guests explore archeo-botanical evidence and newfound genetic research. Looking to the past to innovate in the future, they consider the possiblity that ancient, wild grape varieties may hold the key to disease resistant and climate-hardy farming. Don't miss out on this thought-provoking conversation!
(Previously aired 07/21) In this important episode, we connect with two of the many women who make up the fabric of Napa Valley's wine trade. We speak with Megan Baccitich, a Healdsburg native and winemaker at the forward-thinking Geodesy Winery, and Ana Diogo-Draper, born raised and educated in Portugal but in Napa for the last 15 years, and now Director of winemaking at Artesa. We explore why discussions about women in wine are still relevant and necessary, examine the importance of mentorship programs for women such as the innovative WG EDGE (Women Gaining an Edge), a project led by Judy Jordan of Jordan Family of wines and founder of Geodesy. Both Ana and Megan tell their stories of how they rose to leadership roles in a historically male-dominated industry and give advice to women interested in pursuing careers in wine. We'll look at how Napa's wine community is supporting women in wine and the continuing need to increase the number of leadership roles held by women. Join us with a glass for a thought-provoking conversation.This episode was created in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.
In this episode, the Thieves explore one of the most important and timely topics in the wine world today: Regenerative Agriculture. “Regen Ag”, or simply RA as it's often called, has become THE buzzword of the year not just in the wine industry, but in the agri-food sector at large. What is regen ag? It's a simple question but the answer is anything but. In very basic terms, it's a system of agriculture that puts in more than it takes out. It's not about just sustaining what's already in the soil, but actually replenishing nutrients, increasing organic matter, capturing carbon, protecting water sources, making the crop more resilient to erratic weather events, and especially increasing biodiversity above and below ground, including micro-fauna, all the billions of bacteria and fungi, protozoa and nematodes that live in healthy soil and that are necessary for healthy plants, or in this case, vines. But it's also the wellbeing of workers and the overall profitability of an operation. What could be more important than this in the 21st century?But exactly how a farmer goes about implementing regen ag is the more complex question. Unlike organic or biodynamic viticulture, which controls the inputs on a farm – what and how much of anything you can spray on vines, for example, regen ag is all about outcomes. It's not prescriptive; the success of RA is measured not by what you put in, but by what you end up with.But how do you measure, or even certify, that success? How do you measure wellbeing? How much carbon do you have to capture? How many plants and animals and bacteria do you need to have on your farm to be bio-diverse? The actual yardsticks are hard to pin down. We discuss these questions, and many more, with our two expert guests from New Zealand, a country at the forefront of regenerative agriculture. Joining us is Michelle Barry of the Bragato Research Institute (BRI), the research arm of New Zealand Winegrowers that is leading the charge on researching and implementing and communicating RA, and kiwi master of wine Steve Smith, who's spent his whole life since high school working in the NZ wine industry, co-founded Craggy Range, and is now co-owner of biodynamic Pyramid Valley Vineyards in North Canterbury and Lowburn Ferry in Central Otago, as well as the Smith and Sheth Wine Company. Contemplate the future of winegrowing with us with a glass of responsibly made NZ wine in hand.This episode was produced with the assistance of New Zealand Winegrowers.
(Previously aired July 2021) This is not an episode about Napa's “icon wines” or “icon wineries” whose labels, rarity, and high cost cause a frenzy among consumers resulting in exclusive waitlists for the privilege of purchasing a bottle. No, today we're talking about the “star” vineyards that, in some cases, have become brands in their own right. In Part One, we spoke with Andy Beckstoffer, the winegrower who turned Napa Valley's grower-winery relationship upside down. Today our illustrious guests include Paul Hobbs, Chris Tynan of Cliff Lede Vineyards, and Tom Hinde of Taub Family Selections to discuss what makes their vineyards so unique. Paul Hobbs is an esteemed international winemaking consultant with projects across the globe from Argentina to Armenia but his home base is at Napa Valley's Paul Hobbs winery whose fruit is sourced from the sub AVA's of St. Helena and Oakville. He works with Beckstoffer's fruit from the notable To Kalon, Las Piedras, and Dr. Crane vineyards. He'll open up about his long-time relationship with Beckstoffer Vineyards plus the Nathan Coombs Estate on the foot of the Vaca Mountain range known for its volcanic soils and cool climate. Taub Family Selections represents top sites in St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville, Mount Veeder, and Howell Mountain. Through a relationship with Andy Beckstoffer, the Taub family has access to the vineyards of Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III (Rutherford) and Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper (Oakville) producing Cabernet Sauvignons since 2012. Winemaker Tom Hinde was previously known for his work at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates, Hartford Family Winery, La Crema Winery, Lakoya, Cardinale, Stonestreet, and Verite. We'll tap into his experience at creating brands and a strong market perspective to give us insight into why these vineyards command such respect.We'll also be speaking with Christopher Tynan, winemaker of Cliff Lede Vineyards whose experience includes working with Helen Turley at Blankiet Estate in Yountville, as the assistant winemaker at Colgin Cellars where he worked closely with Vineyard Manager David Abreu. We discuss the famed Poetry Vineyard that is carved into a steep west-facing hillside, which reaches from the highest elevations of the Stags Leap District sub-appellation to the valley floor drawing its uniqueness from shallow, volcanic soils atop fractured shale planted by David Abreu with high vine density and proprietary clonal selection. Top up your glass with one of Napa's finest and join us as we hunt down some of Napa's most unique terroirs.
In this third episode focused on the re-nascent wine industry in Armenia, the Wine Thieves get into a deep and detailed conversation about ancient and recent techniques applied to the wealth of autochthonous grapes in the country. Joined by guests Artak Gabrielyan, chief winemaker at the Armenian National Agrarian University and lecturer at the EVN Wine Academy, and Jean-Paul Berger, German-born but Armenian tradition-obsessed winemaker at the historic Voskevaz winery in Aragatsotn region, Sara and John delve into the fascinating history and practical applications of karas, Armenia's millennia-old clay amphora. Caucasian oak and its use for barrel making also enters the discussion, including the similarities with, and differences between it and American white oak and European species, as well as the local grape varieties that are best suited to fermenting and ageing in karas and/or indigenous oak. We speculate on the "Kahkani method", the equivalent to appassimento in Italy, originally used to preserve grapes for eating during cold Armenian winters. At what point did someone think of turning partially dried grapes into wine? Did the Greeks, and later the Italians, learn this technique from the Armenians?And lastly in a far-too-rare segment, the Thieves taste and discuss a thoroughly delicious bottle of Voskehat, the Queen of Armenian white varieties from the Vayots Dzor region in the volcanic Armenian Highlands, and compare and contrast two examples of the country's most important red variety, Areni. Grab a glass of either, or both, (if you live in Canada, the best source of Armenian wines is kinedoun.com) and come with us on another enjoyable journey to the ancient world of wine.
(Previously aired 07/15) Join the Wine Thieves in Napa Valley this week for the first of a special two-part series on the "grand crus" of Napa Valley, that is, the very best vineyards, the historic and more recently famous sites that produce Napa's finest wines. Today we're going straight to the source to talk to the Napa Valley's, and probably all of California's, most famous grape grower, a man who has created as powerful a luxury brand as anyone in Napa without ever having bottled a single commercial wine of his own, Andy Beckstoffer, a name intimately associated with, and prominently displayed on, bottles of Napa's most expensive and sought-after wines.Andy Beckstoffer is one of the early and most important leaders in the evolution of the Napa Valley to a world-class grape-growing region. Beckstoffer To Kalon, Beckstoffer Georges the III, Beckstoffer Dr, Crane, and other important vineyard names on a bottle of wine sends a shiver down the spine of Napa Valley wine lovers, no matter what producer's name they're associated with, and the price is guaranteed to be premium. The story of how and why this came to be is worth a listen in itself. Today, Beckstoffer Vineyards owns and farms over 3,600 acres of top-quality grape-growing properties in three Northern California wine-growing regions – the Napa Valley, Mendocino County, and the Red Hills of Lake County. Join us for a frank conversation with Andy himself who will take us through his history in Napa Valley and how he came to develop an idiosyncratic business model that empowers the grower, self-regulates quality and may have contributed to the preservation of agricultural land in Napa Valley. Photo credit: Beckstoffer Vineyards, To KalonThis episode was created in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.
Welcome back to Wine Thieves. On Today's episode we take a deeper look at VQA Ontario wines, and more specifically the Niagara Peninsula and its 10 sub-appellations as we try to unravel the mystery of the cru, the single parcels of vineyards that have, or yet may rise, to the top of the heap of Ontario VQA wines.With grapegrowing experience stretching back to the 1970s, it is becoming more clear which sites are best suited to which grape varieties. John and Sara speak to guests Ilya Senchuck of Leaning Post in Niagara and Shauna White of Adamo Estates in Hockley Valley about their quests to find worthy single vineyards. This episode was created in partnership with VQA Wine Coutry Ontario.
Today we're exploring viticulture on top of the world, the wines of Mendoza which is the most prolific wine-growing region of Argentina. In fact, Mendoza holds 75% of the total vineyards in Argentina and the largest number of wineries in the country. In this episode, we'll be talking about the diversity within Mendoza in all its corners from Lavalle to San Rafael so you'll benefit from having a map on hand to follow along. They'll take a deep dive into the Uco Valley from the highest peaks in Gualtallary that reach up to 1600 meters in elevation to the depths of La Consulta at 900 meters and everything in between from Special guest Joaquin Hidalgo guide the Thieves on their mountainous journey with perils of fist-sized hail, extreme drought and high elevation radiation . Hidalgo is the Argentinian and Chilean contributor to Vinous magazine, a publication created by Antonio Galloni. Like John and Sara, he's primarily a wine critic and seems to have been destined for this role as he holds a degree in Winemaking from the Liceo Agrícola, and also has a degree in Journalism from the National University of La Plata. For almost 20 years, Joaquín has been living in Buenos Aires where he writes about wine and food for several major media outlets including weekly columns for La Nación, the major national newspaper, and La Mañana de Neuquén. He co-founded vinomanos.com, the first mobile guide to Argentine wines.The Thieves question Joaquin about the increasing amount of research being undertaken by a new generation of producers that has led to the identification of micro-regions with different terroirs, reflecting the diverse character of Argentine viticulture. In particular, a recent study published earlier this year by the Catena Institute of Wine, founded by Dr. Laura Catena, that demonstrated measurable evidence for the existence of terroir in Argentina. The study led by Fernando Buscema and Roy Urvieta analyzed phenolic compounds in malbec wine to determine markers for vintage, climate and the expression of particular site and soil characteristics. To a very high degree of accuracy, they were able to identify wines from 23 plots, or parcela, over 12 different sites in Mendoza despite differences in vintage conditions. To find out more, join John and Sara with a glass of malbec in hand for a virtual trip to the foothills of the Andes.This podcast was created in partnership with the Wines of Argentina.
In the previous episode entitled Armenia: Stepping Back Through Time, the Wine Thieves introduced listeners to this fascinating country with 6100 years at least of winemaking history. Armenia is the site of the oldest known winemaking facility, the Areni-1 cave discovered in 2007 in the Armenian highlands in the region called Vayots Dzor. Despite that very long history, the modern Armenian wine industry is barely a decade old. But the country is moving at a rapid pace to re-establish its winemaking heritage and has attracted the interest of celebrity flying winemakers like Michel Rolland and Paul Hobbs. Today John and Sara welcome to the show two of the wine industry's leading protagonists of the rebirth of Armenian wine, Juliana del Aguilar Eurnekian, president of Karas Wines, and Vahe Keusgheurian, the man behind Wineworks in Yerevan, an important wine incubator, also a nurseryman dedicated to rediscovering Armenia's rich heritage of indigenous vines, and a producer of three wine brands himself.The Thieves start to examine the various wine-growing regions of Armenia, seven of them unofficially, in this country with shocking diversity within such a small geographic area. You'll hear from their guests about a handful of the most promising local grape varieties, such as Areni, Voskehat, Tozot, Kakheti and Sireni (aka khondogni) out of the 200+ known to exists, which have the greatest potential to firmly establish the country on the world wine map. There will be more on the wealth of indigenous varieties in an upcoming episode so stay tuned!This episode was produced in partnership with the Vine & Wine Foundation of Armenia.
What do a British diplomat, a Paris wine shop owner, and a Mosel winegrower have to do with Ontario wine? Listen in to find out - they all defined or shaped Ontario's wine industry in some way. In this rich episode on the history of the Ontario wine industry, you'll also hear many more legends, tales and genuine anecdotes archived from the mists of distant times in the voices of those who witnessed them. Be there for the death of labrusca wines, and the birth of an appellation system, the scourge of hungry birds and the triumphs of international awards.With a collective experience in the wine industry of well over a century, our guests today include legendary wine writer Tony Aspler, President of Cave Spring Vineyard Len Penachetti, Stratus winemaker Jean-Laurent (“JL”) Groux, and Vineland Estates winemaker Brian Schmidt. We'll take a look at some of the early plantings in Niagara as well as the confluence of factors in the late 1980s that paved the way to grow the Ontario wine industry into what it is today including, GATT (the general agreement on tariffs and trade), the Wine Content Act, and the aforementioned creation of the Vintner's Quality Alliance, or the VQA as we call it, the appellation authority in Ontario. Tariffs, trade and technicalities aside, the Thieves are most interested in the stories told by many of those that were at the forefront of this burgeoning industry. Grab a glass and listen in to what Sara and John have uncovered from the archives. This episode was created in partnership with Wine Country Ontario although the opinions expressed are entirely those of the Wine Thieves and guests.
This week the Wine Thieves embark upon the all-important discussion of riesling grown in Ontario, Canada. Ontario's cool-climate wine growing region, enjoys a special status as one of the few regions in the “modern world” where Riesling is a signature grape variety. It is home to vineyards that are now over 40 years old and as of this year, riesling makes up 15% of all VQA Ontario production by volume. The early 1970s gave rose to a quality wine swell in Ontario, at which time riesling dominated the list of vinifera plantings. John and Sara will explore how this came to be and discuss how wine styles today may have been affected by the early viticultural pioneers of riesling. The Thieves invite Emma Garner, winemaker of Thirty Bench Estates, Gabe Demarco, viticulturist and winemaker of Cave Spring Cellars and Charles Baker of Stratus Vineyards who has established a significant following for his single-vineyard, small lot riesling production. They'll discuss regional differences across Ontario and Niagara from the coveted Beamsville Bench to the richer styles of the Lincoln Lakeshore and Niagara-on-the-Lake and from the cooler reaches of Prince Edward County to the southern, sunshine drenched shores of Lake Erie. Increasing demand for sparkling riesling, why the variety is queen of Icewine, and the dynamic balance between acid and sugar in riesling are all on the discussion table. Pour yourself a glass and join us for this "electric" episode of Wine Thieves!
The world's most ancient wine-producing region, with 6,000 years of history, is just beginning a modern winemaking renaissance. Why haven't you heard about Armenian wine? Unlike neighbouring Georgia, whose wine production has continued unbroken for millennia, Armenia's ill-fated wine culture was drowned by successive waves of troubled historical events. But thanks to the country's extreme climate, phylloxera-free volcanic soils, abundance of highly promising, antediluvian grape varieties such as areni and voskehat - the ancestors of all wine grapes - growing ambition, national pride and a commitment to help rebuild the country through resurrecting its wine industry, small but mighty Armenia is scratching out some territory on the Historic World wine map.Mount Ararat's eternally snow covered peak looms large over most of the country, the stately, strato-volcanic peak is the country's national symbol, a sacred mountain and a spiritual emblem. Biblical historians believe it to be the place where Noah first set his Ark upon solid ground after the floods, subsequently planted vineyards and made wine. But what's certain is that Armenia is home to the oldest known winery in the world, uncovered recently in Vayots Dzor, a region in the Armenian highlands in the country's southeast. The small village of Areni is where the stunning discovery of the winery was made in 2010. An American-Armenian team of researchers and archeologists excavated what has been dubbed the Areni-1 cave, where evidence was uncovered indicating that the site had been used for making wine as early as 6,100 years ago, a thousand years earlier than proactive winemaking was thought to have started. Although older vessels containing traces of what is believed to be fermented grape juice have been unearthed in neighbouring Georgia and Iran, Areni-1 is so far the oldest site unearthed where wine was conclusively not only stored, but also purposely produced (not accidentally fermented!). We'll take a deep dive into the history of the world's cradle of wine, and explore what the future holds for this reawakened wine region. John and Sara welcome Zara Muradian and Hayarpi Shaninyan of the Armenian Vine & Wine Foundation, a fledgling organization created to re-establish Armenian wine on the national and international scene.
In our ongoing series featuring Femmes du Vin, we speak with Madeline Puckette, author, co-founder and wine education content creator of the wildly popular Wine Folly. Stemming from her own experience with formal wine education, Madeline decided to take a rather radical departure from formalized pedagogy, working instead within a visual framework to better communicate information to a broader audience. We'll discuss her uniquely unconventional and progressive perspective and how it translates into engaging online and on-page content. We're delighted to have Priya Roa on the program who is co-founder of The Social Herbivore with Master Sommelier Jennifer Huether, and is a vegan food consultant & TV host. Priya is working on the first ever vegan wine and food pairing guidebook hoping to highlight the advantages of a plant-based lifestyle. Her non-intimidating style encourages people to take small steps in a planet-positive direction. These interviews were recorded late last fall at the start of the Femmes du Vin virtual conference series. Femmes du Vin is a grassroots women's organization dedicated to promoting and amplifying the voices of all women in wine. For more information visit: https://www.femmesduvin.org. This is a unsponsored episode.
We're back in the Napa Valley with stories about the early days of the re-birth of the Napa Valley from the 1970s and 1980s. We'll hear about the hard work, the physical labour of establishing a vineyard, the uncertainty that hung over wineries at the time, and certainly the financial drain. John and Sara speak with two second-generation winemakers from the Napa Valley who both have stepped into the family business and taken the reins from their parents. It's the sort of discussion and topic you'd think far more common in the old world, where multiple generations have been farming the same land and making wine, with family legacies stretching back in some cases several centuries.The Thieves welcome Colleen Williams née Seps, who grew up at Storybook Mountain Vineyards in Napa Valley. A storied family affair that began inn 1976, when Jerry and his German-born wife, Sigrid, discovered an abandoned vineyard and ghost winery, with century-old caves, in the Mayacamas Mountains northwest of Calistoga in the far northern Napa Valley. They were captivated by this wild, high-elevation site, which dated to the 1880s when it was known as Grimm Brothers Vineyards & Wine Vaults, and the couple purchased the property, and set about replanting the historic vineyard, and constructed a new winery. Storybook quickly became one of California's premier producers of Zinfandel and, in 1990, Jerry initiated the creation of Zinfandel Advocates & Producers, better known as ZAP, an organization dedicated to promoting the features and benefits of Zinfandel.Christopher Vandendriessche of White Rock Vineyards in the Stag's Leap District of the Napa Valley is also on the program. The original parcel was purchased by Dr. Pettingill in 1870 who was a globetrotter and bon vivant but he is also known to have been a dentist, brewer, winemaker, and horse breeder. The vineyard he planted was one of the earliest plantings in Napa Valley. In 1871, using only a hand saw to cut the white rock he quarried from the property, he constructed a winery and also designed two cellars, where he began the tradition of bottle aging his wine for 4 years before release- an approach still practiced at White Rock.This episode was produced in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.
This is not an episode about Napa's “icon wines” or “icon wineries” whose labels, rarity, and high cost cause a frenzy among consumers resulting in exclusive waitlists for the privilege of purchasing a bottle. No, today we're talking about the “star” vineyards that, in some cases, have become brands in their own right. In Part One, we spoke with Andy Beckstoffer, the winegrower who turned Napa Valley's grower-winery relationship upside down. Today our illustrious guests include Paul Hobbs, Chris Tynan of Cliff Lede Vineyards, and Tom Hinde of Taub Family Selections to discuss what makes their vineyards so unique. Paul Hobbs is an esteemed international winemaking consultant with projects across the globe from Argentina to Armenia but his home base is at Napa Valley's Paul Hobbs winery whose fruit is sourced from the sub AVA's of St. Helena and Oakville. He works with Beckstoffer's fruit from the notable To Kalon, Las Piedras, and Dr. Crane vineyards. He'll open up about his long-time relationship with Beckstoffer Vineyards plus the Nathan Coombs Estate on the foot of the Vaca Mountain range known for its volcanic soils and cool climate. Taub Family Selections represents top sites in St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville, Mount Veeder, and Howell Mountain. Through a relationship with Andy Beckstoffer, the Taub family has access to the vineyards of Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III (Rutherford) and Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper (Oakville) producing Cabernet Sauvignons since 2012. Winemaker Tom Hinde was previously known for his work at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates, Hartford Family Winery, La Crema Winery, Lakoya, Cardinale, Stonestreet, and Verite. We'll tap into his experience at creating brands and a strong market perspective to give us insight into why these vineyards command such respect.We'll also be speaking with Christopher Tynan, winemaker of Cliff Lede Vineyards whose experience includes working with Helen Turley at Blankiet Estate in Yountville, as the assistant winemaker at Colgin Cellars where he worked closely with Vineyard Manager David Abreu. We discuss the famed Poetry Vineyard that is carved into a steep west-facing hillside, which reaches from the highest elevations of the Stags Leap District sub-appellation to the valley floor drawing its uniqueness from shallow, volcanic soils atop fractured shale planted by David Abreu with high vine density and proprietary clonal selection. Top up your glass with one of Napa's finest and join us as we hunt down some of Napa's most unique terroirs.
Join the Wine Thieves in Napa Valley this week for the first of a special two-part series on the "grand crus" of Napa Valley, that is, the very best vineyards, the historic and more recently famous sites that produce Napa's finest wines. Today we're going straight to the source to talk to the Napa Valley's, and probably all of California's, most famous grape grower, a man who has created as powerful a luxury brand as anyone in Napa without ever having bottled a single commercial wine of his own, Andy Beckstoffer, a name intimately associated with, and prominently displayed on, bottles of Napa's most expensive and sought-after wines.Andy Beckstoffer is one of the early and most important leaders in the evolution of the Napa Valley to a world-class grape-growing region. Beckstoffer To Kalon, Beckstoffer Georges the III, Beckstoffer Dr, Crane, and other important vineyard names on a bottle of wine sends a shiver down the spine of Napa Valley wine lovers, no matter what producer's name they're associated with, and the price is guaranteed to be premium. The story of how and why this came to be is worth a listen in itself. Today, Beckstoffer Vineyards owns and farms over 3,600 acres of top-quality grape-growing properties in three Northern California wine-growing regions – the Napa Valley, Mendocino County, and the Red Hills of Lake County. Join us for a frank conversation with Andy himself who will take us through his history in Napa Valley and how he came to develop an idiosyncratic business model that empowers the grower, self-regulates quality and may have contributed to the preservation of agricultural land in Napa Valley. Photo credit: Beckstoffer Vineyards, To KalonThis episode was created in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.
On the program today we connect with two of the many women who make up the fabric of Napa Valley's wine trade. We'll speak with Megan Baccitich, a Healdsburg native and Winemaker of Geodesy Winery, and Ana Diogo-Draper, born raised, and educated in Portugal, she is the Director of winemaking of Artesa, formerly with the team at Rutherford Hill. We'll discuss the importance of mentorship programs for women such as that of WG EDGE (Women Gaining Edge), a project led by Judy Jordan of the Jordan Family of wines and the Founder of Geodesy. Both Ana and Megan tell their stories of how they rose to leadership roles in a historically male-dominated industry and give advice to those interested in pursuing careers in wine. We'll look at how Napa's wine community is supporting women in wine and the importance of increasing the number of leadership roles held by women. Join us with a glass for a thought-provoking conversation.This episode was created in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.
The Man, The Myth, The Legend. On occasion, the Thieves feature conversations with sommeliers and wine industry leaders with unique perspectives, who are great storytellers, and whose work they admire. In this episode, John and Sara speak with the one and only Paul Grieco, 'General and Manager' of Tribeca's Terroir wine bar in New York City, one of the finest not only in Manhattan but in the whole U.S. Canadian born, Grieco was initiated into hospitality at his family's restaurant La Scala, a Toronto institution from the early 60s until 1993 on the corner of Bay and Charles Street. But after almost 30 years now in New York City, Paul is a naturalized New Yorker, famous for his impassioned and unabashed opinions. Sara and John question Grieco about New York wines in the wake of their recent series on the wines of the Empire State, and the conversation flows naturally into running a much admired wine bar, building an uncompromising wine list, the state of global wine prices, and of course, the need to have 5 Vouvrays on by the glass. It's essential listening for anyone who operates or works in a wine-focused establishment, and entertainment for anyone who frequents them. Some explicit language punctuates much of that New Yorker conviction, so, tender listener, be forewarned! This episode is sure to prove perspective-changing as well as humorous so grab a glass of fine Finger Lakes riesling (a logical choice, as you'll hear) and join the discussion.
Drink Chenin!In honour of Drink Chenin Day, June 18th 2021, the Wine Thieves make a special trip to South Africa, a global leader in Chenin Blanc production with 55% of the world's plantings. It's the #1 most planted grape of any colour in the Cape Winelands, accounting for 17.5% of national acreage. The grape has a complicated history but is likely to have been established in the Anjou region of France as far back as the 9th century when it was known as Chenère. It later became known as Chenin Blanc after Mont Chenin in the 15th century, just after it had been brought to the Touraine region of the Loire. In South Africa Chenin Blanc became known as "Steen" with its own contentious and befuddled backstory.John and Sara welcome Ken Forrester, a founding member of the Chenin Blanc Association, from his winery Stellenbosch, Andrea Mullineux of Mullineux in Swartland and Sebastien Beaumont of Beaumont Wines in Bot River, Walker Bay, to their virtual round table. They delve into the history of Chenin Blanc from its days as a workhorse, brandy base to the world-beating Lieberstein wine brand in the 1960s (the world's best selling wine for a stretch!) and its rise to quality prominence in the last 20 years becoming the industry's driving and galvanizing force, and nº1 export. Find out how old bush vines, stainless steel and oak all play a role in stylistic differences, alongside terroir of course. As we'll find out, the age of vineyards plays a significant role in the character of Chenin, nowhere more apparent than in South Africa where almost 1/3 of the country's Chenin plantings are over 20 years old with over 700ha more than 40 years old. Join us with a memorable glass of Chenin to celebrate this captivating grape variety!This episode was produced in partnership with the Wines of South Africa.
The Wine Thieves are thrilled to be back on home soil in beautiful southern Ontario investigating what might just be Ontario's finest and most reliable grape variety, Chardonnay. Of the 51 varieties authorized for VQA production, chardonnay is number one by volume accounting for 13% of total VQA production. This episode gives you an overview of Ontario appellations and sub-appellations, and explanations of some of the major differences we've come to expect from this chameleon grape variety across the province. In discussion with winemaker friends Jay Johnston of Hidden Bench and Craig McDonald of Andrew Peller/Trius in Niagara, along with Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run in Prince Edward County, John and Sara attempt to discover what makes chardonnay so popular with both producers and consumers, and why it is Ontario's signature grape. Value is always part of the equation, and John also makes a bold prediction on future pricing. Join us with a glass and get prepped for the upcoming i4C, the 11th edition of the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration on July 23rd in Niagara, which showcases Ontario's finest in a global context. This episode was produced in partnership with VQA Wine Country Ontario.
An episode devoted to a few lesser known topics relations to New York Wines including growing in the Hudson River Region, Lake Erie and the burgeoning urban winery scene. An historic growing region, the Hudson River Region is one of the oldest established AVAs in the US having received the designation in 1982. It's also home to the oldest commercial vineyard and the oldest continuously active winery, Brotherhood Winery (1839), having survived prohibition by making sacramental wine. Only a 45-minute drive from Manhattan, grape growing takes place largely on the western shores of the Hudson River Valley that stretch from just south of Albany to just north of the city, following the path of the river to its end in the Atlantic Ocean. We'll also take a look at the grapes grown on the southern shores of Lake Erie and although largely for juice and table grapes, also by a growing number of wineries. Who says you can't make wine in big cites? The fact that there are no vineyards in the city doesn't seem to inconvenience the swelling number of intrepid New York urban winery owners who source their grapes largely from Long Island and the Finger Lakes. John and Sara investigate the challenges of trucking grapes in from nearby wine regions, the relationships they develop with growers and how they virtually transport city-folk into New York State vineyards. All this and more in this 5th and final episode of the New York wine podcast series.Joining the Thieves in a round table discussion are Matthew Spaccarelli of Fjord Vineyards in the Hudson Valley, Mario Mazza of Mazza Wines in Lake Erie, Colleen and Sebastian Hardy of Living Roots in Rochester and Christopher Nicolson of Red Hook Winery in Brooklyn, New York. This episode was produced in partnership with the New York Grape & Wine Foundation.
The Wine Thieves are back in Europe this spring, the ideal time of year to rediscover Portugal's Vinho Verde. Crisp, delicately perfumed, dry to off-dry, low in alcohol and sometimes with the merest prickle of effervescence, these are classic descriptors of this northern Portuguese specialty (and mostly white, but there are rosé and red versions, too).But as we'll discover, there is a great deal more to Vinho Verde than just refreshing spring sips. The Minho region, where Vinho Verde is made, is divided in to 9 diverse sub-regions, some heavily Atlantic-influenced, others further inland and sheltered. From Monção and Melgaço to Paiva, as these sub-appellations become more frequent on the label, John and Sara take a deep dive into their distinctive features including the rivers they flank, the grapes in which they specialize, and the changes we can expect on the labels this very vintage.And from modern, varietally-specific labelling to traditional field blends, the Thieves investigate the range of styles within Vinho Verde. Alvarinho may be unrivalled in its fame but local varieties such as Avesso, and Loureiro (Sara's favourite to pronounce) are worthy bearers of the Vinho Verde flag. Let's not forget the red wines of Vinho Verde based on Vinhão, along with rosés and sparkling wines that are less likely to be found in export. Manuel Pinheiro, President of the Vinho Verde Commission, is this week's special guest as we unravel Vinho Verde, and also reflect on some of the more human aspects of the wine business, like the family and community bonding, and the creation of traditions that bring and bind people together, which winegrowing makes possible. This episode is a perfect listening match with sunning at the lake or grilling sardines this weekend.Tchau!This episode was produced in partnership with the Vinho Verde Commission (CRVV).
Continuing their journey through New York, John and Sara take a deeper dive into the red wines grown across the state in search of an elusive flagship variety. The Thieves make the call that New York's signature red grape must surely be cabernet franc, even if their wine producing friends are reluctant to say it themselves. Merlot may be more widely planted but it remains a Long Island specialty, pinot noir demands ultra-specific sites, cool syrah shows great promise but lacks critical mass for now, blaufränkisch performs admirably but is a mouthful to say (and its synonym, Lemberger, is not particualrly attractive), and grenache, well, remains quixotic at best. One thing's for sure, New York winemakers don't like to be boxed in, which is why we see such tremendous diversity in the varieties planted and wine styles emerging from the state's 7 distinctive wine regions.Our guests this episode are Josh Wig, co-owner of Lamoreaux Landing, a family-owned cabernet franc specialist located on the east side of Seneca Lake of the Finger Lakes, also specialists in grape-fed venison, Master Sommelier Christopher Bates, co-owner of Element Winery in the Finger Lakes, a high-intervention cook and low-intervention winemaker, and Christopher Tracy of Channing Daughters on Long Island, who talks field blends and the importance of diversity and expanding along with the universe. Join us with a glass of cabernet franc, merlot, pinot noir or Lemberger (scratch that, blaufränkisch) in hand as we discuss the where and the how of the reds that New York does best.
May 7th is Sauvignon Blanc day but we'll be celebrating all week! Join the Wine Thieves at ground zero for new world sauvignon blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand. John and Sara explore its rise to prominence from the first plantings in the 1970s, through to its explosion on the international scene in the 1990s, and now to the current ‘third wave' (a good third wave, that is) of producers that are breaking rules and leading the country in new stylistic directions.Joining the discussion is James Healy, co-founder with Ivan Sutherland, of Dog Point wines in Marlborough. James was chief winemaker at Cloudy Bay in the 1990s before striking out on his own, and thus really was at ground zero of the New Zealand and Marlborough sauvignon blanc international explosion that occurred in the mid-1990s. He tells us about a new initiative called Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) and its importance and gaining prominence. We're also joined by Matt Deller, Master of Wine and Chief Global Sales & Marketing Officer for the Villa Maria group founded by Sir George Fistonich in the middle of last century in Auckland. 'Villa', as it's known, has grown to be one of the larger and most admired players in the NZ wine industry, and Matt discusses the company's commitment to organics and sub-appellations. In the final segment of the show, the Thieves welcome Erica Crawford of Loveblock winery and the co-creator, with husband Kim, of the hugely successful Kim Crawford brand, which they sold a decade and a half ago to Constellation Brands. Erica falls in love with sauvignon all over again making wines in the style she loves to drink, shares insight into the rapid commercial success of New Zealand sauvignon blanc, praises Lord of the Rings, and reveals how high grade tea powder might just change winemaking for the better. Grab a well chilled glass of crunchy sauvignon and settle in to a great discussion. This episode was produced in partnerships with New Zealand Winegrowers.
The Wine Thieves' weakness for riesling compels them to tarry a little longer in the Finger Lakes region of New York (FLX). Riesling has become a signature grape of FLX, home to 85% of all the riesling planted in New York State. Here it delivers electric, laser-sharp wines the way we like them, bone-dry to sweet, from steep, lakeside slopes on gravelly, shaley, and loamy soils. In this episode, the Thieves get to the bottom of why riesling grows so well here, explore the divergent styles, discuss diversity vs. commonality of wines, and audaciously ask winemakers whether they think riesling should be the only grape variety planted in the Finger Lakes. You may be surprised by their answers!John and Sara welcome four FLX riesling rangers who showcase the camaraderie and bonhomie they've come to expect from New York winemakers: Rick Rainey of Forge Cellars, who focuses on vineyard-designated, bone-dry rieslings with a less-is-more winemaking approach, Oskar Bynke of the biodynamic Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard with a legacy that dates back to the '60s and the earliest days of vinifera plantings, Peter Bell of Fox Run, a Toronto-born terroir skeptic yet riesling fanatic, whose 1984 plantings are located on the east-facing slopes of Seneca Lake, and Bruce Murray of Boundary Breaks on Seneca, who doesn't discriminate when it comes to styles of riesling and has time for them all. Lastly, and importantly, learn why the sight of Canadians on bicycles is one of the most dreaded in all of New York wine country. You won't want to miss this very entertaining episode of Wine Thieves!
Last fall we interviewed some of the exceptional speakers of the Femmes du Vin Harvest Series and we are delighted to be able to present them to you now. Femmes du Vin is a grassroots women's organization dedicated to promoting and amplifying the voices of all women in wine. Visit femmesduvin.org to find out more about their upcoming seminar series. In this episode we welcome two special guests: Femmes du Vin founder, new mom and award-winning sommelier Emily Pearce, who tells us about the importance of elevating the position of women in the field of sommellerie, some of her wins and challenges in the industry, as well as how to access the replays of all the enriching Femmes du Vin sessions to date. Our second guest is Michelle Bouffard, a wine judge, critic, educator, speaker, author, founder of Tasting Climate Change, an MW student and a musician! The environmental impact of the wine industry, how you can help off-set your travelling lifestyle and the Tasting Climate Change conference are all on the docket of this conversation. Join us for this long-awaited episode of Wine Thieves! [Emily Pearce interview: 02:32, Michelle Bouffard interview: 21:06] To access videos of the Harvest Seminars sessions, visit: https://www.femmesduvin.org/harvest-seminar-videos
The Wine Thieves continue their journey through New York, venturing into the best known wine region of the 4th largest wine producing state in the USA, the Finger Lakes AVA. Encompassing 11 slender, glacially carved, finger-like lakes running roughly north-south, this diverse region may be best known for its riesling, but John and Sara discover just how many more grape varieties are actually planted. From widely-praised cabernet franc, to delicate pinot noir, stony chardonnay, plus grüner veltliner, blaufränkisch, saperavi, rkatsitelli and many more, Finger Lakes vintners have not finished experimenting just yet. We'll turn back time to the earliest days of vinifera plantings in New York State by stubborn visionaries Dr. Konstantin Frank and Hermann Wiemer, delve into the importance of site specificity, as keen here or even more so than anywhere else on planet wine, and open the discussion of hybrids (and native American vines) and their sustainable merits, among other enlightening subjects.The Thieves welcome a round table of special guests: Kelby Russel of Red Newt, Meaghan Frank of Dr. Konstantin Frank Wines, Dave Breeden of Sheldrake Point and John Wagner of Wagner Vineyards to help navigate the waters of the surprisingly vast Finger Lakes AVA (1 million acres!) and its sub-AVAs, Seneca and Cayuga Lakes. The Loire, Alsace, Mosel and Burgundy are all referenced in attempt to contextualize Finger Lakes wine styles. Sara and John also tap into some historical similarities to the neighbouring Niagara wine region of Ontario. You won't want to miss this week's acid-driven episode of Wine Thieves!