Bande à part

We had to take a little break this week so are offering a repost of our musings about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-b…-9781350026605/

We talk about an inspiring discussion between Priya Ahluwalia, Es Devlin and Gaika, chaired by Daze Aghaji about ‘creativity in a time of crisis'. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Imagining the Impossible: Creativity in a time of Crisis', Barbican (16 June 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/imagining-the-impossible-creativity-in-a-time-of-crisis Our Time on Earth, The Curve, Barbican (5 May - 29 Aug 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/our-time-on-earth https://ahluwalia.world/ https://esdevlin.com/ https://gaika.warp.net/ https://www.instagram.com/dazeaghaji

We discuss Jean Harlow's amazing star persona, as seen in ‘Platinum Blonde' and ‘Dinner at Eight'. See links below. We'd love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Frank Capra (director), Edward Stevenson (costume design), ‘Platinum Blonde' (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0022268/ George Cukor (director), Adrian (gowns), ‘Dinner at Eight' (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/ Robert Mack (director), ‘Come to Dinner' (1934) https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7p71yv Richard Dyer, ‘White' (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044# George Hurrell, Jean Harlow (1934): https://lagunaartmuseum.org/artwork/jean-harlow/ Brassaï (Gyula Halász), La Môme Bijou, Bar de la Lune, Montmartre (1932) : https://www.moma.org/collection/works/58840 RuPaul's Drag Race's 28 Days of Drag: 2/2 Snatch Game Sunday (2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMA5MHvA3zA

We catch up with all that's been happening - and discuss Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy and Elizabeth Wilson's new book 'Unfolding the Past'. See links below. We'd love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Unravelling Threads: Tracing and Transforming Violence and Trauma through Fashion, Conference, The Courtauld Institute / LCF (6-7 May 2022): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/unravelling-threads-tracing-and-transforming-violence-and-trauma-though-fashion/ Documenting Fashion Blog: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Ruslan Blaginsky: https://www.instagram.com/ruslanbaginskiy_hats/ and https://ruslanbaginskiy.com/ Elizabeth Wilson, ‘Unfolding the Past', Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/unfolding-the-past-9781350232617/ ‘Dressed: 7 Women – 200 Years of Fashion', MK&G, Hamburg (25 February – 28 August 2022): https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/en/exhibitions/dressed Charlie Porter,'What Artists Wear', Penguin (2021): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/314/314590/what-artists-wear/9780141991252.html

In our season finale we discuss Ralph Lauren's special edition Polo collection conceived in collaboration with Spelman and Morehouse colleges, and play another round of our favourite game 'If I was a …', this time focused on fashion illustration. New season premiere: 22 May. See links below. Robin Givhan, ‘The Battle of Versailles' (2015): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250052902/thebattleofversailles Robin Givhan, ‘Ralph Lauren revises his vision of the American Dream, inspired by the style of HBCUs', The Washington Post (15 March 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/03/15/ralph-lauren-morehouse-spelman-hbcu/ The Crisis, Modernist Journals Project: https://modjourn.org/journal/crisis/ https://www.instagram.com/anfeargorm4/ Bea Feitler after Joe Eula, ‘Lauren Bacall and the Boys', 1968: https://www.si.edu/object/lauren-bacall-and-boys%3Anpg_NPG.2007.161 Francesca Gavin, ‘The Pioneering Female Art Director You've Never Heard Of', AnOther (8 September 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/10134/the-pioneering-female-art-director-youve-never-heard-of Joe Eula (director), The Paris Collections: Fall Fashion Preview (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1596760/ ‘Lauren Bacall: The Look', FIT, New York (3 March 2015 – 4 April 2015): https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/lauren-bacall/exhibition/#grid-page Eric (Carl Erickson), Evening blouse, Hattie Carnegie, for Vogue (1943)

We talk about the joys of archival research and marvel at Mervyn Le Roy's Depression-era musical ‘Gold Diggers of 1933'. Westminster Archives: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/leisure-libraries-and-community/westminster-archives Historical Directories of England and Wales: http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4 and http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4/custom/background Gaston and Andrée Exerciser: http://www.kraveantiques.co.uk/products/Gaston-Andree-Exerciser-1897.html Rogue Fitness, ‘The Rogue Legends Series – Chapter 1: Eugen Sandow / 8K' (25 May 2017): https://youtu.be/S-nPD2__e0E Mervyn LeRoy (director), Orry-Kelly (gowns), ‘Gold Diggers of 1933' (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/ Orry-Kelly, ‘Women I've Undressed: The Fabulous Life and Times of a Legendary Hollywood Designer', Allen & Unwin (2016): https://atlantic-books.co.uk/book/women-ive-undressed/ Mordaunt Hall, ‘Warren William, Aline MacMahon and Guy Kibbee in a Musical Conception of “The Gold Diggers”', New York Times (8 June 1933): https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1933/06/08/105141704.html Library of Congress, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives: https://www.loc.gov/collections/fsa-owi-black-and-white-negatives/about-this-collection/ Paul Dickson and Thomas B. Allen, ‘Marching on History', Smithsonian Magazine (February 2003): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/marching-on-history-75797769/

Beatrice takes Rebecca through every stage necessary in turning an item of clothing into a museum object. See links below. https://www.rotring.com/ Emily Spivack, ‘A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop', Smithsonian Magazine (28 December 2012): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ Collections Trust, ‘Spectrum-related resources': https://collectionstrust.org.uk/spectrum-resources/ Collections Trust ‘Standards in the museum care of costume and textile collections': https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/standards-in-the-museum-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ Western Australian Museum, ‘Freezing Objects' (30 June 2017): https://youtu.be/JSFmC6-K5nA Museum of London, ‘How to Store a Wedding Dress' (16 September 2013): https://youtu.be/eHcQug5ZJd4

While we take a little mid season break let's revisit our 100th episode about the fabulous clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger's 1948 film ‘The Red Shoes'. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800 Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

We talk about the fabulous Gladys Perint Palmer whose fashion drawings were shown in an exhibition curated by Gray MCA. See links below. ‘A fine Line in Fashion: The Art of Gladys Perint Palmer', Gray MCA, Cromwell Place, London (15-20 February 2022): https://graymca.com/ Gray MCA, ‘In the Studio with Gladys Perint Palmer' (11 September 2021): https://vimeo.com/602673726 Gladys Perint Palmer: https://gladysperintpalmer.com/ Paris in Love (2021): https://youtu.be/CUS8XatG1HY The Courtauld, Prints and Drawings: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/the-collection/prints-and-drawings/ Charles Baudelaire, ‘The Painter of Modern Life' (originally published in 1863): https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/French/BaudelaireThePainterOfModernLife.php

We talk about the powerful and moving Second World War and Holocaust Galleries at the Imperial War Museum. See links below. Imperial War Museum, London: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-london Second World War Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/second-world-war-galleries The Holocaust Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/the-holocaust-galleries https://www.iwm.org.uk/support-us/donations/second-world-war-and-holocaust-galleries Jonathan Freedland, ‘Imperial War Museum Holocaust Galleries review – history's greatest horror', The Guardian (11 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2021/oct/11/imperial-war-museum-london-holocaust-gallery-review ‘The Holocaust Galleries - Imperial War Museum, London', Casson Mann (2021): https://www.cassonmann.com/projects/holocaust-galleries Vikki Hawkins, ‘Displaying marginalised and “hidden” histories at the Imperial War Museum London: The Second World War gallery regeneration project', War & Society, Volume 39, Issue 3 (2020): https://doi.org/10.1080/07292473.2020.1786895 Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/west-smithfield/relocation-west-smithfield

We talk about Nadya Wang's brilliant analysis of the work of photographer Yip Cheong Fun and the amazing style of Cab Calloway and the Nicholas Brothers. See links below. Nadya Wang, ‘Framing the Body: Yip Cheong Fun and Singapore Photography in the 1960s and 1970s', part of ‘Addressing Images, The Courtauld (28 January 2022): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0grnWoBZXok Fred Waller (director), Cab Calloway's Hi-De-Ho (1933): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109262-Cab-Calloway's-Hi-De-Ho and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spBLdH5mtyk Fred Waller (director), Jitterbug Party (1934): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109355-Jitterbug-Party and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMQVZYoNWIw Billy Wilder (director), Some Like It Hot (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053291/ Andrew L. Stone (director), Helen Rose (costume design), Stormy Weather (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036391/ Clip from Stormy Weather (1943): https://cabcallowayfoundation.org/cab-calloway-bill-robinson-nicholas-brothers-stormy-weather/ Cab Calloway at the Smithsonian: https://www.si.edu/search/collection-images?edan_local=&edan_q=cab%2Bcalloway& Cab Calloway on the Zoot Suit, Docs & Interviews on MV (20 March 1986): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-3JuVFJrY8 Dave Fleischer (director), Willard Bowsky and Ralph Somerville (animators), Betty Boob - Minnie The Moocher (1932): https://youtu.be/N7VUU_VPI1E

We talk about London's Fashion & Textile Museum's exhibition: ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture'. See links below. Don't forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture', Fashion & Textile Museum, London (1 October 2021 - 13 March 2022): https://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitions/beautiful-people-the-boutique-in-1960s-counterculture Mark Butterfield, ‘Granny Takes A Trip, Golden Lily Jacket, 1966', C20 Vintage Fashion (20 September 2020): https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/post/granny-takes-a-trip-golden-lily-jacket-1966 and other posts: https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/blog The Peter Feely Experience, Perfumed Garden Productions, YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZKLKwxbpv1vc9lfBO0kAw/featured Malcolm Hall: http://malcolmhall.london/gallery/#category_id_48 Paul Reeves: https://www.instagram.com/paul_reeves_london/ Marisa Martin: https://www.marisamartin.com/tutors.html Raphael Samuel, ‘Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture', Verso (first published 1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory

We talk about Lucy Moyse Ferreira's fascinating, recently launched book ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars'. See links below. Don't forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Robin Givhan, ‘André Leon Talley became an icon by never losing faith in the glory of fashion', Washington Post (19 January 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/01/19/andre-leon-talley-appreciation/ André Leon Talley, ‘A.L.T.: A Memoir' (Villlard 2003) André Leon Talley, ‘The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir', read by ATM (Penguin Random House 2020): https://www.penguinrandomhouseaudio.com/book/609773/the-chiffon-trenches/ ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street', The Photographers' Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Lucy Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars' (Bloomsbury Publishing 2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126282/ Lucy Moyse Ferreira: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/ual-staff-researchers/lucy-moyse-ferreira

We delve into Jacques Demy's weird, psychedelic fairy story ‘Peau d'âne' (1970) and wonder about its many meanings. See links below. Don't forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Jacques Demy (director), Agostino Pace (costume design), Gitt Magrini (costume realisation), Peau d'âne (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Charles Perrault, ‘Donkey Skin', from: Charles Perrault, ‘Old-Time Stories told by Master Charles Perrault', translated by A. E. Johnson, New York: Dodd Mead and Company (1921): https://sites.pitt.edu/~dash/perrault11.html Charles Perrault, ‘Contes des fees ...' (1817): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f181.item and https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f206.item Célia Bellache, ‘Les costumes et décors de Peau d'Âne de Jacques Demy', Florilèges (2 January 2021): https://florilegeswebjournal.com/2021/01/02/les-costumes-et-decors-de-peau-dane-de-jacques-demy/ Rodney Hill, ‘Donkey Skin (Peau d'âne)', Film Quarterly, 59/2 (Winter 2005/2006): https://doi.org/10.1525/fq.2005.59.2.40 Anne E. Duggan, ‘The Camping of “Donkey Skin”: Jacques Demy's Cinematic Re-Vision of a Classic Tale', in: Queer Enchantments: Gender Sexuality, and Class in the Fairy-Tale Cinema of Jacques Demy, Wayne State University Press (2013) Natalie Olah, ‘Jim Leon', Dazed (28 October 2012): https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/14960/1/jim-leon Videos relating to the filming of Peau d'âne: https://www.cinematheque.fr/zooms/demy/en/toutes_les_videos.php Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch' (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ Taking care of your Lederhosen: https://www.spieth-wensky.de/trachtentrends/lederhosenhandbuch/

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier's obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas' and why it led him into fashion design. See links below. Don't forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/ ‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier', Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker's Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release', The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/ See also our previous episode (132) about Falbalas: https://soundcloud.com/bande-a-part-rb/132-falbalas

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain's 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin'. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin' (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d'Or et les Apaches' (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop ‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier', Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth', Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Interiors of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/search/e008f4b4-ecad-4d93-bd41-b60d11acad52 Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ John Julius Norwich (ed), The Duff Cooper Diaries: 1915-1951, Weidenfeld & Nicholson (2006): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/john-julius-norwich/the-duff-cooper-diaries/9780753821053/ Hebe (née Constance Irene Vesselier, later Mrs Kingsland): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp123322/hebe-ne-constance-irene-vesselier-later-mrs-kingsland Eve And Everybody's Film Review: http://bufvc.ac.uk/newsonscreen/search/index.php/series/80 Jenny Hammerton, ‘For Ladies Only? Eve's Film Review: Pathe Cinemagazine 1921-33', Projection Box (2001) Perspex Samples: https://www.hindleys.com/perspex-samples.html Christmas Trees, Cox & Cox: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/christmas/christmas-trees/

We talk about the amazing costume designer Sandy Powell who recently talked about her work at the Victoria & Albert Museum. See links below. We'd also love you to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast You Must Remember This, ‘Gossip Girls: Louella Parsons and Hedda Hopper (The Queer, Female Film Producer You've Never Heard Of, Episode 5)', (31 May 2021): http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/episodes/2021/5/5/gossip-girls-queer-film-producer-5 Walter Lang (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard's gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘Love Before Breakfast' (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027908/ Gregory La Cava (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard's gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘My Man Godfrey' (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/ Richard Dyer, ‘White', Routledge (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044 Past event: ‘Online Talk: Sandy Powell in Conversation', Victoria & Albert Museum (7 November 2021): https://www.vam.ac.uk/event/awz4mQnapkN/online-talk-sandy-powell-in-conversation Sandy Powell: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0694309/ Sandy Powell's Autograph Suit auctioned at Phillips in 2020: https://www.phillips.com/detail/sandy-powell/UK090320/1 The Female Lead: https://www.thefemalelead.com/about-us Piere Bourdieu, Yvette Delsaut, ‘Le couturier et sa griffe: contribution à une théorie de la magie', Actes de la Recherche en Siences Sociales (1-1, 1975): https://www.persee.fr/doc/arss_0335-5322_1975_num_1_1_2447 Colleen Kelsey, ‘Fashioning Sandy Powell', Interview (18 February 2016): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/sandy-powell ‘Behind the Seams: An interview with Sandy Powell', podcast episode (7 June 2020): https://www.angelsbehindtheseams.com/podcast/episode0010/ ‘Emily Blunt on the costumes of “Mary Poppins Returns”', Variety Artisans (20 December 2018): https://youtu.be/BiYgPfpjSCk Julie Miller, ‘How Sandy Powell, Oscar-Winning Costume Designer, Ventured Outside Her Comfort Zone', Vanity Fair (6 November 2017): https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/11/wonderstruck-sandy-powell ‘The Rake's Progress: An Introduction', Glyndebourne (23 August 2010) – shows David Hockney's designs: https://youtu.be/DxeeWlp4AZ8 Alex Marshall, ‘Lindsay Kemp, Dancer Who Taught David Bowie, Is Dead at 80', New York Times (29 August 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/29/obituaries/lindsay-kemp-dead.html ‘Lindsay Kemp Dies at 80', Gramilano (25 August 2018): https://www.gramilano.com/2018/08/lindsay-kemp-dies-at-80/ Kazuo Ono, ‘The Dead Sea' (1980s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUjhQLB0hXY

Even super-heroes sometimes need a little break ... This week we are reposting our discussion from about a year ago of John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave', produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings', BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

We talk about the thought-provoking exhibition of Helen Levitt's work at the Photographer's Gallery in London. See links below. ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street', The Photographers' Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Photographers' Gallery, ‘Helen Levitt: In The Street - Interview with exhibition curators Walter Moser & Anna Dannemann' (26 October 2021): https://youtu.be/IfvaZBoIuYw Helen Levitt, Janice Loeb, James Agee, ‘In The Street' (1948), The Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://youtu.be/hznvV2bBkX4?t=194 ‘Tomorrow is Ragamuffin Day', New York Genealogical and Biographical Society (23 November 2016): https://www.newyorkfamilyhistory.org/blog/tomorrow-ragamuffin-day Vincente Minelli (director), Irene (costume supervisor), ‘Meet Me in St. Louis' (1944): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0037059/ ‘Helen Levitt's Indelible Eye', All Things Considered, National Public Radio (17 January 2002): https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1136521 (interview with Helen Levitt by Melissa Block) Hamleys: https://www.hamleys.com/ Wilterminus, ‘The Sound of dial-up Internet' (10 November 2008): https://youtu.be/gsNaR6FRuO0

In our Halloween Special, we learn how magic and fashion combine in Anna Biller's fabulous technicolour extravaganza ‘The Love Witch'. See links below. Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch' (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ ‘#8 - Anna Biller, Filmmaker of “The Love Witch”, a conversation with Pam Grossman of The Witch Wave (31 January 2018): https://witchwavepodcast.com/episodes/2018/1/31/anna-biller-filmmaker-of-the-love-witch Emma Willis (key makeup artist): https://www.instagram.com/emmawillishmu/ Jester Puppet: Barry Morse https://www.instagram.com/barry_morse_artist/ Jacques Demy (director), Gitt Magrini (costume design), ‘Peau d'âne' (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘The Secret Life of the Arrow Collar Man, an Early 20th-Century Sex Symbol', Vogue (12 June 2017): https://www.vogue.com/article/pride-2017-leyendecker-arrow-collar-man-sex-symbol Rains: https://www.uk.rains.com/collections/bags

We talk about the V&A's fantastical exhibition ‘Alice: Curioser and Curioser' about the influence of Lewis Carroll's novel ‘Alice's Adventures in Wonderland'. See links below. ‘Alice: Curioser and Curioser', Victoria & Albert Museum, London (to 31 December 2021); https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser Jonathan Jones, ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser review – a wonderful tumble down the rabbit hole', The Guardian (18 May 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2021/may/18/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-victoria-and-albert-museum-london Claire Marie Healy, ‘How Alice in Wonderland Became Visual Culture's Proto-Teenage Girl', AnOther (21 May 2021): https://www.anothermag.com/design-living/13338/how-alice-in-wonderland-became-visual-culture-s-proto-teenage-girl Tim Spears, ‘alice: curioser and curioser preview in wonderland at V&A museum, london', designboom (21 May 2021): https://www.designboom.com/art/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-exhibition-preview-va-museum-london-05-21-2021/ Jonathan Miller (director), Kenneth Morey (costume design), ‘Alice in Wonderland' (1966): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060089/ Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘“Alice in Wonderland” Shoot With Annie Leibovitz and Grace Coddington, on Episode 6 of In Vogue: The 2000s' (12 October 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/in-vogue-the-2000s-podcast-episode-6 Laura Connelly, ‘Tim Walker inspired by Alice in Wonderland for Pirelli Calendar's 45th edition', Creative Boom (22 November 2017): https://www.creativeboom.com/inspiration/tim-walker-inspired-by-alice-in-wonderland-for-pirelli-calendars-45th-edition/

We talk about the fascinating photographs of Namsa Leuba and what we learned from her recent online conversation with Nomusa Makhubu, organised by London's Photographers' Gallery. See links below. http://www.namsaleuba.com/ Artist Talk: Namsa Leuba, Photographers' Gallery, London (12 October 2021): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/artist-talk-namsa-leuba Miss Rosen, ‘Namsa Leuba's kaleidoscopic photographs explore the politics of the gaze', Dazed (13 October 2021): https://www.dazeddigital.com/art-photography/article/54348/1/namsa-leuba-kaleidoscopic-photographs-explore-politics-of-the-gaze-crossed-looks Namsa Leuba, ‘Crossed Looks', Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art at The College of Charleston (27 August – 11 December 2021): https://halsey.cofc.edu/main-exhibitions/crossed-looks/ Helen Jennings, ‘Namsa Leuba', Nataal (2016): https://nataal.com/namsa-leuba Esther Mahlangu, South African History Online (2015/2021): https://www.sahistory.org.za/people/esther-mahlangu

We talk about the Brixton films of Clovis Salmon, aka Sam the Wheels, celebrated at a recent event which included a filmed portrait of ‘Super Sam' by Sandi Hudson-Francis. See links below. And ... we are on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Sam The Wheels – Local Brixton films 1960-2008: https://www.samthewheels.co.uk/ ‘Jesus Saves' film at Mutiny Arts: http://www.mutinyarts.co.uk/jesussaves ‘”I went wherever there was fighting”: how Sam the Wheels filmed Brixton ablaze', The Guardian (4 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2021/oct/04/everything-burn-sam-wheels-filmed-brixton-ablaze-uprisings-black-britain-clovis-salmon Sandi Hudson-Francis (director), ‘Super Sam' (2021): https://www.sandihudsonfrancis.com/film/super-sam-trailer 198 Contemporary Arts & Learning: https://www.198.org.uk/ ‘Sam the Wheels - The Great Conflict, Brixton Riots & other films (24 February – 22 April 2017): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/the-great-conflict-brixton-riots-other-films ‘Sam the Wheels', The Anthill Social: http://theanthillsocial.co.uk/archive/samthewheels/ Carol Tulloch, ‘The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives and the African Diaspora', Bloomsbury (2016): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/birth-of-cool-9781474262873/

We talk about Clint Ramos' fabulous costume designs for ‘Respect', the film about Aretha Franklin – played by Jennifer Hudson – and directed by Liesl Tommy. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Thebe Magugu: https://www.instagram.com/thebemagugu/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/tv/CUaJESrgo9J/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Liesl Tommy (director), Clint Ramos (costume designer), ‘Respect' (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2452150/ ‘Respect' microsite: https://www.universalpictures.co.uk/micro/respect Erica Gonazles, ‘Aretha Franklin Used Clothing for Protection, to Take Up Space, and to Make Herself Heard', Harpers Bazaar (13 August 2021): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a37280291/aretha-franklin-respect-costumes/ Liam Freeman, ‘Respect Costume Designer Clint Ramos on Aretha Franklin's soulful style', Vogue (11 August 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/respect-costume-designer-clint-ramos-aretha-franklin-style Alan Elliott, Sydney Pollack (directors): ‘Amazing Grace' (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4935462/ ABC News Special, ‘Aretha Franklin Close Up' (1968): https://youtu.be/toUteDkwcb0 Aretha Franklin, ‘Don't Play That Song', Live on the Cliff Richard Show (1970): https://youtu.be/EtTn5aLXZZg Aretha Franklin at Julien's Auctions: https://www.julienslive.com/search?key=aretha%20franklin

We talk about Rebecca's visit to the wonderful ‘Drawing on Style' fashion illustration exhibition curated by Gray M.C.A. at Cromwell Place in London. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Drawing on Style', hosted by Gray M.C.A, Wing Gallery (16 – 26 September 2021): https://cromwellplace.com/whats-on/drawing-on-style Gray M.C.A., Bath: https://graymca.com/ Poppy Waddilove: https://poppywaddilove.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ Victoria Thorne: https://www.instagram.com/victoriathorne/ Jimmie Henslee: https://www.instagram.com/hensleejimmie/ L Gazette du Bon Ton and other French fashion magazines: https://gallica.bnf.fr/html/und/presse-et-revues/presse-de-mode?mode=desktop ProQuest Historical Newspapers – Black Newspapers: https://about.proquest.com/en/products-services/histnews-bn/ The Afro Archives: https://www.afro.com/archives/ Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock', Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/

We discuss Kim K's Met Gala outfit which made anonymity spectacular, and Rebecca's recent essay on Kanye for MoMu's ‘E/Motion: Fashion in Transition' exhibition catalogue. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘E/Motion. Fashion in Transition', MoMu, Antwerp (4 September 2021 – 23 January 2022): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/emotion-en Elisa de Wyngaert, Rebecca Arnold, Caroline Evans, ‘Emotion' (2021): https://www.lannoopublishers.com/en/emotion-0 www.jackienickerson.com and https://www.instagram.com/jackie_nickerson/ ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion', Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (18 September 2021 – 22 September 2022): https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2021/in-america

We marvel at the brightly coloured resort wear in Agnes Varda's 1958 film ‘Du Côté de la Côte' shot in the beautiful south of France. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Charlotte Perriand: The Modern Life', official catalogue of the exhibition of the same name at the Design Museum, London (ended 5 September 2021): https://designmuseumshop.com/products/charlotte-perriand-the-modern-life-exhibition-catalogue La Revue de Cinéma: https://www.instagram.com/larevuedecinema Agnes Varda (director), Du Côté de la Côte (Along the Coast) (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051561/ and https://www.criterionchannel.com/du-cote-de-la-cote Darragh O'Donoghue, ‘Du côté de la côte', Senses of Cinema (June 2014): https://www.sensesofcinema.com/2014/cteq/du-cote-de-la-cote/

We discuss the beautiful exhibition of photographs by James Barnor at the Serpentine Gallery in London. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Check out our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘James Barnor: Accra/London – A Retrospective', Serpentine Gallery, London (19 May – 24 October 2021): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/whats-on/james-barnor/ ‘Portraits of the Future: A Celebration of James Barnor' (31 March 2021): https://youtu.be/AqhWdoMOWTQ ‘James Barnor: Ghanaian Modernist', Bristol Museum & Art Gallery (18 May – 31 October 2021): https://www.bristolmuseums.org.uk/bristol-museum-and-art-gallery/whats-on/bristol-photo-festival-james-barnor-ghanaian-modernist/ Autograph, ‘James Barnor: Ever Young' (12 June 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/blog/james-barnor-ever-young-newspaper/ (free download of Autograph's James Barnor exhibition newspaper) ‘Ever Young: James Barnor', Autograph (2010): https://vimeo.com/50701534 ‘Drum Magazine', South African History Online (not dated): https://www.sahistory.org.za/article/drum-magazine Maria Stepanova (translated by Sasha Dugdale), ‘In Memory of Memory', Fitzcarraldo Editions (2021) Dan Hancox, ‘Inner City Pressure: The Story of Grime', Harper Collins (2019): https://harpercollins.co.uk/products/inner-city-pressure-the-story-of-grime-dan-hancox Isaac Mirahi, ‘I.M.', Flatiron Books (2020): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250077820

We discuss the wonderful morning we spent with designer Omer Asim and his collaborator Maya Antoun - looking at their beautiful and inspiring work that unites body and fabric in sensual minimalist forms. See links below. We are going to have a break and will be back in September. Have a great summer! http://www.omer-asim.com https://www.instagram.com/omer_asim https://www.instagram.com/maya.antoun/ Omer Asim, SHOWstudio: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/omer_asim Jenny Pashkova, ‘Omer Asim', Off Black Magazine (2014): http://offblackmagazine.com/archive/archives/project/omer-asim Helen Jennings, ‘Omer Asim', Nataal (2017): https://nataal.com/omer-asim ‘Omer Asim: The Stealth SuperBrand', because magazine (17 June 2020): https://becauselondon.com/fashion/2020/omer-asim-shining-bright-under-the-radar/ Marie Grace Brown, ‘Khartoum at Night: Fashion and Body Politics in Imperial Sudan', Stanford University Press (2017): https://www.sup.org/books/title/?id=25840 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism', in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf

We discuss Chusheng Cai's fascinating 1932 film ‘Pink Dream' - which shows us the opulent world of Shanghai dance halls …. See links below. ‘Constance Spry and the Fashion for Flowers', Garden Museum (17 May – 26 September 2021): https://gardenmuseum.org.uk/exhibitions/constancespry/ ‘Noël Coward: Art & Style', Guildhall Art Gallery (14 June – 23 December 2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward St Olave Hart Street, London, Atlas Obscura: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/st-olave-hart-street Chusheng Cai (director), Pink Dream [aka Dream in Pink] (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1128062/ Available here: https://archive.org/details/1932pinkdream and https://youtu.be/BuY7pW1dblw Chusheng Cai (director), New Women (1935): https://youtu.be/9Q4zhLxCBro Ernst Lubitsch (director), The Love Parade (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020112/ (with Jeannette MacDonald) ‘A Good Summary Account of Shanghai's Dance Hall Industry in 1937', Shanghai Sojourns: The Website of Andrew David Field (2018): http://shanghaisojourns.net/shanghais-dancing-world/2018/8/2/a-good-summary-account-of-shanghais-dance-hall-industry-in-1937 Lisa Z. Sigel, ‘Fashioning Fetishism from the Pages of “London Life”', Journal of British Studies, Vol. 51, No. 3 (July 2012): https://www.jstor.org/stable/23265599 Ling Long, Shanghai women's magazine (1931-1937): https://archive.org/details/cullinglong Wim Wenders (director), Notebook on Cities and Clothes (1989): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0096852/

We talk about the mesmerising Jean Dubuffet exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery in London and the wonderful works of mediumistic artist Madge Gill. See links below. ‘Chintz: Cotton in Bloom', Fashion and Textile Museum, London (18 May – 12 September 2021): https://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/chintz-cotton-in-bloom/ ‘Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty', Barbican Art Gallery, London (17 May 2021 – 22 August 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2021/event/jean-dubuffet-brutal-beauty Fondation Jean Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/ Audiovisual biography of Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/savie_videolistplayer.php Collection de L'Art Brut, Lausanne: https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/exhibition/dubuffet-art-brut Madge Gill: http://madgegill.com/ and https://worksby-madgegill.co/ Madge Gill, Sans Titre (not dated): https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/author/gill-madge Dress by Madge Gill at MAAS, Sidney (1940s): https://collection.maas.museum/object/167418 Madge Gill, Newham Heritage Month (May 2021): https://www.newhamheritagemonth.org/contributors/madge-gill/

We talk about Zanele Muholi's incredible exhibition at Tate Modern in London. See links below. Zanele Muholi, Tate Modern, London (5 November 2020 – 31 May 2021): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/zanele-muholi Zanele Muholi: In Conversation with Lady Phyll | Artist's Talk | Tate Exchange (18 November 2020): https://youtu.be/4gzzNRKh2vs Zanele Muholi, ‘Katlego Mashiloane and Nosipho Lavuta, Ext. 2, Lakeside, Johannesburg' (2007): https://g.co/arts/VhjExsG7BMXQrLsJA Zanele Muholi, ‘Vuyelwa Vuvu Makubetse Daveyton Johannesburg' (2013): https://www.wellesley.edu/davismuseum/explore-the-collections/recent-acquisitions/vuyelwa-vuvu-makubetse-daveyton-johannesburg Maurice Berger, ‘Zanele Muholi: Paying Homage to the History of Black Women', New York Times (3 December 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/03/lens/zanele-muholi-somnyama-ngonyama-south-africa.html

We discuss the publication of Archivist Addendum - unboxed live on the podcast - and the first title in the new book series Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections: Alison Toplis’s The Hidden History of the Smock Frock. See links below. Archivist Addendum: Fashion Interpretations: https://tenderbooks.co.uk/products/archivist-addendum Fashion Interpretations: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Blaak: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/blaak The Courtauld, ‘Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections Book Series Launch’ (21 May 2021): https://youtu.be/AANXmdpT7aE Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/ Alison Toplis’ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/ Smocks at The Museum of English Rural Life, Reading: https://tinyurl.com/phnumvb6 Luce Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126299/ Alexis Romano: Prêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-1968, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/pret-a-porter-paris-and-women-9781350126190/

We talk about the work involved in preparing dress and textile objects for a museum collection. See links below. Dress and textiles at the Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/collections/about-our-collections/what-we-collect/dress-and-textiles London’s Fashion Alphabet, Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet Kim Philpotts’ 1980s/90s clothes: https://tinyurl.com/79t5zpzn Halima Khanom, ‘What Muslims Wear’, Museum of London (18 March 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/what-muslims-wear Museums and Galleries Commission, ‘An illustrated guide to the care of costume and textile collections’ (2000): https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/an-illustrated-guide-to-the-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ Resources from DATS (Dress & Textile Specialist network) for identifying and cataloguing dress and textiles: https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/dats-toolkits/ and https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/links/

We discuss the new Netflix series on Halston - just how accurate is it? And how will they turn fashion design into entertainment? See links below. Daniel Minahan (director), Jeriana San Juan (costume designer), Halston (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9569546/ Netflix Staff, ‘The Fashion Behind Halston’ (13 May 2021): https://about.netflix.com/en/news/the-fashion-behind-halston Maureen Dowd, ‘Ewan McGregor: Dahling, He’s Halston!’, The New York Times (7 May 2021): https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/07/style/ewan-mcgregor-halston-netflix.html Molly O’Donnell, ‘Jessie Franklin Turner: American Fashion Designer (1881-1956)’, Maine Historical Society (3 December 2019): https://mainehistory.wordpress.com/2019/12/03/jessie-franklin-turner-american-fashion-designer/ Exhibition: ‘Halston and Warhol: Silver and Suede’, The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh (18 May – 24 August 2014): https://www.warhol.org/exhibition/halston-and-warhol-silver-and-suede/ and ... BBC World Service, People Fixing The World, The detection dogs tracking poachers and Covid-19 (27 April 2021): https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p09fsrjh Walter Benjamin, ‘True Dog Stories’, Excerpt from Radio Benjamin (3 December 2014, first broadcast some time between 1927 and 1933): https://hazlitt.net/longreads/true-dog-stories

We discuss the problematics of Mahogany - the 1975 Diana Ross star vehicle that combines fashion, politics and melodrama. See links below. Berry Gordon (director), Diana Ross (costume design), Susan Gertsman (wardrobe coordinator: Ms Ross), Jay Hurley (costumer), Annalisa Nasalli-Rocca (wardrobe supervisor), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Richard Dyer, ‘Diana Ross’, Marxism Today (June 1982): http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/82_06_36a.pdf Success: Richard Dyer on Diana Ross [and Beyond] (1982/2016): https://vimeo.com/150268022 Oybò Untuned Socks: https://www.oybo.it/

We remember Alber Elbaz and his wonderful design sensibility and talk about the amazing jewels on view at Bonhams this week. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ AZ Factory Show Fashion by Alber Elbaz (26 January 2021): https://youtu.be/wssdl8xlZSk AZ Factory: https://www.azfactory.com/ Geoffrey Beene: A Duet of Fashion + Movement, Phoenix Art Museum (2021): http://www.arizonacostumeinstitute.org/geoffrey-beene-virtual-unveiling-fundraiser Loïc Prigent (director), The Day Before: Lanvin (2011): https://distribution.arte.tv/fiche/LANVIN__-_LE_JOUR_D_AVANT and https://youtu.be/FcYDtlQNtWc Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/ John Brogden at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/jewellery-designs#slideshow=93099346&slide=0 Fashion and Fancy Dress (The Messel Family Dress Collection at Brighton Museum): https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/discover/2015/02/26/fashion-and-fancy-dress-2/

We marvel at the amazing hairstyles, hats, handbags, and clothes (designed by Marcel Rochas) in Jacques Becker’s 1945 film Falbalas, set in a Paris couture house. See links below. Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Marcel Rochas: https://www.instagram.com/rochasofficial/ and https://rochas.com/en/in-the-eyes-of-marcel/ Violette Leduc, ‘Cette oeuvre d’art fugitive: Une Vitrine’, Pour Elle (1 January 1942): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4226919w/f9.item (about Annie Beaumel) Alexander Fury, ‘The Fascinating Woman behind Hermès’ Window Displays’, AnOther (9 November 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/10351/the-fascinating-woman-behind-hermes-window-displays (about Annie Beaumel’s ‘pupil’ Leïla Menchari) Recueil. “Falbalas” film de Jacques Becker (1945): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10516145p Marie Claire (15 March 1944): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4701341r/f1.image (cover with hat by Gabrielle) Josée de Luca (director), Alex et Marie (1993) – short film about the hairstylist Alex Archambault who also was behind Simone Signoret’s hairstyle in Jacques Beckers’ ‘Casque d’or’ (1952) Paul Thomas Anderson (director), Mark Bridges (costume design), Phantom Thread (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5776858/

We talk about two films featuring the mesmerising Anna May Wong: Piccadilly (1929) and Daughter of Shanghai (1937). See links below. Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/ Robert Florey (director), Daughter of Shanghai (1937): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028770/ Costume worn by Anna Mae Wong in Daughter of Shanghai: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5634636 Brian Taves, Daughter of Shanghai, Library of Congress (undated): https://www.loc.gov/static/programs/national-film-preservation-board/documents/daughter_shanghai.pdf Jean-François Staszak, ‘Performing race and gender: the exoticization of Josephine Baker and Anna May Wong, Gender, Place & Culture, Volume 22, No. 5 (2015): http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/0966369X.2014.885885 Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu, ‘Forgetting Anna May Wong’, Wasafiri, Volume 19, Issue 43 (2004): https://doi.org/10.1080/02690050408589931

We all need some light relief, so join us (again) to play ‘If I Was a Painting’. See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/ John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (1897): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/38.104/ Wash Westmoreland (director), Andrea Flesch (costume designer), Colette (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5437928/ James Jacques Tissot, Frederick Burnaby, National Portrait Gallery, London (1870): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00932/Frederick-Burnaby François-Hubert Drouais, Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame, National Portrait Gallery, London (1763-4): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/francois-hubert-drouais-madame-de-pompadour-at-her-tambour-frame Otto Dix, Bildnis der Journalistin Sylvia von Harden, Centre Pompidou (1926): https://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/resource/cjyXKB7/rzEpd6 August Sander, Sekretärin beim Westdeutscher Rundfunk in Köln (1931): https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/august-sander_sekretarin-beim-westdeutscher-rundfunk-in-koln_epreuve-gelatino-argentique_1931

We talk about Alison Ellwood’s documentary about The Go-Go’s and the band members’ fabulous clothes, hair and make-up. See links below. Alison Ellwood (director), The Go-Go’s (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11394468/ The Go-Go’s (2020) Official Trailer, Showtime Documentary Film (1 July 2020): https://youtu.be/GsiRfL11I08 Variety, ‘The Go-Go’s dive into their history in new documentary at Sundance’ (28 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHS5gdKSUcY Keaton Bell, ‘How the Go-Go’s Found Their Beat: An Oral History’, Vogue (4 August 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/go-gos-40th-anniversary-beauty-and-the-beat-oral-history-belinda-carlisle The Go-Go’s – We Got The Beat: https://youtu.be/f55KlPe81Yw The Go-Go’s – Vacation: https://youtu.be/2RHTiXvELNg The Go-Go’s – Turn To You: https://youtu.be/gc-WHZ0AH50 The Go-Go’s – Our Lips Are Sealed: https://youtu.be/r3kQlzOi27M Fun Boy Three, Our Lips Are Sealed (1983, uploaded 13 July 2017): https://youtu.be/QhVhK-VVeXo John Waters (director), Van Smith (costume design), Christine Mason (key hair stylist), Hairspray (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0095270/ ‘Automatic Mascara’, cosmetics and skin: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/ded/automatic-mascara.php

We talk about Kent State University Museum’s inspiring exhibition ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’. See links below. Kent State University Museum: https://www.instagram.com/ksumuseum/ Jean L. Druesedow: https://www.kent.edu/museum/profile/jean-l-druesedow Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman papers, Kent State University Libraries: https://www.library.kent.edu/special-collections-and-archives/shannon-rodgers-and-jerry-silverman-papers ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’, Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio (2 February – 19 December 2021): https://www.kent.edu/museum/event/stitched-regional-dress-across-europe KSU Museum, ‘Fashion Focus: Stitched Regional Dress across Europe’, YouTube (5 February 2021): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwwT-abxCOQ Solveig Strand, ‘The Norwegian Bunad: Peasant Dress, Embroidered Costume and National Symbol’, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 2, Issue 3 (Autumn 2018): https://dresshistorians.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/The-Journal-of-Dress-History-Volume-2-Issue-3-Autumn-2018.pdf

We talk about the challenges of packing museum objects and Poiret’s and Drecoll’s dresses for Jean Epstein’s 1925 film ‘Le Double Amour’. See links below. How to store a wedding dress, Museum of London (16 September 2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHcQug5ZJd4 Jean Epstein (director); Drecoll, Paul Poiret (dresses for Nathalie Lissenko); Pierre Kéfer (décors, executed by Lazare Meerson), Le Double Amour (1925): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0237181/ Le Double Amour on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48362-le-double-amour-jean-epstein-1925/ Cycle Jean Epstein – Le Double Amour, DVD Classik (not dated): https://www.dvdclassik.com/critique/le-double-amour-epstein Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Stephen Ongpin Fine Art: https://www.stephenongpin.com/object/805553/0/bernard-boutet-de-monvel-paris-1884; also: https://www.instagram.com/boutet.de.monvel/ Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Textile design by Paul Poiret for Martine, Metropolitan Museum of Art (c. 1919): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/487282 Printed cotton, designed by Francis Jourdain, made by Cornille (c. 1925), Lot 233, ‘Étoffes & Costumes Anciens – Papiers Peints’, Couteau-Bégarie & Associés, Paris, Auction (19 February 2021): https://www.coutaubegarie.com/lot/107236/14310881

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below. Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

We discuss gender and race relations and the use of clothes in Ann Petry’s 1946 novel The Street. See links below. Ann Petry, The Street (Virago 2019, first published 1946): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-street/9780349012926/ Ann Petry, The Narrows (Virago 2020, first published 1953): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-narrows/9780349013398/ Biographical information for Ann Petry at New York Public Library: http://archives.nypl.org/scm/24832#overview Tayari Jones, ‘In praise of Ann Petry’, The New York Times (10 November 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/10/books/review/in-praise-of-ann-petry.html Tayari Jones, ‘The Street: the 1940s African American thriller that became a huge bestseller’, The Guardian (14 December 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/dec/14/the-street-the-1940s-african-american-thriller-that-became-a-huge-bestseller Heather J. Hicks, ‘Rethinking Realism in Ann Petry’s “The Street”, Melus. Vol. 27, No. 4 (Winter 2002): https://www.jstor.org/stable/3250621 Heather J. Hicks, "This Strange Communion": Surveillance and Spectatorship in Ann Petry's "The Street", African American Review, vol. 37, no. 1 (Spring 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1512357 All-American news IV (1945), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2018600204/ One tenth of a nation. The Arts (1954), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2020600724/

Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.com/ Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, Sheila Heti, Women in Clothes (2014): www.penguin.co.uk/books/196157/women-in-clothes/9781846148354.html Visible Mending: https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/ Boro: The Fabric of Life: https://www.boisbuchet.org/exhibitions/boro-the-fabric-of-life/ Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY Robert J. Flaherty, Nanook of the North (1922): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013427/ Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8 Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (costume design), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/

We unexpectedly become fascinated with clowns and their make-up, including Joseph Grimaldi. See links below. Leichner Kosmetik: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/leichner.php Dave Fagundes and Aaron Perzanowski, The fascinating reason why clowns paint their faces on eggs, BBC Future (6 December 2017): https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20171206-the-fascinating-reason-why-clowns-paint-their-faces-on-eggs Costume worn by Joseph Grimaldi (1800-1823), Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/794735.html Carold Reed (director), Veniero Colasanti (costume design), Trapeze (1956): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0049875/ Mode Circus Knie, Textilmuseum St. Gallen (7 March 2019 – 19 January 2020): https://www.textilmuseum.ch/modecircus/ Jean-Antoine Watteau, ‘Pierrot, formerly known as Gilles’ (c. 1718-19), Musée du Louvre, Paris: https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/pierrot-formerly-known-gilles Playbill for The Great United Circus Alhambra Palace (1858), Victoria & Albert Museum: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1462318/the-great-united-states-circus-playbill-horner/ National Fairground and Circus Archive, The University of Sheffield: https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/nfca

We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below. Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/ Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/ Well, fame costs ....: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tze87LfeOtY Edmond T. Gréville (director), Gaston, Philippe and Zanel (costume design), Princesse Tam-Tam (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026891/ Exploring Josephine Baker, Autograph (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker George Cukor (director), Cecil Beaton and Michael Neuwirth (costume design), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan, Jacqueline Durran and Sinéad Kidao (costume design on different episodes), Small Axe (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3464896/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episodes/p08vxt33/small-axe Supertone Records: http://www.supertonerecords.co.uk/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan and Jacqueline Durran (costume design), Lovers Rock (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10551102/ Laura U. Marks, The Skin of the Film: Intercultural Cinema, Embodiment, and the Senses (Duke University Press 2000): https://www.sfu.ca/~lmarks/skin/skin.html Lauren Cochrane, ‘Well put together’: the style legacy of lovers rock’, The Guardian online (20 November 2020): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/nov/20/well-put-together-the-style-legacy-of-lovers-rock K. Austin Collins, ‘The Dance Floor Is Always at the Center of Steve McQueen’s “Lovers Rock”’, Rolling Stone (28 November 2020): https://www.rollingstone.com/movies/movie-reviews/lovers-rock-steve-mcqueen-small-axe-1090869/ Wales Bonner, Lovers Rock collection (AW20): https://walesbonner.net/blogs/lovers-rock-aw20 John Goto, Lovers’ Rock (1977): http://www.johngoto.org.uk/Lovers_Rock/index.htm#45

We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below. Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Kleptomania’, Signs, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1989): https://www.freud.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Abelson-The-Invention-of-Kleptomania.pdf

We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below. Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/ Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1 Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169 Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990, V&A (2012): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/postmodernism-style-and-subversion-1970-90-hardback-110121.html ‘Helmut Newton: High Gloss’, Hamiltons, London (21 October 2020 - 8 January 2021): https://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/exhibitions/helmut-newton-high-gloss/overview/ Fashion Interpretations, A symposium: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/events/

We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings