Podcast appearances and mentions of Tom Curren

Who is the best surfer in the world—and what actually makes someone “the best” in surfing? Is it airs, power turns, getting barreled, or just having the most fun? On this episode of Pinch My Salt, pro surfer Sterling Spencer and Cousin Ryan dive deep into surf culture, surf comedy, and the eternal debate: performance vs. soul surfing.If you love surfing podcasts, skateboarding culture, beach life, surf edits, and funny takes on pro surfers like Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, or Tom Curren, this is your episode. We unpack everything from underrated surfers, surf localism, soft top culture, bald celebrities (

Tman en Jokke zijn op bezoek bij Garreth McNamara in Nazaré. Hij vertelt over zijn grootste mislukking, zijn inspiratiebronnen Tom Curren, Laird Hamilton en Ross Clarke-Jones, en over het negeren van het advies van Kelly Slater. "Put it all on the line for the ultimate ride."Shoutout to THULE for the invite to Nazaré. Check our website: www.surfersearpodcast.comVolg ons op Instagram @surfersearpodcastBekijk deze podcast op YouTubePowered by Oxbow

On this episode of the Swell Season Surf Podcast, we do a deep dive with legendary surfer and surf historian Sam George. Known as one of the most traveled surfers in history and former executive editor of Surfer Magazine, Sam shares his incredible insights and stories from a lifetime dedicated to surfing. We discuss Sam's latest book, 'Child of Storms,' his influence on surf culture, his relationships with icons like Tom Curren and Laird Hamilton, and the enduring mystique of surfing. This is a rich conversation that covers the evolution of surfboards, the joys of diverse surf cultures, and the challenges and rewards of living a surfing life. Don't miss this engaging episode filled with history and legendary tales from the world of surfing.To Find out more about Child of Storms, A Surfing Memoir , you can find it here: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/child-of-storms You can Follow Sam George on Instagram at: @samgeorgesurfThe Swell Season Surf Podcast is recorded by The NewsStand Studio at Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan and is distributed by The Swell Season Surf Radio Network. For more information, you can follow @swellseasonsurfradio on Instagram or go to our website: www.swellseasonsurf.com Music: Artist: Pablo CruiseSong: Zero to Sixty in FiveAlbum: 20th Century Masters - The Millennium Collection: Best of Pablo Cruise00:00 Introduction to the Swell Season Surf Podcast02:09 Meet the Legendary Sam George03:03 Sam George's Surfing Adventures04:14 The Surfing Lifestyle and Culture07:28 Surfing's Impact on Personal Lives10:46 The Evolution of Surf Culture16:16 Hollywood's Take on Surfing21:02 Sam George's Memoir and Personal Reflections45:54 The Cannes Connection46:27 Surfing in Cinema47:01 Interview with Steven Spielberg49:19 The Mythology of Surfing54:29 Surfing with Naked Villagers58:30 Balancing Surfing and Relationships01:11:14 Brotherly Bonds and Surfing01:17:07 Matt's Navy SEAL Ambition01:21:11 Tom Curran: A Surfing Legend01:26:54 Reflecting on a Surfing Legend01:28:31 Memorable Surfing Stories01:29:24 The Evolution of Surfboards01:34:32 Travel Adventures and Advertorials01:40:55 Staying Positive in Surfing01:55:57 The Future of Surfing02:00:43 Conclusion and FarewellBecome a supporter of this podcast: https://www.spreaker.com/podcast/swell-season-surf-radio--3483504/support.

Conner Coffin cracks open a cold one with longtime friend, fellow pro surfer, and eternal frother Dane Gudauskas in this episode of the 805 Beer Cold Beer Surf Club. What starts as a laid-back chat over a zesty 805 Cerveza quickly flows into nostalgia, untold stories, and thoughtful reflections on life after the tour. The two reminisce about dreamy trips to Cloudbreak, breakdown the mentality necessary to succeed on tour, muse over the insane progression of surfing, and dive into the changes in life since becoming dads. Dane opens up about the deep-rooted friendships forged on tour, growing up in San Clemente with his brothers, making the move to Ventura, and working with Britt Merrick on crafting new models with Channel Islands Surfboards. He reveals his surfing inspirations in Nathan Fletcher, Joel Tudor, Skip Frye, Tom Curren, Gavin Beschen, and how an Indo surf trip with Dave Rastovich transformed how he saw surfing. Dane discusses the latest with his important work with Positive Vibe Warriors and the impact his board drives with Native Like Water make to inner-city communities. New episodes drop every month. Follow, subscribe, and join the Club now. Follow Conner Coffin. Follow Dane Gudauskas and the Positive Vibe Warriors. Learn more about the Positive Vibe Warriors. Follow 805 Beer. Get the latest 805 Beer content, the gear, and of course, the beer. Join the conversation, follow the league, and stay updated on all things WSL.

Barton Lynch is The Stoked Bloke...Covering surfing's current state of affairs today including the Bells Beach event and current WCT rankings. As always some insightful fun commentary on the legend of Tom Curren and we remember a beloved and impactful member of the surf world in Greg Browning! Enjoy

BAM! KERPOW! From winter to spring in a matter of a couple days, the boys chase the change in season with an East Side pow mission and new trail construction on Mount Hough. Pow Bot laments the “get off my wave” localism culture of surfing that's creeping into splitboarding, Trail Whisperer ASS rants about @sugarbowl opening Palisades to only elite athletes in a competition and the disdain he has for National Parks, a listener critiques Pow Bot for using “jazz hands” while snowboarding and Trail Whisperer gets his very first splitboard after being a lifelong skier. The boys chat more about wolves, public river access issues in Hirschdale, five finger shoes, DOPE OR DERP Nordic skiing and the favorite sounds snow makes when you're slashing it. 2:40 – Spring has sprung!3:40 – All about boots and shoes and Trail Whisperer's love of Vibram 5 finger shoes.11:40 – Pow Bot does an east side Sierra Nevada pow hunting mission.14:10 – The territorial “get off my wave” surfing mentality and culture creeping into backcountry skiing.16:55 – Trail Whisperer works a 40 hour work week for the first time in years.20:35 – New trails on Mount Hough in Quincy.24:10 – Pow Bot is back to being a weekend warrior after a winter off from work.27:10 – Listener feedback – more about the wolf conversation. Nevada issuing moose hunting tags for the first time in history.37:00 – DOPE OR DERP – Jazz Hands when snowboarding. Tanner on Insta says Pow Bot uses his hands too much while snowboarding.39:30 – Pow Bot got his love for jazz hands from some of the best surfers in the world – Tom Curren's first wave at Jeffrey's Bay.41:30 – Trail Whisperer gets his first splitboard!!50:05 – Pow Bot learns about the concept of onomatopoeia.52:10 – Favorite sounds that snow makes when slashing pow.56:15 – Lauren on Insta – group of fishermen in Hirschdale fighting with a private landowner over public access to the Truckee River.58:50 – DOPE OR DERP – Nordic Skiing1:04:30 – ASS RANT – Sugar Bowl opens Palisades for only one day, and for only elite athletes in the Silver Belt competition. Never opened to season passholders.1:11:50 – DOPE OR DERP – Planning a vacation around a national park in 2025 and an ASS RANT about national parks.1:21:30 – Swan John gets inducted into the Western Washington University sports Hall of Fame for rowing1:27:57 – ON A MUSICAL NOTE – Lady Gaga is on Pow Bot's shit list because she stole the Mayhem logo from Matt Biolos and his surfboard brand, …Lost and Mayhem.1:34:15 – When our favorite sports like surfing, snowboarding and mountain biking go mainstream, but still keeping the identity and culture of the sport.1:38:03 – Event calendar over the next few weeks – 10th Annual Rally for Rocker on 4/26, SBTS Spring Epic in Quincy on 5/15-18, Truckee Dirt Union Loam Masters Rally 5/23-24.

The 805 Beer Cold Beer Surf Club is back with the one and only Eithan Osborne! The fearless aerialist and one of surfing's most electrifying talents joins Conner Coffin in the new home for CBSC - Conner's garage. From winning STAB High Japan 2024, to filming his profile piece, SKINNY MEAT HEAD, with Dane Reynolds and Chapter 11, to tackling the first-ever Natural Selection Tour, Eithan takes us behind the curtain on a whirlwind of a year. He breaks down the mental game of heats vs. free surfing, what it takes to rise through the ranks, and how to keep charging—even while surfing through gnarly injuries, shoulder dislocations, a torn meniscus, and a broken toe. Eithan shares wild tales from the road, including an unbelievable experience with legendary boat captain Martin Daly that starts with a boat collision and ends with Martin diving in himself to repair the boat. Eithan also reveals the most painful and traumatizing injury of his life: a brush with the notorious Gympie plant. They dive into growing up surfing in the 805 and Ventura County with Dane Reynolds, Bobby Martinez, and Tom Curren as their heroes, and how those roots shaped Eithan's approach to surfing and life. New episodes drop every month. Follow, subscribe, and join the Club now. Follow Conner Coffin. Follow Eithan Osborne Follow 805 Beer. Get the latest 805 Beer content, the gear, and of course, the beer. Join the conversation, follow the league, and stay updated on all things WSL.

Saison 6 - Episode n°62 - Enregistré à Anglet le 28 novembre 2024 Antony Colas cumule les casquettes depuis plus de 30 ans : journaliste, guide, photographe, éditeur, logisticien etc. Avec malgré tout deux dénominateurs communs que sont le surf et l'aventure. 

Son nom reste indissociable des Stormrider Guides qui ont accompagné les trips de tous les surfeurs européens puis mondiaux dans les années 90 puis 2000. Des ouvrages compilant des centaines de spots, avec toutes les infos pratiques pour les scorer au meilleur moment. Il a aussi réalisé certaines des aventures surf les plus osées de ces dernière décennies, toujours dans l'optique de trouver de nouvelles vagues et de documenter les côtes les plus inattendues de la planète. Enfin, son goût pour l'insolite et les vagues alternatives l'a rapidement poussé vers les mascarets dont il est l'un des plus éminents spécialistes de la planète, et qui l'ont conduit dans des endroits surprenants. Avec parfois des trouvailles inattendues comme cette vague sur le Bono, en Indonésie, qui avait conduit à l'expédition Seven Ghosts avec entre autres Tom Curren. Continuant à collectionner les tampons sur ses passeports entre les Maldives, qu'il sillonne et arpente depuis bientôt 30 ans, les Molluques, l'exploration de mascarets ou autres, Yep relate à notre micro une vie entière dédiée à la spotologie, SA science. Sa passion aussi. Une activité qui a rendu service des milliers de surfeurs, mais qui en a aussi irrité un paquet d'autres. Un sujet qu'on aborde sans détours avec lui. Bref, un épisode intéressant avec l'un des acteurs incontournables de la surf culture.

Bonne écoute à tous. Merci à l'Ecole des Métiers du Surf pour le soutien de cet épisode. Découvrez l'école, son campus, ses valeurs et son catalogue de formation sur https://ecoledesmetiers.surf/ ✌

Lee-Ann Curren is a freesurfer, musician, and artist. She grew up and lives in Biarritz, in the southwest of France. Her father is three-time world champion Tom Curren. Her mother is Marie-Pascale, a top-ranked European surfer in the 1980s. Her grandfather is the late Pat Curren, one of the pioneers of Waimea Bay and shaper of big-wave elephant guns. Her aunt Marie-Paul is the 1967 French national champ, and her aunt Marie-Christine is a six-time French national champ. Though she's won a couple of French national championships herself, Lee-Ann is primarily known as a freesurfer who has woven traveling, music-making, and art into that moniker. In this episode of Soundings, host Jamie Brisick meets with Lee-Ann in the Basque Country to talk about her family's influence, touring with her band, finding her place, maintaining artistic purity, criticality, and the poetics of movement in sound and water.  

The ultimate surf comedy podcast episode from Pinch My Salt! If you're searching for funny surf podcasts, surf culture breakdowns, or want to know why every surf shop employee looks so mad, this episode is for you.

Join the debate and dive into the world of ocean sports as we discuss the age-old question: who is the BEST surfer EVER!? In this episode of Pinch My Salt, we're tackling the nuances of surfing and exploring the trends that have shaped the sport over the years. From the surfing issues that plague the community to the surfing debates that fuel our passion, we're covering it all. So, sit back, relax, and get ready to ride the wave of opinion as we try to crown the ultimate surfing champion. Kelly Slater? Tom Curren? John John Florence!? 

Legendary surfer, filmmaker, and environmental advocate Chris Malloy joins us on The Lineup. Known for his no-nonsense attitude and deep connection to the land, Chris dives into what it truly means to live authentically and reconnect with nature. He shares his views on modern conservation efforts, the surf film industry, and what it was like to watch legends like Tom Curren at Rincon in the early days. From hammering nails, cutting wood and driving tractors to fund his surf trips to taking a leap with Patagonia, Chris recounts how stepping away from big sponsorship deals was met with skepticism but ultimately led to a fulfilling path of making purpose-driven films. He offers an inside look at the surfing world before the internet, when curiosity was the fuel for adventure. Chris looks back at his upbringing, moving from Los Angeles to Ojai in the late '70s—a place he describes was filled with hippies, cowboys, and the Hell's Angels. He reminisces about the early surf trips to the North Shore, scraping by with couch surfing and car camping. Recounting stories of Pipeline, Teahupo'o, and the Mentawais, he paints a picture of an era when surfing's greats carved out a living on the waves and off the grid. Chris also reflects on the changing surf culture, the “passing of the torch,” and how while the younger generation's progression may be incredible, he worries they may be missing out on the raw, unfiltered experience that shaped his own career. Chris continues by discussing the evolution of his filmmaking journey, from his early appearances in Taylor Steele's films to creating impactful surf documentaries with his brothers. He discusses his partnership with YETI and their shared ethos of practicality and purpose. He shares how YETI gear became a staple on his ranch, highlighting the importance of quality tools that allow you to do what you love just a little longer. Learn more about Chris Malloy here and follow him here. Join the conversation by following The Lineup podcast with Dave Prodan on Instagram and subscribing to our YouTube channel. Get the latest WSL rankings, news, and event info. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Episode 119 - Insider Take On Board Brands, Steph Gilmore's Latest Edit, The Tudors & More! Wow, this is a packed episode people. With recommendations on films and edits to watch ranging from Rip Curl's newest film featuring Steph Gilmore, Tom Curren and Mason Ho, to STAB's amazing Electric Acid Surfboard Test With Rasta, to Mike Feb's newest surf porn and more! Also some highly controversial and strong words on surf board brands and what they are doing in the industry. Matt pull's no punches here!To top it off we have a classic chin wag about surf stories and more! Don't forget this is on YouTube too, so check it out there!Please share, enjoy and download!Follow us at @the_insiders_podcast - Link In Bio

In today's show Scott and David welcome the return of the Hawai'i season, reveal the secret ingredient to EAST, reinvest in their miseducation about fins, and unearth never-before-seen archival Tom Curren footage and amplify his lore. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's show Scott and David attempt to define “high-performance” in light of the high-flying Twin Fin Invitational, question if the Pickle Fork is the new Elf Shoe'd potato chip, marvel at the acting chops of Tom Curren, and David finally reviews The Life And Death Of Westerly Windina. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On this week's episode, Chris and Todd talk about snowboard season, Surf City El Salvador ISA Masters World Surfing Championship, Melanie Bartels, Tom Curren, Keep-A-Breast, Colby + wetsuit review, Thrasher's Halloween Hellbomb, 20 years of Grant Taylor, Over/Under by Shea Donavon and Jimmy Wilkins, Abu Dhabi Wavepool price report, Slater's new pool in Texas, Chris Russell goes HAM for OJs, quarter pipe tombstone, Patty McGhee RIP, Korean kid does a 1620, new Warren Miller movie coming in hot, Jenkem's costume ideas for skaters, Arthur Longo's new flick rips, Hello Kitty snowboards, lots and lots of questions. Halloween stuff, surf, skate, snow and some nerd news.   Presented by: Sun Bum @sunbum By Spy Optics @spyoptic Hansen Surfboards @hansensurf Bachan's Japanese BBQ Sauce @trybachans MachuPicchu Energy @machupicchu.energy Pannikin Coffee And Tea @pannikincoffeeandtea Bubs Naturals @bubsnatruals Hansen Surfboards @hansensurf New Greens @newgreens Pedal Electric @pedal.electric Vesyl Shipping @vesylapp Mint Tours @minttours Die Cut Stickers @diecutstickersdotcom

On this week's episode, the boys do their best to cobble together a mish-mash episode. Chris is in El Salvador at the Surf City ISA Masters World Surfing Championships and Todd is in his garage at  home in Encinitas. The boys go back to back discussing Swatch 9s, Surfer Big Wave Awards, Kelly Slater, Electric Acid Surfboard Test, ISA Masters, Tom Curren, Converse skate video, Jimmy Wilkins and Shea Donavon present “Over Under”, Elliot Sloan with the Benihana back 5, James Wedding the Canadian Olympic snowboarder turned cocaine cowboy, powder snorkel, Eastern Boarder break-in, and not much more. Presented by: Sun Bum @sunbum By Spy Optics @spyoptic Hansen Surfboards @hansensurf Bachan's Japanese BBQ Sauce @trybachans MachuPicchu Energy @machupicchu.energy Pannikin Coffee And Tea @pannikincoffeeandtea Bubs Naturals @bubsnatruals Hansen Surfboards @hansensurf Slobber @slobber.xyz New Greens @newgreens Pedal Electric @pedal.electric Vesyl Shipping @vesylapp Mint Tours @minttours Die Cut Stickers @diecutstickersdotcom

In today's show David and Chas discover the correct name for a “flip-flop”, plumb the depths of Richie Collins, learn how to never poo in front of Tom Curren, explain why you should never keep a board on ice, get re-traumatized by the decorative soap from their childhood. Plus Barrel or Nah?! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It could have happened anytime, anywhere. But our guest's story takes place in Santa Barbara, California from 1980 to 1983. Four short years that saw a giant leap forward in the development of West Coast surfing, design, performance and image. It was set off by a rare combination of individuals, innovation and illumination,against a backdrop of some of the best seasons of surf in two decades.  Some have called this California's Halcyon Days. But many of us may not have known about this giant leap in surfing had it not been for a modest 19 year old Texan with a slight drawl who just moved to Santa Barbara in late 1979 to attend the highly regarded Brooks Institute for photography. The Texan would go on to document a period in surfing that would go on to reverberate in the surfing world for decades.  Our Guest Jimmy Metyko, from Houston, Texas, has maintained a multi-faceted, successful career path in fields of photography, art, graphic design, fashion design, brand creation, development and marketing by the application of one simple strategy: staying ahead of the curve. And in some cases, even designing the curve. We could go on and on about his accomplishments and career both in and out of surfing but, we're here to talk about a small slice of his life. His recently released book, Shaping Surf History, by Rizzoli Publishing, is out now and it documents a very special time and place in surfing. It is the Stuff of legend and lore. He documents the rise of a quiet and unassuming surfing savant, his mentor and shaper, a sudden arrival of a world Champion and a crew of surfers that would go on to shape the future of surfing. I am of course talking about Tom Curren, Al Merrick, Shaun Tomson and the Santa Barbara surf scene. Jimmy Metyko is our guest on this episode.  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

WSL commentator and Lineup co-host Mitchell Salazar returns once again to wrap up an incredible event to crown this year's World Champions from the Lexus Finals. They discuss their winners and losers and John John Florence officially solidifying his dynasty by securing his third World Title and entering the realm of renowned surfers with at least 3x World Titles in Tom Curren, Gabe Medina, Mick Fanning, Andy Irons, Mark Richards, Kelly Slater, Layne Beachley, Carissa Moore, Stephanie Gilmore, and Layne Beachley, Frieda Zamba, Margo Oberg, and Wendy Botha. They also revel at Caity's incredible performance and her securing her first World Title, officially becoming the youngest World Champion in WSL history. They talk about Italo's rampaging run through the bracket, his dominating style of surfing, and how it played in his scoring. Things get heated and contentious after Dave and Mitch bring on a couple producers at the WSL to play a Vissla CT Shaper Rankings Fantasy Snake Draft game in the second segment. Finally, Dave and Mitch close the pod by answering your listener questions. Follow Mitch here. Follow Miguel here. Follow Dylan here. Get caught up from the results of the Lexus WSL Finals. Stay tuned to the EDP Ericeira Pro Presented By Estrella Galicia, Sep 29th - Oct 6. Stay up to date with the rankings. Join the conversation by following The Lineup podcast with Dave Prodan on Instagram and subscribing to our YouTube channel. Get the latest WSL rankings, news, and event info. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It would be impossible to overstate the legend of Michael Peterson in the annals of Australian surfing. 1976 World Champ, Peter Townend, described him as: “Miki Dora, James Dean and Marlon Brando, all rolled into one.” At the time, he was regarded by many as the best surfer that had ever lived. One of the most iconic images in surfing history is of Michael Peterson at Kirra in 1971 laying his board on rail in his iconic red trunks. The shot became the classic film poster for Morning of the Earth and was used as the cover of Tracks Magazine in February 1972. His Iconic turn consolidated his reputation as the fastest man to ever ride a surfboard. The Still image of this turn would go on to change the way surfers saw riding waves and would inspire infinite versions of it, generation after generation.  In this special episode of Hardcore Surf History, host Tyler Breuer discusses the legendary Australian surfer Michael Peterson (MP) and the lasting impact of his iconic turn at Kira in 1971. Peterson's image became a hallmark in the surfing world, setting a standard for wave riding. To honor him, photographers Simon 'Shagga' Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael created the 'MP Classic Cutback Competition,' a global contest on Instagram where surfers compete to execute the best version of Peterson's famous turn. Esteemed judges include Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Dean Morrison, Steph Gilmore, Tom Curren, and Mark Occhilupo. The competition runs from June to September 24th, with videos tagged #MPCCC24 and following @only_one_MP. The episode features in-depth discussions with Simon ‘Shagga' Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael about Peterson's legacy, the competition's origins, entry details, judging criteria, and its impact on the surfing community. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this milestone 100th episode of the Surf Mastery Podcast, host Michael Frampton welcomes back the stylish surfer Devon Howard. Broadcasting from the Channel Islands office in Santa Barbara, Devon shares his insights on the elusive concept of style in surfing. The episode delves into the historical evolution of style, its significance in competitive surfing, and the subjective nature of defining style.Devon emphasizes the importance of making difficult maneuvers look effortless and how personal demeanor often mirrors one's surfing style. He contrasts the stylistic approaches of surfers like Joel Parkinson and Kelly Slater with the more explosive style of Adriano de Souza. Listeners are encouraged to focus on form over presentation, maintain a relaxed and efficient approach, and view style as a natural extension of personal expression.Episode Highlights:Introduction to Devon Howard: Recap of Devon's previous appearances on episodes 41, 77, and 86.Importance of Style in Surfing: Exploring the subjective nature of style and its impact on surfing performance and aesthetics.Origins of the Word 'Style': Michael provides a brief etymology of the word 'style' and its various meanings throughout history.Cultural Influence on Style: How different surf cultures and eras emphasize or de-emphasize style.Effortless Style: The concept of making difficult maneuvers look easy and the importance of being relaxed and calm.Influence of Personality on Style: How a surfer's personality often reflects in their surfing style.Contrived vs. Natural Style: The difference between genuinely stylish surfing and trying too hard to look stylish.Technical Aspects of Style: Tips for improving style through form, patience, and not rushing maneuvers.Style in Tube Riding: The inherent style in good tube riding and how it relates to other surfing maneuvers.Practical Advice: Devon's practical advice for surfers aiming to improve their style.Key Quotes:Devon Howard: “Style is oftentimes making the difficult look easy.”Michael Frampton: “You can be quick without being rushed.”Devon Howard: “Don't try to contrive it. Don't rush your surfing.”Follow Devon Howard Check out Devon's surfing and updates on his Instagram.Devon_howardLinkedin : https://www.linkedin.com/in/devon-howard-a4b2a613/.Connect with Surf Mastery:Surf Mastery Website: Download the free PDF with the top five tips from the Surf Mastery Podcast at surfmastery.com. Instagram: Surf MasteryFull Show Transcript:Devon Howard: When I. When I often think about style, there's always like there's two camps. There's the people that get it and and style is usually it's like you know it when you see it. I said, how do you know that something's pornographic versus art or beauty? And a lot of times the answer is, well, you know, when you see it, you know, something is gross or smut as opposed to art. Michael Frampton: Welcome back to the Surf Mastery Podcast. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and this is episode 100 of the podcast. A little bit of a milestone. Special guest for this episode. And we've also revamped the website Surf Mastery. Com and on the front page of that website is a free PDF listing the top five tips from the Surf Mastery Podcast. So go to Surf mastery.com and you can download that PDF for free. Today's guest. Well, I was looking back through all the stats on this podcast and the the most downloaded episodes have been from Devon Howard, so it made sense to have him on episode 100. And so you can go back and listen to. He first appeared on the show, uh, episode 41, discussing longboarding and nose riding. Then it was back in, uh, episode 77 zero. Uh, we talked about Mid-lengths in episode 86. It was Twin fins. And today in episode 100, Devin Howard joins us again to discuss style. Style is something that is in it's fundamental. It's paramount for every type of surfing that is done, from traditional longboarding all the way through to high performance, short boarding. All of the greats, all of the most memorable surfers have good style. They are stylish. From Joel Tudor in traditional longboarding through to Joel Parkinson as a high performance, competitive short boarder Tom Curren. Uh, mid lengths and twin fins. You got Torin Martin. Michael Frampton: And of course, Devon Howard himself is a very stylish surfer. He's very smooth, very graceful on a longboard, on a mid length and a twin fin. We've even seen some footage of him riding, uh, three thrusters out there on his Instagram. And his style, his technique, his gracefulness runs throughout his surfing. So a perfect topic for us to discuss in episode 100, so I would love to hear your feedback on the show in general. Last 100 episodes and of course this episode. Go ahead, send us an email Mike at Surf mastery.com. Or you can DM me on Instagram or leave a comment under the, uh, the visual for this episode. And of course, support Devin Howard, give his Instagram a follow. And of course, he's, uh, joining us from the Channel Islands office in Santa Barbara. Uh, Devin is currently working with Channel Islands, are working on some new surfboard models as well as he's you know, some of the most popular boards recently have been he's been a part of. So without further adieu, I shall fade in my conversation with Devon Howard. I actually see a lot of agreement between Brett and Chaz on this subject. Yeah, yeah, because there are there are thing right that you go to a Grateful Dead concert and you experience the show and the vibe, you don't really listen to them on Spotify. Devon Howard: Yeah. It's it's something to be enjoyed live. Michael Frampton: Yeah. There's a certain style and vibe to them I think that come across differently in person than it does. And also the audience they sort of draw in. Yeah. Rather to the music on Spotify right there. Devon Howard: There are two bands that I think are better live as well, which I think Radiohead is better live. I like Radiohead, I think a lot of their albums are great. I've been to a few of their shows that I think, no, this is 10 or 15 years ago. I don't know if that's still the case, but at the time when they were really peaking, they were insane live. And then I also saw James Brown live. Oh, wow. 25 years ago. And that was incredible. Mhm. I mean what a showman. Michael Frampton: Yes. Yeah I can imagine I mean there's the Radiohead live from the basement. Um unbelievable. Like gives you I can't remember what album it's they play in full from their studio basement studio and just makes you appreciate them on a whole nother level. Yeah. Just just by watching that on YouTube, not even being there. Well, yeah. Um, I remember seeing a gentleman called AMP Fiddler, another one of the best live acts I ever saw. Um, gave me a new appreciation of his music. He's sort of new, new age funk slash reggae. Um. Interesting music. Yeah. Catch a fire. Catch a fire. They're doing a tour through California at the moment. There are another unbelievable band live. Their live performance and sound is bigger than their their studio albums. I think they actually New Zealand band. You get a chance to see them. They often play in Santa Barbara. I forget the venue names, like a 500 capacity venue in Santa Barbara. They always play there. Devon Howard: Is that the ball? I'm not sure. Michael Frampton: Can't remember. Devon Howard: Anyway, a lot of venues there, but yeah. Michael Frampton: Style. Let's talk about style. Do you? Yeah. What would what do you know the origin of the word. Devon Howard: Um, I don't, but I'd imagine. Uh. Well, I hope you did some research on it. Is it, um, the Latin word is it is it is it Greek? Is it? Where does it come from? Michael Frampton: Let me sort of summarize from etymology online from the early 14th century started out as a writing instrument, pen or stylus, uh, a piece of a piece of written discourse or narrative, uh, characteristic. Characteristic, uh, rhetorical mode of an author, a manner or mode of expression. Uh, a way of life behavior. Uh, then the word sort of transformed, uh, the evolution of the word uh, from writing tool went into writing into manner of writing, into mode of expression, uh, in writing of a particular writer, writer or author. Um, and then it was in the 1500s. It was paired with the word substance, um, which basically meant back then, divine part of essence, sorry, divine part or essence, uh, and that, sort of, that sort of gave the word, uh, a deeper meaning, including finer parents or dashing character. Um, then it was the word then went into an artist's particular mode or form of skilled presentation that was later extended into athletics. Um, then by the 1800s it was distinctive or characteristic mode of dress. Obviously it was more in regards to fashion. Um, and so there's a, there's a little bit of a history of the word. So I think there's a lot of lot of depth to that. And it's certainly, um, it's very, uh, apt for, for surfing. A lot of those meanings, I think. Yes. Had tell me what you think about style and how important it is. Devon Howard: Well, style is um, from my personal experience growing up, it was a, it was a measure of good surfing and, um, it was a marker of, like, one's own presentation of their expression of surfing. Uh, I don't want to cheapen it by, I guess, using the word brand, like your brand of surfing, but, um, everyone has their own form of expression, and style is. Oftentimes I see style as making the difficult look easy and my own belief in, you know, just absorbing what was around me when I was a kid. You know, we're humans. We we sort of mimic and and imitate what's around us. I haven't innovated anything really at all. I've just looked what's around. And you take bits and pieces of first. You take it from your parents, of course. And then as you get out in the world, it's like what's going on around you. And in San Diego, where I grew up. And I think this was the same in many other served cities in not only the US but the world. Um, in the 80s, the older surfers, 10 to 20 years or year older than you, where style focused as opposed to this idea of, um, ripping or tearing something apart and in doing it with reckless abandon. Um, that was something that started getting more popular as I was a kid. So I was sort of born into this era where one thing was kind of falling out of favor. Um, and this other form of surfing was gaining popularity. And, uh, sorry, that was kind of a muddled answer, but it's it's I think it's one of the most difficult subjects in surfing to discuss or to describe because it's so subjective. Um, and it comes with the word style, comes with a lot of different ideas to people ranging from beauty to something that's very contrived and nonfunctional. Michael Frampton: Yeah. I mean, has the word style itself has, as you sort of addressed, has a lot of meanings, like everyone has their own unique style, you could say, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they are stylish. So when we think of when we think of stylish surfers, we do. We think of beauty and grace and flow. Um, so and I think it is related to, to that and it's related to efficiency, right? I mean, Rob Machado comes to mind. I think he's sort of an incredibly stylish surfer, but he's also fits in that modern category. Category of radical. Yeah, he encompasses both. And I mean, world champ Joel Parkinson obviously fit the criteria of of competition surfing but remained incredibly smooth and stylish. Devon Howard: Yeah. Well, um, you know, I think depending who where you grew up and what culture you came from or grew up in, um, style could also just not be that important. You know, if, if surfing to to you or just to any individual is about, um, really pushing as hard as they can with maneuvers and being as radical as they can and, you know, tearing apart a wave of, you know, like you think of the Brazilian storm. Guys there for years have been, you know, they're well deserved. They're incredible athletes. They are highly athletic. And it is explosive maneuvers. And they're acrobats in many ways. Um, for some reason, as that game has gained popularity, some aspects of the presentation and sort of fall into the wayside where, uh, in gymnastics, um, presentation and form is still really part of the whole thing was never really let like if you do a floor routine in gymnastics, um, or let's say dance or anything like that, they're doing really kind of athletic, powerful moves, but they also keep the form and I don't know quite the exact reason, but, uh, that sort of started falling out of favor in surfing, mostly because what drives our conversations oftentimes revolves around competition. Surfing, um, like competition surfing drives a lot of the media narratives, um, let's say, who are like, where do we get our information from? It's driven by the cell to, to whatever extent that is, stab in their audience. Devon Howard: Um, surf line kind of, sort of. But they're more focused on cameras and whatnot. And then the most of the magazines have gone out of business. But only ten years ago, a lot of the stories were driven by the the personalities and the folks that competed. And there was a mixed bag in there of surfers that had great style, like Joel Parkinson. He mentioned, um, I would say Kelly Slater has a good style. It's a different style. It's his own. Um, and then on the opposite end of that would be like an Adriano de Souza or somebody like that, where he's clearly just incredibly talented, but sort of putting his surfing together and like one seamless, fluid motion was not a focus of his. And so, um, it's been interesting to watch and the broader conversations of the mainstream, how that sort of played out, uh, in back to where I grew up. I grew up on the fringe of all that. Anyways, so I was riding longboards in the 80s and 90s that was as fringe as it got. And in that world, all through that time, um, style was still important, even when folks were trying to emulate Shortboard maneuvers on longboards, there was still an emphasis of style. Um, sorry. I'll shut up. I don't know where I'm going with that, but yeah. Michael Frampton: So I'm just wondering when you look at, I mean, I think that you mentioned the Brazilian storm. I think Gabriel Medina is quite stylish. Not all the time, but probably actually more so when you see him. Freeserve he sort of. He just seems to be more relaxed when he's not surfing in a competition. And I think that's maybe what separates the I think that's a big part of being stylish is you're very calm and you're relaxed. That doesn't necessarily mean you're going slower or that you're even putting less effort in. It's just maybe you referenced gymnastics. I think a gymnast could do the same routine. They get the same height, the same amount of power. But if one of their runs, they were purposely trying to keep the presentation of themselves relaxed and calm, it would be more visually appealing. Sort of making it look, look easy. Devon Howard: Yeah. That's the that's the thing. Making it difficult look easy. Mhm. In the 60s or 50s or whatever the boards weren't very maneuverable. So um clearly the market did. Surfing was just people who were stylish and could kind of keep it together. Um, hang on one second. Um, are you hearing a beeping on your end? What? I'm getting messages. Yeah. Michael Frampton: Is that your phone? Devon Howard: Yeah. I don't know how to turn off the iMessage on my, uh. Oh, it's on the computer. I'm trying to see how to undo this. Is this on. Michael Frampton: Your phone, a phone or your laptop or your iPad? Devon Howard: It's on my laptop. Oh, sorry. You're going to have to edit this out. That's all right. I'm just getting, like, every one of them. Don't fuck me up. The client. Claudia, um, do you have any idea how to get rid of iMessage off here? Preferences services? Michael Frampton: That's a good question. I don't I don't have my, um, I don't have my laptop linked to my phone, so. Yeah. Devon Howard: Don't do it. References. Let's say. Michael Frampton: I'd say I'd be under notifications, notifications and focus is like a bell symbol. Devon Howard: On, uh, on the computer itself or on the phone. Michael Frampton: I'm looking on my laptop. Devon Howard: Where did you find the notifications in System Preferences? Michael Frampton: Okay. Devon Howard: System preferences notifications. There they are. Look at that. Michael Frampton: And top top right there's a there's a button. Allow notifications so you can turn that off or on I'd say that's it. Devon Howard: Only five messages? There we go. Okay, I want to turn that off. Okay. Apologies for that. Okay. So, um. All right. Michael Frampton: So where were we? Let me throw out some some adjectives that I wrote down after thinking about style a little bit. Um, efficient. Graceful. Functional. Calm. Focused. Relaxed. Grounded. Present. Fearless. Or maybe, better put, courageous. Is there anything you would add to that or you think shouldn't be there? Devon Howard: Uh, no. I just think it's more about a calm and a gracefulness. It's mostly what it is. And it's just a it's just the form of your personal expression. I think a lot of the style, you'll see style of folks from a distance, and a lot of ways it matches up to their personality. Right? You'll see someone who's quite busy, a lot of a lot of kinetic, sort of frantic, uh, motions and, and not always the case, but sometimes, like, okay, this person's a little overcaffeinated in general, you know, they're really mellow, kind of quiet. People have this very quiet. Always meet a really quiet surfer with their style, and they're really loud and and obnoxious. There's exceptions to the rule, but if you think about it quickly, there's not often the case. And so, um, I think a lot of those adjectives actually work pretty well. Um, I don't what did you say? Courageous. Michael Frampton: Yeah. Devon Howard: I don't really know that that applies to it. Really. I don't think it's really much to do with courage other than. Well, I was. Michael Frampton: Thinking that I was just wondering if that was a better word than fearless. Devon Howard: Mhm. Michael Frampton: Because if you, if you look, if you look scared, that's not very stylish is it. Devon Howard: No, no it's very your tent style. And yeah I've said to people I don't do surf coaching, but if I've ever seen someone in the water and looks like they're struggling, if it's appropriate or sort of convenient, like they're just sort of right there. I'll say, do you do you mind if I offer some advice? It's usually well received. Um, a lot of times I've said, I think you just relax a little bit. Your body's too tense. Looks bad, but it also screws up the your ability to surf because now it's affected the form. Like you're sort of hunched over and bracing for, like, some sort of impact where you need to be more relaxed. The arms need to be relaxed, the shoulders should be relaxed. Surely you should be able to sort of slink back and into your knees and your hips and let those kind of bend and sort of sit into the board nicely. And so I think, um, what I, what I often think about style, there's always like there's two camps as the people that get it and, and style is usually it's like you know it when you see it. I said, how do you know that something's pornographic versus art or beauty? And the a lot of times the answer is, well, you know, when you see it, you know, something is gross or smut as opposed to art. Devon Howard: Like you go into an art gallery and there's naked, you know, images of a naked person. How is that not pornography? And it's like, well, you know, when you see it and it's like, style. You sort of know it when you see it, and then you have, um, the other end of that where people will feel style is just posing and looking cool, like you're putting your hands in the air to, to look like Alex Knost or Mickey Dora or Rob Machado, whoever the insert the surfer, you're trying to mimic their hand placement, and sometimes the hand placement provides no real function or value to the to the ride. Other than it. It might feel good, I guess, but it's not making you surf better. Um, where I like to, I often will. I will argue or believe that yes, there are people that pose and that does exist, I exist, grant you that. But good style also brings about, um, really good form. Or I would look at it a different way. Really good form pulls along the style into it. So if you have good form and whether that's in a barrel or a cutback, if your body is doing sort of the right things to make a beautiful, seamless ride easier. Devon Howard: Um, along with that usually comes a pretty good style if you don't have a good style. A lot of times the form is really working against your surfing. So for example, you got to do a cutback in your arm is up and back, um, front side. And let's say I'm turning this way. Front side cut back. Well, if my back arm is in the air waving behind me, I'm really struggling to get my body around and I'm actually having to work really hard for could potentially even injure yourself. Um, so that really hinders your surfing. But if I brought the arm in and drop it down and then have the arm kind of point toward where I want to go, the rest of my body goes. And it's actually quite easy to do the turn and consequently it looks much better. Doesn't look so awkward. Yeah. And and this could be said of your front arm. I've seen folks do cut backs with. I don't know why this happens, but sometimes their front arm is is sort of flailing and going behind them over here. Or they're extending and reaching too far. Um, so when there's this nice balance of the front and the back hand on the front side, cut back looks cool. Hey, that's great. If someone took a photo. Yeah, you probably put on the wall. Devon Howard: Looks pretty good. Looks like Michael Peterson or somebody or whatever. Joel Parkinson Ethan Ewing would be a really good contemporary example, I guess. And, um, but when it's all sort of like the form is there, it looks good, but now you're surfing better and the turn is faster and more complete. And also when you have nice form, you get the board in trim. What I mean by that is when when the boards in trim, it's sort of if you know anything about sailing, when everything's in alignment with the bow and the sail and the the boat is really hitting its top speed, there's nothing really hindering or dragging or fighting against um, that top trim speed. In surfing, you want to get to the top trim speed, because when you have speed, it's easier to complete maneuvers, it's less work. You go into the maneuvers with speed, you can do a lot better. It's like snowboarding. If anyone snowboarded you know that the first few days you're learning, the instructor will say, you just need to get going faster. You know what? We know that's scary. I don't want to go faster, but. Well, you're going so slow that that's why you're tumbling and you're catching an edge and you're getting stuck on the hill. Go faster. And then you see this light bulb moment with people like, my gosh, well, I should have just been going faster all along. Devon Howard: It's the same with surfing. You'll see people struggling to get trim speed because their form is so terrible. They're not understanding that the board is not even in trend. The board then noses out or they're waving their arms. They're there. They're there shaking their body like this, and they're trying to wiggle and do stuff. And you're watching the board underneath. And the board is just like on a gimbal, just like not getting any trim. It's just stop and go, stop and go. So it's this utter fail where if the person just relaxed a little bit, relax their arms, don't try to flop the body around and just get the idea of even going straight, which is hard to do on a chalkboard. Clearly, if you're a beginner, you probably shouldn't even be on the floor. Um, it's just going to be a struggle. Yet a board that's medium like a mid length or something, or a long board where you can kind of stand there and glide and trim, and then you can kind of get that form where your body is body's relaxed. And um, so a lot of times good style, I believe just comes with the right form, if that makes sense. Michael Frampton: I totally agree. Yeah. And that's what I think. That's what a surf coach, the surf coach's job is. And then it's once, once the person becomes at first the new, the better form will feel strange and maybe even, um, abnormal and uncomfortable. And it's only once that form becomes, uh, ingrained and you become comfortable with it, then it looks stylish. So it's it's maybe it's a precursor to style. Is is good form. Devon Howard: Yeah. Yeah, I think so. Um, another thing that I've thought about a lot in the last several years about style is, um, it, it sort of belies the, the technique or the difficulty of the maneuver. I think if it looks like someone's trying really super hard to do like a, let's say, a crazy air or just like the craziest turn where like, they blow, they like, blow the tail out and spin the board around and like, oh, whoa, that was insane. That was so difficult. But if you see somebody do a top speed cut back and they don't lose or drift the fins and they just go and mock 20 and just bam, come up fluid and seamless. You might say, man, that was really smooth. That was really stylish. But you don't often think that that was also really difficult. It's interesting. And, um, I'm not trying to get people to cheer more for the stylist, I guess, but I think it's worth sort of acknowledging that Mikey February or Torin Martin and some of those things they're doing, um, we're drawn to them because they're beautiful, which is undeniable. Um, but it's also interesting to think that these are the highest level people at the very upper echelon, at the top peak of, uh, you know, ability of sphere fame. And it something to be learned there, like to not just only acknowledge and only see the style which is great. Devon Howard: I love that I'll watch that stuff all day long, but to like hit the rewind button and look at what they're doing and how on rail that board is and how difficult it is to hold the line and not lose it. Because a lot of times, especially in performance, short boarding it, it's incredible what the surfers do. It's like it's a controlled failure of the surfing. So a lot of times when the fins release, it's a and I know this because I put a lot of thought into fins and foils and whatnot. A lot of the best high performance surfing maneuvers are, um, a controlled failure. Mhm. Um, they're pushing the limits of the board, and a lot of times the fins or the equipment can't really handle what these surfers are giving it. It's really interesting. Look at look at someone laying into a turn and their butt is sliding across the wave and the fins and the board and everything's sliding. Um, and then look at, like a mick Fanning or somebody who can hold that or Ethan Ewing and hold it all the way through. That's gnarly. That is just like peak form. But you're like, man, that was so smooth, but you're not ever saying that was so difficult to do. And I don't know what the point is I'm making. Devon Howard: I guess it comes back to, uh, like the kind of surfing I like to do. It's could be easily scoffed at as pretty easy, like, hey, mid-length surfing, you're just going straight. It's not really difficult. Um, but I don't know, man. At the highest levels. Like, I think what Torin Martin does, I think what February does if he's on a mid lake or other, you know, there's other surfers out there doing it and I cut a watch. Wow, look at that. 5/6 of the rail of that board is buried. And that's what I do myself. And that's to me that's the most thrilling thing is to bury that rail. How how far can I push this thing before it fails me? That's just really, really thrilling. You're just on the edge of disaster. You know, when you go on one of those seven foot boards, go to the bottom, slink, you know, and and coil up into the board and push it as hard as you can. Alex Moss does this really good as well. I can go on forever. People do a great job of this and they push all that board through. And then if you don't watch it, you know, if you're not too far forward or too much weight on your front foot, you'll slingshot up the face as this fast, free feeling, like a flying feeling that's highly addictive. Devon Howard: It's something that you just keep my people that are into those types of boards, they just keep chasing it. Um, and then down the line, do the same thing again. Now I'm going to bury a whole lot of rail on the cutback. How hard can I push it? And when I get down to the bottom of the wave, can I just keep going right back to the whitewater? Oh yes, I can. Damn. Just keep going. Sometimes it doesn't work out. Uh, and if you blow that, you're doing the split that's on the board. Now you've got a torn MCL. Um, but you're going full throttle. And that on that type of equipment. Um, the form is important so that you don't botch it because you really could get injured on some of these things. It probably someone who hears has got a laugh and think, this is a joke. Like, you're being really hyperbolic, bro. Come on. It's just a mid length and you're over water. Um, yeah. When you're pushing it really hard, it's it's it's thrilling and it's exciting and it is difficult to do and it's I think it's, um, it's really appealing to a lot of people. Um, and then they, you know, they go and try and do it and say, man, I, I wish I could surf like Rob Machado on this thing. Yeah. Michael Frampton: Well, all the surfers. Devon Howard: Take ten years. Michael Frampton: Yeah, if not longer. I think all the surfers you mention and the way you talk about their surfing is they're. Can they stay connected? You know, that as, as they're going through the, through the turns and in between turns, there's no there's no radical gain or loss of speed. Right. So that where they do the cutback isn't just a change of direction. It's in sync with that part of the wave. So they stay connected to the power source. So there's a certain it's a radical maneuver, but the speed doesn't waver too much, whereas some surfers might jump up to the top and bust the fins, and they might slow right down and then fall back down into the wave and go again. And it looks good in photos and maybe gets judged well in a competition. But it's not necessarily they're not as connected to the wave as other surfers. Devon Howard: Yeah. And again, that's debatable. I'm sure there's other people who will feel opposite of that. And that's great. You know, surfing's subjective. Yeah. And you know, in in just to bring it back a little bit to competition if that's okay. I know lots of people don't care about surf competition, but it is where a lot of the best surfing's happening. It's where the like the high bar is a lot of times um, and in the 60s and 70s style was just sort of, um, it wasn't like there was a style box that was ticked. It was it was sort of like this nice little cozy little wrapping around the surfing that was just a given, you know, so it didn't really need to be discussed. And then in the 80s, when in probably really the late 70s when the twin fin was really coming on with Mr. pushing that and Sean Thompson and other people chasing him. Um, they were packing in as many maneuvers as they possibly could into a ride to take away more points. And and this isn't my own thought or original idea. I've read these things elsewhere, and I agree with his take, which is somewhere along the way. The beauty just sort of eroded because the focus is now like we're getting really fixated on number of maneuvers. And this like real technical aspect of the difficulty of the maneuvers. Devon Howard: And surfing is already highly subjective. And you have this even more subjective thing, style. Um, and some of them may be, correct me if I'm wrong, maybe there was a style element at some point. I'm not aware of it, maybe there was. And um, so anyways, the 80s kind of moves on and there were clearly lots of stylish surfers. I mean, I grew up like many people my age, I'm 50, so I worshiped Tom Curren and I loved Tommy Carroll and a bunch of folks. There was lots of style, but there was also some people with some really hideous style, like Gary Elkerton and David and all these people. Nothing against them, man. Like, I think they're all incredible surfers, but there were some hideous styles and they crushed it in contests because they were just animals, like lacerating, tearing it up. And because the broader culture is being driven by whatever media is being consumed. And the media at the time was really sort of swiveling and craning and watching what's going on in competition, because that's like where the money's being plugged in. So those brands like, hey, we validate this thing we're doing, which is competition surfing. Um, and it just boiled down to what do you got to do to win this thing? And if making it look beautiful was not ever important, why would you spend time doing that? Tom Curran couldn't help himself. Devon Howard: He was stylish no matter what. But, um, lots, lots of other surfers weren't, and they did very well. Um, and so as the decade or two ensues, um, just the sort of broad mainstream viewpoint was, that style just wasn't important. However, the people that were in the sort of the underground, your locals, people that sort of stuck to the fringe and even the in people that short boarded as well, obviously still kind of kept style alive and in it. And the reason style always stayed alive is because the idea that human beings are drawn and attracted to beauty is as old as time, I think. I mean, who knows? When that began, I had a really nice chat with David Scales on, um, Surf Splendor, and we spoke about this there. So if you want to hear more about this, go check that out. I think it was a nice conversation, but I'll sort of reiterate some of the points there was. I read an article by Scott Hewlett in The Surfer's Journal, and he wrote quite a bit about style, and he illustrated a point that I'd never considered. And he sort of talking about this Greek artists. It was like 500 BC. I'm like, where is this thing going? Why are we talking about bronze sculptures? Um, but he made a really brilliant point, which is, okay, why does style matter? Why do we keep talking about it? Um, it's because beauty endures. Devon Howard: It is a common theme in human nature. Now, in recent times, I'd say beauty is being abandoned. If you look at modern architecture and just about any town, everything looks like shit. So I don't know what's going on there. We used to make beautiful buildings and now we're stopping doing it. Um, you we can't control that. But in surfing, we keep getting drawn back to this idea of beauty. Despite all those things that happen that we just talked about in the 80s and 90s competition, surfing and getting derailed. The broad culture still is always known instinctively that this is something that should, um, we should never stop cherishing. We should never stop celebrating. Um, and I think it's backed up by if you go to any Torin Martin video, go down to this thing below the screen that says views. A lot of Torin Martin videos have like a million plus views. Um, go over to Gabrielle Medina or anyone, and I'm not picking on these people. Just pick anybody. I'll bet you right now that Torin is is beating a lot of those surfers, 2 or 3 or 4 to 1 in terms of views. Now, you could argue that, well, there's more a lot more Gabriel Medina type surfers and there's not that many tour Martin's, I'll give you that. Devon Howard: But I, I think it's really because we are drawn to beauty. And so back to that Surfers Journal article, which is he he said, imagine taking those Greek statues and putting a surfboard underneath them. And when I was done reading the article, I went and I googled 500 BC Greek statue and I forget the artist's name, its Greek name, and I was instantly like, huh, look at that. You just put a surfboard under these statues. And some of the form and posture was a little bit silly, but a lot of it was pretty spot on. And then you go right over to Jerry Lopez, or you go to Mikey February or somebody else, and you can see that, um, there's a similarity to this idea of beauty. And then you go take it steps further, take it to, uh, any type of traditional dance. Have you ever seen ugly, poor form at any dance scenario where there's, like, serious people, whether it's ballroom or it's swing or it's foxtrot or it's tango or it's salsa, it's just incredibly beautiful. And it's this expression. The music is coming in. You're viewing and watching and feeling the music. There's that input, and the output is what these people are feeling. And so that our output in surfing is, is that form and that expression. Um, bullfighters. Same thing. Michael Frampton: Mhm. Devon Howard: Now the bullfighters have a little more of a pose at the end, the bulls coming in and the bull goes through the cape and they kind of hold it and they sort of like it's almost like a taunting of the bull. Like you didn't kill me. And look how calm I am right here. And a lot of the surfers in the 50s and 60s, they really admired the bullfighters as a great shot of Joey Cobell in Peru in the 60s. Guys never bullfight, but bull fought before, and he's down there and there's pictures of him in the bull ring with a Hawaiian print shirt on and doing the whole full Ole, you know. And so this idea of style really, um, is always going to matter and always be important to us. Um, so long as we don't ever abandon this, um, attraction of ours to beauty, you know, we're attracted to beautiful people. Clearly, that's a given, right? Um, but we're really drawn to beautiful, um, things art, architecture, wonderful garden, uh, an unmolested landscape. And so it I don't think people really care to give too much thought about style. Devon Howard: I think it's just sort of like I said, you know, when you see it, does it really need to be talked about? But I think in the context of a podcast like yours where people are trying to improve their surfing, um, having a real understanding that this isn't just for show style isn't just to look cool. It's not like putting on a cool outfit to look cool. Um, it's a real purpose driven thing. Certain articles of clothing look great, but they also have a purpose. Maybe it has SPF in it, maybe it's, um, built for a particular, um, activity to make it more comfortable. Um, for us, as I was saying in the very beginning, like the form, um, the style sort of follows the form. And if you, if you really think about your form and you're relaxed and you're sort of paying attention to the things that you talk about on your podcast or where people get their information, There's lots of different YouTube things, obviously. Um, you two could have nice style if you so desire. Michael Frampton: Yeah, I 100% agree. Surfing is first and foremost an art form. Mhm. It's only within competition that it becomes a sport. And then yes, sometimes we don't necessarily we sacrifice a bit of style for progression perhaps as well as what's happening in windsurfing is a sport. I still think the best of the best, the best of the best can buy. Like John John, he's number one at the moment for a reason. Not just because he's progressive, but because he he would do a progressive turn with calm style like no one else. Yeah, yeah. So I still have faith. I think there'll be the odd slip up. You know, Toledo's frantic aerial maneuver that goes higher than everyone else. The judges kind of. They can't not score it, you know. So, you know, there'll be blips in the system, glitches in the matrix, per se, until until the judges, you know, really start to consider style and and make that a point which hopefully, maybe one day they will. I think it would make, uh, I would make surfing more watchable. Devon Howard: Well, they have done so in longboard surfing. Yes. Longboard surfing has a much smaller audience, obviously. Um, but as I believe you and I talked about in the past, I think we did. I was at the WSL for a few years, and I worked on the longboard tour and built into the criteria is the word style also two other words flow and grace. Um, Style. Flow. Grace is in the criteria and it's hard, a little difficult to train the judges on it, you know? Um, it's highly subjective. It's something we could we could sit here for an hour, breaking down style, flow, grace. It will still feel like we barely scratched the surface. Um, because it's it is highly subjective. Just like art is just like music is just like food is just like, what kind of waves I like? Ah, it's just like that. It's just, um, really can be difficult to put your finger on it. But the way we did the training to help, um, these judges, if anyone cares to know this stuff is, um, have them really focus on somebody making something really difficult look easy, but also at the same time, dealt with sight of the positioning of the wave or the difficulty of the maneuver, because to the untrained eye, you could you could see someone doing a nose ride and maybe they're doing something really what you may think is beautiful on the nose. Devon Howard: Maybe their arms are held a certain way. It just looks kind of like cool. But if you pay close attention, they're like ten feet in front of the pocket and you're like, that's not that hard to do. Mhm. So the so what helps is in the other part of the criteria is um, the degree of difficulty that is part of it. So you have to, you're looking at the style of flow and grace but you're applying it to are these surfers in the pocket. Is the surfer using their rail or are they lifting the board out of the water? Because to lift the longboard out of the water and turn it as far easier than engaging the rail in the water and pushing it through a turn. That's much more difficult. And so it has been applied in longboard surfing. Let's see if we can. If anyone cares, we could try to do a campaign to get the Shortboard tour to break more. Michael Frampton: I'm with you. I'm with you. Ultimately, I do think it shines through and the cream always rises to the top. But it would be nice if it was literally in the criteria, and it was considered by each surfer to be a worthy consideration. Um, coming back to form, let me I'm going to share my screen with you. Let me. Hopefully this works. Oh, shit. Did that work? Can you see my screen? Devon Howard: I think so. Let me move my notes here a little bit. Oops. Too many things around here. I'm terrible at computer stuff, but second. So where it is now? Okay, I can see it now. Michael Frampton: So there's an example of a, you know, if that was placed on the nose of a longboard, it'd be quite cool. Devon Howard: Yeah, it's pretty close. Michael Frampton: But then also so here's you see on the left there is the way that a baby learns to stand now because the infant is so weak, there's only one way that they can learn to roll over and learn to stand up and hold themselves. Because their muscles are so weak, their bones have to be placed so accurately in order for them to be able to stand and move. And that's how we learn because of our our weakness and our slow progression into strength, we learn the most efficient way possible. Now it's the athletes that maintain that neurological efficiency that end up with the best form naturally, i.e. the way Kelly Slater's standing there in those barrels. Not only is he standing in a very similar way to the infant there, he's also very calm and relaxed in that position. Devon Howard: Yeah, I would definitely not be that calm in that way. Those waves. Michael Frampton: Exactly. So it does come back to to form. And it's also when when an athlete is standing with their joints in DNS, we call it joint centration and that the bones are stacked on top on top of each other in a very efficient way. It just looks right. Not only does it look right the way the forces are spread throughout the body, it doesn't feel hard. Anyone who's ever tried, if anyone, has ever tried to skate a vert ramp, for example, half pipe, it feels like, oh man, my legs aren't strong enough. How do people and then you watch a 12 year old just go up and down. They're not doing it because their legs are stronger than yours. They're not even doing it because they're stronger relative to their body weight. They're doing it because they're stacking themselves. Their bones and their joints are centered properly, and the force is being transferred throughout their entire body through the center of the bone and into the skateboard. Whereas someone who doesn't know what they're doing, they're trying to muscle their way through it. They only does it feel terrible. It looks terrible. Yeah. So I agree with that. Yeah. So it does come back to efficiency. And you said no good style is that you know it when you see it. My question to you is, do you know it when you feel it? Devon Howard: Yes. Um, I believe so. Um, I know, um, I've even had moments where I just didn't feel like I was in the right form. It just didn't the the turn didn't feel good or the particular move movement. Maybe it's a nose ride or something. Didn't feel great. And if you get a chance to be lucky enough to come across a video or a photo of that moment, you're like, mm, yeah, that that is actually backs it up. It looks a bit awkward. It looks a bit off. So and you definitely can feel good style because you like it, like it's all tethered to, to itself. Like it's it feels good. It looks good. Um, and it, it's sort of like carries on the ride. It's it's like when you get off the very beginning of the ride and the first bottom turn is successful and your feet are in the right place. It really sets up the rest of the ride. Um, if you botch that, let's say you screw it up getting to your feet or off the bottom. Then you get you. You screw up the pace of the wave. So, um, yeah, I've had times where my feet were too far forward or back or whatever. Um, or I hit a chop and my arms sort of waved a little bit, and then I got out of that rhythm. Um, and that didn't that definitely didn't feel good. And it certainly didn't, because it looked like I was rolling up the windows as opposed to my arms being sort of down and going the direction that I want to be headed. Devon Howard: A lot of times the front end, the back end oftentimes are going the direction you want to go. I find that to be very helpful, and that feels good to me because I feel really centered. I or you'd say stacked. You know, I never thought of it that way, but, um, so yeah, I would agree. I would say you definitely. You definitely feel it. Um, my own belief is I don't I don't do anything in the style that I feel is what's called contrived, where I'm trying to present before of some kind that it has a certain look. The form I have is, is really based off of function, and that's because I watched the generation two ahead of me at a waves like wind and sea and Cardiff Reef, and I watched the elders and what the I really watched closely what they were doing. How they were sinking down into the board. And I noticed that their hands, their fingers were never apart. Their, um, hand gestures were sort of always in the direction of where their board and body was heading. It was like this stacking or centering. He kind of like hunkered down, but they never looked stiff or scared or afraid of anything or timid. It was very, a very confident, almost like a martial artist, like a kung fu person or something that has confidence in the form of that particular move. Devon Howard: Um, the really good surfers, the real standout surfers. I, I identified that pretty young and I said, I want I need to learn how to do that. Um, so it was never a contrived thing, like, I need to look good and look cool. I just knew that that was good surfing. And as a consequence of learning going through that, it also felt really good. It was like a good golf swing. I don't golf at all, but I have friends who do and I can understand like how much work they put into that golf swing. And when they do that, clearly it looks good from a distance because they hit the ball and it goes right where they want it to go. So that's pretty awesome. But they'll tell you it feels good. It's like uh, or baseball. If you've ever played baseball, you know the feeling of a homerun. There's a sound of the bat and the feel through the bat into your hands, and you feel it. The follow through of the swing. You're like, that ball is out of here. It's pretty cool. Um, Mhm. A reward to not that it's work but there's sort of like this payoff and a reward to the dedication that it took to learn that, that art form. Mhm. Michael Frampton: But it always comes back to the feeling. Yeah. Devon Howard: It really does. Yeah I didn't I haven't put too much thought into the feeling piece of it. But um yeah. You know it's disgusting and really dumb and shallow. But I've, I've had moments where the way where the ride did it feel good, and I didn't even finish the wave. I was so not into the feeling. I just kicked out. I was like, I've botched this thing so bad that someone else just needs to finish it. I'm just. I just kick out and I go back up to the top and kind of regroup and go, what? What just went wrong there? And then, you know, like surfing. Everyone surfs for different reasons too. Like for some people, surfing is a couple times a month. It's an escape for them. They don't care if they surf. Well, that's not what they're there for. Michael Frampton: Like they're probably not listening to this, though. Devon Howard: Probably not. Um, and I like I've had people say, man, you look so serious when you're surfing. I'm like, I'm pretty serious about it. Like it? I'm to me, it's so strange. It's serious fun and and it's as I've gotten older, I haven't lost interest in it. It's like a it's like a hunt to me. It's really weird. No, and I don't I don't know if it's just some human thing of like the game and the chess moves and the everything involved with observing patterns. I've observed patterns for decades, and now I see the patterns, and the benefit for me is I know which wave to pick. I know where to beat. And by knowing that I've set up the ride and therefore I've sort of like predetermined this feeling that I'm after, which is, as I said, it's highly addicting. Surfing like you, you never satiated. Why is that? You always want another one. You always want more. Um. And but all through this process, the hunt, the enjoying, understanding the patterns, the chasing, the moment, the feeling. Um, there's a there's a tremendous sense of there's like a reward when all the elements have come together and you apply everything you've learned. It's a really cool feeling. I think you could say that about a lot of things in life, whatever your or your craft is. Devon Howard: And for me, surfing isn't just like some waste of time thing, like that's part of it. That's a bonus to me. Like, hey, I'm not doing chores or I'm not at work. That's fantastic. I will take that. But it's also like a craft. It's like a, it's a, it's it's a way I express myself. Some people do that through building things out of wood in their garage or a number of other things. Um, so the style piece of it, it's just sort of come along with it. It never was like, I'm going to really think about this super duper hard. Um, and you just, you learn through time that they the style and the and the form, they sort of, like, are tied together, you know, and you kind of look at it this way, and then you go back and look at it the other way, and they really come together nicely. And if you fight them, you're surfing. You're not going to surf as well. If you're not surfing as well, you're not going to feel it as right. You won't feel that thing we just talked about. Um, and then consequently, not that not that that many people care, but you're surfing is going to be kind of ugly. Michael Frampton: Thing is. Michael Frampton: It'll. Michael Frampton: Because when you are, when you're connected and you're efficient, it feels better. Simple as that. It feels better if you if you close your eyes and just imagine, like an image or a video section of someone who epitomizes style, are they? What are they feeling in the moment? Are they worried about what they look like? No, no. Are they are they are they scared? No. Are they putting in a ton of effort? Devon Howard: I would say no. Michael Frampton: It's in the. Devon Howard: Moment. Yeah. There's probably a small number of people who. It's contrived, like you could go to Byron Bay. Sorry. Sorry. Byron Bay. They pick on you right now. You could go to Malibu. Um, pick your spot. Ah, maybe Montego Bay. I don't know, uh, way inside there. There's going to be places where there are folks that, for whatever reason, this. Well, like, who cares? There's no, like, laws or rules. Like, I'm not mad about this. It's just they're just observations. That's it. They're really controlled. It's just so contrived. They're sort of putting the form or I'm sorry, let me back up. They're putting the presentation ahead of the form. You know, they're worried about all the bells and whistles and the dressing, but, like, at the core of all the ingredients going into making this beautiful thing, they've got it all wrong, you know? And so, um, you. Michael Frampton: Can always smell that though, I think. Devon Howard: And it's a missed opportunity for them. Uh, does it change my life or your life or anybody listening? You do. You, man. Like, I'm very libertarian in that way. I don't really care. But, um, we're on a podcast called Surf Mastery, so we're we're we're nerding out. And if you're here to get better, don't get caught up in the presentation. Get caught up in the form. The presentation is going to come along. And yeah, it's just like this beautiful byproduct. You don't have to really. You shouldn't have to try to have good style. You should you should try to be good at surfing. And then once you have that confidence, you know, if you see a photo or catch a surf line, rewind. If you can see that far and you happen to notice that your your hands are bent at the wrist and going in instead of out, or you happen to notice that your fingers are wide apart, you could pull them in and it looks better, but it also centers and stacks you. You start feeling more stacked over your board, and once you start doing that, it starts improving. Your style just starts improving. And, um, it's interesting that tube riding, this is what we talked about with David the other day, I think. Or maybe we didn't, I can't remember, but he someone I was talking to you about. It's interesting that almost all good tube writing has good style. Most of it you You rarely see someone with really hideous style getting as sick barrel. Yeah. Michael Frampton: So yeah, because the, the, the the wave will hit them in the butt with their post dance. They just don't they don't fit in their ugly. Devon Howard: Yeah I think it's true. He's a lesson there that can be applied to other maneuvers like but but it's not always true. That good tube style now equates to this beautiful style of the face. You'll see what doesn't fall apart. Um. Why is that? I don't know exactly. Maybe the. I think one thing that could help with style, um, from a technique standpoint, is, um, don't rush your surfing. I've noticed, like, folks that, remember we were talking earlier about breaking trim, um, and seeing people that are trying to wiggle. They're sort of swaying. A lot of times it's the upper body that's swaying when that's not really helping them in any way. It's not benefiting the the ride. It's causing the board to lift out of the water and side to side motion, typically. And now you're breaking the trip. Now in a short board. A short board needs to be side to side, but it's also got to be pushed so that it's it's building momentum in a forward fashion. The people that are not very good are kind of not going anywhere, because they don't understand that. They're just sort of wiggling their arms and breaking the trim. Devon Howard: Um, and I think if you just. Yeah, just like think about being a little bit more quiet, um, and, and being a little bit more quiet means you're not in a big hurry like you don't if you're not at a level where you need to try to get eight maneuvers in the wave, don't do it. Take take your time and get the two really nice maneuvers and those will feel really good. Be patient off the bottom when you're. Let's start from the beginning. You go and you paddle in. You go to do a bottom turn. Just be there in that moment with that bottom turn. Don't be thinking about the four moves you want to do down the line, because now it becomes this rut here. You're hurrying up the surfing, and now you're kind of like screwing up the pace of the ride. You're screwing up the pace of the wave. And when you do that, now you're out of sync. When you're out of sync, it doesn't feel or look good. So I think the best advice to like, how do I get good stop, start with the foreign and don't rush your surfing. Devon Howard: Don't try to contrive it. Don't try to Like I'm gonna have. Make sure my hands are up here and I'll go like this. And I'm looking backwards and going, okay, that's go. You do you. But you know, that's not helping you surf better. Michael Frampton: Yeah, yeah. You can you can be quick without being rushed. Devon Howard: Exactly. Michael Frampton: Like like a drummer that's drumming at 160 beats per minute. If they're ahead of the beat slightly. It sounds rushed, but if they're on the beat, it's in time. It's rhythm and they're nice and relaxed. They're still fast. They're just not rushed, utterly. And it's interesting you mentioned, like the hands curled and like this. If your hands are curled in like this, you will feel scared. Your physiology affects your emotions. That's a scared posture. That's a protective posture. So if you forcefully open up your hands, like Tony Robbins says, stand up tall and and straight and relaxed, you will feel better. But if you force yourself to smile, you will feel better inside. So I think that, you know, a bit of video analysis and analyzing your own style can actually and changing it can actually make surfing feel better as well. But, um, I love those tips. You just, um, said and it was a good summary and it's a great place to end. Devin, thank you so much. Devon Howard: All right. I hope we, uh, made some sense there. It's fun to talk about it, because I've felt this stuff for a long time, but I don't really ever talk about it. And it's only just in recent times. And, um, I gotta thank Scott Hulett from The Surfer's Journal for getting the gears going in my mind of how to think about this stuff. Um, it's fun to share it, so I hope people get some value out of this conversation. Michael Frampton: Yeah. Oh, definitely. Definitely. I mean, we can if you come up with more thoughts on it, let me know. We get you back on and we'll expand because it's an important topic. Devon Howard: Well, we're, um, we're in the middle of some fin placement on a mid lane, so I got to get back down there. So I also got this, um, dust down here. Michael Frampton: All right. Thanks, Devin. I'll let you write. You get back to it. Devon Howard: All right. Thank you. Michael. See you.Devon Howard On Surf Mastery Podcast Devon Howard On Surf Mastery Podcast

On this episode of the world's greatest action sports podcast, Chris and Todd talk Olympic surf practice, big swell heading towards, there are 727,382 surfers in Australia, Tijuana River Sewage sucks, Stephanie Gilmore pays tribute to Tom Curren, Scarlett Johansson clowns surf commentators, WaterBros doc is amazing, skaters outsmart San Francisco cops, Andy Anderson's new part “Crazy Wisdom” rips, Todd went to snowboard summer camp, slalom skateboarding is still a thing, what's happening in House Of The Dragons, Furiosa shreds, all your questions answered, and so much more. Presented by: Hansen Surfboards @hansensurf Sun Bum @sunbum By Spy Optics @spyoptic Bachan's Japanese BBQ Sauce @trybachans MachuPicchu Energy @machupicchu.energy Pannikin Coffee And Tea @pannikincoffeeandtea Slobber @slobber.xyz Bubs Naturals @bubsnatruals New Greens @newgreens Pedal Electric @pedal.electric Vesyl Shipping Vesyl.com Mint Tours @minttours Die Cut Stickers @diecutstickersdotcom

Episode #19 (English). Guest: MC Dave Mailman : Master of the - Boardsports - Community Ex-Marketing Director Quiksilver Europe, ex-President Association of Surfing Professionals Europe, Journalist, Speaker, Voice Over Artist, Consultant Basically everyone in the Action Sports industry knows Dave Mailman. And that's no surprise: for over 20 years, he was the voice behind the biggest surfing and snowboarding events across the Old Continent and has commented hundreds of heats on the beach or on webcasts. Be that as it may, few actually know Dave's story in detail. It's the story of a young Californian with a passion for skateboarding and surfing, who took French lesson in high school. He then came to spend a summer on the Basque coast…but basically never left. It was the heyday of surfing, skateboarding and snowboarding and Dave was lucky enough to witness the founding moments of this movement. Having mastered the languages of both Tom Curren and Serge Vitelli, he penned articles in the snowboard magazine OnBoard. After a quick passage with Arnette, Dave arrived at Quiksilver to take over as Head of marketing for Europe. Dave tells us about this blossoming time when ideas (shootings, trips, events) overruled budgets. He is namely to thank for the now iconic Bowlriders contest in Marseille. He'll tell us all about how came about and his memories of that project. It will also give us a chance to hear how « The Mountain and the Wave » was able to infiltrate the core skate market, the missing puzzle piece in their catalog. For this 19th episode, Dave will also discuss the various subsequent steps of his career: 4 years as President of the ASP Europe, his work on the Freeride World Tour, the Verbier Extreme and even various editorial projects he's worked on since then (including podcasts!). Among many other subjects. A fascinating new episode on the history of our Action Sports industry, seen through the lens the most American of our European key players. 

 Enjoy the ride. Recorded in the MACS premises in St Vincent de Tyrosse on January 25th 2024. Editorial production: EuroSIMA Animation: Romain Ferrand / Rémi Chaussemiche
 Technical production: Fred de Bailliencourt
 Photos: Stéphane Robin /// Français (Episode en anglais) Tout le monde - ou presque - connaît Dave Mailman dans le milieu européen de l'Action Sports. Et pour cause : il est depuis plus de 20 ans la voix de certains des plus gros événements surf et snowboard du Vieux-Continent.

En revanche, peu de monde connaît sans doute en détail l'histoire de Dave. Celle d'un jeune californien venu passer un été sur la Côte Basque dans les années 90 et n'en est pour ainsi dire jamais reparti. L'époque coïncidait avec le boom du surf, du skate et du snowboard, et Dave se fera le témoin privilégié de moments fondateurs de ce mouvement. Maîtrisant la langue de Tom Curren comme celle de Serge Vitelli, il nourrit d'abord les pages du mag européen de snow OnBoard, puis - après un bref passage chez Arnette - débarque chez Quiksilver dont il prendra la direction marketing Europe. Dave raconte cette époque où les idées (shootings, trips, événements) primaient sur les budgets. C'est notamment à lui que l'on doit le mythique contest Bowlriders de Marseille dont il nous raconte les origines et partage ses souvenirs. Dave raconte également la suite : la présidence de l'ASP Europe pendant 4 ans, le Freeride World Tour, le Verbier Extreme et les divers projets éditoriaux menés depuis. Parmi plein d'autres choses. Un épisode passionnant sur l'histoire de notre industrie des sports de glisse, vue par le prisme du plus Américain de ses acteurs européens. Retrouvez nos podcasts sur Insideurosima.com et sur Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube et Deezer.

Guest Tom Curren explores the fascinating realm of UFOs and UAPs, examining different facets of science, firsthand experiences, and beyond. His website, "What's up with UFOs?", is divided into four key categories highlighted in these: video clips of: flying objects, hard science, direct experience, and institutional dynamics. Tom goes into a survey he conducted on the UFO topic with surprising results.Show NotesBecome a supporter of this podcast: https://www.spreaker.com/podcast/podcast-ufo--5922140/support.

Saison 5 - Episode n°55 (à quelques épisodes près…) - Enregistré à Anglet le 16 mai 2024 Animation : Romain Ferrand / Rémi Chaussemiche
 Réalisation technique : Fred de Bailliencourt Invité : Paul Duvignau On entend parfois parler de surf comme d'un art, sans toujours parvenir à en saisir l'aspect créatif. On n'a pas ce problème avec Paul Duvignau.
A 27 ans, le Landais est un vrai touche-à-tout dont la créativité ne semble pas avoir de limites et lui a permis de se construire un profil à part, et un univers bien à lui. Quand, dans sa jeune adolescence, tous ses copains d'Hossegor cherchaient à déchirer le spot avec le dernier shortboard à la mode, lui se pointait au pic en longboard ou en alaïa. Une ouverture d'esprit et une curiosité qui l'amenèrent assez vite à se saisir d'un rabot et se bricoler un atelier dans le jardin familial. A 18 ans, le jeune shaper s'envola pour un tour du monde en solo - avec un petit stop chez Tom Curren, l'ami de la famille qui ridait déjà ses planches - afin de nourrir sa quête de vagues et perfectionner ses shapes. Il met aujourd'hui son savoir-faire en application dans son atelier d'Angresse où se côtoient planches, bécanes et 4x4 ; odeurs de résine, de bois et d'huile de moteur.

 Niveau surf, Paul aime manier ses grandes planches dans tout type de conditions y compris (voire surtout) les plus solides. S'il a fait de la Nord son jardin et le spot de certains de ses exploits (il a gagné le Rip Curl La Nord Challenge deux fois), il fait partie des rares à s'être frotté à Belharra à la rame. Il évoque en détail ces quêtes, et les moyens/sacrifices (matériel, entraînements…) mis en œuvre toutes ces années pour y parvenir. Depuis quelques temps, le touche-à-tout s'est passionné pour la mécanique, les bagnoles et les bécanes, engins parfaits pour alimenter sa quête de liberté, d'aventures et d'explorations en tout genre. La 2CV, longtemps indissociable de Paul, a depuis été remplacée par un Defender tout équipé avec lequel il a embarqué cet hiver pour un trip de 3 mois sur la côte marocaine. Et c'est justement sur ce périple hors des sentiers battus que portera le documentaire Southern Roads qui sort en ce mois-ci (juin 2024). Bref, une discussion hyper intéressante avec un invité qui, malgré son jeune âge, fait preuve d'une maturité plutôt bluffante et sait où il va. On le suit ? Bonne écoute. > Retrouvez tous nos épisodes sur SoundCloud, Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, YouTube et Deezer Faites un don unique ou mensuel à Impact Zone - projet 100% bénévole - via fr.tipeee.com/impactzonesurfpodcast pour contribuer à la production du podcast. Merci pour votre fidélité, vos retours et vos partages. 
A très vite Romain, Rémi & Fredo.

On this edition of SCOUTED Weekly, Tom Curren is joined by Phil Costa and Stephen Ganavas to discuss the flag #discourse, Endrick's rise, whether Germany are any good or not and what the hell Didier Deschamps is smoking. Plus Watchlists, This Week On Notebook and, of course, Handbook History. Read our work: scoutednotebook.com

Aloha Everyone, welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast.     We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world! Discover with me their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more! Today with us, from Houston, Texas, legendary surf photographer Jimmy Metyko. We discussed with him about his amazing career, surf, surf photography and much more!

Welcome to the Cold Beer Surf Club. Your host is none other than pro surfer, musician, gardener, boat owner, Santa Barbara lifer, and 805 Beer athlete Conner Coffin. In the inaugural episode, he kicks things off with special guest Chris Shiflett, lead guitarist for the Foo Fighters. Despite their different journeys around the globe - Conner on the Championship Tour, Chris on countless rock and roll tours - they connect over tour life, the parties and temptations of youth, the day-to-day toll on your body, and battling nerves. A fellow Santa Barbara local, Chris looks back at starting his career in the SB music scene, the bands that influenced him most, turning his passion into his profession, his first break in the punk band No Use For A Name, and how he joined Foo Fighters. Conner and Chris also nerd out on guitar gear, give some gardening tips, and relive a memorable surf session with Tom Curren and Bobby Martinez. New episodes drop monthly. Follow, subscribe, and join the Club now. Follow Conner Coffin. Follow Chris Shiflett. Learn more about Chris, listen to his podcast, Shred with Shifty, and check out his latest album Lost At Sea. Get the latest 805 content, the gear, and of course, the beer. Join the conversation, follow the league, and stay updated on all things WSL.

Tom Curren Companies has been a leader in home remodeling space throughout Massachusetts since 1986. They are a full-service home remodeling company, which means they can complete a wide variety of residential projects without the need to seek the help of multiple contractors. They do a lot of things in-house and run a fantastic operation.

Set aside some time for this doozy of an episode! It could have happened anytime, anywhere. But our guest's story takes place in Santa Barbara, California from 1980 to 1983. Four short years thatsaw a giant leap forward in the development of West Coast surfing, design, performance and image. It was set off by a rare combination of individuals, innovation and illumination,against a backdrop of some of the best seasons of surf in two decades. Some have called this California's Halcyon Days.Our Guest Jimmy Metyko, from Houston, Texas, has maintained a multi-faceted, successful career path in fields of photography, art, graphic design, fashion design, brand creation, development and marketing by the application of one simple strategy: staying ahead of the curve. And in some cases, even designing the curve.His recently released book, Shaping Surf History, by Rizzoli Publishing, is out now and it documents a very special time and place in surfing. It is the Stuff of legend and lore. He documents the rise of a quiet and unassuming surfing savant, his mentor and shaper, a sudden arrival of a world Champion and a crew of surfers that would go on to shape the future of surfing. I am of course talking about Tom Curren, Al Merrick, Shaun Tomson and the Santa Barbara surf scene. Jimmy Metyko is our guest on this episode. For more information on JImmy Metyko's work you can go to https://www.jimmymetykodesign.com orfollow him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/jimmymetyko.gallery/To find out where you can puchase Shaping Surf HIstory you can go to: https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847873562 The Swell Season Podcast is recorded by The NewsStand Studio at Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan and is distributed by The Swell Season Surf Radio Network. www.swellseasonsurfradio.com Music: Artis: Crosb, Stills, Nash and YoungSong: Long May You RunAlbum: Long May You Run

Surf photographer Jimmy Metyko joins the podcast. He talks about his new book “Shaping Surf History: Tom Curren and Al Merrick, California 1980-1983,” which chronicles the influential wave-riding and surfing culture in Southern California, specifically Santa Barbara County, in the early 1980s. He discusses how he became a surf photographer and moved from his hometown of Houston, Texas, to be around and capture the surfing of up-and-comers at the time, like the legendary 1977 World Champion Shaun Tomson and pre-3x World Champion Tom Curren. He reflects on his experience photographing and traveling with this elite group of surfers, what it was like to witness firsthand the progression of surfing with the birth of the thruster and its refinement by Channel Islands Surfboards spearhead Al Merrick, and how passionate he is about surfing but even more about capturing surfers in his photographs. Learn more about Jimmy and follow him here. Order your copy of “Shaping Surf History.” Watch the Rip Curl WSL Finals live September 8-16.  Join the conversation by following The Lineup podcast with Dave Prodan on Instagram and subscribing to our YouTube channel. Get the latest WSL rankings, news, and event info. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

  Brian and Lee talk with Tom Curren, author of the book “All Join Hands”. Find out the life, landscape and culture of New England. The post The Brian and Lee Show: Interview with Tom Curren appeared first on WWDB-AM.

Depois de um mês do outro lado do Atlântico, onde gravou 3 episódios dividindo o microfone com João Valente, Julio Adler volta ao paraíso purgatório da beleza e do caos e, ombro a ombro com Bruno Bocayuva, conduz o Boia 198 como líder de charanga reunida na última hora. Nada de ensaio, instrumentos que vão e vem, referências de toda sorte e aquela alegria de viver que só a desordem proporciona. Boia é mais Boia com nossas obsessões vibrando sem filtro e sem freio. Mané Garrincha tabela com Michael Peterson, Jack McCoy ignora Tom Curren, Miles Davis dá uma dura no Chet Baker e o Rei Kamehameha II visita D. Pedro I. Os números musicais chegam com Antônio Carlos e Jocafi com Nord West na abertura e os The Bad Plus com o cover do Queen, We Are The Champions, no fechamento. A gente nem sente os pés no chão. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/boia/message

Episode  #10 (Français/French). Enregistré à Soorts le 7 novembre 2002. (English version below) Invitée : Marie-Pascale Delanne Le surf est une grande famille. Pour Marie-Pascale Delanne, c'est doublement vrai. La fratrie Delanne a écrit certaines des premières pages de l'histoire du surf français, en partie depuis la Côte des Basques. Marie-Pascale a suivi le pas. Lors d'un voyage en Californie à 16 ans, elle rencontrera Tom Curren, futur double Champion du monde de surf avec qui elle aura deux enfants, Lee Ann et Nathan. Au micro d'Inside Eurosima, MP (lire "èmpi") raconte ses premiers pas dans le surf, puis cette rencontre avec Tom qui allait pousser les deux à parcourir la planète et suivre le circuit mondial pendant de nombreuses années. Une place de choix qui lui permettra de signer des piges dans Surf Session dès le premier numéro. Des années plus tard, elle deviendra rédactrice en chef de Trip Surf Magazine puis de Girl Power, le premier mag de glisse français 100% féminin. En 2005, elle décidera de "passer chez l'annonceur” en rejoignant Rip Curl Europe en tant que responsable communication, poste qu'elle occupe toujours aujourd'hui. De la gestion des relations presse à l'apparition des réseaux sociaux, de l'évolution du paysage médiatique surf au rachat de la marque par Kathmandu en passant par les phénomènes Alana Blanchard ou Gabriel Medina, Marie-Pascale raconte les évolutions de son métier et les grands moments de Rip Curl. Elle partage aussi sa vision de l'industrie, les enjeux à venir dont celui de la place des femmes. Le surf, une affaire de famille, au sens large. Bonne écoute. Production éditoriale : EUROSIMA 
Animation : Romain Ferrand / Rémi Chaussemiche
 Réalisation technique : Fred de Bailliencourt
 Photo : Stéphane Robin Suivez Inside Eurosima sur Instagram, Facebook et Linkedin. Retrouvez nos podcasts sur Insideurosima.com et sur Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Spotify, Google Podcasts et Deezer. /// English The surfing world is like a big family and for Marie-Pascale Delanne, it's truer than for most. The Delanne siblings wrote some of the first pages in the history of surfing in France, partly right here on the Côte des Basques and Marie- Pascale was no exception. While traveling in California at 16 years-old, she met Tom Curren, who would become both a two-time Surfing World Champion as well as the father of her two children, Lee Ann and Nathan. She spent some time with us at Eurosima to tell us about her first steps in surfing and how meeting Tom would lead them both to travel all over the world, following the world tour for several years. Such experience and her unique perspective would then lead her to write some articles in Surf Session magazine as early as the first issue. Years later, she would become the Editor in chief of Trip Surf Magazine and eventually Girl Power, the very first French surfing magazine just for girls. In 2005, she decided to hop over to the “commercial” side by joining the team at Rip Curl Europe as Communications Manager, a position she still holds today. From managing the press to the rise of social media, from the evolution of media in general to the brand's take-over by Khatmandu, Marie-Pascale will tell us all about the evolutions of her trade and key moments in the Rip Curl story. She will also discuss iconic figures like Alana Blanchard or Gabriel Medina and give us her perspective on how the industry is developing, the challenges it will have to face in the future and in particular, the place of women in this environment. Surfing is a family, in every sense of the word. Enjoy the ride. Editorial production: EUROSIMA 
Animation: Romain Ferrand / Rémi Chaussemiche
 Technical production: Fred de Bailliencourt 
Photo: Stéphane Robin Listen to all our episodes on Insideurosima.com and Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Spotify, Google Podcasts and Deezer.

At This year's Rip Curl Bells Beach Easter Classic's 60th Anniversary, Tom Curren and Mark Occhilupo–two of surfing's most influential characters and rivals–competed in a special Heritage Heat. The Curren/Occy Rivalry is stuff of legends. Many middle aged men get weak in the knees just mentioning the two. But.. Why? Why do we care so much about this rivalry? What is its importance to pro surfing? Who are these two surfers that captured our imaginations and have inspired generations of surfers? We dive in and give context to surf history. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Bells is on an da boyz are ready to go Off! Chad & Taylor form Surfival League stop by their friendly neighborhood bar called The Frothcast and sip some suds with their weird bud Hendo. Chaos ensues as the Loser's Lair has finally come to fruition and the bradas take a trip down memory lane honoring Mr Owen Wright and his last dance at Bells. Plus, does working out give you phantom shits? Is Rio dancing on the sand as we all go off the rails on a Caity train? And will tom Curren play Tom Curren in 'Board In The Stone'? Only Gunther truly knows... Board In The Stone by Chad Dog: https://hostevie.com/blog/surf-movie/ ------ @TheFrothcast x @Hendo_Froth @Surfival_League --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/thefrothcast/message

Our guest for the third episode of the Tracks Podcast hosted by Luke Kennedy is Tom Curren.In the early 80s Tom Curren hit the scene as the Californian prodigy with the trademark double-pump bottom and the magnetic style.Between 1985 and 1990 Tom claimed three world titles. The 1990 title was famously won by surfing events all the way through from the trials stage. A record not even Kelly Slater will ever match. After setting a new benchmark for pro surfing, Tom hung up the singlet and influenced surfing from an entirely different perspective. Roaming the globe as part of the Rip Curl Search he carved an indelible path as a free surfer – it was the same Tom Curren but there were new lines, different boards and better waves. Tom helped pave the way for a whole generation to choose the free surfing path. We caught up with Tom while he was in Australia for the 25th anniversary of his cult classic film, searching for Tom Curren.Subscribe to Tracks and receive a tactile tome of surfing treasures delivered to your doorstep.https://tracksmag.com.au/subscriptionsCheck out our range of apparel, photo prints and classic covers at the Tracks Mag Store. https://tracksmag.com.au/store

Rip Curl and the Searching for Tom Curren 25th Anniversary Screenings Presents... Blitzed: Pure. Tour. Nerdism. Have you been copping the Australian Regional Qualifying Series over the past three months? Fwaaaaark it's going absolutely bonkas on there! Deadly caught up with Lennox Head beast man Mikey McDonagh who's caught fire to win two of his last three starts. Can he qualify for a second tilt on the Changaz? And if he does, what the hell is that Changaz gonna look like now that France and Haleiwa are rumoured to be GORN???!!! See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Our guest this week is a Trail Blazer and Pioneer in the Japanese Surf Culture, opening a Surf Shop in 1971. With a passion in Filming and Photography he was able to Capture some of Surfing's most Historic Moments! But, it was until meeting and sponsoring Tom Curren that really put Himself and The Surf Shop on the world stage by opening a Location in Huntington Beach in the 1980's. He not only created a very successful Surf Shop Business, but he was also a huge influence and was instrumental in the development and successes of Tom Curren. We are beyond stoked and privileged to sit down and hear his story. We welcome The Sensei - Mr.Masahiko “KITO-SAN" Kito!See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.

Surfing's own Forrest Gump joins us this week on Barrelled. Ryan Von Dresslet has had quite the adventure on his journey as a surfboard Shaper. From getting kicked out of a shaping bay in Durban by none other than Matt Biolas to shaping alongside Grant Twiggy Baker, Ryan has seen some and done some. We had a ball sitting down in the #Shedquarters with Von - Enjoying a couple of Cheeky Monkey's finest brews. Some amazing stories, look out for the time he got tubed off his head at Mundaka after (rightly) juding that Tom Curren was too high in the barrell. Get into it Flegends!

The stylist on his foray into professional surfing, his proudest moments, commercialism, The Search, the California waves that shaped him, surfboard design, and his biggest inspirations.   Santa Barbara-native Tom Curren championed athleticism in surfing with his emergence on the ASP World Tour in 1983. Highly regarded for his humility and integrity, Curren has served as one of the most inspirational figures in the surfing community. On the 25th anniversary year of his film Searching for Tom Curren, Tom sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about his infamous double-pump bottom turn, music, and releasing himself from the confines of competition after winning back-to-back world titles.

The magnetic freesurfer on manifestation, picking reef out of his teeth, hanging with Tom Curren, surfing IQ and the tour education, music, transitioning from landing airs at his home break to surfing big waves, and growing up as part of the Ho surfing dynasty.  For Mason Ho, surfing has been a source of happiness since before he can remember. Son of professional surfer Michael Ho, brother to Coco, and nephew of World Champion Derek Ho, Mason has made a name for himself through his playful style, big personality, and seeing waves where others don't. Ho sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the role music plays in his surfing, the virtue of patience, and striking the balance between fun, intention, and drive in order to be successful.

Soundbites from the most interesting people in surfing—including Kelly Slater, Nathan Fletcher, Mason Ho, and Tom Curren—as host Jamie Brisick previews his eight guests ahead of the launch of Season 02 of Soundings, presented by The Surfer's Journal.

Former Championship Tour surfer, 1995 G-Land finalist, and Laguna Beach local Jeff Booth joins the pod to talk about G-Land and his career on tour. He dives into all things G-Land, breaks down the different distinct sections of the long left break, describes what it was like to stay in the camps there, and looks back at surfing in the 1995 Final against Kelly Slater. He shares stories from the 1980s-90s ASP, including the state of the Championship Tour in that era, the creation of the Dream Tour, his biggest rivals, his event win at Reunion Island, and what he's been up to since leaving the tour. He shares his origin story, from growing up in Laguna Beach and entering his first competition in 1977 to the importance of “osmosis” and improving your surfing by being exposed to other good surfers. Jeff also talks about his latest project Distant Local, Tom Curren's dominance, achieving with humility, and Gabriel Medina, John John Florence, Carissa Moore, and his picks for the Quiksilver/ROXY Pro G-Land. Learn more about Jeff here. Check out Distant Local here and here.  Watch the Quiksilver/ROXY Pro G-Land live May 28 to June 6 on worldsurfleague.com. Join the conversation by following The Lineup with Dave Prodan on Instagram and subscribing to our Youtube channel.  Stay up to date with all things WSL. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

#149 Fotógrafo de mão-cheia, designer, empresário, diretor e produtor do documentário sobre a relação do Tom Curren com seu sensei, Kito. Nilton Baptista é o nosso convidado no episódio 149. Bruno Bocayuva, João Valente e Júlio Adler recebem o velho amigo para tentar desvendar o enigma mais longevo do universo surfeiro. My Wave do Soundgarden dá o pontapé inicial para recordar a data da ida precoce do Christopher John Boyle, conhecido como Chris Cornell, falecido em 2017. Straight to Hell foi escolhida para terminar e celebrar os 40 anos de lançamento do clássico do The Clash, Combat Rock. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/boia/message

Today we chat with Shane Herring coming to us all the way from Australia.  Shane grew up surfing Dee Why and trained hard for 3 years before going on the ASP tour.   Shane tells us how his first event on the tour was when he traveled to Santa Cruz for the Cold Water Classic. At the airport, he met up with the Brazilian surfers and made their way to the event.  By 1992, he found himself leading the ratings for half the year but ended the season in 4th place.  He tells us about a board he helped invent with Greg Weber just to beat Kelly Slater. Shane tells us how much he loves surfing the European leg of the tour and how good it gets. In 1994 Shane retired from pro surfing.  Did Shane really get punched out by Mr.  Johnny during the heat in Hawaii because he was beating a group of local Hawaiians in the heat?  Find out! @herring13surf@shaneherring17Buy me a Coffee!Patreonhttps://quiverbuilder.com/thequivercast/If you like the QuiverCast here are some ways to help us keep going!I always like Coffee!Buy me a Coffee!Become a Patreon for as little as a Buck a Month!PatreonFind Us:Website: https://quiverbuilder.com/thequivercast/Instagram: @quiver_castFacebook: The QuiverCastTwitter: @The_QuiverCastSound Editing by: The Steele CollectiveSupport the show

In 1997, Filmmaker Sonny Miller, creative Genius Derek Hynd and Rip Curl released "Searching for Tom Curren", a greatest hits of Tom Curren during his years on The Search campaign surfing perfect waves. It is perhaps one of the greatest studies of one the most beautiful surfing styles. The film was never released on DVD or digital streaming. It was lost to VHS tapes on shelves the world over and went on to live in surfing folk lore for decades. The filmmaker Sonny Miller was perhaps one of the most beloved and skilled in the business. Unfortunately, Sonny had passed away in 2014 before he could remaster "Searching for Tom Curren" and the rest of The Search films. Derek Hoffmann worked on The Search films with Sonny as a cameraman and became one of the great cinematographers in the business. After Sonny's passing, his father had entrusted Derek to help protect Sonny's archive and legacy. It's now 25 years since the release of "Searching for Tom Curren" and Derek has remastered the film and is re-releasing it to the public and hosting screenings around the country. Derek is our guest and we dive into Sonny's Legacy, The Legend & Myth of Tom Curren, and life on The Search. This is an episode not to miss... The Swell Season Surf Radio Podcast is recorded by The NewsStand Studio at Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan and is part of the Swell Season Surf Radio NetworkMusic: Opening Song: Don't Let Our Youth Go to WasteBand: Galaxie 500 Album: TodayClosing Song: HaleyBand: War Called PeaceAlbum: Yuppie Ghetto

Tom Curren and Mason Ho join Dave Prodan live from Trestles to talk about the Rip Curl WSL Finals, what their first memories of Search trips are, Mason's love of competitive surfing and free surfing, and Tom's thoughts on the progression of surfing over the years. They answer questions from the Instagram community and Mason shares a special story about a favorite memory of surfing with Tom at Sunset. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Free Scrubber director, Swellian, magazine man, Vaughan Blakey (aka Deadly) joins the podcast today to discuss life lesson's learned from Tom Curren, his filmmaking ambitions, trying not to tarnish print's legacy, and how ATS allowed him to shirk the cuffs of editorial expectations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices