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Karen E. Fisher shares stories of Ramadan at Zaatari, the world's largest Syrian refugee camp located in Jordan. Helena Bottemiller Evich introduces the new administration's appointments charged to “Make America Healthy Again.” Dr. Christopher Gardener drops some wisdom about seed oil. Caroline Eden reflects on her travels through Central Asia and Eastern Europe and considers how the kitchen is a unique space to tell human stories.
In the land Down Under one island in Western Australia is in the midst of a bold project to return it to a pre-European state. The Dirk Hartog Island National Park: Return to 1616 initiative has seen sheep farming (the mainstay for the single resident family for over 100 years) be replaced by eco-tourism. All cattle has been removed, invasive species have been culled and slowly, the vegetation and biodiversity is bouncing back. Given that the Wardle family used to earn around AUS$2.5million from their merino wool enterprise adventurer Phoebe Smith decided to pay them a visit to see how the less lucrative tourism industry was being embraced by them and undertake their inspiring hiking trail - Walking with Whales. Come wander with her...Also coming up:An interview with cookbook and travel author Caroline EdenTravel Hack: Survive a long haul flight in economy classTop 10 European Islands to visitMeet Mariko Wallen a sustainable seaweed farmer in BelizeDiscover the value of a good pair of multi-activity socksLearn all about our Wander Woman of the Month - Truganini - often thought (incorrectly) to be the last Aboriginal Tasmanian womanContact Wander Womanwww.Phoebe-Smith.com; @PhoebeRSmith
Caroline Eden is a writer and literary critic. She's also the author of many terrific food and travel books, including Samarkand, Black Sea, and Red Sands. She has been awarded both the Art of Eating Prize and an André Simon Award, and Red Sands was a book of the year for the Financial Times, the Sunday Times, and the New Yorker. In this episode, we talk about Caroline's terrific new book, a memoir titled Cold Kitchen. The book is a real journey through parts of Eastern Europe, the Baltic region, and beyond, and it dives into Caroline's travels through Russia, Bulgaria, Georgia, and many other locations that perhaps don't get the time they deserve. Caroline is a brilliant reporter and we had such a great time catching up with her.Do you enjoy This Is TASTE? Drop us a review on Apple, or star us on Spotify. We'd love to hear from you. See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.
Eric Kim has a signature style with his writing, which has appeared frequently in the New York Times, where he is a columnist for the magazine. Eric blends a truly lyrical style of prose with deep reporting chops and a knack for simple and highly focused recipe development—a rare triple threat! He's also the author of the best-selling cookbook Korean American. This is a return visit to the show for Eric, and we talk about his reporting process, how he unpacks big topics in food and culture in his columns, and some of his recent work, including dumplings, Chicago pizza, the origins of Philadelphia cream cheese, and many other memorable stories.Also on the show, it's the return of Three Things, where Aliza and Matt share what's interesting in the world of restaurants, books, television, food products, and much more. On this episode: Birria La Flor is doing Tijuana-style birria in Brooklyn, Caroline Eden's great memoir Cold Kitchen, Flour + Water dry pasta is terrific. Also, a Kingston, New York, scene check. Matt visits Pinkerton's Bakery, Fantzye Bagels, and Sorry, Charlie. Also, also: Severance is a good show, and not Westworld (we hope), and Matt tries Frost Buttercream.Do you enjoy This Is TASTE? Drop us a review on Apple, or star us on Spotify. We'd love to hear from you. MORE FROM ERIC KIM:It's Dumpling Week! [NYT]What Puts the ‘New York' in New York Cheesecake? [NYT]The Most Surprising Thing About Deep Dish Pizza? It's Not That Deep. [NYT]See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.
The Author Events Series presents Caroline Eden | Cold Kitchen: A Year of Culinary Travels REGISTER In Conversation with Jonathan Deutsch From the author of Red Sands, a New Yorker "Best Cookbook of the Year," a cozy, thoughtful memoir recalling food and travel in Eastern Europe and Central Asia from a basement Edinburgh kitchen, featuring a delicious recipe at the end of each chapter. A welcoming refuge with its tempting pantry, shelves of books, and inquisitive dog, Caroline Eden's basement Edinburgh kitchen offers her comfort away from the road. Join her as she cooks recipes from her travels, reflects on past adventures, and contemplates the kitchen's unique ability to tell human stories. This is a hauntingly honest, and at times heartbreaking, memoir with the smell, taste, and preparation of food at its heart. From late night baking as a route back to Ukraine to capturing the beauty of Uzbek porcelain, and from the troublesome nature of food and art in Poland to the magic of cloudberries, Cold Kitchen celebrates the importance of curiosity and of feeling at home in the world. Caroline Eden is a writer, book critic, and the award-winning author of Red Sands: Reportage and Recipes through Central Asia, from Hinterland to Heartland, a New Yorker Book of the Year; Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes-Through Darkness and Light; and Samarkand: Recipes and Stories from Central Asia & the Caucasus. She has travelled extensively to countries such as Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Ukraine, Russia, Turkey, and Bangladesh, documenting her experiences across multiple publications including Financial Times, the Guardian, and the Times Literary Supplement, as well as on BBC Radio 4's "From Our Own Correspondent." She lives in Edinburgh. Jonathan Deutsch, Ph.D., CHE, CRC is Professor and Vice Chair of Health Sciences, which encompasses Culinary, Food, Nutrition, Exercise and Health Sciences at Drexel University. He is the Founding Program Director of Drexel's Food Innovation and Entrepreneurship Programs. He is past President of the Upcycled Food Foundation and previously was the inaugural James Beard Foundation Impact Fellow, leading a national curriculum effort on food waste reduction for chefs and culinary educators. He was named a Food Waste Warrior by Foodtank. Before moving to Drexel, Deutsch built the culinary arts program at Kingsborough Community College, City University of New York (CUNY) and the Ph.D. concentration in food studies at the CUNY Graduate Center and School of Public Health. At Drexel, he directs the Drexel Food Lab, a culinary innovation and food product research and development lab focused on solving real world food system problems in the areas of sustainability, health promotion, and inclusive dining. He is the co-author or -editor of eight books. A classically trained chef, Deutsch worked in a variety of settings including product development, small luxury inns and restaurants. When not in the kitchen, he can be found behind his tuba. The 2024/25 Author Events Series is presented by Comcast. Because you love Author Events, please make a donation when you register for this event to ensure that this series continues to inspire Philadelphians. Books will be available for purchase at the library on event night! All tickets are non-refundable. (recorded 1/16/2025)
As the summer holidays kick off and people plan for journeys far and near, Sheila explores what food is provided on trains and at train stations across the country. A new report by the Office for Road and Rail suggests passengers pay around 10 per cent more for food inside stations, where catering leases often roll over automatically with limited opportunities for new food businesses to enter the market. Sheila finds out who the biggest players are in rail food and speaks to a range of people from station operators, food retailers and train companies to find out: is train food as bad as it once was? Not many people spend their lives in constant motion, but travel writer Caroline Eden is one of them. Sheila shares a train picnic with Caroline on the train line leading up to Scotland's walking country, and hears stories of food shared and meals eaten on remote routes during Caroline's travels through Central Asia and beyond. Pasties are one of Caroline's favourite journey foods, and she's not alone. From the tin miners of Cornwall's past to their omnipresence at stations today, pasties might just be one of the UK's longest-standing foods eaten on the move. Sheila also hears from travel correspondent Simon Calder, reporting from a station cafe on the Swiss-Italian border, with his perspective on how train catering has changed and his top tops for eating well on the move. How does food on trains compare in other countries and is there anything we can learn from the food cultures of others? Tokyo food tour host Yukari Sakamoto explains the tradition of Japan's Bento boxes, nutritious, freshly-cooked boxed meals bought at stations and eaten on trains across the country. Presented by Sheila Dillon and produced by Nina Pullman for BBC Audio in Bristol.
Caroline Eden returns to discuss with Ivan six things which should be better known. Caroline Eden is a writer and book critic contributing to the Financial Times, Guardian and the Times Literary Supplement. Her new book is Cold Kitchen: A Year of Culinary Journeys. Her earlier books include Samarkand, Black Sea and Red Sands, winner of the prestigious André Simon Award and a Book of the Year for the New Yorker. Ukrainian borsch Uzbek melons Russian pirozhki Polish pierogi Armenian lavash Turkish boza This podcast is powered by ZenCast.fm
This week, Gilly is with award winning travel writer, Caroline Eden. Her Cold Kitchen in Edinburgh is where we find her comfort cooking up the recipes she remembers from her travels. Her memories take us on the Trans Siberian Railway, through the dark back streets of a winter in Istanbul and the political chaos of a coup in Kyrgyzstan, and remind us of what travel can do for humanity. This is the recipe for food books which Gilly found so compelling when she first interviewed her about her second book, Black Sea for the delicious podcast, and which was the inspiration for Cooking the Books. It was about all of life through the prism of food. Head over to Gilly's Substack for a sound of Caroline's travels and a recipe from the her cold kitchen. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Kate Adie introduces dispatches from Ukraine, Russia, the USA and Georgia.Sarah Rainsford was in Ukraine when Vladimir Putin first launched his full-scale invasion two years ago, reporting on the defiance and rush to defend the country. On a recent trip back to the border city of Kharkiv, she found a much more sombre mood.Steve Rosenberg reflects on how the death of Russian opposition leader Alexei Navalny, along with two years of war with Ukraine, has affected the outlook of many ordinary Russians. Many wish for change, but are unclear on how that can be achieved.Over recent months, the stalled passage of a $60bn military aid package through the US Congress has heightened concerns that Washington's support for Ukraine is on the wane. Anthony Zurcher reflects on how the current US position has changed since his trip to Kyiv in the weeks before the Russian invasion began.Georgia has become a prime destination for Russians fleeing the war with Ukraine, especially those escaping conscription. The sudden arrival of tens of thousands of Russians has proved overwhelming at times, and given Georgia's own past conflict with Russia, not everyone is happy to see them, reports Vitaliy Shevchenko.Since Russia's invasion, more than 6 million Ukrainians have sought refuge overseas – but many people have stayed put, often by choice, determined to carry on living their lives as they have always done. Caroline Eden meets some market traders in Ukraine's southern port of Odessa, who are trying to ensure it's business as usual.Series Producer: Serena Tarling Production coordinator: Katie Morrison Editor: Richard Fenton-Smith
C'est le mois de septembre, et certes ça veut dire cartables remplis de colle Cléopâtre (ça existe encore même ?), bogues de marrons qui tombent au sol et rafraîchissement thermique (ça existe encore même ?), mais ça veut aussi dire libraires en folie parce qu'il y a trop de nouveaux livres. Donc plutôt que parler de nouveaux livres et faciliter la vie de ces libraires à qui ont veut apprendre leur métier, nous présentons ce mois-ci de livres moins nouveaux. Dans cet épisode, nous vous parlons de Marie-Ange Nardi, de Fabien "so6" Roussel, de Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel, de la route de la soie, des pays que Bertrand aimerait visiter mais où il peut pas à cause de son contrat de mariage, de gens qui, bien qu'étant d'origine vendéenne, ont le droit de vivre en Bretagne, de bière périmée, d'empire byzantin, de destruction du roman national (enfin !), de végétations, de vin rosé, de ketchup et de cultures qu'on devrait apprendre à connaître davantage histoire de mieux vivre sur cette boule bleue de plus en plus chaude. Liste des livres présentés dans l'épisode : Luchie, Food Baby, Shortbox, 2016 Nora Bouazzouni, Steaksisme - En finir avec le mythe de la végé et du viandard, Nouriturfu, 2021 Pascaline Lepeltier, Mille vignes - Penser le vin de demain, Hachette Vins, 2022 Pierre Singaravélou et Sylvain Venayre (dir.), L'épicerie du monde - La mondialisation par les produits alimentaires du XVIIIe siècle à nos jours, Fayard, 2022 Caroline Eden, Black Sea - Un voyage culinaire entre Orient et Occident, Hachette Cuisine, 2019 Et outre les épisodes du podcast passé en lien avec cet épisode (Bouffe et Edition, Bouffe et Bande dessinée, Bouffe, Marketing et Anthropologie... écoutez-les, ils sont très bien !), Bertrand vous recommande le podcast Le bon grain de l'ivresse, et en particulier les épisodes suivant l'entraînement de Pascaline Lepeltier au concours de meilleur·e sommelier·e du monde. Et après vous pourrez traîner sur Youtube pour regarder des vidéos de concours de sommellerie. La Grosse Bouffe est un podcast dédié au manger et au boire. Les nouveaux épisodes sortent tous les 21 du mois. Retrouvez La Grosse Bouffe sur Ausha, Apple Podcast et toutes les autres plateformes de téléchargement de podcasts. Vous pouvez également nous suivre et glisser en DM sur Twitter à @la_grossebouffe, et nous écrire à lagrossebouffepodcast@gmail.com.
Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle by the Irish travel writer Dervla Murphy was first published in 1965 and is the first of Dervla Murphy's twenty-six books. It's a journal she kept on the 3,500 mile, six-month journey she made by bicycle from her home in Lismore, Ireland to Delhi in India in 1963, Ireland, traversing Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan on her trusty bike, Ros. Joining us to discuss the book are Felicity Cloake, food writer and the award-winning author of the Guardian's long-running ‘How to Make the Perfect' series and Caroline Eden, author and journalist, whose latest book, Red Sands is a reimagining of traditional travel writing using food as the jumping-off point to explore Central Asia. This episode also features Andy reading from Craig Brown's new collected works, Haywire, while John has been enjoying In Search of One Last Song: Britain's disappearing birds and the people trying to save them by Patrick Galbraith. Timings: 07:25 - Haywire by Craig Brown 14:41 - One Last Song by Patrick Galbraith. 20:48 - Full Tilt by Dervla Murphy For more information visit https://www.backlisted.fm Please support us and unlock bonus material at https://www.patreon.com/backlisted
Lauren W. will be co-hosting this non-fiction quarter of Reading Envy Russia. We share books we have already read and freely recommend, and also chat about the piles and shelves of books we are considering. Let us know your recommendations and where you hope to start in the comments, or join the conversation in Goodreads.Download or listen via this link: Reading Envy 244: 2nd Quarter - Russian Non-Fiction Subscribe to the podcast via this link: FeedburnerOr subscribe via Apple Podcasts by clicking: SubscribeOr listen through TuneIn Or listen on Google Play Or listen via StitcherOr listen through Spotify Or listen through Google Podcasts Books we can recommend: Memories from Moscow to the Black Sea by Teffi Tolstoy, Rasputin, Others, and Me: The Best of Teffi by TeffiSecondhand Timeby Svetlana AlexievichThe Unwomanly Face of Warby Svetlana AlexievichLast Witnesses by Svetlana Alexievich, translated by Pevear & VolokhonskyZinky Boysby Svetlana AlexievichVoices of Chernobyl (also titled Chernobyl Prayer) by Svetlana Alexievich, translated by Keith GessenOther Russias by Victoria Lomasko, translated by Thomas CampbellThe Future is History by Masha Gessen Never Rememberby Masha Gessen, photography by Misha FriedmanWhere the Jews Aren't by Masha Gessen Pushkin's Children by Tatyana Tolstaya The Slynx by Tatyana TolstayaImperium by Ryszard Kapucinski, translated by Klara GlowczewskaA Very Dangerous Woman: The Lives, Loves and Lies of Russia's Most Seductive Spy by Deborah McDonald and Jeremy DronfieldPutin Country by Anne GarrelsLetters: Summer 1926 by Boris Pasternak, Marina Tsvetaeva, and Rainer Maria Rilke Sovietistan by Erika Fatland The Commissar Vanishes by David King Gulag by Anne Applebaum The Iron Curtain by Anne Applebaum The Magical Chorus by Solomon Volkov, translated by Antonina Bouis Shostaskovich and Stalin by Solomon Volkov The Tiger by John Vaillant Owls of the Eastern Ice by Jonathan Slaght How to Tame a Fox (and Build a Dog): Visionary Scientists and a Siberian Tale of Jump-Started Evolution by Lee Alan Dugatkin and Lyudmila Trut Please to the Table by Anya von Bremzen Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking by Anya von Bremzen Books we are considering: All Lara's Wars by Wojchiech Jagielski, translated by Antonia Lloyd-JonesGulag Archipelago by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, translated by Eric Ericson (there is a unabridged 1800+ pg, and an author approved abridged version, 400-some pages) Journey into the Whirlwind by Eugenia Ginzburg, translated by Paul Stevenson, Max Hayward Kolyma Tales by Varlam Shalamov, translated by John GladRiot Days by Maria AlyokhinaSpeak, Memory by Vladimir Nabokov The Life Written by Himself by Avvakum Petrov My Childhood by Maxim Gorky Teffi: A Life of Letters and Laughter by Edythe Haber Hope Against Hope by Nadezhda Mandelstam, tr. Max Hayward The Genius Under the Table: Growing Up Behind the Iron Curtain by Eugene Yelchin Putin's Russia: life in a failing democracy by Anna Politkovskaya ; translated by Arch Tait. A Russian diary: a journalist's final account of life, corruption, and death in Putin's Russia by Anna Politkovskaya Notes on Russian Literature by F.M. DostoevskyThe Sinner and the Saint: Dostoevsky and the Gentleman Murderer Who Inspired a Masterpiece by Kevin Birmingham The Most Dangerous Book: The Battle for James Joyce's Ulysses by Kevin BirminghamLess than One: Selected Essays by Joseph Brodsky Tolstoy Together by Yiyun Li The Border by Erika Fatland Symphony for the City of the Dead: Dmitri Shostakovich and the Siege of Leningrad by M.T. Anderson Red Plenty by Francis Spufford Lenin's Tomb: The Last Days of the Soviet Empire by David Remnick Bloodlands: Europe Between Hitler and Stalin by Timothy Snyder The Last Empire: Final Days of the Soviet Union by Serhii PlokhyThe Gates of Europe: A History of Ukraine by Serhii PlokhyChernobyl: The History of a Nuclear Catastrophe by Serhii PlokhyNuclear Folly: A History of the Cuban Missile Crisis by Serhii PlokhyMan with the Poison Gun: a Cold War Spy Story by Serhii PlokhyBabi Yar: A Document in the Form of a Novel by Anatoly Kuznetsov, tr. David Floyd Manual for Survival: An Environmental History of the Chernobyl Disaster by Kate Brown Plutopia: Nuclear Families, Atomic Cities, and the Great Soviet and American Plutonium Disasters by Kate BrownA Biography of No Place: From Ethnic Borderland to Soviet Heartland by Kate BrownOctober: The Story of the Russian Revolution by China Mieville Nothing Is True and Everything Is Possible: The Surreal Heart of the New Russia by Peter Pomerantsev Across the Ussuri Kray by Vladimir Arsenyev, translated by Slaght An Armenian Sketchbook by Vasily Grossman, translated by Robert and Elizabeth Chandler A Writer at War: Vasily Grossman with the Red Army by Vasily GrossmanThe Road by Vasily GrossmanStalking the Atomic City: Life Among the Decadent and Depraved of Chernobyl by Markiyan Kamysh Midnight in Siberia: A Train Journey into the Heart of Russia by David Greene Mamushka: Recipes from Ukraine & beyond by Olia HerculesRed Sands by Caroline EdenBlack Sea by Caroline Eden Tasting Georgia by Carla Capalbo Other mentions:PEN list of writers against PutinNew Yorker article about Gessen siblings Thanksgivukkah 2013 League of Kitchens - Uzbek lessonLeague of Kitchens - Russian lessonMasha Gessen on Ezra Klein podcast, March 2022Related episodes:Episode 067 - Rain and Readability with Ruth(iella) Episode 084 - A Worthy Tangent with Bryan Alexander Episode 138 - Shared Landscape with Lauren Weinhold Episode 237 - Reading Goals 2022Episode 243 - Russian Novel Speed Date Stalk us online:Reading Envy Readers on Goodreads (home of Reading Envy Russia)Lauren at GoodreadsLauren is @end.notes on InstagramJenny at GoodreadsJenny on TwitterJenny is @readingenvy on Instagram and Litsy All links to books are through Bookshop.org, where I am an affiliate. I wanted more money to go to the actual publishers and authors. You can see the full collection for Reading Envy Russia 2022 on Bookshop.org.
This week Gilly is with multi-award winning food writer and explorer, Eleanor Ford whose latest book The Nutmeg Trail takes us on an adventure to exotic islands and across trade routes to show how the intoxicating power of spice has changed the world. Eleanor is also the author of Fire Islands which won The Guild of Food Writers' Best International or Regional Cookbook 2020, the Edward Stanford Travel Writing Award for best Food or Drink Book 2020 and two Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2020. Her first book, Samarkand with Caroline Eden won the Guild of Food Writers Award for Food and Travel in 2017. In short, settle yourself in for some top quality listening.You can read the transcript by clicking here See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
In this new episode of the Salmon Pink Kitchen podcast, Irene and Margaux welcome chef and food writer Claire Thomson to chat all things writing cookbooks. Claire is the author of seven cookery books and her new book, Tomato, will be published in June by Quadrille Publishing. You can pre-order your copy now. With Claire, we took a journey through her cookery books, motherhood, feeding a family, working in kitchens, confidence, and using her Instagram account as a tool to spark ideas for recipes and to invite us all to find our blueprint in the kitchen. Claire's knowledge of food and her confidence in the kitchen are contagious, and we can't wait for you all to be energised by this episode! Here's a link to Claire's cookbooks; we are cooking our way through Home Cookery Year and we couldn't recommend it more.Springtime has come and the publication of our own Margaux Vialleron's novel, The Yellow Kitchen, is approaching and we cannot wait! TYK will be published by Simon & Schuster on 7th July 2022 and you can pre-order your copy from your favourite bookshops and retailers! Recommendations from today's episode:Claire's Instagram reel on the women food writers and chefs who have inspired her Writers and cookbooks we mentioned in this episode: Elizabeth DavidJane GrigsonMarcella Hazan Claudia RodenDiana Henry Nigella LawsonThe River Café cookbooksElizabeth Luard Rachel RoddyAnna Tasca Lanza cookbooks and cooking schoolWe attended the opening night of the British Library Food Season with the event dedicated to the #CookForUkraine campaign, hosting the incredible Olia Hercules and Alissa Timoshkina in conversation with Caroline Eden. It was hands down the best talk we have ever been to and we are so grateful for all the work Olia and Alissa are doing to raise funds, awareness, help with visas and also with stocking your kitchens with ingredients to help Ukrainian refugees to feel at home. You can buy Olia's, Alissa's and Caroline's cookbooks from the links below:Summer Kitchens by Olia Hercules Salt & Time by Alissa Timoshkina Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes - Through Darkness and Light by Caroline EdenCheck out the rest of the Food Season's events,
Today on Honey & Co: The Food Sessions we have Caroline Eden joining us! A journalist, food writer and cookbook author, Caroline's latest cookbook Red Sands, Reportage and Recipes through Central Asia, from Hinterland to Heartland, the follow-up to Black Sea, is a reimagining of traditional travel writing using food as the jumping-off point to explore Central Asia. Red Sands came out in 2020, and won all of the awards - The Financial Times, The Sunday Times and The New Yorker all selected it as their book of the year for 2020. We talked to Caroline about how her obsession with Central Asia began, the practicalities of travelling in the region, and the incredible people she met on the way, as well as demystifying plov, the environmental disaster of the Aral Sea, and the soviet-era sanatoriums of Tajikistan. It was an absolute joy to talk to Caroline! Follow Caroline on instagram: @edentravels Get a copy of Red Sands With thanks to: Producer: Miranda Hinkley Audio Engineers: Paul Brogden & John Scott Theme tune: Daniel Winshall Head of Comms: Louisa Cornford
Red Sands: Reportage and Recipes Through Central Asia, from Hinterland to HeartlandBy Caroline Eden Intro: Welcome to the number one cookbook podcast, Cookery by the Book with Suzy Chase. She's just a home cook in New York City sitting at her dining room table, talking to cookbook authors.Caroline Eden: Hi, my name is Caroline Eden. I'm the author of Black Sea and Red Sands, which is my new book, Red Sands: Reportage and Recipes Through Central Asia from Hinterland to Heartland.Suzy Chase: Last we chatted was in August, 2019 and you were on to celebrate my 150th episode with Black Sea. Welcome back and happy, happy new year. It has to be a happy new year!Caroline Eden: Thanks very much for having me back on Suzy and really nice to be here.Suzy Chase: So how does the landscape shape the food in Central Asia?Caroline Eden: That's a good question. Central Asia is a vast sways of the middle of Asia, the Heartland of Asia and I concentrate on four of the five countries of Central Asia in this book. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Put most simply there are two groups traditionally, historically within Central Asia, the nomads and the settled people of towns and cities, which have scattered along The Silk Road, the nomads were very dependent on what they had to hand out on The Steppe that was meat, horse meat, generally, and, sheep, mutton and the milk that their animals produced. So meat and milk, very, very basic diet and the people in the settled places more in Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and parts of Turkmenistan, which I don't feature in the book, had access to far greater produce, produce that was coming in from East to West West to East and access to orchards big irrigation systems leading in from the rivers. Very good nut and fruit forests and access to meat and some fish as well in the river so that's really how it's split. It's between the settled people in the towns and villages and the people who are out with livestock out in The Steppe.Suzy Chase: So that's what I was going to ask you, why isn't Turkmenistan in this book.Caroline Eden: I really struggled with whether to include Turkmenistan or not because it's a fascinating country on the Caspian Sea, a lot of great, interesting historical stories, which I could have pulled out from the country however, it's run by a dictator at the moment and reporting there freely is really problematic. So you can go and I could have gone, but outside of the city, the capital city Ashgabat, I would have been given a guide and would have been quite restricted to how I could travel and talk to people and that's not really how I like to travel when I'm researching these books I like to go slowly and speak to people freely and respectfully and sort of take my time and I felt if I went, it would be slightly controlled so I chose not to go at this time.Suzy Chase: So Red Sands consists of two parts, two main parts, spring and autumn. You start in the springtime shores of the Caspian Sea out West and the largest country in the region, oil rich Kazakhstan and you open the book and Aktau West Kazakhstan walking on the promenade of the Caspian Sea. You called it a city of edited geography and simulated environments. I'm curious to hear about that.Caroline Eden: Great. I'm glad you, I'm glad you brought this up because I was really fascinated with Aktau. It's a curious place. So the Ukrainians and the Russians built it basically in the 1950s, there wasn't anything there before. And the way that it's laid out today is there are not addresses as we would know them I mean quite different in New York to say London but we don't have blocks as you know, we have streets and the addresses are different, but that they just have numbers say the addresses read like telephone numbers so you'll have a block and then a flat number and that will be contained within a micro district, which is quite a sort of Soviet design, not that unusual, but in Aktau there's only really a few street names of the major thoroughfares, which run through and it's a really interesting place. I don't think it really gets any tourism and I'm not exaggerating when I say that. I mean, Kazakhstan is the ninth biggest country in the world and you can get off well, you're off the beaten track if you're out with the two main setters Nursultan and Almaty, but Aktau is really far out geographically it's very, very remote and apart from that sort of city and a few oil, this is sort of the oil part of Kazakhstan, oil cities, you're into The Desert Steppe very quickly and absolutely remote fantastically beautiful. So yeah, we start there, which it felt like a natural place to start.Suzy Chase: Talk a little bit about lunch in the Kyzylkum Desert, which means, I guess it means red sand?Caroline Eden: Yeah, that's true. I was traveling through the Kyzylkum Desert a few years back now and we stopped for lunch, I think it was about a six hour drive and this building sort of appeared in the scrubby desert and this isn't sort of like rolling sand dunes it's quite scrubby with bushes and things growing and that sort of landscape and this desert cafe appeared almost out of nowhere and the sort of saffron colored scrub, which is perfect timing. So we went in for lunch. I had a driver with me and they were making a very basic menu there you basically ate what you could smell, so you could smell the bread. They had a tandoor oven, so a beautiful, fresh chewy in the middle crisp underneath bread, shashlik you know, like skewered meat, lovely smell of that sort of smoke corkscrewing up from the grill, some little onion rings and tea. So I sat and I had this lunch and it just struck me how entirely suited it was to its remote surroundings, this lunch. And I'd never sort of eaten anyway, but so simple yet so harmoniously in tune with its really quite extreme environment and that kind of sums up Central Asia when you get out of the cities. The food is pretty simple and authentic in the sense that it's not really changed for a very long time and I just had a bit of a moment really, and I thought this is quite remarkable. I also quartered a watermelon, which I talk about in the book as well, and shared that round with some men that were sat at the raised tea bed you tend to sit on in Central Asia and yeah, I just, I had a moment in this cafe thinking this could be quite an interesting spot for a book to use the desert as the heart, and then sort of travel on way beyond the sand borders of the Kyzylkum Desert. It's not huge and it just sort of spans Kazakhstan a little bit and Uzbekistan quite a lot. So yeah, to use that as a focus and then to travel way beyond, obviously using food, again as a theme of recipes to express the journey.Suzy Chase: In Red Sands, you talk about how you have to stop and you have to digest and I was wondering, there's so much glorious, granular detail in this book did you have a pencil and paper out all the time? How did you record everything?Caroline Eden: Yeah, I mean, I have, obviously I have a notebook and a pen with me I also use a voice recorder sometimes and I take a lot of photographs. I work as a journalist part of the time and so I'm always taking notes. I do think it's actually best to take notes because a photograph can only do the visuals and a voice recording can only do the sounds whereas if you're writing, you can kind of take everything down in one go. So yeah, I mean, some of it comes later from the photographs and some of it comes at the time. It's lovely to sit in the train or sit in the cafe and just absorb what's happening around youSuzy Chase: I love that you wrote in the book "On these long journeys, the tempo of food and meal times becomes a mental rudder."Caroline Eden: Yeah, I think it does. I mean, these were big journeys, six months in 2019 in Central Asia moving around. So sometimes when I go to Central Asia, I've just been in earlier in 2020, I spent a few months just in Bishkek, in the Capital of Kyrgyzstan, but this was two long trips in the spring and autumn of six months moving around and it's exhausting. I'm not that young. I mean, I'm not that young anymore the beds are quite rough and the roads are really rough and sometimes you go a bit hungry and thirsty if you're crossing a mountain range or a desert, and it's dusty, it's quite rough and ready sometimes. In Dushanbe, for example, the capital of Tajikistan, when you go and try to arrange a car and a driver, if the economy is not so good, which is often the case, you get mobbed by drivers wanting your business, pulling you and tussling with you and shouting at you. I'm always very honest about how I report back from central Asia and it is wonderful, but it's also, it can be really hard work. It's never really scary, but it can be quite unnerving sometimes. So for me, food is good to think with, but it's also essential because it's a rest. So it helps you catch the feel of a place, but also, you know, you need to sometimes just sit down at a bar for a few hours and have a couple of beers and digest what's just happened on this journey you've been on for the last two days. I think that's really important, whatever age you are.Suzy Chase: Speaking of digesting, you were in Bishkek in October smack in the middle of the violence and you had a front row seat from your balcony. Can you talk a little bit about Bishkek before the revolution and then after the revolution?Caroline Eden: Yeah. Okay. So this isn't in the book. This year I was in Bishkek for a while with a Russian tutor my Russian is still not anywhere near where it should be and I've got a great Russian teacher in Bishkek and I was there doing some reporting as well and meeting up with some colleagues and stuff. There were elections scheduled. No one really predicted very much was going to happen. My husband's a news journalist, and I know some of the other news journalists in the region and no one was really talking this up to be a thing. And I was there in an apartment by myself on one of the main squares. Yeah it hugely kicked off. I mean, Bishkek has had two previous uprising/revolutions in the last 15 years, this is the third one and the previous two had been extremely violent with a lot of loss of life. And I had a whole night glued to the balcony apart from when the gunfire was really close and I thought the windows might get blown in watching the sky light up with explosions, listening to water cannons,grenades, constant firing. I didn't know what they were firing the police. I was terrified it was live rounds turns out it was not rubber bullets, but sort of pellets, which were very dangerous and a complete night of carnage. So...Suzy Chase: We all followed along on your Instagram with you?Caroline Eden: Yeah it took about 10 days for it to calm down and the elections now actually about to take place so we'll see what happens, but all the main parliamentary buildings were stormed, the president fled, I mean, it was complete chaos. It was really interesting. I did some news reporting for the BBC and stuff, but it was quite scary at times I was terrified people might just try and break into the apartment block to get away from whoever they were running from. I mean, these are good, solid Soviet built apartments you would have a job to do, you know, it was by myself in a city where I sort of vaguely knew two people. It was quite scary. Yeah.Suzy Chase: Oh man. So the landscape is incredible, but what you're really interested in are the man-made buildings. Talk a bit about how you named each essay.Caroline Eden: I mean every book needs a structure. I was saying this to somebody the other day and it's kind of, that sounds a bit cynical, but you've got to shape it somehow. So I was thinking, what do I think of when I think of Central Asia obviously I think of food and I think of the landscape, but actually more any of that, I do think of the man-made buildings because that's where the stories are I mean, obviously if you're a nature writer, you can talk about nature forever and how inspiring and beautiful and interesting it is but for me, I'm more interested in people and the human landscape, human stories. So for the book I wanted to structure it around a building. So Pavlodar for example, is called Konditorei. It was a cake shop I featured this fantastic cake shop and then the essay from that is Skyscraper and that's now Sultan in the North, which has the new capital because it's extremely modern and everybody always talks about the architecture there and the fantastic buildings. And then we go on to Karlag, which was the Kazakh sort of name for, for gulag like it was their particular gulag chain that Stalin set up. So that is a kind of like theme through the book, these little headings so you have a heading like Karlag and I have a subtitle Remembering Stalin's victims and then I actually have a date line a bit like you get in a newspaper. So it would be Karlag Remembering Stalin's victims, and then Akmal North Kazakhstan and the reason I did that was because I'm aware that I'm taking people to places which are quite unfamiliar still and I wanted that dateline there just to immediately place people, because there's only so much detail we could put on the map at the front of the book, the map is more primitive than I would have liked, but it just gets very, very tight, very messy if you start putting all these little place names in, and you can't really work out where one country starts, neither one ends because the essays can kind of stand alone as well you don't have to read the book. I mean, ideally read the book from start to finish, but you could read a single essay and know where you are in the world and what basically the theme is going to be.Suzy Chase: You've been writing about Central Asia for over a decade now, how has the cuisine changed?Caroline Eden: It's changed and it's not changed. So what I loved in Bishkek this time last year in 2020, when I was there for a few months, it was quite how brilliant it is that you can get a bowl of ramen then now and very good sushi. This was not possible five years ago. I dare to say, actually the sushi restaurant has been there six years, but yeah, like sort of five, six, 10 years ago, it would be shashlik and plov and samsa and quite limited menus in the cafes and restaurants and now most of the big cities in Central Asia have good coffee shops so you can get a decent latte and this all sounds very kind of like, you know, winsome and unnecessary, but again, if you've been traveling for a really long time as an outsider, you might fancy some sushi and there's nothing wrong with that. And of course, local people want this food of course, many people travel outside of Central Asia now more and more and many people go to Russia and Turkey and so the more the region opens up and the more young people, you know, travel and come back with ideas and stuff, it's sort of really changing but still in people's homes, especially outside the big cities, it's quite traditional.Suzy Chase: I was surprised to discover your favorite central Asian dish is laghman and not plov.Caroline Eden: It is my favorite dish and I loads of it in Bishkek last year. It's just really delicious. I love noodles and laghman is basically a noodle dish and it's Uyghur the Turkey people living in Jinjiang in China. So it is a Central Asian dish because those people are Central Asian ethnically, and it's a sort of mild stewed meat and vegetables. Normally the noodles are hand pulled, it gives it a sort of thickness and a slightly sort of rustic feel. And it's just really delicious. It's pretty straightforward. Yeah a mild stew of meat and vegetables on top of the noodles often with celery, which I particularly like, and often with red bell peppers, some chives on the top maybe some sesame seeds, quite filling, but basically it's lamb and there's noodles and vegetables. It's really, really nice.Suzy Chase: Can you describe plov?Caroline Eden: I can. I mean I've talked about plov so much over the years and it's wonderful. The different variations that you have of it, unlike laghman it is quite varied. So plov, there are variations of plov. Sometimes you'll have it with quails eggs on the top of this rice dish, which is cooked in layers. Sometimes you might have it with barberries or quince if it's the season, but always plov is cooked with carrots and onions and rice cooked in layers with a lot of oil. And what makes a good plov normally is the cook who makes it, first of all, it's a slow dish. It's very calorific and then perhaps the setting where you're eating it. And more recently I discovered actually very good garlic makes a difference. So in Osh in Kyrgyzstan, which is a city, which is half Kyrgys is half Uzbek. There's a man called Imenjon, who I always stay with and his plob is my favorite plov and the reason I love Imenjon's plov is because he puts then to his plov whole peeled garlic cloves, which are scattered through the rice and then as you eat the plov you mash it through with the back of your fork and then along with the strong cumin seeds, which are very well toasted and very fresh carrots and onion and plump raisins with this rice, you eat this very filling, slightly oily, delicious really Moorish plov. And the other beautiful thing about Imenjon's plov is the type of the rice, which is quite important for plov. If I'm making a plov here at home in the UK, I just use basmati rice there is no point trying to mess about the short grain rice, because it's too sticky and it grains don't separate properly, and it becomes a bit of a mess but if I'm cooking a plov in Central Asia or from eating somebody else's plov, they're probably going to use something like uzgen rice, which is the rice that Imenjon uses and it's short and fat and reddish and very flavorsome. So it's the quality like so many things, the quality of the local ingredients and Imenjon is particularly good because he cooked it for two decades at the base camp of Peak Lenin for the Soviet mountaineers so he's extremely experienced and a wonderful person and a wonderful cook. I.Suzy Chase: In part two in Autumn you move on to The Steppe Desert and mountain cradle until you end up in Tajikistan in the Fergana Valley shared by Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan can you describe the Autumn markets?Caroline Eden: Well, they're an absolute heaven to me. So I think where you're describing is Khujand. Khujand is Northern Tajikistan, and it's the Tajik section of the Fergana Valley and has got a very, very good market and there you can buy things like fabulous lemons, which are like your meyer lemons that you can buy in America, which are new to me because we cannot get them here in the UK and they've got very thin skin and they're very, very juice heavy, and they've got a slight Tangerine sort of color and taste, and they're absolutely delicious. And the markets are just terrific. The melons that they have, there will probably be winter melons in the autumn, which would be early then, but then I sort of hung up on rafters in the market through the winter and they sort of mass extra sucrose they get sweeter and sweeter and they're hanging inside the markets, which is visually amazing and all along the way, as you're driving into Khujand along the outskirts are cabbage patches and apricot trees and fields of wheat and rice, and sort of gushing channels of the Syr Darya River, which comes through Khujand and it's just very, very fertile the Fergana Valley, lots of tributaries of water feeding this region, very, very rich, a lot of cotton fields as well but wonderful Khujand it's very Uzbek as a city when the Soviet Union was crazy, there were lots of strange borders and pockets of different groups of people ended up outside of the sort of traditional ethnic groups. So Khujand while it's in Tajikistan is quite Uzbek, but yeah, really, really interesting. I enjoyed it again very much and not a place that gets any tourism really. People go there a bit because Alexander The Great ended his advance within this region there and there's a very good regional museum, which explains the military leaders life and the time that he was there and the journey there quite pretentiously because that was where he ended so I stand on the bank of the Syr Darya and say, I've now got enough because this is where Alexander The Great had also had enough and so we end in Khujand.Suzy Chase: You know, after reading about the Uzbek melons in your book, I realized I probably have never had a good melon.Caroline Eden: Well you can have them in California because a couple of Uzbek varieties are now growing in California, which is amazing to me because we certainly cannot get them here.Suzy Chase: But you're getting them there, right? Aren't the UzbekI melons coming to Britain?Caroline Eden: I've heard that they are but I haven't seen them with my own eyes yet. There's a rumor circulating, which I'm very keen on that we might be getting them. It would probably become even more difficult now we've left the European Union. Germany, which has a relatively big Russian population and Russians appreciate those melons. I've heard you can get them in markets in Berlin. You can get them in Istanbul, but yeah, I mean really want to eat them in, in Uzbekistan because they are unlike any other type of melon. There's a huge number of over a hundred different varieties but extremely sweet, extremely sweet and the fruit generally is just fabulous it's a reason alone to go really is.Suzy Chase: The recipes in Red sands are like maps in the book. What sort of criteria did you use to choose the recipes?Caroline Eden: That's a good question. So I tend to choose recipes or dishes where they have a story attached to them that will reveal to us something new. So while I couldn't do a book on Central Asia with a food focus without including plav and laghman, I would rather include something else that would tell us something new about the region. So a couple of my recipes in the book are kind of fantastical. So there's a recipe for Anna Akhmatova, the Russian poet, because she spent time in Tashkent and that allows me to then talk about sort of Tashkent being a city of bread and a sort of refuge for people during difficult periods of Russian history and another recipe, for example for zapekanka, sort of a breakfast cake by a woman called Anna who's whose guest house that I stayed at and a Caspian anchor cocktail, that's sort of inspired by sea buckthorn which is a common ingredient so they should tell a story in order to be included and reveal to us something new because while Central Asia is still relatively under explored for its culinary delights, I wouldn't say it wasn't completely fresh territory at all. There are quite a lot of books in Russian on Central Asian food and all the books have been written. So yeah, I think you have to push the boundaries a bit and do something different otherwise you're just repeating.Suzy Chase: So what I love about your writing is you take us along your adventures here and there, and you sprinkle in some old stories or writings that pertain to your experience. Um, like in Pavlodar for example, you wrote the British copper miner John Wardell had to cross the river and the voyage took him seven hours. Like for me as the reader that makes me want to delve deeper into what you're writing about.Caroline Eden: Great. Well that certainly that idea. Um, yeah, John Wardell was an incredible character. He travels to the region, I think, was it in 1916 roundabout? And he went to mine copper for the czar he was an Englishman and yeah, he traveled... makes my journey look very easy. He was very, very interested in what he found there and wrote very beautifully about the seasons and the natural world. I like to bring in one or two travelers from the past to try and show what travel was like then and what it's like now and how some of it's actually stayed the same. So yeah John Wardell, I think he crossed with all of his belongings in the early summer, that river, the Irtysh and why, and I'm the ice floes are just attaching and it just sort of shows you a different scene. Um, I think when he crosses it, he's focused on it being 10 miles wide or something like that, which it was nowhere near that way when we were there. Yeah. So the river changes and yeah, John Wardell is very interesting. He's book is beautiful. I recommend it.Suzy Chase: I’m going to have to read that, you know, from Black Sea, I read Sitwell's Roumanian Journey because you brought it up in Black Sea.Caroline Eden: I remember you said you read that, which is fantastic. It's gotten forgotten. It's a real shame. So many books are published every year and some of these old travel books just sort of fall off the map and nice to bring them back.Suzy Chase: Now to my segment called Last Night's Dinner where I ask you what you had last night for dinner.Caroline Eden: Oh goodness. So that's quite easy for me actually, because I've been cooking a lot, like everybody during lockdown from my cookbooks, my cookbook collection, which is actually very modest from Roopa Gulati's Indian Vegetarian I absolutely love it and I cooked last night, her Rajasthani Onions, which are sort of onions cooked in cream, cause I happened to have some cream leftover in the fridge and they were really, really, really nice and I made that with a kedgeree with some mackerel cause I had a mackerel leftover in the fridge as well. So I had those two things together one was a website recipe and one was Roopa's, delicious creamy onions. Yeah. I'm a big, big fan of her cooking. I made her chapati's as well and I'm going to make her bhel puri later on this week. So yeah, I'm addicted to her book it's her new one.Suzy Chase: So where can we find you on the web and social media?Caroline Eden: I'm on Twitter and Instagram. I'm probably on Twitter a bit more, but the same handle for both @EdenTravels.Suzy Chase: All your books are so special. I cannot thank you enough, Caroline, for coming on Cookery by the Book Podcast.Caroline Eden: Suzy it's been a pleasure thank you for having me back.Outro: Subscribe over on CookerybytheBook.com and thanks for listening to the number one cookbook podcast, Cookery by the Book.
As Los Angeles heads into another lockdown, Good Food checks in with Celia Sack of Omnivore Books in San Francisco for ideas on which cookbooks to give your friends/family (or yourself). Two of Sack’s picks are “Flavor” by Yotam Ottolenghi and Ixta Belfrage and “Red Sands” by Caroline Eden. Evan Kleiman talks recipes and wanderlust with them. Ken Concepcion of Now Serving and Simon Davies of Somekind Press share their collaboration on the Take Away Los Angeles series of books benefitting LA restaurants. Ari Kolander describes the constant pivoting in order to keep the doors open at his year-old seafood restaurant, Found Oyster, in East Hollywood. Finally, market correspondent Gillian Ferguson heads down to the Torrance Farmers’ Market to talk Japanese shave ice and macadamia nuts.
Matt Bentman, Alan Alder and Sue Bailey get November tips from the foraging chef, including using fig leaves for pannacottas and custards. Also, the 50 year-old family cheese business that […]
A brutal assault on Kabul University, the biggest and oldest in the country, left at least 35 dead and 50 wounded. The attack was claimed by the Islamic State group, but the Afghan government and the Taliban are blaming each other for it, when the two sides are meant to be focusing on peace talks. Lyse Doucet speaks to one University lecturer about the students he lost. There was an attack in Austria too, in Vienna, which killed four people and injured more than 20 others, in a neighbourhood that houses Vienna's main synagogue, but is known as the Bermuda Triangle, a key nightlife area full of bars and restaurants. The shooting was the deadliest attack in Vienna for decades. Bethany Bell reports on an evening that shook a city. Eighteen Sicilian fishermen are being detained in prison in the Libyan city of Benghazi, accused of fishing in Libyan waters. This part of the Mediterranean is rich in the lucrative red prawn, and so these arrests are not uncommon. Usually the men are released after negotiations. But this time that's proving difficult, says Linda Pressly. In Kyrgyzstan, traditional turbans for women called elecheks are made with many metres of the finest white cotton. Nowadays women mostly wear headscarves, and the elecheks are kept as heirlooms. But during these pandemic times one textile collector has cut an elechek up to make masks for local hospitals, as Caroline Eden reports. Swallows that spend the summer in Britain have left for their winter destination of South Africa. The flight takes them several weeks, through France, Spain and Morocco, then across the Sahara, and the tropical rainforests. They eat flying insects. Stephen Moss went to look for them in a reed-bed on a lake near Durban. Presenter: Kate Adie Producer: Arlene Gregorius
Caroline Eden discusses with Ivan six things which she thinks should be better known. Caroline Eden is a writer and critic contributing to the Guardian, Financial Times and the Times Literary Supplement. In 2020, she was awarded the prestigious Art of Eating Prize. She is the author of two food and travel books, Samarkand (2016) and Black Sea (2018). Her new book, Red Sands, looking at the food and culture of Central Asia, will be out in November 2020. You can follow her @edentravels on Twitter and Instagram. Kazakhstan as a destination https://www.journalofnomads.com/places-to-visit-in-kazakhstan/ Cornucopia magazine http://www.cornucopia.net Sea buckthorn as an ingredient http://www.missfoodwise.com/2018/10/sea-buckthorn-berries-various-ways-kitchen.html/ Sanmao https://www.bloomsbury.com/au/stories-of-the-sahara-9781408881880/ Roz Chast https://www.newyorker.com/contributors/roz-chast Gaye Su Akyol https://www.theguardian.com/music/2018/nov/02/gaye-su-akyol-istikrarli-hayal-hakikattir-review-turkish-star-deserves-big-things This podcast is powered by ZenCast.fm
PostFace, émission littéraire présentée par Caroline Gutmann qui reçoit Gilles Pudlowski pour son Guide Gastronomique « Guide Gourmand Pudlo Paris 2020 » paru aux éditions Michel Lafontet Barbara Lambert pour ses coups de cœur du mois. À propos du livre : "Guide Gourmand Pudlo Paris 2020" paru aux éditions Michel Lafont Voilà plus de 30 ans que Gilles Pudlowski part à la conquête de tout ce qui se fait de nouveau en gastronomie. Précurseur, il sait dénicher les talents de demain et nombreux sont ceux qui ont été primés dans son Guide avant de l'être ailleurs. Plus de 2 300 adresses dont 1 500 restaurants, " institutions " comme " lieux branchés ", pour toutes les bourses. Mis à jour tous les ans, Le Pudlo raconte les quartiers, les ambiances, et se révèle intègre et critique à l'égard des établissements. Coups de coeur pour l'excellence, assiettes cassées pour les tables décevantes, éclectisme dans les sélections : il permet de choisir, selon son humeur, la haute gastronomie, les plats du terroir, les rapports qualité-prix avantageux ou les cuisines étrangères, et met par ailleurs l'accent sur les brasseries gourmandes. Il recense également les meilleurs artisans et commerçants du goût – bouchers, fromagers, boulangers, etc – ainsi que les rendez-vous gourmands : bars à vins ou à bières, cafés, salons de thé... Un guide évocateur, facile à consulter, joliment rédigé : de quoi se repérer sans erreur dans la capitale de la bonne chère. Gilles Pudlowski, né le 15 novembre 1950 à Metz en Moselle, est un journaliste, essayiste, critique littéraire et critique gastronomique français. Fondateur des guides Pudlo, il est aussi chroniqueur à Saveurs et à Cuisine et Vins de France ainsi que rédacteur en chef du blog Les Pieds dans le Plat. À propos du livre :"Les Bonnes tables" paru aux éditions Michel Lafont Temple de la gastronomie française, le Marché International de Rungis propose, sur ses 234 hectares, une grande diversité de produits, frais et sains, grâce à ses cinq secteurs emblématiques que sont les fruits et légumes, les produits carnés, les produits de la mer et d'eau douce, les produits laitiers et de gastronomie, l'horticulture et la décoration. Ce marché, dédié aux professionnels des métiers de bouche, compte parmi ses clients les meilleurs restaurants parisiens dont Gilles Pudlowski, critique gastronomique, et Stéphane Layani, Président du Marché International de Rungis, vous proposent une sélection dans ce livre... GILLES PUDLOWSKI Journaliste et critique gastronomique réputé, ami et confident des grands chefs, publie chaque année et depuis 30 ans, avec succès, Le Pudlo Paris aux Éditions Michel Lafon. À propos du livre : "La vraie recette" paru aux éditions de l'Épure « Vous croyez connaître les recettes ? Détrompez-vous. Et bon appétit ». Voilà le principe de la rubrique « La vraie recette » du magazine en ligne Slate.fr. Faut-il mettre de la moutarde dans la mayonnaise ? Qui a inventé le tout premier coulant au chocolat ? Peut-on parsemer un gratin dauphinois de fromage râpé ? Quelle est la préparation originelle des soeurs Tatin ? Pourquoi ne pas mettre des petits pois dans le guacamole, puisque c'est très bon ? Cette série d'articles décortique des recettes classiques : origines, usages, techniques, secrets de professionnels et débats enflammés… Évidemment, en cherchant la « vraie recette », on se rend compte que celle-ci est souvent très controversée… ou n'existe tout simplement pas ! Et c'est tant mieux. Mais cette quête gourmande permet de s'interroger sur de grands enjeux de la cuisine, comme la transmission, l'identité culturelle ou l'évolution des recettes. Cet ouvrage regroupe une vingtaine de « vraies recettes » dont certaines déjà publiées sur Slate.fr mais majoritairement des textes « inédits ». Lucie de la Héronnière est journaliste. Elle travaille pour la presse écrite, souvent sur des sujets liés à l'alimentation et à la gastronomie. Elle a également écrit des livres pour les enfants et des livres de recettes. À propos du livre : "Black Sea: Un voyage culinaire entre Orient & Occident - des histoires, des rencontres et près de 60 recettes " paru aux éditions Hachette Pratique Black Sea est le récit d'un voyage gastronomique délimité par Odessa en Ukraine et Trabzon, dans l'est de la Turquie : deux villes mythiques façonnées par leur position sur la mer Noire. Au centre, se trouve Istanbul et sa cuisine, peut-être la meilleure au monde, reliée à la mer Noire par le détroit du Bosphore. Friande de recettes savoureuses et d'histoires singulières, la journaliste Caroline Eden voyage à travers la Bessarabie, la Roumanie, la Bulgarie et la région de la mer Noire en Turquie pour explorer les cultures culinaires qui s'y côtoient. À Odessa, elle part à la découverte de la cuisine juive, puis elle rencontre la dernière pêcheuse de Bulgarie avant de s'émerveiller de ce que les Russes blancs ont laissé en héritage à Istanbul... Dans ce livre se mêlent des références historiques et culturelles à des récits de vie, tous reliés par la nourriture et complétés par les recettes qui leur sont associées : la cuisine est le fil conducteur de la découverte de cette région méconnue. Depuis les plats de la Bessarabie en Europe de l'Est jusqu'aux plats circassiens que l'on trouve à Istanbul, Caroline Eden dresse un portrait gustatif singulier des rives de la mer Noire. Méticuleusement documenté et riche de témoignages aussi inattendus que fascinants, Black Sea ne ressemble à aucun autre livre de cuisine. Grâce à ses superbes photographies de paysages et ses recettes succulentes, il ouvre une voie nouvelle dans le livre de voyage culinaire. Meilleur livre de voyage culinaire (prix Edward Stanford 2019) Meilleur livre de cuisine (Printemps 2019 - The New York Times) Caroline Eden est journaliste et auteure spécialiste de l'ancienne Union soviétique. Ses écrits ont paru dans les pages voyage, cuisine et arts du Guardian, du Daily Telegraph et du Financial Times. Elle tient également une chronique hebdomadaire sur le voyage dans le journal Metro de Londres. Elle vit à Édimbourg, en Écosse. À propos du livre : "Le Nuancier des Alcools " paru aux éditions Flammarion « Un super outil pédagogique. » --Whisky Magazine « Un outil de travail pour les professionnels et de connaissance pour les amateurs qui y trouveront de nombreuses réponses à leurs questions. » --L'Obs Présentation de l'éditeur L'ouvrage se présente de manière très originale comme un nuancier de couleur glissé dans un coffret luxueux. 100 fiches complètes pour tout savoir sur les différents alcools.
durée : 00:03:57 - La Cerise sur le gâteau - par : Catherine Roig - J’ai eu un vrai coup de cœur pour le livre Black Sea, de Caroline Eden, qui m’a fait découvrir la région de la Mer Noire.
Black SeaDispatches and Recipes Through Darkness and LightBy Caroline Eden Intro: Welcome to the Cookery by the Book podcast with Suzy Chase, she's just a home cook in New York City, sitting at her dining room table, talking to cookbook authors.Caroline Eden: I'm Caroline Eden and my new book is called Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes - Through Darkness and Light.Suzy Chase: For my 150th podcast episode I wanted to celebrate this very special, very unique book. You call this a transporting, multisensory piece of travel writing, one you can read, see and eat. Your recipes and stories are drawn not only from those living on its shores today, but the ancient legends, historical events and literary works which are embedded in its unique existence. Black Sea is a tale of a journey between three great cities tied together by the sea; what are these key cities and why did you choose to write about them?Caroline Eden: Thank you, Suzy, that was a very nice introduction, I think it sums up the book perfectly. So the three cities are Odessa, Istanbul, not on but satisfyingly close to the Black Sea, and Trabzon, and I wanted to focus on three cities, I love cities, I think you can tell so many stories through cities. And Odessa is relatively new, by European standards, 1794, Trabzon is truly ancient, seventh/eighth century BC, and Istanbul, to me the world's greatest kitchen, satisfyingly in the middle of both geographically. And my idea was to travel to those three and to stop at places in between that had particularly interesting food stories and different people I could meet and talk to and find out about the trade routes and the history surrounding the Black Sea, which really, when you start to dig into it, is an extremely multilayered sea, very ancient, looks like a lake on a map rather than a sea, when we think of the word sea.Caroline Eden: And yeah, that was the idea behind the book.Suzy Chase: Talk about the frontier theme that permeates this book.Caroline Eden: There is a frontier feeling to many of the places that I stop at along the way, a sense that the places obviously belong to the countries that they're within, but they're also set apart and joined to one another through the sea as well. And this sort of group portrait started to form as I started to travel and research, so Odessa is a very good example of this. It's Southern Ukraine, it's a port city, it was Catherine the Great's port city, and it's very Ukrainian but it's also quite Russian, you hear Russian spoken on the streets and people there would probably say they were Odessan before they'd say they were a Ukrainian, and I think it's to do with being a city which is right on the sea, which looks out to sea, that has its back, in a way, to the land behind it. And a lot of the Turkish cities that I stopped at had a similar feel, very separate, quite nationalistic often, a little bit ignored, some of these cities, so very very interesting places, and quite off the tourism map as well.Suzy Chase: So the first city you focus on in the book is Odessa; Isaac Babel, a famous chronicler of Odessa, loved scrambled eggs with tomatoes and aubergine, caviar on ice, tell me about Odessa's literary son.Caroline Eden: Oh, Isaac Babel is one of my favorite writers and it was just by chance that a wonderful translator that I know, Boris Dralyuk, was translating Odessa Stories just as I was researching the book and he very kindly donates a great poem included in the book about Odessa. But the great son, Babel, he wasn't a food writer, obviously, he was a great literary writer, but he writes amazingly well about food. So men are thwacked over the head with colanders and that sort of thing, and he describes these fantastic feasts in courtyards. And food, it's a very good tool for talking about many different things and Babel really uses this in his stories. Also, I mean, Odessa was a great port city, so lots of wheeling and dealing, and a city with underground catacombs, so let's of exploration and Babel writes beautifully about those things, and he is remembered there so well today. The rumor goes that they raised the money within the city for a statue of Babel I think two or three times quicker than they raised one for Pushkin. I mean Pushkin is absolutely revered in Odessa, he has his own museum, but people love Babel.Caroline Eden: I went to a literary flash mob there a few years ago to do a story for the Guardian newspaper and there were hundreds of people on the streets of Odessa reading Isaac Babel, which, to me, was just remarkable, it's a very literary city.Suzy Chase: It's also a city built on grain and trade, and you noticed that food was the perfect lens for understanding the city's history, but you also noticed a sort of melancholy and silence that enveloped the city, talk a little bit about that.Caroline Eden: Yeah, I mean geopolitically Ukraine is a very interesting, tricky country, but Odessa has a silence where you'd expect for it ... you know, it's a port city, you'd expect it to be quite clanging and noisy but it isn't, it's got this lovely briny, quiet, sea-whipped air and in the morning it is completely silent, you get these trams trundling around these great old pastel, peeling buildings which look like they're something straight out of a Russian novel, and it can very romantic to an outsider to experience this. It's a very, very unique city, Odessa, and yeah, a kind of melancholy.Caroline Eden: I write in the book about how sometimes you can be sat in a café, everyone's having a nice time, and all of a sudden something seems to come in on the breeze and there's a sort of melancholic atmosphere, and that's the Black Sea, it does do this, it's a strange phenomenon.Suzy Chase: Why do you think Odessa was a literary haven?Caroline Eden: Odessa was a literary haven I think because it was very far South compared to the cities [inaudible 00:06:22], Moscow and St Petersburg, and a lot of writers, Pushkin, Gogol, came down, sometimes through self-exile or exile, other times to take the air and to live in kinder climates, maybe their health wasn't so good. And like attracts like, it just became a kind of magnet for literary groups. But also Mark Twain came in, it wasn't just Russian writers, he came in on a steamboat and writes about ice cream, sort of says, "When you're in the hot climates in the East, if there's ice cream you have to eat it because you're not going to find it everywhere," and that was in Odessa, which already had a fantastic café culture when he was there.Suzy Chase: Yeah, it was interesting that Twain thought that it looked like an American city.Caroline Eden: I can't see that but I haven't traveled extensively in America, Chicago, New York, San Francisco. Yeah, I'm not quite sure what he means by that, but he does talk about that, you're right, he said that it's got ... the street layouts are familiar to him, and back then, who knows? That was likely the case.Suzy Chase: In Isaac Babel's short story, Di Grasso, he wrote, "Macaroni boiled in vats of foamy water in front of the shops, sending up steam that melted high in the heavens," what was the Italian connection to Odessa?Caroline Eden: One of the things I wasn't expecting when I got to Odessa was the Italian connection, and I had a guide for the day and she just started speaking about it, saying how the early street signs were not only in Russian but they were in Italian as well, and I thought that was amazing. And the more research I did I found out the more Italian connections, so the city's first restaurateurs were Italian, Italian was taught in schools and it was the lingua franca of the harbor, as it was in Constantinople across the Black Sea.Caroline Eden: So, to tell that story, and you said earlier about it being a multisensory book, I include a recipe for Italian street polpette, beef and pork with fennel in the sauce, very simple recipe but the kind of thing I imagine would have been served. It's said that the first dish that was served in a restaurant in Odessa was Italian meatballs. Alexander Pushkin, when he was there in Odessa in the 1820s, he says he heard Italian spoken on the street and he stayed on Italian Street in a hotel when he was there.Caroline Eden: The other amazing Italian connection was when I was researching the newspapers here in the UK, and I'm sure in the States as well, started to report these shipwrecks that were being discovered under the Black Sea, 2000 meters below. So they found, I think it was 40 to 60, different ships, [inaudible 00:08:56] marine archeologists, revealing 2500 years of seafaring history; Genoese, Venetian, Cossack assault vessels, a Roman shipwreck. One of them apparently had clay jars with diced up fish steaks inside, and this really shows the history of trade around the Black Sea because the fishing ports were all Italian originally, the first traders were Italian. And the Black Sea is a dead sea, so the top layer has oxygen, where the fish are, and about 90% of it doesn't have oxygen, and this is what preserved those shipwrecks so perfectly.Caroline Eden: So, amazing Italian connections, and things I never expected to find when I first set out on the journey, back in 2013 I did my initial Black Sea journey.Suzy Chase: I was so interested to read about the oxygen deprived waters of the Black Sea, so it's almost like there are stories on the land and then there are stories way down in the sea.Caroline Eden: That was what was so interesting, the stories were not just, as you say, on land, they started, as I started to research, to be under the sea as well, which I found almost more interesting in a way because 2500 year old ships being discovered is just amazing, and just shows how long trade and migration has been happening around that part of Europe.Suzy Chase: In the Romania section you have Czar Nicholas II imperial gala menu at Constanta. This guy squandered the nation's wealth on celebrations and 55 people manned his kitchen. He had three levels of cuisine which kind of cracked me up; simple, holiday, and parade. Can you talk a little bit about him?Caroline Eden: Well, royal families were doing their trips around the Black Sea and when he came into Constanta, the Czar came to Constanta, he came there to feast and to meet and to talk about business and military campaigns and that sort of thing, but they went on tour and they had this feast and they toured some cathedrals. And it's just an interesting slice of European history and shows how people would sail across the sea to meet one another and to feast. It was quite amazing to get that menu and an archivist in Bucharest found it for me. I just thought it was another side, but I became quite obsessed with this building called Casino in Constanta, which I say is the most amazing dilapidated building in the world, potentially, and it's sort of left in ruins. And we were very lucky to get permission to go in and take a couple of photos for the book and it's just amazing, it's right on the Black Sea, kind of on a bluff, the waves slapping it, and if it was anywhere else it would probably have been turned into a fabulous hotel or restaurant, but unfortunately the funding has never come to fruition in Constanta to save this great building where the Czar arrived.Suzy Chase: That's my favorite photo in the book, of the Casino.Caroline Eden: It's a great photo, I work with a great photographer, Theodore Kay, who's a friend of mine and lives in China, and he followed in my footsteps, taking pictures, and he's just brilliant, he's got this really cool journalistic style which I really like which I think fits the book and tells the story. I love the photography in the book, he's brilliant.Suzy Chase: Travel writer Sacheverell Sitwell took eight days to get to Romania from London on the train, he published Roumanian Journey, which I'm going to read next week when I go to the beach, and he wrote in it, "English literature is nearly silent where that country is concerned;" do you feel the same way?Caroline Eden: Certainly on the coast, Sitwell was a real character and I would also like to read more of his work, he comes from a family of true English eccentrics. Yeah, I mean Transylvania, a lot of Brits go to Transylvania and do the home-stay/trekking experience, and it is beautiful, I've been to Transylvania, but if you start to dig around the Black Sea coast of Romania I didn't meet another tourist when I was there in Constanta. A lot of Romanians were there on holiday because we were there in the summer, I was there with my husband, but no tourist. So if you want an unusual trip, including Constanta would be a good place to start, it's a very very curious place.Suzy Chase: Yeah, he wrote, "Romania is still unspoiled."Caroline Eden: Yeah, and I think it's probably true to say today to a certain extent. I might not be correct in this but as far as I understand it, the last existing true wildflower meadows are in Romania, they're very hard to find elsewhere.Suzy Chase: Talk to me about his father, who was apparently more eccentric than he was.Caroline Eden: I seem to recall that he published an entire book on forks.Suzy Chase: Yes.Caroline Eden: And he invented something called the Sitwell Egg, which was some bizarre he'd insist on having for dinner. But when I say he comes from a family of eccentrics, I think the father was even more eccentric, and Sitwell Junior was a very good writer. I haven't read his father's stuff, so I'm not sure.Suzy Chase: You write about the kashkaval cheese he finds in the round boxes of bark; can you describe this cheese?Caroline Eden: I talk about it in the book because he writes about it but it's a smoked cheese that's sort of smoked within bark, so I imagine it would be delicious and woody and smoky but I haven't yet tried it, I'm afraid, that must be my thing to do when I go back to Romania.Suzy Chase: Yeah, that should be first on your list.Caroline Eden: I think it should, it sounds delicious.Suzy Chase: Now onto Bulgaria, tell me about Elena in the tiny fishing village.Caroline Eden: Everyone always asks me about Elena and I love talking about her, and the story that she told was ... gosh, well it was very Black Sea, it sort of started off one way and ended in a kind of tragic tale. She was an amazing character, she claimed to be the last fisher woman in Bulgaria, and when I was talking to her she told me a documentary had been made about her and her life, so I have no reason to disbelieve this was the case. She was from a family of fishermen who all said, "You can't go out and fish, you'll never be able to pull out as much fish as the men," but of course she did and she proved them wrong and she was very good.Caroline Eden: And we were sort of sat at this little briny, salty little café where she was just serving beer, working there on a spare day or whatever, and sat with us and had a beer and said that she has this great connection with the sea, like lots of fishermen will talk this way and get very animated and start pulling imaginary rope through their hands when they're talking to you and describing the storms. The Black Sea is infamous for being a dangerous sea because it's got very few safe harbors. So we were talking about this and then I could tell, I talk about this in the book, that the conversation starts to skirt off course and I could see she was becoming more and more melancholic, and very tragically told me that she had lost a daughter just a few weeks ago and now goes out on the sea with a stove and some bread and stays out there all night, by herself, which is incredibly dangerous, but she said that that's her way of trying to compute and deal with the pain and the grieving process in the solitude of the sea.Caroline Eden: So I left feeling completely flattened by the conversation, she gave me a big hug at the end, and I wasn't prying, she just freely told me this, and yeah, it was very moving. But again, just sort of sums up how powerful the sea is to many people that live around it; it's work, it's emotion, it's history, it's identity. Migration is a major theme in the book, it has become a modern day migration route as well but I talk about it more from a historical point of view to make the point that it's not new that people are migrating around Europe's frontier areas.Suzy Chase: What do the fishermen do in the winter when the Black Sea is frozen over?Caroline Eden: I'm not sure, to be honest, it's not a question I asked any of the fishermen I met. I'm not sure if it freezes, I imagine parts of it would, certainly up towards Russia, on the Turkish coast I wouldn't have thought so, but I'm not sure, that's a tricky question.Suzy Chase: So what's the connection between salt and Bulgaria?Caroline Eden: Bulgaria's got a fascinating history with salt, I mean there are a few things to talk about with salt. They're very very keen on colored salts, so when I first got to Bulgaria, to a city called Varna, which is a really interesting small city right on the Black Sea coast, you often find colored flavored salts on the restaurant tables, flavored with paprika and cayenne pepper and fennel and all these different sorts of spices and herbs and things, which I really liked and I hadn't really seen that anywhere else. That was interesting, but what was more interesting is that a village not far away from Varnum was once the wealthiest town/city in Europe because of salt. So they were mining salt there and, because of the salt, became very very rich and started to create fantastic jewelry, which they had in the museum in Varna, very very very old worked gold, some say the oldest worked gold in the world, and that's all due to salt.Caroline Eden: I write in the book, "Man can certainly live without gold but he can't live without salt; without salt our muscles seize up and we can't live," so salt is such a crucial thing to people. And there's a lovely little museum, somewhere called Pomorie, where they talk about the history of salt, and people go there and they bathe in the mudflats around this museum and you can buy packets of Bulgarian salt to bathe in in your bath at home. So it sort of continues, this history of salt, but I think that the lady I spoke to in the museum said that now countries like Israel have overtaken the trade and they don't really produce it very much, or not enough for their own country, they import the salt.Suzy Chase: So, down to Istanbul, not on the Black Sea; you've been visiting Istanbul for many years and it's basically the center of this book. How has Istanbul retained its culture after all these years, and how is it tied to the Black Sea?Caroline Eden: I found Istanbul, a city I absolutely love and visit a few times a year every year, was a very Black Sea city. Somebody said this to me one night, and of course it's one of those things that once you start looking for it, you see it everywhere, so I'd get in a taxi and the taxi driver would be from, say, Rize, where for some reason a lot of taxi drivers in Istanbul happen to be from this Black Sea city where they produce the tea, up in Northeastern Turkey. I met restaurateurs and chefs who were running Black Sea cafes and restaurants. Hamam owners, I met some hamam owners who were from the Black Sea, and I also met, or went to a restaurant where Russians, White Russians, had traveled across the Black Sea and were now running these ... descendants of were running these amazing White Russian restaurants, and they came in the 1920s, fleeing the Bolsheviks.Caroline Eden: Amazing Black Sea history in Istanbul, there's a market called [inaudible 00:20:30] market where on a Sunday all the Black Sea traders travel all night to bring their Black Sea goods to sell at this market. So yeah, it's one of those things, once you start looking for it, it's everywhere.Suzy Chase: What are White Russians?Caroline Eden: So White Russians fled the Bolshevik powers, they were normally aristocratic or quite well to do Russians, and if they could leave when the Bolsheviks took power, they did. And a lot of them fled across the Black Sea and they came in. There were already Russian churches in Istanbul, so Russian churches existed, Orthodox churches, mainly for pilgrims who were heading for Jerusalem or Greece, and those churches were probably one of the first things that White Russians who would arrive into the docks of Istanbul would see, which must have been some sort of reassurance. And many of them stayed, so now there are two or three existing White Russian restaurants in Istanbul, one is called Rejens, which is the famous one, it's quite a fantastic place. The food is good, you eat things like chicken kiev and pelmeni and dumplings, they have an amazing vodka trolley full of different flavored vodkas, that trundles around the restaurant across the tiled floors, pushed by a man in a white tuxedo.Suzy Chase: That's funny.Caroline Eden: It's amazing, there's a permanent table set up for Ataturk, it's one of these incredible historical restaurants, and the air of 1920s Russia is in this restaurant, it's a wonderful place, I really love it.Suzy Chase: Describe watching the Bosporus.Caroline Eden: The Bosporus is the lifeblood of Istanbul; for me, if I think of Istanbul, I think of the Bosporus. It's this wonderful blue color and it's there and it's reassuring and it's a place to cool off in the summer. But to get on a ferry you get these lovely sea breezes when the city is stifling hot. But the Bosporus, I talk about in the book, watching it is like turning a newspaper, you can see geopolitics there on the Bosporus. So you can sit somewhere with a good vantage point and maybe a pair of binoculars if you're feeling brave, or a good zoom lens, and you can pick sometimes the names of some of the ships that are coming through. There are people who do this as a profession, these professional ship spotters in Istanbul.Caroline Eden: So this is a major waterway linking Russia and the Mediterranean, and therefore on to Syria, so you often get Putin's warships coming through, right through the center of Istanbul, you often get trading ships. So when things go wrong with, say, Russia and Georgia, or things have gone wrong with Russia and Ukraine and you get these geopolitical issues, you'll see ships coming in to bring fruit, vegetables, produce if the roads have been closed, for example, and the borders aren't open, there's different ways of trying to move produce that the Black Sea is used for.Caroline Eden: But really it's the Russian warships that get people rattled, and that's really interesting to see.Suzy Chase: On the map it looks so narrow, can two warships get through or is it just one at a time?Caroline Eden: I think you could probably get two through, it's actually at some points quite broad, and I mean you could write a book just on the history of the Bosporus, it's a fascinating waterway, and very much part of Istanbul, I mean the most important part in some ways, I think.Suzy Chase: Now I'd love to chat about the dishes that I made out of this book.Caroline Eden: Yes.Suzy Chase: So first was the Bulgur, Grape and Walnut Salad on Page 94; can you describe this dish?Caroline Eden: So it's a bulgur wheat salad and the idea comes from ... okay, someone has told me since publishing the book, "That's not an authentic Bulgarian salad," I have eaten it in Bulgaria and the point being that the Bulgarians were under Ottoman rule for several hundred years, there's huge Turkish influence in Bulgaria. If you go back before that, perhaps there wasn't any bulgur wheat, because bulgur wheat is really a Turkish, Middle Eastern ingredient. But the idea of this dish was to pair it with grapes, because Bulgaria has wonderful grapes and quite good wine culture, and the two go very nicely together. So it's kind of an invented dish, but I really love it, it's very light and it sort of shows ... there's a great problem about Bulgarians being the gardeners of Europe, and that was because in the early '90s Bulgaria exported more fruit and vegetables to this part of Europe, to Western Europe, than anywhere else. They produce fantastic fruit and vegetables, it's a reason to go to Bulgaria, the tomatoes are amazing, as they are in Ukraine actually, I have to say, as well. But really really fantastic fruit and veg.Caroline Eden: So this lovely salad, which I like very much and it's so easy to make, really tells that story.Suzy Chase: Then I made the Red Hot and Cool Strawberries on page 173, and this is something that you enjoyed in Istanbul, right?Caroline Eden: Yeah, it was just an amazing pudding I had, I'd never thought of pairing chili with strawberries before but I had it one night in Istanbul and it was just on a very, and this is a lovely summer's thing, a very very cold yogurt and then strawberries which had been cooked with some quite got chili and sugar on the top, and I just thought that was ... it was like the perfect pudding for me. Lots of people have enjoyed that one, it's always very interesting to see which recipes people really pick up on and that's been a popular one, and I love it. And I think, again, because it's very very easy to make.Suzy Chase: So then I made Black Sea Beans on Page 130, and this was a relatively easy recipe to prepare, but apparently there are bean masters that perfect this dish; talk about the bean masters.Caroline Eden: Yes, this is a very, very, very popular dish in the Black Sea region, and actually in Turkey generally, but it's all to do with the butter. So it's a very very rich bean dish, it's basically beans in a tomato butter sauce, but it's sometimes cooked in these great clay pots, which helps to give it its flavor, and when it's good it's absolutely sensational and it's such a simple thing. But it's to do with the butter because the Black Sea region, the climate it quite cool compared to the rest of Turkey, so a lot of very good dairy farming happens up there in the yaylas, which are the mountain pastures, and the cows have very good milk and they make fantastic butter. And it's this butter that they tend to use for the Black Sea beans, which makes it really special.Suzy Chase: So the last thing I made was Trabzon Kaygana with Anchovies and Herbs, talk about this salty, herbaceous cross between a fritter and an omelet.Caroline Eden: I saw on Instagram that you'd made this dish and I thought, "Fantastic," because it's one of my favorite ones in the book. It was a great adventure, I went off by myself one morning to see what was happening with the Soumela monastery, which is a cliff face monastery about a 20 minute drive outside of Trabzon, and it's been closed for a few years for renovation. So I wanted to go and see what progress was happening and I had a driver to take me there and back, a regular taxi guy, and he said, "Oh, do you want to stop for lunch? Stop at this place, it's on a little river, it's my friend's place, it's a really good spot." So I stopped there and I had lunch and this is what they served me and it was great, I don't speak Turkish, I had a waiter who spoke English and I said to him, "Please can you ask your chef for this recipe? I've never tasted anything quite like it.Caroline Eden: Because a lot of your listeners I'm sure will be familiar with the Turkish breakfast menemen, it reminded me of that but it was quite different because it's like a fritter. So it's an egg dish, obviously, and it has, when the season is right, which is normally the winter months, slivers of anchovy through it to give it that lovely salt hit. So that's how it comes, and I do it with a little bit of mint as well, which is quite an unusual flavor combination. Obviously I have very romantic memories of sitting on this little river by the Soumela monastery having this breakfast, but I hope I conveyed some of that feeling in the recipe, because it really is a lovely egg dish, very simple, and yeah, it's one of my favorites, it's a great breakfast dish.Suzy Chase: Now to my segment called My Last Meal; what would you have for your last supper?Caroline Eden: People always ask me this and I always try not to say the truth because the truth is very embarrassing. So let me-Suzy Chase: No, I want to hear the truth.Caroline Eden: Gosh, okay. Well I was at a dinner party just last week and a man asked me this question and he said, "What would your death row meal be?" And I said, "Well, ideally I would tell you that it would be some sort of splendid Uzbek Plov," which I love, it's a layered rice dish of carrots, onions, rice, maybe some quince, some lamb, cooked for hours, absolutely wonderful dish, the dish of Uzbekistan, my first book Samarkand was all about that. But if I'm absolutely honest, if I've been away for months, and I sometimes am away for that long, and I come back home, this is really British, the first thing I always eat is baked beans on toast with HP brown sauce."Suzy Chase: I love it.Caroline Eden: Yeah, I'm afraid it's kind of what I grew up eating and that is always the first thing I have and I have a feeling that might be the last thing I would eat as well.Suzy Chase: Where can we find you on the web and social media?Caroline Eden: Thank you, I am @edentravels on Instagram and Twitter.Suzy Chase: You traveled 1400 miles around the Black Sea looking at this region through its food culture, and I cannot thank you enough for coming on Cookery by the Book podcast.Caroline Eden: Suzy, it's been a pleasure, thank you very much for having me on.Outro: Follow Suzy Chase on Instagram, @cookerybythebook, and subscribe at cookerybythebook.com or in Apple Podcasts. Thanks for listening to Cookery by the Book podcast, the only podcast devoted to cookbooks since 2015-
This week, Gilly Smith meets author, Caroline Eden, whose book The Black Sea has received high praise across the food world, only last week winning her a special commendation at the prestigious Andre Simon Awards – and it was delicious deputy editor, Susan Low's favourite book of last year. You can hear Gilly and Susan discuss their favourite books of 2108 here Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Caroline Eden on “Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes – Through Darkness and Light” (Quadrille), a richly illustrated part-cookbook, part-travelogue describing places, people and recipes from the Black Sea coasts of Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria to Istanbul, Trabzon and Rize in Turkey. Become a Turkey Book Talk member to support the podcast and get (English and Turkish) transcripts of every interview, transcripts of the entire archive, and an archive of over 200 reviews covering Turkish and international fiction, history, journalism and politics.
Sheila Dillon is joined by cook and food-writer Chetna Makan, Tom Tivnan from The Bookseller’—the book industry’s bible, and Kate Young who won the Guild of Food Writers Blogger of the Year award in 2017 discuss the cookbooks of 2018. The list includes books by Diana Henry, Caroline Eden, Thom Eagle, Bosh!, Yasmin Khan and Snoop Doggy Dogg. They also discuss the inspiration for writing a book, how the books are produced, and the role social media plays in deciding who gets a book deal and how the books are produced and marketed. Rachel Roddy also gives her favourites of the year. There are also nominations from Mitch Tonks, Olia Hercules, Russell Norman, Bee Wilson and Paula McIntyre. Producer: Toby Field
Caroline Eden is a writer specialising in the former Soviet Union. Over the past decade she has filed stories from Uzbekistan, Ukraine, Russia, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan. She came to talk about her book 'Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes – Through Darkness and Light' is the tale of a journey between three great cities. We listened to Caroline’s stories of the remarkable individuals she met such as the last fisherwoman of Bulgaria and the inspiring meals that she ate on the way.
Justice can be elusive for the young domestic servants abused and mistreated in Pakistan. Kate Adie introduces stories from correspondents around the world: Secunder Kermani investigates what he describes as the "mess of allegations" surrounding the death of a 16-year-old domestic servant in Pakistan, and learns that for some people money and survival can be more important than justice. Amy Guttman explores the ironies that pervade one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world - the Demilitarised Zone between North and South Korea. Athar Ahmad finds out what’s it like to observe one of the longest daily Ramadan fasts. Early sunrises and late summer sunsets, mean more than twenty hours a day without food or water. In Iceland. Chloe Farand attends a cross-border meeting of indigenous people from Brazil, French Guinea, and Suriname as they unite in opposition to a controversial new gold mine. And, Caroline Eden visits the ‘Museum of Soviet Lifestyle’ in Kazan; the Russian city will soon be welcoming World Cup fans, but she found memorabilia from the 1980 Summer Olympics still on display.
Many Haitians see Oxfam’s actions as the latest part of a much bigger problem. Kate Adie introduces stories, wit and analysis from correspondents around the world. “Being poor, we’re a market for the NGOs” one Port-au-Prince resident tells Will Grant, “but it’s time to admit that we cannot develop our country with international aid.” Ahead of elections in Italy, Dany Mitzman watches fascists and anti-fascists face off in Bologna - a city famed for its left-wing politics. In Mozambique they’re trying to persuade parents not to give up on disabled children – Tom Shakespeare examine the latest development in inclusive education there. In Uzbekistan, Caroline Eden visits the capital Tashkent - famed for its chewy, golden bread and its kindness. And Alastair Leithead takes a trip along the Blue Nile with Marvin – a ball on a stick that sees virtually everything.
The Nigerian militants who rely on drugs to fight their fears and the displaced people taking them to forget the violence. Kate Adie introduces correspondents' stories. Sally Hayden reports from Madhugiri where the battle against Boko Haram is creating a growing problem with drug abuse. Tom Stevenson is in Diyarbakir, the Turkish city which has for decades, been at the heart of the conflict between Kurdish rebels and the state. Caroline Eden explores the Brodsky synagogue in Odessa and sifts through its archive which tells of controversies old and new. Rahul Tandon finds out that what you wear, what you drive and how you speak can affect which shops and restaurants are willing to take your money in India. It is, he says, one of the most class-conscious societies in the world. And David Chazan once owned a work of art worth tens of thousands of pounds – not that he knew it – opting instead to replace it with a coat of blanc cassé on the walls of his Paris flat.
The summer fighting season has begun in Afghanistan and, as Justin Rowlatt discovers, there is already a shortage of coffins following a Taliban attack. As the world worries about North Korea, Nick Danziger gets a glimpse of life in Pyongyang; designer coats, European football shirts and courting couples furiously tapping away on locally-manufactured mobile phones were not what he was expecting. In Uzbekistan, it’s the crunch of crinoline and sound of snapping cameras that surprise Caroline Eden – because now is wedding season in the former Soviet state. In the UAE, Julia Wheeler discovers a road named ‘Happiness Street’, a Minister of State for Happiness and fines for those who aren’t quite happy enough. And Mark Stratton goes to Sao Tome and Principe to see how a new approach to the cocoa trade is replacing the bitter legacy of the slave trade.
Pets and Politics; football and narcotics; and building a country with a flag. Kate Adie introduces correspondents' stories. South Korea is in political turmoil but, as Steve Evans explains, people seem more concerned with the fate of the now ex-president's pets. The narcotic plant Qat and Premiership football provide a welcome distraction from boredom in the Horn of Africa, says James Jeffrey. And governments are quite happy with that. How do you unify a country? That was a challenge faced by Kyrgystan's flag designers, as Caroline Eden discovered. The village of Deià, on Mallorca's north shore, is where the poet and novelist Robert Graves lived and died. Graeme Fife used to be a frequent visitor. Now he wonders how much the place has changed. Belize is one of the countries that still has the death penalty on its statute books. But it hasn't executed anyone for decades. And now others, including a woman with the nickname of the anti-Christ, are having their life sentences reduced. Charlotte McDonald explains why.
If your travel motivation is to discover new flavours, this culinary panel will take your tastebuds on an adventure. Caroline Eden & Eleanor Ford (Samarkand), John Wright, author of the River Cottage Foraging Guides (A Natural History of the Hedgerow) and Elisabeth Luard (Squirrel Pie And Other Stories) discuss how exploring different countries' food can … Continue reading Culinary Adventures // Stanfords Travel Writers Festival
If your travel motivation is to discover new flavours, this culinary panel will take your tastebuds on an adventure. Caroline Eden & Eleanor Ford (Samarkand), John Wright, author of the River Cottage Foraging Guides (A Natural History of the Hedgerow) and Elisabeth Luard (Squirrel Pie And Other Stories) discuss how exploring different countries’ food can … Continue reading Culinary Adventures // Stanfords Travel Writers Festival
Story-telling from the world of news and current affairs. 'For God, Tsar and Nation'. That's the motto of some of those fighting with the pro-Russia separatists in eastern Ukraine. Tim Whewell's been to talk to them about their dreams of a new Orthodox autocratic state; Mary Harper, in Mogadishu, has been finding out why there's a love affair going on between Somalia and Turkey; South Koreans are big believers in plastic surgery but Steve Evans, in Seoul, says there are now negative headlines after a string of news reports about botched operations; Bangladesh is known as a prolific producer of clothes for the mass market but Caroline Eden's been discovering it also makes saris so fine they're highly coveted and hugely expensive. And after more than a quarter of a century Justin Marozzi has mixed feelings as he bids farewell to the Moroccan town regarded as being the hashish capital of the world.