HandCut Radio

This episode is a poignant one. Yes, believe it or not, this is the final episode of HandCut Radio. After three years and more than 50 episodes, we're hanging up our microphones to pursue new projects.But, before we go, we wanted to respond to one frequent request that's come up while we've made this podcast. A surprising number of you have been in touch to ask whether someone could possibly interview Aleks, and now they have. For this special sign-off episode we asked Paul Croughton, editor-in-chief of the Robb Report to quiz our host on everything we've learned in speaking to so many fascinating and successful people for HandCut Radio. A huge thank you to Paul from the whole team here for taking some time out to record this finale episode.We very much hope you enjoy.

We could think of no better way to wrap up this season of HandCut Radio than by revisiting an old guest, Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury and co-owner of Drake's. We've called this episode “Mark Cho's take on 2022” because a lot of the themes we explore – the ‘casualisation' of style, the different ways men are reinventing suiting, the danger of hype and the saturation of everyone's attention – feel very relevant to the moment we find ourselves in. We hope you'll agree that this is a fitting end to our sixth season.As always, thank you very much indeed for your support and for tuning in. Don't forget to let us know what you think – leave us a review or drop us a DM.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Mark Cho — Website | Instagram[03:12] The Armoury[04:25] The Armoury City Hunter Jacket[04:51] Horological Society of New York[04:56] F.P. Journe[06:03] The Armoury Cotton Sport Chinos[08:03] Dayware Cotton 3 Pocket Blouson[08:04] The Armoury Wool Casentino Road Jacket[08:38] The Armoury's Spring/Summer 2021 Lookbook[11:42] The Armoury x H. Moser & Cie (HODINKEE)[12:04] H. Moser & Cie[14:10] Elliot Hammer[20:10] The Armoury TV[40:40] BODE[41:02] Edward Sexton[42:04] Lovat Mill

This week we're bending the rules of our New York style season slightly, by interviewing fellow Brit, Jason Jules. Regardless, his new book Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style is extremely pertinent to this season's theme, given its concern with mid-century American style. Aleks and Jason explore Black Ivy in this episode, of course, but we also hear about Jason's fascination for cultural trend-spotting, his passion for jazz music and his admiration for progressive rap culture. It's a fascinating conversation, this. We hope you enjoy it.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Jason Jules — Instagram[05:28] Duffer of St. George[07:58] Lynne Franks[10:12] Honey (magazine, defunct)[15:36] John Coltrane, Giant Steps[16:02] Dizzy Gillespie [18:06] Fred Astaire [19:08] Al Capone [20:16] David Bowie[25:19] The Limelight (club)[26:15] Round Midnight (film)[31:22] Jazzie B[31:26] Norman Jay MBE[31:39] Trevor Nelson[32:52] Stem Player[32:54] Donda 2[33:40] Frank Ocean[33:42] Tyler, The Creator[33:45] Pharrell Williams[33:47] Nigo[33:47] ‘I know NIGO!' (album)[36:16] Virgil Abloh[37:10] Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style (book)[39:00] Steve Urkel[43:13] Summer of Love[43:47] Long, hot summer of 1967[51:28] ‘The Black Ivy Edit' by Drake's & Jason Jules[52:08] Teal Madder Silk Fully Lined Bridle Leather Club Belt

This is the first of two ‘three years on' episodes we're featuring this season, with American brands that featured on HandCut Radio in the podcast's infancy. Regular listeners will know that we've always admire Nicholas Ragosta and Agyesh Madan at Stòffa, and their work in building a luxury brand that's as responsible as it is beautifully curated. In this conversation, we deep dive into how they've evolved the business over the course of the pandemic; introducing an impressive made-to-order e-commerce proposition, new limited edition collaborative “editions” of special products, and we touch on some of their pioneering responsible textile research, too.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Stòffa — Website | Instagram[29:57] 11.11[43:50] Edition 002[44:24] Edition 003 (with Landon Metz)[44:25] In Conversation: Landon Metz

This week HandCut Radio is coming to you from inside the pastel pink walls of F.E. Castleberry's Greenwich Village atelier, as Aleks sits down with the brand's founder, Fred Castleberry. Known for his creative, fashion-forward take on made-to-measure tailoring, and the dreamlike aesthetic of his campaigns, Fred has created a cult-brand with a razor-sharp point of view. He tells us about his grounding in design at Ralph Lauren, how he creates characters for all his campaigns, and why he sees clothes as conduits for different parts of his identity.We hope you enjoy listening, please do leave us a review if you like what you hear!---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:F.E. Castleberry — Instagram | Website[03:37] Rugby Ralph Lauren[04:54] Unabashedly Prep covered on GQ[17:32] ‘The heist of Dog with Lipstick' Campaign[20:13] Wes Anderson[21:52] Schott ‘The Perfecto®' Biker Jacket[24:16] Doomed & FamousL Selected Obituaries (book)[27:30] The Beatles: Get Back (Documentary)[30:46] Help! I'm becoming a Sloane Ranger (Financial Times)[31:55] BODE[37:09] Celine[40:28] F.E. Castleberry striped rugby [40:39] St. John Womenswear[43:08] Björn Borg[43:17] David Bowie[43:21] Jacques Cousteau

This week's episode of our New York City special is something of a departure from our normal service, in that it's much more about storytelling than menswear. You can blame Aleks for this; the chance to quiz Air Mail deputy editor and New York Times bestselling author Michael Hainey on on his extraordinary career was just too much to handle.So, in this conversation Aleks explores Hainey's career, gets his take on ‘finding your voice', and hears Hainey's thoughts on why the best journalists write up what they see, rather than what they think. The pair also chat through Hainey's cathartic experience in writing his extraordinary memoire, After Visiting Friends.If you enjoy listening, don't forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and leave us a five star review – it boosts us up the podcast charts, and helps other listeners to discover HandCut Radio.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Michael Hainey — Website | Instagram[10:33] Airmail[10:48] Spy Magazine (defunct)[12:55] Graydon Carter[17:30] Less Than Zero by Bret Easton Ellis[17:31] Bret Easton Ellis[24:10] Adam Rapoport[32:22] L'Etiquette Magazine[40:13] Stephen Glass, ‘Loving Lies' (article)[41:03] Shattered Glass (film)[43:05] Joseph Bullmore[48:29] After Visiting Friends by Michael Hainey (book)

Fun fact: when we decided to visit New York for this season of HandCut Radio, one name came up time and again: “you've gotta speak to Ouigi”, “oh, you're headed to NYC, well then, make sure you speak to Ouigi…” So, we did.Ouigi Theodore is a pillar of the NYC style scene, and the founder of much-loved store, The Brooklyn Circus. He speaks to Aleks about his pre-menswear career as a party promoter, explains why he's building a community-driven “100 Year Plan”, and he talks about why life is all about how you dress to show up. ---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Ouigi Theodore — Instagram | Website[01:28] The Brooklyn Circus[03:36] Stevie Wonder[03:39] Earth, Wind & Fire[04:07] Brian Davis on HandCut Radio[04:58] Stony Brook University[11:46] PROJECT, New York[13:38] Fabolous (rapper)[14:12] Evisu[17:37] Opening Ceremony[29:11] Mobb Deep[29:56] Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style (book)[30:02] Street Etiquette[35:13] Andre 3000[47:32] Jason Jules

“The clothes that we think of as elitist came from a place of fun and irreverence,” says Jack Carlson, founder of New York based indie brand, Rowing Blazers. Over the past six years, Carlson and his team have democratised the clothes most associated with stuffy Ivy League and Oxbridge sporting institutions, giving them a new lease of life. We talk about this at length this week, as Aleks explores just how Jack has built a brand that feels fresh and inclusive as opposed to elitist and stuffy. Thanks for tuning in as always, we hope you enjoy listening.  ---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Rowing Blazers — Website | Instagram[09:35] College of Arms[13:35] Rowing Blazers by Jack Carlson [book][19:18] Barbour x Rowing Blazers[20:42] FILA x Rowing Blazers[20:43] Sperry x Rowing Blazers[20:48] Harry's Bar x Rowing Blazers[27:28] The Jackal Magazine [defunct] [31:42] Paul Winston; ‘Chipp Off The Old Block' [article][33:37] Brendon Babenzien on HandCut Radio[34:19] Vineyard Vines[41:14] Rowing Blazers x Babar[43:28] Rowing Blazers Medieval Manuscripts[44:08] ‘Seiko's New Collab With Rowing Blazers Is A Stroke Of Genius' [article][45:11] Nike Dunk Low Georgetown[46:07] Rowing Blazers x Seiko ‘dad hat'

This week, Aleks meets Brian Davis, the founder of cult vintage American menswear store, Wooden Sleepers. Brian talks openly and honestly about the rollercoaster ride he experienced during the pandemic, which culminated in the closure of his beloved Red Hook store. He also talks about how life as a father has changed him, and why post-lockdowns, Wooden Sleepers 2.0 is the best its ever been. This episode has to be one of our all-time favourites, we hope you enjoy listening.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Brian Davis — Instagram | Website[02:30] Wooden Sleepers[05:08] Thrasher (magazine)[05:11] TransWorld SKATEboarding (magazine)[05:12] Big Brother (magazine)[05:46] Kurt Cobain[14:19] A Continuous Lean[14:20] Selectism [21:01] Sid Mashburn[22:24] @vintageprl[45:04] Wooden Sleepers x J. Press[45:19] Wooden Sleepers x Todd Snyder[45:26] Wooden Sleepers x J. Crew

Welcome to Season Six of HandCut Radio, our New York City Special. We're kicking off the season with a creative heavyweight we've wanted to meet for years: Brendon Babenzien. Aleks speaks to the co-founder of Noah and creative director of J.Crew Men's about why he thinks Preppy Style has been hijacked, how the Noah design team create for individuals rather than trends, and why the fashion industry's attitude of “it's not personal” needs wholesale change. He also hints at what we can expect from his first collection for J.Crew Men's, which will be unveiled in the autumn.If you enjoy listening, don't forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that's been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.---Show Notes:Brendon Babenzien — Instagram | Website[02:47] Noah[05:49] “What to Watch: Is Streetwear Becoming Preppy?” [article][10:36] Ryuichi Sakamoto[11:27] J Crew[21:47] Barbour[22:06] Supreme NYC[33:29] Pervert Clothing[36:12] Thrasher Magazine[36:40] Red Hot Chili Peppers[39:20] “Less is more: meet New York's mindful menswear makers” [article]

This week is the final episode in our four-part mini-season with Portman Marylebone. Ending on a high, Aleks sits down with Charlie Casely-Hayford, the owner and creative director at esteemed British menswear brand, Casely-Hayford London. Fellow fashionistas will doubtless know that Charlie inherited the brand from his father, the late, great, Joe Casely Hayford OBE, who sadly passed away in 2019 and was one of the most influential British designers of his generation.Today, Charlie is continuing to evolve the business in his father's stead and speaks to Aleks about how the brand continues to be informed ‘by a conversation between father and son'. We also touch on the brand's deft blending of high fashion and tailoring craft and explore how Charlie finds inspiration in both high and low culture – and everything in-between.If you enjoy listening, don't forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify – either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts and is very much appreciated by the HCR team!---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city's most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years.---Show Notes:Charlie Casely-Hayford — Instagram | WebsitePortman Marylebone — Instagram | Website[03:45] FT | How to wear a suit now[08:20] Dazed & Confused Magazine[08:22] I-D Magazine[08:48] Virgil Abloh[08:54] Abloh-isms (book)[09:35] Gieves & Hawkes[22:24] Central Saint Martins[22:58] The Courtauld[29:03] ACNE Studios[30:38] Mark Cho on HandCut Radio[31:38] Jazziunf on Spotify

This week, Aleks sits down with Olivia Francis, the founder of luxury men's underwear and loungewear brand, Hamilton & Hare. Olivia is on a campaign to elevate men's undies, and to get men thinking about the importance of their underwear drawer in a very different way; valuing quality, longevity and comfort every bit as highly as you would in a pair of shoes or a handmade suit.We hear about her decision to leave advertising to establish her own business, talk about the highs and lows of life as a sole founder, and explore the art of making boxer shorts without compromise. Thank you as always for tuning in, we hope you enjoy the episode!Don't forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify, either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city's most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years.---Show Notes:Hamilton & Hare — Instagram | WebsitePortman Marylebone — Instagram | Website[04:20] M&C Saatchi[06:20] SmileTrain Charity[06:24] Mary McCartney[19:48] Hamilton & Hare Wedding Boxer Short[27:02] Walpole Brands of Tomorrow[28:07] The Jackal Magazine [now defunct][28:30] Aleks' Articles on Walpole[28:58] Bremont[28:59] Orlebar Brown

This week Aleks sits down with Paul Simons, co-owner of the iconic Ivy League style destination, John Simons on Chiltern Street in Marylebone. In the ‘60s, John was the ‘OG' importer and populariser of the American Ivy League look in the UK and over the past five decades or so, John Simons has built up a cult following as a preppy menswear destination.Today, Paul manages the business day-to-day, and we sat down together to hear the brand's story from the horses's mouth. We chat about John's early years in business and the significance of the Ivy look, Paul's experience of growing up as an ‘Ivy kid' and we explore the cultural differences between American and English Ivy style too.Follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts too, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify — either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts and we really do appreciate the support!---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city's most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years.---Show Notes:John Simons — Instagram | WebsitePortman Marylebone — Instagram | Website[05:40] Lee Morgan on Spotify[07:58] And So Farewell, The Ivy Shop (article)[10:36] John Simons, A Modernist (film)[10:44] Jason Jules[11:00] Paul Weller[13:10] ‘The Knowledge' of London[14:07] Cadenhead's (whisky shop), Chiltern Street[15:25] Docksides[15:30] Russell Athletic[16:27] Paraboot[16:40] Steely Dan[21:28] Kevin Rowland[21:53] The man who dressed the mods (article)[23:48] Swiss M70 Came Military Jacket[31:09] Harrington Jacket (Baracuta G9)[32:15] Ryan O'Neil[33:00] Carhartt

This week's episode is the first of four produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone (@portmanmarylebone). We sit down with Rachel Wythe-Moran and Simon Watkins, the co founders of cult design store Labour & Wait.Rachel and Simon began their careers in men's style before opening what they call ‘their ideal general store' in 2000. We talk to them both about why they left the seasonal world of fashion to move at their own pace, what they look for in a well-designed product, and why a slow, guarded approach to growth has served them well for all these years. We really enjoyed this conversation, and hope you'll enjoy an interview with a slightly different kind of business this week.If you enjoy listening, don't forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify, either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city's most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years.---Show Notes:Labour & Wait — Instagram | WebsitePortman Marylebone — Instagram | Website[10:00] TOAST Circle[13:38] Edward Sexton[13:39] Tommy Nutter[17:08] ‘A Psalm of Life' poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow[28:50] Dover Street Market[31:50] Chiltern Street Deli[31:58] Shreeji Newsagents, Chiltern Street[33:57] HandCut Live with David Hieatt[35:49] Enamel Lidded Bin

Jeremy Langmead is arguably one of the most influential figures in British men’s lifestyle media today. He began his career working in prestigious newspapers like the Sunday Times and Evening Standard, before editing Wallpaper and Esquire magazines, and of course he was the founding editor at Mr Porter, where we are about to pick up the story.We quizzed Jeremy on just what it was like to launch the first seriously big multi-brand e-tailor, heard about some of his many challenges and learnings along the way, and we get his take on the perils of navigating digital media in this frankly crazy landscape. All that and more besides over the next 45 minutes.If you enjoy listening, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify, either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts.---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.---Show Notes:Jeremy Langmead — Instagram[02:49] Wallpaper Magazine[02:55] Mr Porter[12:31] Esquire Magazine[12:56] Paperboy Magazine[13:55] Christie’s[18:49] Orlebar Brown[19:47] Loro Piana[19:48] Brunello Cucinelli[26:29] Soho Home[26:53] The Modern House[27:05] Inigo[27:25] War Paint for Men[28:35] Daniel Gray, CEO of War Paint for Men[29:20] Vain Glorious: A shameless guide for men who want to look their best [book][30:25] Jeremy Langmead on the boom in male tweakments[32:31] Elton John & Olly Alexander ‘It’s a Sin’ BRIT Awards 2021[35:24] The New Craftsmen[37:55] Soho House[40:21] Arcteryx[44:26] Central Saint Martins

Our final conversation of Season Four is a fun one. Lizzie Radcliffe is the Head Cutter at Lot.1 – Levis’ bespoke denim service tucked away in the heart of London’s Soho.Whether you’re into bespoke craft, proper denim or luxury retail Lizzie’s story is a fascinating one; she joined Lot.1 following a bespoke tailoring apprenticeship with legend of the game Edward Sexton, and over a seven-year period, she’s taken Lot 1 from being just herself in the corner of a Levi’s store to a dedicated denim tailoring workshop with five craftspeople working on her team.She’s also been instrumental in rolling out Levis’s bespoke service around the world, in cities like Paris and Toyko. We loved chatting to her, and thought this would be just the episode to sign off with this year. As always, we hope you enjoy, and we’ll see you for Season Five in the spring.---Show Notes:Lizzie Radcliffe — Website[05:15] Edward Sexton[05:48] Davide Taub, Gieves & Hawkes[09:09] Brompton Bikes[09:22] Rapha[13:40] Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style [Book][27:00] Chris Modoo, S04 E07---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This week, Aleks sits down with one of London’s most intriguing young tailors, Fred Nieddu. Fred is a freelance bespoke tailor, pattern cutter and head cutter at Timothy Everest, a fresh-thinking tailoring house in Shoreditch, east London.Alongside his tailoring work, Fred also takes on a lot of work for big TV and Film costume departments, including all the menswear for Netflix’s The Crown. So, he and Aleks chat through his round-about root into tailoring, the strange world of movie wardrobe departments, and why Fred thinks it’s crucial that craftspeople don’t get set in their ways.As always, we hope you enjoy listening. And, for more insight into Fred’ work, you can look us up on Instagram @handcutradio.--- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney are the co-founders of Thom Sweeney, arguably Mayfair’s coolest tailor; offering bespoke and made-to-measure suiting, as well as a luxurious ready-to-wear collection that spans everything from double-breasted blazers to quilted cashmere parkas.The business is now 19-years-old, and Thom and Luke have built their brand from the ground up. In this episode, they talk Aleks through how they met and the winning formula they’ve developed over the years. As always, we hope you enjoy listening.---Show Notes:Thom Sweeney — Website | Instagram[03:05] Timothy Everest[05:24] LCF Pattern Cutting Course[10:43] DAKS[16:39] Graff[20:49] Thom Sweeney on Mr Porter[20:57] Toby Bateman[31:24] #TrueCharacter Campaign with Matt Smith--- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

In this interview, Aleks sits down with an old friend and long-time mentor, Christopher Modoo, who’s worked in London’s West End menswear scene for over 20 years.From designing for Savile Row tailors to consulting for heritage brands, Chris has done the lot. He’s also the co-founder of ready-to-wear tailored trouser brand, Kit Blake, so the pair explore why Chris’s latest venture has made such great strides so quickly.Chris isn’t short on an opinion, so this conversation is a curious romp through the sartorial world. As always, we hope you enjoy.---Show Notes:Christopher Modoo — Instagram[03:12] Kit Blake[03:52] Thomas Pink[06:00] Edward Green[06:18] Roderick Charles[06:32] 40 Savile Row[07:11] Richard James[07:17] Cad & The Dandy[07:17] James Sleater on HCR[07:20] SuitSupply[07:58] Ede & Ravenscroft, 1689[12:12] Chester Barrie[12:21] Edward Sexton[13:52] Richard Wheat[15:22] Kit Blake, Aleksander Trouser[16:49] L’Etiquette Magazine[26:53] Ozwald Boateng[28:06] Adret[35:03] Richard James--- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This week, Aleks sits down with a good friend and former colleague, watch writer and photographer, Justin Hast, who works with a number of luxury watch brands on their content and communications.Both Justin and Aleks came up through the magazine ranks together, and the pair reminisce about old times, explore how the watch industry is evolving, and try to find ground where influencers and old guard journalists can meet.Let us know what you think of the episode on Instagram by messaging @handcutradio, and if you enjoy listening please do leave us a review on Apple Podcasts.---Show Notes:Justin Hast — Instagram[02:20] Revolution Magazine[02:27] James Blunt, You’re Beautiful[04:45] Charlie Thomas[06:17] Omega Constellation 1960s[06:24] Gérald Genta[11:25] James Dowling[11:29] Nick Foulkes[11:32] Ben Clymer, HODINKEE[14:56] Jean Claude Biver on HODINKEE Live[16:48] Tracey Llewellyn, Revolution & Telegraph[17:14] Wei Koh, The Rake & Revolution[17:58] Ulysse Nardin “Freak”, watch[20:28] The Jackal Magazine [defunct][21:48] IWC Portugieser[22:16] Steve Jobs Stanford commencement speech, 2005[27:19] Talking Watches, HODINKEE[27:45] The Long Return video, HODINKEE[28:54] The Long Return, Part II, video, HODINKEE[29:43] Tudor Black Bay[33:37] Aleks getting trolled…[33:42] @hodonkee[34:07] Stephen Pulvirent[37:37] HODINKEE Travel Clock[42:25] Bremont, HCR S04 E04[49:32] A Collected Man[52:42] Valstar A1 Jacket[53:35] John Poulson, architect[53:59] Matt Jacobson, Talking Watches[57:02] A. Lange & Söehne, Lange 1---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Luke Walker is a freelance menswear designer and creative, with a wealth of experience designing for both global designer brands and cult-favourite independents. He’s also embarked on the process of creating his own brand, L.E.J, which is gaining much plaudits from fashionistas just a few seasons in.L.E.J focuses on the intersection of ‘utility and luxury’ in menswear design, so Aleks quizzes Luke on just what the philosophy that underpins L.E.J is. Luke also talks Aleks through some of his early experiences working at Lanvin and Dunhill, and reflects on why he’d rather feel comfortable than look pristine.As always, if you enjoy the episode, please do leave us a review – it really does help like-minded menswear-heads to discover the podcast.---Show Notes:Luke Walker — Instagram | Website[04:14] Alber Elbaz[04:20] Central Saint Martins[05:57] Dover Street Market[07:43] Lucas Ossendrijver[12:01] John Ray (Dunhill)[19:49] Luke’s Father’s Hand-drawn Plan[38:55] Wales Bonner[39:23] Craig Green---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This week, we present the first ever watch interview on HandCut Radio, with Nick and Giles English, co-founders of Bremont, a thoroughbred British watchmaker headquartered in Henley-on-Thames.The pair are natural born adventurers and horological innovators, so Aleks quizzes them on their love of flying, the vision that’s underpinned Bremont from day one, their passion for British manufacturing, and we unpick the latest buzzwords in the watch industry ‘inclusive luxury’.Don’t forget to leave us a review if you enjoy the episode, and follow us on Instagram @handcutradio.---Show Notes:Bremont — Instagram | Website[06:30] Gary Numan[10:05] Blériot XI [plane][32:23] Huntsman[43:02] Alice Made This on HCR, S02 E04---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This episode is an important one. André is an actor, writer and menswear-head who’s known for his louche, creative personal style. This week, he makes the case for slouchy style and waxes lyrical on jazz and hip-hop. He and Aleks also discuss the industry’s unfortunate lack of diversity, and André’s combined passion and honesty makes for powerful listening.Let us know what you think of the episode on Instagram by messaging @handcutradio, and if you enjoy listening please do leave us a review on Apple Podcasts.---André Larnyoh — Instagram[07:21] Die, Workwear![07:27] The Studio Artist Look, article[12:28] Bitches Brew, Miles Davis[14:50] Ethan Newton, HCR S03 E01[16:18] Bullitt, 1968[16:19] The Thomas Crown Affair, 1968[16:26] Doug Hayward[17:07] The Italian Job, 1969[17:08] Get Carter, 1971[18:45] Jean-Michel Basquiat[22:41] A Tribe Called Quest, Jazz (We've Got) Buggin' Out[23:37] So What (1959), Miles Davis[28:29] Art Comes First[28:30] Casely-Hayford[31:11] Jason Jules[31:20] Adam Rogers[31:33] Norwegian Rain[31:37] Ikiré Jones[31:38] Post–Imperial[38:07] No Man Walks Alone[38:08] Greg Lellouche, HCR S02 E09---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Aleks sits down with an old friend and Season One alumnus, Scott Fraser Simpson, the founder of Scott Fraser Collection. The pair discuss Scott’s early obsession with the mod-scene, his compulsive need to collect and the music that influences his clothing designs. Scott also touches on the need for retailers to be responsive in fashion today, and why a made-to-order retail model works so well for him.Don’t forget to leave us a review if you enjoy the episode, and follow us on Instagram @handcutradio.---Show Notes:Scott Fraser Simpson — Website | Instagram[01:52] S01 E02 Scott & Tony HCR episode[07:38] Earth, Wind & Fire[07:42] The Eagles, Greatest Hits[07:48] The Shadows[21:57] Scott’s scooters[24:13] Locker Loop[28:08] Scott Fraser Collection[36:34] Gauthier Borsarello, on HCR[40:55] SFC Icon Series, Ripley Anzio Knit Shirt---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

To kick-off season four we visit Jojo Elgarice, founder of Rag Parade in Sheffield, an eclectic vintage menswear store known for its wide-ranging collection and careful eye.We spent the day with him a couple of weeks ago and it was one of the most enjoyable days we’ve had working on HandCut Radio this year. He’s a ball of energy; full of jokes, quips, opinions, electric ideas and he’s refreshingly straight forward to boot.We hear about his early years building Rag Parade from the ground up and explore his philosophy as a vintage dealer. Expect colourful anecdotes and witticisms aplenty.---Show Notes:Jojo Elgarice — Instagram[17:58] C.P. Company[21:55] Fashion Buying & Merchandising, LCF[23:30] Rag Parade Contemporary[26:47] 1915 Liverpool, stitch-down collar photo[29:55] Douglas Gunn, Vintage Showroom[32:59] 4-pocket Belstaff Trialmaster Jacket---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Aleks introduces HandCut Radio Season Four, a season dedicated to young British designers, brands and creatives. From our favourite vintage dealer to the bespoke tailors who’ve contemporised the suit, these are some of the freshest takes on menswear within the UK.The season launches on 24th October at 6am GMT. Set your watches and we'll see you then. Follow us on Instagram at @handcutradio in the meantime.

James Sleater is the co-founder of Cad & The Dandy, a modern British bespoke tailor with shops on Savile Row, in the City, Stockholm and New York, plus outposts in Washington D.C. and Philadelphia. Cad & The Dandy's winning formula is thoroughly impressive; in a good month the brand cuts around 400 suits, more than most tailors make in a year. We chat to James about what motivated him to found the business, explore why he's fascinated by applying modern business practice to traditional products, and examine how Cad & The Dandy has cornered its market.We recorded this episode just a couple of days before London went into lockdown. It was intended for Season Four, but in a bid to help you enjoy your time at home, we’ve pulled it together as a lockdown bonus episode for you. We hope it provides a welcome distraction.And, while we’ve got you, don’t forget to sign up to our new editorial email, the HandCut Weekly. Visit handcutmedia.com/weekly to subscribe.---Show Notes:James Sleater — Website | Instagram[02:31] Cad & The Dandy[03:29] Peregrine[07:31] Johnstons of Elgin[14:34] Chittleborough & Morgan[31:52] Prologue, Hong Kong[31:54] Buzz Tang[32:23] Suit Supply Drawstring Trouser[39:30] Götrich 1730---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

For the final episode in Season Three, Aleks sits down with award-winning British fashion designer, Oli Spencer, who’s two brands, Favourbrook and Oliver Spencer, are both thoroughbred menswear gems. Oli began his career selling waistcoats on Portobello Road in the ‘90s, and has grown his business to half-a-dozen London stores, a buzzing e-commerce offering, and eight drops a year on Mr Porter. He and Aleks talk about his first few years on the ladder, his approach to retail and clothing design, and his focus on sustainability, which has been a big part of the Oliver Spencer brand for the past few years.Permit us to give you one more gentle reminder that if you’ve enjoyed this season, we’d love you to leave us a review below – it makes a huge difference to our visibility and helps more listeners to discover HandCut Radio. Thank you for all your support this season, we’ll be back with Season Four as soon as we can. In the meantime, give us a follow on Instagram @handcutradio, and keep in touch!***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Oliver Spencer — Website | Instagram[02:40] Favourbrook[04:22] The Wag Club[04:25] Chris Sullivan[04:32] Rebel Rebel: How Mavericks Made the Modern World (Book)[08:29] Four Weddings and a Funeral (Film)[09:24] Farlows, Pall Mall[10:50] Liberty Londo[10:56] Olie Arnold of Mr Porter on HandCut Radi[11:07] Oliver Spencer on Nordstrom, USA[11:34] Favourbrook on The Rake[20:20] Bleue Burnham[30:15] Sainsbury’s TU[31:58] Patagonia[32:02] Nudie Jeans[38:45] Matches Fashion[40:57] The Groucho Club---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

In the second of our two bonus episodes created in partnership with Thomas Mason, the HandCut team explores the brand’s unique fabric archive filled with over 800 leather-bound fabric catalogues dating to the 18th and 19th centuries, and held in a temperature controlled library by the Albini Group in Italy.In addition, Aleks chats to Maurizio Colnago, Thomas Mason’s head of fabric design, about how this extraordinary archive informs Thomas Mason’s fabric collections today, and he meets with Daniele Arioldi, the CEO of Albini’s spinning division, to learn about some of the rare and precious fibres that Thomas Mason weaves into its luxury shirting fabrics.To get an insight into this remarkable Anglo-Italian heritage brand was a privilege, and we hope that you’ll enjoy this journey into the world of fine shirt fabrics. Do check out our Instagram feed, @handcutradio, for some original behind-the-scenes photography, and some short films we shot during our visit.

This week’s guest is a New York based journalist and author who needs little by way of introduction. The brain behind New York Times best-seller, Men and Style, David Coggins is widely recognised as an intelligent and urbane voice in high-end men’s journalism. His website, The Contender, distills his passions as a writer, covering travel, men’s style, fishing and drinking, and seldom fails to be an entertaining and intelligent read.He talks to Aleks about writing and the process of finding one’s voice, the pair explore David’s own philosophy on menswear and Aleks indulges in a rant about a pet peeve of his in men’s marketing — so stay tuned for that. If you enjoy the episode, please do take a moment to leave us a review on Apple Podcasts. It boosts us up the charts and helps other people to discover the podcast. We really do appreciate the support, and hope you’ll tune in again soon.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:David Coggins — Website | Instagram[02:15] David Coggins Snr[04:40] Anthony Lane, The New Yorker[05:52] Owen Phillips, Men’s Vogue[06:48] Glenn O’Brien[10:25] Men and Style, Book[14:49] The Contender[15:39] Nick Hornby[30:58] Chittleborough & Morgan[33:40] Brideshead Revisited, Book[33:45] The Great Gatsby, Book[35:31] Men and Manners, Book[38:30] Terry Gilliam[38:33] Stanley Kubrick[38:45] The Smiths---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

In the first of two dedicated bonus episodes, HandCut partners with the Albini Group in Bergamo, Italy; the shirting mill responsible for protecting and maintaining the Thomas Mason brand today, and for weaving all luxury Thomas Mason fabrics.In this episode, Aleks takes a quick walk through the mill floor and sits down with Head of Communications, Gabriele Camozzi, and Marketing Director, Tim Neckebroeck. The trio discuss Thomas Mason’s relationship with Albini, explore the brand’s heritage and examine how Albini’s joint focus on innovation and sustainability feeds into Thomas Mason’s fabric collections today.It’s always a privilege to visit a manufacturer, particularly one that’s family owned and run, and which employs over 1,400 people, so we hope you enjoy this brief look at one of Italy’s most forward-thinking heritage brands.Keep checking our Instagram feed, @handcutradio, for original behind-the-scenes photography, and some short films we shot during our visit.

What does it take to become a bespoke hat maker today? And what makes a man want to pursue a craft, which is pretty niche, even by the standards of this podcast? That’s what we set out to discover this week, in a sit-down with LA-based hat maker, Cody Wellema, founder of the Wellema Hat Co.Cody has more or less dedicated his life to the noble art of hat making, and his passion for his craft speaks volumes. He’s open, honest and refreshingly forthright. He chats to Aleks about his love of all things vintage, the painstaking process each and every Wellema hat goes through, and the two explore how a beautiful hat can tell the story of a person’s life.As always, we hope you enjoy the episode. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio for regular updates (and daft pictures of Aleks), and to kindly leave us a review on Apple podcasts if you can.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Cody Wellema — Website | Instagram[0:45] Permanent Style Pop-up (2019)[1:44] Brasserie Zédel[39:50] Stòffa on HandCut Radio #018[45:00] Bryceland’s [45:11] Ethan Newton on HandCut Radio #021[46:00] Tie Your Tie, Florence[46:52] Connolly, England[47:08] Crockett & Jones[47:12] Yohei Fukuda[47:26] Cohérence, Japan---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This week, Aleks sits down with Andreas Larsson, the creative director of Scandinavian tailoring brand, Berg & Berg, which offers well-dressed men “a contemporary approach to classic style with a Nordic point of view”. We’d not met Andreas before, so we simply wanted to know what this means, and how he approaches his work as a designer and clothing creative.We caught him during Pitti Uomo in January 2020, and grabbed a quick 40 minutes between meetings to learn a little more about his route into menswear, his work for Berg & Berg, and to get his take on why the fashion industry needs to think differently about sustainability today.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Andreas Larsson — Instagram | Website[05:10] Gieves & Hawkes[05:36] Berg & Berg[05:47] Vitale Barberis Canonico[26:19] Johnstons of Elgin[27:47] Arnold Trousers by Berg & Berg[28:52] Raglan Coat by Berg & Berg[34:22] Milad Abedi on HandCut Radio---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Nick Sullivan is men’s fashion and media heavyweight. The Creative Director of US Esquire has over 25-years of experience in media and in menswear at large – he’s been a senior figure on Esquire’s editorial team for 16 years alone. He’s also one of relatively few journalists who appreciates both classic style and high fashion, and has found space for both throughout his career. His editorial shoots for Esquire are notable for the way in which he mixes global designers and small independents, and the likes of traditional tailoring with streetwear or couture design. Today, as Creative Director, Nick one of Esquire’s magazine’s editorial lynchpins, responsible for helming this bastion of men’s media through a changing landscape and for overseeing much of the magazine’s tone, storytelling and design.During a quick visit to London, Nick speaks to Aleks about where he thinks the media landscape is at, why the influencers he connects with aren’t actually influencers, and why classic style doesn’t stand still.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Nick Sullivan — Instagram[01:40] Esquire Magazine[11:29] Hiut Denim[12:50] Monocle Magazine[12:59] L’Etiquette Magazine[13:13] Hole & Corner Magazine[29:26] Hedi Slimane[32:19] Robb Report[32:21] Barbanera---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Very few brands out there are as special as Husbands right now. Paris’s chicest tailoring house occupies a unique position in the new community of brands taking root in the French capital. Nicolas founded his boutique in 2012, following over a decade working in law and then communications, and this move into menswear has given him a new lease of life. His approach to clothing is distinctly philosophical; he argues that ‘a suit is not just a suit’, but a tool to empower men to become the very best version of themselves – to be better fathers and husbands, for example.He insists that everything Husbands does is founded in a deep appreciation of culture, and he draws an important distinction between brands that merely ‘sell clothes’ and those which take care to ‘dress people’. We found his take on classic style fascinating, and hope that you will too.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Nicolas Gabard — Website | Instagram[11:06] Theorem, Pier Paolo Pasolini (film, 1968)[15:52] Wei Koh[17:05] Helmut Lang[17:06] Martin Margiela[17:07] Dries van Noten[18:49] Tommy Nutter[33:22] Cary Grant[33:27] North by North West (film, 1959)---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This week, our guest needs no introduction. Matt Hranek is the founder of the William Brown Project, editor of WM Brown magazine, a creative director, photographer, author of A Man & His Watch and a self-confessed ‘street hustler’, to boot. In other words, he’s about as busy a figure in indie menswear as it gets. Aleks caught up with him a few weeks ago at Pitti Uomo, to talk about his early career in photography, his move from mainstream media to independent publishing, and to contemplate the power of being niche.We hope you enjoy the episode, please do review us if so and give us a follow on Instagram @handcutradio.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Matt Hranek | Instagram[03:52] Yolanda Edwards[05:46] St JOHN Restaurant[14:52] Condé Nast Traveler [15:07] Guess Jeans[15:22] ELLE Magazine[20:36] Gourmet Magazine[20:37] Hooks & Bullets Magazine[22:48] New Yorker Magazine[22:49] The Economist Magazine[24:38] A Man & His Watch Book[25:44] Rolex Datejust[25:46] James Bond Rolex Submariner[25:56] Omega Speedmaster[28:44] Levis 501[28:53] Grenfell, England[28:59] Drake’s[35:29] Thom Browne[36:48] Dunhill[38:25] Horst P. Horst---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Mr Olie Arnold is a pivotal figure on Mr Porter’s editorial team – and a thoroughly nice chap, to boot. He started his career working on FHM at the height of its powers, and has worked through the media industry’s transition from print to digital with considerable experience in both channels. Today, at Mr Porter, he’s responsible for overseeing much of the platform’s key content and fashion shoots, styling celebrities, producing editorial campaigns and managing a fast-paced fashion department.Olie talks to Aleks about his journey through British men’s media – from twilight era “lads mag” to cutting edge online retailer. The pair also explore some theories as to why Mr Porter is so successful today, discuss the power of storytelling for retailers, and chat through some of Olie’s favourite indie brands of the moment. ***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Olie Arnold | Instagram[01:27] Mr Porter[03:00] London College of Fashion[04:00] FHM[08:12] Absolutely Fabulous[12:13] The Rake Magazine[15:38] L’Etiquette Magazine[15:43] Oliver Spencer[16:53] Men’s Health Magazine[20:36] Oki-ni[24:43] Paul Croughton on HandCut Radio[32:43] How Japanese Denim is Made Video on Mr Porter[35:42] Off-White[36:07] Incotex[36:26] BODE[37:38] Story MFG[44:10] Mr P.[46:06] Husbands[46:09] Samanamel on HandCut Radio[46:13] Maximilian Mogg---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Milad Abedi has to be one of the biggest personalities in European menswear. Young, energetic and fiercely opinionated, the Stockholm based photographer has a clearer view than most of where menswear’s at right now, thanks to his frequent travels shooting throughout Europe and beyond for a mixture of magazines and clothing brands. He took some time out to chat to Aleks about his street style photography, his own personal take on what makes for a great photo, and some of the thorny issues that creatives and brands are experiencing with Instagram today. ***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Milad Abedi | Instagram[13:40] Spencer Hart[22:48] Sergio Guardì of Barbanera[31:17] 18 East[31:22] Antonio Ciongoli[31:29] Glen Allsop[31:46] Fred Castleberry[32:22] The heist of Dog with Lipstick[32:39] Drake’s[33:58] Samanamel on HandCut Radio[34:04] Stòffa on HandCut Radio[34:07] All Blues[40:23] Jamie Ferguson[40:31] The Rake x Omega[40:48] Orazio Luciano---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

To kick-start Season Three, we could think of few menswear aficionados better suited than Ethan Newton, co-founder of one of Asia’s coolest indie menswear emporiums, Bryceland’s & Co. Ethan’s reputation within menswear precedes him. Together with his partner, Kenji Cheung, Ethan has created a brand with cult status to indie menswear-heads. Bryceland’s & Co’s diverse collection ranges from mid-century inspired Americana to unique strands of Southern Italian tailoring. Ethan’s passion for clothing is extraordinary, as is his self-assured perspective on what makes menswear special. Tune in for some insight into the founding philosophy of Bryceland’s & Co, Ethan’s own take on where indie menswear’s at, and to hear the two explore Ethan’s own personal mantra: ‘if you like who are, be who you are”. We hope you enjoy.***HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796.***Show Notes:Ethan Newton — Website | Instagram[02:22] Bryceland’s & Co[03:01] Kenji Cheung[03:06] RRL [03:07] The Armoury[09:34] The Rake[10:53] Jimmy Stuart[10:54] Cary Grant[10:54] Gary Cooper[14:08] Saint Crispin’s[16:38] Bryceland's Sawtooth Westerner Denim Shirt[32:08] Adam Rogers[32:08] Adret by Adam Rogers[32:14] Scott Fraser Simpson[32:18] Scott Fraser Simpson Knitwear[32:21] Drake’s---HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Your first taste of what to expect from our forthcoming third Season. Aleks hints at some of this season’s guests and gives you in the inside track on what to expect from the next 10 weeks.The season launches on 5th February at 6am GMT. Set your watches and we’ll see you then. Follow us on Instagram at @handcutradio in the meantime.

Mark Cho's contribution to classic menswear is among the most significant of the last decade. Nine years ago, he co-founded The Armoury, a menswear emporium with shops in New York and Hong Kong that is now a mythic destination for admirers of timeless men’s clothing. Known for its faultless service, dependable buy and meticulous approach to product development, The Armoury has become the benchmark for all other menswear retailers to aspire to.In this episode, Mark talks Aleks through some of the things that he feels sets The Armoury apart today, and some of the things he’s learned while building the business over the last decade. We also explore Mark’s passion for technology, fine watches and get his take on how to grow a luxury brand sustainably. Measured, calming and thoughtful, we hope that listeners will find Aleks’s conversation with Mark as insightful as we did.***This episode of HandCut Radio features a charity promotion for Suited & Booted. Visit https://www.suitedbootedcentre.org.uk/ to learn about how you can donate clothes to help those in need.***Show Notes:Mark Cho — Website | Instagram[03:32] W.W. Chan[04:11] Drake’s[05:40] Alan See[07:23] Ethan Newton[07:25] Bryceland’s[09:04] Orazio Luciano[14:35] The Armoury Shoes[14:46] Yohei Fukuda[16:47] George Cleverley[20:45] Michael Hill on HandCut Radio[30:15] Ray Dalio, Principles [Book][43:14] The Armoury Model 11[43:31] Tailor CAID[44:07] The Armoury 3 Pocket BlousonHandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Like many guys with a passion for clothes, Greg Lellouche’s first choice of career wasn’t menswear. Instead, he embarked on a successful career as an investment banker, but all the while an idea was slowly forming in his mind.Looking for a change of scene, he left the corporate world in 2013 to create an online store where other men like him could come to access tailored clothes made by artisans, at a time when, pre-Mr Porter, there were almost no options to pick up classic menswear outside of eBay.Skip forward to 2019, and No Man Walks Alone has established itself as one of the most respected online retailers in our space. In this episode, Greg talks to Aleks about what drove him to make the switch into menswear retail, and why he felt the time was right to launch a digital platform when online menswear retail was in its infancy. We also hear Greg’s take on the industry today, unpick the problems of “sprezzatura”, and get his tips on dressing well in a conservative business environment.***This episode of HandCut Radio is sponsored by Floris. Visit www.handcutradio.com/floris and enter your details for a chance to be sent a sample of their new fragrance Vert Fougère.***Show Notes:No Man Walks Alone — Website | Instagram[08:47] Sabrina, 1954[26:14] Jonah Hill Style[26:15] Shia LaBeouf Style[29:05] Air Jordan 4[29:06] Air Jordan 5[45:23] DOPPIAA[46:32] No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara[48:51] The Armoury[49:13] Union Made[51:05] Antonio Ciongoli[51:20] 18 East[51:32] Inis MeainHandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

This week, Aleks sits down with Agyesh Madan and Nicholas Ragosta, the co-founders of New York based brand, Stòffa.Stòffa is known for creating refined made-to-measure outerwear, knitwear and trousers, offering clients the backbone of their casual wardrobe with superior attention to quality and fit. Moreover, Stoffa is a brand with a conscience, Madan and Ragosta have worked smart for the past nine years to develop a brand that produces its clothes ethically, sustainably, and to put what they call the ‘thoughtfulness’ back into menswear retail.This episode goes deep: we discuss the problems and pitfalls of consumer culture, explore why our society needs to challenge the idea that convenience is a luxury, and we unpick why Stòffa tries so hard to go against the grain.***This episode of HandCut Radio is sponsored by Floris. Visit www.handcutradio.com/floris and enter your details for a chance to be sent a sample of their new fragrance Vert Fougère.***Show Notes:Stòffa — Website | Instagram[04:42] Isaia[06:38] The Armoury[11:00] Leonardo Genova[28:11] Sunspel[38:14] Simon Crompton, HandCut Radio #001[40:26] The Business of Fashion[52:10] Stòffa ‘Indian Coffee House’ Campaign[52:19] Stòffa ‘Holding Court’ Campaign[56:27] Oatly[57:39] Impossible Foods[58:15] TeslaHandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Patrick Grant is an award-winning British menswear designer and a champion of British manufacturing. In 2005, he quit a career in engineering, remortgaged his house and sold his car to buy Norton & Sons, a failing Savile Row tailoring house. He’s since transformed it into one of the Row’s most elegant and successful bespoke tailors.He went on to establish E.Tautz, a modern British sportswear brand that’s informed by its rich history of clothing innovation. Most recently, he founded Community Clothing, a design co-operative that makes clothes for men and women using British factories, and supporting local communities in the process. To do this, he’s developed a new retail model to create high quality clothes that can compete with fast fashion in terms of price.He speaks to Aleks about how he’s broken the mould, and why we all need to think differently about where our clothes are made.***This episode of HandCut Radio is sponsored by Floris. Visit www.handcutradio.com/floris and enter your details for a chance to be sent a sample of their new fragrance Vert Fougère.***Show Notes:Patrick Grant — Instagram | Website[04:54] Norton & Sons[08:04] Community Clothing[09:47] Grey[09:49] Wieden + Kennedy[12:47] E. Tautz[14:02] Harrods[14:54] BBC, Savile Row New Blood[14:55] Ian Denyer[15:04] Harris Tweed[17:09] John Blashford Snell[18:10] Kim Jones[18:47] Central Saint Martins[20:12] Lee McQueen[20:17] Christopher Kane[20:45] Christian Louboutin[21:12] Moving Brands[25:15] Hardy Amies[25:57] Vans[26:06] Tricker’s[26:22] Red Wings[27:20] E. Tautz Field Trousers[28:16] Nick Wooster on Blamo![34:11] Hammond & Co[34:29] Beams Japan[45:04] Marks & Spencer[58:22] Patrick Grant’s TED TalkHandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Aleks sits down with Paul Croughton, the editor-in-chief of Robb Report US, one of America’s most respected luxury lifestyle magazines. An experienced British journalist, Paul began his career in London, cutting his teeth on magazines like Heat and Arena, before he moved to The Times newspaper and finally across the pond to Robb Report.He and Aleks explore the challenges of editing a luxury magazine today, the changing role of digital media, and how Paul is contemporising the magazine for today’s affluent media consumer. Finally, we touch on Paul’s passion for menswear and the brands that are peeking his interest right now. This is a must-listen for anyone with an interest in the media landscape, digital content, and the challenges journalists face today.***This episode of HandCut Radio is sponsored by Floris. Visit www.handcutradio.com/floris and enter your details for a chance to be sent a sample of their new fragrance Vert Fougère.***Show Notes:Paul Croughton — Instagram | Website[02:15] The Times[03:10] The Beano[05:03] The Face Magazine[05:05] Arena Magazine[05:15] Heat Magazine[06:04] Jamiroquai Deeper Underground[07:16] EMAP Publishing[10:33] The Sunday Times[12:08] Bauer Media[15:09] Robert Smith, The Cure[18:30] Robb Report[19:04] Brave New World[21:05] Esquire Magazine[21:38] The Rake Magazine[22:51] The Jackal Magazine[23:47] PMC, Penske Media[34:45] Simon Crompton, HandCut Radio Episode #001[39:55] Mr Porter Journal[42:54] @MidtownUniform[45:02] J. Crew Liquor Store[48:28] Atelier Saman Amel, HandCut Radio Episode #013[49:42] Michael Hill of Drake’s HandCut Radio Episode #011[49:58] The Armoury[50:09] Edward Sexton[50:24] Stoffa[50:34] Valstar[50:56] Ring JacketHandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.

Benson & Clegg is one of those undiscovered gems in British menswear. Founded in 1937, today the company is a discreet Royal Warrant holding bespoke tailor on London’s Piccadilly Arcade.The house’s Head Cutter is a warm-hearted craftsman called Oliver Cross, with one heck of a story tell. His route into bespoke tailoring is nothing if not conventional. He talks to Aleks about the 10 years it took to realise his dream, why Benson & Clegg is special, and how the brand is moving forward to connect with today’s bespoke consumer. This one’s a heart-warmer of an episode – we hope you enjoy.---HandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.---Show NotesOliver Cross — InstagramBenson & Clegg — Website | Instagram[04:24] The Beatles on Savile Row[04:49] Dege & Skinner[05:14] The London Cut by James Sherwood[05:46] Chittleborough & Morgan[07:42] David Walliams[09:03] Inkberrow[09:31] 2019 Golden Shears Awards[10:49] Robinson Tailors, Alcester UK[12:54] Davide Taub, Gieves & Hawkes[12:55] Patrick Grant, Norton & Sons[13:01] Terry Haste, Kent & Haste[13:57] London College of Fashion (LCF)[15:28] Simon Crompton of Permanent Style, HandCut Radio #001[16:05] Laird Hatters[17:23] Richard Anderson[17:55] Meyer & Mortimer[18:41] Malcom Plews[25:20] Hawes & Curtis[30:42] Fabio Attanasio’s Benson & Clegg Jacket[45:22] Bob Dylan

Alice Walsh is the founder of Alice Made This, a modern accessories and jewellery brand that champions British manufacturing and precision engineering. A former industrial and product designer, Alice began her career working at Tom Dixon, before freelancing for various design studios and ultimately deciding to do her own thing.A struggle to find suitable cufflinks for her husband to wear to their wedding inspired her to start making some that were up to scratch, using British workshops, materials and techniques. That was in 2012, and since then, Alice has turned Alice Made This into one of independent menswear’s coolest accessory brands, stocked at Mr Porter, Liberty and The Conran Shop. How did she do it, and what has she learned along the way? Aleks sat down with her to find out.---HandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.---Show Notes:Alice Made This — Website | Instagram[03:10] Habitat[03:13] Tom Dixon[03:20] RCA (Royal College of Art)[07:52] forpeople[11:29] De Beers[12:00] Conran[13:30] Ed Walsh[14:31] Edward Cufflink[14:32] Alexander Cufflink[14:38] Jasper Cufflink[17:13] Jeremy Langmead (Mr Porter)[30:00] Beams, Japan[30:18] Becky French, Turnbull & Asser[35:16] AMT Women’s Jewellery[42:10] Pitti Uomo Nursery[45:19] Private White V.C.[45:44] Isabel Ettedgui, Connolly[46:23] Todd Bracher

The duo behind Stockholm-based tailoring Brand, Atelier Saman Amel, are two of the most down-to-earth individuals in menswear. Dag Granath and Saman Amel met as toddlers, and have been friends (and latterly business partners) ever since.Atelier Saman Amel is now nine-years-old, and during that time the pair have worked tirelessly to create a dynamic menswear brand with clothes that are neither formal, nor casual, but for those ‘in-between’ moments in a man’s life. They create clothes that make flawless use of texture and a tonal colour palette, inspired by art, architecture and interior design. Building a brand has been a real adventure for this pair, and to have the chance to hear their story gave all of us at HandCut Radio real pleasure. We hope that you’ll enjoy this episode too.---HandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.---Show Notes:Atelier Saman Amel — Website | Instagram[02:15] Thomas Sandell[12:55] Interaction of Color by Josef Albers[17:01] Highsnobiety[17:03] Hypebeast[17:10] Highsnobiety‘The New Luxury’ Whitepaper[19:12] Maison Margiela[19:13] Helmut Lang[20:37] Atelier Saman Amel Knitwear[22:14] Saman Amel RTW on Mr Porter[37:15] Ralph Lauren Biography[39:40] Paul Croughton (coming soon to HCR!)[45:48] Phoebe Philo at Céline

Gauthier Borsarello is a vintage collector, curator, a menswear designer and a journalist. One of the pivotal figures in Parisian menswear, he’s charming, opinionated and sure of his convictions.This week, he and Aleks talk about his various projects; from running Le VIF Vintage to launching and editing L'Etiquette magazine, the problems of ‘Insta fashion’, why menswear journalism isn’t always a good thing, and what it really means to be ‘elegant’ in the world today. This episode is fast-paced, direct and filled with pertinent opinion. We hope you enjoy Gauthier’s candour as much as we did.If you enjoy listening, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us too – it really does help to boost us up the podcast charts.---HandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.---Show Notes:Gauthier Borsarello — Instagram | Website[02:10] GQ Style Article[03:41] Gauthier on Double Bass[03:45] Orchestre de Paris[03:51] The Proms[06:52] Colette, Paris[07:21] L’Etiquette Magazine[07:23] Le Vif Showroom[07:25] Holiday Boileau[13:51] Edward Green[16:11] Johnny Cash in a black shirt[16:52] Celine Men’s Summer 2020[17:10] BEIGE Habilleur[18:30] The Rake Magazine[25:09] Kidur[25:40] Gauthier’s Vintage Piaget[35:17] Husbands[35:19] Cifonelli[35:22] Le Vif[36:04] Marc Beauge[36:29] Dick Carroll[38:12] Chapal[38:14] Corthay[39:55] So Press[49:43] Gauthier’s 1960s Abercrombie Hunting Suit[49:48] Hunter S. Thompson[49:55] Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas

In Season One, one brand came up as a favourite of our guests more than any other: Drake’s. Mr Michael Hill is the man responsible for this popularity. He is Drakes’ Creative Director, and it is his vision that has transformed the brand from a humble tie maker in London’s East End, to a globally recognised menswear brand with two factories and shops in London, New York and Tokyo to its name.The two discuss Drakes’ slow and steady evolution over the past 10 years, why Mike doesn’t think of Drake’s as a ‘brand’, and how running a small business – albeit a successful one – takes serious guts.---HandCut Radio is produced in collaboration with Birch, a London and New York based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.---Show NotesMichael Hill — Website | Instagram[08:00] Drake’s Editorial[11:30] Michael Drake[23:34] Drake’s High Summer Lookbook 2019[24:53] James Harvey-Kelly[39:24] Otto Mantero