Podcasts about finger strength

Let's talk building finger strength for beginner climbers. We're going to go over protocols and common practices so you can approach finger strength with longevity in mind. Do you believe finger strength is the most important thing to focus on? Because I don't. (Okay, it's in the top 3.) But hear me out: technique. Technique paired with consistency, intentionality, and curiosity will help build familiarity around hold positions, and you'll learn movement and strength. So have a listen to this week's episode and let's dive into finger training. 00:03:20 It's not just finger strength 00:04:15 What are your fingers doing 00:07:15 Hold proper hand positions with intention 00:08:34 Take this intentional approach to a training board 00:09:07 Time Under Tension 00:11:55 No Hang Protocol 00:22:25 Longevity in finger training 00:24:40 Other ways to improve grip strength and finger strength 00:26:15 Recovery example: rice bucket Check out my special offers below! 50% off Programs using code 5YEARSOMG at checkout

Climbing Coaches Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar joins to discuss: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Accessing thousands of points of climber data Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") The shocking results of the finger strength study What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers Goals for more studies and exploring other variables Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube @thestruggleclimbingshow  This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

In this Pro Clinic, Collin and Jesse from Camp 4 Human Performance cover: What "off-season" training should (and should NOT) look like Determining the adaptations we're seeking off-season Benefits of getting stronger from "toes to nose" How our age plays into our strength training plan Proven finger strength training protocol that takes ~20 mins per week Grip positions for more effective finger strength training  Set/Rep recommendations for strength training Specific exercises to most efficiently and effectively train the whole body Example training schedule to strengthen fingers, large muscles, and smaller muscles in just a couple hours a week - Follow along on Instagram: @thestruggleclimbingshow / @liftsmcgee / @coachjfire / @c4hp Explore coaching with Collin or Jesse by DM'ing them on instagram Use code THESTRUGGLE to get $50 off a 12-week strength training program from Collin Gain access to the full library of C4HP coaching videos and resources : patreon.com/c4hp - The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to: Patreon: Huuuuuuge thanks to all of you Patrons and Apple Subscribers! I couldn't make this show without your amazing support. There's tons of bonus stuff up there, exclusive deals from amazing brands, and a really wonderful community of stoked climbers - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________

In this exclusive Coach's Q&A from the C4HP Patreon we answer the burning questions that our members offer us each month. Included in those questions is the topic of endurance and Dr. Tyler Nelson has some new thoughts regarding better endurance training for climbing training.The team also dives into other questions regarding assessments and training plan organization.This 45 minute episode is only half of the full 90 minute discussion the coaches have! To listen to the full episode, and join the community of driven climbers and coaches, click the link below!https://www.patreon.com/C4HPSupport the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

The renowned coach and climber David Mason is back this week! This time we nerd out about some training ideas, talk about how he is mentally dealing with a recent serious knee injury and we ponder how much of climber's finger strength is really within their control at all. There's some interesting topics of conversation in there to  wonder about! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

#32: Finger Strength Training and Wilderness Medicine Interviews Dec 2023 Wilderness & Environmental Medicine journal online: www.wemjournal.org Questions/comments/feedback and/or interest in participating? Send an email to: WMPodcast@wms.org Part 1: Journal Club: A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury Link to article: https://www.wemjournal.org/article/S1080-6032(23)00110-2/fulltext CME Available for WMS members. [TO COME] Part 2: Darryl Macias's on-location interview with Drs. Nicolás Mena and Martin Musi at the Chile Summer DiMM Program Part 3: Fred Bossert interviews WMS committee leaders Drs. Jesse Gehner and Justin Gardner.

Exercise 24 carries over the same bassline from exercise 23 and introduces two new ending phrases. The lesson contains a few measures where right hand key gracing is utilized. It also contains hops where the right hand will have to make a hop down in order to perform inverted chord combinations. Ending number has a chord combination that really stretches the right hand. Work must be done to overcome this challenge.This piece is technical, challenging, and fun.

We are back! In this episode you'll catch the C4HP team discussing their recent training plans as they head into their climbing season, what they are doing differently this year as compared to last, and what they think climbers could do better to prepare to perform! The C4HP team has been busy developing and launching new projects: The Camp 4 Performance Certification - a Pass/Fail course design to teach and test coaches on their ability to coach, demonstrate, and think critically about exercises and concepts for the Youth Competitive Athlete. This course will leave coaches more confident in their abilities to coach and write effective training plans for their youth teams!Become a Camp4 Performance Coach!We are now on Youtube! Our next big push for our community is longer content that can dive into educational details more effectively. Please head over to C4HP on Youtube to subscribe to our channel to never miss an episode! Please like, share, and comment you favorite takeaway from our latest video: The Simplest Finger Training Method.We are launching a Patreon page soon! Be sure to keep an eye and ear out for our official launch and the exclusive offers contained in each tier!Support the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

Dr. Tyler Nelson dives deep into all things finger strength training - Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we've long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Get ready to get strong! - Topics: The difference between strength training protocols and hypertrophy protocols, and why many climbers are getting it wrong How to balance off the wall finger strength training with on the wall climbing  Exploring the various methodologies of finger strength training Why using a fingerboard doesn't make sense for training strength in experienced climbers  Why most climbers are doing too many hang board reps that are too long for building strength Proper set/rep schemes for building strength Whether a no hang protocol like Emil's viral routine is actually beneficial Minimal edge training vs just climbing The significant benefit of training fingers on an un-level edge How to switch things up to build muscular endurance - Follow along on Instagram @c4hp and @thestruggleclimbingshow.  Get $10 off a Tindeq with code C4HP at https://tindeq.com/?ref=530 - THANKS TO THE SPONSORS WHO SUPPORT THE STRUGGLE:   PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.    Fricition Labs is the official chalk sponsor of The Struggle. Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com.    KAYA Climb: Log your boulder sends and access 35+ GPS guidebooks and 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download for free, and get 20% the PRO version HERE   - The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow.  - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The Struggle makes us stronger. Thank you so much for supporting this show! And if you're still reading (wow!) would you take 10 seconds to rate/review the show? Thanks so much, it makes a big difference in reaching more climbers! 

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don't miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:49:54.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingOllie's Original Episode:EP 153: Ollie Torr

Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams' V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation' at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosiNuggets:0:05:18 – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland0:07:56 – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for0:10:53 – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield0:12:17 – Following Will's journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated0:15:38 – Mutation continues to go unrepeated again after Will did it0:17:23 – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)0:20:07 – Will's first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan's shed0:23:32 – Will's thoughts on Shawn's progress on Burden0:25:10 – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move0:30:16 – Will's standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica0:33:45 – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session0:36:26 – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden0:41:12 – How Will's beta compared to Nalle's, and the heal hook beta0:46:17 – What a full session looked like on the replica,  and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder0:51:28 – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send0:54:48 – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder0:57:33 – Will's shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move0:58:53 – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb's experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots1:08:50 – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?1:12:03 – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan's shed1:15:35 – Will's thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger1:26:27 – Will's feats of finger strength on the hangboard1:30:57 – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?1:34:21 – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b1:38:24 – Bigger edge training vs. micros1:40:52 – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity1:46:28 – Will's absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)1:49:10 – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur1:52:21 – What's next for Will, and potential plans for the summer1:53:59 – Will's thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a1:55:13 – Being more thoughtful about your climbing1:57:17 – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden1:58:22 – Subscribe to Will's YouTube channel for send footage!

Meet our newest Camp 4 Coach, Coach Jesse Fire Stone!Coach J Fire brings well over a decade of climbing experience and passion to the team. His wisdom is derived from endless curiosity about climbing, technique, skill acquisition and improving your mindset to more efficiently better yourself as a climber.Coach Jesse is currently taking on new clients and filling quickly! Click the link below to schedule your training!Train with Coach Jesse!Support the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie's top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery0:09:55 – Ollie's work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery0:14:25 – Ollie's thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie's funny story about his first interview on Training Beta0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression0:26:06 – “What got me here won't get me there.”0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie's process of examining movement, joint, and action0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan's approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower1:21:00 – Limbic friction1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low2:08:23 – Staying on the bus2:11:39 – Ollie's gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom's cellar2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is….2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn't think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter2:43:12 – My (Steven's) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can't train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering3:09:41 – “Progression isn't always the answer.”3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie's story about his first 5.14b (8c)3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing3:31:53 – Take action on something3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team3:36:42 – Wrap up

In this episode the Camp 4 Team sits down to discuss common rock climbing injuries found in the shoulder, elbow, and fingers. Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about why these injuries happen and what is unique to each area of the body and injury. Finally, the team details what you as a climber need to know about climbing outside, or in a gym, to reduce your risk for injury and what to do for training as well.Support the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this episode Dr. Tyler Nelson and Coach Collin McGee discuss the principles of creating a training plan for climbing for both on-the-wall activities and off.They discuss what should be done, seen, and felt in:Strength phasesPower phases Power Endurance PhasesEndurance PhasesCapacity PhasesPerformance phasesEach of those sections has unique characteristics that need to be considered in order to achieve the results of the training.Dr. Nelson and Coach Collin also answer user submitted questions at the end of the episode too so stick around to the end to hear specific questions get answered!Make sure to follow along with the team at www.camp4humanperformance.com and follow each coach's social media accounts: @liftsmcgee, @c4hp, and @technicallystrongSubmit your own questions to the coaches to have them answered on the next podcast!Support the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this episode the Camp 4 team sits down to discuss in-season training. What should we be doing when the weather opens up for outdoor climbing? We should be doing: Things that help translate our hard earned offseason strengths into climbing specific workMaintaining our force output through strategic exercise choiceManaging fatigue week-to-week so that we can arrive to the crag FRESH!This is done through strategic exercise selection as well as contraction type in those exercises. We also discuss how velocity training, or training at higher speeds of movement, can be a "hack" to maintaining our strength while transitioning that strength to movement that will enhance our on wall performance too.Ideally with velocity based training we know exactly how fast we are moving so that we can specifically understand if we are moving too fast or too slow, and so we can see when our velocity significantly drops off. The drop-off indicates fatigue as set in and we should end that set or session.Tools to track that speed and give realtime feedback are no longer $1000s of dollars! One of the tools we use the most in our C4HP training and assessments is the Vitruve Encoder. This devices will give you real time feedback on movement velocity on a user friendly app to help you level-up your training and coaching. At only $400 it is one of the cheapest ways to gain the edge you need to become a more powerful climber.And ending Nov. 20th Vitruve is giving C4P listeners at 15% discount on their device! The code can be found in the episode ;)Thank you so much to Vitruve for the sponsorship of the episode. Visit the link below to grab you device now!Vitruve Velocity DeviceDr. Tyler Nelson and Coach Collin McGee have new online courses coming up soon! Please visit the website for more information! www.camp4humanperformance.comAnd a new LIVE C4HP event is coming to Philadelphia, PA Decemeber 10th and 11th at Tufas Bouldering Lounge. Visit the link below to reserve your spot!Philadelphia C4HP Performance ClinicSupport the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

The Camp 4 Team sits down to discuss the "WHY" behind flexibility and mobility for rock climbing. The team talks about stretching, strength training, sets, reps, but most importantly key principles to remember and include to get the most out of your training. Key principles like understanding that stretching and flexibility training for the sake of flexibility training is not meant for everyone.  Doing things blindly, or because a friend is doing it, can be misleading and slowing down your personal journey...To dive deeper into flexibility and mobility training, consider joining the online Mobility Course hosted by coach Collin. The course is December 3rd at 11am EST. Participants will receive the prerecorded content ahead of time to learn and watch at their own pace. On the 3rd, a live discussion will be hosted by Coach Collin to clarify concepts and answer individual questions!Spots are limited so please register now at the link below!Online Mobility CourseSupport the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

 On this episode, Coach Gabe Olson shares his wisdom and expertise in climbing mindset, intention, and skills development. We talk about 5 things to consider when you are projecting a climb and how to improve your chances of success!Need help better understanding these concepts or clarifying what they mean for you specifically? Coach Gabe can work with you 1-1 to help you fine tune your climbing and help meet your goals sooner! Visit our website below for more detail!https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store/mobility-assessment-training-single-phase-ekehfYour support means the world to us! Please share this podcast with your friends, follow us all on instagram, and subscribe to our youtube channel to stay in the loop with all of our educational content!Dr. Tyler Nelson @c4hpCoach Gabe @technicallystrongCoach Collin @liftsmcgeewww.camp4humanperformance.com 

Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan's resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people's training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan's attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan's pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan's interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan's guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan's strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn't apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan's advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan's, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan's recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan's top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan's thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan's training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan's final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan's goals for me with my finger training

Dr. Tyler Nelson has been assessing finger strength for many years now. After some continuing education he recently went through a new light bulb flashed over his head. This light bulb leads to an addition on the Camp 4 Performance Assessment to identify the threshold of your muscle's peak recruitment. This is different from your maximal loadable weight that you can hang with on your fingers. Understanding this difference leads to more effective strength training with less fatigue to your body. This style of strength training is also more transferrable to actually climbing that traditional max weighted hangs.Dive into the details with the coaches of Camp 4 Human Performance to find out more! Listeners are going to receive a special discount from our finger strength assessment tool sponsor Tindeq as well! Visit the website below and enter the coupon code C4HP  at checkout for your discount on the already very affordable assessment devices!https://tindeq.com/?ref=530

The whole team is here to talk about strength training. The goal is to give a clean and clear definition of strength training and the principles behind it to guarantee what you're doing is actually improving your strength. This can be done on and off the wall as long as the principles are met.The coaches also discuss what we can do as climbers and coaches to assess ourselves, or work with a professional, to help clarify the direction we need to go with our training and climbing.Never hesitate to reach out to us on instagram or our website: www.camp4humanperformance.com@C4HP - Dr. Tyler Nelson@technicallystrong - Coach Gabe Olson@liftsmcgee - Coach Collin McGeeShout out to our new sponsors as well!Physivantage - Climbing nutrition, physivantage.comSilly Goat Holds - Climbing holds and wall products, sillgoatholds.co.ukBStrong - Blood Flow Restriction training products, bstrong.trainingTindeq - Climbing Performance Assessment Tools, tindeq.com

  In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are limitations to how fingerboard training translates to actual rock climbing. He talks about the physiology of hangboarding and two potentially better ways to train finger strength. Tyler also wrote an article about this topic, which you can find here.   About Tyler Tyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master's degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah. He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.   Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Injuries in Youth Climbers     Episode Links Article on this same topic Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

Introducing the C4P Podcast! The official podcast of Dr. Tyler Nelson and Camp 4 Human Performance. Get to know the coaches, mission, and direction of your new favorite thing to listen to as a rock climber!Make sure to follow the along with us on instagram to stay in touch and up-to-date with the latest in rock climbing training, rehabilitation and skills work. And keep an eye out for when we drop out next and officail first full length episode. Thank you for tuning in!Dr. Tyler Nelson @c4hpGabe Olson @technicallystrongCollin McGee @liftsmcgee

Today we have another returning guest having previously chatted on the show, with her partner in crime Kyra Condie. Who is both accomplished in indoor competitions as well as in outdoor climbing, having climbed up to V14! Please welcome back to the show .... Allison Vest!Allison first came to the attention of us at Lattice through a piece of data funnily enough. Quite some time ago, Tom Randall was compiling a list of the greatest finger strength levels ever measured in female athletes and Allison was right at the top.Naturally, he wanted to dig into the information a bit further as the numbers were pretty outrageous! Over the last few years, Allison has risen to the position of one of the most accomplished outdoor boulderers in the world having climbed up to V14, which is also on top of a track record of multiple competition podiums for indoor competition climbing. On top of this, she's someone who has a prolific social media presence, seamlessly connecting between content that's both light-hearted and serious, but always with such an accessible style. We wanted to get her back on the podcast to talk about all things performance, training and bouldering focused. Tune in to hear all about:Her transition from coached to self-coached climbingHow she manages training vs performingHer thoughts on restingHow she trains on a fingerboardWhat her ‘personal bests' or scores on a fingerboard areTesting with Camp4 Human PerformanceWorking ‘strengths' vs working ‘weaknesses' in climbingHer personal warning signs for when to not strength trainHow to access the ‘top end' in boulderingHow she deals with the ‘a Muerte' attitude towards training and performanceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box.The Climbing Bible:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martinNuggets:0:07:56 – Where we're all tuning in from0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another0:22:43 – Stian's proudest climbing accomplishments0:26:29 – Stian's process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a)0:31:04 – A day in Martin's life0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing0:38:24 – Martin's proudest climbing accomplishments0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another0:48:58 – Who the books are for0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport?0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders1:02:09 – Stian's thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.121:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit?1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.”2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian's FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+)2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and is sharing this information with us so that youth coaches and parents are better equipped to understand these injuries and avoid permanent damage to their kids. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol     Tyler Nelson Interview Details What the most common youth injuries are Why youth injuries can be confusing Most common age to get injured Risk factors for youth injuries How to properly diagnose A2 pulley vs. stress response injury Who to see about these injuries How to mitigate risk factors What it means to “spin your wheels” on the wall   Tyler Nelson Links Climbing Wall Association Summit where Tyler will be presenting Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.   Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page     Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Today we have a true legend of finger strength - the one and only Yves Gravelle. He has some of the strongest fingers in the world, pound for pound and has demonstrated this in both the climbing and arm lifting world, whilst also holding down a full time job and the added role of parenting on top of that. In terms of his climbing, Yves is an International comp athlete, having represented Canada for a number of years, he's bouldered V15 and repeated and established multiple problems in the double digit range. For Arm Lifting, he is 3 x APL World Champ, the lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell and has a PB of 105kg on the Rolling Thunder.If you're someone who's interested in the opinion, practices and methods of an athlete at the top 0.0001% of their game, when it comes to building strong fingers, then listen in hard!In this episode we cover the following topics:Yves's classic feats of strength.His early climbing years.The tools in the last 20 yrs that he's felt were most effective.How often he trains grip strength. How he balances that with normal climbing.What has been the role of arm lifting and when he got into it.Are arm lifters doing anything different to climbers?Hang vs lift tools for finger strength training.How he 'transfers' his training strength across into climbing.His balance of low intensity and high volume training.How he trains with limited time and resources. His tips for climbers getting into their first season of arm lift training.Yves' Sponsors: Bloc shop, Kailas, Tembo, Digit Climbing, Xcult USA, Coyote rock gymHis YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videosHis Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=enI'm from Ottawa, CanadaBeen climbing for 22 years. Ex Canadian National Bouldering team member. 7-8 time???3 x arm lifting World Champion (APL federation)8C boulderMultiple World records and class world records order  in the sport of Armlifting. Feats Highlight - lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell- 6mm one arm pull-up and deadhang- lattice test edge + 32kg- 105kg on the rolling thunder- 1-5-9 with construction gloves The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today's guest is one of the best climbers in the world right now. He's redpointed 3 9b+'s and 7 9b's, and won multiple IFSC world cups. Yes, it is the one and only Stefano Ghisolfi! The journey that this athlete has taken in the sport is a remarkable one, not simply because his incredible grades, but because he has so many relatable actions that many of us can also deploy in our own climbing pathway. Sure, we may not all reach 9b+ or Olympic selections in our life, but at our own personal level there are strategies that pay off ... big time. Those key strategies discussed come down to:1. Playing to your strengths and understanding how you can work on your long term (changeable) weaknesses.2. Building a solid grade pyramid of performance, experience and skill. 3. Appropriate methods for making a change in performance metrics. What strategies actually work for the thing you're trying to alter. 4. Working on your fear and mindset in a performance setting.Around these topics, we discussed - amongst other things:His first competition at 14 and how only 3 years later he'd got a podium and also competed in the Senior world champs and placed 10th in combined. What his early journey in climbing looked like. How quickly did he go through the grades?His first 9b Lapsus. His views on repeating some of the world's hardest routes like Change, Bibliographie, Perfecto Mundo. How important is this process/goal?His repeat of Bibliography and proposed 9b+ grade vs 9c.  How much bouldering does he do compared to sport climbing? Does it change at different times of the year?How does he fit in fingerboard work and other forms of more 'basic' S&C?His fear of heights, falling and exposure. How does he identify what he wants to work on each season?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

This episode's guest is professional climber and competition athlete Staša Gejo, who's track record is rarely matched. She has stood in every single position - gold, silver and bronze - across a variety of competitions from World Games, World Champs, European Champs and World Cups, climbed V13 and puts out consistent content on her social channels and YouTube channel which shares her thoughts and journey in climbing. Her top level track record extends way back from 2015 where as a junior competitor she won the World Junior Champs in bouldering and combined, so there is a big depth of experience and expertise here. What's so cool about Staša is that not only is she operating at the top end, she's also really good at communicating her thoughts about her journey in the sport. The ups and downs and also what works well when it comes to performance - especially around some recent dialogue on the topic of weight.We talked about:Her experiences with weight control and early journey as a comp athlete.The repercussions of a calorie controlled diet at 1200/day. How does her healthy weight management look these days.What does her indoor vs outdoor training and performance habit look like.Her thoughts on mixing forms and disciplines for performance and training. What does her specific finger strength work look like.How much strength work she finds optimal per week. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They'll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.   Make sure you're subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Exercise 23 involves the same 7th and 9th chord progressions as exercise 22, but it also introduces an octave up jump after playing the first series of chords (similar to a call and response technique). The exercise also retains the same bassline as exercise 18 but introduce an altered ending in measure 12.  The hardest part of this exercise is mastering the octave jumps.  Lots of practice should allow the building of this skill.

Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we're used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there's actually a better way. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. Tyler's ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I was psyched to hear about this new way of doing things. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries   Tyler Nelson Interview Details Why just climbing easy stuff isn't the most effective way to warm up How to warm up instead using a series of exercises to prep your whole body to try hard How this way of warming up is good for injury prevention for climbers The youth teams he's tested this on have all had great results How to incorporate it into team practice or your own climbing   Tyler Nelson Links Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.   Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emil-abrahamssonNuggets:3:11 – Building a van and planning a bouldering trip around Europe6:01 – My bouldering goals, Emil's progression, and setting goals9:27 – Trying a V15 as a V9 climber, and how a lot of climbers stay “comfortable” at a specific level12:53 – ‘The Big Island' 17:17 – Emil's first day of climbing, struggling early on, and getting hooked19:38 – Alternating difficulty and volume goals21:32 – ‘The Queen Mother' (Emil's first 8B/V13 project in Stockholm), and the limiting power of expectations29:21 – Reflecting on ‘The Queen Mother', and prioritizing psych and motivation32:00 – Felix37:13 – “Swiss Recruitment”, or the Swiss style of projecting41:00 – How Emil got into YouTubing, capturing the experience of outdoor climbing, and my impression as a viewer44:27 – Forgetting to charge the batteries, and the stress vs. fun of filming47:42 – Work-life balance when you love your work, and turning YouTubing into a career49:34 – How to balance capturing footage with training or performing, and capturing the good and the bad51:15 – Emil's “No Hangs” hangboard video, and his caveat for training advice56:00 – Quick overview of the “No Hang” hangboard protocol, and Emil's theory of why his fingers got stronger1:00:16 – We get most of our strength through climbing1:01:41 – 4x4s and other climbing games 1:04:10 – Training your strengths, and practicing weaknesses through climbing1:06:59 – How Emil structures his training, and embracing the stretching “pain game”1:11:49 – Turning challenges into positives, and the benefits Emil has noticed from stretching1:14:46 – Patron question from Florian about avoiding crimping early on in his climbing, and how Emil worked to improve his crimp strength later1:18:34 – How Emil rewired his brain to think, “Full crimps are comfortable. I can enjoy these.”1:19:32 – Emil's crimp progression and current level1:21:53 – One-arm pull-ups, 4mm crimps, front levers, and getting weaker on purpose to get better at technique1:28:55 – Emil's recommendations for progressing to a one-arm pullup1:33:41 – How Emil pronounces his name, and a Patron question from Flynn about training for indoors vs. outdoors and competing in World Cups1:41:12 – Flash training 1:43:44 – World Cup goals, and the flame of competition1:47:34 – What is one of the weirdest/worst training experiments that you've tried?1:50:24 – Favorite films, the critical eye, and the need for consistent content1:54:48 – Recommendations for new viewers1:56:35 – Emil's dream collaboration1:58:17 – Gratitude2:01:03 – Finishing the van, and plans for Switzerland and Italy

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.  He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad.  His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn't have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions.  While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries       Tyler Nelson Interview Details How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn't do on a hangboard How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time Results he's seeing with clients General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger When to do this during training/performance cycles General hangboarding questions answered What forms of training he would love to see go extinct The importance of appropriate training load Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue       Tyler Nelson Links Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

Muscle strength of the hands and fingers increases as children grow and participate in everyday activities. Activities such as climbing, playing with toys or scribbling with crayons all help to develop and strengthen the muscles of the hands and fingers. Hand and finger strength is important as it is required for many everyday activities such as doing up buttons and zips, climbing monkey bars or cutting up a piece of steak at mealtimes. It also helps to develop the endurance to complete activities such as writing a full page. Grip strength refers to whole hand strength. Pinch strength involves the thumb and index finger (and the middle finger if required).

A LEGEND OF BRITISH CLIMBINGIn today's YouTube and podcast episode we have none other than Steve Mcclure who is one of the all-time greats of British climbing. We don't say this lightly either, because it takes a lot to cross the borders and generations of time. Steve has been operating right at the cutting edge for 25 years or so - this means there's a LOT of experience AND knowledge on what works when it comes to process and performance! He's redpointed up to 9b (Rainman), multiple 9a repeats and FAs, many of the hardest trad routes in the UK up to E10/11, bigwall adventures, international competition performances... it's a lot! Tom sits down with Steve in this episode to take on a broad range of topics around his career in climbing - all the way from mindset, to finger strength, to training during lockdown, to methods for "the older climber" to differences between inside and outside climbing. Fascinating stuff! Grab yourself a cup of tea (Yorkshire hopefully) and get ready for some amazing insights into three decades of climbing at the limit. Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: https://latticetraining.com/plans/

Exercise 22 involves 7th and 9th chord progressions. The exercise retains the same bassline as exercise 18. Although simple, the chord progressions take a bit of practice to master in the correct fashion. There are minor syncopation features in the 9th ,10th, and 11th measures. Take your time and enjoy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:04.

Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder! Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a plateau or sending your project. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Podcast Rundown 6:09 - Gaining more finger strength without training your fingers! Huh? Listen and learn some secrets to becoming a more efficient and effective climber. 11:00 - Eric's comments about finger force testing. 15:30 - Five secrets to stronger fingers on the rock! 16:12 - #1: Learn the importance of climbing economy...and why a weaker climber can sometimes outperform a stronger climber. 21:33 - #2: Training hip flexibility increases finger strength-endurance, especially on near-vertical boulders and routes. 31:30 - #3: Stronger shoulders make fingers stronger. Learn why. 38:08 - #4: Stronger wrist flexors and wrist extensors will improve your sloper and crimp grips, respectively. 45:40 - #5: Increasing core strength and core strength-endurance make small hand and foot holds "bigger" and more solid...and increase apparent finger strength and endurance. But to obtain this effect, you must train comprehensive core strength with a wide range of exercises. 58:12 - Summary and final tips to improve your climbing. PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Meet my good man Lloyd O'Mahoney! He is a fellow rock climber and training enthusiast! He is a physical therapist, Functional Range Conditioning and Functional Range Assessment provider. He brings so much knowledge to the table, aside from the aforementioned, to make him the man to go see for your training and performance needs as a rock climber in Ireland.In this episode we discuss:The importance of initial assessment before any training programThat stretching alone for flexibility is not the take home point for improving mobilityImproving your strength and body control can improve your performance as well as mitigate injuriesThat improving your mobility can improve the usability of your finger strengthand much more!His website is still under construction but you can find him in beautiful Ireland in Cork or via his instagram handle: @kinetic_movement

Exercise 21 introduces syncopation. The right hand is holding notes across measures. Although lesson isn't particularly challenging; it is extremely fun to play. Left Hand:The is no change in the left hand; it plays the same bassline as in exercise 20. Keep playing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 20 is a slightly modified version of exercise 19 with the thumb and pinky spaced one octave from one another. The right hand pointing finger will get the most work in this exercise because it moves one half step up and down along the staff.Left Hand:The is no change in the left hand; it plays the same bassline as in exercise 18. Keep playing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz  Nuggets:  2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day”  5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’  5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16  8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing  9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno  11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel”  14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better”  15:28 – Using your build as a gift, scrunch power, and working on weaknesses while taking advantage of strengths  18:22 – “Strength comes first”  18:52 – Balancing performance with training  21:38 – “Practice like you play”, climbing on boards, the role of weight lifting, and “the most important thing is climbing”  23:48 – Matt’s go-to weight-room exercises, and a teaser for OTG (more later in the episode)  24:03 – Deadlifting w/ Tension Blocks vs. hanging from a hangboard  26:48 – Matt’s grip selection for finger training, and grip training frequency (Off Season: every other day. Performance Season: once or twice per week)  29:07 – How Matt decides between the different boards he climbs on  30:52 – The importance of a strong support system  33:10 – Matt’s trip to Australia w/ Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival, and bouldering with a new level of detail  35:07 – Nutrition timing, and planning meals around climbing, or vice versa  37:08 – Matt’s pre-workout meal  38:37 – The Mad Rock ‘Drones’  42:16 – Drones sizing (about 1.5 to 2 US sizes down from your street shoe)  44:50 – OTG Strength and how to train with Matt  49:24 – Balancing working/coaching with climbing  50:52 – Switching gears after ‘Hypnotized Minds’, project shopping, and climbing for fun  52:23 – Moving to CO and having access to a lot of hard boulders  53:40 – Dreams of van life  54:26 – Gratitude  55:30 – Where to connect with Matt  56:03 – Progressing every year, drawing inspiration from Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham, and goals  58:34 – The RV Moonboard  1:00:03 – “We will enjoy our Oreos today”  

Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details Why healthy hips are important for climbing What the most common hip injuries are How shoulder pain and hip pain can be related How to tell if hip pain is originating from back Specific stretches for high-stepping What to do about hip injuries   Other Interviews with Dr. Vagy Interview #1: We talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them. Interview #2: He talked about how to heal shoulder impingement. Interview #3: We talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain. Interview #4: We discussed finger pulley sprains. Interview #5: We discussed elbow injuries.   Jared Vagy Professional Credentials Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.   Supporting Videos from Episode Hip Mobility Part 1   Hip Mobility Part 2     Rock Rehab Protocol Links Dr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab. Inside Elbow Pain Outside Elbow Pain Finger Pulley Sprain Shoulder Impingement Rotator Cuff Strain Neck Strain Dr. Jared Vagy Links Jared’s book, Climb Injury Free Website: www.theclimbingdoctor.com Instagram: @theclimbingdoctor     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Transcript Coming soon…

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we’re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him: TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.     Tyler Nelson Interview Details What high volume power training is good for How it can improve your overall power and power endurance Why it’s better for sport climbers than boulderers Why it’s important to stop training when you lose power How this kind of training has helped his athletes What to know about high volume power training and how to use it Why campus boards need to have a way to take weight off     Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about high volume power training Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.   Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page         Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Transcript Coming soon.

Finger strength and dexterity can help you to play your music with more ease and help you with the more challenging playing skills. These exercises are designed to improve your finger (and hand) power, agility, nimbleness and more!In this episode Marlene shares detailed descriptions of her 6 recommended finger exercises.For virtual learning and more go to www.marlenesmusic.comJoin my Patron's Group, receive member-only rewards like admission to Facebook Live events ~ the next Patron's FB live is 9/29!This podcast was made possible in part by I Create SoundFor help getting your best sound, go to www.icreatesound.com Tips For Guitar Playing Success podcast is featured on...Best Guitar Podcasts Player FMTop 30 Guitar Podcasts Feedspot.comWiMN's (Women's International Music Network)Available on Apple Podcasts, Google Podcast, Amazon Music Podcasts, iHeartRadio, Spotify, Pandora, Stitcher, Castbox and more!

Exercise 19 introduces a new fingering pattern for the right hand using fingers 2 through 5. It couples the fingers 2 and 4 and fingers 3 and 5. When I originally worked through this, I had no problem using fingers 2 and 4, however, fingers 3 and 5 were challenging. After repeating the exercise, my problems with went away. Measure 8 is most challenging because it really works the relation between the middle finger and the pinky. Left Hand:The is no change in the left hand; it plays the same bassline as in exercise 18. Keep playing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.

Let’s strengthen those little hands!! Muscle strength of the hands and fingers increases as children grow and participate in everyday activities. Hand and finger strength is important as it is required for many everyday activities such as doing up buttons and zips, climbing monkey bars or cutting up a piece of steak at mealtimes. It also helps to develop the endurance to complete activities such as writing a full page.

Exercise 18 is a minor variation of exercise 17. The bassline remains the same, however, exercise 18 breaks up the straight eight note triplets played using the same fingers in exercise 17 into something a bit more challenging. Exercise 18 also introduces a chromatic conclusion to the lesson in measures 11 and 12. Enjoy!Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

In this episode I'll be discussing finger strength for beginners. This episode will be most useful to people climbing for less than a year and a half. If you're more experienced than that you might get some new insights in the different grip types, antagonist training or upper body strength parts of the episode. Feel free to contact me at @boldbouldering on instagram.

Exercise 17 introduces a walking bass line on the left hand and broken chords on the right that traverse up and down the keyboard in octave intervals. This piece is not complex. Multiple reps should cure most of the the technical problems it introduces.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 16 introduces a new technique called a "Running Riff." Mastering this technique will allow a student's right hand to move chromatically up and down the musical scale. It is a challenging technique to master, but fun to use in improvisation song breaks. The left hand is playing the same bassline from exercise 15. If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 15 uses a combination of techniques from both exercises 13 and 14. Technical challenges occur between measures containing grace note chord changes such as moving from measure 4 using a G7 chord to measure 5 with a C7 chord. These challenges can only be overcome through discipline practice. Don't give up! Keep playing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 14 is a minor variation of exercise 13 where the right hand approaches oncoming chords from below. The left hand plays a slow single finger bassline and the right hand plays seventh chords. As before, the biggest challenge appears in measure 12 with the closing of the song. With the exception of the hops and leaps, this lesson is not complex, so it shouldn't take long to master. Keep playing and don't! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 13 introduces a new bassline and melody. It feels more like the old school traditional blues you have come to know. The left hand plays a smooth single note bassline, and the right hand switches finger patterns to cover the chords it plays. Once again, students will face technical challenges in measures 1 & 12. This lesson is not hard, so it shouldn't take long to work through. This lesson piece was me to be played slow. If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 12 is a slight variation of exercise 11. The left hand plays a double bassline and the right hand is being forced to stretch the fingers over an octave span. The same technical challenges still exist in measures 1 & 12. The melody is inverted in comparison to exercise 11. Happy playing and practicing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for PianoBy Ron PayneCopyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATIONInternational Copyright Secured All Rights ReservedItem# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 11 introduces new concepts for the left and right hands. The left hand plays a doubled bassline and the right hand is being forced to stretch the fingers over an octave span. Students will face technical challenges in measures 1 & 12. This lesson is not overly complex, so it shouldn't take long to master if being practiced by a novice. Keep playing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 10 is very similar to Exercise 9. It also contains challenging finger techniques. Techniques such as fingers being spread an octave apart; fingers two and three crossing over the thumb to play lower keys, and gracing of fingers two and three as well as fingers three and five. Exercise 10's bassline is pretty straightforward and can be played with little to no difficulty. It WILL take a while to successfully complete if being practiced by a novice, but repetition will make way for success. Keep playing! If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 9 is the exercise that you've been waiting for. It introduces a real blues song filled with good, challenging finger techniques. Techniques such as fingers crossing over another to stretching the thumb and pinky to play keys an octave apart are introduced in it. The exercise makes a slight alteration to Exercise 8's bass line and includes notation for foot pedal incorporation. This exercise is both fun and challenging. It will take a while to successfully complete. But keep at it and you will see results. If you need a copy of the book, please use the information below to get yourself a copy.Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 8 reintroduces an old bass line and right hand finger patter. The pattern in this exercise helps builds finger strength of all fingers on the right hand. There are very few melodic notes played in this exercise, however, playing them helps the player gain finger independence as the speed of play is increased. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise 7 continues with a minor variation to the stepping pattern introduced in exercise 6. The pattern in this exercise is repetitive and builds finger strength. The level of difficulty is not as challenging as in exercise 6. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Exercise introduces a stepping pattern involving the pointing finger instead of the grace note introduced in exercise 5. Again, this exercise takes a little time to learn because of the focus of strengthening the second (pointing) finger on the right hand. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Basic Blues for Piano: Exercise 5.Exercise introduces a new grace notes melody and bass patterns. This exercise takes a little bit to learn because of the incorporation of the grace note as well as other fingers on the right hand. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Basic Blues for Piano: Exercise 4.Exercise introduces quarter notes broken down into eight note triplets that are doubled by a note an octave apart. The bass is the same as in exercise number 2 so isn't discussed. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Basic Blues for Piano: Exercise 3.Exercise introduces quarter notes broken down into sixteenth note sextuplets. The bass is the same as in exercise number 2. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Basic Blues for Piano: Exercise 2.Exercise introduces quarter notes broken down into eighth note triplets. The bass although different on paper plays almost the same as in exercise number 1. The narrator identifies where the problem areas lie for newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

Basic Blues for Piano: Exercise 1.This episode details spots in exercise 1 that may trip up newcomers. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

This episode discusses the 12 bar blues and its variants. It also lightly touches on how the Blues progression should be played. Basic Blues for Piano By Ron Payne Copyright (c) 1984 by HAL LEONARD CORPORATION International Copyright Secured All Rights Reserved Item# 00240075 - US$24.99 - Available for purchase from local music retailers. Used by Permission of Hal Leonard LLC

This episode is a continuation of the first introductory episode. This episode lightly discusses the following music theory concepts: note names and values, time signature, and the grand staff. This episode also discusses finger independence and finger numbering. It is recommended the listener owns a copy of the Piano Method book being discussed in order to continue practicing the techniques offline.The user can acquire the Piano Method book by searching for it using the following information.Title: Basic Blues For Piano by Ron PaynePublisher: Hal LeonardPublished: 1984ISBN-10: 079358115XISBN-13: 978-0793581153Listeners can acquire a hand strengthener by visiting Prohands.NetEnter coupon code: BWS10 to save 10% on purchases.

This episode details what will be needed to successfully follow along with the narrator before beginning the exercises inside the first Piano Method book. Other topics such as finger strength, finger independence, and note reading are also mentioned. It is recommended the listener owns a copy of the Piano Method book being discussed in order to continue practicing the techniques offline.The user can acquire the Piano Method book by searching for it using the following information.Title: Basic Blues For Piano by Ron PaynePublisher: Hal LeonardPublished: 1984ISBN-10: 079358115XISBN-13: 978-0793581153Listeners can acquire a hand strengthener by visiting Prohands.NetEnter coupon code: BWS10 to save 10% on purchases.

While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways. Numerous research studies have confirmed that elite climbers, compared with non-elites, have higher grip-strength-to-mass ratio, greater forearm endurance, and a higher rate of force development in the finger flexors. Therefore, assuming that you have solid technical and mental skills, training for stronger fingers is paramount to taking your climbing to the next level. In this episode you'll learn 5 reason why strong fingers matter--this will set the stage for the next podcast which will cover effective fingerboard training techniques. 0:15 - Intro 1:00 - Research on Finger Strength of Elite Climbers 1:42 - Reason #1 Why Strong Fingers Matter - They Can Grip Smaller Holds 3:00 - #2: Stronger Fingers Can Endure Longer 9:10 - About Zlagboard 11:55 - #3: Strong Finger Can Rest on Smaller Holds 15:25 - #4: Strong Fingers Have More Stamina 18:15 - #5: Strong Fingers Make Climbing More Fun! 18:50 - Summary 20:10 - Closing Comments Tune in next month for detailed coverage of effective fingerboard training for stronger fingers! Music: Misty Murphy Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!

New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic.  Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 1 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at neely@trainingbeta.com and we'll try to answer it.  What We Talked About How he likes to train finger strength Who should train finger strength and who should not What "repeaters" are and how to do them Kris Peters Links More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Kris's online programs you can start following today with 3 workouts/week (bouldering and route training) Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

Beginner guitar lessons- learn the basics