Georgian fashion designer
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En este episodio hablamos de los cambios que están surgiendo en el mundo de la moda, como la despedida de Donatella Versace tras 27 años al frente de la casa y la llegada de Dario Vitale como su sucesor. También analizamos el nuevo rumbo de Gucci con Demna Gvasalia, quien deja Balenciaga para asumir la dirección creativa de la marca.Esto es Hablemos de Moda con Claudia Cándano y Jordi Linares, disponible en video en Youtube y en audio en todas las plataformas de podcast.
A la espera de ver qué sucede con los nuevos aranceles al vino europeo anunciados por Trump, la presidenta del BCE, Christine Lagarde, advierte de que una guerra comercial a gran escala perjudicaría sobre todo a EEUU y podría ser una “llamada de atención” para Europa. Entre tanto, el gobernador del Banco de Francia, François Villeroy, advierte de que los planes de rearme de Europa no pueden ni deben ser una vuelta al cueste lo que cueste” y su colega en el BCE, Robert Holzmann, avisa de podría ser necesario subir los tipos si los aranceles, un mayor gasto en defensa o una relajación del freno a la deuda alemana acaban provocando un repunte de la inflación. Por otra parte, la economía británica se contrae en enero y el hombre más rico de Europa, el fundador de LVMH, propone elevar la edad límite del presidente del consejo de administración de 80 a 85 años. Y Kering, la matriz de Gucci, nombra al diseñador georgiano Demna Gvasalia nuevo director artístico de la marca para intentar revitalizarla. En la Tertulia de Cierre de Mercados debatiremos la actualidad con Juan Iranzo, catedrático de Economía Aplicada de la UNED, e Ignacio Ruiz Jarabo, exdirector de la Agencia Tributaria.
Por Marcella Lorenzon e Luciano Potter: No episódio 128 discutimos a percepção do belo e fomos a fundo na coleção de Alta Costura da Balenciaga. Discutimos as mensagens do diretor criativo Demna Gvasalia e traçamos um paralelo com Cristobal. Linkamos com a marca Patagonia e todas as suas ações para modificar o consumo e salvar o planeta. E falamos de moda, muita moda. Porque moda importa. Patrocínio: Grupo IESA @grupoiesa http://www.grupoiesa.com.br KTO BRASIL @kto_brasil https://www.kto.com Apoio: Steal the Look http://www.stealthelook.com.br @stealthelook Trilha: Sonora Trilhas @sonoratrilhas Edição de áudio e vídeo: Bárbara Saccomori @barbarasaccomori
In this episode we evaluate the importance of branding, storytelling, and the digital savvy required in today's fashion industry. Is this portrayal of looting a harmful reinforcement of stereotypes or Kirby Jean-Raymond's genius provocation? We take inspiration from the transformative work of icons like Virgil Abloh and Demna Gvasalia, who have blurred the lines between luxury and streetwear. But it's not all runway and spotlights; we also get real about our personal battles—juggling the demands of career and motherhood and stay present in the ever changing media landscape. Our intimate chat is a must-listen for anyone who's ever dared to dream while fighting to keep their head above the tide of an unrelenting digital current and stay in a creative flow. Join us for a heart-to-heart that's as insightful as it is resonant.Like, subscribe and be on the look out for a new episode every week!Credit and special thanks goes to:Produced by: Aziza Duniani @woman_BusinessMusic supervisor: Chic loren @chicloren_Music by: Gavin Williams @thegavin1
President Zelensky of Ukraine asked Serbian performance artist Marina Abramovic to be an ambassador of Ukraine. Who is Marina, and why does her dark art have such an appeal to global elites? Tonight we'll talk about her, Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia, the Azov Battalion, and the Vril Society. MERCH - https://hawkhoundmedia.com/collections/conspiracy-pilled ---------- Support the show and get bonus UNHINGED episodes ----------(NEW) ROKFIN - https://www.rokfin.com/ConspiracyPilledLOCALS - https://conspiracypilled.locals.com/ODYSEE - https://odysee.com/@conspiracypilled:1 ---------- SPONSORS ----------NORTH ARROW COFFEE - https://northarrowcoffee.coUse code CONSPIRACY10 to get 10% off your order!HEALTYCELL https://healthycell.comUse code CONSPIRACY for 20% off Conspiracy Pilled is part of HAWKHOUND MEDIATo see other podcasts and content by Hawkhound Media go to:https://hawkhoundmedia.com Conspiracy Pilled Links – https://conspiracypilled.com ------- FOLLOW THE HOSTS ------- Abby – https://solo.to/abbylibbyPJ – https://solo.to/pj_unhinged Music by : Drake Campos #spiritcooking #ukraine #balenciaga
This week, Netflix have released a new 6 part docuseries together with Harry & Meghan covering the inside story with content led by the couple themselves on their courtship, journey and exit from royal life. We share thoughts on their complex journey (from episodes we've seen so far) and why it matters most for them, given both of their pasts and potential futures to do so in their own words and with full control. Dyson have released The Dyson Zone; noise cancelling headphones that also purify the air you breathe when wearing them. A step too far in the wrong direction or a display of how this innovative brand can aid health services? At $949 and releasing soon in the US, we discuss if we would buy ourselves and where in the world we see this selling best. Balenciaga's Creative Director, Demna Gvasalia publicly apologised for his involvement in what he called a 'wrong artistic choice of concept' over their latest controversial campaign. Are we impressed? Do we accept his apology? As Christmas adverts kick-in we discuss the relationship between authentic, valuable advertising and how it links to commercial business needs this time of year. Led from a interest in the repetitive strategy Dutch supermarkets continue to take, we suggest this is an even deeper copy-culture than we initially thought.
Old friend Glen of Rare Candy and Back Wall pods joins us once again to further stuff the digital void with some more content: Balenciaga, pedos, Kanye. You know the drill. Soundtrack: Hunting Lodge "Shadow out of TIme" Seigneur Voland "Ma Necropole" Kevin Coyne "Eastbourne Ladies" Tav Falco Panther Burns "Bourgeois Blues" Bone Crusher "Never Scared" LINKS: Glen Twitter: @GlenRockney Rare Candy: @RareCandyPod1 Rare Candy Podcast
Niños, sadomasoquismo y porno juntos en una imagen, ¿qué puede salir mal? Eso parece haber pensado Demna Gvasalia, director creativo de la marca Balenciaga en su última campaña, que terminó por ser suspendida tras indignar, con toda razón
We want your feedback! Fill out our listener survey for a chance to win a $100 Patagonia gift card. First, we have to talk about Balenciaga. If you type “Balenciaga child porn” into Google right now, you get 2.6 million hits. That is not good and they have only themselves to blame for an ad campaign that posed toddlers with bondage-themed plushie bear handbags and booze glasses, like they'd walked in on the tail end of of a sex-fueled all-nighter. For the time being, the CEO, Cedric Charbis, and designer Demna Gvasalia have managed to avoid taking direct responsibility for this blunder, which is a real mess. The brand issued an apology using the royal “we.” We also take a look back on Raf Simons' career as he shutters his label after a 27-year run, and then wonder what happened behind the scenes at Gucci that led to them parting ways with Alessandro Michele. COP27 ended with a whimper, so we brought on our Executive Producer, Scott Clavenna, to give us his takes on what was accomplished and what was left to next year's delegates to address. Then we take a quick look at the holiday season for retail this year, and it's not all bad. There are some bright spots for resale, and hopefully less bright for fast fashion. And speaking of fast fashion, luxury resale powerhouse Vestiaire Collective announced they're banning fast fashion from their platform. And H&M released an ambitious carbon reduction plan. Have a question for Christina, Rachel and Shilla? Give us a call at (508) 622-5361. We might feature your voicemail in an upcoming episode. Resources: WWD on Raf Simons Vogue Business on COP27 and fashion The Fashion Law on the rise of resale this holiday season Vogue Business on Balenciaga making a series of “grievous errors” Sourcing Journal on H&M's decarbonization plan Hot Buttons is a production of Post Script Media. The show is hosted by Christina Binkley, Rachel Kibbe, and Shilla Kim-Parker. Follow the show on Twitter. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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Die Modemarke Balenciaga ist in den letzten Jahren immer bekannter geworden, was nicht zuletzt an den Kreativdirektoren Nicolas Ghesquière und Demna Gvasalia liegt. Die Designer wussten durch ihre Schnitte zu polarisieren und führten Balenciaga damit zu weltweiter Bekanntheit. Dabei blickt Balenciaga auf eine Unternehmensgeschichte von über 100 Jahren zurück. Begonnen hat es alles bei Christobal Balenciaga, der das Unternehmen gegründet hat. Wie Balenciaga durch die Haute-Couture bekannt geworden ist, es zum Milliardenkonzern geschafft hat und warum Menschen bereit sind, 500 € für ein T-Shirt der Marke auszugeben, hört ihr in Folge 15 von Unternehmen dieser Welt: Balenciaga - Eine Modemarke erwacht wie der Phönix aus der Asche Spannende Ideen für Unternehmen, dessen Geschichte ich unter die Lupe nehmen soll? Dann senden Sie mir gerne einen Vorschlag genauso wie Feedback oder Fragen an: UnternehmendieserWelt@eclipso.de
Balenciaga es el rey Midas de la moda cuando hablamos de contenido viral. Parece que todo lo que toca Demna Gvasalia firmado por Balenciaga se convierte en oro de las redes sociales, para bien o para mal. La verdadera pregunta es ¿esto es moda? ¿Y se está respetando el legado de la casa? En este episodio, nos echamos un clavado a la historia de Balenciaga, así como sus directores creativos, para entender hacia dónde está llevando Demna la marca y si es merecedora de todo el hype que genera. Esto es Hablemos de moda con Claudia Cándano y Jordi Linares, disponible en video en Youtube y en audio en todas las plataformas de podcast. Suscríbete a nuestro canal en Apple Podcast y escúchalo un día antes.
El día de hoy Balenciaga reveló su colección colección otoño-invierno 2022/2023, con el diseñador de orígen georgiano, Demna Gvasalia, al frente de la pasarela por segunda ocasión.
Por Marcella Lorenzon e Luciano Potter: No 47° episódio fomos mais fundo no assunto “tênis destruído da Balenciaga”. Destrinchamos a narrativa de Demna Gvasalia - diretor criativo da marca - por trás do Paris Sneaker e de todos os passos da casa, do desfile apocalíptico aos looks polêmicos. Trouxemos profundidade ao assunto mais comentado nas redes sociais na última semana, explorando campos como marketing, branding e história da moda. E falamos de moda, muita moda. Porque moda importa. ———— Patrocínio: Grupo IESA @grupoiesa http://www.grupoiesa.com.br Nelly @produtos.nelly http://www.nelly.com.br Feira Brasileira do Varejo @feirabrasileiradovarejo https://feirabrasileiradovarejo.com.br Água da Pedra @aguadapedra https://www.fruki.com.br/marcas_e_produtos/Agua_da_pedra/ Apoio: Steal the Look http://www.stealthelook.com.br @stealthelook Trilha: Sonora Trilhas @sonoratrilhas Edição de áudio e vídeo: Bárbara Saccomori @barbarasaccomori
Mixed kids experience racism from both sides but y'all ain't ready to talk about that tho shirt, a fashion activist, went to Instagram to criticize Vetements' “business activism.” Over the phone, she clarified, “This is not about cultural appropriation.” “It's culture bashing for me.” Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia “has the right to be interested in what occurred in the Middle East and bring it to light,” according to a Palestinian-Lebanese fashion blogger and former political journalist residing in Paris. “He's denigrated our culture since he stole the Mixed kids experience racism from both sides but y'all ain't ready to talk about that tho shirt from another less well-known designer,” she continues. It's not a difficulty doing business with us because of our heritage, but you must be courteous.” “I understand what they are doing,” Al-Qasimi told Vogue Arabia, despite the fact that he does not hold the rights to the term. Mixed kids experience racism from both sides but y'all ain't ready to talk about that tho shirt has to do with materialism. But it's a total disaster for the area… I utilized the print to draw attention to the misery of a situation in the Middle East. I don't believe Vetements realize what these phrases mean to us Arabs since they use it in such a casual and provocative way.” Buy it: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/mixed-kids-experience-racism-from-both-sides-yall-aint-tran-hoai-kha/ https://rosetta-campaign.net/mixed-kids-experience-racism-from-both-sides-but-yall-aint-ready-to-talk-about-that-tho-shirt
The It's not an addiction until you've sucked dick for it shirt was part of a collection that flirted with themes of consumerism and late-stage capitalism, straddling the line at times awkwardly. The exhibition itself, from a brand that moved to Zurich in 2017, was held at Paris's largest McDonald's, which had been targeted by anti-government gilets jaunes protesters not long before. Models wore name stickers that said, “Hello, I am capitalism,” while It's not an addiction until you've sucked dick for it t-shirt riffed on the World Economic Forum logo and read, “Global Mind Fuck,” and hoodies had reworked PlayStation insignia that read, “Paystation.” Demna Gvasalia, the designer behind Vetements, is no stranger to the bootleg style, having created a It's not an addiction until you've sucked dick for it shirt in 2016. He has toyed with the design of the Ikea Frakta bag and referenced the carrier bag design of German grocery chain Edeka in his job as lead designer of Balenciaga. International courier firms and Swedish furniture shops, on the other hand, are not the same as a It's not an addiction until you've sucked dick for it shirt that will conjure up images of battle in the minds of many. Buy it: https://rosetta-campaign.net/its-not-an-addiction-until-youve-sucked-dick-for-it-shirt https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/its-addiction-until-youve-sucked-dick-shirt-tran-hoai-kha/
Balenciaga e Valentino: la moda è comunicare qualcosa, uno strumento politico. Forse le sfilate delle due maison sono state le più emozionanti e ricche di significato della Paris Fashion Week (possiamo dire del fashion month, direttamente?) Demna Gvasalia per Balenciaga ha improntato tutto sul racconto della guerra, i suoi modelli hanno camminato nella neve, impersonificando attualissimi profughi. Pierpaolo Piccioli da Valentino ha invece improntato tutto sul colore, lavorando ad una collezione total pink, con alcuni look neri, che parla di individualità, ricerca del dettaglio che ci differenzia, volontà di svuotare il rosa di ogni valenza di genere. Nella moda, raccontare, è diventato uno statement: si può ancora fare attraverso gli abiti, come Valentino, oppure la collezione è passata in secondo piano, vedi Balenciaga che ormai ripropone da molte stagioni gli stessi capi e la stessa estetica? Link utili: L'inverno artificiale della collezione Balenciaga FW22 - https://www.nssmag.com/it/fashion/29180/balenciaga-fw22 La sfilata - https://www.balenciaga.com/it-it/inverno-22 Note di Demna https://www.instagram.com/p/Cawo8DsI2ay/ PARIS FASHIONWEEK VLOG BALENCIAGA – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml6MlANT7yoDJR6EBHqs0g Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, and a World of Clones - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3y2FfHAyacc The History of Balenciaga - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kNFJo1-wUcINSIDE THAT BALENCIAGA HAUTE COUTURE SHOW! By Loic Prigent - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kHxHQQ4EQ8 Valentino Pink PP Collection - https://www.valentino.com/it-it/collections/valentino-pink-pp-collection "Valentino Pink PP" diventerà una nuance Pantone - https://www.nssgclub.com/it/fashion/29179/valentino-pppink-pantone-fw22 VALENTINO, «IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE» https://style.corriere.it/moda/valentino-fashion-week-parigi-pfw22-23/ A closer look with Pierpaolo Piccioli - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUsweXcVd54&t=1s --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/fashionpizza/message
With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lilia Litovskaya is now safe in Paris. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.
En temps de guerre, comment parler de mode ? En affrontant le paradoxe. Grâce à la Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode, Lilia Litkovskaya a pu quitter l'Ukraine. Pour Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia – qui a fui sa Géorgie natale en 1993 lors de la guerre civile soutenue par le Kremlin – présente sa collection dans un univers hostile. Les griffes Marine Serre, Atlein, Benmoyal et Germanier prônent également, à travers le recyclage, la liberté d'expression pour ne pas oublier qu'il faut sauver la planète.
Por Marcella Lorenzon e Luciano Potter. No 40° episódio discutimos a guerra na Ucrânia e sua dimensão, e debatemos também a Semana de Moda de Paris - incluindo a carta do diretor criativo da Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia - e como ambas estão interligadas e afetam a vida de todos nós. Comentamos o texto de Lucas Assunção, ao discorrer em como a moda pode, verdadeiramente, ser vetor de transformação e manifesto anti-guerra. E falamos de moda, muita moda. Patrocínio: Grupo IESA @grupoiesa http://www.grupoiesa.com.br Nelly @produtos.nelly http://www.nelly.com.br Apoio: Steal the Look http://www.stealthelook.com.br @stealthelook Trilha: Sonora Trilhas @sonoratrilhas Edição de áudio e vídeo: Bárbara Saccomori @barbarasaccomori
如何构建潮牌文化?|一|潮牌进入主流时尚行业庄主:今天的主题起因源于2021年11月28日 Virgil Abloh因癌症41岁英年早逝。身为街头潮牌当红辣子鸡OFF-WHITE创始人和LV男装创意总监,他引领了一个时尚的时代。我们先来看一个潮牌进入主流时尚的"名场面":2018年夏天,LV首位非裔创意总监Virgil Abloh在巴黎时装周发布首秀,一张谢幕后Virgil Abloh与挚友Kanye West紧紧相拥而泣的照片。(图片来源:2018年LV巴黎时装周秀场图)庄主:潮牌进入主流时尚史也就刚刚开始揭开新篇章,所以续航力有多久还要等待时间考验。我们先看几个潮牌进入主流时尚史的案例吧:SUPREME无疑是最火爆的街头品牌和潮牌大赢家。曾经3万人排队几公里就为了买LVx SUPREME的联名款,SUPREME的号召力有目共睹,“你想买都难,有钱都买不到。”是消费者对SUPREME的认知。(图片来源:LVxSUPREME联名产品)芸友Kisho:我对潮牌的启蒙认识也是因为此品牌,而且因为很多K POP明星穿过,所以我才了解到一点点的,我认为这是双赢的合作选择。庄主:大家对SUPREME X LV这个联名系列怎么看?芸友Ming:与潮牌合作后,那些奢侈品牌的配色设计也更大胆了。庄主:(图片来源:LVxSUPREME联名产品)和众多黑人一样,Virgil Abloh从小就喜欢Hip-hop、摇滚与滑板,深受街头文化影响。大学时期Virgil Abloh就读于威斯康星大学麦迪逊分校土木工程专业,后来硕士主修建筑。Virgil Abloh一直对潮流艺术和音乐都有自己独特的看法。2003年,他加入说唱歌手 Kanye west侃爷的创意团队。2006年,Virgil Abloh与Kanye West以实习生的身份进入意大利奢侈品牌FENDI公司,这六个月的宝贵经验为后来两人的发展积累了许多重要的经验与人脉。2013年,Virgil Abloh创立时尚潮牌OFF-WHITE,沿用奢侈品的做工及面料,以高级时装混合街头时尚。 凭借着独特的风格,以及极高的辨识度, OFF-WHITE很快就在潮流圈占有一席之地 。标志性的一些设计元素有双引号、斜杠底纹、交叉箭头……(图片来源:OFF WHITE官网)2017年OFF-WHITE x NIKE“The Ten”系列成了爆款制造机。凭借着“REVEALING”与“GHOSTING”两大主题,奠定下当今备受歌颂的“解构”球鞋核心。两者更在后续有著丰富的鞋作登场,至今依旧是鞋迷心中的必入手代表;除此之外他在 LV 2022 春夏系列裡展现了最新款 NIKE Air Force 1 联名鞋款,多样化吸睛配色加上品牌质感工艺的塑形,诠释更多未曾见过的 Louis Vuitton 街头样貌。(图片来源:NIKE官网)这是我今年在米兰时装周里做的国潮风走秀,意大利人非常认可国潮风。(图片来源:庄主拍摄于米兰时装周)芸友Kisho:中国市场在营销界里都被认为是不容小觑的地方。所以我会认为,这更多的是一种必然的趋势,也是时尚界包容的态度。庄主:但目前的国潮我感觉也有太多的非理性爱国因素夹杂在里面,不够纯粹。国际对中国时尚界的包容态度背后是因为中国国家的强大。我经常说,我在我们学校大家都对我特别尊敬,不是对我个人,而是因为我背后有强大的祖国。国潮需要和爱国情绪分开,品牌如果想长足发展,一定是打铁要靠自身硬。下面我们接着看潮牌案例:2012 年Virgil Abloh创立了 PYREX VISION。同年,他被任命担任Kanye West的创意公司DONDA的创意总监。2015年Virgil Abloh 入围 LVMH青年设计师大奖,2018年,他作为 LV的男装艺术总监首次亮相。(图片来源:LV 2018春夏男装)大家印象最深的应该是LV 2021春夏男装。在集装箱经历了近一个月的 “漂洋过海” 后,终于登陆上海滩。2020年8月6日晚上 18:30,在上海油罐艺术中心举办了品牌疫情后首场实体秀:(图片来源:LV 2021春夏男装)2015年,在 Alexander Wang 于法国百年时装屋 BALENCIAGA(巴黎世家)的最后一个系列发布会完美谢幕几天后,Kering集团做出了一个让大多数人意想不到的决定:宣布巴黎时尚品牌VETEMENTS的创始人Demna Gvasalia为 BALENCIAGA担任新一任的艺术总监。(图片来源:百度搜索BALENCIAGA)VETEMENTS是Demna Gvasalia与他的兄弟Guram Gvasalia及其他数位好友共同成立。由七人组合成立的设计团队对于当下时装界是及为反感与不满的,短短五年掀起了“丑时尚”的风潮。VETEMENTS的风格偏另类街头,又带有复古感,把超大廓形也玩到了极致。庄主:它最经典的款式应该要数比例失调的超长袖卫衣,但正因为设计不符合主流审美,反而一度被各路明星和博主疯狂追捧。芸友Kisho:现在的互联网环境也把几十年前或者是十几年前的时尚元素或风格等与现在的对比出来,并且时尚品牌也有借鉴过过去的时尚。有人说,时尚是个轮回,但是像这种艺术型创作类从理论上是没有天花板的。以上都是中国过去的元素的借鉴。但我会狭隘认为海外的时尚市场是对我们本土元素的借鉴,而我们本土时尚可能是一种浮躁且急功近利的表现。芸友Kisho:这就很有趣,因为博主和明星本身就不是和主流大众趋同的职业,无论是从公关角度还是从营销传播角度。芸友白泽:我觉得设计师很注重自我表达,刚好遇到追求特立独行的时尚消费者。庄主:浮躁且急功近利我觉得不是本土时尚的现状,而是全球目前的现状。前一段我在追剧《Made in Italy》里面映射了很多意大利时尚史,整个影片像是GUCCI艺术总监Alessandro Michele出品。从中可以看出,GUCCI走的是时尚轮回的复古风,把几十年前的感觉又找回来了。但是尽管Alessandro Michele明显一直在致敬复古和曾经的时尚,在商业上也很成功,我依然无法认可GUCCI现状走的路线。因为已经偏离了根的树不可能茁壮成长。有人认为他对 BALENCIAGA 风格的改变过于激进,难以接受一个带着“VETEMENTS 风格”的 BALENCIAGA;而有的人对他则是大加赞扬,认为 BALENCIAGA 就是需要这样大刀阔斧的改变,Demna Gvasalia的结构、风格、定位都显然让 BALENCIAGA 变得更有活力。 我感觉很多年轻人都是被Kanye West、Rihanna等时尚icon带跑的,并不是因为自己发自内心的认可品牌文化。芸友Kisho:现在的佛系消费者变多了,所以才需要品牌打造自己的私域流量池,这是我之前在社群内听业内人士说的话。芸友白泽:我现在对巴黎世家印象最深的就是那套虚拟服装。芸友Kisho:说到虚拟服装,给我我印象更深,更深的是耐克,阿迪达斯这种品牌,以及3D试衣间还有耐克想要推出的软件。庄主:我后来在展览上看到BALENCIAGA才了解到这是个百年品牌。(图片来源:BALENCIAGA历史服饰)起码在我心里,这才是时尚本商,时尚本来应该有的样子。时尚终究是关乎美,真正的美一定是会给人带来愉悦的。现在很多品牌为了追逐市场的热门元素为了特立独行而与众不同,无关乎美,只为博眼球。芸友Kisho:我认为初创品牌这么做还是比较理解的,但是老牌时尚再这样做就会让人觉得匪夷所思。我会觉得这是高奢品牌想要和我们普通大众进一步接触的方式。因为他们每次推出像松糕鞋那样迥异的产品时,都能在网络上掀起一波热度。庄主:这就涉及了今天话题的第二点。|二|如何构建潮牌文化庄主:关于如何构建潮牌文化问题我总结了以下几点:1.造势——饥饿营销,制造欲望,构建互相具有认同感的文化社群。2.借势——关联大品牌,高密度跨界合作,打造潮款爆品。3.热度——社交媒体引流,持续制造话题。巴黎世家的松糕鞋就属于制造话题引一波热度。芸友Kisho:感觉高知名度的高奢品牌把这几点都玩了一遍。芸友白泽:借势这点让我想到上面庄主提到的SUPREME X LV联名对SUPREME来说倒是很成功,有钱都难买让我印象深刻。庄主:(图片来源:BALENCIGA历史服饰)这本是BALENCIAGA的出身,下面是巴黎世家今年的高定。(图片来源:VOGUE RUNWAY BALENCIAGA 2021高定系列)可以看到高定线跟成衣线的风格一脉相承。风格与原本品牌的风格大相径庭。芸友Kisho:很多奢侈品牌都有自己的历史文化。庄主说的唯美,让我觉得很契合过去的历史背景而初创时的品牌调性。芸友白泽:我觉得庄主对此也不必太耿耿于怀。虽然巴黎世家过于追求市场热度,但很难说这不是时代发展的大势。唯美礼裙在那个时代应该有很多品牌都在做。同质化对于奢侈品牌来说,应该也不是好事。庄主:一旦你的产品热销起来就要让全世界都知道它很火。Instagram是潮流时尚品牌的兵家必争之地。SUPREME自从2013年开设Instagram账户之后,轻松斩获600万粉丝,为其品牌传播打下了坚实的基础。聚焦Instagram集中火力,拥有了话语权,将品牌热度话题一次又一次推向新的高度。(图片来源:SUPREME ins账号截图)现在SUPREME在ins上已经有1300多万粉了。芸友白泽:社交媒体对于现在的品牌宣传也是一个主要阵地。国内的时尚杂志拍封面等等,经常会出现在微博热搜。庄主:对,国内就是上热搜,国外就是拼ins。(图片来源:时尚社交媒体女王宇博Chiara Ferragni截图)国外的时尚社交媒体女王宇博Chiara Ferragni目前的粉丝数有2566万。芸友白泽:这一定是一位时尚品牌必定争取的博主。但影响力这么大的时尚博主,在选择合作品牌的时候,要求应该也不低吧。庄主:我刚查了一下,大表姐粉丝量都超过宇博了。(图片来源:刘雯微博账号截图)芸友白泽:国内的自媒体僵尸粉不知道有多少。芸友Kisho:不全是,我们印象中的社媒数据,很大程度上都是粉丝靠撑起来的,但是社媒数据是评判商业价值的重要来源。芸友白泽:大表姐的微博我没有关注。国内一些微博大V买粉的很多,点赞和评论量和粉丝数差的不是一点。|三|潮牌文化引发的思考庄主:以前从设计、生产、走秀、订货、发货、店铺上新产业链条比较长,以后可能整个这个周期都会压缩到不可想象的短时间内就可以即时完成。(图片来源:BALENCIAGA包)(图片来源:VETEMENTS X DHL联名)我认为巴黎世家模仿宜家的包的案例是抄袭。VETEMENTS X DHL是潮牌跨界合作。关于潮牌见仁见智,我是上了岁数的传统老一辈,可能不太接受新鲜事物,看不得百年奢侈品牌的传统传承被松糕鞋糟蹋摩擦。年轻人可能更愿意拥抱新思想新态度。
Founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion, Imran Amed travels to Paris for the first time since global lockdowns to find designers Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga and Marine Serre exploring provocative strategies toward building a more socially and environmentally conscious fashion industry.
Edurne Baz repasa la singular trayectoria del diseñador Demna Gvasalia, actual, controvertido y exitoso director creativo de la emblemática casa Balenciaga. Hoy nos centramos en Demna Gvasalia, actual director creativo de la emblemática firma Balenciaga y uno de los diseñadores más transgresores, provocadores e influyentes de la industria de la moda. Un espíritu libre y burlón, que se ha permitido el lujo de reinterpretar y, si es menester, dinamitar los códigos clásicos del lujo desde una de las casas más históricas del sector.
Edurne Baz repasa la singular trayectoria del diseñador Demna Gvasalia, actual, controvertido y exitoso director creativo de la emblemática casa Balenciaga. Hoy nos centramos en Demna Gvasalia, actual director creativo de la emblemática firma Balenciaga y uno de los diseñadores más transgresores, provocadores e influyentes de la industria de la moda. Un espíritu libre y burlón, que se ha permitido el lujo de reinterpretar y, si es menester, dinamitar los códigos clásicos del lujo desde una de las casas más históricas del sector.
First presented within Gucci Aria, The Hacker Project merges the iconic silhouettes and codes of Balenciaga and Gucci in unique creations as an exploration on ideas of authenticity and appropriation within the fashion industry. Among the hybrid universe of ready-to-wear and accessories, combining the aesthetics of Creative Directors Demna Gvasalia and Alessandro Michele, emblematic styles come together to create something new.On this special episode of the Gucci Podcast, Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele and Balenciaga Creative Director Demna Gvasalia unveil how The Hacker Project came to life and share their creative visions. They are interviewed by author, critic and Fashion Features Director of AnOther magazine, Alexander Fury.
I stedet for at starte med et klassisk modeshow på en catwalk, begyndte Balenciaga allerede deres show på den røde løber uden halvdelen af gæsterne var klar over det til dette års modeuge i Paris. Et specialproduceret afsnit af The Simpsons tonede frem for øjnene af Justin Bieber, Kim Kardashian og resten af slænget. Den gimmick kommer ovenpå et samarbejde mellem Balenciaga og computerspillet Fortnite. Er det gamle modehus i knæfald for den amerikanske ungdom? Eller spiller chefdesigner Demna Gvasalia i virkeligheden efter præcis de regler, som Cristobal Balenciaga grundlagde imperiet på for over 100 år siden? Gæst: Kristian Hindø-Lings, indkøber og stylist Vært og produktion: Ida GaunøRedaktør: Toke With Musik: Artlist.io
After the conclusion of Paris Fashion Week — the first in-person version of the event since the pandemic took hold in early 2020 — BoF's editor at large Tim Blanks sat down with BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to discuss his reflections on fashion's return to the runway. Designers appeared to come out of lockdown with renewed energy, breathing new life and ideas into their collections. Highlights included Jonathan Anderson's Loewe collection, Extinction Rebellion's talked-about moment during Louis Vuitton and the week's finale, a tribute to the late Alber Elbaz. Still, Blanks said that he doesn't believe fashion has seen the full effects of the pandemic just yet. “I think in a sense everything changed and we haven't processed it yet,” he said. “It's going to take a long time.” On the latest episode of The BoF Podcast, Amed and Blanks explore what fashion learned from its break. Jonathan Anderson's Loewe show leaned on the surreal to expand upon the designer's previous pandemic-era collections and experimented with new themes. It also marked a departure from previous runway show set ups; this year's show was staged in a bare-bones space that highlighted Anderson's sculptural silhouettes. “Of all the designers that we've followed so closely, his response to the pandemic was perhaps the most creative,” said Blanks. “I think it was maybe his best show for Loewe.” The Simpsons' surprise appearance at Balenciaga also provided some levity to the week, with an abbreviated episode of the hit cartoon featuring characters walking in a Balenciaga show. Demna Gvasalia also explored themes of distance with a screening replacing a traditional runway show. Even without the Simpsons' star power, Demna showed a collection that excited buyers and critics alike, particularly in bags and accessories. Climate activist group Extinction Rebellion brought about what was perhaps the most talked-about moment of fashion week. During Louis Vuitton's runway show, an activist stormed the runway carrying a banner that read “Overconsumption = Extinction”, prompting a discussion on if the industry has changed at all during the pandemic. “Maybe the system hasn't changed, but the people who work in the system have been changed, and that's maybe going to change the way the industry interacts,” said Amed. Related Articles: In Paris, Back to Normal or Not? Demna Gvasalia: ‘Couture Is The Most Sustainable Way of Consuming' Fashion's Favourite-Ever Collaboration: Balenciaga and ‘The Simpsons' Join BoF Professional for the analysis and advice you need. Get 30 days for just $1 or explore group subscriptions for your business.
The revival of Balenciaga's long-dormant couture collection was the most anticipated event of the July 2021 haute couture season, and the first since its namesake, Cristobal Balenciaga, shuttered his salon in 1968. BoF's founder and CEO Imran Amed was granted exclusive pre-show access and sat down with Gvasalia for a wide-ranging interview which is featured in the first episode of The BoF Show, now streaming on Bloomberg QuickTake Here, we share the full interview with Gvasalia exclusively on The BoF Podcast. Watch the first episode of The BoF Show, “Disruption: Is Luxury Fashion ready to Change?” Gvasalia speaks of his desire to slow fashion down and produce less while acknowledging that he needs to sell mountains of sneakers in order to sustain a business. He reflects on the industry's need to balance profit with purpose. “The industry … is a huge, gigantic mechanism that needs to feed itself. It is about finding that balance ... People don't want all of that stuff that is being produced. They don't need it … The pandemic gave us the possibility to take a step back and look at it and to understand you don't need all of that.” Gvasalia asserts that there's nothing radical about gender-fluid fashion — ”I just make clothes and then whoever wants to wear it, they wear it. I feel like talking about gender is like talking about ... the day before yesterday's news” — while reflecting on the influence of his upbringing in Georgia during the time of the Soviet Union. “Officially there are no gays in Georgia, so obviously it was a taboo subject for me when I was growing up there … I've been more terrorised by homophobia than the actual civil war. So I feel like it is in me ... [bringing the topic of gender identity into mainstream fashion and culture] is almost like a therapy.” Gvasalia outlines his mission in couture — and explains why, despite the naysayers, couture is as relevant as ever. “My mission in couture is to actually give it a second life. I heard people saying couture is dead. Who needs it? ... Couture for me has something very modern in its concept because we only produce what somebody orders. This is like the most sustainable way of consuming.” Watch the full episode of The BoF Show here. Related Articles: Disruption: Is Luxury Fashion Ready To Change? The BoF Podcast: The Fate of the Physical Runway Show Chanel's Last Virtual Fashion Show? Why Big Brands Are Skipping Fashion Week Join BoF Professional for the analysis and advice you need. Get 30 days for just $1 or explore group subscriptions for your business.
Dans ce nouvel épisode, j'ai le plaisir de discuter avec Bemba sur cette question : Demna Gvasalia est-il en train de tuer Balenciaga ? Avec le retour des collections Haute Couture, le directeur artistique attire l'attention de tous les journalistes de mode. Réputé pour avoir créer une ambiance streetwear chez Balenciaga, son travail au sein de la maison divise l'opinion publique. Arrivé en 2015, Demna rompt avec les codes classiques de la maison. Coup de génie ou supercherie ? J'en discute donc avec Bemba. Passionné par la mode depuis son enfance, il nous partage sa vision et son opinion sur le travail de Demna chez Balenciaga. Je vous invite donc à écouter le neuvième épisode de ce podcast : Demna Gvasalia est-il en train de tuer Balenciaga ? Pour rejoindre Bemba: sur Instagram ://www.instagram.com/itsallaboutbe/ Sur Twitter https://twitter.com/itsallaboutbe_ sur Tik Tok https://vm.tiktok.com/ZMRuEJ5Fe/ Pour rejoindre Têtes de Mode sur les réseaux sociaux : https://www.instagram.com/tetesdemode/ https://twitter.com/ModeTetes https://vm.tiktok.com/ZMebHuY4E/
A Different Tweed: Fashion Conversations with Bronwyn Cosgrave
Alexander Fury is the men's fashion critic of the Financial Times newspaper and the fashion features director of AnOther magazine. He comes back on the show to discuss being front row at what he describes as the “first big return of physical fashion shows.” That is, the live presentations showcasing the Spring/Summer 2022 men's ready-to-wear collections and the Autumn/Winter ‘21 Paris couture. Alex offers a rare insight to the critically acclaimed debut of Azzedine Alaïa's creative director, Pieter Mulier, and also the extraordinary reveal of Demna Gvasalia's inaugural Balenciaga couture collection. This includes details of Gvasalia's olfactory collaboration with the Norwegian artist, Sissel Tolass. Alex's view from Venice includes his thoughts on how Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello and Valentino's Pier Paolo Piccioli “interacted” with the art world. Amidst all of this, he talks about the sort of Covid-19 protocols he encountered during fashion's return to “business as usual” plus the reported demise of the glossy magazine “super editor.” His ultimate takeaway? “The couture shows very much sent a message about the resilience of fashion,” states Alex. “And they sent a message about the kind of joy of fashion, the joy of dressing up. When people ask for a justification for the existence of couture….you know, couture is really about joy, and about exuberance, and creating clothes that can really make people dream. And I think that was a message that you drew away from these shows. Absolutely.” Please rate, review and subscribe to A Different Tweed. Share it with your friends. Thanks for listening!
Od spolupráce H&M x Margiela, cez kolekcie YZY Season až po aktuálny release albumu Donda. Čo všetko priniesol vzťah Kaníka s Demnom? Podpor nás na Patreone: patreon.com/ftapes Sleduj náš Instagram: kazety_ftapes
Čo robí Gruzínec v season o Belgicku? Valcuje aktuálnu módu a okrem toho má vyštudovanú legendárnu Antverpskú Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Podpor nás na Patreone: patreon.com/ftapes Sleduj náš Instagram: kazety_ftapes
Rachel's back from Atlanta with an epic review of Kanye's Demna Gvasalia-directed Donda listening party/performance art piece. We're also discussing The Weeknd's vertiginous Celine boots, and Sam gives us the details on Frank Oceans's new luxury brand, Homer. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Quem diria que a Olimpíada de Tóquio 2021 seria o cenário para tanta moda. Entre os maiores esportistas do mundo, houve espaço também para discussões sobre o quanto um uniforme pode ser sexista, tendências de looks das skatistas e até um convite para você aprender a fazer tricô. Neste episódio, a gente fala dos maiores hits fashionistas dos jogos olímpicos. E ainda: a introdução ao novo álbum de Kanye West, com colaboração de Demna Gvasalia, da Balenciaga; a nova marca de Frank Ocean; as novidades sobre a New York Fashion Week e muito mais! Montagem e publicação: Compasso Coolab Este episódio usou trechos das músicas Nobody, de Mitski; Rebel Girl, de Bikini Kill; Remix de Bach com Baile de Favela, da apresentacão de Rebeca Andrade nos Jogos Olímpicos de Tóquio 2021; Sk8er Boi, de Avril Lavigne; Lost, de Frank Ocean; Mine, de Gustaf; e The Cure, de Lady Gaga.
Rachel's back from Atlanta with an epic review of Kanye's Demna Gvasalia-directed Donda listening party/performance art piece. We're also discussing The Weeknd's vertiginous Celine boots, and Sam gives us the details on Frank Oceans's new luxury brand, Homer. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Kanye's new Balenciaga outfit feels like something out of a wrestling ring or comic book or runway. Check out what might be his new outfit for the August 5th DONDA release party, designed by Demna Gvasalia. #Kanye #KanyeWest #Donda #Gemna #Balenciaga #Yeezus If you'd like to watch this video, then check out our YouTube channel. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Kanye's longtime friend and collaborator is Demna Gvasalia, Head of Balenciaga. In a surprise twist, Demna will creative direct whatever Kanye is doing for the DONDA Album Release event on August 5th. Stay tuned! #Kanye #KanyeWest #Donda #DemnaGvasalia If you'd like to watch this video, then check out our YouTube channel. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
No décimo sexto episódio colocamos o moletom azul rasgado da Balenciaga no centro do nosso debate. A peça, que virou meme recentemente por seu preço - quase 18 mil reais- nos trouxe reflexões sobre a história da marca, de revolução, oferta e demanda, mercado, storytelling e branding. E também sobre o estilista Demna Gvasalia e seu background, assim como o marketplace Farfetch e sua história de sucesso, curadoria , inovação e tecnologia. E discutimos moda, muita moda. Porque moda importa. Patrocínio: DvoskinKulkes @dvoskinkulkes http://www.dvoskinkulkes.com.br Água da Pedra @aguadapedra Apoio: Steal the Look http://www.stealthelook.com.br@stealthelook Trilha: Sonora Trilhas @sonoratrilhas Edição de áudio e vídeo: Bárbara Saccomori @barbarasaccomori
For episode 8 of season 4, Suzy brings you a Couture special. Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga, discusses his first Couture collection for the house and the revival of Balenciaga Haute Couture. In fact it's the 50th couture collection for the brand, because Cristóbal Balenciaga's final show was his 49th. Fifty-three years after the original Balenciaga salon was closed, the company's haute couture has been revived for Autumn Winter 2021/22. The show was presented in Avenue George V with a famous modern audience, with François-Henri Pinault of the Kering luxury group, and hats by Philip Treacy. Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfashEdited by Tim Thornton @timwthorntonMusic by @joergzuberGraphics by Paul Wallis To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Moda do it yourself? Il concetto sembra quasi un controsenso, se pensiamo che il lusso è per definizione unico e non replicabile. Ma la pandemia, come spiega bene Samira Larouci nell'articolo pubblicato sul numero di giugno di Vogue Italia, ha aperto nuovi canali di comunicazione tra i brand e i clienti e fornito chiavi di lettura diverse del senso stesso della moda. Da Simon Porte Jacquemus a Jonathan Anderson, molti creativi hanno condiviso pattern e suggerimenti con i seguaci dei loro brand, mentre Demna Gvasalia di Balenciaga ha collaborato con i fan della band tedesca Rammstein per una capsule collection. Testo di Samira Larouci, voce e a cura di Elisa Pervinca Bellini
Ya saben (o deberían) que en este podcast se odia con alegría. Hasta que nos minan la moral. Entonces odiamos con la fuerza de los mares. Nos pasa con ciertas actitudes negacionistas y redundantes en aquello de "cualquier tiempo pasado fue mejor", con quienes perpetúan esa mirada/lectura viejuna, caduca y cansina de la moda. Esos del "diseño ensoñador", "el look favorecedor" o "el Balenciaga bueno es el de antes". Supérenlo de una vez: Alexander McQueen está muerto. Y Galliano resulta mucho más interesante desde que Victorio y Lucchino ya no pueden acusarle de que les copia. En serio, si te dice Maria Grazia Chiuri, Alessandro Michele y Demna Gvasalia son lo peor, no te lo/la/le folles. Que ya, sobre gustos no hay nada escrito y tal, pero como proclaman Sonic Youth al principio de este episodio: "Ahh, let that shit die and find out the new goal". Amén a eso.Jitazo de apertura: Sonic Youth - Kill Yr Idols
We talk about Demna Gvasalia and the Pre-Collection Winter 21 where he aims to be more sustainable and also Promote Pride. --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app
人手一件他的設計款,但你真的了解他嗎?巴黎世家現任設計師Demna Gvasalia
00:24min - “Nothing is never really new” ~ Demna Gvasalia -30:35min - Gastankündigung für nächste Woche-32:00min - Portrait: Carpe Diem-48:00min - Musikempfehlungen der Woche (feat. Kynda Gray)-50:40min - Last Cops Dan: Maison Rosè Wool/Nylon Coat, Kynda Gray LP, Giacometti Buch, Kostas Murkudis Buch, Vito Acconci Buch, Mark Rothko Buch, Donald Judd “Writings”- Interviews with terrible men“ Buch, Soviet Bus Stops Buch, Franz Kafka “Letters to Milena”-01:01:00min - Seasonal Deadline: Diskussion
SEASON 4 IS HERE! We hope that everyone enjoyed the new theme song, and we hope that you're all excited for an excellent season of podcasting! John and Sol ring in the new season the only way they know how, by answering some questions from the audience! Listen in as we talk about our favorite FW21 shows, where to shop for clothes, and our favorite spots to take fitpics! Also included in a designer spotlight on Demna Gvasalia by John! Thank you so much to everyone for listening, so excited to be starting up season 4!
'Don't care about what other people think of you', Creative Director / Designer / Artist / Comedian PZ Opassuksatit tells Writer / Editor / Broadcaster Lara Johnson-Wheeler. 'I give them what they want, but adding my universe.' The work of PZ Opassuksatit has been described by Highsnobiety as 'absurd, bizarre, bonkers and ironic'. The Thailand-born Paris-based fashion slashie sells design and concept through her company, PZToday. Her object-based wares include a champagne glass candle, a necktie indicating whether you're single or taken and a loo seat scarf designed to reveal the life of a toilet - so you can see Highsnobiety's point. After finishing studying at Institut Français de la Mode in 2015, PZ secured a role in visual design at Vetements. In this episode of The Fashion Slashie: A ClickerMe Podcast, she tells Lara of the freedom she had at the role and how she secured it simply through emailing Demna Gvasalia. This year alone, PZ has collaborated with Helmut Lang and was named one of 2020's New Wave Creatives by the British Fashion Council as part of the Fashion Awards. PZ and Lara discuss her collaborative work for the podcast; installations at Dover Street Market and her book — a partnership with IDEA — which features contributions from Martine Rose, Kim Chi and Virgil Abloh. ClickerMe is the fashion network, helping creatives connect and collaborate better. https://clickerme.com/ The Fashion Slashie: A ClickerMe podcast has been recorded remotely, due to circumstances inflicted by the COVID-19 pandemic. Interviewer: Lara Johnson-Wheeler Producer, Editor: Tom Zambaz
Did the fashion industry just wait all summer to then drop a ton of juicy stories this week? Seems like it. With so much going on before Fashion Month, we wanted to take this episode to catch up on all the exciting Style Snacks before we go into show mode. First up, we say goodbye to Keeping Up with the Kardashians (well not really since new episodes will still air in 2021). Then we move on to Influencer updates with Danielle Bernstein coming under fire (again) and Man Repeller dropping the “Man.” Next, things have spiraled out of control between LVMH and Tiffany in the most bougie lawsuit way possible. LVMH also made big designer announcements this week with the luxury conglomerate ending their relationship with Nicholas Kirkwood and then appointing Kim Jones the Artistic Director of Fendi. In other designer news, Demna Gvasalia launched Balenciaga’s channel with Apple Music by curating a 13 hour playlist and a product drop that looks suspiciously like a 2019 Vetements collection. Hmm… Marc Jacobs launched Heaven. Prada and Adidas Superstars are already sold out, creating even more hype as we head into their Spring 2021 digital presentation and Raf Simons debut. Saint Laurent captured a perfect blend of video and catwalk for their Men’s show – hello runway ON THE EIFFEL TOWER! And finally, the Paris show schedule has been announced, but some big names are missing… www.runwaywalkscurrenttalks.com https://www.instagram.com/runwaywalkscurrenttalks/ https://twitter.com/RunwayTalks https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCW7W32h_5l7nnlrL1vazjlw/featured
Die Themen der Folge: Die Markenstrategie der Luxusbrands und wieso du dich nicht auf Intrigen einlassen solltest, wenn du zur Legende werden willst. Mit 27 Jahren eröffnete die Sängerin Coco Chanel mit geliehenem Geld ein Hutgeschäft in Paris. Mit einer nicht zu stillenden Lust am Streit und an der Provokation, schaffte sie es ganz nach oben. Sie befreite Frauen vom Korsett – zumindest sagte sie das, auch wenn zuvor bereits andere korsettfreie Kleider populär gemacht hatten. Den bis heute meistverkauften Duft der Welt, Chanel No 5, erklärte sie zum ersten Parfum, das nicht nach einer Blume roch. Mittlerweile schien ihr keine Behauptung zu groß zu sein. Der Erfolg gab ihr immer wieder Recht. Bei all dem Swag liegen Vergleiche mit der Hiphop-Szene nah. Und so geht es in der neuen Folge nicht nur um Kool Savas, Capital Bra und Lil Pump, sondern natürlich auch um Virgil Abloh und Demna Gvasalia. Der eine wurde durch Off-White zu Louis Vuittons Chefdesigner, der andere durch Vetements zum Art Director bei Balenciaga. Hiphop definiert, was cool ist und Luxusmarken haben das verstanden. Über die Hälfte der Gucci-Verkäufe gehen heute auf Millennials zurück, die Gen Z ist die am schnellsten wachsende Käuferschicht. Und guess what: Auch das hat mit Hiphop zu tun. Außerdem in dieser Folge: Phillip und Tobias antworten auf eure Sprachnachricht. Thema: Business Influencer Dan Lok! Lrnings Das Prinzip "Luxus": Wenn du dich rar machst, steigt dein Preis. Wenn du eine etablierte Marke jung halten willst, sind Kollaborationen dein Hyaluron. Wenn deine Marke legendär werden soll, kümmer dich um die Legendenbildung. Streite dich nicht um das größte Stück vom Kuchen, back mehr Kuchen. Produkte müssen auf dem Fundament einer klaren Markenstrategie stehen. Wenn du eine neue Zielgruppe begeistern willst, finde die Schnittmenge zwischen deiner Markenidentität und der Kultur dieser Gruppe. Es ist super, wenn etwas knapp ist. Aber achte darauf, Menschen nicht auszuschließen, sondern einzuladen. Quellen Louis Vuitton: https://orange.handelsblatt.com/artikel/54738 https://www.handelsblatt.com/arts_und_style/lifestyle/blick-in-die-luxuswerkstatt-warum-die-handwerkskunst-von-louis-vuitton-auch-heute-noch-fasziniert/25506920.html?ticket=ST-499590-Vqkwb6FEhbCQQwYFcDJn-ap3 https://fashionunited.ch/nachrichten/business/was-donald-trump-von-bernard-arnault-lvmh-lernen-kann/2017030111120 https://www.welt.de/print-wams/article119342/Hoch-die-Taschen.html https://www.elle.de/louis-vuitton-pochette-metis https://www.elle.de/louis-vuitton-pochette-metis https://www.capital.de/leben/6-erfolgsgeheimnisse-von-louis-vuitton Chanel: https://fashionunited.de/nachrichten/mode/chanel-was-sie-ueber-das-modehaus-wissen-sollten/2020040735170 https://www.carlmarie.de/magazin/mode/die-groessten-mode-designer-coco-chanel/ https://whoswho.de/bio/coco-chanel.html Gucci: https://www.fastcompany.com/40517585/meet-the-man-who-made-millennials-fall-in-love-with-gucci https://www.brand-trust.de/de/artikel/2019/gucci-mut-markenfuehrung.php https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2017/11/16/guccis-cracked-the-luxury-code-with-millennials-thanks-to-its-dream-team-of-bizzarri-and-michele/ https://unitymarketingonline.com/guccis-dream-team-bizzarri-michele-cracked-millennial-code-luxury/ https://www.welt.de/icon/article150858130/Wie-Gucci-zum-begehrtesten-Label-der-Welt-wurde.html https://www.bain.com/contentassets/8df501b9f8d6442eba00040246c6b4f9/bain_digest__luxury_goods_worldwide_market_study_fall_winter_2018.pdf https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/ar/Documents/Consumer_and_Industrial_Products/Global-Powers-of-Luxury-Goods-abril-2019.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V_MEpiPYTw https://youtu.be/bkSdH6POZkg Steve Stoute – The Tanning of America
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In this episode, we talk to Ana Andjelic, a Strategy Executive and Doctor of Sociology working on business strategy, marketing, and organizational transformation. Ana has worked with top global advertising agencies and has also worked on the brand-side as a chief marketing executive. In the context of the collaborative economy boom of early 2010, Ana wrote thoughtful reflections on the Guardian and other news outlets. She recently came back to our attention for her brand new newsletter “The Sociology of Business” where she explores the transformation of retail, modern brand building, and how new social and cultural patterns impact the business. We talk about the changing relationship between brands and consumers, what role culture plays in this transformation, and how technology can help - but never fully replace - human interaction. Our conversation also included in-depth reflections about how brands are reacting to the current context of COVID-19 and about the increasing need for empathy and social responsibility in these turbulent times. Read more on our Medium story here https://stories.platformdesigntoolkit.com/ Here are some important links from the conversation: > Ana's insightful newsletter “The Sociology of Business”, https://andjelicaaa.substack.com/> Ana's Twitter: @andjelicaaa Brands mentioned that are engaging closely with customer communities:> Glossier, an example of a platform for the community activity that is happening around the beauty products: https://www.glossier.com/, https://intothegloss.com/> Rapha for cycling communities: https://www.rapha.cc/ > Track smith running brand: https://www.tracksmith.com/> Outdoor voices:https://www.outdoorvoices.com/ Other topics mentioned:> Benedict Anderson, Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism, https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/399136.Imagined_Communities> Some concepts from Japanese culture inspiring the west: Omotenashi, Kintsugi, Wabi-Sabi> Demna Gvasalia, Georgian fashion designer, currently the creative director of Balenciaga https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia Music by liosound.Recorded on March 27th 2020
After her move to New York City and integration into the city’s creative sphere, Amrit Sidhu has made a name for herself as an in demand DJ and creative consultant. The Australian-born DJ has taken her musically trained talent to sets for big names like Dior, Fendi, Jorja Smith, and Tommy Genesis. Amrit came through to the studio stowed in Noah’s suitcase from Paris Fashion Week, ready to discuss the quick hits along with PFW’s top shows and parties. This week’s highlights start on a low note with the closing of Opening Ceremony’s stores following their acquisition by New Guards Group (2:43). The cast reminisce on the retailer’s legacy and their loss of sample sales and discounts while Amrit recalls her first big move in the city as being booked by the brand. Amrit’s only building more momentum as she continues to work with Nike. She got her hands on the Comme des Garcons Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 95s without having a clue about their price (5:46). Although traces of a new CDG Nike shoe were absent from PFW, plenty of fire pieces were spotted on the runway (7:32). Noah caught on to trends such as tailoring, neck pieces ranging from thin silks to thick scarves, and winter shorts. The new sacai Nikes are making noise without a doubt, stirring up mixed reviews with people falling strong on either end. Amrit adored every Jacquemus bag and shoe, and was thoroughly impressed by the entire show. Jacquemus isn’t the only one turning 30; Nike has announced the new Air Max 2090 in celebration of Air Max 90’s 30th year (12:11). Jian stands alone on the shoe, which Noah and Amrit plead the fifth on, and considers setting a New Year resolution of only wearing GR’s. You heard it first here. Fashion Week FW20 is almost over, and the world has been witness to an impressive lineup of shoe related news during the past few weeks including the release of Dior Jordan Lows, GmbH ASICS, Wales Bonner x adidas, and Raf Simons’ announcement for making in-house shoes (17:23). In other news, Offset announced that “Culture III” will be Migos’ last album, but that’s up for interpretation. The rapper also dropped his new clothing line Laundered Works Corp. at PFW with creative director and designer Chaz A. Jordan (25:31). The quick hits end on fashion, with news about Jean-Paul Gualtier’s retirement and Demna Gvasalia’s decision to bring Balenciaga back to haute couture (26:10). The Question of the Week (QOTW) asked listeners “Who had the best PFW collection?” and Noah handed it to Bode and Lanvin while Amrit listed Jacquemus, Undercover, and Casablanca (26:42). This episode introduced a special segment of “PFW Lightning Round” where Amrit and Noah answered with their top shows, parties, and things that “hit different” as quickly as possible (30:53). Before jumping into “What’d You Cop,” Noah announces the new Kiko Kostadinov mules that debuted during PFW as the “Mule of the Week” (36:11). Amrit was gifted a pair of black CDG Homme Plus Nike Air Max 95s and copped pieces from Prada and Bottega Veneta (36:55). Be on the lookout for the next QOTW which will be posted on Highsnobiety’s Instagram, and leave a voicemail on The Dropcast hotline at 833-HIGHSNOB (833-444-4766) for a chance to be featured in a future episode. Relevant Links: Opening Ceremony Is Closing All Its Stores in 2020 The COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 95 Drops Tomorrow The Best Pieces We Saw at Paris Fashion Week Nike Brings the Air Max 90 Into the Future With the Air Max 2090 BAPE’s Take on Dr. Martens’ 1460 Comes With a BAPE STA Logo The Best FW20 Footwear Unveiled at Fashion Week Offset Reveals ‘Culture III’ Is the “Last Chapter” for Migos Demna Gvasalia Confirms Balenciaga Is Returning to Haute Couture Jean-Paul Gaultier Has Announced His Retirement Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
After her move to New York City and integration into the city’s creative sphere, Amrit Sidhu has made a name for herself as an in demand DJ and creative consultant. The Australian-born DJ has taken her musically trained talent to sets for big names like Dior, Fendi, Jorja Smith, and Tommy Genesis. Amrit came through to the studio stowed in Noah’s suitcase from Paris Fashion Week, ready to discuss the quick hits along with PFW’s top shows and parties. This week’s highlights start on a low note with the closing of Opening Ceremony’s stores following their acquisition by New Guards Group (2:43). The cast reminisce on the retailer’s legacy and their loss of sample sales and discounts while Amrit recalls her first big move in the city as being booked by the brand. Amrit’s only building more momentum as she continues to work with Nike. She got her hands on the Comme des Garcons Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 95s without having a clue about their price (5:46). Although traces of a new CDG Nike shoe were absent from PFW, plenty of fire pieces were spotted on the runway (7:32). Noah caught on to trends such as tailoring, neck pieces ranging from thin silks to thick scarves, and winter shorts. The new sacai Nikes are making noise without a doubt, stirring up mixed reviews with people falling strong on either end. Amrit adored every Jacquemus bag and shoe, and was thoroughly impressed by the entire show. Jacquemus isn’t the only one turning 30; Nike has announced the new Air Max 2090 in celebration of Air Max 90’s 30th year (12:11). Jian stands alone on the shoe, which Noah and Amrit plead the fifth on, and considers setting a New Year resolution of only wearing GR’s. You heard it first here. Fashion Week FW20 is almost over, and the world has been witness to an impressive lineup of shoe related news during the past few weeks including the release of Dior Jordan Lows, GmbH ASICS, Wales Bonner x adidas, and Raf Simons’ announcement for making in-house shoes (17:23). In other news, Offset announced that “Culture III” will be Migos’ last album, but that’s up for interpretation. The rapper also dropped his new clothing line Laundered Works Corp. at PFW with creative director and designer Chaz A. Jordan (25:31). The quick hits end on fashion, with news about Jean-Paul Gualtier’s retirement and Demna Gvasalia’s decision to bring Balenciaga back to haute couture (26:10). The Question of the Week (QOTW) asked listeners “Who had the best PFW collection?” and Noah handed it to Bode and Lanvin while Amrit listed Jacquemus, Undercover, and Casablanca (26:42). This episode introduced a special segment of “PFW Lightning Round” where Amrit and Noah answered with their top shows, parties, and things that “hit different” as quickly as possible (30:53). Before jumping into “What’d You Cop,” Noah announces the new Kiko Kostadinov mules that debuted during PFW as the “Mule of the Week” (36:11). Amrit was gifted a pair of black CDG Homme Plus Nike Air Max 95s and copped pieces from Prada and Bottega Veneta (36:55). Be on the lookout for the next QOTW which will be posted on Highsnobiety’s Instagram, and leave a voicemail on The Dropcast hotline at 833-HIGHSNOB (833-444-4766) for a chance to be featured in a future episode. Relevant Links: Opening Ceremony Is Closing All Its Stores in 2020 The COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 95 Drops Tomorrow The Best Pieces We Saw at Paris Fashion Week Nike Brings the Air Max 90 Into the Future With the Air Max 2090 BAPE’s Take on Dr. Martens’ 1460 Comes With a BAPE STA Logo The Best FW20 Footwear Unveiled at Fashion Week Offset Reveals ‘Culture III’ Is the “Last Chapter” for Migos Demna Gvasalia Confirms Balenciaga Is Returning to Haute Couture Jean-Paul Gaultier Has Announced His Retirement Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Walter Van Beirendonck, the most defiant and radical member of the Antwerp Six, is the greatest fashion designer in the world according to your host, so to have him on is a beautiful gift, but also slightly nerve-racking. The two of them discuss Walter's most recent projects like the new exhibition he designed for the Outsider Art Museum in Amsterdam and his ongoing work with Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons. Walter also reminisces about the times he and his fellow Antwerp Six members and Martin Margiela went on shopping sprees and travelled to Japan. Since Raf Simons, Demna Gvasalia and Craig Green used to be Walter's interns, he explains his selection method. And he talks about his approach as the head of the Antwerp Fashion Academy. For more information on The Most go to www.knotoryus.com For more information on WOEST - Willem Van Genk designed by Walter Van Beirendonck go here For more information on The Royal Academy of Fine Arts - Antwerp Fashion Department go here For more Walter Van Beirendonck go here
Walter Van Beirendonck, the most defiant and radical member of the Antwerp Six, is the greatest fashion designer in the world according to your host, so to have him on is a beautiful gift, but also slightly nerve-racking. The two of them discuss Walter's most recent projects like the new exhibition he designed for the Outsider Art Museum in Amsterdam and his ongoing work with Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons. Walter also reminisces about the times he and his fellow Antwerp Six members and Martin Margiela went on shopping sprees and travelled to Japan. Since Raf Simons, Demna Gvasalia and Craig Green used to be Walter's interns, he explains his selection method. And he talks about his approach as the head of the Antwerp Fashion Academy. For more information on The Most go to www.knotoryus.com For more information on WOEST - Willem Van Genk designed by Walter Van Beirendonck go here For more information on The Royal Academy of Fine Arts - Antwerp Fashion Department go here For more Walter Van Beirendonck go here
Cette saison, Demna Gvasalia, le directeur artistique de Balenciaga, a présenté des silhouettes aux épaules très très renforcées, complètement exagérées. Agressives même. Ça ressemble beaucoup plus…
En esta segunda parte sobre el diseño de vanguardia, les hablamos sobre como seis jóvenes graduados de la Real Academia de Bellas Artes de Bélgica se lanzaron a una aventura atravesando Europa en una vagoneta hasta Londres en el 1986, logrando así catapultar a su país como una ciudad importante del diseño emergente en Europa. Los seis de Amberes no solo son una leyenda, son los guías con un mapa muy bien trazado para futuras generaciones de diseñadores belgas, los cuales dieron pie a los mas reconocidos abanderados de su país como lo son hoy en día Raf Simons y Demna Gvasalia, ambos llevándolos al éxito profesional como directores creativos en Dior y Balenciaga respectivamente.Uno no es igual al resto, pero juntos con una inocencia pura de la juventud lograron capturar la atención y vender sus diseños desconstruidos a titanes del buen vestir como Barneys New York. Entérate mas sobre la moda belga en esta segunda entrega sobre el diseño de vanguardia en la moda.Comentanos que tal te pareció esta primera parte y cual/es es/son tus diseñadores de vanguardia favoritos, colecciones o hasta editoriales.
This week we take a deep dive into Demna Gvasalia's exit from Vetements, and examine the New Silhouette taking shape in fashion: enormous, voluminous clothing. We also discuss the three stories we spent our summers working on: Sam's Lil Uzi Vert fitspalooza, Rachel's Grace Wales Bonner opus, and Noah's Kapital odyssey. Sam on Lil Uzi: https://www.gq.com/story/lil-uzi-vert-fit-pic-profile Rachel on Grace Wales Bonner: https://www.gq.com/story/grace-wales-bonner-interview Noah on Kapital: https://www.gq.com/story/kapital-denim-is-a-japanese-paradise Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
This week we take a deep dive into Demna Gvasalia's exit from Vetements, and examine the New Silhouette taking shape in fashion: enormous, voluminous clothing. We also discuss the three stories we spent our summers working on: Sam's Lil Uzi Vert fitspalooza, Rachel's Grace Wales Bonner opus, and Noah's Kapital odyssey. Sam on Lil Uzi: https://www.gq.com/story/lil-uzi-vert-fit-pic-profile Rachel on Grace Wales Bonner: https://www.gq.com/story/grace-wales-bonner-interview Noah on Kapital: https://www.gq.com/story/kapital-denim-is-a-japanese-paradise Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
The RealReal is facing authentication allegations, Dior is "deeply sorry," ThirdLove's workplace is allegedly toxic, and Demna Gvasalia is leaving Vetements. Come hang out! Instagram: @popfashionpodcast Twitter: @JustPopFashion Lisa’s Twitter: @lisatella Kaarin’s Twitter: @truetostyle
Demna Gvasalia, A magazine curated by, Virgil Abloh x Nike See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Live in London at The Hoxton Hotel Martine shares her thoughts on “hype”; working for Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga and the influences of her youth.
Live in London at The Hoxton Hotel Martine shares her thoughts on “hype”; working for Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga and the influences of her youth.
Inhaltsverzeichnis:00:23min - “Ich brauch’ eine Roli, denn ich hab keine Zeit.” ~ Sierra Kid (Polizei)09:51min - Welche Stadt spiegelt deinen Charakter wieder ?14:14min - Sollte Balenciaga Menswear unter Demna Gvasalia unter Balenciaga Homme laufen?24:45min - Last Cop von Dan: weiße Levi’s 501 Jeans, DVD Dior und Ich, The Last Conspiracy Boots42:51min - Brand-Support, obwohl richtiges Piece noch nicht dabei?56:08min - Story der Woche von Yannick: Trip nach London: Empfehlungen, Stores und Eindrücke01:07:07min - Porträt: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC01:14:35min - Warum wurde die Ära Calvin Klein 205W39NYC by Raf Simons beendet?
It’s hard to believe that a $1.49 bag made entirely of polypropylene could be so influential. So much so that in 2017 Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga, introduced a $2,145 version in leather that set the internet ablaze. Writer and host Sachin Bhola investigates IKEA's Frakta bag. He speaks to a handful of sources to examine the bag’s origins, its appropriation by the fashion world, the resurgence of everyday totes, and its continued popularity to get to the heart of how the IKEA bag mysteriously became one of the most relevant products of our time. First is a conversation with Iina Vuorivirta, an in-house designer at IKEA, who recounts the bag's beginnings. Next, Jackie Skye Kim, the former associate fashion director of Barneys New York, speaks to the moment function gave way to form through the lens of Balenciaga's Gvasalia. Then, Michael Cherman of Chinatown Market talks about the Frakta-inspired cap he produced in collaboration with Pleasures and discusses the bag's modern-day reimagining, including Virgil Abloh's take on it. Listen to the full episode above and stay tuned for new episodes of Why It's Cool each week. For more, check out last week's episode on how Dickies made trend-proof trousers. Director of Editorial Video and Production, North AmericaJ. Andrew KeeganDirector of EditorialJian DeleonProducer and Editor Sonia ManaliliHostSachin BholaSpecial ThanksIina Vuorivirta Jackie Skye Kim Michael Cherman Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
It’s hard to believe that a $1.49 bag made entirely of polypropylene could be so influential. So much so that in 2017 Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga, introduced a $2,145 version in leather that set the internet ablaze. Writer and host Sachin Bhola investigates IKEA's Frakta bag. He speaks to a handful of sources to examine the bag’s origins, its appropriation by the fashion world, the resurgence of everyday totes, and its continued popularity to get to the heart of how the IKEA bag mysteriously became one of the most relevant products of our time. First is a conversation with Iina Vuorivirta, an in-house designer at IKEA, who recounts the bag's beginnings. Next, Jackie Skye Kim, the former associate fashion director of Barneys New York, speaks to the moment function gave way to form through the lens of Balenciaga's Gvasalia. Then, Michael Cherman of Chinatown Market talks about the Frakta-inspired cap he produced in collaboration with Pleasures and discusses the bag's modern-day reimagining, including Virgil Abloh's take on it. Listen to the full episode above and stay tuned for new episodes of Why It's Cool each week. For more, check out last week's episode on how Dickies made trend-proof trousers. Director of Editorial Video and Production, North AmericaJ. Andrew KeeganDirector of EditorialJian DeleonProducer and Editor Sonia ManaliliHostSachin BholaSpecial ThanksIina Vuorivirta Jackie Skye Kim Michael Cherman Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
On this episode of Highsnobiety’s latest podcast Why It’s Cool, we chart the transformation of Crocs from the practical footwear choice of chefs and nurses everywhere to the ironically cool slip-on beloved by Demna Gvasalia and plenty of others in the fashion industry. Host Lia McGarrigle is joined by Crocs’ own Michelle Poole, Rob Cristofaro and Treis Hill of Crocs collaborator Alife, and Brian Trunzo of trend forecaster WGSN to discuss all things related to the world’s coolest uncool thing. Together they trace the Crocs brand’s nautical beginnings, mapping exactly how the shoe’s comfort and practicality won over legions of fans despite an almost universal agreement that the slip-on was the ugliest shoe ever made, and show how fashion’s embrace of Crocs was almost inevitable. Despite his personal revulsion toward Crocs, Trunzo explains how the brand’s rise fits into the ugly sneaker trend and how it reflects wider changes in how we see ourselves in society. The Alife guys reveal how their Crocs collab was a “fuck you” to the streetwear market. And Poole tells us that, while Crocs knows full well you don’t like its shoes, it simply doesn’t care. Listen to the full episode above and stay tuned for a new episode of Why It’s Cool next week. In case you missed it, the second episode of ‘Why It’s Cool’ explores why cacti are having a pop-culture moment. Director of Editorial Video and Production, North America: J. Andrew Keegan Editorial Director: Jian DeLeon Host: Lia McGarrigle Producer/Editor: Sonia Manalili Guests: Brian Trunzo, Rob Cristofaro, Michelle Poole Source 1: [Global News]. (2018, June 1). “Are ugly shoes this summer’s hottest fashion trend?” Retrieved from https://globalnews.ca/video/4247126/are-ugly-shoes-this-summers-hottest-fashion-trend Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
On this episode of Highsnobiety’s latest podcast Why It’s Cool, we chart the transformation of Crocs from the practical footwear choice of chefs and nurses everywhere to the ironically cool slip-on beloved by Demna Gvasalia and plenty of others in the fashion industry. Host Lia McGarrigle is joined by Crocs’ own Michelle Poole, Rob Cristofaro and Treis Hill of Crocs collaborator Alife, and Brian Trunzo of trend forecaster WGSN to discuss all things related to the world’s coolest uncool thing. Together they trace the Crocs brand’s nautical beginnings, mapping exactly how the shoe’s comfort and practicality won over legions of fans despite an almost universal agreement that the slip-on was the ugliest shoe ever made, and show how fashion’s embrace of Crocs was almost inevitable. Despite his personal revulsion toward Crocs, Trunzo explains how the brand’s rise fits into the ugly sneaker trend and how it reflects wider changes in how we see ourselves in society. The Alife guys reveal how their Crocs collab was a “fuck you” to the streetwear market. And Poole tells us that, while Crocs knows full well you don’t like its shoes, it simply doesn’t care. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
We’re talking all things Paris Fashion Week. We're going to cogitate on the week’s best fashions – the who, the what, the where, the wow. We’ll hear from creative director Demna Gvasalia backstage at Balenciaga’s autumn/winter 18 show. And we're going to take a deep dive into that collection as we discuss where the designer has taken the house since he gained control of it from Alexander Wang in 2015. This episode, i-D Arts and Culture Editor Matthew Whitehouse is joined by Bojana Kozarevic from Paris. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Det Parisbaserade modemärket Vêtements har på bara ett par år lyckats med att skaffa sig så hängivna anhängare att det ibland liknas vid en kult. Bakom märket finns en brokig internationell samling av medarbetare, som inte nödvändigtvis alla jobbar med kläder utan är stylister, artister, festfixare, modeller och dj:s. Den gemensamma nämnaren är att de förkastar det sätt på vilket de anser att modebranschen traditionellt har förkunnat i vilken stil och på vilket sätt man bör klä sig. Istället har de valt att förvalta och förfina kritikerna hävdar förfula den vardagliga stil med jeans och tröja, boots och hoodies som många redan har. För det handlar om kläder vêtements, på franska som de säger.Vêtements chefsdesigner heter Demna Gvasalia, är 35 år och född i Georgien, uppvuxen i Düsseldorf, utbildad i mode på Royal Academy of Fine Arts i Antwerpen och har arbetslivserfarenhet från Paris, där han jobbat på både Maison Martin Margiela och Louis Vuitton. Det är med andra ord ett märke med många, långa och olika sorters tentakler ute i världen. Inte minst är dess medarbetare väl bevandrade i moderna subkulturer, vilket gjort att de omfamnas lite extra av ung generation som gärna betraktar märket som sitt.Så när Demna Gvasalia förra året, 2015, blev utnämnd till ny chefsdesigner för det anrika modemärket Balenciaga vid sidan av sitt vanliga jobbn var det många som utbrast: äntligen en frisk fläkt av streetwear i salongerna, och applåderade att den etablerade modebranschen började tänka lite nytt.Det finns förstås även de som har en något mer kritisk inställning till Vêtements, och deras förhållningssätt till mode, som kanske kan beskrivas som en sorts variant på vad man kallar för de-konstruktion, och som var i ropet på 90-talet inom modet att man använder sig av befintliga vardagsplagg som man klipper sönder och sätter ihop på nya sätt, eller vrider till och förvränger, på olika vis. Långt ifrån alla går förstås igång på Vêtements luvjackor i storlek extra-extra-extra-large med ärmar som släpar i golvet, långa t-tröjor som ser ut att vara bakochfram, skevt skurna klänningar, läderhandskar utformade som diskhandskar eller boots med klackar i form av cigarettändare.I veckans program berättar vi mer om detta för tillfället omtalade märke. Vi pratar med Magnus Söderlund, professor i marknadsföring på Handelshögskolan i Stockholm, om varför ett modemärke kan ta flera tusen kronor betalat för en enkel t-shirt. Vi träffar också den nybakade modeskaparen Julia Falkhorn som, precis som Vêtements, hämtar inspiration från gatans mode. I veckan visade hon sin examenskollektion från Textilhögskolan i Borås på Stockholm Fashion Week. Och så tar vi en närmare titt på så kallade pins det vill säga en sorts billigare broscher, som vunnit i popularitet. Veckans gäst är Jörgen Andersson, konsult och rådgivare i modebranschen.