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sans la possession de ce parfum, sa vie n'avait plus de sens.Victoire, Pascale, Jeanne et Marianne comparent le roman de Patrick Süskind, Le Parfum, à son adaptation en film réalisée par Tom Tykwer avec Ben Whishaw, Dustin Hoffman, Alan Rickman et Rachel Hurd-Wood. Jean-Baptiste Grenouille naît en 1738 dans la crasse du Paris du XVIIIe siècle. Malgré lui il suscite le dégoût et le malaise, mais peu lui importe : il possède un odorat exceptionnel, et coûte que coûte il est bien décidé à devenir le plus grand parfumeur de tous les temps - quitte à tuer.Le film de Tom Tykwer est-il fidèle au livre dont il est tiré ? Réponse dans l'épisode !3 min 10 : On commence par parler du roman Le Parfum de Patrick Süskind, paru en 1985.1 h 08 : On enchaîne sur l'adaptation en film sortie en 2006 et réalisée par Tom Tykwer avec Ben Whishaw, Dustin Hoffman, Alan Rickman et Rachel Hurd-Wood. 1 h 50 min 43 : On termine sur nos recommandations autour de la France du XVIIIe siècle et des obsessions dévorantes.Avez-vous lu ou vu Le Parfum ?Recommandations :La piel que habito, réalisé par Pedro Almodóvar (2011)Monstres, écrit par Frédéric Michaud (2022)Música, réalisé par Rudy Mancuso (2024)Petite, écrit par Edward Carey (2018)Crédits : Distilling Roses - Johnny Klimek, Reinhold Heil & Tom Tykwer (tiré de la bande-originale Perfume - The Story of a Murderer) - ℗ A Warner Classics release, ℗ 2006 Constantin Film AG under exclusive licence to Parlophone Records Limited
Fã assumida desde sempre do Diogo Infante, acabei ainda mais. O seu talento como actor e encenador é (re)conhecido. Quem conhece a sua faceta de leitor e como os livros o ajudaram? Sou suspeita mas... vale a pena. Os livros que o actor escolheu: - Fernão Capelo Gaivota, Richard Bach; - O Perfume, Patrick Suskind; - Salto Mortal, Marion Zimmer Bradley; - Cyrano de Bergerac, Edmond Rostand. Livro que o Diogo referiu no fim da conversa: As terças com Morrie, Mitch Albom. A peça que disse que vão repor: A noite de Reis, do Shakespeare. A peça Cyrano de Bergerac teve a tradução do Nuno Judice no Teatro Nacional D.Maria II. O que ofereci: Caro Professor Germain, Albert Camus. PLANO B: Manual de Prestidigitação, Mário Cesariny. Os livros aqui: https://www.wook.pt/
Comme une mise en bouche sensorielle, l'odeur entrouvre la porte d'un monde sur le point d'être découvert, antichambre des sens, éclaireuse de la vue, du toucher, du goût. L'odeur annonce les saveurs, les saisons, les lieux, ravive les souvenirs. Elle fait vagabonder l'esprit, met en appétit, fait monter l'eau à la bouche, et les larmes aux yeux. Chacun en a sa propre traduction, elle est aussi personnelle qu'universelle. Faut-il qu'on soit privé de ce sens pour prendre conscience de son importance ? Que serait le goût sans l'odorat, l'imagination sans déclinaison olfactive ? Existe-t-il une cuisine pour ceux qui ont perdu l'odorat ? La senteur agit comme une présence, vivante et active, elle change nos perspectives, notre regard, par là même : tout notre rapport au monde s'en trouve bouleversé et redéfini. Avec Ryoko Sekiguchi, poétesse, traductrice, écrivain. L'appel des odeurs est publié aux éditions P.O.L tout comme Nagori, et 961h à Beyrouth (et 321 plats qui les accompagnent). Ryoko Sekiguchi dirige également la collection Le Banquet des éditions Picquier. Pour aller plus loin : - Sentir de Ryoko Sekiguchi - Éditions JBE Books - Goûter le monde – Éditions JBE Books - Le nuage, 10 façons de le préparer, de Ryoko Sekiguchi et Sugio Yamaguchi, aux éditions de l'Epure - Lieux de Georges Perec - W et le souvenir d'enfance - Le goût du jardin, de Sébastien et Michel Bras – Éditions Poil de Carotte - Le parfum, de Patrick Suskind. Sur un air de Loba, de Blick Bassy. En images
Comme une mise en bouche sensorielle, l'odeur entrouvre la porte d'un monde sur le point d'être découvert, antichambre des sens, éclaireuse de la vue, du toucher, du goût. L'odeur annonce les saveurs, les saisons, les lieux, ravive les souvenirs. Elle fait vagabonder l'esprit, met en appétit, fait monter l'eau à la bouche, et les larmes aux yeux. Chacun en a sa propre traduction, elle est aussi personnelle qu'universelle. Faut-il qu'on soit privé de ce sens pour prendre conscience de son importance ? Que serait le goût sans l'odorat, l'imagination sans déclinaison olfactive ? Existe-t-il une cuisine pour ceux qui ont perdu l'odorat ? La senteur agit comme une présence, vivante et active, elle change nos perspectives, notre regard, par là même : tout notre rapport au monde s'en trouve bouleversé et redéfini. Avec Ryoko Sekiguchi, poétesse, traductrice, écrivain. L'appel des odeurs est publié aux éditions P.O.L tout comme Nagori, et 961h à Beyrouth (et 321 plats qui les accompagnent). Ryoko Sekiguchi dirige également la collection Le Banquet des éditions Picquier. Pour aller plus loin : - Sentir de Ryoko Sekiguchi - Éditions JBE Books - Goûter le monde – Éditions JBE Books - Le nuage, 10 façons de le préparer, de Ryoko Sekiguchi et Sugio Yamaguchi, aux éditions de l'Epure - Lieux de Georges Perec - W et le souvenir d'enfance - Le goût du jardin, de Sébastien et Michel Bras – Éditions Poil de Carotte - Le parfum, de Patrick Suskind. Sur un air de Loba, de Blick Bassy. En images
Surprise! We did more loosies! It's loosies through the end of the year and you're gonna LIKE it. Conversation sprawled as always, covering global warming, the new Grand Theft Auto, and starfish faces. We also discussed chapters 31 - 35 of Perfume by Patrick Suskind for the book club! Next week is chapters 36 - 40. Remember to rate, review, follow, and subscribe!
We're back with another planned loosie! Per usual, conversation sprawled, but on this episode we talk about our weeks, current events, and thing we've been buying! We also discussed chapters 21- 25 of Perfume by Patrick Suskind for the book club! Next week is 26 - 30.
Listen gang, we will be back to our regularly scheduled content soon enough, you just have to give Snax & Goose a liiiiiitle bit longer to, like, i dunno, piece back together their lives. Oh and the book club is on chapters 6- 10 of Perfume by Patrick Suskind. Don't forget to rate, review, and subscribe!
We live in a world of smell -- and we barely understand it! Dmitry Rinberg joins Vasant Dhar in episode 62 of Brave New World to discuss what he has learnt about the neurobiology of smell over the last two decades. Useful resources: 1. Dmitry Rinberg at NYU, Google Scholar, LinkedIn, Twitter and Rinberg Lab.. 2. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer -- Patrick Suskind. 3. A Novel Multigene Family May Encode Odorant Receptors: A Molecular Basis for Odor Recognition -- Linda Buck and Richard Axel. 4. Linda Buck and Richard Axel win the Nobel Prize. 5. Learning to Smell: Using Deep Learning to Predict the Olfactory Properties of Molecules -- Alexander B Wiltschko. 6. Digitizing Smell: Using Molecular Maps to Understand Odor -- Richard C Gerkin and Alexander B Wiltschko. 7. This Cat Sensed Death. What if Computers Could, Too? -- Siddhartha Mukherjee. 8. SMILES to Smell: Decoding the Structure–Odor Relationship of Chemical Compounds Using the Deep Neural Network Approach -- Anju Sharma, Rajnish Kumar, Shabnam Ranjta, and Pritish Kumar Varadwaj. Check out Vasant Dhar's newsletter on Substack. Subscription is free!
Liz Nugent author of BBC Between The Covers book club pick STRANGE SALLY DIAMOND and four previous crime thriller novels UNRAVELLING OLIVER, LYING IN WAIT, SKIN DEEP and OUR LITTLE CRUELTIES. Her novels have all been No1 Bestsellers and she has won four Irish Book Awards, as well as the James Joyce medal for Literature. Liz chats about:How the frustration of working in theatre and tv led her to writingWhy her first novel took her six years to writeHow she discovered that crime was her genreHow her famous ‘killer' opening lines are how her books startWhy her process is organic despite her work being plot drivenGuest Author: Liz Nugent Twitter: @LizzieNugent IG: @LizNugentWriter Books: Strange Sally Diamond by Liz Nugent, Our Little Cruelties by Liz Nugent, Skin Deep by Liz Nugent, Lying in Wait by Liz Nugent, Unravelling Oliver by Liz Nugent Host: Kate Sawyer Twitter: @katesawyer IG: @mskatesawyer Books: The Stranding by Kate Sawyer & This Family (coming May 2023. Liz's book recommendations:A book for fan's of Liz's work: I Know This Much is True by Wally LambA book Liz has always loved: Perfume by Patrick Suskind, The Book of Evidence by John BanvilleA book that's been published recently or is coming soon: The Square of Sevens by Laura Shepherd-RobinsonOther books discussed in this episode: To Kill A Mockingbird by Harper Lee, Elgelby by Sebastian Faulks, The Secret History by Donna TarttNovel Experience with Kate Sawyer is recorded and produced by Kate Sawyer - GET IN TOUCHTo receive transcripts and news from Kate to your inbox please SIGN UP FOR MY NEWSLETTER or visit https://www.mskatesawyer.com/novelexperiencepodcast for more information.
Brad and Adam discuss Tom Tykwer's epic adaptation of Patrick Suskind's historical fantasy novel. The What are you Watching? segment includes discussions of Star Trek: Picard, Succession, and Euphoria. Follow us on Instagram: @a_movie_odyssey
"Le Classico" de Sébastien Ministru : "Le parfum" de Patrick Süskind. Au XVIIIe siècle vécut en France un homme qui compta parmi les personnages les plus géniaux et les plus horribles de son époque. Il s'appelait Jean-Baptiste Grenouille. Sa naissance, son enfance furent épouvantables et tout autre que lui n'aurait pas survécu. Mais Grenouille n'avait besoin que d'un minimum de nourriture et de vêtements, et son âme n'avait besoin de rien. Or ce monstre de Grenouille, car il s'agissait bel et bien d'un genre de monstre, avait un don, ou plutôt un nez unique au monde et il entendait bien devenir, même par les moyens les plus atroces, le Dieu tout-puissant de l'univers, car « qui maîtrisait les odeurs, maîtrisait le coeur des hommes ». C'est son histoire, abominable… et drolatique, qui nous est racontée dans Le Parfum, un roman très vite devenu un best-seller mondial, et aujourd'hui porté à l'écran. L'écrivaine française Emmanuelle Bayamack-Tam pour son roman "La Treizième Heure" (P.O.L), Prix Médicis et Prix Landerneau 2022. Farah, adolescente, a toujours connu L'Église de la Treizième Heure pour la bonne raison que Lenny, son père, en est le fondateur. Elle vit en communauté dans cette Église millénariste un peu spéciale : féministe, queer, animaliste. On y récite Nerval ou Rimbaud. Lenny rassemble ses ouailles autour de messes poétiques et d'ateliers de déparasitage psychique. La Treizième Heure, c'est aussi l'heure de la révélation, du triomphe des pauvres, des dominés, des humiliés. Les membres de la communauté l'espèrent, angoissés devant les menaces qui pèsent sur la planète : épidémies, guerres, réchauffement climatique… Lenny élève seul sa fille Farah. Hind, son grand amour, l'ayant abandonné à la naissance du bébé. Le roman se divise en trois parties, racontées par chacun des membres de cette famille à la fois déglinguée et très contemporaine. Farah, née intersexuée, est acquise à la cause délirante de son père, et devient plus critique en grandissant : son père lui a menti sur sa filiation. En menant l'enquête, elle comprend qu'elle n'avait pas une mère mais deux ! Hind et Sophie. Comment est-ce possible ? Lenny prend la parole ensuite. Il raconte deux coups de foudre successifs : la poésie d'abord, Hind ensuite. Mais on s'aperçoit que les deux ne font qu'une : Hind est une chimère, une illumination, une fée baudelairienne. Lenny fondera l'Église de la Treizième Heure après le départ de son amour. La troisième partie est donc celle de Hind. Femme trans d'origine algérienne, elle avoue l'histoire violente de son parcours pour gagner sa liberté sexuelle et individuelle. Elle a aimé Lenny et voulu un enfant de lui, mais quittera Lenny et Farah pour vivre une passion amoureuse vouée à l'échec.
Quem conhece a Rita Guerra, super cantora, enquanto leitora? Gosta de mistério, o "fora do normal", crime... e acaba com um “fofinho”. Bom contraste, óptima conversa. Os livros que a artista escolheu para a conversa: O nome da rosa, Umberto Eco; O perfume, Patrick Suskind; O Drácula, o príncipe de muitos rostos, Radu Florescu; Asterix (o favorito é o Domínio dos Deuses); O que dei: Se der sangue, Stephen King.
Patrick Suskind, autor románu Parfém: Příběh vraha, ne nadarmo říká, že vůně nás umí přesvědčit lépe než argumenty, vzhled nebo emoce. Čich je nedílnou součástí našeho gastronomického zážitku, hledání vhodného partnera, ale i rozpoznávání nebezpečí. O čich mnoho z nás přišlo během pandemie, a tak si ho teď podle globálního průzkumu Firmenich více váží 56 % lidí. Existuje více než 1,7 triliónu různých vonných molekul, a tak je svět vůní Mariánským příkopem, který stále ještě prozkoumáváme. A hlavně nakupujeme. Aktuální hodnota trhu s parfémy je více než 50 miliard dolarů a neustále roste. Další díl podcastu Trendspotting je o vůních a parfémech.
Patrick Suskind, autor románu Parfém: Příběh vraha, ne nadarmo říká, že vůně nás umí přesvědčit lépe než argumenty, vzhled nebo emoce. Čich je nedílnou součástí našeho gastronomického zážitku, hledání vhodného partnera, ale i rozpoznávání nebezpečí. O čich mnoho z nás přišlo během pandemie, a tak si ho teď podle globálního průzkumu Firmenich více váží 56 % lidí. Existuje více než 1,7 triliónu různých vonných molekul, a tak je svět vůní Mariánským příkopem, který stále ještě prozkoumáváme. A hlavně nakupujeme. Aktuální hodnota trhu s parfémy je více než 50 miliard dolarů a neustále roste. Další díl podcastu Trendspotting je o vůních a parfémech.
Mission encre noire Tome 33 Chapitre 374. Morel de Maxime Raymond Bock paru en 2021 aux éditions Le Cheval d'août. La première image de ce roman n'existe déjà plus, c'est celle de la page de couverture, le pont Jacques-Cartier étalé en construction. Nous n'appartenons pas à cette photo, nous sommes de ceux et celles qui empruntons le pont, depuis toujours, depuis l'oubli, depuis le futur. Pour un gars du faubourg à m'lasse cela veut dire autre chose. Ce quartier, ces maisons autour du pont, vont être rasées de près. La famille Morel, nous relie à ce quotidien ordinaire, celui des grand chantiers ouvriers, des églises, des funérailles, des ruelles, des usines désaffectées, des épiceries du coin, celui des sans-voix. Jean-Claude Morel, cet ouvrier anonyme aura creusé le métro et le pont-tunnel Louis-Hippolyte-La Fontaine, fait surgir des autoroutes, pourtant sa demeure, sur la rue Notre-Dame sera taillée en pièce et sa famille expropriée. Sa petite-fille Catherine veut faire parler le sang, elle libérera la parole, car toute cette violence ça ne s'oublie pas. Maxime Raymond Bock raconte cette histoire, vu de l'intérieur, un fondu enchaîné sur la métamorphose de Montréal au 20 ème siècle. Il est notre invité ce soir à Mission encre noire. Extrait:« -Tu dis que ta vie est plate. Tu dois te sentir seul, aussi. Mais je suis certaine que t'as des beaux souvenirs. Tu pourrais m'en raconter un, pour commencer. Morel se garde de soupirer. Il est en effet seul avec ses souvenirs, qui ne se montrent jamais que dans le désordre. Un enchevêtrement de scènes imprévisibles qui se succèdent les unes les autres par accident, ainsi fonctionne la mémoire, avec culs-de-sac, histoires en suspens, intrigues irrésolues et disparitions inopinées, déclencheurs impromptus, relations profondes soudain devenues superficielles. Tant de détails pour tant de trous noirs. Et s'ils sont durs, ces souvenirs, c'est que la vie l'est elle-même, voilà une des rares choses desquelles il est certain, et cette certitude n'est pas sans issue d'une parole divine ni celle de quelque mortel que ce soit, mais de sa propre expérience. Si le passé a été vécu dans la difficulté, comment y revenir avec le sourire? Peut-être grâce à la sagesse. Ce mot si commun dont il ne saisit pas tout à fait la signification, sinon quand elle concerne les enfants dociles.» Quelques découvertes de lecture de confinement: Le chien de Akiz, traduit de l'allemand par Brice Germain paru en 2021 aux éditions Flammarion. Un roman truculent, drôle, on pourrait dire gargantuesque qui nous fait découvrir les arrières cours de restaurants prestigieux à travers un personnage énigmatique: le chien. Un jeune homme qui, lit-on, partage, avec Grenouille de Patrick Suskind, un destin des plus sordide. Solak par Caroline Hinault paru en 2021 aux éditions Rouergue Noir. Un polar de saison, pour celles et ceux qui aiment les huis clos tendus, où planent une menace sourde et cruelle: l'hiver éternel du cercle polaire. Vous serez pris dans les glaces dans un environnement sans pitié. Caroline Hinault vous saisie jusqu'à l'effroi pour ce premier roman, un vrai petit bijou qui ne déçoit pas jusqu'à son dénouement. Une guerre sans fin de Jean-Pierre Perrin paru en 2021 aux éditions Rivages/Noir. À travers le destin croisé de trois hommes, Jean-Pierre Perrin, grand reporter et spécialiste du Moyen-Orient, rend un hommage, non seulement à une région martyre, la Syrie, mais également aux victimes. beaucoup de ces pages sont bouleversantes d'humanité. Vous serez emportés par ces trajectoires de vie folles, au milieu des bombes. À mi-chemin du polar, du thriller et du roman de guerre, cette histoire n'est pas sans évoquer d'autres descentes au coeur des ténèbres chez Joseph Conrad ou dans le froid réalisme du reportage de guerre cher à Joseph Kessel.
3 fois par semaine (lundi, mercredi et vendredi), Pénélope vous décrypte - en 3 minutes chrono - un livre célèbre.Auteure des textes : Sophie AstrabieDirection Editoriale: Pénélope BoeufVoix : Pénélope BoeufProduction : La Toile Sur Écoute Voir Acast.com/privacy pour les informations sur la vie privée et l'opt-out.
“Tal vez podamos volver a empezar en la nueva tierra rica, en California. Pero tu no puedes empezar. Tu y yo somos la ira de un momento, mil imágenes. Somos esta tierra, esta tierra roja; y somos los años de inundación, y los del polvo y los de la sequía. No podemos empezar otra vez. Y cuando el propietario nos dijo que nos fuéramos: eso somos nosotros; y cuando el tractor derribó la casa, eso somos hasta que nos muramos. A California marcharemos con nuestra amargura. Y un día los ejércitos de amargura desfilarán todos en la misma dirección. Caminarán juntos y de ellos emanará el terror de la muerte.” “Las uvas de la ira”, película de 1.940 dirigida por John Ford, basada en la novela homónima de John Steinbeck de 1.939. Existe una estrecha relación entre el cine y el libro, y siempre se ha puesto sobre el tapete qué tan fiel puede ser la traslación de una obra literaria al cine, así como el eterno discurso entre la influencia que hay entre estas dos corrientes artísticas. Discusiones que cobran actualidad cada vez que se dice que una película está basada en un libro determinado, sea del género que sea, y que promueven un debate que siempre estará ahí, eternamente. El libro y el cine son un puente para la aventura ya que el cine utiliza la imagen para captar la atención y la emoción del espectador, y la literatura usa la palabra para crear imágenes en la mente del lector que van a despertar su sensibilidad. Esta relación entre el cine y la literatura no es nueva. Desde que los hermanos Lumière inventaran en cinematógrafo se trato de darle un contenido culto a las películas debido a la mirada despectiva de ciertas élites que consideraban al cine como un arte menor, un espectáculo de feria, exclusivo para el consumo de las clases bajas. Para dotarle de calidad surgió la idea de incorporar obras clásicas del teatro al cine para darle un contenido artístico, e incluso grandes artistas de los escenarios se unieron al experimento que recibió el nombre de “Cine de Arte” o “Teatro fotografiado”, pero todo resultó un fracaso y duró bien poco. Adolecía, sobre todo de actuaciones sobrecargadas típicas de su origen teatral. A pesar de ese traspié, el cine comenzó una estrecha relación con la literatura y buscó nuevos caminos para realizar adaptaciones literarias. Conviene observar que adaptar un libro al celuloide no debe ser labor fácil, ya que una adaptación no debe ser un calco completo del libro y más teniendo en cuenta que hay obras literarias que son demasiado voluminosas y por esa extensión es casi imposible trasladarlas a la pantalla, por lo que lo más correcto es sintetizarlas, y en eso el cine puede ayudar, pues la utilización de la imagen servirá en muchos aspectos para lograr esa síntesis que no desfigure la obra. Otro aspecto importante es mantener el espíritu del escritor, pues sin el una película no sería otra cosa que un envoltorio completamente vacío. Las adaptaciones no se hicieron esperar. George Méliès, el creador de los efectos especiales y director de películas geniales, se inspiró en Julio Verne y su obra “De la Tierra a la Luna”, para realizar su cinta “Viaje a la Luna” en 1.902. En Alemania, durante la década de 1.920, aparece una corriente llamada expresionismo, que explora los rincones más oscuros de la naturaleza humana. Esta tendencia toma como referentes muchas novelas de tipo gótico o de terror, como es el caso de “Drácula” escrita por Bram Stoker en 1.897, que fue llevada a la pantalla por Friedrich Murnau en 1.922 con el nombre de “Nosferatu”; la misma que tendría un excelente con la película homónima de Werner Herzog, en 1.979, para no tener que pagar derechos de autor. Otro caso es el de la obra “El Golem” de Gustav Meyrink, de 1.915, que también es llevada a la pantalla grande por Paul Wegener en 1.920. Con la aparición del cine sonoro empezó una fiebre por adaptar obras literarias al cine, en especial en Estados Unidos, donde los escritores que posteriormente se convirtieron en iconos de la literatura contemporánea norteamericana, en géneros como el drama o la novela negra, se convirtieron en guionistas de los grandes estudios de Hollywood. Tal es el caso de autores de la talla de Francis Scott Fitzgerald, William Faulkner, Raimomd Chandler, Dashiel Hammet, James M. Cain, Ernest Heminway, entre otros. Muchas de las magníficas películas de la edad de oro de los grandes estudios están basadas en sus guiones o en sus novelas. Destacaremos joyas como “El halcón maltés”, de 1.941, basada en la novela de Dashiell Hammet y dirigida por John Huston; “El largo adiós” de 1.973, de la obra de Raimond Chandler, dirigida por Robert Altman y “El cartero siempre llama dos veces” de James M. Cain, de la que se hicieron dos versiones: la de 1.946 dirigida por Tay Garnett, con Lana Turner y John Garfield como protagonistas (para mi, la mejor), y la de 1.981, de Bob Rafelson, con Jessica Lange y Jack Nicholson. Pero las adaptaciones literarias, en especial de los grandes clásicos, no siempre han llegado a buen puerto. Algunas de ellas incluso han deteriorado considerablemente el libro donde se originan, trastocando y envileciendo la obra literaria, a veces por razones económicas, de falta de rigor, de querer agradar al público, etc. El caso de “Don Quijote”, obra fundamental de la literatura universal, a pesar de tener decenas de adaptaciones con resultados desiguales, no ha llegado a cuajar. Existieron dos proyectos para filmar la vida del personaje de la triste figura, pero fueron abandonados por falta de dinero. Uno lo intentó realizar el inmenso Orson Welles en 1.957, del que sólo queda una versión en DVD, montada por su guionista Jesús Franco. Por su parte, Terry Gilliam, ex- integrante de los Monthy Python, comenzó una adaptación en el año 2000, aún no terminada, aunque existe un documental, llamado “Lost in La Mancha”, que augura que la película será una buena adaptación. En cuanto a obras teatrales, podemos citar esplendidos filmes basados en la obra monumental de William Shakespeare, poniendo énfasis en el gran actor y director Laurence Olivier. Pier Paolo Passolini, entre los años sesenta y setenta, adaptó magistralmente joyas de la literatura como “El Decamerón”, “Los cuentos de Canterbury”, “Las mil y una noches” y las tragedias griegas “Edipo” o “Medea”. Otro cineasta, el alemán Volker Schondorf, plasmó en 1.979 con gran pericia la monumental novela de Gunther Grass, “El tambor de hojalata”, obra mágica de la nueva literatura alemana, combinando fantasía con el más crudo realismo, describiendo el ascenso y caída del nazismo, todo ello bajo la mirada de un niño que se niega a crecer, encarnando una metáfora de la rebeldía. Por cierto el filme se llevó el Oscar a la mejor película extranjera, un premio más que merecido por su innegable calidad. En otro orden de cosas, los llamados han tenido un papel importante en el cine, a pesar de que muchos críticos literarios los rechacen por considerarlos una escritura inferior en la literatura, y algunos se han convertido en éxitos de taquilla, como el caso de “Lo que el viento se llevó” de Margaret Mitchel, de 1.937, llevada al cine por Victor Fleming en 1.939 y protagonizada por Clark Gable y Vivien Leigh, que obtuvo un éxito arrasador y se llevó diez premios óscar. “El padrino”, novela escrita por Mario Puzo , publicada en 1.969, y aclamada por crítica y público, fue adaptada al cine por Francis Ford Coppola en 1.972, y se convirtió en una trilogía que ocupa un lugar preeminente en la historia del llamado séptimo arte. A ello hay que sumar la calidad de su realización el magnífico guion del propio Puzo y Coppola y las actuaciones de actores en estado de gracia como Marlon Brando, Al Pacino, Robert de Niro, Robert Duvall y otros. En los últimos años, la relación, a veces peligrosa, entre estos dos artes se ha incrementado. Ante la carestía de ideas de la industria cinematográfica, esta no ha tenido otra alternativa que contar con toda obra literaria que encuentre a su alcance y que suponga que tiene asegurada una buena taquilla, con el fin de recuperar la inversión y generar ganancias. En algunas ocasiones ha salido airosa con películas como la trilogía de “El señor de los anillos” , de J.R. Tolkien, dirigida por Peter Jackson entre 2000 y 2003; “El perfume”, de Patrick Suskind de 2005, dirigida por el alemán Tom Tykwer; “Expiación” de Ian Mcewan, dirigida por el inglés Joe Wright o “No es país para viejos” de la novela de 2005 escrita por Corman McCarthy y dirigida por los hermanos Coen, que ganó cuatro premios óscar, entre ellos el de mejor actor secundario que recayó en Javier Bardem en 2007. Otro escritor al que ha recurrido el cine con frecuencia es Stephen King, creador omnipresente de best sellers del género de terror. Quizá la mejor adaptación de una obra suya sea “El resplandor” de 1.977, película dirigida por el gran Stanley Kubrick en 1.980, con su habitual maestría. Este género ha llevado a la gran pantalla monstruos clásicos como Drácula y Frankenstein, creados por la pluma de Bram Stoker y Mary Shelley, hasta el punto de que decenas de versiones de estos personajes han sido realizadas por los estudios Universal en Estados Unidos y la Hammer británica en las décadas de los treinta a los sesenta del pasado siglo. Habría que resaltar la versión que de Drácula hizo Francis Ford Coppola en 1.992 en su película “Drácula de Bram Stoker”. También la ciencia ficción nos ha trasladado con su poder de anticipación a los mundos creados por H.G. Wells, como “La máquina del tiempo” o “El hombre invisible”, o a la magnífica “Blade Runner” de 1.982 dirigida por Ridley Scott, basada en la novela “Sueñan los androides con ovejas eléctricas”, escrita por Philips K. Dick en el año 1.968, ambientada en un Los Angeles agobiado por la lluvia ácida y la presencia inquietante de robots inteligentes. Al despertar el siglo XX y en medio de la crisis de los sentimientos artísticos, se alza el joven cine adueñado de un estilo, salpicado de posibilidades. Luis Lumière se contenta con cinematografiar como antes había fotografiado, con una ciencia discreta de la composición: filma la salida de las fábricas, la entrada del tren en una estación, Venecia, la coronación del zar Nicolás II…..El cine permite registrar un acontecimiento, desde el más insignificante al más considerable, en su duración real, dando así cuerpo a la fugacidad misma. El cine fija a razón de dieciséis, y más tarde veinticuatro imágenes por segundo. En seguida empiezan a descubrirse las posibilidades. El nuevo arte ha de alimentarse abundantemente de los dos géneros literarios mayores: la novela y el teatro. Toma prestado de ellos su poder de evocación, su capacidad persuasiva, el ensueño, anudado al apetito que anhela conquistar a una sociedad industrial en pleno desarrollo. Luego la cinematografía estalla, se multiplica, se introduce en los más recónditos rincones y se derrama por el mundo con vocación literaria y principios universales: duración ajustada a lo que un espectador puede soportar sin impacientarse, sin necesidad de fragmentar su atención, personajes que evolucionan, argumento que conmociona, espacio y tiempo. Se ajusta al teatro en extensión y a la novela en técnica, y añade la imagen. Los autores literarios, con su mirada omnisciente, pueden entrar en los sentimientos de los personajes y desnudarnos su intimidad. El director de cine, usuario de un instrumento, la cámara, meramente testimonial, necesita armarse de una habilidad extrema para filmar la realidad humana de una historia tal como está escrita. Pocos directores han sido capaces de ofrecerla con la claridad y prudencia que exige el medio, con elegancia. La mayoría de las novelas que son llevadas al cine fallan en la transmisión de los mensajes que lanza en autor, casi siempre teñidos de frivolidad. Solo los directores más hábiles filman la circunstancia humana, la de lo creado en la interioridad, la de lo secreto, en busca de una eficacia dramática estrictamente visual. Pocos son capaces de filmar directamente, es decir, sin recurrir al diálogo explicativo, sentimientos como la sospecha, el deseo, los celos, la envidia…...La simplicidad y la claridad no es incompatibles con los sentimientos más sutiles de los seres humanos. Así el lenguaje del cine exige una especialización casi absoluta. El director no puede ser diestro en tal o cual aspecto, sino gestor y responsable de cada imagen, de cada plano, de cada escena, del guión, del argumento, del montaje, de la fotografía, del sonido, en fin, de muchas especialidades más que han hecho del cine un verdadero cúmulo industrial de las artes. Como sucede con las demás experiencias artísticas, las mayores inversiones no obtienen la mejor valoración crítica, y a menudo con pequeños presupuestos se obtenido magníficas películas. La antigua inquietud por transformar “El Quijote”, Anna Karénina”, “Guerra y Paz”, Madame Bovary” o “El lazarillo” u otras grandes obras literarias en grandes obras cinematográficas, ha cosechado más fracasos que éxitos. Novelas mediocres, sin embargo, se convirtieron en brillantes filmes. Todo esto y la conciencia de estar ante un nuevo lenguaje artístico ha catapultado el estudio del cine más que otras disciplinas, en un incremento considerable en la vida académica. Veamos, para terminar, un ejemplo de cómo se acomoda al cine la tradición de determinados usos literarios. Desde los inicios del arte de las letras, las formas narrativas plantearos un juego de metáforas útiles para plasmar de forma evocadora las muy diversas facetas del encuentro amoroso. Ese juego retórico de ocultación y misterio es particularmente incitador. Puesto que anima el deseo, excita la fantasía y provoca la pasión. La tradición literaria usa estos recursos, a medio camino entre la relación amorosa y el erotismo y tiene raíces tan lejanas en el tiempo como los relatos de “Las mil y una noches” en las recónditas literaturas orientales, “El arte de amar” de Ovidio y el “Satiricón” de Petronio , “El Decamerón”, de Boccaccio; el “Libro de buen amor” de Juan Ruiz; “La Celestina” de Fernando de Rojas; y tiene su continuidad en la literatura francesa (“Las amistades peligrosas” de Choderlos de Laclos), la inglesa (“el amante de Lady Chatterley” de D.H. Lawrence ) y la italiana (“la romana” de Alberto Moravia), solo por citar algunos ejemplos. El cine no se olvida de esa tradición y la trata con los mismos principios y similares metáforas e imágenes. Muchos, y con variable destreza, son sus cultivadores. Recordemos a Federico Fellini con “Amarcord” o a Luis Buñuel con “Belle de jour”. Y sin entrar en más valoraciones, pues las épocas recientes están tan pegadas a nuestros ojos que no podemos observarlas y probablemente la mayoría de las películas de moda serán olvidadas, esa corriente recuperó impulso comercial a través de títulos como “Instinto básico”, y en España con las producciones de Vicente Aranda y Bigas Luna. Pero no nos engañemos: la mejor película no es la de mayor presupuesto, ni la que logra un mayor éxito de taquilla, ni la del director más reconocido, ni la del actor de moda, ni la más publicitada, ni siquiera la dirigida con talento; la mejor película es la recreada por nuestra mente, por nuestro altísimo poder imaginativo. Y en ese sentido la mejor película no siempre se instala para dejarse acariciar por nuestra memoria tras haberla visto, pues muchas veces la película se adueña de nuestro pensamiento y se acomoda en nuestra razón durante la lectura de una gran novela porque la literatura es el mejor cine de nuestra vida.
Trigger warning: We discuss serial killers, choking, and cannibalism later on in the episode. Greetings, Ghosts and Ghouls! GMN is back...well...kinda! Abbey is still on maternity leave but Gracie has a "ghost" host this week! Kate MF Sculley! This week they're talking about the beautifully problematic thriller, Perfume (2006)! Thanks to Lily LeBlanc for our theme song: www.lilythecomposer.com BLM: blacklivesmatters.carrd.co/ TLM: translifeline.org/donate/ Resources: The Scent of a Woman: Perfect Misogyny in Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Heather Addison https://www.google.com/amp/s/brightlightsfilm.com/the-scent-of-a-woman-perfect-misogyny-in-perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer/amp/ Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Patrick Suskind, an Analysis on Symbolisms and Undertones by Lee Custodio https://owlcation.com/humanities/Perfume-the-Story-of-a-Murderer-an-Analysis Perfume Review by Neil Miller https://www.google.com/amp/s/filmschoolrejects.com/movie-review-perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer/ Serial Killers, Literary Critics, and Süskind's Das Parfum by Damon O. Rarick https://www.rmmla.org/assets/docs/Journal-Archives/2000-2009/63-2-2009rarick.pdf Perfume: The Story of a Murderer (In a Nutshell) http://anutshellreview.blogspot.com/2007/01/perfume-story-of-murderer.html Genius of scents by David Lamble https://www.ebar.com/arts_&_culture/movies//227819 Redheads, Beware by The Institute of Art and Olfaction https://artandolfaction.com/redheads-beware/ 18th-Century Quest: Perfume: the Story of a Murderer by Kendra http://www.frockflicks.com/18th-century-quest-perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer/ Scent psychosis. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Victoria O'Rourke https://www.google.com/amp/s/vouijaboard.wordpress.com/2011/05/21/scent-psychosis-perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer/amp/ Perfume: Story of A Murderer - Reader Response Criticism by Cocky Film http://cockyfilm.blogspot.com/2016/12/perfume-story-of-murderer-reader.html?m=1 http://punkguru.com/perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer-by-patrick-susskind/ https://www.reddit.com/r/Rammstein/comments/b8capq/the_book_that_is_said_to_have_inspired_till_to/ https://ultimatepopculture.fandom.com/wiki/Perfume:_The_Story_of_a_Murderer https://youtu.be/MpPCfxyEpIQ https://youtu.be/6kP7cTlHPuY
Sondrine Kehoe's love affair with scent and botanicals came into being at a very young age. Kindled by childhood curiosity; Mixing flowers, honey, and alcohol to make her first perfume. What started as a creative outlet has now grown into a successful regenerative business. Cygnet Perfumery creates the most divine collection of handcrafted botanical extrait de parfum's and regenerative skincare, made in limited and small batches using sustainable sources and methods. Whether it be a parfum or skincare, Sondrine only uses the most carefully considered natural ingredients ( no synthetic fragrances or endangered plants), the process of creation is slow and intentional, with every extrait de parfum released exclusively in limited batches. Listening to Sondrine talk about the alchemical creation process of her potent products; It becomes clear that Cygnet Perfumery is a business centred around integrity and conscious practices. Sondrine's devotion and attention to every aspect of creating these divine bottles of joy for our most primal sense are admirable and something worth celebrating. This conversation is heart and soul-worthy and will teach you a lot about the art of botanical perfumery. Tune in to hear Tahnee and Sondrine discuss botanical formulation, conscious business, the power of scent, essential oils, motherhood, birth, midwifery, and so much more. "We want to treat it with respect. That's part of the reason we release a small batch and only once a year. We don't want to produce in mass production, to make as much profit as possible out of these amazing plants that we have the privilege of working with". - Sondrine Kehoe Tahnee and Sondrine discuss: Botanical perfumery How we experience smell. The skin microbiome. What is regenerative skincare? skincare ingredients. The golden age of perfumery. Native Australian botanicals. Aromatherapy and oil guidelines. Home birth and midwifery. Why the scent of parfum changes over time. Who is Sondrine Kehoe? Sondrine Kehoe is the founder and nose behind Cygnet - a mindful small business that offers slow-made botanical extrait de parfum and regenerative skincare. Sondrine is a self-taught perfumer who has been alchemising plants into fragrance since she was a child. After studying midwifery and becoming a mother herself, she launched Cygnet in 2020 - a celebration of nature, creativity, and the fifth sense. CLICK HERE TO LISTEN ON APPLE PODCAST Resources: IFRA Perfume Body cygnetperfumery.com.au Cygnet Perfumery Instagram Q: How Can I Support The SuperFeast Podcast? A: Tell all your friends and family and share online! We'd also love it if you could subscribe and review this podcast on iTunes. Or check us out on Stitcher, CastBox, iHeart RADIO:)! Plus we're on Spotify! Check Out The Transcript Here: Tahnee: (00:00) Hi everybody and welcome to the SuperFeast Podcast. I'm here today with Sondrine Kehoe. She's the founder of Cygnet Perfumery, and she's just a bit of a legend. I'm really excited to have her here with us today. Tahnee: (00:14) I've been diving into her world, I think since the start of the year. I signed up for a subscription for her work, and I've been getting these beautiful little packages on that incredible cotton paper that you use, which I'm obsessed with. Tahnee: (00:26) And Sondrine's work around using botanicals that are really carefully sourced, and some of them are handmade, and just this really kind of old school process, using... Is it the spiritus vini? All of this stuff. I'm really excited to be here with you. Because I have a big thing for perfume but I don't like all that commercial stuff, so it's super exciting to meet you. Thanks so much for joining us. Sondrine Kehoe: (00:53) Thanks. It's so nice to be chatting to you. Tahnee: (00:56) Yeah. And I'm just so fascinated with your story. I tried to do a bit of research on you, and saw that used to be a midwife, and I thought, babies, scent... Really primal careers you've had. So would you mind telling us a little bit about how you got into perfumery, but also your life before perfumery? Sondrine Kehoe: (01:20) Of course, yeah. Where to begin? I feel like actually, perfumery started right from the beginning. So before midwifery and all those other tangents that I went on, I started, just like most children, making potions in the garden from plants, and I think we can all relate to that. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:46) And I just never grew out of it. It's just a passion that was seeded from an early age. And so I'd always make my own perfumes and skincare from the garden, and was very encouraged by all my aunts and family, who would give me books and old perfume bottles. Sondrine Kehoe: (02:10) And I remember in primary school, I discovered that botanical perfumery was an actual vocation, and that there were people out there making it. And so I made my first alcohol based perfume with vodka and honey, and different flowers from the garden. I've still got it today, actually. But it's something that I've just done my whole life and loved. I guess it's a bit of a creative outlet for me. Sondrine Kehoe: (02:42) And then I got out of high school, and actually was going to start something when I finished school, a completely different project, but with botanical perfume. But life took me in another direction and I ended up studying midwifery, and completely fell in love with that whole world. Babies, birth. It was a really special time. Sondrine Kehoe: (03:11) So I studied that for four years. And then me and my partner decided to have a sea change, to move out of the city with my sister and her husband. And sorry if I sound breathless. It's the 32 week [crosstalk 00:03:28] read my daughter a story and I'm... Run a marathon. Sondrine Kehoe: (03:36) So we had a sea change out of Melbourne and ended up both getting pregnant, within about two weeks apart of each other. And so we both had our babies in the same house, and life just suddenly slowed down a lot. And I took a step back from Midwifery, and just fell back into perfumery. Sondrine Kehoe: (04:03) While my daughter would nap I would be tinkering away on different formulas. And Cygnet really grew from there, from becoming a mother and re- igniting that creativity and slowing down a bit. So yeah, it's definitely related. Pushed me in that direction. Tahnee: (04:29) I don't know a lot about the art and craft of it beyond that it's this incredible mix of alchemy and chemistry, and then nuance, your own olfactory perceptions and how you weave things together. But is it a slow process for you, pulling together a scent, or is that something that comes really quickly, or how does it work for you? Sondrine Kehoe: (04:54) I'd probably say a little bit of both. Definitely mainly slow. There's a couple of perfumes that have taken a couple of months to create, but a lot of them take years really, of just slightly altering 1.1 Mil less of something. I think it's definitely a slow process. And the ageing process in itself is slow with them, and they do change after you allow them to age for six months or so. Tahnee: (05:31) Yeah, I found that super interesting, just researching perfumes, that like wine, they age and they get better, different. What's your thoughts on that? Is there an appropriate use phase? Sondrine Kehoe: (05:47) Definitely. I think you can definitely draw that analogy between wine making and perfumery, particularly with botanical perfumery, and you have these really dynamic, alive essential oils you're working with, and absolutes that are in themselves like perfumes, really. Sondrine Kehoe: (06:08) So each oil is made up of hundreds and hundreds of different volatile chemical compounds, and so when you mix them all together and put them in a base of... So we use spiritus vini, which is grape alcohol... There's these chemical reactions that occur between all the essential oils, and that's what creates that... On the nose, you'll notice it becomes smoother, rounder, less sharp notes sticking out. They kind of do become fuller bodied. And sometimes- Tahnee: (06:47) Yeah, like wine. Sondrine Kehoe: (06:48) Yeah, it is. It's really similar to wine. Tahnee: (06:55) So with the spiritus vini... I guess I'm not super familiar with how a more commercial perfume is made. Years ago I stopped using them because they made me sick. If I sprayed... I can't remember... I bought one when I was in my early 20s and every time I sprayed it I'd sneeze for about half an hour, and then I'd feel really nauseous. So I stopped using them. Tahnee: (07:20) And I kind of just started moving more toward essential oils and things anyway. And we spoke a little bit off camera about that, but I was really researching essential oils, realising how potent they are, and you know maybe not to be liberally applying, as I was at the time. So what's the role of the spiritus vini? Is it like a preservative or a carrier, or how does it hold the perfume? Sondrine Kehoe: (07:45) I guess its role is a little bit of everything. So essential oils, and absolutes, and all of their aromatic materials we use can't be applied directly to skin. So you have to follow and know their safe skin concentration limit to, as best as you can, make sure that no one's going to have a reaction to the product. Sondrine Kehoe: (08:14) And so partly it's a dilutant, but alcohol does also preserve the fragrance. But the main thing I love about it is that it actually projects the fragrance. So as you put it on, the alcohol rises, evaporates off your skin, and it really gives that lift, especially to the top notes of the fragrance. So that's why we chose to work with it rather than do oil based perfumes. I just love how it makes the fragrance smell, and how you experience it. Tahnee: (08:52) Yeah, and my guess is that quality of when you apply it, your body's warm and there's that mixing of you and the perfume [crosstalk 00:09:01] Sondrine Kehoe: (09:01) Yeah, that's a whole other thing, isn't it? It's amazing. You smell it on[crosstalk 00:09:09] Tahnee: (09:10) Yeah, and I'm like, "It doesn't smell the same on you." Sondrine Kehoe: (09:13) Yeah, it mixes with your own body chemistry. And even the climate as well... So you'll notice, in warm weather, it might be slightly different to, say, winter. It's so alive, isn't it? Living organism of perfume. Tahnee: (09:33) Yeah, and I guess like if you're... Because I know you're really interested in the microbiome, and I wonder if you could speak a little bit to that, in terms of those more synthetic fragrances, and then how something like Cygnet would work. Is it more microbiome friendly to work with more natural products? Is there a correlation there between keeping our skin happy and... Sondrine Kehoe: (09:57) Yeah. So I guess my interest in the microbiome happened when I studied midwifery. That was when I first learned about it. Because our microbiome is seeded at birth, obviously. And that sent me into a whole research spiral, and I just fell in love with it, and had always planned on launching skincare. Sondrine Kehoe: (10:22) So we launched, at the start of this year, the regenerative skincare line which is all microbiome friendly. And with perfume, products that can influence the microbiome in a negative way can be natural or synthetic. So it can be either, because there are definitely essential oils that are really highly anti microbial, like tea tree oil. That's an example. Tahnee: (10:53) Oregano. Sondrine Kehoe: (10:54) Yeah, oregano. Exactly. And so in concentrations that are really high, they can also affect the good bacteria that we want to keep on our skin. But then there are also oils that are selectively anti microbial. And so they'll target the pathogens, the bad ones we don't want, but still allow the others to thrive. So with the perfumes, they are alcohol based. And alcohol is obviously... Tahnee: (11:29) We've learned about that this year. Sondrine Kehoe: (11:30) Yeah, we learned about that, and I think we can all feel that, with all the sanitizer we're applying as well, that it's not a great thing for our microbiome. But it's needed sometimes. So it's something that I would love to integrate further with our fragrance line, as we grow. Sondrine Kehoe: (11:49) The key thing with it, that I wanted, was... You'll note that they're all applied the traditional way. Because they're extraits, we dab them. We don't spray them. And so they're applied to a really tiny surface area of your skin. So I definitely wouldn't claim that they are going to benefit your microbiome. But I would have to leave it to the experts to... Tahnee: (12:22) Yeah, but I guess that makes a lot of sense, that you're not like spraying this mist all over you, that's going to hit multiple parts of the body. Sondrine Kehoe: (12:32) Yeah, definitely. But it certainly has different benefits too, wearing as, say, a synthetic fragrance. Tahnee: (12:41) Yeah and I mean, your skincare... I just received some the other day. I just opened it this morning. It's beautiful. [crosstalk 00:12:47] So I'm looking forward to having used it for a little while, but I'm really interested in your work around that, because there's a hydrosol product with the seaweed extract in it, which looks [crosstalk 00:13:03] And then I've got the serum. So I'm interested, how did that come about? What's your process with putting that together? Sondrine Kehoe: (13:10) So I was working on that for quite some time. We called the line Regenerative Skin Care because we follow a philosophy where each product has three criteria that it has to meet. So we source all our ingredients direct from farmers, producers, distillers, scientists that are using regenerative, organic or bio dynamic practises. And they have to be microbiome friendly for our skin. And then also we plant a tree with each one sold. Sondrine Kehoe: (13:48) So the whole concept is that it's meant to regenerate the microbes both on our skin and on the earth, through biodiversity. And it's been an amazing journey. I've just met so many incredible producers and distillers. So most of our ingredients are sourced within Australia, and then there's a couple internationally. But it's been so nice to connect with these amazing people, and definitely been one of my favourite experiences so far in the business. So it kind of emerged from that. Sondrine Kehoe: (14:29) And so at the moment, there's only two products, a serum and an elixir, I guess you could call it. It's a mist. And we're also slowly working on a cleanser. But it will always be really minimal, because if you're into microbiome friendly skincare, you'll know you don't need much for your skin. A minimal routine is best. Tahnee: (14:57) Yeah. Leave it alone. Sondrine Kehoe: (14:59) Exactly. And as little ingredients as you can, just of really high quality. But the ingredients that have made these products, I've fallen in love with. You mentioned the seaweed extract. So that's one from a company in Hobart, Tasmania. And it's wakame seaweed that they collect from Patagonia, as well as a little bit on the coast of Tazzy. And they organically extract it in their lab. Sondrine Kehoe: (15:34) And they work, I think, with a university nearby them. So they've done some really amazing studies on this product they create, and it's just really an incredible extract for the skin, and for the microbiome as well. Tahnee: (15:49) I'm excited to see that, because I think seaweed's just such an incredible... I know they're kind of weird plant animal things. [crosstalk 00:16:06] But they're such an amazing boon for humans and the planet. It's really exciting to see them getting a bit more time in the public arena. Sondrine Kehoe: (16:16) Yeah, it is, isn't it? Tahnee: (16:17) Yeah. And so I was really curious about where Cygnet came from. Because it's a baby goose, but is that your relationship with it? Is it a baby goose [crosstalk 00:16:31] Sondrine Kehoe: (16:31) Funnily enough, it basically is. So a cygnet's a baby swan. Tahnee: (16:36) Baby swan. Sondrine Kehoe: (16:36) It's slightly different from a goose. Tahnee: (16:37) Yeah, no, gosling. Of course. Sondrine Kehoe: (16:38) Same, same. Tahnee: (16:40) [crosstalk 00:16:40] my baby brain. Sondrine Kehoe: (16:42) We were just in Sydney, feeding baby swans, cygnets... Tahnee: (16:45) Oh, were you? Sondrine Kehoe: (16:45) ... And my daughter was like, "What's a baby swan called?" And I was like, "It's called a cygnet." Yeah, anyway. Tahnee: (16:49) They're so cute. Sondrine Kehoe: (16:49) Yeah, they're sweet, aren't they? So my loved ones all call me swan. So that's how it came... And then Cygnet obviously evolved after I became a mother. So we were chatting one evening, and the name came about. Tahnee: (17:11) It's so beautiful. And all of your branding, all of its really... I can just tell how much your attention to detail and that alchemy has sort of carried through the whole range. Sondrine Kehoe: (17:24) Oh, thank you. Tahnee: (17:26) It's really beautiful to experience it. Sondrine Kehoe: (17:26) That's lovely. Tahnee: (17:29) Like that paper, I swear, every time I get it I'm like- Sondrine Kehoe: (17:31) Yeah, isn't it amazing? I just keep it but I don't know what I'm doing with it. Tahnee: (17:35) That paper's called lokta paper, and it's a traditional Nepalese paper that is made from a plant there. But it's beautiful. Sondrine Kehoe: (17:46) It is. It's really, really special. And so tell me a little bit about... Do you do some of the distillation stuff yourself, or are you... I mean, I'm thinking about time. How long do these take you? Tahnee: (18:02) I know. I would love to. It's definitely a big hobby of mine. I was lucky enough to go and have a day distilling with one of my producers, who distils the rosemary hydrosol for me. And it was amazing, learning about distilling. Tahnee: (18:22) I'd love to eventually get a still and have a go myself. But I think it would be a big learning process, and I'm very fussy with my sourcing. And the oils that I'm working with, just of a calibre that would probably take me years to figure out how to distil them as well. So I'll leave it to the experts for now. Tahnee: (18:46) But I do some things in house, so using an old method called enfleurage, where you use a bit of fat... I use organic shea butter... And it's for flowers that are too fragile to distil as an essential oil. So maybe like violets and- Sondrine Kehoe: (19:12) Jasmine and rose. Tahnee: (19:13) Yeah. All of those beautiful ones. So you lay them on the fat, and you have to change them every day, at least 30 times. So it's a really slow process. And then you wash them [crosstalk 00:19:25] Yeah, exactly. So I do do that. I enjoy all those slow processes. And I also make tinctures. So with the spiritus vini, you can extract certain materials as a tincture, and then age them as well, separately to the perfume. Sondrine Kehoe: (19:47) So you're using those tinctures in the perfume, as a part of [crosstalk 00:19:50] Tahnee: (19:50) I am. Yeah, as a part of the base. Some of them are really strong, so they don't constitute the whole base. So for example, Vigneron, which I think you just would have got. Is that right? [crosstalk 00:20:06] Oh no. End of the year [crosstalk 00:20:10] December, sorry. That has a- Sondrine Kehoe: (20:08) Sneak preview. Tahnee: (20:13) That all started from a tincture I made of heritage roses from a vineyard nearby. Sondrine Kehoe: (20:18) Oh, wow. Tahnee: (20:19) Yeah, so that's beautiful. And it also has an oak barrel tincture as well. So it's a lot of fun. I think alchemy's one of the things that I'm just super into, and I feel like perfume [crosstalk 00:20:36] really old art, that if you go back all the way through human history, we've been playing with scents. Because there's that really primitive sense of how much scent brings forth memory, and brings forth really subtle layers of our consciousness. Is there a scent for you that's really meaningful, that holds... Sondrine Kehoe: (20:59) A lot of memory? Tahnee: (21:00) Yeah, [crosstalk 00:21:03] You've worked with a lot of really powerful scents in your range. Sondrine Kehoe: (21:05) Yeah, definitely. I think whenever that happens it always takes me by surprise. So recalling something comes to mind right now, but [crosstalk 00:21:20] you'll get a smell of a perfume. Someone's walking by, and you'll smell what they're wearing, and instantly [crosstalk 00:21:27] taken back to another loved one. But I'm trying to think... Tahnee: (21:36) It's probably all hand sanitizer right now. Sondrine Kehoe: (21:39) Yeah. Well actually, the hand sanitizer brings me back to the birth suite. [crosstalk 00:21:43] so I kind of have this nostalgic love for the smell. Tahnee: (21:48) That's really charming. Delivering babies. Sondrine Kehoe: (21:52) Exactly, yeah. And it's funny like that. I think it's the strongest sense we have that's connected to emotion and memories. It has a really powerful ability to bring back memories. A lot of the time it might just be things like cooking, I think, will often bring me back to my childhood. A certain dish that my mum would make. Tahnee: (22:17) Yeah, even stuff you've eaten overseas. Smelling- Sondrine Kehoe: (22:19) Yeah. Is there something for you? Tahnee: (22:24) I have a thing for vetiver because... This is a weird story, but I had an eating disorder in my late teens and early 20s. I was very disembodied, and I worked with this woman for a really long time who would rub vetiver all over her hands before she worked on me. And the first time I ever remember feeling my body, all I could smell was vetiver, and it's just this very- Sondrine Kehoe: (22:49) Wow. What a powerful memory. Tahnee: (22:51) Yeah, it's a really grounding smell. Every time I smell it now I'm like [crosstalk 00:22:59] Sondrine Kehoe: (22:59) And it's distilled from roots as well. So that's [crosstalk 00:23:02] Tahnee: (23:02) Is it? Sondrine Kehoe: (23:03) Yeah [crosstalk 00:23:04] Tahnee: (23:03) So that makes sense. Really earthy. But I've always liked spag bol and things like that. Sondrine Kehoe: (23:12) I know. It's always those simple things. Manila or all those. Tahnee: (23:18) Or certain incense. I used to own a yoga studio, so there's times when I would light a certain type of incense I'd be like, "That reminds me of that space." [crosstalk 00:23:28] I find perfume [crosstalk 00:23:31] Sondrine Kehoe: (23:31) Definitely. I love using scent purposefully, to bring you back to a certain way of feeling, or a time. And using new scents that you haven't smelled before to help establish a memory, I think's really beautiful. Tahnee: (23:51) Yeah, like creating a new pathway. Sondrine Kehoe: (23:52) Yeah. Tahnee: (23:54) Is your daughter interested in this process at all? Sondrine Kehoe: (23:57) Yeah, she is. She's already doing it in the garden. Tahnee: (24:02) Has she created anything interesting yet? Sondrine Kehoe: (24:08) Yeah, she's my prodigy. The pressure's on her. No, she definitely loves exploring, and I can't wait till she's... She's only three, but when she gets to the age where she's able to tinker around at my perfume organ and play with all the oils. I can't wait to see what she creates. She's definitely very interested in it. Tahnee: (24:33) But is she more in the mud and petals stage? Sondrine Kehoe: (24:37) She's still in the mud and petals stage. Tahnee: (24:41) My daughter [inaudible 00:24:43] not a nice smell, but I'm very proud of you for trying. Sondrine Kehoe: (24:49) Yeah, definitely. Tahnee: (24:49) And are you using a lot of traditional... I mean, my understanding of perfumery is a lot of, I guess, our more modern processes out of the French style, I guess, that I know. [crosstalk 00:25:06] Sondrine Kehoe: (25:05) Yeah, for sure. It is, yeah. So the processes we use are inspired by, I guess, the golden age of perfumery in France, which was around 16th to 18th Century, I think, before synthetic molecules were discovered. And there were these beautiful perfumes. A lot of them were made up of hundreds of different essential oils. And they would also use... The spiritus vini comes from there too, a particular distillation of grape alcohol. Sondrine Kehoe: (25:44) And the style, extrait de parfum, is also a French style that's the most concentrated, purest form of scent, and why I really love that intimate physical process of applying it directly to your skin, rather than spraying. [crosstalk 00:26:07] Tahnee: (26:07) I totally agree with that. It's very sensual, and slow, and [crosstalk 00:26:13] in putting it on. And I mean, I guess, is that tradition... I'm interested in how... Are you looking at Australian botanicals, and going, "Well, how do I weave..." Sondrine Kehoe: (26:27) Definitely. Tahnee: (26:28) I don't know how they'd play with your perfume. Sondrine Kehoe: (26:32) Yeah, so influenced by those old traditions but then weaving in more contemporary insights and methods, and I guess disrupting a little bit what the tradition of perfume is. Tahnee: (26:46) Go, girl. Sondrine Kehoe: (26:46) So I've used some beautiful Australian oils, and at the moment I've got a really gorgeous duo of oils from a distiller in New South Wales that I've been slowly working on. Sondrine Kehoe: (27:05) I find one of my favourite scents is the smell of the bush by the beach, but it's something that [crosstalk 00:27:11] hard to capture.So I've been working on something for years, but I'm still not happy. It's hard to do it justice. Tahnee: (27:19) Because I guess you've got so many layers of nuance, and that [inaudible 00:27:26] fresh, seaweedy, and then [crosstalk 00:27:28] Sondrine Kehoe: (27:28) Exactly. Tahnee: (27:30) And you guys are on the Mornington Peninsula, right? Sondrine Kehoe: (27:32) We are. Tahnee: (27:32) So you've got the proper Aussie bush. Sondrine Kehoe: (27:35) Exactly. We are. We're on a little beach town here. And we're on five acres, so there's mainly tea tree on the property where we are. Tahnee: (27:45) Lovely. Sondrine Kehoe: (27:46) And the smell of that sandy soil and the tea tree when the sun warms it up, it's so beautiful. We've got some amazing oils coming from Australia, particularly our Australian sandalwood as well. Tahnee: (28:01) Is that sort of an emerging industry here? Because I think it seems like these big oil companies, which we don't need to name names, but we know who they are... Then there's all these little people who are just quite small. Is it hard to compete with these kind of big, MLM, global operations? Sondrine Kehoe: (28:29) Yeah, definitely. So like the artisan distillers... There's definitely a bit of a monopoly on the oil industry. And a lot of politics, and also sustainability issues as well, with sourcing. It's something that we're super careful of. Sondrine Kehoe: (28:53) I'd love to be able to source everything direct like we do with skincare, for fragrance, but we make our batches in really small quantities that are released once a year, so it's just not viable for the producers of these oils to sell them in such small quantities. Sondrine Kehoe: (29:13) So we work with three different suppliers. One of them mainly sources from artisan distillers, which is really nice because it's a completely different product. For example, vetiver, you will smell three different oils and they'll smell completely different depending on where they're grown or who's distilled them, what the climate was like that year. Sondrine Kehoe: (29:39) And so here in Australia, it's definitely starting to grow a bit bigger. I would say the main oils that are coming out of Australia for the perfume industry are Australian sandalwood, particularly because sandalwood's an endangered species. Sondrine Kehoe: (30:00) So we used to use Sandalwood coming out of India, but basically the sandalwood trees there got just decimated by the perfume industry and essential oil industry, which is really sad, and something to be wary of when you're buying oils. So we don't use any endangered species in our perfumes. Sondrine Kehoe: (30:22) And the other oil that comes out of here... It's actually an absolute... Is called boronia, and it's a tiny little brown flower. I'm not sure if you've ever heard of it. Tahnee: (30:32) Yeah, is it like the little succulenty kind of- Sondrine Kehoe: (30:35) It does look a little bit like that, and it looks a bit like a bell, the flower. Tahnee: (30:39) Yeah, I think I grow some. Sondrine Kehoe: (30:41) Yeah, I know. One mil of that is about usually $60. [crosstalk 00:30:49] Yeah, exactly. Tahnee: (30:52) So what's it smell like? What's its notes? How would you describe it? Sondrine Kehoe: (30:58) It's really beautiful and unique. It's like a perfume in its own right. It's kind of like... Tahnee: (31:04) Kind of a floral- Sondrine Kehoe: (31:05) Floral but a little bit fruity. So we don't currently have a perfume with it in there, but it's definitely on the cards.[crosstalk 00:31:16] Yeah, I get too excited. All these different projects running at once. Tahnee: (31:21) Yeah, I mean, I think we're very similar here. We always have 500 things in the pipeline that never seem to make the light of day. But it's a really interesting thing with sustainability, because again, in researching the essential oil industry a few years ago, I was just pretty devastated with how... And I mean, even the spiritual community, like palo santo and all of the things that we... Sondrine Kehoe: (31:44) Yeah, I know. Tahnee: (31:46) ... Everyone burns in their [crosstalk 00:31:47] White sage is getting destroyed. And I was reading a lot about frankincense in Africa and [crosstalk 00:31:59] Sondrine Kehoe: (31:59) Yeah. The same with that as well. Yeah, I think there's not enough awareness about it, perhaps. And I think maybe people think that when you're buying online, that it's all of the same calibre and produced in the same way. And even the amount of oils that are fake essential oils online as well is really shocking. You definitely want to know who your supplier is. Tahnee: (32:33) And I noticed that with your perfume, it's so viscous, compared to even good quality organic perfumes and stuff I've bought, there's a real... Viscosity's only word I can think of. It's a really deep texture and substance to it. And really rich smells. Tahnee: (32:54) And I think there's something... The first time I ever got a vial... I think it was the [inaudible 00:32:59] It was the first one I got, and I was like, "Whoa. This is a very different experience to all the other ones I've ever bought." Which are mostly from health food stores or small makers. They're probably the oil based ones that you were talking about earlier. Tahnee: (33:12) But I can sort of tell that... And I've noticed that with buying essential oils. You can see how the concentration and how the colour and the smell... And there's a real difference in quality. Sondrine Kehoe: (33:23) Yeah, for sure there is, isn't there? Tahnee: (33:27) [inaudible 00:33:27] Are there any sort of companies for the public that you like? Like Australian based? Sondrine Kehoe: (33:32) Yeah, for sure. Well, Australian based, I have bought from Ahimsa, and I've been pretty happy with them. Really happy. And our biggest essential oil distributors here would maybe, I'd say, be... There's New Directions or Auroma. Sondrine Kehoe: (33:54) I don't buy too much from them so I'm not quite sure. I can't really make a comment about them. But I find it quite hard to source within Australia, and so my two main suppliers Hermitage in Italy and Eden Botanicals in America, to be completely transparent, if anyone wants to check them out. Tahnee: (34:23) I've bought from Eden in America when I've been over there. And in my research, a lot of the better companies did seem to be the European based, because they were- Sondrine Kehoe: (34:35) Yeah. I think it's also to do with... I've been trying to get a few oils direct, and dealing with customs is another world. Tahnee: (34:47) I know all about that. Sondrine Kehoe: (34:47) And the taxes you pay on top of it. So I think it is really hard for a business here to offer that kind of array of products within Australia. But I really love the values of both of those companies, and completely trust how they test and source their products. But I'd love to hear if anyone's had some good experiences here as well. I know there's another company called earthYARD which is relatively new. Tahnee: (35:24) Yeah, I've heard of them. Sondrine Kehoe: (35:27) They're really transparent with where they source as well. So they've got quite a small range of essential oils, but also carrier oils as well. Tahnee: (35:37) And so can you explain that concept for people who don't understand? You said before that you don't want to put pure, unadulterated... That's not the right word but you know what I mean... Pure essential oil on your skin. Acupuncture brain fry. Tahnee: (35:57) My friend... My gosh... He literally burned himself. I can't remember what he put on his skin, but then he went out in the sun, and he had third degree burns. Sondrine Kehoe: (36:05) Oh, no. Oh, the poor thing. Tahnee: (36:10) One must be careful. Sondrine Kehoe: (36:10) So oils that can do that particularly, are bergamot and certain citruses. It's called they're phototoxic, so if you go out into the sun wearing them, then [crosstalk 00:36:25] So yeah, definitely don't play around with oils at home undiluted. Sondrine Kehoe: (36:34) So there's a perfume body called IFRA, and they set the rules for how much of both synthetic and natural ingredients can go into a perfume at a safe skin level. There's a lot of maybe discussion around whether those rules are right or not. And in Australia we don't actually have to follow what they do, but in countries like in Europe, you do. To sell your fragrances you have to follow those guidelines. Sondrine Kehoe: (37:12) And I've chosen to follow them, just because it does set out a safe level so that people are less likely to have an allergic reaction. And particularly with those phototoxic essential oils, how much can you put in the perfume without someone going out into the sun after and getting a terrible burn like that. [crosstalk 00:37:35] it's something you definitely don't want your customers to experience. Sondrine Kehoe: (37:40) So their guidelines are all available to the public, and it's definitely interesting to read if you're going down the route of learning about perfumery as well. And then also, there's lots of great aromatherapy resources that also go into safe skin levels. Tahnee: (38:04) Yeah, because I grew up reading my mum's aromatherapy books. They were in my house. Sondrine Kehoe: (38:11) That's so nice. Tahnee: (38:12) Yeah, but I remember being like... You'd never put anything on straight. Even [crosstalk 00:38:18] you'd put in a carrier oil or something. And then 10 years ago everyone starts getting really into essential oils, and dabbing them on everything. And I was like, "Maybe I'm missing something in my learning about this." And what you're saying about the microbiome as well. They can be very powerful. Sondrine Kehoe: (38:40) Yeah, they are. I think that's the important thing, that just because it's natural or organic doesn't mean it's formulated in a way that's safe for your skin, or particularly for your microbiome. That's still such a new and emerging field of research. And I think skincare will all head there. I just think that that's the future of skincare. But slowly. There's a lot of work to be done there. Tahnee: (39:09) Yeah, they don't realise that they're actually part of the plant's hormones. I don't know if you've ever read... Obviously Perfume and Jitterbug Perfume, any of those books around perfume? Have you? Sondrine Kehoe: (39:25) I've read... What's that classic one? [crosstalk 00:39:30] Yeah, it's great. Patrick Suskind. Is that right? Tahnee: (39:33) Yeah, I think that's right. There's another book called Jitterbug Perfume, which is by Tom Robbins, which is not as well known, but it's one of my favourites. Sondrine Kehoe: (39:41) Okay. I've heard of that, actually, I've been meaning to read it. Is it good? Tahnee: (39:45) It's amazing. It's very absurd he's trying to capture the fragrance of beet at one point. Sondrine Kehoe: (39:52) Oh wow. Tahnee: (39:56) It goes all through New Orleans and France and Seattle, and all these different places. But just that idea of the essential oil being like the blood or the essence of the plant. Sondrine Kehoe: (40:07) Yeah, definitely. Tahnee: (40:07) Can you speak at all to that? Because I find that such a fascinating idea. Sondrine Kehoe: (40:16) Yeah, definitely. I do see it like the essence of the plant for sure. Especially when you're in the room, when it's being distilled. Being in that room, and when Bridget from Granite Bar Rosemary was distilling the rosemary, there's just an energy in the room as well when you start smelling it come through this amazing old copper... Tahnee: (40:43) Still. Sondrine Kehoe: (40:43) Yeah, still. It does have this really amazing feeling, and the oils do feel so alive as well. And that ties in to the old alchemy as well, doesn't it? Extracting that... Tahnee: (41:00) Yeah, that very essence of... Sondrine Kehoe: (41:03) Yeah, the very essence of the plant. Tahnee: (41:05) And then what, I guess, a privilege that is, to have access to that. Sondrine Kehoe: (41:09) Oh, it is. Tahnee: (41:10) And [crosstalk 00:41:10] it just becomes this whole story. Sondrine Kehoe: (41:15) For sure. We try and treat it with that respect as well. That's part of the whole reason of releasing really small batch, and only once a year, and not just producing in mass production, to make as much profit as you can out of these amazing plants that I feel like we have the privilege to work with. Tahnee: (41:39) Yeah, I mean, herbalism's the same for us. It's this funny dance between... You want people to experience the magic, and then at the same time it's like we have to respect what's realistic within the capacity of these plants to be spread around the world. Sondrine Kehoe: (41:59) Yeah, what you can harvest. Tahnee: (42:01) Yeah. And I think about that a lot with all of these things we consume for pleasure, beauty, health. It's easy to just be like take, take, take, and at some point... I love that idea that you have that regenerative... Tahnee: (42:18) And I know you guys pay the rent as well, like we do. We support a company that buys land to regenerate, and we pay the rent, and give to some indigenous communities. Tahnee: (42:29) But it's just this idea that... Mason and I have always talked about it, where it's like the plants give us so much. It's the least we can do to give back in some way. Sondrine Kehoe: (42:37) Yeah, definitely. The business model needs a lot of shaking up, doesn't it? Tahnee: (42:42) Yeah. And I think there's people like yourself, and I'm starting to see... I mean, I think the internet is a blessing and a curse, but it provides this forum for us, especially... I mean, we're still a small business... To really get out there and be seen by people, and not have to go through these big distributor channels. And you get to have direct relationships with customers [crosstalk 00:43:06] Sondrine Kehoe: (43:06) Yeah, it's so nice, isn't it? It makes it all really worth it, especially that direct relation with your customers. Tahnee: (43:07) And so what does that look like for you guys? I mean, I saw you wrote somewhere that you had a five year plan. What's Cygnet's journey looking like? Is it [crosstalk 00:43:28] Sondrine Kehoe: (43:30) Well, it's always evolving. And it's definitely heading in the direction of... The immediate goal is broadening our range of skincare offerings, and continuing to establish those relationships with farmers, growers, distillers around here. Sondrine Kehoe: (43:53) And then the dream would be to have a regenerative farm. I think that's more of a 10 year goal. I'd absolutely love to head in that direction, and have an aromatic garden as well, and be able to produce more ingredients for perfumes. Sondrine Kehoe: (44:15) But it's all still growing, and the business is growing with my family. And this little bub's on the way, due in October. And I'm sure that everything will change again. It's been a really nice way to do business. Just take the pressure off constantly producing more, and those concepts of success and everything, and just slowly grow it with how the family's [crosstalk 00:44:53] Tahnee: (44:53) I mean, how do you define that for yourself? Is this just something that lights you up, and you feel successful just seeing it come to life? When you have that farm, will that be the thing that makes you feel like you've really made it, or have you- Sondrine Kehoe: (45:09) Feel like you've got there? Tahnee: (45:11) Yeah. Because I think about that a lot with us. I'm still not sure sometimes. I feel like we've achieved so much and I could kick back, and I'm like, "I'm good." Sondrine Kehoe: (45:19) Yeah, and then do you think, "Where would I like to grow from here"? Tahnee: (45:24) [crosstalk 00:45:24] we just did a process with our team where we did a five year plan, and the team were dreaming up that we had a wellness centre, where people could come and heal. And listening to them all talk about their dreams for what SuperFeast could become, I was like, "Oh, wow." Tahnee: (45:42) It's really inspiring... Because Mason and I have carried it, like you're probably doing right now... It's ourselves for so long. And now we've got this group of other people that are contributing as well, and it's actually- Sondrine Kehoe: (45:53) That's so exciting. Really special. Tahnee: (45:54) Yeah, it's kind of like you feel that community vision coming through. So anyway, it just got me thinking a lot about, what does it even mean? [crosstalk 00:46:06] Sondrine Kehoe: (46:06) I know. Well that's beautiful. I think that community vision, getting to that place, is somewhere where I'd feel like that's where I wanted to be, is building a community out of what you're doing is so special. And being able to invite other people in to imagine where your business could grow, so it's not just yours. It's as much your customers. And then inviting people in to work with you is so nice, having that team. So probably, when I had a beautiful team like that I would be feeling like, "Wow." Tahnee: (46:45) It is. It's definitely a really challenging part of business too. I'm not going to lie. But I find, for me, it's probably the most rewarding part too, is... It sounds trite but it literally feels like family. The people we've worked with for... I've been here for six years, so people I've worked through that whole time. And there's something very special for me about those relationships, and the stuff we've all been through. Sondrine Kehoe: (47:13) That's nice. Tahnee: (47:15) Yeah. And just how they dream SuperFeast to life every day as well. Sondrine Kehoe: (47:19) Yeah, that's amazing. It's so nice. [inaudible 00:47:24] Tahnee: (47:24) Yeah, well, I think it's similar... We've always talked about preserving land and trying to... Even, we want to bring the Australian indigenous herbs to market. It seems like an impossible dream in some ways, because we've been working with the TGA for a few years now, and it's just such an ordeal. Sondrine Kehoe: (47:47) Oh, wow. Yeah, I can imagine. Tahnee: (47:50) But it's possible. It's just you've got to keep [crosstalk 00:47:52] consistent. Tahnee: (47:54) Keep your vision and keep persevering. Yeah [crosstalk 00:47:58] And I've got this feeling, even in these times when, especially with COVID and all this stuff going on, that the earth is dreaming her dream too, and we're all a part of that. And I think there's a lot of beauty and small pockets emerging of sustainable, positive, really earth focused business. And it feels good. I try to stay in that space, and not go into, "Oh my god, the world's going to end." Sondrine Kehoe: (48:33) Yeah, it's nice to kind of use that rage, or what you're feeling, despair, or hate, and try and turn that into positive action, isn't it? Tahnee: (48:49) Yeah, [crosstalk 00:48:52] use your business to make a stand for the things that you believe in and preserve [crosstalk 00:48:57] Sondrine Kehoe: (48:56) Yeah, definitely. I think there's always room for that in what you're doing. Definitely. I feel like it gives it purpose. [crosstalk 00:49:09] Is there more skincare... Is that just the cleanser at this point, or you're going to do [crosstalk 00:49:17] Sondrine Kehoe: (49:16) Definitely always kind of dreaming about more little things, but [crosstalk 00:49:23] I think that, realistically, it'll be the cleanser this year, that's coming, and that's coming along really beautifully. And then slowly build it from there. Sondrine Kehoe: (49:38) Also, I'd love to be doing more one-off perfumes. I've got all these old flacons that I've collected since I was a girl, and I'd love to do one-off perfumes with that. But with pregnancy actually, I haven't been able to work with my oils. Tahnee: (49:53) That was literally going to be one of my questions, because I have been illegally dabbing. Sondrine Kehoe: (49:59) Sorry? Tahnee: (50:00) I've been using a little bit. I just said illegally dabbing. Sondrine Kehoe: (50:06) You can always, as well, put them on like a hankie or something, or clothing. Tahnee: (50:10) Yeah, I'm trying to be very mindful. But I was thinking, would you mind speaking a little bit to that? What's the rationale around pregnancy, and avoiding- Sondrine Kehoe: (50:20) Avoiding essential oils? Tahnee: (50:21) Yeah. Sondrine Kehoe: (50:22) So, particularly important in the first trimester, when your baby and your placenta and everything are still forming. There really just isn't enough research to say what a safe concentration level of essential oil is, obviously for ethical reasons. You can't really do a study saying that. So the best thing is just to avoid them. Sondrine Kehoe: (50:50) I think there's a very small list of safe essential oils. They're still advised not to be used in the first trimester. Some of them have really powerful effects, you'll know, even on your menstrual cycle. They've got the ability to cause contractions and- Tahnee: (51:09) [inaudible 00:51:09] Sondrine Kehoe: (51:09) Yeah, exactly. So they are really powerful ingredients. Also, just personally as well, with smell, anything that's strong sets me off. Tahnee: (51:26) Very unfortunate for a perfumer. Sondrine Kehoe: (51:28) It is. It's really funny having a ridiculously heightened sense of smell... I can smell things from miles away... And not being able to work at the perfume organ. It's slightly annoying, actually. But that's one thing I'm super excited about, is getting back to creating perfumes again, once this [crosstalk 00:51:49] Yeah, exactly. Tahnee: (51:56) I would love, if you don't mind, just before we sign off, sharing a little bit about... You said you had your daughter at home. You're a midwife, so I assume you've trained in all aspects of midwifery? Sondrine Kehoe: (52:08) Yeah. I actually still call myself a student midwife, because I had my daughter a semester out from finishing my degree. And was still really lucky to attend a lot of births. You do a lot of placement during your degree, and work with lots of beautiful midwives and pregnant women, and also learn how to have access to all the research as well. Sondrine Kehoe: (52:43) And I can solely put it down to doing midwifery that I had confidence to birth and confidence in my body that I could birth my daughter at home as well. So I'm so grateful that I found myself doing midwifery. It was a really beautiful experience. Me and my sister, as I said, both had our babies at home together with the same midwives. Tahnee: (53:09) That's so beautiful. Sondrine Kehoe: (53:11) And they were joking we'd go at the same time. Tahnee: (53:12) Be nice and convenient. Sondrine Kehoe: (53:13) So it didn't happen. They come when they want. So I did have her at home, and I've got the same beautiful midwife again, another one who's gorgeous, this time. So we'll be having this one at home as well. [crosstalk 00:53:34] Did I read that you had a home birth too? Is that right? Tahnee: (53:37) Yeah, my daughter was at home. So we live in a different house now, but in South Golden, where we live now. Which is really cute. We walk to the beach and I'm like, "That's where you were born." And she's always like [crosstalk 00:53:50] Sondrine Kehoe: (53:49) That's so nice. Tahnee: (53:53) Yeah, it's really cute. Sondrine Kehoe: (53:55) That's nice, isn't it? Tahnee: (53:56) Yeah, and the woman who owns the place is still a friend. So it's very nice. And I guess my mum always spoke of birth as... This sounds terrible but she's like, "We're animals. Animals give birth." Sondrine Kehoe: (54:11) That's not terrible at all. Tahnee: (54:12) They just do it. Sondrine Kehoe: (54:13) That's true. Tahnee: (54:14) Sounds very non romantic. Horses don't lie down on their backs and birth. They walk around and then they squat. Sondrine Kehoe: (54:22) We watched videos in our uni of animals giving birth. Tahnee: (54:26) Oh, did you? There you go. So I guess I had a lot of faith in that biologically, physiologically sound birth. And we're really fortunate in this area, to have a midwifery programme through the hospital that... Sondrine Kehoe: (54:42) Yeah, that's amazing. [crosstalk 00:54:43] Tahnee: (54:43) ... Allows for home birth. Yeah, so if you're no risk and tick all the boxes, you can do it. So we were really grateful for that. Sondrine Kehoe: (54:52) That's great. Tahnee: (54:53) Because that was a time when SuperFeast was not that big and we were very poor. Sondrine Kehoe: (54:56) No, it's not accessible, which is really sad. In Melbourne, I know there's at least one hospital that offers the home birth programme, in Sunshine Hospital, but you have to live within 30 minutes drive. Tahnee: (55:12) Yeah, so it's the same here. You have to be within shooting distance of the hospital. And I think they get so many people apply. I think there's a team of 10 midwives. So I think they give priority to women who've worked with them before, and then women that live in the area, and then they will take, occasionally, people outside. But I just think that I'd love to see more of those kinds of systems. There are some. I know there's a handful around the country. Sondrine Kehoe: (55:44) Yeah, there's a lot of challenges facing midwives, and home birth midwives in particular, that you'd be well aware of. It's a whole other. Tahnee: (55:58) Yeah, well we had a woman called [Cheryl Siri 00:56:01] on the podcast, who used to be a home birth midwife. And [Jane Hardwick Collings 00:56:06] as well, who I'm studying with. And just their stories... It's a really challenging time to be- Sondrine Kehoe: (56:14) It is, but at the same time, there's so much research supporting it, and particularly coming out now, in very baby steps in that direction. There's a lot of support for continuity of care. So when you have one midwife that whole pregnancy. Sondrine Kehoe: (56:31) And a lot of hospitals are implementing [crosstalk 00:56:35] continuity of care programmes, but like you said, tyre still tiny. The capacity to take a lot of women in those programmes just isn't there. Tahnee: (56:44) Yeah, you read the statistics... I think there was a study done in the States with 16,000 women or something, and there were no adverse outcomes for home birth. It was just such a positive study on how safe and how it's just such a minimal risk, especially these days. Tahnee: (57:08) I mean, I was talking to someone about this today, where I'm like, "I'm 20 minutes driving slowly to a hospital. They've let the ambulance know I'm having a baby. They've got the [crosstalk 00:57:18] in the fridge if something happens." There's a lot of steps put in place to make sure you're safe as well. It's not just... Tahnee: (57:29) And that's what I also believe. I've had friends that are free birthed, and I think women deserve the right to be educated to choose to have the support if they want it. And I do think it should be- Sondrine Kehoe: (57:39) Yeah, information's key. Tahnee: (57:42) Yeah, and just accessibility, like you're saying, that it's five to seven grand plus for a private midwife is a lot for a lot of people. Sondrine Kehoe: (57:47) Yeah, definitely. Not really affordable. But hopefully it moves in a good direction. [crosstalk 00:57:57] Tahnee: (57:57) Yeah, is that something you'd ever thought of getting back into? Sondrine Kehoe: (58:01) Definitely, yeah. I feel like once you've done it, it's just like... Tahnee: (58:04) Addictive? Sondrine Kehoe: (58:04) Yeah, completely. So I think once the kids have grown up, it's something that I'll go back to. It was too hard with having my little one. The only way to finish the course was to enrol her full time in daycare before one, and so it just wasn't really a possibility for me, or an option. And so I'll definitely go back there once I'm older, for sure. Tahnee: (58:36) Done making your own babies. Sondrine Kehoe: (58:37) Yeah, exactly. Tahnee: (58:39) I think there's something about that experience of having your own births too, that would... I had a student midwife with my home birth, and she'd had two boys fairly recently. She was only a couple of years older than me, and there was something about her being so close in my age, and having just had... It was like really nice to share that. And then also having older midwives who were... Been around the block, had seen everything, really relaxed and really calm. It was a really nice mix. Sondrine Kehoe: (59:07) So nice. Tahnee: (59:09) Good women's business stuff. Sondrine Kehoe: (59:10) Yeah, it is. It felt like that When I got to uni. It was I think over 100 women enrolled in this course. Like Hogwarts. Tahnee: (59:24) Hogwarts for ladies. Sondrine Kehoe: (59:24) Learning all these amazing things. Tahnee: (59:27) Well that's wonderful. I want to thank you so much for spending the time. I know that those last two weeks of pregnancy are exhausting, so I hope you've enjoyed being here with us. Sondrine Kehoe: (59:40) It was so nice. Tahnee: (59:41) Yeah, I'm really grateful because I just really love what you guys are doing, and what you're doing. Sondrine Kehoe: (59:50) Thank you so much. That's lovely. Same goes to you as well. Tahnee: (59:54) Thank you. I love that we get to connect with people through this. I'm like, "This is so good. I get paid to talk to people." [inaudible 00:59:59] So cygnetperfumery.com.au is the best place to find you guys, and online, on Insty? Sondrine Kehoe: (01:00:11) Yeah, we're on Instagram as well, cygnetperfumery [crosstalk 01:00:16] Tahnee: (01:00:16) I can put the links to that. And any other places you want to send people or any other things you want to share? Sondrine Kehoe: (01:00:24) No, I think that was covered beautifully. I think just engaging with your fifth sense. We so often neglect it, and it can bring so much joy. Tahnee: (01:00:36) Yeah, well especially, I think, in these times, what's been so nice for me receiving your parcels is just taking the time, reading the notes, and just having a very different experience. Tahnee: (01:00:52) I mean, we work with smell a lot, with herbs too, but it's not the same pleasurable... It's more around the sort of, "That's good, that's potent, that's strong" Whereas this is like this really beautiful and romantic experience. So I really love what you guys are doing. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:09) That's so nice to hear. Thank you. Tahnee: (01:01:09) Thank you. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:11) Thanks so much for having me on. Tahnee: (01:01:14) Yeah, well I hope you guys check out Sondrine's work, and we'll stay in touch. I'm so excited to continue to try your skincare. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:22) Beautiful. Tahnee: (01:01:22) I just [inaudible 01:01:25] be done. Because I feel like I've been trying all these different things and I'm just getting a bit like, "Ugh." Because I really just want like two or three things in my life. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:35) Yeah, you don't need much, which is the opposite of what the skincare industry will have you believe. Tahnee: (01:01:39) Well I tried absolutely nothing. My husband is this annoying person who's never washed his hair. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:45) Oh, really? Tahnee: (01:01:47) I'm just like, "I hate you." Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:48) [inaudible 01:01:48] Tahnee: (01:01:48) No. And I'm like, "Well boys don't have to do it. Why do girls?" Sondrine Kehoe: (01:01:54) Probably if you gave your body that break, I guess your microbiome would [crosstalk 01:01:59] Tahnee: (01:01:59) I've tried with my hair and it... Sondrine Kehoe: (01:02:01) Didn't work. Tahnee: (01:02:01) Well, I gave it like four months, and I was like, "No. This is gross." But I definitely found with my skin... I learned that when I was in my... I came off the pill in my mid to late 20s, and I got really bad acne, which I later worked out with acupuncture and stuff, but at the time, I was like, topical... And my skin just got worse and worse. And I ended up going to nothing, like jojoba oil, and sometimes a clay to just pull it out. And it calmed down heaps after that. And my mum used to always put avocado and honey on my face. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:02:40) That's great. Your mum sounds wonderful. Tahnee: (01:02:40) Oh yeah, she's definitely crunchy. We grew up with a lot of weird and wonderful things. But I think it definitely reminded me just to strip it back to the basics. And since then, I don't use a lot of stuff. But I find you start buying oils, and then you have all these oil potions, this potion, cleansing potion, and then you're like... Sondrine Kehoe: (01:03:03) Yeah. Your vitamin C, your retinol. Tahnee: (01:03:07) Well I've never got into that. There's this great natural skincare place here, and they one time were like, "Vitamins." And I'm like, "No, that's too complicated." [inaudible 01:03:19] but they're probably good for me. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:03:22) Well, your microbiome does most of the work so [crosstalk 01:03:28] support them and you'll be fine. Tahnee: (01:03:29) Well thank you so much. It was such a pleasure to talk to you. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:03:33) You too. Tahnee: (01:03:33) And I hope you have a really great day. Sondrine Kehoe: (01:03:35) Thank you. Dive deep into the mystical realms of Tonic Herbalism in the SuperFeast Podcast!
It is all about smell this week as Aldo speaks to a real 'Nose'. We dive into the world of perfumes and talk about all the highs and lows of this very particular job with Ruth Mastenbroek, a life-long perfumer with her very own brand. Guest Introduction: The 1985 novel ‘Perfume' (or Das Parfum) from the hand of author Patrick Suskind is one of the best-selling German novels of the 20th century. The title remained on all success lists for about nine years, and received almost unanimously positive national and international critical acclaim. The book was translated into 49 languages and more than 20 million copies were sold worldwide to date. For the movie-lovers among us the book was also made into a fantastic motion picture in 2006 - but that as an aside. Now it is true that Perfume has a sinister streak but I think that is not why it was such a success. The novel fascinated millions of people as it explored the sense of smell and its relationship with the emotional meanings that scents may have. The ability to catch a scent, to define it, to tie it to an emotion and then having the skill to reproduce and sell it - is a true talent that not many people possess. My next guest excels in it. Ruth Mastenbroek has been a Perfumer - also dubbed a Nose - for over 35 years. She has been commissioned by countless leading scent makers, fashion brands and even Royal Houses to create fragrances for men, women and for the home. Throughout her career Ruth worked with many names such as Kenneth Turner and Jigsaw. She was responsible for the Life With a View collection and for the famous Grapefruit candle from Jo Malone. (fun fact: the actress Jennifer Lopez loved that candle so much, she bought 300 of them for her hotel room) Ruth graduated from Oxford University with a degree in Chemistry and started her perfume career as a sales assistant at the perfume department at Selfridge's. Her creativity, curiosity and knowledge of the periodic table led her to take on the perfume maker profession in the UK, the Netherlands and Japan - she was trained first at a big company - now called Givaudan - and in 2003 decided to start her own fragrance business. Meanwhile Ruth was also President of the British Society of Perfumers. In 2010, Ruth launched her own niche fragrance collection; her very own signature line to let her imagination run free. Giving life to her very own perfumes named: Signature, Oxford, Amorosa, Firedance and Dagian. Her fragrances are sold in many famous stores and outlets such as Fortum & Mason in London and Ruth Mastenbroek Perfumes has grown into a family business as her daughter Claire and son Nic have joined Ruth in making sure that the world can smell at its very best. When reading the descriptions of her perfumes on her website, Ruth herself sounds like quite the storyteller. I don't know much about fragrances but I guess she is right when she claims that perfumes tell a story over time. You can find out more about Ruth's work and her perfumes by going to her site: https://www.ruthmastenbroek.com
Brea and Mallory talk about some social justice book dumping dilemmas. Email us at readingglassespodcast at gmail dot com!Reading Glasses MerchRecommendations StoreSponsors - DipseaFeals Links -Reading Glasses Facebook GroupReading Glasses Goodreads GroupAmazon Wish ListNewsletterLibro.fm Korean FictionHan Books Books Mentioned - Defekt by Nino CipriThe Haunting of Alma Fielding by Kate SummerscaleHow to Build a Girl by Caitlin Moran, narrated by Louise BrealeyRebecca by Daphne de Maurier, narrated by Anna MasseyPerfume by Patrick Suskind, narrated by Nigel PattersonJoyland by Stephen King, narrated by Michael KellyPlain Bad Heroines by emily m danforth, narrated by Xe SandsThe Death of Vivek Oji by Akwaeke Emezi, narrated by Chukwudi Iwuji and Yetide BadakiCatherine House by Elisabeth Thomas, narrated by Inés del Castillo
Nalini Chetty dives into the heady world of perfume making, guided by Scots perfumer Euan McCall and co-director of Jorum Studios, Chloe Mullen. With readings by Sarah McCardie from As a Perfume by Arthur Symons and Perfume, by Patrick Suskind.
İnsanoğlunun dili, koklanır dünyayı betimlemeye yaramıyor.Patrick Suskind, Koku Duyular, zihnin fiziksel dünyaya ait bilgi üretmesini sağlarlar ve evrimsel süreçte koku duyusunun, hayatta kalma şansımızı arttırmak üzere geliştiği gösterilmiştir1. Feromon adı verilen kimyasal sinyaller periferal kemoreseptörlerde algılandıktan sonra; diğer duyulardan farklı olarak talamusta işlenmeden, doğrudan limbik sisteme iletilmekte ve amigdala ve hipokampal komplekste işlenmektedir. Nörosinaptik ağdaki bu farklılık koku duyusunun uyarılmasıyla oluşan otonomik davranışları ve yine kokunun diğer duyulara kıyasla, duygu ve hafıza ile daha fazla ilişkili olmasını açıklamaktadır. İnsan günde ortalama 20.000 defa nefes alır ve her solukla birlikte milyonlarca koku molekülü beyinde binlerce sinaptik ağın aktive olmasını sağlar1. Bu nöroanatomik bağlar sayesinde kokular bellek, yaratıcılık, ağrı algısı, güven duygusu ve karar verme süreçleri (ki buna eş seçimi de dahil :) ) gibi birçok üst bilişsel fonksiyon ile direkt bağlantılıdırlar. Dolayısıyla gündelik yaşamda diğer duyular kadar önemini kavrayamasak da, koku derin benliğimizi etkileyen göz ardı edilemeyecek kadar karmaşık bir sistemin duyumsal komponentidir. Kokuların insanlık tarihinde ne derece önemli yer kapladığı ile ilgili birazcık gereksiz bilgi vermek gerekirse şu satırları da buraya yazmam gerekli. Milattan önce 4000’li yıllardan itibaren Çin, Arabistan ve Mısır’da güzel kokulu bitkilerin yakılarak Tanrı’ya mesaj gönderilmeye çalışıldığı bilinmektedir. Eski Mısırda bazı kokular altından daha değerli kabul edilmiş ve binlerce yıl sonra açılan mezarlardan, içerisindeki kokunun halan hissedildiği parfüm şişeleri çıkmıştır. Doğu medeniyetleri yasemin banyosu yapar Miski-Amber sürerken, koku kullanımının Avrupa’ya ulaşması 14.yy’ı bulmuştur. 1370’de ilk alkol temelli parfüm olan Macar Suyu, Macar Kraliçesi Elizabeth’e ithafen yapılmıştır. Öyle ki bu koku sayesinde kraliçe (72) kendisinden 47 yaş küçük Polonya Kralından (25) evlenme teklifi alabilmiştir. Rönesans ile birlikte gelişen koku bilimi, 1806’da Eau de Cologne’un üretilmesiyle birlikte bildiğimiz modern parfümeriye dönüşmüştür2. Peki, yüzyıllardır güzel kokmak uğruna bu kadar uğraş varken ve farkında olmasak da kokular birçok bilişsel olayı bilinç dışı yönetiyor iken, ya koku alamasaydık? Anosmi nedir? Anosmi kokuları algılayamamaya denilmektedir. Geçici veya kalıcı, kazanılmış veya konjenital birçok nedene bağlı olabilir. ABD’de 40 yaş üzeri nüfusta anosminin sıklığı %3’tür, ancak yapılan çalışmalarda yaş ilerledikçe sıklığının arttığı ve 80 yaş üzerinde %39’lara ulaştığı gösterilmiştir3. Solunum fizyolojisinde, hava ile nasal kaviteye ulaşan koku molekülleri nasal kavitenin superiorunda bulunan olfaktör epiteldeki reseptörleri uyarır. Bu uyarı affarent olfaktör nöron (I. Kraniyel sinir) aracılığıyla olfaktör bulbustan limbik kortexe taşınır. Bu sürecin herhangi bir basamağında meydana gelecek aksamalar anosmi ile sonuçlanmaktadır. En sık karşılaşılan nedenler (%50-70) inflamatuar ve obstruktif nedenlerdir (rinit, nasal polip vs.). Bunlar dışında anosmi; kafa travması, yaşlanma, nörodejeneratif hastalıklar (başta Parkinson olmak üzere), konjenital nedenler (Kallman sendromu, Turner sendromu) ve enfeksiyonlara (özellikle viral) bağlı olarak gelişebilir. Nadiren de olsa diyabet ve hipotroidiye bağlı da anosmi gelişebilmektedir3. Anosmi ile başvuran hastanın değerlendirilmesi Her klinik durumda olduğu gibi anosmi değerlendirilirken de iyi bir öykü almak oldukça önemlidir. Eğer koku kaybı aniden gelişmişse öncelikle kafa travması ve viral enfeksiyonlar akla gelmelidir. Kademeli bir koku kaybı söz konusuysa daha çok alerjik rinit, nazal polipler ve neoplazmlar akla gelmelidir. Yine, intermittan koku kayıplarında alerjik rinit ve topikal ilaç kullanımları düşünülmelidir. Çok genç hastalarda, eşlik eden diğer semptomların varlığında konjenital nedenler araştırılmalıdır; yaşlı hastalarda ise...
İnsanoğlunun dili, koklanır dünyayı betimlemeye yaramıyor.Patrick Suskind, Koku Duyular, zihnin fiziksel dünyaya ait bilgi üretmesini sağlarlar ve evrimsel süreçte koku duyusunun, hayatta kalma şansımızı arttırmak üzere geliştiği gösterilmiştir1. Feromon adı verilen kimyasal sinyaller periferal kemoreseptörlerde algılandıktan sonra; diğer duyulardan farklı olarak talamusta işlenmeden, doğrudan limbik sisteme iletilmekte ve amigdala ve hipokampal komplekste işlenmektedir. Nörosinaptik ağdaki bu farklılık koku duyusunun uyarılmasıyla oluşan otonomik davranışları ve yine kokunun diğer duyulara kıyasla, duygu ve hafıza ile daha fazla ilişkili olmasını açıklamaktadır. İnsan günde ortalama 20.000 defa nefes alır ve her solukla birlikte milyonlarca koku molekülü beyinde binlerce sinaptik ağın aktive olmasını sağlar1. Bu nöroanatomik bağlar sayesinde kokular bellek, yaratıcılık, ağrı algısı, güven duygusu ve karar verme süreçleri (ki buna eş seçimi de dahil :) ) gibi birçok üst bilişsel fonksiyon ile direkt bağlantılıdırlar. Dolayısıyla gündelik yaşamda diğer duyular kadar önemini kavrayamasak da, koku derin benliğimizi etkileyen göz ardı edilemeyecek kadar karmaşık bir sistemin duyumsal komponentidir. Kokuların insanlık tarihinde ne derece önemli yer kapladığı ile ilgili birazcık gereksiz bilgi vermek gerekirse şu satırları da buraya yazmam gerekli. Milattan önce 4000’li yıllardan itibaren Çin, Arabistan ve Mısır’da güzel kokulu bitkilerin yakılarak Tanrı’ya mesaj gönderilmeye çalışıldığı bilinmektedir. Eski Mısırda bazı kokular altından daha değerli kabul edilmiş ve binlerce yıl sonra açılan mezarlardan, içerisindeki kokunun halan hissedildiği parfüm şişeleri çıkmıştır. Doğu medeniyetleri yasemin banyosu yapar Miski-Amber sürerken, koku kullanımının Avrupa’ya ulaşması 14.yy’ı bulmuştur. 1370’de ilk alkol temelli parfüm olan Macar Suyu, Macar Kraliçesi Elizabeth’e ithafen yapılmıştır. Öyle ki bu koku sayesinde kraliçe (72) kendisinden 47 yaş küçük Polonya Kralından (25) evlenme teklifi alabilmiştir. Rönesans ile birlikte gelişen koku bilimi, 1806’da Eau de Cologne’un üretilmesiyle birlikte bildiğimiz modern parfümeriye dönüşmüştür2. Peki, yüzyıllardır güzel kokmak uğruna bu kadar uğraş varken ve farkında olmasak da kokular birçok bilişsel olayı bilinç dışı yönetiyor iken, ya koku alamasaydık? Anosmi nedir? Anosmi kokuları algılayamamaya denilmektedir. Geçici veya kalıcı, kazanılmış veya konjenital birçok nedene bağlı olabilir. ABD’de 40 yaş üzeri nüfusta anosminin sıklığı %3’tür, ancak yapılan çalışmalarda yaş ilerledikçe sıklığının arttığı ve 80 yaş üzerinde %39’lara ulaştığı gösterilmiştir3. Solunum fizyolojisinde, hava ile nasal kaviteye ulaşan koku molekülleri nasal kavitenin superiorunda bulunan olfaktör epiteldeki reseptörleri uyarır. Bu uyarı affarent olfaktör nöron (I. Kraniyel sinir) aracılığıyla olfaktör bulbustan limbik kortexe taşınır. Bu sürecin herhangi bir basamağında meydana gelecek aksamalar anosmi ile sonuçlanmaktadır. En sık karşılaşılan nedenler (%50-70) inflamatuar ve obstruktif nedenlerdir (rinit, nasal polip vs.). Bunlar dışında anosmi; kafa travması, yaşlanma, nörodejeneratif hastalıklar (başta Parkinson olmak üzere), konjenital nedenler (Kallman sendromu, Turner sendromu) ve enfeksiyonlara (özellikle viral) bağlı olarak gelişebilir. Nadiren de olsa diyabet ve hipotroidiye bağlı da anosmi gelişebilmektedir3. Anosmi ile başvuran hastanın değerlendirilmesi Her klinik durumda olduğu gibi anosmi değerlendirilirken de iyi bir öykü almak oldukça önemlidir. Eğer koku kaybı aniden gelişmişse öncelikle kafa travması ve viral enfeksiyonlar akla gelmelidir. Kademeli bir koku kaybı söz konusuysa daha çok alerjik rinit, nazal polipler ve neoplazmlar akla gelmelidir. Yine, intermittan koku kayıplarında alerjik rinit ve topikal ilaç kullanımları düşünülmelidir. Çok genç hastalarda, eşlik eden diğer semptomların varlığında konjenital nedenler araştırılmalıdır; yaşlı hastalarda ise...
In this episode we discuss Patrick Süskind's Perfume, a murder mystery told primarily through the sense of smell. Join us as we venture into the beautiful and disturbing world of scent, in this truly unique banned book.If you liked or didn't like this episode, let us know.Leave us a review and subscribe to this podcast!BannedBookClubPodcast.comFollow us on Instagram: @bannedbookclubpodFollow us on Facebook: @bannedbookclubpodEmail us at info@bannedbookclubpodcast.comSupport the show (https://www.buymeacoffee.com/bannedbookclub)
Join us as we welcome Jason Beasley into the club to discuss Ottessa Moshfegh's reanimated abortion of a novel, Death In Her Hands. Next book: Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Patrick Suskind
An overview/summary of Perfume by Patrick Suskind, first published in 1985
Qui potete riascoltare PAGINE, la rubrica di Radio Italia Anni 60 a cura di Andrea Nanni
Cheese is one of my favourite things in life, it is my personal elixir, and a good cheese shop is one of my favourite places in the world to be. So it was with a great amount of joy that I entered my local specialty cheese shop, Harper & Blohm, to chat with cheesemonger Olivia about that most wonderful, delicious, storied and historic dairy product! The cheese and the books: Le'Etivaz - slightly smoky, semi-hard, unique Less by Andrew Sean Greer - with nuggets of deliciousness strewn throughout this is a scintillating satire, a bittersweet romance and a unique look at our shared human comedy. Trick Mirror by Jia Tolentino - this collection of essays and observations is smart, sassy, smoky, unique and bold. Epoisses de Bourgogne - pungent, sticky, smooth, velvety, meaty Perfume: the story of a murderer by Patrick Suskind is an intense reading experience for the senses. Definitely pungent, meaty, smooth, velvety, intense and odd ... not for all tastes. Eleanor Oliphant is completely fine by Gail Honeyman is a nice contrast for this cheese - it is dry, salty yet sweet and quite warm at heart. Colston Bassett Stilton - rich, buttery, tang, mellow, fruity, savoury The museum of modern love by Heather Rose is a weirdly beautiful, artistic tale ... salty, savoury, with a long finish. The art of racing in the rain by Garth Stein details the life of Enzo the dog and is a rich, creamy, complex and mellow read which will linger long after you've finished it.
I explore existential anxiety through Kony 2012, my first day at school and the book The Pigeon by Patrick Suskind See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Happy Halloween from all of us at Booktopia! In the spirit of all thing scary, Booktopia's Sarah, John and Bron chat about their favourite and the most notable scary books of all time. Why do we have this fascination with being scared? Are scary books better than scary movies? Some of the books mentioned in this podcast: The Haunting of Hill Houes by Shirley Jackson —> https://bit.ly/2JrRfuT A Discovery of Witches by Deborah Harkness —> https://bit.ly/2qllACC Dracula by Bram Stoker —> https://bit.ly/2RnOcGR Frankenstein by Mary Shelley —> https://bit.ly/2DenFIW The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde —> https://bit.ly/2EUg1p4 Goosebumps by RL Stine —> https://bit.ly/2P0Pqen IT by Stephen King —> https://bit.ly/2qjIOt3 Edgar Allan Poe —> https://bit.ly/2yCPHKv Jane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte —> https://bit.ly/2OeaxVq Wuthering Heights by Emily Bronte —> https://bit.ly/2PvaUPZ HP Lovecraft —> https://bit.ly/2Q3B21G The Turn of the Screw by Henry James —> https://bit.ly/2JrtN10 Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Patrick Suskind —> https://bit.ly/2qjZjFx Cujo by Stephen King —> https://bit.ly/2JpZ709 Carrie by Stephen King —> https://bit.ly/2PzZBGg The Shining by Stephen King —> https://bit.ly/2zeX9eo Sleeping Beauties by Stephen King and Owen King —> https://bit.ly/2ESGVxw Jude the Obscure by Thomas Hardy —> https://bit.ly/2Q8XdmT Picnic at Hanging Rock by Joan Lindsay —> https://bit.ly/2OezBeX Host: Bronwyn Eley Guests: John Purcell and Sarah McDuling
Join Rachel Lousie Atkin and I as we discuss translations and African Psycho by Alain Mabanckou (translated by Christine Schwartz Hartley) Mentioned in this episode;The Book of Disquiet by Fernando Pessoa (translated by Margaret Jull Costa)Albert CamusJ.D. SalingerSamuel BeckettFyodor DostoevskyThe Catcher in the Rye by J.D. SalingerAmerican Psycho by Bret Easton EllisTaxi driverPerfume by Patrick Suskind (translated by John E. Woods)Perfume (2006) (staring Ben Whishaw not Eddie Redmayne)Black Moses by Alain Mabanckou (translated by Helen Stevenson)Scarface (1983)Kill Your Friends (2016)Huey Lewis and the NewsCrime and Punishment by Fyodor Dostoevsky (translated by Jessie Coulson)The Stranger by Albert Camus (translated by Matthew Ward)Dexter (2006-2013)Convenience Store Woman by Sayaka Murata (translated by Ginny Tapley Takemori)The Wasp Factory by Iain BanksTime to Read!Nausea by Jean-Paul Sartre (translated by James Wood)Haruki MurakamiRyu MurakamiIn the Miso Soup by Ryu Murakami (translated by Ralph F. McCarthy) Find Rachel Lousie Atken online YouTube: Rachel Louise AtkinTwitter: rachelatkin_Instagram: rachelatkin_ Support the show via Patreon Social Media links Email: losttranslationspod@gmail.comTwitter: @translationspodInstagram: translationspodLitsy: @translationspodFacebook: https://www.facebook.com/translationspod/
Industry Leaders from the world of Beauty & Fashion providing thought provoking insights from Inspiring minds. Guests are interviewed on their experiences in both Fashion and Beauty and offer the Beauty Fashion and War audience guidance, wisdom and candor. Anya Olwen Bio Anya Olwen is no ordinary trainer. An accomplished athlete at a very young age, her curiosity about how things work brought her to the science fields; she wanted to know everything she could about the inner workings behind physical training and strengthening. Her background includes extensive education and training in fitness and wellness; sports, and chemistry and biotechnology. Even as a young girl, Anya drew inspiration from her athletic involvement. She found that her character was strengthening through not only the intense dedication that was required, but through the power of being part of a team; what she was able to contribute to others, and what others were contributing to her; the very selflessness of teamwork left an indelible mark on Anya's character. Functional Training and Anya's Philosophy Anya's specialty is Functional Training; a classification of exercise which involves training the body for activities performed in day-to-day life—it is derived from the work of Physical Therapists. Anya is committed to increasing quality of life through exercise, and Functional Training is designed to work your body as one unit, restoring balance where there might be (and often is) imbalance. While she is no fan of sedentary living; she is just as impassioned when it comes to the damage caused by singling out and overworking specific body parts. "Abs of Ridiculous Ripples," "Hollywood Hills Muscle Monsters" do not give you health or functionality! We use the entirety of our body to live our lives, so to over-build one area leaves the rest functionally weaker. More importantly, working muscle groups at that level of isolation leads to joint problems and ultimately bone realignment, which can compromise your internal organs. A balanced, purposeful program gets you looking good—that's right, even naked—but more importantly, it brings ease to the simple tasks of living, such as getting up the stairs quickly; playing on the ground or running around outside with your kids; moving that desk. Bending, rotation movements—focus on this type of strengthening directly impacts your quality of life. While training the body, we are also training our mind—literally reestablishing the work of the motor unit. This is the neurological brain-muscle connection. Anya is very specific when she trains to ensure her clients are control of each movement. This again draws from the PT world. Anya will renew with you, or in some cases build from scratch, that essential connection between the desire to do something and the actual physicality of doing it. Anya Olwen is an ACSM Certified Fitness Professional and Wellness Coach. She received her Bachelor from Mendeleev University of Chemical Technology of Russia. Anya completed her master's in Physical Education and Sports; Figure Skating Division from Russian State University of Physical Education, Sport, Youth and Tourism. Since moving to New York City, her dream from the age of seven, she has attended the American Academy of Personal Training Must Read's! The Master and Margarita by M. Bulgakov Look Inside on Amazon - Click Here Description: "The Master and Margarita is a novel by Mikhail Bulgakov, written between 1928 and 1940 but unpublished in book form until 1967. It is woven around a visit by the Devil to the fervently atheistic Soviet Union. Many critics consider it to be one of the best novels of the 20th century, and the foremost of Soviet satires. In part, it is angled against a suffocatingly bureaucratic social order." Perfume: The story of a murderer' by P. Süskind Look Inside on Amazon - Click Here Description: "An acclaimed bestseller and international sensation, Patrick Suskind's classic novel provokes a terrifying examination of what happens when one man's indulgence in his greatest passion—his sense of smell—leads to murder.In the slums of eighteenth-century France, the infant Jean-Baptiste Grenouille is born with one sublime gift-an absolute sense of smell. As a boy, he lives to decipher the odors of Paris, and apprentices himself to a prominent perfumer who teaches him the ancient art of mixing precious oils and herbs. But Grenouille's genius is such that he is not satisfied to stop there, and he becomes obsessed with capturing the smells of objects such as brass doorknobs and frest-cut wood. Then one day he catches a hint of a scent that will drive him on an ever-more-terrifying quest to create the "ultimate perfume"—the scent of a beautiful young virgin. Told with dazzling narrative brillance, Perfume is a hauntingly powerful tale of murder and sensual depravity." American Tragedy by T. Dreiser Look Inside on Amazon - Click Here Description: "Clyde Griffiths finds his social-climbing aspirations and love for a rich and beautiful debutante threatened when his lower-class pregnant girlfriend gives him an ultimatum. The novel is a tragedy in the strict sense, Clyde's destruction being the consequence of his innate weaknesses: moral and physical cowardice, lack of scruple and self-discipline, muddled intellect and unfocused ambition; additionally, the effect of his ingratiating social manner places temptation in his way which he cannot resist." 100 Years of Solitude by G.G Marquez Look Inside on Amazon - Click Here Description: "One Hundred Years of Solitude is a 1967 novel by Colombian author Gabriel García Márquez that tells the multi-generational story of the Buendía family, whose patriarch, José Arcadio Buendía, founds the town of Macondo, the metaphoric Colombia. The widely acclaimed book, considered by many to be the author's masterpiece, was first published in Spanish in 1967, and subsequently has been translated into thirty-seven languages and has sold more than 30 million copies. The magical realist style and thematic substance of One Hundred Years of Solitude established it as an important, representative novel of the literary Latin American Boom of the 1960s and 1970s, which was stylistically influenced by Modernism (European and North American) and the Cuban Vanguardia literary movement." Favorite Songs! Radioactive by Imagine dragons Listen to Radioactive on iTunes - Click Here Down to Earth by Jem Listen to Down to Earth on iTunes - Click Here California dreaming by The Mamas & The Papas Listen to California Dreaming on iTunes - Click Here t.A.T.u. Listen to t.A.T.u on iTunes - Click Here Technology That Rocks! - Favorite Technology: Samsung - Gear 2 Neo Smart Watch http://goo.gl/53XXaH Description: This Samsung Gear 2 Neo SM-R3810ZKAXAR smart watch features accelerometer, gyroscope and heart rate sensors and measures distance traveled, speed and more for versatility. A Bluetooth 4.0 + LE interface lets you link with select Samsung devices. Favorite internet iOS App: XPS Trainer - http://www.sidelinesports.com/north-america/ View iOS XPS App On iTunes - Click Here Description: The XPS Network is for all athletes and fitness clients who want to keep track of their training and receive training programs from coaches and trainers. Social Media Links: Linked In: www.linkedin.com/in/anyaolwen/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/train_smarter Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDkxcujV5EA Instagram: http://instagram.com/anya_olwen Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/fitnessopedia?ref=hl Email: body.insight@gmail.com
Check out the latest episode of Playtime With Sandra Radio for new music releases, shrine and observational festivities, current news, tidbits o' trivia, and a LIVE reading of an excerpt from Perfume by author, Patrick Suskind, by Sandra LONDON. xxxo, Sandra LONDON
Koku 19 Ekim 2010 KOKU'da bu hafta: 1850'lerde parfumevlerinin en buyuk sorunu neydi?; Antoine Chiris: Artik yasamayan bir koku devi ve sundugu farkli egzotik ham maddeler; Fransiz somurgeciligi koku dunyasinin hizmetinde; Huseyin Dayi ve yelpaze tokadi olayi: Cezayir Osmanliâdan Fransizlar'a geciyor; Cezayir'de Fransiz bayragi dikildikten iki yil sonra hangi Fransiz firmasi orada yatirimlara basladi?; Antoine Chiris ve Patrick Suskind.
'Perfume': Five-Minute Commentary Track
Well after a little bit of a forced hiatus we are back with a double dose of reviews. First up is my take on the audio book Mary, Mary by James Patterson and then joining me for a another book review and discussion is Anka Peters from Germany. This time around we have an in-depth discussion about the novel Perfume, The Story of Muderer by Patrick Suskind which is soon to be made into a major major picture. You can find the link to the trailer on the website. As always your comments and suggestions are appreciated.