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Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar's study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon
Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:17:15.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 143: Matt HeyligerWork With Matt:www.sendagain.coNuggets:(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury(00:06:42) – What I should have done(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs(00:23:12) – The injury timeline(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)(00:37:37) – BFR(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury(01:09:41) – Tetris(01:11:00) – Testing with tape(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week
Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWatch the Video Interview:EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Uncut VideoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Mustache Q&A Part 1(00:07:38) – Sticky climber(00:09:00) – Finger strength(00:13:29) – Aesthetics(00:15:56) – Insomniac(00:17:42) – Japanese climbing culture(00:25:32) – Logistics of traveling to Japan(00:26:33) – Anime(00:27:07) – Realizing his potential(00:32:23) – Home wall dreams (00:35:20) – Ethan and Lucas(00:37:19) – Mustache Q&A Part 2(00:39:09) – Best climbing years(00:42:12) – Footwork tips(00:45:39) – Benchmark Berkeley(00:46:14) – Shoutout(00:46:26) – Fast food(00:47:20) – A Little Life and highballing(00:50:09) – Doomsday(00:54:37) – Future highballs
Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody'! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody' E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat's next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up
This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training.*Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Our weekends(00:07:30) – Key takeaways from our main episode(00:40:45) – A masterclass in endurance training
Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more!Will's Original Episode:EP 166: Will Bosi
Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more!Donate to C4C:climbing4change.orgKai's Original Episode:EP 55: Kai LightnerNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kai's upcoming trip and project(00:03:41) – Self-preservation(00:05:11) – The emotional rollercoaster of ‘Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a(00:07:57) – How it felt to send ‘LOV' in his current body(00:13:40) – Not rushing the process(00:16:50) – Expanding his technical arsenal(00:18:15) – Bad weather, broken holds, and the send(00:23:07) – His trip to Jamaica(00:27:00) – Building a climbing gym in the National Training Center(00:28:42) – Bolting his first route(00:33:31) – The food(00:35:34) – What's going on with C4C(00:37:49) – Paying it forward(00:41:35) – How to support C4C(00:45:47) – Testifying in Washington to get climbing gyms recognized as sports facilities(00:54:02) – Bouldering with Drew Ruana, and negative temperatures
Jon Cardwell is back for a Follow-Up! We talked about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird' 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette' in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!*Follow-Ups are now available for everyone! These are laid-back episodes with past guests from the show. We catch up and chat about their latest sends and what they've been up to. Enjoy!Jon's Original Episode:EP 50: Jon CardwellReferences:Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette' 9a+EP 169: Scott JohnstonTraining for the Uphill Athlete (book)Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird' 5.15b (9b)(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette' 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra's flash of ‘Super Crackinette'(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird'(00:35:53) – Constantly learning(00:40:42) – More about his training(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird'?(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?(01:07:12) – Wrap up
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! James talks about training with Ollie Torr, using a fingerboard as his primary training for 'Bon Voyage', how to train tweaky grip positions, why he prefers repeater to max hangs, getting stronger while only training 10 hours total per week, how he climbed his first V15 (8C) in his mid-30s, advice for new trad climbers, supporting a family as a pro climber, renovating old houses, futuristic trad lines, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:11:33.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Martin Keller is back on the podcast! We met up in Magic Wood over the summer and recorded another great conversation. We talked about his send of Gateway V16/8C+, using video review to make breakthroughs, why you shouldn't spend 50+ days on a project as he does, gaining 13 kgs to send his hardest boulder, his simple training routine, how he is still getting stronger at 45, and Martin gave me feedback and advice on my climbing.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:54:13.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 109: Martin Keller
In this short episode, I correct a mistake from my latest episode with Katie Lamb and talk about the four women who have climbed V15. Thanks to Katharina for bringing this to my attention, and all the respect and admiration to Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann, Mishka Ishi, and Oriane Bertone. You are legends!
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Katie Lamb is back on to talk about her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. In case you've been living under a rock (or haven't been) Katie recently sent the hardest boulder of her life and became the first woman to send a V16. We go in-depth into her projecting processes, why she picked Box Therapy as a project, her greatest challenges, why she only tried the boulder once per week, her personal key to sending hard boulders, joy vs. excitement, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:34.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie's Other Episodes:EP 145: Katie LambFollow-Up: Katie Lamb (Apr 20, 2023)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don't miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:49:54.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingOllie's Original Episode:EP 153: Ollie Torr
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Dave MacLeod is back on the podcast! We talked about lessons from his latest diet experiments, his motivation for only eating Mcdonald's patties for two months, the effects that nutrition has on mental health, common nutrient deficiencies, LDL cholesterol and cardiovascular risk, his favorite tea, what he learned from doing the Lattice Assessment with Ollie Torr, his goal to climb 9a+ sport, why he no longer travels abroad, setting finger strength PRs after 18+ years of hangboarding, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:13:42.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingDave's Other Episodes:EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1)EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Hazel Findlay is back on the podcast to talk about her new course, Performance Hacks. We talk about her top 3 performance hacks, the goal of the course, and Patrons can get a 10% discount code and hear Hazel share some recommendations for me as I try to send my project here in Switzerland.Join the Early-Bird Waitlist for Performance Hacks:go.strongmindclimbing.com/early-birdBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:11:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingHazel's Other Episodes:EP 81: Hazel Findlay (Aug 9, 2021)Reflections Series (for $10 and up Patrons!)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, what methods work best, why it's better than sitting on the couch on your rest days, and we also tackle the practical side of things and discuss realistic options for active recovery between burns at the crag, how to have active rest days without doing too much, what deload weeks should look like, and common pitfalls to avoid.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:30:02.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve's Other Episodes:EP 35: Steve Bechtel (Sept 14, 2020)Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel (Jan 21, 2021)Follow-Up #2: Steve Bechtel (Nov 11, 2021)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:12:49.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie's Original Episode:EP 145: Katie Lamb
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.Matt's Website:mattheyliger.comBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:31:47.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt's Original Episode:EP 143: Matt Heyliger
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he's achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingEmil's Original Episode:EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era VellaBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:24:37.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTim's Original Episode:EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAidan's Original Episode:EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold's podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare' (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJordan's Original Episode:EP 115: Jordan Cannon (April 18, 2022)
Two podcasts at once! I chat with Steven Dimmitt of the popular Nugget Climbing Podcast. We take turns interviewing each other, and really get into the history of what we do, and the challenging side of a “dream job”. Visit The Nugget: www.thenuggetclimbing.com Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off any product… The post 9 – Season 4 – Finding Nuggets in The Climbing World, A Conversation with Steven Dimmitt appeared first on The Climbing Zine.
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he's had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler's Other Episodes:EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)
Welcome back to Kegels and Coffee! I am excited to start off with the one and only Steven Dimmitt, host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Known as a passionate rock climber who interviews world-class rock climbers and coaches, bringing us new insights, the latest training trends and life wisdom, Steven in my conversation shared a vulnerable side and a recent story that was a bit of a wakeup call: His first ever panic attack. We talked about what led up to this moment, the pressure we put on ourselves hosting our own podcasts, the ‘resistance' that any creator bumps up against (in our case editing block) and how to stay sane while still getting the work done. His show has reached over 1M downloads and has quickly become one of the top climbing podcasts in the world. You can learn more about Steven at thenuggetclimbing.com
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAmity's Original Episode:EP 104: Amity Warme
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned's three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed's Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally
Host of the hit climbing podcast The Nugget, Steven Dimmitt shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. - Steven, as many of you are surely already aware, is the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. With more than 135 episodes and over 1 million downloads, The Nugget has become a really valuable resource for the climbing community. Beyond the mic, Steven is a very strong and stoked climber. He's a V-double-digit boulderer, projecting 14a on sport, and casually deadlifts 405 lbs. This chat is equal parts insightful, entertaining, and psyched! - PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order. Petzl is the official gear sponsor of The Struggle. Check out their amazing products, including the Sirocco helmet, at your local gear shop and learn more at petzl.com. - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - SHOW NOTES: Struggle: 0:08:28 Training: 0:11:18 Nutrition: 0:25:03 Tactics: 0:36:26 Mental Game: 0:47:07 Purpose: 0:59:05 Takeaways: 1:07:55 - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow, @stevendimmitt and @thenuggetclimbing - Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad. - This show is produced by Ryan Devlin and Mary Mathis, and is hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. - Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!
Originally from the PNW Steven left his career as an engineer in early 2020 to move into a van full-time, and pursue personal goals in rock climbing and traveling around the country interviewing world-class climbers to tease out the habits and routines that got them where they are today. Steven and I talk about some of that inspiration, how he got into climbing, and of course podcasts. Facebook Twitter Instagram The Outdoor Biz Podcast Love the show? Subscribe, rate, review, and share!
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJonathan's Other Episodes:EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:04:24.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt's Originial Episode:EP 39: Matt Fultz
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we've got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve's Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the third one, published Apr 21, 2022)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:02:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAlita's Original Episode:EP 87: Alita Contreras
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:14:38.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingChad's Other Episodes:EP 20: Chad AndrewsEP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt
Andrew is a successful writer and social commentator in the world of climbing. He is the founder of evening sends a website that hosts in-depth writing and articles from himself and other writers. He's also co-founder of the runout podcast with Chris Kalous. He's maybe best known for unapologetically saying what he thinks. Something of a rarity online in 2022. We talk about his experiences as a writer in a polarised political climate and how the culture wars and the way we tend to converse on social media have affected discourse, writing and activism in climbing. You can support what we're doing here by donating at hazel-findlay.com/podcast or becoming a Patron of the Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven Dimmitt AKA ‘The Nugget Climbing Podcast' is the founder and owner of one of the hottest (and most interesting) interview shows in the climbing industry right now. It has only been going just over 2yrs but has already had a huge impact on the climbing community and features tonnes of well-chosen and crafted interviews with pros, coaches and climbing personalities. His show has featured some of the great climbers of all time and clients we've also tested or trained ourselves - including people like Ben Moon, Hazel Findlay and Steve McClure. Steven was also a client of ours at Lattice, some years ago, but connected with us again recently with Tom Randall as a guest on his own show. This got us thinking, if we've got someone who's spent the last 2 years interviewing some of the world's best climbers and most interesting members of the community, then surely he's observed some patterns and commonalities between all these individuals? In this episode, Tom chats to Steven about some of the guests on the show, how he pulls information from his sources and has utilised it in his own climbing or with his own clients and finally what he's learnt from his experiences of living and working on the road whilst trying to perform. Find out more about Steven's podcast here and his Patreon here. You can also find him on Instagram here! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma' (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn't sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone' project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:21:47.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJoe's Original Episode:EP 96: Joe Kinder
Steven Dimmitt is the host of the popular Nugget Climbing Podcast, a show about performance climbing and the life-long journey of self-improvement. At the surface, it seems that Steven left his engineering job and moved into a van to pursue what might seem like a whimsical and youthful passion. Digging deeper, however, we see that the journey to critical and financial success is one of dedicated craftsmanship.How can we all leverage the power and contentment of craftsmanship to build a satisfying and meaningful life?I really enjoyed this one, and I hope you will too. Topics Discussed with Steven DimmittWhy Steven left his secure job as an engineer and moved into a van full-timeWhy Steven quit his job but doesn't consider himself to be “chasing a passion”The process to building The Nugget Climbing Podcast and generating a loyal following with over 1 million downloads!How Steven is close to surpassing his previous income as an engineer! Much more on the delicate balance of monetizationThoughts on transitioning away from full-time van life and prospective home ownership in a hot marketThe financial viability, misconceptions, and glorification of van lifeCommunity and romantic relationships on the roadThe demands of hosting a weekly interview podcast and thoughts on building a teamThe endless chase of satisfaction in performance rock climbingSteven's interest in music and future ideas for meaningful workThe sustainability of The Nugget and Clipping ChainsKey climbing principles Steven has learned from hosting The NuggetSo much more! Support this project: Buy Me a CoffeeSubscribe to the website: SUBSCRIBE ME!Show Notes and Links at Clippingchains.com
Recently, we have entered into a collaboration with Steven Dimmitt of The Nugget Climbing Podcast who is helping us with the editing, sound and production of our podcast. Steven's podcast is great, with loads of fantastic episodes to choose from. He is also a whizz at all the technical things. As part of this collaboration we are producing some mini-episodes together in pairs called "Reflections". These 10-15 min episodes are discussions around various different topics with the focus on learning, reflection and insights we may have had. They will be available to those who support The Nugget Podcast via Patreon, but we have included one here as a taster - enjoy!
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my third Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my 2022 trip to Hueco, combining hangboarding with outdoor climbing, trip highlights, the Hueco Downward Spiral, lessons learned, and what I plan to do differently next year.*I recommend listening to Steve's original episode and my first and second Follow-Ups with him before this episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:41:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve's Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon' E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:26.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve's Original Episode:EP 68: Steve McClure
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider' this past November, big wall tactics and Josh's strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it's a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider' or other big wall free climbs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 44:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJosh's Original Episode:EP 90: Josh Wharton
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. *This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who wants to improve at climbing. Seriously. Don't skip this episode if you are interested in training.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:44:52.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTom's Original Episode:EP 74: Tom Randall
Steven Dimmitt chats to Mina on his podcast 'The Nugget Climbing Podcast' about her early life and living in India, learning about impermanence from her dad, chasing flow state, memorable high ball boulders, learning to try hard, becoming a mama and much more... We highly recommend his podcast! You can find it here Enjoy!
Steven Dimmitt is living proof that when you live life chasing your own curiosity, the output can lead to opportunities you never knew existed. Steven is a rock climber, podcaster, and entrepreneur.He left his engineering job to move into a van full-time, and pursue personal goals in his passion of rock climbing. For the past year, he has been building The Nugget Climbing Podcast where he interviews world-class climbers to tease out the habits and routines that got them where they are today. The podcast has already hit 500k downloads in the first 18 months. Dive in and let's explore how successful entrepreneurs are the ones who scratch their own itch!Things you will learn in this episode:[00:01 - 05:28] Opening Segment I introduce today's guest, Steven DimmittSteven gives a bit of his background Thinking life is about choosing the “least bad option” Fell into the path of engineering Breaking out of the self-limitsGoing into entrepreneurship - “what is an itch I want to scratch?”[05:29 - 20:01] Successful Entrepreneurs Scratch Their Own ItchSteven talks about his first lessons as an entrepreneurThe mistake of trying to create something you're not interested in The start of Steven's blog Building credibility with the podcast Starting a podcast without generalizing the content Rising above the competition by niching down Incorporating your interests and digging deeper Scratching your own itch Always curious and asking questionsThe networking opportunity that comes from good interviews Becoming financially stable from the content aloneHow Steven makes his content unique through authentic curiosity Extract the most interesting things from each person A quick word from our sponsor[20:02 - 26:50] Steven Dimmitt on Building Your Network How Steven breaks out of his shell to connect with other people Breaking down introversion vs. extroversion Get uncomfortable at least once a week Who you know or what you knowNetwork over knowledge Make other people as interesting as possible Some amount of imposter syndrome can be healthy [26:51 - 35:33] Closing Segment ThE RaNDoM RoUnDHow to connect with StevenLinks below Final words Tweetable Quotes: “If you change your inputs, you are capable of achieving different outputs.” - Steven Dimmitt“I think people can really feel curiosity. I don't force my guests to talk about specific things, I just want to really try to extract what's most interesting about that specific person.” - Steven Dimmitt“Everyone is interesting if you ask them the right questions.” - Steven DimmittResources Mentioned: The Nugget Climbing PodcastThe Four Hour BodyThe Four Hour WorkweekTools of Titans Want to connect with Steven? You can follow him on Instagram. Show some love and head on over to https://thenuggetclimbing.com/ and get connected to the community. Start hiring right now with a $75 sponsored job credit to upgrade your job post at indeed.com/network. Offer valid through March 31st, 2022.Check out squarespace.com/travis for a free trial, and when you're ready to launch, use code: TRAVIS to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain.Right now, Thesis is offering our listeners 10% off your first starter kit when you visit take thesis.com/TRAVIS.Did you love the value that we are putting out in the show? LEAVE A REVIEW and tell us what you think about the episode so we can continue putting out great content just for you! Share this episode and help someone who wants to connect with world-class people. Jump on over to travischappell.com/makemypodcast and let my team make you your very own show!If you want to learn how to build YOUR network, check out my website travischappell.com. You can connect with me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. Be sure to join The Lounge to become part of the community setting up REAL relationships that add value and create investments.Advertising Inquiries: https://redcircle.com/brandsPrivacy & Opt-Out: https://redcircle.com/privacy
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler's latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler's Original Episode:EP 79: Tyler Nelson
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco. *I recommend listening to Steve's original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before this episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:55.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve's Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)
What can you do to become a world class entrepreneur? Success leaves clues, even if the success happens in a different arena. Today, Steven Dimmitt will unpack the clues from the world of rock climbing! He is an elite-level rock climber, and creator of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. He left his engineering job in early 2020 to move into a van full-time, and pursue his passion of rock climbing. Now he travels year-round, and interviews world-class rock climbers to tease out the habits and routines that got them where they are today. The podcast has been a great success, hitting 500k downloads in the first 18 months. Steven's goal is to learn from the best in the world. He hopes to apply the "nuggets" he learns from his guests to improve his own climbing, and to help share their inspiring stories. Listen NOW as we discuss, "How To Become A World Class Entrepreneur." --- Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/30minutehour/support
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite' shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath' 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher', getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:25.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingPaige's original episode:EP 24: Paige Claassen
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn, Melina, Drew, and Sean, keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:33:49.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyson's original episode:EP 29: Tyson Schoene
Today we are speaking with Steven Dimmitt! Steven is the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Steven was hosted on our primary podcast, so be sure to check out Steven's amazing story about rock climbing and podcasting on episode 136 of Boundless Body Radio!Find Steven at-https://thenuggetclimbing.com/Podcast- https://thenuggetclimbing.com/all-episodesIG- @stevendimmittPodcast tools that Steven uses-Logic Pro XZoom H6 RecorderSHURE SM 68 MicAudio-Technica ATR2100 USB Our GDPR privacy policy was updated on August 8, 2022. Visit acast.com/privacy for more information.
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve's climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:38:35.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingVirtual Performance Climbing Coach Summit:the-climb-strong-pcc-classroom.teachable.com/p/virtual-pcc-summit2021-2022Steve's other episodes:EP 35: Steve BechtelFollow-Up: Steve Bechtel (our first one from January 2021)
This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:25.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNatasha's other episodes:EP 32: Natasha BarnesFollow-Up: Natasha Barnes (our first one from April 2021)
In this episode Hazel talks with Mina and Steven Dimmitt of the The Nugget Climbing Podcast about their respective recoveries from under-eating/over-training. Although their stories look a little different they both managed to get into a position of poor health in the bid to get stronger and lighter for climbing. Both have since made a full recovery and are in great shape mentally and physically. In this conversation they talk about each of their uniquely difficult journeys back to full health. The emergence of stories like theirs are part of a growing trend in climbing that reprioritises strength gains over weight loss and uses practices that better reflect latest research. Thanks to Mina and Steven for being open to talk about this because conversations like this do a lot to improve the health of our community! Go here for the previous episode on Mina's diagnosis of RED-S. Go here to hear about Steven's story.
I was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly. I'm an open book, but when it's recorded and put out to the world, it's a little nerve wracking! I hope you enjoy this interview and maybe get to know me a little better (than you even wanted to). Here's Steven's description of the interview from his site, and he has some other good show notes on the episode page if you're interested. Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely's health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa. You can learn more about Neely at trainingbeta.com Show Links This episode on The Nugget Climbing Podcast website My Nutrition Program for Climbers: Nourish Work on your nutrition with me
Steven Dimmitt chats to Hazel on his podcast 'The Nugget Climbing Podcast' about mental training, the ego, fear of falling, fear of failure, her experiences with Magic Line and much more... We highly recommend his podcast! You can find it here Enjoy!
EPISODE 33: The boys are climbing toward higher altitudes this week as they sit down with rock climber, podcaster, and entrepreneur Steven Dimmitt. Steven left his engineering job to move into a van full-time and pursue his dream of becoming a professional rock climber. Earlier this year he started The Nugget Climbing Podcast, which has been met with great success—hitting 500k downloads within the first 18 months. Sharing the remarkable journey that led him to his present day success, Steven discusses the injury that ultimately became a catalyst to changing his entire life and helped him realize his true passion. The trio goes on to talk about everything from taking risks without the full security of a safety net, to growing out of your comfort zone & eliminating “good enough” from your vocabulary. Buckle up y'all, Episode 33 is here. We'll see you inside. Guest bio: With a goal to learn from the best of the best, Steven Dimmitt interviews world-class climbers to tease out the habits and routines that got them where they are today. He hopes to apply the "nuggets" he learns from his guests to improve his own climbing, and to help share their inspiring stories. Steven encourages his listeners to overcome their challenges & take the leap they've been dreaming about. Where to find us: Show Hosts @joshlevinefitness - CONTACT FOR COACHING! (https://www.instagram.com/joshlevinefitness/) @travishawkesmedia - CONTACT FOR MEDIA! (https://www.instagram.com/travishawkesmedia/) Today's Guest @thenuggetclimbing - FOLLOW FOR INFORMATION ON SELF-IMPROVEMENT & FITNESS! (https://www.instagram.com/thenuggetclimbing/) Podcast Producer @james_lohan - CONTACT FOR PODCAST PRODUCTION! (https://www.instagram.com/james_lohan/) Help us grow the show - Sub, Rate, and Review on Apple Podcasts! (https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/struggle-to-strength-podcast/) Watch The Video Pod On Youtube! - Youtube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDgIa3ZBMm3KaNi_hoFXxhQ) Follow the Podcast on social for even more content! - Struggle To Strength Instagram (http://https://www.instagram.com/struggle2strengthpod/)
Living in a van and traveling around the country might not be your thing. But for Steven Dimmitt it was, and he left everything behind to chase his dream. He is the proud host of of a podcast that he wanted to hear himself, but didn't exist- The Nugget Climbing Podcast. He interviews the very best world-class climbers to tease out what habits and routines that got them where they are today, and shares their inspiring stories with the rest of us! We are so grateful for Steven and his work and his amazing podcast and we were honored to host him on our show!Find Steven at-The Nugget Climbing PodcastIG- thenuggetclimbingFB- The Nugget Community
This one is a bit of a special one-off! Tom Randall sits down with the founder of the Nugget Climbing Podcast, Steven to discuss all things Lattice, training and performance. There's so many things that get discussed in this one, so we've put the highlight below with timestamps. We've also put all the links to Steven's podcast at the bottom as well. 11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience18:19 – What Tom did to get strong23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles1:06:35 – Balancing fun and hard work1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channelhenuggetclimbing.com (My podcast website)thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall (Our episode show notes)thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists (Top Episodes page for new listeners)instagram.com/thenuggetclimbing (The Nugget on Instagram)
Steven Dimmitt is an elite level rock climber, entrepreneur, and the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Steven had a pivotal moment in his life one day about a year and a half ago when he felt he was wasting away in his cubicle at work. He was working for a paycheck, but not fulfilled. He couldn't imagine a lifetime living like this. He quit, sold everything, bought a van and started traveling around doing what lit him up, rock climbing. For the past year and a half he's been living in his van, traveling to epic rock climbing locations and interviewing some of the world's best rock climbers to tease out the habits and routines that make them exceptional. His The Nugget Climbing podcast is a collection of fun stories, life lessons, and "nuggets" of insight from these world-class performers. And...it's been paying his bills. He lives in a van full-time, and can often be found living under a cliff with his climbing shoes, and microphone for company. You'll love our conversation where Steven opens up about how all this happened and how he's building a media company with his podcast. Find Steven on... Web: The Nugget Climbing Podcast Instagram: @TheNuggetClimbing Instagram: @StevenDimmet Facebook: The Nugget Climbing And don't miss the stinger at the very end of the episode. Thanks for supporting our sponsors that make this podcast possible for free for you. The Build a Business Success Secrets Monthly Print Newsletter Are you the type of person who wants to get 100% out of your time, talent, and ideas? If you are you'll also love our print newsletter... Build a Business Success Secrets Check out the special offer for listeners today >>> One last note....we're going the extra mile for you. This episode is enhanced with Dolby Sound processing to give you a smooth, easy listening experience. Why are we investing the extra money to to this? Because you're worth it as one of our listeners! More Information on Build a Business Success Secrets
Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15. We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maischNuggets:5:10 – Ballet class6:20 – Steve’s beginnings in climbing, grad school, training breakthroughs, and first bad finger injury13:00 – Becoming interested in quantifying training, and observing the elites16:50 – How Steve and I connected, the Hueco training plan idea, and addressing individual needs in training 23:38 – Climbing strength26:33 – Underperforming vs overperforming your finger strength28:53 – The bouldering pyramid 31:40 – The 85% rule, and the strength sweet spot46:45 – Train your weaknesses and perform in your strengths, and battling Free Willy51:50 – Breakdown of the Hueco training plan, and antagonist training59:46 – Scapular lock-offs1:05:06 – How much we should be climbing, and making sense of different climbing schedules1:11:25 – Climb more days, or higher intensity?1:17:38 – Reconciling Daniel on Return of the Sleepwalker1:20:48 – Efficiency and muscle memory1:22:18 – The deload week, and getting stronger when we rest1:26:18 – The key elements of the boulder pyramid 1:29:16 – How to build up the pyramid season after season1:31:43 – How to maintain bouldering power during a sport climbing phase1:34:20 – Whether to maintain endurance during a boulder phase 1:38:26 – Gaining endurance through increasing strength1:40:06 – The plus/minus (+/-) system1:49:10 – Training on the boards, and designing different workouts 2:00:16 – Balancing training and performing2:06:51 – The Remond food bank2:13:14 – Injuries, Steve’s climbing goals, and rebuilding his pyramid2:19:55 – Preventing injuries, a foundation of lifting, and the benefit of building muscle in the right places2:26:10 – Gratitude
Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok, daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ron-kaukNuggets:4:17 – Out of the blue, and reflecting on a life of climbing8:19 – Sylvester Stallone, Wolfgang Gulich, and a brief career in Hollywood18:48 – Doubling for Tom Cruise, and working on films in Yosemite20:14 – “We would do anything to make $1000.”23:24 – Ron’s first wilderness trip at age 14, and early rock climbing28:43 – Rattlesnake Ridge32:33 – Climbing ‘The Nutcracker'35:17 – Catching rides to Yosemite, and Dale Bards bakery van38:07 – ‘Outer Limits’ with Bridwell39:28 – Ron’s first summer in Yosemite, and “all I needed to do was get there.”42:55 – A day in the life in Camp 4, and climbing The Nose in a day48:23 – Jimmy Hendrix52:40 – ‘Midnight Lightning’57:41 – Playful training, and 100 fingertip pull-ups1:00:13 – Catching waves, and freeing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar1:07:53 – Carlos Casteneda, ‘Tales of Power’, and ’Separate Reality’ 1:13:47 – The end of the 70s, ‘To Bolt’, and ‘Magic Line’1:18:27 – “I am that waterfall.”1:20:19 – Mother nature, nurture, and becoming better caretakers1:21:47 – Sacred Rok, and the universe as our university1:26:15 – Sponsorship and performing1:29:34 – Ron’s vision for what climbing could be1:35:44 – Taking time in nature, and getting back to the basics 1:39:45 – Barefoot standing1:49:12 – Slowing down1:54:11 – Words from Alan Watts (the climber)2:03:30 – Questions from Alan 2:12:12 – The photograph2:15:56 – “We really are all connected.”2:19:21 – Follow-Up teaser, and show notes
Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sport climbing, the three parts of climbing ability, how to improve over the long haul, foot-on campusing, and much more.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-mcclureNuggets:4:12 – Podcasts, and the desire to listen6:22 – Hitching13:58 – Growing up in the Northeast of England, and the climbing wall Steve built in his garage18:43 – Early climbing, and discovering sport climbing22:36 – Steve’s first E326:42 – Tenacity, and trying hard 29:22 – “It’s all down to motivation.” - Ben Moon34:16 – ‘Rainman’37:28 – Going with the flow vs. pursuing long-term goals 44:08 – ‘Mutation’, and Will Bossi 47:21 – “You make your own luck.”48:19 – Was ‘Mutation’ the first 5.15?49:54 – “You can’t have regrets.”52:32 – My (Steven’s) struggle with personal limits, how hard Steve was climbing at my age, and the good news for aging climbers56:17 – The mental and technical aspects of climbing57:42 – The three parts of climbing ability (technical, mental, and physical)59:46 – Foot-on campusing (aka laddering)1:08:30 – How Steve fits in foot-on campusing around other climbing and training1:12:27 – Question from Branko: How do you approach climbing at your local crag, after you’ve done everything? Do you only get on the hard stuff, or do you repeat any routes to continue building your pyramid?1:15:40 – How Steve approached each new season on Rainman, and adding more thought to his climbing gym sessions1:19:08 – Question from Adriel: One exercise to improve strength?1:22:00 – Question from Adriel: Who would win in an arm-wresting match between Steve and Dave MacLeod?1:23:34 – Question from Will: How does Steve balance training and recovery as he gets older?1:26:23 – Steve’s typical climbing schedule at age 50, and his routine for Rainman1:31:06 – Question from Anderson: Does Steve think his hardest climbing is ahead of him? What about his best?1:33:14 – Steve’s hardest climb (his onsight of ‘Nightmare’)1:34:26 – The best1:35:24 – Steve’s decision to move to Sheffield1:38:10 – Steve’s go-to breakfast1:39:49 – Writing, and Steve’s training diary1:45:26 – Gratitude1:49:29 – Frozen fingers, and Steve’s onsight attempt of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’1:53:42 – The great equalizer1:56:52 – Steve’s Instagram and website1:58:52 – Pembroke, witnessing an accident, and rethinking risk
Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jenningsNuggets:4:10 – Heth’s background in physical therapy, functional medicine, and pain science6:55 – A new paradigm for understanding pain8:22 – “It’s all in my head.” and “It’s always real.”9:40 – Lorimer Moseley, and the hammer in the neck story14:50 – Red light blue light15:55 – The leg scratch 17:40 – Chronic vs acute pain21:09 – The mountain illustration of tissue capacity, the pain buffer, and how the brain’s overprotection leads to chronic pain24:19 – Rehabbing chronic elbow pain28:25 – Graded motor imagery using the Recognize App, visualization, and mirror therapy36:35 – “The point is always to get people back to moving.” 37:58 – Heth’s example of the brain loving us too much, and removing fear41:00 – The role of inflammation, assessing tissue damage, and rehabbing fingers and elbows47:28 – Heth’s recent finger injury, and how he rehabbed it50:35 – “Don’t flare up, but when you do, don’t freak out about it.”51:48 – What to do after a flare-up 53:31 – Heth’s protocol for rehabbing his finger injury56:02 – The theory behind eccentrics for tendon injury rehab57:04 – How do address different types of finger injuries59:27 – Heth’s thoughts on climbing open-handed while recovering from a pulley injury1:01:03 – Mirror therapy for amputees1:02:50 – Elbow rehab1:07:52 – Preventing recurring injuries, giving our bodies credit, and bioplasticity1:15:32 – What Heth has learned from his injuries, how he plans to move forward, and collagen + vitamin C1:19:50 – Heth’s thoughts on supplemental exercises for injury prevention1:23:57 – Heth’s thoughts on including finger ups or other isotonic exercises1:25:32 – Chronic inflammation, gut health, and stress1:28:35 – Why Heth recommends a low carb diet for many of his clients1:32:33 – Heth’s thoughts on carbs for metabolically healthy people and athletes1:38:37 – Carb backloading1:44:39 – Heth’s thoughts on counting macros and daily protein1:47:56 – Krispy Cream doughnuts, birthday cake, and popcorn and coke1:50:28 – Breathing and meditation, accepting where we are, and being kind to ourselves1:57:00 – Heth’s website, and social media2:00:26 – Gratitude
Mercedes Pollmeier is a climbing coach with a master’s in human movement. We discussed key stretches for climbers, how to warm up for a limit session, whether or not static stretching reduces power, how to improve your flexibility in 6 minutes per day, and “food rules” from her recent book, Peak Nutrition.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mercedes-pollmeierNuggets:5:14 – Wind and head colds8:29 – Mercedes trip to Red Rocks, and focusing on recovering 9:44 – Resting after a trip, deloading, and blood flow restriction (BFR) training13:30 – More about BFR and what it is used for22:34 – Mercedes background, current coaching practice, and programs25:12 – Masters in human movement 26:54 – How we learn to move better29:43 – Terminology: “mobility” and “flexibility”37:18 – Mobility prep/warmup for a climbing session40:51 – Warmup duration, and static stretching before climbing 48:14 – Appropriate intensity of warmup stretches49:59 – Breathing during stretching51:39 – Other warmup stretches54:52 – Side split, front split, and back bridge57:36 – Cycling flexibility and strength training, and variability1:01:47 – An example strength cycle, and changing accessory exercises1:04:29 – Flexibility as a skill, and where to start1:08:07 – Jefferson Curl (J-Curl)1:17:33 – Programming flexibility1:24:03 – Daily passive stretching/limbering session1:31:41 – Minimalist approach to the Side Spits in (6-minutes per day) 1:36:43 – Elevating hips and scaling flexibility exercises1:42:54 – How to fit flexibility in around other training1:47:36 – Time of day to stretch 1:50:08 – Does tightness make us stronger?1:53:27 – Calf stretching1:57:17 – Building strength in end ranges1:58:20 – Mercedes nutrition book: Peak Nutrition2:03:08 – Mercedes “food rules” (eat slow and eat until 80% full, and hydration)2:05:51 – How to connect with Mercedes2:07:16 – Gratitude
In this trailer, I explain my philosophy on ads, why I have chosen to rely on listener support, a breakdown of the different Patreon tiers, and what Patrons get for supporting the show.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingLearn more about Follow-Ups and Q&As:thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-contentLearn about Consultations and Podcast Coaching: thenuggetclimbing.com/coachingMatt's Episode:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultzKai's Episode:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kai-lightnerFirst Q&A:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa1Browse All Episodes and Show Notes:thenuggetclimbing.com/all-episodes
In this role reversal episode, Steven Dimmit of the Nugget Climbing Podcast interviews Chelsea on all things brain rewiring, business growth and creating a life that you LOVE living. Use code "PODCAST" at checkout for 15% off your training plan at https://www.ladybetacoaching.com/ Use code "LADYBETA" at checkout for 15% off at physivantage.comWant free core workouts? Head here for my core for climbing freebie! http://bit.ly/coreforclimbingInterested in using isometrics for climbing training? Hands down my favorite way to train. Improved recovery time, measurable strength and better results! Head here to learn more: https://bit.ly/ladybetaisometrics