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National Police Commissioner, General Fanie Masemola has thanked Constable Boipelo Senoge for her dedication in serving her country through the SAPS. He spoke at her funeral held at St. Peter Anglican church at Rocklands in Bloemfontein. Senoge was stationed in Parkweg Police station in Bloemfontein since July 2024.Constable Senoge died alongside two of her colleagues - Costables Cebekhulu Linda and Keabetswe Buys. The bodies of the three officers were recovered from the Hennops River at Centurion, (Gauteng) last week after they had gone missing on the 23rd of April. They were last seen by their families when they left their homes in Bloemfontein travelling to their area of deployment in Limpopo. However the search for the three constables reached a tragic end this week when the first two bodies were found while the third body was recove shortly after. Sakina Kamwendo spoke to SABC reporter, Kamohelo Tsotetsi who is following the story for us...
50 Folgen sind geschafft und wir nähren uns dem ersten Geburtstag! Bevor wir diesen Umstand nächste Woche entsprechend feiern wollen, geht diese Folge aber noch einmal normal vonstatten. Heiß diskutiert wird trotzdem! Denn wir reden über Rock Radios! Keine nischigen Webradios zum Thema Metal. Nein, es geht um die Rocklands, Radio Bobs und Gongs dieser Republik und um die Frage wie zeitgemäß diese Medien noch sind! Kapitel: 00:00 Einleitung 03:54 Andis Wochenende 05:32 Eventkalender 07:37 Stoner Doom Live im Ponyhof 10:55 Bandshirts der Woche 14:40 Getränkepodcast 27:53 Kommentare kommentiert 49:41 Hauptthema Quellen: ▶️Heavy Metal in der DDR: https://www.ardaudiothek.de/episode/iron-east-heavy-metal-im-osten/tendenz-hard-bis-heavy-amiga-der-ddr-rundfunk-und-die-heavys-8-9/mdr-kultur/12092727/ ▶Mayhem in Ostdeutschland: https://youtu.be/pBBLDic5H48?si=eJKwWA4hT-Qr5y4T ▶Badesalz "Dugi Otok": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHTuNKq52Kw&ab_channel=Badesalz Links ▶Rotten Noises TV: https://youtu.be/FAKoi-nYRWA?si=wOk5YfysoF5dahZe ▶TV Jungsmusik: https://youtu.be/Knb2iSPefrE?si=oIsfd1VIAtOANvxR Unsere Bands Adrian singt bei Blakylle: https://www.blakylle.de/ Andi spielt Bass bei Anheim: https://www.facebook.com/Anheimband/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ More Metal to find at http://totgehoert.com ...on Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/totgehoert ...on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Totgehoert ...on X (Twitter): https://twitter.com/totgehoert?lang=de ...on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/totgehoert/
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong' climber.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #137 for context!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley's InstagramKai Whaley's YouTubeKai Whaley's Episode, #137Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this episode, Kyra recounts her past two trips to Rocklands, South Africa for climbing trips and how she approached her third one differently than the first two. She remembers some lessons learned from her first trip in 2016, what she did wrong (like switching birth control right before leaving), what she would have done differently, and how that changed her whole approach to climbing outside in general. Sometimes, finding what motivates you is the most important.
It was a pleasure to be joined by Michaela Kiersch this week to talk about incredible achievements on rock, her recent trip to Rocklands without a full set of fingers, outing misogynistic comments on Instagram and so much more! There's some chat about retrospective grading, small gym communities and board climbing thrown in there as well. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.
Gunmen opened fire on a group of teenagers in Rocklands, Mitchell's Plain, on Friday (August 23), leaving three dead. Lester Kiewit speaks to Norman Jantjies, member of the Mitchell's Plain Community Policing Forum, to discuss the incident and the possible motives.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Clarence Ford speaks to Professor Liezille Jacobs, head of psychology dept at Rhodes University. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
In August last year we were delighted to work with the fledgling Now Now Competition that used the Cape Town stadium as a focal point for its inaugural design contest. In it's second iteration the Now Now contest has shifted focus within Cape Town from Green Point to Khayelitsha's Spine Road. In this latest episode of the Talking Transformation Podcast, Sebestian Hitchcock - principal coordinator of the NowNow architecture competition - and I talk to two of the local entrepreneurs within Khayelitsha, Brian Bango a friend of the podcast and, for the first time Buntu Matole. Spine Road is a critical arterial for Cape Town linking numerous communities within and beyond Khayelitsha. It links the sands of Strandfontein in Mitchells Plain, through Rocklands and beyond Mew Way. It is recognised as a vibrant heart of the community and famed for its party and nightlife when the sun goes down! This episode unpacks some of the realities and aspirations for the road and the broader community from innovators in that space: Brian is a leading property developer and Buntu is a pioneer in the tourism field. The episode is upbeat, inspiring, and provides an excellent opportunity for the curious and prospective competition entrants alike to learn more about the opportunities of the road and requirements of the contest. Recorded: Wednesday, March 27th 2024 --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/talking-transformation-po/message
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island' 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard(00:15:22) – Sleep(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles(00:27:34) – Deloads(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs(00:42:15) – “It's not your last day”(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma' 8A+/V12(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island' 8C/V15(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island' replica(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?(01:14:14) – Training on the replica(01:22:21) – How to train on your project(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?(01:40:15) – Nalle's FA of ‘Burden of Dreams' 9A/V17(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders(01:59:08) – Imposing demands(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
Professional climber Nina Williams is known for her highball bouldering career. Highballing is somewhere between bouldering and free soloing. Climbers scale rocks 20 to 50 feet tall, sometimes even taller, without a rope. Nina was the first woman to climb a number of extremely challenging routes around the world, from Bishop, California to Rocklands, South Africa. In her sport, Nina deals with fear and failure regularly. She's had to learn to manage both in a way that allows her to be safe, but still push herself to her limits.Connect with Nina: InstagramCheck out: Book your next REI Co-op AdventureREI Re/Supply
Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra's hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returnsNuggets:0:05:53 – Jesse's Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer0:18:49 – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting0:25:31 – Work capacity0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there0:43:53 – What I've realized about active rest days in Rocklands0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn't set any goals on paper in 20230:49:57 – Thai0:51:25 – How Jesse's coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse's first few years of coaching1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training1:12:55 – Adam Ondra's hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra's onsight of Just Do It1:54:20 – Wrap up
Kyra and Allison are both back from their climbing-packed summers and are excited to share with everyone what they've been up to during their recent podcasting hiatus. First they talk about how they make their livings from being a pro climber and then they recap about their respective trips. Allison spent 5 weeks climbing outside in South Africa and Kyra went to the last World Cups and watched the first few athletes punch their tickets to Paris 2024 at World Champs!
The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan's back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan's most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan's trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn's Question: Ethan's back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn's Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv's Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson's repeat of Black Beard's Tears, and Ethan's FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv's Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv's Question: Chris Linder's route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis' Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin's Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin's Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan's thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin's Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin's Question: Ethan's thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody's Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel's Question: Ethan's thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan's Question: Which climber's superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob's Question: Ethan's thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won't make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren's Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob's Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars' Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor's Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper's Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke's Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up
Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytisNuggets:0:05:26 – Exhales and accents0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining0:25:36 – ‘The End' 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool' 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty0:41:01 – Mattias' 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline' 7C+1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow' on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber1:57:46 – Wobblers2:03:34 – Ethan's punt on ‘Rodan' 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants2:11:21 – V14 goals2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties
Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you're given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you've become0:23:29 – I'm on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic's job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic's longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic's crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic's crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic's key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally's book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic's go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic's top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic's thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan's feelings1:42:41 – Nic's secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic's home wall, and why he doesn't like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn't recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul's land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he's changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic's brother, his siblings' climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic's send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up
Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellisNuggets:0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words0:06:39 – Jenn's gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn's Olympic aspirations in gymnastics0:19:26 – Setting the scene0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn's initial goals for her trip to Rocklands0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways0:48:00 – The climbers we've learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road1:08:28 – Jenn's lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle1:36:46 – Jenn's long-ass climbing warmup1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn's warmup1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate1:43:45 – Improving year on year1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn's role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents1:59:34 – Joe's Valley doughnuts2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes2:02:17 – Jenn's connection to Joe's Valley, and how she became a software engineer2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs2:06:31 – Hype music2:08:27 – Best decision she's ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about2:14:25 – Building out her van2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark
Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCarlos's Previous Episode:EP 58: Carlos TkaczShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-and-stephNuggets:0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year0:21:23 – Steph's experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands' style, Carlos' first 8B ‘Monkey Business', and learning to try harder0:33:10 – Steph's lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele0:37:21 – Carlos' experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback0:39:50 – Steph's send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness' 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline' 7C+0:43:02 – Carlos' tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar' 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void' 8B0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar', and drawing inspiration from “the kids”0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks1:45:47 – Teaching1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we've impacted nature2:09:26 – Steph's thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family2:36:16 – Carlos' new book list2:40:31 – Speculative fiction2:42:09 – Carlos' latest book projects, and Steph's first novel2:45:59 – Carlos' horror film2:48:19 – Steph's new book project, and where to find her first book2:49:54 – Publishing a book2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky' as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie2:58:24 – Enjoying the process2:59:40 – What's next?
It's another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-bennNuggets:0:04:26 – Izzo's legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors0:14:47 – Charlie's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:19:06 – Adam's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:26:21 – The boys' skin0:29:22 – Noah's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:34:01 – Ben's tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:37:20 – Charlie's coach role on the trip0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home0:40:46 – Noah's first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn's worn-out Nikes0:42:56 – Getting hooked0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte0:58:41 – Brother dynamics1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie's big win on Mooiste Meisei1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy's send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin' Large and The Finnish Line1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn's World Cup aspirations1:24:24 – Noah's finger strength1:26:16 – Board gods1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades1:37:38 – Noah's experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?1:42:43 – Adam's weaknesses1:43:26 – Noah's weaknesses1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses1:49:37 – Benn's weaknesses1:52:37 – Adam's proudest FAs1:54:14 – Noah's proudest FAs1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam1:57:34 – Benn's proudest FAs1:59:23 – Charlie's proudest FAs2:01:36 – Ethan's FA of Wet Dream when he was 172:06:29 – Ethan's proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop2:08:13 – Ethan's big wall FA in Greenland in 20122:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations2:19:24 – Three more goals each2:24:07 – Airstar2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands2:32:16 – These boys are the future
It's a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it's bad.”0:18:15 – Troy's top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin's longest project0:32:43 – Austin's efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce's trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce's job1:09:07 – Troy's job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin's tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan's goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan's top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I'm bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan's most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin's send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses
Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience filming the show, the stereotypical trans narrative in the media, why he chooses to be visible, his ungendered childhood, gender roles in sports, why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, dealing with trolls, owning your accomplishments, building the Queer Climber's Network, Rocklands highlights, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cat-runnerNuggets:0:04:44 – Cat's tea situation0:07:53 – Ethan's coffee addiction, and why he doesn't drink it before doing something scary0:11:20 – The Queer Climbers' Network0:16:15 – Life after winning The Climb0:22:23 – Finding community through climbing, and helping others find that too0:25:37 – Cat's experience filming and watching the show0:28:54 – Being trans as part of Cat's identity, and how that came across in the show0:30:38 – More behind the scenes, and what the climbing experience was like on the show0:32:15 – Meeting Jason Mamoa, and meme accounts0:34:14 – The reaction to the show, and getting messages from trans kids and their parents0:36:35 – The stereotypical trans narrative in the media, and pushing people into the role of spokesperson0:39:22 – Choosing to be visible, being proud of being trans, and seeing a future0:42:36 – Being who he needed when he was younger, and trying to change one person's world0:44:14 – What Cat would have benefitted from as a kid, experiencing severe depression, and knowing he's a part of the future0:46:36 – Reading The Alchemist, and having intimate connections with individual people0:51:43 – Cat's childhood, transitioning within the binary, and how his gender identity has evolved0:58:14 – Connecting with he/him pronouns1:00:36 – Why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, trolls, and the reaction to my video clip with Alayna Joy about climbing as a queer space1:07:30 – Why Cat is particular about who he climbs with1:10:28 – The trolliest of troll questions1:11:16 – People's insecurities, and “we're all performing”1:15:03 – Knowing when to give your energy to people, and leading with respect1:19:36 – “Trans people are humans”, and the stat that 80% of Americans have never met a person they know to be trans1:22:00 – An issue of isolation and ignorance1:25:16 – Hopeful conversations, anti-trans legislation, and false information about gender-affirming care1:27:56 – Cat's parents1:31:50 – Gender roles and sports, and the gender gap in climbing1:38:25 – Height in climbing, the subjectivity of grades, and why outdoor rock climbing is so cool1:43:49 – Rapid Fire: Best decision1:44:19 – Rapid Fire: Most proud of1:49:09 – Rapid Fire: What frustrates you2:01:00 – Taking responsibility2:03:28 – “Take! Falling!”2:05:02 – Rapid Fire: Favorite rock type2:07:46 – Rapid Fire: Ultimate dream climb2:15:36 – Rapid Fire: Favorite send reward2:17:04 – Rapid Fire: Go-to climbing shoes2:23:00 – Rapid Fire: Desert Island DVD2:25:31 – Rapid Fire: Favorite album for a long drive2:28:49 – The one thing Cat wants people to know about trans stuff2:31:29 – Taking representation seriously, and how sharing human stories cracks people open2:38:17 – Doing your best, and sharing information with your circle2:44:30 – Cat's ankle injury, and his tick list from Rocklands
Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad's life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasEthan's Other Episodes:EP 21: Ethan Pringle (Jun 2020)Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle (Oct 2020)EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) (Nov 2020)A Call from Ethan (Jul 2021)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle-returnsNuggets:0:03:49 – Princess Pringle0:06:13 – Rocklands Trip update0:11:24 – Feeling fit for bouldering after sport climbing0:14:14 – Ethan's haphazard approach, and following the psych0:20:04 – Monkey Wedding (8C/V15)0:21:43 – Being surprised at the tactics of some really strong climbers0:24:03 – Rapid firing dynamic moves0:26:09 – The style of climbing in Rocklands0:32:37 – Bonus cruxes and nemesis rigs (Black Mango Chutney and Dangle)0:40:20 – Munchy holds0:41:12 – Micromanaging holds0:44:56 – Pause0:45:57 – Ethan-ism #1: Rolling out0:48:33 – Ethan-ism #2: Drinking lots of water0:51:03 – The lacrosse ball, and lubricated tendons0:54:00 – The injurious style of Rocklands0:55:54 – Ethan-ism #3: “Take your time.”1:03:12 – Perfectionism and being detail oriented, and accessing beast mode1:07:12 – Wanting moves to feel good, and committing when they're not1:08:39 – More about the style in Rocklands, and funky moves1:10:02 – Adjusting on holds, and Adam Ondra on Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura1:15:18 – His dad's stroke1:20:12 – Ethan's sleeping injury1:26:08 – His dad's quality of life in the final years of his life1:33:10 – Honoring his dad, which parts of Ethan feel most like him, and how his dad didn't how to process and talk about feelings1:39:22 – How Ethan developed his emotional intelligence, and giving space to other people's thoughts and feelings1:44:21 – A shared life philosophy1:47:58 – The loniless of thinking your inner messiness isn't ok1:49:11 – What made Ethan feel the best when his dad passed away1:53:46 – His dad's passing on November 6th, 20222:03:19 – Living2:06:22 – Thinking about the future2:10:10 – Goals and evolution2:12:39 – Inspiration, the unpleasant nature of hard rock climbing, and Seb on Bibliographie2:16:59 – Goals for the rest of the Rocklands trip2:19:07 – Plans to do trip updates, and my first two weeks in Rocklands2:22:57 – Indoor camping vibes, and plans for the podcast
Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie's apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie's own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone's going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie's climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie's goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie's approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie's honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie's experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.Matt's Website:mattheyliger.comBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:31:47.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt's Original Episode:EP 143: Matt Heyliger
Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2Nuggets:0:04:22 – A favorite memory from Jesse's trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 20170:11:12 – Top out views0:12:06 – Jesse's Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads0:16:55 – Steven's Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible0:20:21 – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training0:22:51 – Steven's Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you're trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)0:24:56 – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)0:25:35 – Jesse's Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)0:30:01 – Steven's Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders0:32:41 – Jesse's Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)0:35:01 – Steven's Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff0:36:28 – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try0:36:49 – Steven's Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)0:39:06 – Steven's Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 10:40:22 – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)0:41:46 – Steven's Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing0:42:59 – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)0:44:35 – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have0:46:45 – Steven's Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect0:48:02 – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade0:48:26 – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety0:52:40 – Jesse's Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics0:53:23 – Steven's Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you
Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!Listen to more top bouldering episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-robertsNuggets:0:06:13 – Seasons are shifting0:08:52 – Prepping for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17 (9A), and setting his replica0:11:44 – Trying Alphane, and bullet points0:13:10 – We've already planned on a round 2!0:15:23 – Crushing hard boulders to Elton John, and finding focus through relaxation0:19:43 – Aidan's first trip to the Rocklands and leaving competitions behind0:26:01 – How Aidan developed his style, and how he thinks about training his weaknesses0:28:02 – Differences among top boulderers, what Aidan learned from climbing with Dave Graham, and the shared trait of perseverance0:36:10 – Aidan's climbing style, high angle crimps, and leg crimping0:42:41 – How Aidan's style is different from how Shawn Raboutou climbs0:46:38 – Redefining what it means to be strong, and making your training specific0:47:56 – Aidan's thoughts on why none of the current V17's (9A's) have been repeated yet0:50:18 – Getting away from “simple tasks” and reductionism in training0:56:24 – How Aidan got so good at his style of climbing and high angle crimping1:03:07 – Discovering sling testing with Dan Varian, and training with mono slings1:07:23 – Summary of how Aidan got so good at his climbing style1:09:28 – Training in a high angle position, and how he strengthened his index fingers1:11:37 – Aidan's pinkie strength, and testing with Ollie Torr1:16:09 – How strong is Aidan on the Beastmaker 2000 center edge?1:18:09 – Why simple finger strength testing doesn't necessarily apply to our finger strength on the rock1:22:19 – More about training his index fingers1:26:21 – Quality and applicability in training1:28:08 – “There is no rapid magic formula for finger strength”1:29:07 – How Aidan approaches a project, and collecting bullet points for each move1:35:01 – Aidan's pre-send rituals1:39:01 – Using bullet points to set the replica for Alphane, carving wooden holds, and measuring moves1:45:59 – Training his legs for Alphane, and Copenhagen planks for abductors1:47:50 – Using feet follow rules on his board1:49:57 – Climbing Alphane from two moves in, and how to train for long boulders on a home wall or board1:59:28 – Going to Finland to try Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), and what he learned from trying it2:09:49 – Mastery2:14:17 – Plans to train for Burden of Dreams2:19:37 – Screwdriver injury2:22:17 – Aidan's philosophy with training on replicas, and climbing Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+)2:27:21 – Balancing highly specific training (replicas) with other training2:29:48 – Aidan's formula for goal setting (result, reality, and response)2:33:09 – His goal-setting formula applied to Alphane2:36:37 – Influence and contribution, and Aidan's podcast and magazine2:42:13 – Traveling, and considering our environmental impact as climbers2:52:24 – Thinking about offsetting my CO2 for my trip to Rocklands next summer2:55:39 – Plans to live in the US for a year2:57:21 – Wrap up
Tomaso Greksak procestoval hodně světových boulderových oblastí a v té nejlepší, kousek pod Paříží si dokonce s kamarády koupil vilu Boulderbase, kde ubytovává lezce a tráví zde několik měsíců v roce. Podělí se s námi o své zážitky z cest po severských zemích, v jihoafrické republice a tréninku ostatních lezců. Přeji příjemný poslech. Jan Čaj Šálek/www.nadzemi.cz/@jan.caj/@podcastnadzemi Tomaso Greksak/www.climbingbus.com/www.boulderbase.eu/@tomasogreksak
Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood in Switzerland, Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Direct North (V14) in Bishop, and so many more. She's a Stanford graduate and works half time as a data scientist focused on clean energy, but her main priority is climbing. She's surprisingly not sponsored, and I asked her why that is and if she would be a full-time climber instead of working as a data scientist. I also asked Katie about what sets her apart from other climbers–what makes her sooo good at bouldering. She started climbing at a really young age just outside of Boston on a youth team that emphasized the importance of outdoor climbing. She's taken those values to heart and hasn't competed indoors for a long time, preferring to spend all of her time outside on hard projects. One of the reasons I asked Katie to be on the show is that I heard about her willingness to rest a lot when she's projecting. I really appreciated that coming from such a strong climber, as most super strong climbers I know do not rest more than 1 or 2 days at a time, ever. Katie tells us all about her mindset in climbing, her training program she just started (and whether it's helping her), and how she's prepping for her summer Rocklands trip. I really enjoyed talking with Katie, and I found myself mulling over some things she'd said for weeks after we talked. She's wise beyond her years and takes this sport very seriously – I hope you enjoy! Katie Lamb Interview Details How she developed as a climber Why she goes after aesthetic, historic lines Why she's not just a sponsored climber Why THINKING about climbing a lot helps her send Why she only climbed every 5 days while trying The Swarm Whether or not she'd be happy just climbing and not working How many is too many tries on a boulder – when she gives up What sets her apart from other climbers Her new strength program from Natasha Barnes Why she regressed on her project recently Show Links Instagram @ktlambies Climbing Magazine article about Katie Work on your nutrition with me Photo Credit Photo of Katie on The Penrose Step (V14) in Leavenworth, Washington by @keenantakahashi Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.
Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey's husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned's approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehallyNuggets:0:07:43 – Staying in a gite in Fontainbleau0:09:45 – Shauna Coxsey's husband0:11:07 – A background on Ned's climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield0:16:51 – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s0:21:01 – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve0:22:57 – Ned's philosophy for improving at climbing, being well rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly0:28:20 – Ned's dimensions, “If that's how you're built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber0:32:08 – The leap in Ned's climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)0:35:29 – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?0:39:40 – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing0:45:25 – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions0:47:35 – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training0:52:05 – An annual overview of Ned's finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals0:56:11 – How much variety should you have in your finger training?0:59:24 – Training one grip type per session1:02:12 – The genetic component of finger strength1:05:54 – How Ned structures a week of finger training1:10:19 – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions1:14:25 – Ned's thoughts on only training half crimp1:16:33 – The balance of Ned's finger training and outdoor climbing1:20:19 – Ned's home wall, and making his own wooden holds1:22:19 – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?1:24:21 – Ned's thinking about using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders1:26:11 – Structuring a board session (bouldering)1:28:28 – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character1:32:09 – Targeting move types in a sessions1:32:55 – Bouldering with ankle weights1:39:42 – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process1:42:38 – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries1:48:26 – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?1:54:01 – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard1:55:55 – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?1:57:09 – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?2:00:19 – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?2:02:29 – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation2:03:59 – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?2:05:13 – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?2:06:12 – Ned's stretching routine2:10:14 – Science podcasts2:11:19 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?2:12:29 – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade2:17:12 – Flashing ‘Trust Issues' V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset2:20:40 – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!2:23:58 – What's next for Beastmaker2:25:19 – Where to buy the book (links in show notes)
11月は特集『これからの街の映画館をつくる。』と題して、「Shimane Cinema ONOZAWA」の和田浩章さんと、シモキタ・エキマエ・シネマ「K2」の北原豪さんをゲストにお迎えしてお送りしています。 いよいよ特集最終回。映画館の持続可能な運営について、さらには運営とマインドとの兼ね合いについて共感や”ひっくり返し”が飛び交うトークとなりました！ 映画館は、いわゆる”箱物”であるがゆえの物理的な制約と、チケットの値段は変えられない、という2つの制約のなかでどう運営していくのかについて、和田さんは「CINEMA Chupki TABATA」で、北原さんはクライミングジム「ROCKLANDS」の運営を経験されていることから、リアル（映画館）の限界を雑誌やオンラインの講座やコミュニティづくりなどバーチャルで積み上げるチャレンジをすることで、お客さんと接する場所である映画館をより魅力的な場所として維持することに繋がるのではという、これからの映画館を持続していくうえでのヒントが！ さらに、お金とクリエイティビティのアンビバレントな関係の話題では、「自分の世界観だけで完結する物語ほどつまらないものはない（和田さん）」のであり、文化芸術を届けるためには自分と映画館を引き離して考え、映画館に対して何ができるのか？が大切になってくるのであり、引き離すのは切り離すのではなく、「本当に素直な自分が楽しめるものをちゃんとやる（北原さん）」という距離の保ち方が大切というお話に。映画館のみならずどの場面でも忘れたくない感覚を共有いただく回となりました。 さらには、脚が伸びるコタツのこと、お引越しのこと、積読のこと、劇場と俳優で連携できること、相反しやすいものって実はそうじゃないのかも？など、NFTアートの話してみたいね、など、オープニングやエンディングもお聞き逃しなく…！ そして、今回のHotProjectsは、商業映画では絶対に通らない究極の純愛を描く映画のプロジェクトをご紹介！”リターンの発明王”こと井口昇監督による思わずツッコみたくなる・支援したくなるリターンに、気になるその物語に、紹介も盛り上がりました！あなたも「異端の純愛」をみてみてくなりませんか？ぜひチェックしてみてください。 ぜひお聞きください！ 「MOTION GALLERY CROSSING」は、編集者の武田俊と演劇モデルの長井短が、日本最大級のクラウドファンディングサイト「MOTION GALLERY」のプロジェクトを紹介しながら「これからの文化と社会のはなし」をゲストとともに掘り下げていくラジオ番組。東京・九段ハウスの協賛でお送りいたします。 ＜もしもし文化センター＞ 番組のオンラインコミュニティ「もしもし文化センター」へは、下記よりアクセスいただけます！みなさんの参加をお待ちしております！”もしもしーず”募集中です！ https://basic.motion-gallery.net/community/moshibun ＜番組プレイリスト更新中！＞ 番組では、エピソードとゲスト＆パーソナリティの選曲を織り交ぜたSpotifyプレイリストを更新中です！ぜひ「My Library」への登録お願いします！ https://open.spotify.com/playlist/6EY8LFSdS7B0OOl5wxldXr ＜Hot projects＞ 【井口昇監督最新作『異端の純愛』(仮)応援プロジェクト！】 『片腕マシンガール』『ゾンビアス』のヒロインが再集結！ https://motion-gallery.net/projects/iguchinoboru ＜MOTION GALLERYが運営に携わるミニシアター「K2」プロジェクト実施中！＞ 東京・下北沢の線路跡地に生まれた新しい“街”の入り口に、 文化の共有地となるミニシアター『K2』が誕生します。 https://motion-gallery.net/projects/k2-cinema ＜「K2」のSNSでも随時最新情報を投稿中！＞ https://www.instagram.com/k2cinema/ https://twitter.com/K2shimokita ＜九段ハウス＞ https://kudan.house/ ＜ご意見・質問お待ちしてます！＞ 番組のハッシュタグ #mgcrossing https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?hashtags=mgcrossing＜ゲストプロフィール＞和田浩章 (undefined)1990年1月24日生まれ、千葉県市川市出身。 東京都北区の日本初のユニバーサルシアターCINEMA Chupki TABATA支配人を経て過疎という言葉が生まれた島根県益田市に映画館再建を試みるShimane Cinema ONOZAWA代表社員。フリーランスとして視覚障害者の映画鑑賞をサポートするバリアフリー音声ガイドの製作者。代表作は『漁港の肉子ちゃん』『えんとつ町のプペル』『湯を沸かすほどの熱い愛』等。北原豪 (Incline) https://incline.life/K2の運営主体であるIncline LLP役員。LLPを構成する株式会社Sunborn代表。株式会社weroll共同代表。在学中からミュージシャン活動を始め、下北沢を中心にライブからパッケージの全国展開など活動。現在はIT領域でSIや制作のコンサルティングやプロジェクトマネジメント、マーケティング領域で企業のCI策定支援などを行う。Sunbornでは映画の配信プラットフォーム運営経験を持ち、直近では地域ブランディング事業にも携わる。趣味はロッククライミング。趣味が高じ、2020年、コロナ禍で閉店したクライミングジム「ROCKLANDS」の再生を手掛け、代表として運営中。
11月は特集『これからの街の映画館をつくる。』と題して、「Shimane Cinema ONOZAWA」の和田浩章さんと、シモキタ・エキマエ・シネマ「K2」の北原豪さんをゲストにお迎えしてお送りしています。 特集3回目となる今回は、顔がみえるほど関わりがあるほど遠のいてしまう、という長井さんからの発信からスタート。 積極的に関わることだけが関わりではなく、どちらが良いでもなく、関心を持ったり消費してくれる人もまた関わりの中にいるものであって、無理をしないことが大事と話す北原さん。さら和田さんからの、そもそも映画や音楽好きな人は外交的な人はいないのでは？という投げかけから、映画館という同じ空間・暗闇の中で偶然居合わせた人々がそれぞれに映画への感想を抱えて帰っていくという、守られてほしい豊かな孤独の時間・体験についてそれぞれの想いや思い出が溢れるトークとなりました。 そして事前にリスナーのみなさんにお聞きしたアンケート結果をここでご紹介！「ミニシアターあったらいいな」と「本当に来てくれる」の距離感をいかに縮めていくかという映画館をつくる側のチャレンジや、闇鍋的な闇映画？のアイデアなど、今回も話し足りない盛りだくさんな内容となりました！ さらには、武田さんがケアについての書籍を選書したお話、長井さんのなかなかやる気がでない1ヶ月のこと、エスプレッソトニック大高さんの新しい冬の飲み物のこと、カオスメーカーとしての長井さんのことなど、オープニングやエンディングもお聞き逃しなく…！ そして、今回のHotProjectsは、いよいよ始まった三鷹天命反転住宅のプロジェクトをご紹介！このプロジェクトの代表・本間桃世さんにゲストにお越しいただいた今年8月の特集『住むとはたらくを建物から考える』もお聞きいただいてからプロジェクトページをみると、より深く三鷹天命反転住宅を感じられるのでおすすめです！ぜひ応援して、「自身がこの住宅の一部であることを実感」しましょう！ ぜひお聞きください！ 「MOTION GALLERY CROSSING」は、編集者の武田俊と演劇モデルの長井短が、日本最大級のクラウドファンディングサイト「MOTION GALLERY」のプロジェクトを紹介しながら「これからの文化と社会のはなし」をゲストとともに掘り下げていくラジオ番組。東京・九段ハウスの協賛でお送りいたします。 ＜もしもし文化センター＞ 番組のオンラインコミュニティ「もしもし文化センター」へは、下記よりアクセスいただけます！みなさんの参加をお待ちしております！”もしもしーず”募集中です！ https://basic.motion-gallery.net/community/moshibun ＜番組プレイリスト更新中！＞ 番組では、エピソードとゲスト＆パーソナリティの選曲を織り交ぜたSpotifyプレイリストを更新中です！ぜひ「My Library」への登録お願いします！ https://open.spotify.com/playlist/6EY8LFSdS7B0OOl5wxldXr ＜Hot projects＞ 三鷹天命反転住宅の天命を反転させたい！ 歴史的建造物として残すためにお力をお貸しください!! https://motion-gallery.net/projects/savetherdloftsmitaka ＜「三鷹天命反転住宅」本間桃世さんゲスト特集『住むとはたらくを建物から考える』はこちら！＞ https://propo.fm/motiongallerycrossing/10010 ＜MOTION GALLERYが運営に携わるミニシアター「K2」プロジェクト実施中！＞ 東京・下北沢の線路跡地に生まれた新しい“街”の入り口に、 文化の共有地となるミニシアター『K2』が誕生します。 https://motion-gallery.net/projects/k2-cinema ＜九段ハウス＞ https://kudan.house/ ＜ご意見・質問お待ちしてます！＞ 番組のハッシュタグ #mgcrossing https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?hashtags=mgcrossing＜ゲストプロフィール＞ 和田浩章 (undefined)1990年1月24日生まれ、千葉県市川市出身。 東京都北区の日本初のユニバーサルシアターCINEMA Chupki TABATA支配人を経て過疎という言葉が生まれた島根県益田市に映画館再建を試みるShimane Cinema ONOZAWA代表社員。フリーランスとして視覚障害者の映画鑑賞をサポートするバリアフリー音声ガイドの製作者。代表作は『漁港の肉子ちゃん』『えんとつ町のプペル』『湯を沸かすほどの熱い愛』等。北原豪 (Incline) https://incline.life/K2の運営主体であるIncline LLP役員。LLPを構成する株式会社Sunborn代表。株式会社weroll共同代表。在学中からミュージシャン活動を始め、下北沢を中心にライブからパッケージの全国展開など活動。現在はIT領域でSIや制作のコンサルティングやプロジェクトマネジメント、マーケティング領域で企業のCI策定支援などを行う。Sunbornでは映画の配信プラットフォーム運営経験を持ち、直近では地域ブランディング事業にも携わる。趣味はロッククライミング。趣味が高じ、2020年、コロナ禍で閉店したクライミングジム「ROCKLANDS」の再生を手掛け、代表として運営中。
11月は特集『これからの街の映画館をつくる。』と題して、「Shimane Cinema ONOZAWA」の和田浩章さんと、シモキタ・エキマエ・シネマ「K2」の北原豪さんをゲストにお迎えしてお送りしています。 特集2回目となる今回は、いま、街に映画館（ミニシアター）をつくるうえでの核ともいえる地域との連携について、島根と下北沢という大きく異なる2つ地域でゲストのお二人が感じることや奮闘をお聞きしていきました。 島根県益田市という、ローカルだからこその強い繋がりのなかに余所者として入っていくのではなく地域の人が主役となり自分事となるような、”関わりしろ”のある映画館にしていくことが大切と話す和田さん。さらにはその映画館独特のカラーを持ちながら持続的に運営していく上での”定額と面白さの2層構造”についてなど、これからの街の映画館のことを真摯に考える言葉が今回も熱く響きました…！ 一方で、演劇・音楽・サブカル・食など様々な文化に溢れ、小規模のお店が多く、住民も多くいる下北沢「K2」では、それらの距離の近さを生かして上映作品の選定に関わってもらうなど、互いが刺激し合えるような施策を考えているとのことで、地域ブランディングにも携わる北原さんならではの地域資源を生かす視点から生み出される「K2」の今後のチャレンジも楽しみです！（そしてこの「K2」のクラウドファンディングがいよいよスタート！！！MOTION GALLERYが運営に携わるミニシアターの立ち上げに、ぜひ応援お願いします！） さらには、長井さん生誕祭＠もしもし文化センターの思い出、子どもの頃の映画館体験、身近な存在としてイベントとしてどちらの良さもある映画館についてなど、オープニングやエンディングもお聞き逃しなく…！ そして、今回のHotProjectsは、和歌山県・色川で、食の生産現場をめぐり生産者さんと交流しながら自然の恵みをいただくことの楽しさや奥深さを味わえるレストランをオープンするプロジェクトをご紹介！このプロジェクトを含め、「取り組むのがローカルな課題解決のように見えて、実は社会全体の課題にもつながっている」という和歌山県ガバメントクラウドファンディング全7プロジェクトが現在実施中です！どれも気になる…！ ぜひお聞きください！ 「MOTION GALLERY CROSSING」は、編集者の武田俊と演劇モデルの長井短が、日本最大級のクラウドファンディングサイト「MOTION GALLERY」のプロジェクトを紹介しながら「これからの文化と社会のはなし」をゲストとともに掘り下げていくラジオ番組。東京・九段ハウスの協賛でお送りいたします。 ＜もしもし文化センター＞ 番組のオンラインコミュニティ「もしもし文化センター」へは、下記よりアクセスいただけます！みなさんの参加をお待ちしております！”もしもしーず”募集中です！ https://basic.motion-gallery.net/community/moshibun ＜番組プレイリスト更新中！＞ 番組では、エピソードとゲスト＆パーソナリティの選曲を織り交ぜたSpotifyプレイリストを更新中です！ぜひ「My Library」への登録お願いします！ https://open.spotify.com/playlist/6EY8LFSdS7B0OOl5wxldXr ＜Hot projects＞ 熊野の里山・色川で、五感で楽しむ食体験を！ 作り手と食べ手をつなぐレストラン「Aima」を作る【ふるさと納税型】 https://motion-gallery.net/projects/nachikatsuura_aima ＜MOTION GALLERYが運営に携わるミニシアター「K2」プロジェクト実施中！＞ 東京・下北沢の線路跡地に生まれた新しい“街”の入り口に、 文化の共有地となるミニシアター『K2』が誕生します。 https://motion-gallery.net/projects/k2-cinema ＜九段ハウス＞ https://kudan.house/ ＜ご意見・質問お待ちしてます！＞ 番組のハッシュタグ #mgcrossing https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?hashtags=mgcrossing＜ゲストプロフィール＞和田浩章 (undefined)1990年1月24日生まれ、千葉県市川市出身。 東京都北区の日本初のユニバーサルシアターCINEMA Chupki TABATA支配人を経て過疎という言葉が生まれた島根県益田市に映画館再建を試みるShimane Cinema ONOZAWA代表社員。フリーランスとして視覚障害者の映画鑑賞をサポートするバリアフリー音声ガイドの製作者。代表作は『漁港の肉子ちゃん』『えんとつ町のプペル』『湯を沸かすほどの熱い愛』等。北原豪 (Incline) https://incline.lifeK2の運営主体であるIncline LLP役員。LLPを構成する株式会社Sunborn代表。株式会社weroll共同代表。在学中からミュージシャン活動を始め、下北沢を中心にライブからパッケージの全国展開など活動。現在はIT領域でSIや制作のコンサルティングやプロジェクトマネジメント、マーケティング領域で企業のCI策定支援などを行う。Sunbornでは映画の配信プラットフォーム運営経験を持ち、直近では地域ブランディング事業にも携わる。趣味はロッククライミング。趣味が高じ、2020年、コロナ禍で閉店したクライミングジム「ROCKLANDS」の再生を手掛け、代表として運営中。
11月は特集『これからの街の映画館をつくる。』と題して、「Shimane Cinema ONOZAWA」の和田浩章さんと、シモキタ・エキマエ・シネマ「K2」の北原豪さんをゲストにお迎えしてお送りします！どうやって映画館はつくられるの？島根と下北、それぞれの地域との連携は？映画館を持続可能に運営していくには？など、映画館づくりに留まらない、地域と文化、経営、映画館と自分、自分からみた自分、など濃いトークが繰り広げられました！ 特集初回となる今回は、ゲストの和田さんも北原さんもMOTION GALLERYとは縁が深く、そんな出会いのお話も交えながら、まずはゲストのお二人にそれぞれの映画館立ち上げの経緯についてお話しいただきました。 和田さんはかつて日本初のユニバーサルシアター「CINEMA Chupki TABATA」の支配人としてその立ち上げから携わり、その際にはMOTION GALLERYでプロジェクトを実施いただいたご縁が。また、視覚障害者の映画鑑賞をサポートするバリアフリー音声ガイドの製作者として活動されるほか、現在は妻の地元である島根県益田市にて映画館再建に向けて奮闘されているとのことで、そのチャレンジ精神をご自身でも「山があったら登ってみたくなる。挑戦が好きなタイプ。」と話される、非常にバイタリティ溢れるお話は思わず聞き入ってしまうほど！ そして北原さんは、Incline（MOTION GALLERYや北原さんの株式会社Sunborn含む５社が一つになって映画やアートなどを企画プロデュースしている団体）としてこれまでも映画製作や「ミニシアター・エイド基金」でご一緒しており、いよいよ今回、映画館をつくる！ということで、下北沢の再開発という大きな流れのなかにあってつくられるミニシアター「K2」の成り立ちについてお話しいただきました。 さらには、最近映画館に行った？地元があるっていいな、MOTION GALLERYの新たなチャンレンジとしての映画館のこと、など、オープニングやエンディングもお聞き逃しなく…！ そして、今回のHotProjectsは、紀伊半島の南側、和歌山県南部の「紀南」地域で今年から始まる芸術祭のプロジェクトをご紹介！梅、みかん、醤油、アドベンチャーワールド、空港、ホテル など、紀南の魅力とアートを結びつけたリターンはどれも気になるものばかり！民間主導で推進する持続可能なアートプロジェクトの在り方への挑戦をぜひ応援したいですね！ ぜひお聞きください！ 「MOTION GALLERY CROSSING」は、編集者の武田俊と演劇モデルの長井短が、日本最大級のクラウドファンディングサイト「MOTION GALLERY」のプロジェクトを紹介しながら「これからの文化と社会のはなし」をゲストとともに掘り下げていくラジオ番組。東京・九段ハウスの協賛でお送りいたします。 ＜もしもし文化センター＞ 番組のオンラインコミュニティ「もしもし文化センター」へは、下記よりアクセスいただけます！みなさんの参加をお待ちしております！”もしもしーず”募集中です！ https://basic.motion-gallery.net/community/moshibun ＜番組プレイリスト更新中！＞ 番組では、エピソードとゲスト＆パーソナリティの選曲を織り交ぜたSpotifyプレイリストを更新中です！ぜひ「My Library」への登録お願いします！ https://open.spotify.com/playlist/6EY8LFSdS7B0OOl5wxldXr ＜Hot projects＞ 自然と信仰、歴史と文化が息づく 和歌山県『紀南』を舞台にした芸術祭 「紀南アートウィーク2021」ご支援をお願いします！ https://motion-gallery.net/projects/kinan_artweek2021 ＜九段ハウス＞ https://kudan.house/ ＜ご意見・質問お待ちしてます！＞ 番組のハッシュタグ #mgcrossing https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?hashtags=mgcrossing＜ゲストプロフィール＞和田浩章 (undefined)1990年1月24日生まれ、千葉県市川市出身。 東京都北区の日本初のユニバーサルシアターCINEMA Chupki TABATA支配人を経て過疎という言葉が生まれた島根県益田市に映画館再建を試みるShimane Cinema ONOZAWA代表社員。フリーランスとして視覚障害者の映画鑑賞をサポートするバリアフリー音声ガイドの製作者。代表作は『漁港の肉子ちゃん』『えんとつ町のプペル』『湯を沸かすほどの熱い愛』等。北原豪 (Incline) https://incline.lifeK2の運営主体であるIncline LLP役員。LLPを構成する株式会社Sunborn代表。株式会社weroll共同代表。在学中からミュージシャン活動を始め、下北沢を中心にライブからパッケージの全国展開など活動。現在はIT領域でSIや制作のコンサルティングやプロジェクトマネジメント、マーケティング領域で企業のCI策定支援などを行う。Sunbornでは映画の配信プラットフォーム運営経験を持ち、直近では地域ブランディング事業にも携わる。趣味はロッククライミング。趣味が高じ、2020年、コロナ禍で閉店したクライミングジム「ROCKLANDS」の再生を手掛け、代表として運営中。
This is part two of the Station Strangler. If you haven't listened to part one, start there. Last week we covered a series of murders, from 1986 to 1992, and I told you about ten young boys who were raped and strangled before being dumped in various sites near the train stations and in the sand dunes of Mitchell's Plain and surrounds. In early 1994, there had been a gap of over two years since the disappearance of any young boys had been definitively linked to the so-called Station Strangler, but soon we would learn that the nightmare was far from over. In January, just a single month, the bodies of eleven raped and murdered young victims would be found. This is what is known as the month of horror. PATREON: https://www.patreon.com/ithappenedhere SOURCES: https://apnews.com/article/c60bf1b31c1ad630cd17035149fe35c6https://apnews.com/article/fb2a9bb403504cd9fe764badfb059bc7https://mg.co.za/article/1994-09-09-station-strangler-whos-fooling-whom/https://mg.co.za/article/2005-08-16-station-strangler-back-in-court/https://mg.co.za/article/2007-04-25-late-judge-fondly-remembered-by-peers/?amphttps://www.deseret.com/1995/6/14/19177025/is-man-who-killed-boy-s-africa-s-serial-stranglerhttps://www.iol.co.za/news/south-africa/revisiting-the-station-strangler-cases-250970https://www.iol.co.za/news/south-africa/serial-killer-inquest-hear-of-inconsistencies-400257https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1994-01-29-mn-16600-story.htmlhttps://www.pressreader.com/south-africa/cape-argus/20091214/282372625716970https://www.pressreader.com/south-africa/weekend-argus-saturday-edition/20140524/281625303343669https://www.pressreader.com/south-africa/weekend-argus-saturday-edition/20091212/283089885254251https://www.pressreader.com/south-africa/weekend-argus-sunday-edition/20091213/282737697936478https://www.sahistory.org.za/place/cape-flats-cape-townhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fjWHrL6kIwhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK8hFQR3ip8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JFGyQ78cvEProfiling serial killers and other crimes in South Africa, by Micki Pistorius. The Penguin Group (South Africa), Cape Town 2005. ISBN 9780143024828 / ISBN 978-0-14-302482-8https://www.iol.co.za/news/south-africa/revisiting-the-station-strangler-cases-250970 LOCATIONSMnandi Beach: https://goo.gl/maps/ikQ3RTwGKmnN5AAm7Rocklands: https://goo.gl/maps/cezGmqXrmp1BQfS17Westpoort Drive: https://goo.gl/maps/tmouV6igQ8impcjR6Beacon Valley: https://goo.gl/maps/hVfKyhFViXn7Div86Strand: https://goo.gl/maps/cavcHuZJ9LmAAn589Kuils River: https://goo.gl/maps/WJmkweo3qcUuDNLU9 Get bonus content on Patreon See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That’s why I asked him to be on the show to talk about how he trains for speed climbing. He clearly takes his sport very seriously and he personally piqued my interest in speed climbing, so I was honored that he agreed to this interview. NOTE: This interview was recorded on March 19, 2020 in the beginning of the COVID lockdowns, so some logistics we talk about may not line up with what’s happening right now. The training information is still as relevant as ever, though. John Brosler Interview Details Speed Climbing 101: A primer on the sport Exacly how he trains day by day for speed climbing How his diet affects his training and performance Whether or not he climbs outside Why it sometimes comes down to luck who wins His thoughts on the Olympic and World Cup format John Brosler Interview Links Instagram: @johnbrosler Rent or buy the Reel Rock film “Up to Speed” Article on GymClimber.com by John called “Speed Climbing 101” Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.
The people over at the Free State Football Academy in Rocklands are doing some amazing things so we asked them to come through and tell us more about what's what! It's so dope!
A great conversation with Brian Edwards of Rocklands Entertainment. Brian had an early start at 17 promoting and booking shows and hasn't looked back since. Tommy Hunter, Stompin' Tom, Rita MacNeil, Kitty Wells, Charley Pride, Frank Mills and Red Green are just a small sampling of the artist Brian has worked with. They don't get any better than this.
“Ohhhh, the farmer in the dell, the farmer …” Sorry, we got a little carried away with our love of farmers. Like this week’s guests from the Glenn Family’s Rocklands Farm, a working farm and vineyard not more than a 40-minute drive from the White House! From organic wines and eggs, to meats, produce, flowers and more – including stunning event spaces that look like they're right out of the pages of Southern Living -- Rocklands is one, amazing place. Joining us with tastes and talk of Rocklands are Greg and Anna Glenn and Shawn Eubank with the story of how one family’s desire to get back to the land drove amazing, accelerated success at an old farm lying fallow in Poolesville, MD.
Hosted by David and Nycci Nellis. Today the show goes all local, all the time. Dawson's Market in Rockville (MD) Town Square is a market that features products from local vendors that have to meet strict standards for all-natural ingredients and production. The second Tuesday of every month, Dawson's hosts and highlights several of its select vendors whose products represent the excellence of its offering. Today. Bart Yablonsky of Dawson's is in with a number of his top providers, including: • Greg Glenn of Rockland Farms (Poolesville, MD) – Rocklands is a full working farm and vineyard. CEO Greg Glenn is in with tastes and talk of Rocklands' Anna's Rosè , a Merlot, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cab Sauv blend, and Farmhouse, a 100% Chamborcin, whole cluster, steel aged, light, dry red wine. Bio: • Tsiona Bellete, an Ethiopian chef whose packaged foods use exotic ingredients from Ethiopia in dips, chips, dried soups and stews and more. • Jenn Rogers, CEO of newly launched Brawling Bear Brewing, with tastes of her Bare Knuckle IPA ( juicy East Coast Style India Pale Ale with sweet citrus hop flavors) And Low Blow Blonde Ale. • Andy Brown's Eat Pizza is taking the world by storm – A frozen pizza that cooks up perfectly (crisp bottom, doughy crust!) in the oven, Eat Pizza is at Dawson's, of course, but also at 54 Whole Foods and more.YaÜ Vietnamese yogurt is simply delish. Founders Fred Chen and Phuong Nguyen have perfected the offering in a range of good-for-you flavors. • Ever Bar founder Alex Hempfield has created a hemp seed protein bar now found nationwide and enjoyed by millions.
The pine rockland ecosystem is a mixture of a slash pine canopy, scrubby ground layer, and fossilized coral reef. Rocklands once spanned 185,000 acres, but over nearly 100 years of south Florida development, that has shriveled to less than 2% of the original range. An incredible amalgam of rare and endangered plants and animal species rely on the globally-imperiled pine rockland, including the Florida bonneted bat, Bartram’s hairstreak butterfly, and the tiger beetle. Today, a pocket of pine rockland is mired in controversy. Parts of a property surrounding Zoo Miami are slated for two separate development plans: One, a proposed apartment and shopping center complex with stores like Walmart, Chik-Fil-A and L.A. Fitness. The other is a 20th Century Fox theme park ironically named Miami Wilds. These plans have provoked the ire of many people and organizations who aren’t happy about them. On Saturday of Martin Luther King Day weekend, over 700 concerned Floridians gathered for the Rally for the Rockland to protest the planned developments. Their concern is shared by the Center for Biological Diversity, Pine Rockland Coalition, Sierra Club, the South Florida Wildlands Association, among others. What’s galling for the rally organizers, is what’s at stake if this globally-imperiled ecosystem is developed. What does it say about our state, that commercial development is privileged over ecosystem and resource management? More than that, what does it say about Florida, that we’re even having this conversation?
Recorded live at Number3 London in Deptford, we showcase some of the most exciting new bands and curators playing at the Camden Crawl 2014, including highlights from Rocklands at Belushi’s, 1-2-3-4 at the Electric Ballroom and Pink Mist at the Purple Turtle. Expect German revolutionaries, Kentish hoodlums and South London dubsteppers… Playlist: Bad For Lazarus - My Muddle Woahnows - Watching Accidents Yuck - Southern Skies Arrows of Love – Prescriptions Au Revoir Simone - Crazy Girls Names - Blood River Plastician – Japan Soccer 96 – California Mourning Birds - Eve Of The Isle Youth Man – Salt Thumpers – Unkinder Bad Wolf - Honeycomb Atari Teenage Riot - Revolution Action Twitter.com/earwaxradio Facebook.com/earwaxradio Instagram.com/earwaxradio
Cult underground new music radio show earwax is now officially homeless, strange loop studios our home for the last 6 months is being demolished to make way for a morrisson’s supermarket. So this could very well be the last earwax radio show! So to go out in style our very special guests in session are electro pop heroines Toy Toy, we also bring you new music from all over the UK with tracks from Lancaster’s very own The Three Ages Of Elvis, Birmingham’s The Traps, London based Anglo-French duo Panic Attract, Derby’s Mascot Fight and back to our very own South London with Nigel Of Bermondsey! Playlist: The Three Ages Of Elvis – Charity Freefall FLA – Tie Me Up With Jackets Panic Attract – Picket Line Nigel Of Bermondsey – Overload Toy Toy – The Me Song (Earwax Radio Session Version) M.D. – Kid Gloves Mascot Fight – Thinking In French The Traps – Same Two Tricks Toy Toy – FMB (Earwax Radio Session Version) Previous sessions: http://www.mylivesession.com/recordings.php Videos: http://www.youtube.com/earwaxtelevision Earwax Radio show (bi-weekly broadcast) http://www.wax-music.com http://www.myspace.com/earwaxradio & More Music Tourist Board allies @ http://www.myspace.com/artfulmtb
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