POPULARITY
41 episodes with jck
10 episodes with jck
8 episodes with jck
5 episodes with jck
4 episodes with jck
5 episodes with jck
2 episodes with jck
3 episodes with jck
2 episodes with jck
Welcome to the Success With Jewelry podcast, hosted by Laryssa Wirstiuk and Liz Kantner, two experts passionate about helping independent jewelry artists thrive. Welcome to Success with Jewelry Episode #134! In this episode, we're breaking down Vegas jewelry week: Laryssa shares her on-the-ground experience walking both JCK and COUTURE, Liz dives into the shows' Instagram content highlights, and we discuss trends we spotted—whimsical designs, nostalgic vibes, unique chains, sculptural shapes, and playful movement. ✨ And for Insiders, we'll continue the unfiltered conversation—sharing more behind-the-scenes stories from the Vegas trade shows, how we prepped, what surprised us, and our thoughts on the growing influencer presence and what it means for the industry. Join our Patreon to unlock the extended episode: https://patreon.com/SuccesswithJewelry Liz Kantner works with independent jewelry artists to help them find their unique voices and succeed in today's marketplace. With over ten years of experience in jewelry marketing and sales, Liz offers consulting services and digital strategy. She's also the founder of the Stay Gold Collective, a private group providing live training, industry insights, and personalized feedback. Learn more at https://www.lizkantner.com. Laryssa Wirstiuk is the founder and creative director of Joy Joya, a digital marketing agency for the jewelry industry. She's the author of Jewelry Marketing Joy and the creator of JoyDeck, a platform designed to make marketing accessible for jewelry makers and designers. Laryssa brings her extensive marketing expertise to the podcast, helping jewelers grow their businesses. Discover more at https://joyjoya.com. Tune in to hear Liz and Laryssa share valuable insights, tips, and strategies for success in the jewelry industry!
In this special episode of Legacy of Luxury, we take you behind the scenes of JCK Las Vegas 2025 — the jewelry industry’s biggest event of the year. From couture showcases to the “gypsy underbelly,” we share raw reflections, favorite finds, and what it’s like to experience the show for the first time. Hear about the trends, tech, and timeless craftsmanship that define the future of luxury jewelry.
In this episode of the BAJ Podcast, we speak to Rob Bates, award-winning journalist and News Director at JCK, to explore the ever-evolving world of jewellery—from the rise of lab-grown diamonds and the fall of De Beers' Lightbox, to the challenges of global news reporting and the future of journalism in the age of AI. With over 30 years of experience covering the industry, Rob shares fascinating insights into the trends shaping jewellery today and tomorrow, while also revealing how his passion for storytelling extends into the world of diamond-themed mystery novels. Tune in for a compelling conversation at the intersection of fact, fiction, and the future of sparkle.
Editorial integrity and independence in the watch world. It's a hot topic, and one we've explored before. But that was before today's guest penned her open letter to the watch industry published in Robb Report titled: "Watch Execs Need to Learn to Respect Journalistic Boundaries." Victoria Gomelsky is editor-in-chief of JCK, a New York City-based jewelry trade publication founded in 1869. Her writing on watches, jewelry and travel has appeared in the New York Times, Robb Report, WSJ Magazine, and the Hollywood Reporter, among many others. For detailed show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.
In The Jewelry District's first-ever video podcast, JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with JCK managing editor Melissa Rose Bernardo to discuss buzzworthy trends in categories from colored stones to diamonds. With JCK Las Vegas opening on June 6 and Luxury on June 4, it's the ideal time to catch up on the latest looks, from creative new gold and pearl earrings to Mocha Mousse gems and Guatemalan jade. JCK's experts also analyze what surging gold prices mean for retailers and designers and share a silver lining of tumultuous times—jewelry as an emotional support purchase. Watch here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=LymEiIA_QIU
Episode #325 – Turn Your Jewelry Story into a Timeless Legacy Ever wondered why some brands feel destined for greatness while others struggle to stand out? In this episode, we're diving into the power of your origin story—how a narrative filled with transformation and myth can transform your jewelry brand—and why setting clear boundaries is essential for protecting your time and value. Whether you're passionate about your craft or just starting out, learn how to harness your personal journey to create deep connections with your audience. In this episode, we'll explore: ✨ How to craft an origin story that goes beyond dates and facts to become a mythic journey ✨ The art of using sensory language and specificity to make your story resonate ✨ Real-life examples from iconic brands and emerging talents that show the magic of a well-told origin Plus, in The Gold Mine, I share my personal journey from overcommitment to standing up for my worth—revealing the hard lessons learned at JCK and how I turned unpaid labor into a lesson in self-respect. If you've ever wanted to elevate your brand story and ensure your hard work is truly valued, this episode is for you! Transcript: https://joyjoya.com/blogs/podcast/your-jewelry-journey-the-secret-to-a-timeless-brand
Author and industry expert Rob Bates joins Paul for the 8th time in episode #69 of the Paul Zimnisky Diamond Analytics Podcast. The episode begins with Paul airing his frustration over how some retailers are selling lab-grown diamonds. The two then discuss the current state of the larger diamond industry and the evolution of natural and LGD coexisting. Next, Rob shares what he sees as an analog between the debut of online diamond retailers in the 2000's, such as Blue Nile, and the more recent mainstream introduction of LGD. The two go on to discuss treated natural diamonds, the global recession in luxury goods, and how Rob's upcoming 4th book, “Making a Killing in Diamonds,” parallels some of the pertinent issues the diamond and jewelry industry faces. Hosted by: Paul Zimnisky Guest: Rob Bates Guest plug: www.robbatesauthor.com More information on PZDA's State of the Diamond Market report: www.paulzimnisky.com/products Show contact: paul@paulzimnisky.com or visit www.paulzimnisky.com. Please note that the contents of this podcast includes anecdotes, observations and opinions. The information should not be considered investment or financial advice. Consult your investment professional before making any investment decisions. Please read full disclosure at: www.paulzimnisky.com.
Predigt von Annegret Lange-Müller, Pastorin im JCK, am Sonntag, 29.12.2024. Gottesdienst im Jesus Centrum Kassel am 24.12.2024 - Heiligabend im JCK. Inmitten von Herausforderungen und Unsicherheiten kann der Glaube wie ein Anker sein, der uns Halt gibt. Schwere Zeiten stellen uns oft vor große Prüfungen, doch sie bieten auch die Möglichkeit, unser Vertrauen zu stärken und unsere Beziehung zu Gott zu vertiefen. Sei dabei, wenn wir gemeinsam entdecken: Wie wir in Krisen unseren Glauben festigen können, Praktische Wege, um Vertrauen in Gottes Plan zu finden, Ermutigende Geschichten von Menschen, die durch ihren Glauben gestärkt wurden. Lass uns zusammenkommen, um Trost und Hoffnung zu finden und ermutigt zu werden. Egal, wo du im Leben stehst, diese Predigt wird dir neue Perspektiven und Kraft für deinen Weg geben. Wir freuen uns auf dich! Lass uns gemeinsam im Glauben wachsen und die Kraft des Vertrauens erleben.
Predigt von Pastor Gideon Illner am Dienstag, 24.12.2024. Gottesdienst im Jesus Centrum Kassel am 24.12.2024 - Heiligabend im JCK
Today's Pearls of Wisdom podcast has Guy Pineda engaging the beautiful and charming women of RDI Diamonds in a casual and fun conversation. SJN also talks with the amazing Michael Indelicato, founder and CEO of RDI Diamonds. Tune in as Christy Davidson, RDI Diamond expert and Aubre Ford, RDI Senior Account Manager/RJO Lead, talk about some cool new offerings from RDI Diamonds. Listen to Christy introduce her awesome new moon pendant, Forever to the Moon and Back for Rare Forever, RDI's natural diamond brand. This pendant is not a totally new design, but what's amazing is the story that goes when customers purchase the jewelry. Aubre, as well, has some exciting news! RDI is giving away a free vacation package! Listen closely as Aubre discusses how jewelers can be entitled to this first-time promo from RDI. In a separate interview, Guy has an insightful conversation with RDI founder and CEO Michael Indelicato. Michael passionately tells the beginning story of RDI. Discover how RDI (Rochester Diamonds Incorporated) Diamonds, established in 1992, grew from being a family-owned small jewelry business into one of the most established wholesale diamond distributors in the U.S. and an international leader in the diamond industry. Michael also shares how valuing customers and employees contributed to his company's success. He also discusses what to expect from RDI in the coming months and years. If you are a jewelry store looking for a diamond jewelry supplier, RDI is going to be all over the place. Check out where they're heading to after JCK. Brought to you by: Southern Jewelry News: https://southernjewelrynews.com/ Jewelry Store Marketers: https://jewelrystoremarketers.com/ Learn more about the Pearls of Wisdom Jewelry Podcast https://southernjewelrynews.com/podcast Subscribe on your favorite podcast platform: • Apple Podcast = https://podcastsconnect.apple.com/my.-.. • Amazon Music/Audible = https://www.audible.com/pd/Pearls-of.-.. • iHeartRadio = https://www.iheart.com/podcast/263-pe... • Spotify = https://open.spotify.com/show/6IU1OHw... • Google Podcast = https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0...
You'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates share their reactions to the 2024 JCK show, including their impressions of the states of the diamond and lab-grown diamond sectors, takeaways from the De Beers breakfast, their experiences interviewing Botswana President Mokgweetsi Masisi, and how important it is for producer countries to have a presence at the show. Victoria talks about what she saw and learned from her press trip touring diamond factories in Surat, India with Ben Bridge. Sponsored by Tracr: tracr.com
Episode #292 - "JCK Vegas 2024 Recap - and How to Do a Mid-Year Jewelry Marketing Reset" Welcome to Episode #292. In today's episode, I want to cover a few different topics. First, I want to announce a very special opportunity that I'm opening up to emerging jewelry brands everywhere. If you've been intrigued by Joy Joya's grants in the past, you MUST check out this one. I also want to give a recap of my experience at JCK Las Vegas this year. It was one of my favorite times at JCK yet, and I'm so impressed with the events team and all their amazing efforts. Lastly, I want to share some tips about how you can facilitate a mid-year course correction for your marketing if you feel like you've gone off track. June is a time when we feel like we need a break, especially if you're coming back from the trade show. But at the same time, it's also a great opportunity to start planning for the holidays and get ahead of the busy season that's coming before we know it. You'll want to hear my tips for regaining your business equilibrium. In the Gold Mine, I share some things about JCK that inspired me and that I want to pass along to you to hopefully give you some ideas to spark your mid-year reset and go into the second half of 2024 with innovation in mind. Transcript: https://joyjoya.com/jewelry-marketing-reset Apply for the grant: https://jewelrybrandincubator.com 00:00 Start 3:01 Grant Announcement 8:31 Primary Episode Content 20:51 The Gold Mine
Welcome to episode #87. Laryssa's giving a JCK recap and then we chat about what's been on our minds when it comes to marketing - because we haven't had a chat for a few weeks! What were Laryssa's highlights from JCK? What the heck is going on with Meta? Updates about Instagram In the bonus content of this episode, we chat about Vegas trends. To get access to exclusive content as well as direct access to me and Laryssa, sign up by visiting https://SUCCESSWITHJEWELRY.com.
Familiengottesdinest, Jesus Centrum Kassel, am Sonntag, 09.06.2024. Der Teenager Glaubenskurs des JCK lädt dich herzlich ein, bei diesem durch die Teenager gestalteten Familiengottesdienst mit dem Thema Christ sein gestern - heute - morgen dabei zu sein. Alle Generationen des JCK werden zu Wort kommen, wenn wir uns mit der spannenden Frage beschäftigen "War Christ sein" früher einfacher?" Und wie ging es den Jüngern ganz früher als Jesus auf der Welt war? Zusammen wollen wir auch in Richtung Zukunft und kommende Generationen schauen und herausfinden, was Christ sein bedeutet und wie wir als Christen zu jeder Zeit leben können, weil Gott uns nie alleine lässt. Sei dabei bei diesem besonderen Gottesdienst!
Familiengottesdinest, Jesus Centrum Kassel, am Sonntag, 09.06.2024. Der Teenager Glaubenskurs des JCK lädt dich herzlich ein, bei diesem durch die Teenager gestalteten Familiengottesdienst mit dem Thema Christ sein gestern - heute - morgen dabei zu sein. Alle Generationen des JCK werden zu Wort kommen, wenn wir uns mit der spannenden Frage beschäftigen "War Christ sein" früher einfacher?" Und wie ging es den Jüngern ganz früher als Jesus auf der Welt war? Zusammen wollen wir auch in Richtung Zukunft und kommende Generationen schauen und herausfinden, was Christ sein bedeutet und wie wir als Christen zu jeder Zeit leben können, weil Gott uns nie alleine lässt. Sei dabei bei diesem besonderen Gottesdienst!
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates share interviews they captured live from the JCK 2024 show floor, including Jan Patrick Smith, CEO of John Hardy; David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council; Gina Fahnestock, Senior Associate of Responsible Sourcing and Sustainability at Brilliant Earth; Wesley Tucker, CEO of Tracr; Marie Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer of Kering; and Susan Jaques, President and CEO of GIA. Sponsored by Tracr: tracr.com
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates react to Watches of Switzerland's recent acquisition of Roberto Coin Inc. As the hosts discuss the slow growth of brands in the jewelry space, Victoria gives the fascinating backstory on Shinola's Gomelsky watch as an illustration of the challenges of launching a new brand. Victoria covers the exciting activations to look out for on the JCK show floor, all in the name of love—this year's JCK theme. Both hosts also run down the education sessions that you won't want to miss this year. Sponsored by Tracr: tracr.com
Mystery novelist and JCK News Director Rob Bates returns to the show for a seventh time. The show begins with Paul analyzing whether the current diamond market softness is more cyclical or secular in nature. Next, Paul and Rob talk about how the retail segment of the trade is currently viewing lab-grown diamonds and whether a “pivot” back to natural diamonds is in the cards. The two then discuss what they got right and wrong about the evolution of LGD jewelry over the last decade. Next, Paul and Rob dissect a ruling by the U.K.'s Advertising Standards Agency pertaining to LGD producer Skydiamond and they share thoughts on news of for-profit gem-lab IGI reportedly considering a public offering. Finally, the two opine on the watch market and whether they would personally buy a Rolex. Hosted by: Paul Zimnisky Guest: Rob Bates Guest plug: www.robbatesauthor.com More information on PZDA's State of the Diamond Market report: www.paulzimnisky.com/products Show contact: paul@paulzimnisky.com or visit www.paulzimnisky.com. Please note that the contents of this podcast includes anecdotes, observations and opinions. The information should not be considered investment or financial advice. Consult your investment professional before making any investment decisions. Please read full disclosure at: www.paulzimnisky.com.
What's trending for 2024? In this episode, Jessica Richards of JMR Trend & Creative, shares her insights into how trend forecasting goes beyond the latest “core” trend on TikTok and can influence now only the product that you design or buy for your boutique, but also your marketing. We reminisce on our early days working together in the fashion industry, and then get into the good stuff. In this episode, Jessica shares: - Her 2024 fashion industry trend predictions - The trend forecasting process - How “core” trends form and are part of a larger trend picture - Differences in generational consumer behaviors between Millennial, Gen Z and Gen Alpha - The future of Brick & Mortar About Jessica! Jessica Richards is a trend forecaster, style storyteller, and founder of JMR trend + creative, whose synergistic focus inspires what is now and next. With an extensive background in forecasting and design for major North American retailers, she brings a forward-thinking yet commercial and brand-right viability to product and editorial content projects across the fashion and wellness industries. She has been quoted and featured as a guest expert across international media, including the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, VOGUE, ELLE, New York Magazine, and more. She has also spoken as a trade expert for industry events, serving as a sought-after educational panelist for organizations such as MAGIC, JCK, Atlanta Apparel, NY NOW, and WWIN; as well as formerly serving as Fashion Director for the Accessories Council and its trade publication. Connect with Jessica: JMR Trend + Creative InstagramCONNECT FURTHER WITH KRISTIN! Listen to the private podcast series UNLOCK FAIRE - Get instant access HERE Join The Buyerside Club facebook community for coaching & connection in your product business. Join HERE! Website: kristinfishercoaching.com Follow on Instagram: @kristinfishercoaching Contact: hello@kristinfishercoaching.com
A thousand facets sits with Cristina Villegas from Moyo Gems and we talk about the importance of artisanal miner or small-scale miner (ASM). How she help created an environment of education and empowerment of women miners in Kenya and Tanzania to thrive and the importance of educating oneself in the gemstones and gold we use for our jewelry. This is a truly important conversation. About Cristina Maria Villegas is the Director of Sustainable Jewelry & Strategic Initiatives at Pact, a global nonprofit organization at work in 40 countries worldwide. She is a leading expert on responsible mineral sourcing and on artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM). With deep experience across Africa, Asia and Latin America, she is best known for her specialty in colored gemstones, diamonds, and gold. Cristina is the co-founder of Moyo Gems, a direct sourcing initiative focused on the women gemstone miners and entrepreneurs of East Africa. She is a member of the Gemstone Knowledge Hub, is on the Board of Directors of Ethical Metalsmiths, is an ASM advisor to the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, and is a technical advisor to the Conservation X Prize's Amazon Grand Challenge. She's been quoted in Vogue, The Financial Times, The Guardian, Reuters, Wired, JCK, among others. She lectures for Columbia University's Executive Course on Extractives and for Columbia University's Massive Open Online Course (MOOC), where she leads the coursework on ASM. In 2021, she won the top prize in jewelry reform: The IAC Award for Leadership in Responsible Practice in Jewelry. You can follow Cristina on Instagram @cristina.rocks and @moyogems, visit her website www.moyogems.com , www.natureswealth.org Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Predigt von Pastor Matthias Jordan, Jesus Centrum Kassel, am Sonntag, 14.01.2024. Wie können wir als ganz natürliche Menschen, Gottes übernatürliche Kraft erleben? Glaube macht es möglich. Doch was ist eigentlich Glaube? Können wir etwas dazu beitragen, dass ein übernatürlicher Glaube in unserem Leben aktiviert wird? Die Bibel spricht interessanterweise von einem "Senfkornglauben". Gemeinsam wollen wir uns als JCK nach dieser Dimension des übernatürlichen Glaubens ausstrecken, um Gottes Wunder in unserem Alltag immer mehr zu erleben.
Predigt von Pastor Matthias Jordan, Jesus Centrum Kassel, am Sonntag, 14.01.2024. Wie können wir als ganz natürliche Menschen, Gottes übernatürliche Kraft erleben? Glaube macht es möglich. Doch was ist eigentlich Glaube? Können wir etwas dazu beitragen, dass ein übernatürlicher Glaube in unserem Leben aktiviert wird? Die Bibel spricht interessanterweise von einem "Senfkornglauben". Gemeinsam wollen wir uns als JCK nach dieser Dimension des übernatürlichen Glaubens ausstrecken, um Gottes Wunder in unserem Alltag immer mehr zu erleben.
Ep. 44 – RX Group Vice President Sarin Bachmann: Taking Luxe to the Next Level RX Group VP Sarin Bachmann shares her experience as a member of senior leadership team at RX, a public company that produces more than 400 events covering 43 sectors in 22 countries. She shines a light on the RX jewelry portfolio that she oversees — one of the few at RX that includes several events like JCK, Luxury and JIS, as well as digital and print media products for the JCK brand — JCKonline.com and JCK Magazine. We talked about: Her recent appearance as a speaker on the stage at the recent UFI Global Congress in Las Vegas where she talked about risk management and her experience with events during hurricane season in Miami, home of JIS How her team was able to achieve an impressive 24% increase in attendance at the JIS Fall Show in October in Miami Beach: Marketing the destination and capitalizing on the bleisure trend Bringing back in person: How she led the team that produced the first show for RX US in March 2021 in the jewelry sector that soared during Covid What's hot in digital in her portfolio: Everything, but especially the launch of a holiday gift guide The theme for the 2024 JCK show at the Venetian in Las Vegas: Love … she revealed What she's looking forward to in 2024: Adding a sustainability summit at JCK, which is on pace to sell out again Giving back to the industry through the JCK Industry Fund, which has awarded more than $300,000 in grants this year Our Guest Sarin Block Bachmann, Group Vice President of RX, is a member of RX's Senior Leadership Team and oversees RX's jewelry portfolio including JCK, Luxury, and JIS events along with the digital and print elements of the JCK brand—JCKonline.com and JCK Magazine. One of RX's largest and most important events globally, JCK has thrived under Bachmann's leadership. Bachmann directly manages JCK while overseeing Event Leaders on both Luxury and JIS and has steered JCK to become an industry leading, award-winning event in the trade show industry, and the most important jewelry buying and educational event globally for the jewelry industry. Luxury, the curated, invitation-only event taking place alongside JCK has also been reimagined under Bachmann's portfolio as the event for the luxury jewelry community. JCK and Luxury bring over 30,000 industry professionals together, including 18,000+ vetted attendees from over 100 countries and 2,000 exhibitors, ranging from designers, manufacturers, and gemstone wholesalers to packaging companies and technology service providers. The show covers 1.2 million square feet of exhibition space at the iconic Venetian Expo and The Venetian Las Vegas. Under her leadership in event strategy, planning, execution, sales, attendance, acquisition, marketing, public relations, operations and special events, Bachmann has achieved all-time high ratings for both exhibitor and attendee satisfaction, loyalty and net promotion for both JCK and Luxury, increasing scores between 15 to 20% and over 30 points in NPS overall. Furthermore, under her strategic and creative direction, JCK has led the way in becoming a top experiential event that attendees not only consider necessary for their business but also eagerly anticipate attending. In the digital realm, Bachmann led the team in bringing JCK to the industry virtually in 2020, with the JCK Virtual show being a pioneer in launching digital offers in light of the pandemic limiting face-to-face events. In March of 2021, Bachmann led the team to bring back the first show for RX US, JIS, and continued to forge the team ahead in bringing back in-person JCK and Luxury events in August as some of the first large scale trade shows returning to face-to-face, all to great success. New to Bachmann's achievements are leading the JCK team in exceeding pre-pandemic 2019 show levels before most shows, in both sales revenue, attendance, and much higher NPS and customer satisfaction scores, with the 2022 edition marking a milestone year in the event's history and winning Trade Show Executives Gold 100 “Greatest Trade Show” of the year award. This was then followed up under Bachmann's leadership with the 2023 edition continuing to grow to a sold out show floor and increasing attendance once again. As a member of RX's senior leadership team, Bachmann plays a critical role in shaping event leaders across RX US, leading bi-monthly Event Leader meetings where key issues are discussed and best practices are shared across the division leaders. Bachmann also leads the way with activations and experiences, playing a crucial part of JCK and serving as a model for other B2B events, along with increasing the focus on DE&I in all the industries she serves forging partnerships with key members of diverse groups including the Black in Jewelry Coalition and leading by example at her shows and RX. Bachmann utilizes her experience in change management by serving as the Executive Sponsor and liaison for the show teams with the digital team during RX's roll out of a new registration system across RX US. Bachmann currently serves on the executive boards of the American Gem Society, Jewelers' Security Alliance, 24 Karat Club of New York, Women's Jewelry Association and UFI Global Congress Advisory, as well as on the GEM Awards committee and chair of the JCK Industry Fund committee. Ms. Bachmann holds a BS in Business Administration from the University of Albany and the prestigious honor of having been invited to participate in the GE Management Development Course. She was also one of a select few to be chosen for the Reed Elsevier Business University. Her career trajectory began in consulting as a Process Design Consultant with Andersen Consulting (Accenture). She expanded into communications as a Six Sigma certified Master Black Belt for General Electric at NBC and later became the Director of E-Business for NBC's Broadcast and Network Operations Division. Now serving close to two decades in show management, Bachmann is a well-rounded and well-known professional, highly regarded throughout the jewelry and trade show industries. When she is not achieving record breaking results in the industry, Bachmann is spending time with her husband, visiting her two sons in college, taking a workout class, or relaxing on a beautiful beach. Awards & Accolades for JCK and Luxury under Bachmann's Leadership (Present – 2019): Trade Show Executive – 2023 Gold 100 Grand Award “The Greatest Trade Show” of 2022 RX GLOBAL – Building Business Awards: 2022 Show of the Year RX USA – Team of the Year Award 2022 Trade Show Executive – 2022 Fastest 50 in all three categories for JCK – Attendance, Exhibitors, Square Feet, and all three shows JCK, Luxury & JIS receiving Fastest 50 Awards AEO Excellence Awards (UK) Short List Finalist for 2022 Best International Show – Americas Trade Show Executive – 2022 Gold 100 Grand Award “The Show Must Go On” for 2021 event Tradeshow News Network (TSNN) 2022 Comeback Award, Outstanding Attendance for 2021 event Trade Show Executive – Grand Award Gold 100 “Return to Normal” for 2020 event Tradeshow News Network (TSNN) Best of Technology Award for JCK Match program 2019 Podcast Host: Danica Tormohlen An award-winning journalist who has covered the trade show industry since 1994, Danica Tormohlen is VP of Content for Tarsus Group, which was recently acquired by Informa for $940 million. In her role, she oversees content for Trade Show News Network, Corporate Event News and Exhibit News Now. These leading media brands publish websites, newsletters, social media channels, video, podcasts and online and in-person programming for the trade show, corporate event and exhibition industries. Tormohlen currently serves as a board member for Women in Exhibitions Network North America chapter. She has been a speaker and moderator at major industry events, including the TSNN Awards, IMEX, IAEE, SISO, UFI, ESCA and Large Show Roundtable — to name a few. Thank you to our sponsor! Zenus What if you could prove your event is working with hard facts and learn how to make it even better? With Zenus's Ethical Vision AI, you can protect your budget and have detailed reporting. Learn how that's all possible at Zenus.AI
Robin Kramer is a brand marketing maven, natural business nurturer, master of relationships, and a sales expert who has an impressive history with leaders in the retail industry who have built their brands on innovative merchandising and strong service cultures. Among these brands is Williams-Sonoma, Inc., where she utilized her operations management background to develop and refine the process of opening new stores during a period of rapid expansion across that organization's three retail brands: Williams-Sonoma, Pottery Barn, and Hold Everything. Kramer overhauled the store's associate recognition program; she also led the customer service functions for all retail brands, including the development and implementation of service standards in stores and call centers. She went on to implement similar programs and new initiatives at another forward-thinking retail brand, the Old Navy division of Gap, Inc.For the past 20+ years, Robin has worked with primarily small, upscale wholesale jewelry brands and designers to bring their products to market, position these niche brands for maximum exposure to their target customers, and build relationships with national and international retailers. One such brand was Dogeared, where she helped them grow from a small company into a well-known jewelry brand with sales growth of over 800% in the five years she was there. She has a keen eye for recognizing products and designs that represent a unique and fresh approach in a crowded and competitive space.In 2010, Robin founded Red Boot Consulting, and in 2012, she co-founded Flourish & Thrive Academy, an online business educational platform for jewelry designers worldwide. She has had the pleasure of speaking and moderating panel discussions at various conferences for Flourish & Thrive Academy's F&T LIVE event, NY NOW Retail Renaissance trade show, American Handcrafted trade show, JCK trade show, ISGB (International Society of Glass Beads) conference, SNAG (Society of North American Goldsmiths) conference, and as a featured guest on the Beads, Baubles & Jewels PBS TV Show.She has a passion for helping creatives go after their dreams. And for red boots! She divides her time between Sausalito, CA, and Dallas, TX. Here, Michelle and Robin chat about Robin's amazing career and how it evolved over the years. They discuss how Robin started Red Boot Consulting, how she works with clients, and what her mastermind program is like. The conversation also includes merchandising tips, why businesses need to know their numbers, and the importance of phone calls and great customer service.MC Design Academy is designed to be a space where I get to share my expertise with you, where you'll get to learn all about visual merchandising, design, display, retail, and everything in between. Come along as I practice my craft and be sure to like, subscribe, and follow our socials to keep updated. See you in the merchandising land of MC Design Academy!What's Inside:How Robin built her extensive sales, marketing, and consulting career.How Robin works with clients through her company, Red Boot Consulting.Merchandising and customer service tips.Mentioned In This Episode:Red Boot ConsultingRobin on Instagram
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates pay tribute to former JCK editor Hedda Schupak, who passed away this month. An industry icon as well as a mentor to Victoria and Rob, Hedda steered the magazine successfully through major changes in the early 2000s and played a key role in the early days of its annual Las Vegas trade show. Rob updates listeners on the latest news in Russian diamond sanctions, and Victoria shares highlights from her recent trip to Japan to visit Grand Seiko's studio in the mountain town Shizukuishi. Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Jam packed pizza party! Dave Holmes celebrates St. Louis' controversial pizza, Arthur reads pizza news and we have a very important debate over Detroit-style pizza with author, Karen Dybis.Dave Holmes is the host of the podcasts Homophilia, Waiting for Impact, among others. He is the author of the 2016 book, “Party of One: A Memoir in 21 Songs.” Dave was also an MTV VJ from 1998 to 2002. Currently he's Editor-at-Large for Esquire and his Post Malone cover story is out now.Karen Dybis is a long time business reporter, writing for The Detroit News, U.S. News & World Report, Time magazine, and currently JCK. She's the author of five local history books about Detroit, including Better Made in Michigan, and “Detroit Style Pizza: A Doughtown History”.This podcast is brought to you by, Ooni Pizza Ovens. Go to Ooni.com for more information. This podcast is brought to you by Ooni Pizza Ovens. Go to Ooni.com for more information.Follow us for more information!Instagram: @pizzapodparty @NYCBestPizza @AlfredSchulz4Twitter: @PizzaPodParty @ArthurBovino @AlfredSchulzTikTok: @thepizzapodpartyThreads: @pizzapodparty @NYCBestPizza @AlfredSchulz4
Dans cet épisode, j'ai eu le plaisir de recevoir Jean-Charles Kurdali, qui avait un objectif clair : il ne voulait plus laisser sa vie au hasard, mais la vivre avec intention ! Jean-Charles se définit comme un Philopreneur, c'est-à-dire quelqu'un qui est animé par une volonté profonde et une détermination inébranlable à façonner sa propre destinée. Au cours de notre discussion, Jean-Charles a partagé les moments clés qui ont marqué son parcours de vie. Il nous a raconté sa période scolaire, une époque où il vivait sans vraiment réaliser son potentiel. Il nous a expliqué comment il a découvert la signification derrière ses actions et les principes qui ont guidé sa quête d'une vie pleine de sens
Paul welcomes Rob Bates back to the show to discuss the release of his third book in the Diamond District Mystery Series, "Slay it With a Diamond." The conversation begins with Paul asking Rob if he gets a “serotonin boost” upon the completion of a book. Next, the two delve into the question of whether there will be a specific cataclysmic moment that changes the trajectory of the lab-diamond industry as supply feverishly grows and prices fall. Next, Paul and Rob explain why they think natural diamonds will persevere in the midst of current challenges and Paul shares why he thinks Paris-based Fred Joaillier's approach to lab-diamonds will be successful. The two then discuss what percentage of lab-diamond consumers want people to think it's a natural and Rob's talks about expressing emotion with a Cracker Jack ring. Finally, Paul and Rob analyze De Beers' strategy towards lab-diamonds and the resale of natural diamonds. Hosted by: Paul Zimnisky Guest: Rob Bates Guest plug: Amazon link to buy Rob's third book More information on PZDA's State of the Diamond Market report: www.paulzimnisky.com/products Show contact: paul@paulzimnisky.com or visit www.paulzimnisky.com. Please note that the contents of this podcast includes anecdotes, observations and opinions. The information should not be considered investment or financial advice. Consult your investment professional before making any investment decisions. Please read full disclosure at: www.paulzimnisky.com.
BONUS EPISODE - "Come to My "Office Hours" at JCK Las Vegas! And Apply for a $12K Grant!" Links and Info From This Episode: $12K Jewelry Marketing Grant - https://joyjoya.com/grant "Jewelry Marketing Jumpstart" - https://joyjoya.com/jump JCK Social Media Talks: How to Make Sense of Your Social Media Analytics Friday, June 2 at 12:30pm How to do a Social Media Audit Saturday, June 3 at 3:30pm ChatGPT/AI to Help You Streamline Social Media Creation and Posting Sunday, June 4 at 12:30pm Hey there, Sparklers! Before the upcoming JCK event and Memorial Day holiday, I wanted to treat you with a quick bonus episode. Here are some important announcements and reminders: First, don't forget to apply for the Joy Joya Jewelry Marketing Grant. It's an exciting opportunity for independent US-based jewelry brands. The chosen recipient will receive six months of FREE digital marketing services worth $12,000 and the chance to share their journey on our podcast. To qualify, your business should have been operating for at least three years, have a Shopify website, active Instagram presence, engage in email marketing, and connect Google Analytics. The deadline is June 2, 2023. Visit https://joyjoya.com/grant for details. If you'll be attending JCK, join me for my three talks on the social media stage. Afterward, we can hang out and chat during my "office hours." Can't make it to Vegas? Subscribe to my YouTube channel, Joy Joya, for live content from the show. I also want to remind you about Jewelry Marketing Jumpstart, a free podcast-guided program running until July. By signing up at https://JoyJoya.com/JUMP, you'll gain access to 19 PDF worksheets, including templates and videos. Even after JCK, there will be eight more worksheets to help you with business development and learning. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at laryssa@joyjoya.com or leave a comment on YouTube—I respond to all of them! If you enjoyed this podcast, please share it with a friend and leave a review on Apple Podcasts. And if you're new to digital marketing, check out my book, JEWELRY MARKETING JOY, at https://joyjoya.com/book. Thanks for tuning in, and stay sparkling! 00:00 - Start 0:29 - Jewelry Marketing Grant 2:01 - JCK "Office Hours" and Social Media Talks 3:12 - Jewelry Marketing Jumpstart
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss the much-anticipated reopening of Tiffany & Co.'s iconic Fifth Avenue store, now called The Landmark. Victoria also reports on her recent trip to Geneva for Watches and Wonders, where traffic was brisk, the mood was upbeat, and Rolex wowed the crowds with unexpected splashes of color and whimsy. Rob updates listeners on what's new at Signet Jewelers after attending a recent Investors' Day at the New York Stock Exchange.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes00:49: Tiffany & Co. Reimagines its Famous Flagship05:30: Rob Heads to AGS Conclave to Gauge the State of the Industry07:10: Rolex Brightens a Busy Watches and Wonders Exhibition15:18: What's New at Signet Jewelers Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.com Show Recap Tiffany Offers a Sneak Peek at its Reimagined FlagshipVictoria seldom flies across the country to attend a party, but she's making an exception for the much-anticipated reopening of Tiffany & Co.'s Fifth Avenue flagship store on May 27th. After a three-year closure and a complete makeover, what will The Landmark—as it's now called—look like? Rob remembers visiting the iconic store as a JCK mystery and being surprised to find it warmly welcoming. It was almost homey in those days, he says. Victoria predicts the new iteration will be decidedly sleeker and more luxe since the brand's target demographic is now considerably more affluent. “There's a parallel story about the importance of brick-and-mortar,” Victoria observes. When she interviewed Tiffany CEO Anthony Ledru recently, he called The Landmark “the heart and soul of Tiffany.” The company is putting a major focus on its physical stores, expanding and renovating flagships in Seoul, Sao Paolo, and other parts of the world, she adds. When the pandemic reached its zenith, it looked like the future might be entirely virtual and digital, but “that's not the case at all,” Victoria says. “The importance of brick and mortar is more apparent than ever.” Rob to Moderate Conclave PanelVictoria's not the only one with travel plans. In early May Rob will head to Louisville, Kentucky, for the American Gem Society's Conclave event, where he'll moderate an expert panel on how the industry is faring in 2023 and gauge the outlook for the future. Victoria is eager to hear his takeaways. She predicts JCK's audience will be too. “It's been a confusing year, with the lingering specter of recession,” she points out. “People are waiting for some guidance.” Rolex Brightens a Busy Watches and WondersThe conversation shifts to Victoria's recent trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders in Geneva. This year's bustling conference was a far cry from the quiet show of 2022, when quarantine kept Chinese buyers, retailers, and press away. “It felt upbeat and buzzy” in spite of the logistical frustrations inevitable in a crowded convention center, she says. The optimism surprised Victoria, who expected the drop in secondary watch prices after last spring's crypto collapse to put a damper on people's moods. Instead she found an enthusiastic crowd and a robust array of new offerings. The most talked-about were whimsical, colorful watches from Rolex, a new direction for the brand. One featured a Celebration Dial with balloons in a rainbow of colors. Another was an off-catalogue model with 31 emojis and seven inspirational words like “love” and “faith” instead of dates and days of the week. Victoria says this is the first time she has seem Rolex introduce a concept piece and, despite some hate from internet trolls, show attendees loved the fresh, vivid newcomers. She gives the company kudos for introducing innovative offerings that break through some sameness in the category. Rob asks about Rolex's recently introduced Certified Pre-Owned Programme. Victoria says people still aren't sure how it will work, but she thinks secondhand dealers are likely diversifying and refocusing on other brands because they may not be able to compete with Rolex's proprietary program. Signet Focuses on Affordable LuxuryTurning their attention back to the U.S., Rob reports on the Signet Jewelers' Investor Day he recently attended at the New York Stock Exchange. He was impressed by the executive team—and the fact that the majority of its members are female. “Five years ago it would have been all men and one woman,” he notes. “It's a very different company than before Gina Drosos took the helm” and one he believes is in very capable hands. Signet is focusing on expanding its accessible luxury offerings, though Victoria notes that the term is highly subjective. We all define “affordable” differently. In Signet's case, Rob expects it will mean higher price points. The company also plans to expand its bridal offerings and to attract female shoppers, a goal that may pose challenges for traditionally male-focused names like Jared, James Allen, Blue Nile, and Diamonds Direct, Rob says. These four companies were once competitors, so finding their place in the Signet family of brands may take some time, Rob predicts. Signet also reported that engagements are expected to return to normal levels now that the boom is subsiding. Rob points out that Signet has become the go-to source for market statistics, data that he and Victoria agree is extremely valuable for the industry.
About Jeremy Shepherd, Hisano Shepherd and Pearl Paradise: Jeremy Shepherd is a leader, innovator, and a disruptor. From an early age he struck out on his own to satisfy his fierce independence, need for adventure, and a more satisfying way of life. As a teenager, he traveled to Japan alone and stayed to attend high school. He is self-taught and fluent in Japanese, Spanish and Micronesian. Through college, Jeremy worked for Passport to Languages as an interpreter of all three languages. To continue his world travels, became a flight attendant in 1996 and soon began importing pearls during his runs to Asia. In a sector dominated by generations old family businesses, Jeremy endeavored to become a first generation, self-taught pearl importer, dealer, and internet reseller. Over the past 20 years, he has traveled to pearl producing areas all over the world creating relationships with pearl producers, exporters, and people dedicated to support the pearl industry. He is an entrepreneur and e-commerce expert who has spent more than 25 years in the digital space. My experience includes developing, curating and launching direct-to-consumer, televised deal segments for NBCUniversal and TelevisaUnivision, and building one of the largest direct-to-consumer pearl brands in the world. Hisano has been fascinated by the art of jewelry making since early childhood. In pursuit of this passion, she graduated with a Bachelor of Fine Arts Degree in Jewelry and Metalsmithing from California State University of Long Beach and then followed this with a Masters of Fine Arts in Jewelry at State University New York at New Paltz. After graduation, Hisano put her passion and education to work in the jewelry industry as a designer and educator, finding a part time position at PearlParadise.com, Inc, and teaching metalsmithing and jewelry design at two separate colleges. Today, Hisano is a permanent, full time member of the team and has since become the Chief Creative Officer overseeing all design, production and purchasing. Hisano also launched her personal line, little h, in 2012. Her pieces have won tremendous acclaim and have found fans from the First Lady of the United States to superstar Taylor Swift and many others. Founded in 1996 and brought online in 2000, Pearl Paradise has grown into the world's largest online pearl company. With a custom-built, 1,300-cubic-foot vault filled with pearls, we offer a selection of pearls unlike any other pearl seller, online or off. Our commitment to offering prices 80 percent below retail has accelerated our growth. With more than a quarter million satisfied customers to date, we have benefited greatly by word-of-mouth advertising. Our commitment to quality, customer service and unbeatable pricing and selection has helped us become the Internet's premier source of pearl jewelry. The reputation we have built based on the quality of our merchandise has attracted the attention of journalists around the world. We have been blessed with glowing articles in The Wall Street Journal, The Financial Times, USA Today, Entrepreneur Magazine, Investor's Business Daily, and Inc. Magazine, to name just a few. The pearl and jewelry industry has followed our growth and featured us in respected industry publications like Modern Jeweler, Jewelry News Asia, and JCK.At Pearl Paradise, we are all world-class pearl experts. Every team member is required to complete the Gemological Institute of America's pearl diploma program. In addition, our entire team has completed the Pearls as One, Cultured Pearl Association of America's Pearl Specialist Certification. This course was written and created by our own CEO, Jeremy Shepherd.
What you'll learn in this episode: What jewelry can tell us about the aesthetics and values of a particular era. Why sustainability in the jewelry industry is essential, and why the definition of “sustainable” is much broader than we might think. Why maintaining purpose is the key to making our world and our creative work better. Why the term “ethical jewelry” is less about materials and more about our choices as consumers and makers. How Lisa decides which topics deserve attention at Initiatives in Art and Culture's conferences. About Lisa Koenigsberg Lisa Koenigsberg is President and Founder, Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) and an internationally recognized thought-leader in visual culture. Koenigsberg's work is characterized by commitment to authenticity, artisanry, materials, sustainability, and responsible practice. Over 20 years ago, she established IAC's multi-disciplinary conference series on visual culture and has since been responsible for launching its web-based webinars and other offerings. She has held leadership positions at NYU where she also served on the faculty, at several major museums, and at the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. Koenigsberg's writings have appeared in such books as The Art of Collecting (ed. D. Jensen), Auspicious Vision: Edward Wales Root and American Modernism, Architecture: A Place for Women (eds. E. P. Berkeley and M. McQuaid), The Gilded Edge: The Art of the Frame (ed. E. Wilner), in journals such as Gems and Jewellery (the publication of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain), American Art Journal, Proceedings of the American Antiquarian Society, and Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians, as well as in magazines and in Trendvision's Trendbook. A frequent speaker, she has also organized symposia and special sessions at universities, museums, and professional organizations throughout the US and abroad, including at the State Art Collections of Dresden, NYU, City University Graduate Center, the Smithsonian Institution, the Norton Museum of Art, and the United Nations, and has organized and chaired sessions at the American Association of Museums, the Goldsmiths Company (London), the Society of Architectural Historians, Yale University Art Gallery, the Aspen Institute, and the Jewelry Industry Summit and at JCK. She holds graduate degrees from The Johns Hopkins University and from Yale University from which she received her PhD. She is president of the Board of the Morris–Jumel Museum, a trustee of Glessner House in Chicago, and is a member of the Advisory Board of Ethical Metalsmiths and of the board of the NY Silver Society. Additional Resources: Initiatives in Art and Culture Instagram Initiatives in Art and Culture Facebook Initiatives in Art and Culture Linkedin Initiatives in Art and Culture Linktr.ee Lisa Koenigsberg Linkedin Photos are available on TheJewelryJourney.com Transcript: What is sustainable jewelry? According to Lisa Koenigsberg, it's about much more than the materials used. As founder of Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC), Lisa has organized dozens of conferences to encourage people to explore sustainability, stores of value, visual culture and more, all through the lens of jewelry. She joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about what visual culture is and why it's significant; what it means for makers and jewelry professionals to maintain purpose; and what we can expect from IAC's upcoming conferences. Read the episode transcript here. Sharon: Hello everyone. Welcome to the Jewelry Journey Podcast. This is the first part of a two-part episode. Please make sure you subscribe so you can hear part two as soon as it's released later this week. Today, my guest is Lisa Koenigsberg speaking to us from New York and environs back east. She is the founder of Initiatives in Art and Culture, which is focused on a number of issues such as women in western art. There's also a conference, which I just noticed, on arts and crafts in the art world. She is an internationally recognized authority on material culture. This July, she is chairing an important conference called “Maintaining Purpose” with a focus on how to make something we all love, jewelry. We'll learn more about her jewelry journey today and hear more about the conference. I didn't go into all the details of the conference and her background because it would take too long. Lisa, welcome to the program. Lisa: Thank you. It's so nice to be here. Sharon: Tell us about your jewelry journey. Were you a jeweler? Were you educated as a jeweler? Lisa: No, I am not a jeweler. I am the child of two people who are very object-driven and, of course, a mother with extraordinary taste. But in terms of how you might say I studied jewelry, jewelry was part of what we looked at when thinking about—a term I find not felicitous, but I'll use it for the moment—decorative arts, so fitting into the range of the useful and the beautiful. Silver, for example. Jewelry certainly had a space there, and that was the earliest point for me that was non-life-driven. One of the great blessings that happened to me was that I did my graduate work at Yale. That was when the arts and crafts movement wasn't codified in the same way it is now. We sat around and talked about it in the back room of the American Arts office. There were objects there, and we had the opportunity to hold, see, explore. At the time, I also used to wash silver and jewelry for an extraordinary dealer who wrote a wonderful book, Rosalie Roberian. One of the things that did was give me a sense of weight, dimension, proportion, of engaging closely with materiality. Although the arts and crafts is one dimension, I think that illustrates well one of the things that has been so important for me, which is looking for the opportunity to hold, the opportunity to talk with makers. For example, every year, The Goldsmiths' Company in the U.K. does something called the Goldsmiths' Fair. At the Goldsmiths' Fair, there is one week with 67 or so makers. During that time, you can go and speak with any of the makers, explore the work in your hand, look closely at it. I think the journey of looking is probably one of the most important things. I've been interested in jewelry as a manifestation of the aesthetic of any era for a very long time as well. My background and training are cross-disciplinary. I'm an American studies person. For me, one of the things I always look for is what we are seeing as characteristic of an age, for example. I see jewelry as very much a part of the tangible expressions of an era. For example, if you're talking about a brooch, you can be working on a sculpture for the body, similarly with neckwear. It's one of the most intriguing forms of expression there is. Making jewelry, the impulse to craft out of whatever the culture sees as precious material, is one of the innate impulses we have, along with the urge to adorn. If you step back and think about it, jewelry is intertwined with so many events of state, events of faith, events of heart. The Pope, for example, wears the Fisherman's Ring, and at the passing of each Pope, that ring is shattered; a new ring is made. We're all currently fixated on the crown jewels as Charles' coronation comes up. All of that is actually jewelry. It's jewelry indicative of state, of lineage, obviously of aesthetics. The band that many of us wear on one left or right ring finger, as simple or as elaborate as it may be, that is jewelry. It's a signifier. It's also invested with tremendous emotion. Jewelry plays an enormously powerful role in culture. It's another kind of historical document. So, if we look at jewelry, we can learn things. For example, you can explore the kinds of ornament it was thought only men wore, but by actually going back and looking, as it was done in the exhibition “Golden Kingdoms,” you can see that women also wore certain kinds of major ceremonial ornament. You can learn from the inscriptions. You can learn about stylistic transmission from the aesthetics. One of the things we don't think about so much is what we leave behind. When we go and look at how we have explored previous cultures, past cultures, one of the things we see is that the documents are often what have been termed luxury arts. They are art that are made of objects that are deemed precious within a culture. They demonstrate a certain egis over resources and talent, but they also serve as documents of that culture. They tell us things about religion, about aesthetics, about faith, about ritual. We need to be thinking about that with regard to jewelry in our own age as well. What are we leaving behind? Sharon: You cover so many things in Initiatives in Art and Culture. You talk about gems and sustainability and art. It's so many things. How did you start this, and what is the conference about? Lisa: I founded Initiatives in Art and Culture in 2004. One of the reasons it was started is because I had developed a series of conferences that had, at their core, a concern for visual culture. What does visual culture tell you? Because there is much to be learned about materiality. What's it made of? How do we get those materials? And that opens the door to discussing sustainability. Then, what's done with those materials? What are the forms? What are the means of expression, whether it's three-dimensional, such as a ring, or two-dimensional, except that it really has a third dimension, however subtle it may be. So, within the category of good, better or best, what differentiates an object from another? Then taking it a step further, what does that object mean in terms of the way we use it, in terms of its place in society, in terms of what it says? Beyond that, how is it linked to the time, or does it presage the future in some way? I'm sure I've left out some foci related to political and social concerns, but it's that wholeness that is inherent in visual culture. That is the focus of what IAC does. We have deep commitment to artistry and materials as well as a commitment to responsible practice. Sharon: Several questions. Were you always interested in all of this, or is it something your professors taught you and you learned as you read? It's not the way I would look at something. I think it's really interesting. How did you start looking at this? Lisa: I was born into a family that was and remains very visually engaged and involved with art, very involved with looking. Well before I had what one might think of as a professor, I had my parents, who in effect included me in their world of looking from moment one. My experience of art, of objects, has been part of my life since the very beginning. For us, a shared experience was very often looking, whether it was going to an exhibition or a trip planned specifically to see certain things. This was very much part of my world, or the world I was lucky enough to be born into. That included the people that were friends of my parents, and that included curators and collectors and people who were very engaged in the world of looking. My mother herself is a very well-recognized either fiber artist or artist who does sculpture using wire to explore grid and void. I say that to avoid the nomenclature wars. I was very lucky to have some extraordinary teachers, but one of the best teachers I had was in high school. We reenacted the Ruskin Whistler trial. I was the attorney for Ruskin, so I had to know all about each one of the witnesses, each one of the people who appeared and testified in the trial, and that made art come alive in a way that was exceptional. Another thing was that during those years, there was something called the myth and image school. It's the idea that an era has emblems that are representative, that are invested with particular meaning. There may be a flip side to that emblem or a parallel that represents its opposite, but this idea, one which is very cross-disciplinary and often ranges through literature and art, was incredibly formative for me. This is the stuff my teachers exposed me to when I was 13, 14. I was reading these books because they had read them in school, in college, and they shared them with us. For me, going to university—I went to Johns Hopkins and did a BA/MA in history—it was, on the one hand, a new chapter and transformative, but on the other hand, it was in some ways a continuation of what I had been doing all the way along. Sharon: Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like—I've watched your conferences for a long time, and it seems that you focus on art and gems and other things. This idea of maintaining purpose and an emphasis on sustainability seems to be in the last few years. Am I incorrect? Do you just put on a conference when you think it's a really important subject and it's coming to the fore? Lisa: Sustainability is a dicey word when it comes to what exactly that means. At root, it is to survive, but in our thinking, sustainability is linked to responsible practice, which can involve how you source materials, how you make an object, what the circumstances and conditions of that making are. We actually have been interested in that since the first project. It was called “Green,” and it was in 2008. The reason that happened was there was an increasing concern with what was then called sustainability, which was often associated with the color green. We had something I definitely want to revive, which is a conference of 20 years of looking at fashion jewels, the zeitgeist of culture, photography, literature, etc. This term sustainability was being used, green was being used, and one of the things I didn't want to do was a superficial one-off. So, we decided that for the 10th year—I think it was the 10th year—of that conference, we would do something called “Green: Sustainability, Significance, and Style.” In that conference we looked at color, of course; we even looked at green diamonds, but we also looked at coral and organic material that's made into jewelry. The issues pertaining to coral were at peak interest at that point, and we did quite a lot in that conference with gold. That was the first time I worked with Toby Pomeroy, with whom I've been fortunate enough to be both friends and colleagues since then. At that point, Toby had done something that was then radical, which was to approach the refiner Hoover & Strong to see if it could be demonstrated that the materials, the scrap, that he came in with was the only material that was in the batch that was refined and that it remained segregated from everything else. That was what you might call an exploration in chain of custody, in the sense that he had a sense of origin of these materials and he wanted to ensure that he could attest to their integrity. Hoover & Strong met the challenge. At that point, Toby was making quite a lot of jewelry, and there was a term that was being used called Eco Loops. Toby has since gone on to do remarkable work with regard to mercury elimination, and he will be involved in the conference, “Maintaining Purpose,” that we are doing. With “Maintaining Purpose”—and actually with the “Green” conference, we had Mike Kowalski, who was then the chair of Tiffany, involved in the conference. There was a great deal of focus on things like land reclamation and after-mining and that sort of thing. Having said that, one thing I'd like to stress is that one of our speakers, who at that point was the head of Bono's RED, got up and said, “I know you're all wondering, ‘What's a red person doing at a green conference?'” I felt as if I had been hit over the head with pipe, because I had never thought about environmental sustainability or integrity as being isolated from social condition and well-being. Now, when you look at the 17 SDG, you'll see so many different issues broken out, but one of the things I thought was, “Gosh, we've got to do red now,” because this is a split I wasn't thinking about or perceiving. Green and red basically led to the creation of a conference. Our initial thinking was to do a conference that would look at precious substances. We did a coral conference; we did a diamond conference, which we were very privileged to do. We had wonderful support from Sally Morrison for that project. Then I woke up and realized we had never done gold, so effectively what happened is that the conference on precious substances became the Gold Conference. The Gold Conference is now entering its 13th year. We broadened gold to include gold and diamonds because we wanted to draw people's attention to stores of value, which these materials are, and also comparative approaches to things like mining, whether it's formalized or otherwise. And also because, of course, metal and stone go together. That's not to say we do not explore and include focus on other stones. We're very proud that Cruzeiro Mines, which is a tourmaline and rubellite mine from Brazil that has exemplary practices and absolutely beautiful stones, is participating in this year's conference. But the way the Gold and Diamond Conference evolved was it came to use jewelry as a lens for a 360-degree approach to the life and the issues associated with the material in question. On the one hand, you have great artistry, like Giovanni Corvaja. We were privileged to have Daniel Brush speak, whose loss I feel keenly. Every year we welcome wonderful jewelers. At the same time, we think about the issues related to extracting material or recycling material and what those words mean. What is recycling? We have repurposed since the dawn of time, so what gives something that halo of recycling? Do we have to think about what we're using? And, of course, jewelry is a created object. What are the environmental ramifications of extracting, creating the jewelry business writ large? Often in our heads, we think about jewelry and we see a craftsperson, a maker. That aspect of things is very dear to our hearts, and we're keenly interested in artisanry. At the same time, you have other aspects to this jewelry industry, large corporations that produce for particular market segments. You have the luxe maison. In some ways, they're all compatriots in a world, in other ways competitors in a world, and yet bound together by a common concern for ensuring that this world we have continues. Without this world, without this air, without this earth, we are nothing. We can't make anything. We have effaced ourselves. I think there is a point of critical mass that's been reached where there is a deep and general concern. One of the things I fear and that I hope I can help with is building community to encourage people to keep going forward despite the fears that we may have about doing something a different way. Last year our conference was “Boldly Building the Future.” How do you boldly build the future? We have many declarations that have been stated about gold, for example. There was a declaration drafted and shepherded through for the gold industry by LBMA and the World Gold Council. They have principles. Principles are not blueprints. How do you get from that vision, the abstract vision, to its implementation? How do you transform? We will have photos posted on the website. Please head to TheJewelryJourney.com to check them out.
What you'll learn in this episode: What jewelry can tell us about the aesthetics and values of a particular era. Why sustainability in the jewelry industry is essential, and why the definition of “sustainable” is much broader than we might think. Why maintaining purpose is the key to making our world and our creative work better. Why the term “ethical jewelry” is less about materials and more about our choices as consumers and makers. How Lisa decides which topics deserve attention at Initiatives in Art and Culture's conferences. About Lisa Koenigsberg Lisa Koenigsberg is President and Founder, Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) and an internationally recognized thought-leader in visual culture. Koenigsberg's work is characterized by commitment to authenticity, artisanry, materials, sustainability, and responsible practice. Over 20 years ago, she established IAC's multi-disciplinary conference series on visual culture and has since been responsible for launching its web-based webinars and other offerings. She has held leadership positions at NYU where she also served on the faculty, at several major museums, and at the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. Koenigsberg's writings have appeared in such books as The Art of Collecting (ed. D. Jensen), Auspicious Vision: Edward Wales Root and American Modernism, Architecture: A Place for Women (eds. E. P. Berkeley and M. McQuaid), The Gilded Edge: The Art of the Frame (ed. E. Wilner), in journals such as Gems and Jewellery (the publication of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain), American Art Journal, Proceedings of the American Antiquarian Society, and Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians, as well as in magazines and in Trendvision's Trendbook. A frequent speaker, she has also organized symposia and special sessions at universities, museums, and professional organizations throughout the US and abroad, including at the State Art Collections of Dresden, NYU, City University Graduate Center, the Smithsonian Institution, the Norton Museum of Art, and the United Nations, and has organized and chaired sessions at the American Association of Museums, the Goldsmiths Company (London), the Society of Architectural Historians, Yale University Art Gallery, the Aspen Institute, and the Jewelry Industry Summit and at JCK. She holds graduate degrees from The Johns Hopkins University and from Yale University from which she received her PhD. She is president of the Board of the Morris–Jumel Museum, a trustee of Glessner House in Chicago, and is a member of the Advisory Board of Ethical Metalsmiths and of the board of the NY Silver Society. Additional Resources: Initiatives in Art and Culture Instagram Initiatives in Art and Culture Facebook Initiatives in Art and Culture Linkedin Initiatives in Art and Culture Linktr.ee Lisa Koenigsberg Linkedin Photos are available on TheJewelryJourney.com Transcript: What is sustainable jewelry? According to Lisa Koenigsberg, it's about much more than the materials used. As founder of Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC), Lisa has organized dozens of conferences to encourage people to explore sustainability, stores of value, visual culture and more, all through the lens of jewelry. She joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about what visual culture is and why it's significant; what it means for makers and jewelry professionals to maintain purpose; and what we can expect from IAC's upcoming conferences. Read the episode transcript here. Sharon: Hello everyone. Welcome to the Jewelry Journey Podcast. This is the first part of a two-part episode. Please make sure you subscribe so you can hear part two as soon as it's released later this week. Today, my guest is Lisa Koenigsberg speaking to us from New York and environs back east. She is the founder of Initiatives in Art and Culture, which is focused on a number of issues such as women in western art. There's also a conference, which I just noticed, on arts and crafts in the art world. She is an internationally recognized authority on material culture. This July, she is chairing an important conference called “Maintaining Purpose” with a focus on how to make something we all love, jewelry. We'll learn more about her jewelry journey today and hear more about the conference. I didn't go into all the details of the conference and her background because it would take too long. Lisa, welcome to the program. Lisa: Thank you. It's so nice to be here. Sharon: Tell us about your jewelry journey. Were you a jeweler? Were you educated as a jeweler? Lisa: No, I am not a jeweler. I am the child of two people who are very object-driven and, of course, a mother with extraordinary taste. But in terms of how you might say I studied jewelry, jewelry was part of what we looked at when thinking about—a term I find not felicitous, but I'll use it for the moment—decorative arts, so fitting into the range of the useful and the beautiful. Silver, for example. Jewelry certainly had a space there, and that was the earliest point for me that was non-life-driven. One of the great blessings that happened to me was that I did my graduate work at Yale. That was when the arts and crafts movement wasn't codified in the same way it is now. We sat around and talked about it in the back room of the American Arts office. There were objects there, and we had the opportunity to hold, see, explore. At the time, I also used to wash silver and jewelry for an extraordinary dealer who wrote a wonderful book, Rosalie Roberian. One of the things that did was give me a sense of weight, dimension, proportion, of engaging closely with materiality. Although the arts and crafts is one dimension, I think that illustrates well one of the things that has been so important for me, which is looking for the opportunity to hold, the opportunity to talk with makers. For example, every year, The Goldsmiths' Company in the U.K. does something called the Goldsmiths' Fair. At the Goldsmiths' Fair, there is one week with 67 or so makers. During that time, you can go and speak with any of the makers, explore the work in your hand, look closely at it. I think the journey of looking is probably one of the most important things. I've been interested in jewelry as a manifestation of the aesthetic of any era for a very long time as well. My background and training are cross-disciplinary. I'm an American studies person. For me, one of the things I always look for is what we are seeing as characteristic of an age, for example. I see jewelry as very much a part of the tangible expressions of an era. For example, if you're talking about a brooch, you can be working on a sculpture for the body, similarly with neckwear. It's one of the most intriguing forms of expression there is. Making jewelry, the impulse to craft out of whatever the culture sees as precious material, is one of the innate impulses we have, along with the urge to adorn. If you step back and think about it, jewelry is intertwined with so many events of state, events of faith, events of heart. The Pope, for example, wears the Fisherman's Ring, and at the passing of each Pope, that ring is shattered; a new ring is made. We're all currently fixated on the crown jewels as Charles' coronation comes up. All of that is actually jewelry. It's jewelry indicative of state, of lineage, obviously of aesthetics. The band that many of us wear on one left or right ring finger, as simple or as elaborate as it may be, that is jewelry. It's a signifier. It's also invested with tremendous emotion. Jewelry plays an enormously powerful role in culture. It's another kind of historical document. So, if we look at jewelry, we can learn things. For example, you can explore the kinds of ornament it was thought only men wore, but by actually going back and looking, as it was done in the exhibition “Golden Kingdoms,” you can see that women also wore certain kinds of major ceremonial ornament. You can learn from the inscriptions. You can learn about stylistic transmission from the aesthetics. One of the things we don't think about so much is what we leave behind. When we go and look at how we have explored previous cultures, past cultures, one of the things we see is that the documents are often what have been termed luxury arts. They are art that are made of objects that are deemed precious within a culture. They demonstrate a certain egis over resources and talent, but they also serve as documents of that culture. They tell us things about religion, about aesthetics, about faith, about ritual. We need to be thinking about that with regard to jewelry in our own age as well. What are we leaving behind? Sharon: You cover so many things in Initiatives in Art and Culture. You talk about gems and sustainability and art. It's so many things. How did you start this, and what is the conference about? Lisa: I founded Initiatives in Art and Culture in 2004. One of the reasons it was started is because I had developed a series of conferences that had, at their core, a concern for visual culture. What does visual culture tell you? Because there is much to be learned about materiality. What's it made of? How do we get those materials? And that opens the door to discussing sustainability. Then, what's done with those materials? What are the forms? What are the means of expression, whether it's three-dimensional, such as a ring, or two-dimensional, except that it really has a third dimension, however subtle it may be. So, within the category of good, better or best, what differentiates an object from another? Then taking it a step further, what does that object mean in terms of the way we use it, in terms of its place in society, in terms of what it says? Beyond that, how is it linked to the time, or does it presage the future in some way? I'm sure I've left out some foci related to political and social concerns, but it's that wholeness that is inherent in visual culture. That is the focus of what IAC does. We have deep commitment to artistry and materials as well as a commitment to responsible practice. Sharon: Several questions. Were you always interested in all of this, or is it something your professors taught you and you learned as you read? It's not the way I would look at something. I think it's really interesting. How did you start looking at this? Lisa: I was born into a family that was and remains very visually engaged and involved with art, very involved with looking. Well before I had what one might think of as a professor, I had my parents, who in effect included me in their world of looking from moment one. My experience of art, of objects, has been part of my life since the very beginning. For us, a shared experience was very often looking, whether it was going to an exhibition or a trip planned specifically to see certain things. This was very much part of my world, or the world I was lucky enough to be born into. That included the people that were friends of my parents, and that included curators and collectors and people who were very engaged in the world of looking. My mother herself is a very well-recognized either fiber artist or artist who does sculpture using wire to explore grid and void. I say that to avoid the nomenclature wars. I was very lucky to have some extraordinary teachers, but one of the best teachers I had was in high school. We reenacted the Ruskin Whistler trial. I was the attorney for Ruskin, so I had to know all about each one of the witnesses, each one of the people who appeared and testified in the trial, and that made art come alive in a way that was exceptional. Another thing was that during those years, there was something called the myth and image school. It's the idea that an era has emblems that are representative, that are invested with particular meaning. There may be a flip side to that emblem or a parallel that represents its opposite, but this idea, one which is very cross-disciplinary and often ranges through literature and art, was incredibly formative for me. This is the stuff my teachers exposed me to when I was 13, 14. I was reading these books because they had read them in school, in college, and they shared them with us. For me, going to university—I went to Johns Hopkins and did a BA/MA in history—it was, on the one hand, a new chapter and transformative, but on the other hand, it was in some ways a continuation of what I had been doing all the way along. Sharon: Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like—I've watched your conferences for a long time, and it seems that you focus on art and gems and other things. This idea of maintaining purpose and an emphasis on sustainability seems to be in the last few years. Am I incorrect? Do you just put on a conference when you think it's a really important subject and it's coming to the fore? Lisa: Sustainability is a dicey word when it comes to what exactly that means. At root, it is to survive, but in our thinking, sustainability is linked to responsible practice, which can involve how you source materials, how you make an object, what the circumstances and conditions of that making are. We actually have been interested in that since the first project. It was called “Green,” and it was in 2008. The reason that happened was there was an increasing concern with what was then called sustainability, which was often associated with the color green. We had something I definitely want to revive, which is a conference of 20 years of looking at fashion jewels, the zeitgeist of culture, photography, literature, etc. This term sustainability was being used, green was being used, and one of the things I didn't want to do was a superficial one-off. So, we decided that for the 10th year—I think it was the 10th year—of that conference, we would do something called “Green: Sustainability, Significance, and Style.” In that conference we looked at color, of course; we even looked at green diamonds, but we also looked at coral and organic material that's made into jewelry. The issues pertaining to coral were at peak interest at that point, and we did quite a lot in that conference with gold. That was the first time I worked with Toby Pomeroy, with whom I've been fortunate enough to be both friends and colleagues since then. At that point, Toby had done something that was then radical, which was to approach the refiner Hoover & Strong to see if it could be demonstrated that the materials, the scrap, that he came in with was the only material that was in the batch that was refined and that it remained segregated from everything else. That was what you might call an exploration in chain of custody, in the sense that he had a sense of origin of these materials and he wanted to ensure that he could attest to their integrity. Hoover & Strong met the challenge. At that point, Toby was making quite a lot of jewelry, and there was a term that was being used called Eco Loops. Toby has since gone on to do remarkable work with regard to mercury elimination, and he will be involved in the conference, “Maintaining Purpose,” that we are doing. With “Maintaining Purpose”—and actually with the “Green” conference, we had Mike Kowalski, who was then the chair of Tiffany, involved in the conference. There was a great deal of focus on things like land reclamation and after-mining and that sort of thing. Having said that, one thing I'd like to stress is that one of our speakers, who at that point was the head of Bono's RED, got up and said, “I know you're all wondering, ‘What's a red person doing at a green conference?'” I felt as if I had been hit over the head with pipe, because I had never thought about environmental sustainability or integrity as being isolated from social condition and well-being. Now, when you look at the 17 SDG, you'll see so many different issues broken out, but one of the things I thought was, “Gosh, we've got to do red now,” because this is a split I wasn't thinking about or perceiving. Green and red basically led to the creation of a conference. Our initial thinking was to do a conference that would look at precious substances. We did a coral conference; we did a diamond conference, which we were very privileged to do. We had wonderful support from Sally Morrison for that project. Then I woke up and realized we had never done gold, so effectively what happened is that the conference on precious substances became the Gold Conference. The Gold Conference is now entering its 13th year. We broadened gold to include gold and diamonds because we wanted to draw people's attention to stores of value, which these materials are, and also comparative approaches to things like mining, whether it's formalized or otherwise. And also because, of course, metal and stone go together. That's not to say we do not explore and include focus on other stones. We're very proud that Cruzeiro Mines, which is a tourmaline and rubellite mine from Brazil that has exemplary practices and absolutely beautiful stones, is participating in this year's conference. But the way the Gold and Diamond Conference evolved was it came to use jewelry as a lens for a 360-degree approach to the life and the issues associated with the material in question. On the one hand, you have great artistry, like Giovanni Corvaja. We were privileged to have Daniel Brush speak, whose loss I feel keenly. Every year we welcome wonderful jewelers. At the same time, we think about the issues related to extracting material or recycling material and what those words mean. What is recycling? We have repurposed since the dawn of time, so what gives something that halo of recycling? Do we have to think about what we're using? And, of course, jewelry is a created object. What are the environmental ramifications of extracting, creating the jewelry business writ large? Often in our heads, we think about jewelry and we see a craftsperson, a maker. That aspect of things is very dear to our hearts, and we're keenly interested in artisanry. At the same time, you have other aspects to this jewelry industry, large corporations that produce for particular market segments. You have the luxe maison. In some ways, they're all compatriots in a world, in other ways competitors in a world, and yet bound together by a common concern for ensuring that this world we have continues. Without this world, without this air, without this earth, we are nothing. We can't make anything. We have effaced ourselves. I think there is a point of critical mass that's been reached where there is a deep and general concern. One of the things I fear and that I hope I can help with is building community to encourage people to keep going forward despite the fears that we may have about doing something a different way. Last year our conference was “Boldly Building the Future.” How do you boldly build the future? We have many declarations that have been stated about gold, for example. There was a declaration drafted and shepherded through for the gold industry by LBMA and the World Gold Council. They have principles. Principles are not blueprints. How do you get from that vision, the abstract vision, to its implementation? How do you transform? We will have photos posted on the website. Please head to TheJewelryJourney.com to check them out.
What was hot at the Tucson gem shows, diamond supplier news, and Chat GPT. Any views expressed in this podcast do not reflect the opinion of JCK, its management, or its advertisers.
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Malyia McNaughton, founder of Made by Malyia. The self-taught jewelry designer and Black in Jewelry Coalition board member is proof that trusting your gut can be the key to creative success. When Malyia couldn't find the jewelry she wanted, she designed her own—and wore it. Demand for her designs inspired her to launch her brand and has made her a rising star whose looks have been worn by Lizzo and other celebrities.Sponsored by De Beers: diamondeducation.debeers.comShow Notes1:53 From body chain to brand launch5:09 Expanding organically8:04 Turning obstacles into opportunities10:53 Finding creative inspiration13:57 High-profile partnerships17:58 In the spotlight on SNL20:51 The Black in Jewelry Coalition: making a difference23:52 Tips for aspiring designersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com; @jckmagazine; madebymalyia.com; diamondeducation.debeers.com [Use promo code JCKPRO_15 at checkout for 15% off workshops.]Show RecapFrom body chain to brand launchVictoria introduces Brooklyn-based designer Malyia McNaughton, founder of Made by Malyia, and asks how she started creating jewelry. The daughter of Jamaican immigrants was born in the Bronx, raised in Florida, and attended Florida State University, where she studied fashion merchandising and product development. After graduating, she moved back to New York to pursue a career in fashion, starting in sales and product development for Nicole Miller and eventually designing for another fashion brand.In 2014, Malyia had tickets to a music festival in Philadelphia. She wanted to make a statement by wearing a body chain but couldn't find the right piece. Undeterred, she sourced materials and designed her own. Little did she dream she was making her first item of jewelry. “I got stopped by so many people asking me where I'd gotten it,” Malyia recalls. “After the fifth or sixth person, my friends said, ‘You might be onto something.' We went to lunch, and they helped me come up with the name Made by Malyia.' It was one of those Oprah aha moments.”Expanding organicallyAfter months of trial and error, Malyia developed a body chain she felt was ready to put on Etsy. To her delight, orders poured in. Still, she viewed Made by Malyia as a creative outlet, not a business. Gradually she added products based on buyers' feedback. When a client asked if she could make a temporary nose ring, Malyia branched into nonpermanent nose and body jewelry. Next someone asked for a ring. “It started to expand very organically,” she says. Eventually, growing demand persuaded her to build a collection and a website.“Etsy was a great launching pad,” she says. “I credit my customers [there] for amplifying my voice and bringing me to market.” Though she has moved away from the platform, she hopes to do another Etsy-specific collection.Turning obstacles into opportunitiesRob asks what challenges Malyia faced as a newcomer to the industry. She points out that the jewelry business is famously generational. While those family bonds are admirable and she hopes to build her own legacy, they have a downside: They create a major entry barrier for self-taught designers of color and anyone else who lacks personal connections.Malyia turned the disadvantage into an advantage. As a newcomer, she felt less pressure to put out product than established insiders might. This freed her up to focus intensely on design. She is very intentional in the projects she takes on, releasing small, effective capsule collections that will sell through.Finding creative inspirationMalyia has said her work celebrates the intersection of art, nature, and culture. Victoria wonders how this translates into her creative process. The designer starts by placing raw materials in her workspace and spending a week surrounded by them. She also immerses herself in nature, drawing particular inspiration from the movement of water. Sometimes weeks go by before an idea strikes her—then ideas come fast and furious, and she finds herself making 100 sketches in a row. Her rough sketches go up on the wall, where she can study and tweak them. Next she engineers her designs to ensure they're structurally sound before sending them to her CAD designer to see what they look like in 3D. “It's a pretty unique process, but I've learned to embrace it,” she says.On her inspiration board, Malyia keeps an old magazine article about Monique Péan that she clipped when Made by Malyia was taking root. “She really is a trailblazer,” says Malyia. Other role models include Sheryl Jones, “a phenomenal designer” and personal mentor, as well as Elsa Peretti. She feels a kinship with the late Peretti because, like Malyia, the designer saw herself as an artist.High-profile partnershipsVictoria points out that Malyia has done quite a few well-publicized collaborations despite being relatively new to the industry and asks how these came about.In 2021 the Natural Diamond Council launched an emerging designer initiative. Eager to explore the fine jewelry space, Malyia applied. She not only got accepted, she impressed the council enough with her sketches that they commissioned her to design an 11-piece collection as part of a global ad campaign featuring actor Ana de Armas. “I was ecstatic because, if I do say so myself, it was a hit,” says Malyia.That success led to other opportunities, including partnering with nationwide chain Banter by Piercing Pagoda and its creative director, Grammy-nominated rapper, songwriter, and artist Tierra Whack. “I'm a huge fan,” says Malyia. Being entrusted to execute Whack's creative vision was an honor. So was revisiting her roots with a trip to a Banter store in the Bronx. “I brought my nieces, my nephews, my sister,” Malyia recalls. “It was such an amazing experience to walk into the mall and to see…pieces that I was responsible for designing. If I've had an Oscar moment, that was it.”In the SNL spotlightMalyia enjoyed another star moment recently when Lizzo wore her earrings on Saturday Night Live. Rob asks for the backstory. A stylist contacted Malyia and asked to borrow a pair of her Wave Hoop earrings with channel-set baguettes but refused to name the event or the celebrity she was dressing until the day the episode taped. “I was in disbelief when it came on the screen,” says Malyia. “To have one of the biggest stars of our time wear my earrings on SNL, I don't know if I can top that.”Celebrity placement is influential, especially for a smaller brand like Malyia's, she says, because it piques the interest of the public and the media. Reposting the coverage brings people to her site, which translates into sales and visibility.BIJC: making a differenceIn the wake of George Floyd's murder during the 2020 pandemic, Malyia was working from home when fellow Black jewelry professional Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez reached out with a timely question: Would Malyia join a conversation about how the industry could help move the Black community forward? “I immediately said yes,” she remembers. Soon, she, Jenkins-Pérez, and others who shared their concerns were brainstorming strategies. They formalized their efforts by founding the Black in Jewelry Coalition (BIJC) and assembling a nine-member board that represents all aspects of the business. “We've been on calls once a week for about two hours for the last two years,” says Malyia. “It's been phenomenal work.” BIJC has collaborated with industry organizations on initiatives to help advance Black professionals in gems and jewelry, partnering with New York City Jewelry Week on an event last year. Plans are also in the works to have a BIJC presence at the JCK show in June.Tips for aspiring designersFor younger creatives hoping to follow in her footsteps, Malyia offers these words of wisdom: Trust your instincts. She credits her intuition with guiding her from the initial decision to make and market a body chain to her current thriving career. “I just trusted that what I was creating was worth sharing. Don't wait to have it all figured out. Go for it. You never know where you can end up.”
Join JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates for a roundup of buzzworthy industry updates. Victoria reports on the recent Vicenzaoro fair, where the halls were crowded, the mood upbeat, and the looks big and bold. She updates listeners on a rare timepiece collection from the archives of Jaegar-LeCoultre. It's the first significant effort by a Swiss watchmaker to sell vintage pieces and may herald a burgeoning trend. Rob analyzes what Israeli equipment maker Sarine's purchase of the family-owned lab GCAL means for the future of diamond grading—and AI's growing role in it. Finally, the two discuss the Federal Trade Commission's proposed ban on noncompete clauses.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes2:22 A lively January Vicenzaoro fair 7:21 Jaegar-LeCoultre unveils first vintage watch collection12:22 What Sarine's purchase of GCAL means for the future of diamond grading18:09 The FTC's move to ban non-compete clausesEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapViva VicenzaoroJust back from Italy's January Vicenzaoro goldsmith and jewelry fair, Victoria says she was delighted to find the show packed and the mood optimistic. She had expected inflation, the war in Ukraine, and fear of recession to trigger cautiousness and a comedown from the boom the industry has enjoyed since the pandemic started. However, this was the best-attended Vicenzaoro ever in terms of both exhibitors and attendees. Victoria spent most of her time in the crowded hall where Roberto Coin, Damiani, FOPE, and other luxury brands that export to the U.S. were exhibiting. Also bustling was the adjacent T.Gold show, featuring jewelry machinery and technology for everything from engraving to laser welding.Victoria is still amassing information on the show's top sellers, but one trend is certain: Big, bold pieces are replacing the small, delicate ones favored during quarantine. Understated jewelry suited people well when they were working from home, she says, but now subtle looks (such as stacking multiple delicate bracelets on the wrist) are making way for powerful statement pieces—especially cuffs and collar necklaces.Jaegar-LeCoultre Unveils Vintage CollectionVictoria's recent European trip included a visit to Geneva to learn about Jaegar-LeCoultre's first-ever vintage watch collection. She explains that the Swiss company is known as the watchmaker's watchmaker. The brand has made all of its timepieces in its own workshops in the Vallée de Joux since its foundation in 1833, and Jaegar-LeCoultre calibers and movements have powered many other brands' watches over the years. Now, Jaegar-LeCoultre has mined its own rich history to create The Collectibles, 17 models from its archives produced between 1925 and 1974. Each reflects a watchmaking innovation from the 20th century. Twelve of these models were sourced from auction houses and vintage dealers and are available for purchase. Included are the Reverso, the company's best-known model, and several interesting watches from the 1950s and 1960s, according to Victoria. The Collectibles is an evolving collection, so the models will remain the same, but different editions may be introduced along with new capsules, she says.This is the first time Victoria has seen a Swiss watchmaker invest such effort into selling vintage pieces rather than new models. She likens it to Rolex's Certified Pre-Owned program and points out the advantage of having such treasures returned to the workshops where they were created to be finetuned with the very tools and components that were used to build them. How will other brands respond? Victoria is eager to find out. She predicts that we're on the brink of a new era of modern-day Swiss watchmakers taking much more care with vintage pieces that have potential to be resold.Sarine Acquires GCALIn other news, Rob reports that Israeli equipment manufacturer Sarine bought the family-owned diamond-grading lab Gem & Certification Assurance Lab (GCAL). Though GCAL is relatively small, it is widely respected for giving tough grades based on GIA standards and offering a certificate guaranteeing those grades.Rob finds the acquisition intriguing, given that Sarine uses machines which rely on artificial intelligence (AI) to grade diamonds. This allows them to grade gemstones in the factory rather than sending them to a lab, as Rob reported last year in JCK. The fact that Sarine is using a well-established lab to roll out its AI approach and promising to honor GCAL's grading guarantee shows how much confidence they have in the technology, he says. Clearly, Sarine believes its technology can match GCAL's standards. Rob and Victoria say the acquisition will help the industry get used to the concept of AI grading, a method many labs are exploring. How will AI play out in the industry? That's anyone's guess, but Victoria predicts it will become increasingly important throughout the supply chain.Rob also notes that International Gemological Institute (IGI), a well-known and profitable appraisal lab focused on lab-grown diamonds, has been put up for sale by owners Fosun Group. He and Victoria will be interested to see who purchases it.The FTC Moves to End Non-Compete ClausesVictoria mentions a recently proposed rule by The Federal Trade Commission to ban employers from issuing non-compete clauses. Rob explains that many workers miss clauses hidden in the fine print of employment contracts and find themselves hamstrung when they lose or quit a job and want to find new employment in their chosen field. For CEOs at high-profile companies, non-competes might make sense, he says, but for the average person, they're problematic—and widespread: Data suggests that one in five American workers is subject to a non-compete clause.Despite objections from business groups and possible court challenges, the FTC rule could be enacted before year end, phasing out existing non-compete clauses and prohibiting new ones. If so, Rob envisions sweeping changes in the economy.
What you'll learn in this episode: How the jewelry industry has changed over the last 50 years How the Women's Jewelry Association helped women jewelry professionals get the recognition they deserved What it was like to work with Elizabeth Taylor and Hilary Clinton to design iconic jewels for them Linda's advice for young jewelry designers About Linda Orlick Linda Orlick is a longtime public relations expert in the jewelry industry as well as an accomplished business executive with experience branding high-end products, people and companies. She is co-founder of the influential Women's Jewelry Association, a volunteer organization founded in 1984 that began with 10 women in an apartment in Manhattan and blossomed to become a formidable entity and powerful voice for women in the jewelry industry worldwide. Linda served as its President for a four- year term. Additional Resources: Instagram LinkedIn Photos available on ThejewelryJourney.com Transcript: Linda Orlick entered the jewelry industry when gold was $35 an ounce and jewelry designers were unknowns who worked behind the scenes. Due in no small part to Linda's passion for the industry and her work to brand and promote emerging designers, retailers and shows, jewelry is now a respected part of the American fashion scene. She joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about the history of the Women's Jewelry Association; why it's so hard for people to leave the jewelry industry once they enter it; and how she helped facilitate the design of the 4.25 carat canary yellow diamond ring Hilary Clinton wore to the 1993 inauguration. Read the episode transcript here. Sharon: Hello, everyone. Welcome to the Jewelry Journey Podcast. This is the first part of a two-part episode. Please make sure you subscribe so you can hear part two as soon as it's released later this week. My guest is Linda Orlick. Linda has spent her whole career in jewelry. She has been very successful as a retailer and a consultant to retailers. She's one of the cofounders of the Women's Jewelry Association, and she helped build it into a powerhouse. I'm sure many of you are members of the Women's Jewelry Association. Today, we will learn a lot more about her jewelry journey. There's a lot to say. Linda, welcome to the program. Linda: It's so good to be here. Thank you, Sharon. Sharon: Tell us about your jewelry journey. Linda: Well, I hope we have a lot of time. In 1974, when gold was $35 an ounce— Sharon: Wow! Linda: I guess, wow. My family and a few friends spent the summer in the Catskills. At that time, there were three ladies who had a company and were selling a collection of gold jewelry to other women like a pyramid scheme. It was a combination of chains and necklaces and earrings. I said to a friend of mine, “We should do this.” So, we went ahead and invested $400 each, and we got our first collection. We thought we would be brave enough—we lived in Riverdale in the Bronx—to take a trip into the city and go into office buildings in the garment center, introduce ourselves to the receptionist, go into the bathroom and set up wares. There you have it: we were selling our jewelry. Women used to come in and give us hundreds of dollars in deposits, and we would come back and deliver pieces to them. The two of us looked at each other and said, “I think this is fun. This is good. Better than doing it out of our home,” because we both had small children. That's how it all started. Again, gold was $35 an ounce. Can you imagine that was 48 years ago? My next introduction was to a silver designer by the name of Minas. He was from Greece, and he had a beautiful collection of 18-carat pieces. In fact, I'm wearing two of his pieces. I fell in love with his collection. I had never sold to a retailer before. I didn't know how to go about it. I walked into Bloomingdale's one day with my little jewelry roll, and I said, “Knock, knock; I'm Linda and I'd like to introduce myself.” The buyer—her name was Susan; I can't remember her last name—said, “Do you have an appointment?” I said, “Oh, did I need one?” Before I knew it, I was showing her the collection. She fell in love with it also, and she bought a nice selection of it. Now, mind you, a ring like this was $22. Again, it was 18-karat gold and silver. Everything was very affordable, so they sold out immediately. I kept the money from the order, and then I started to work full time for Minas, and I kept the relationship with Bloomingdale's going. Along the way, gold went from $35 an ounce to $800 an ounce. It was at the same time that Minas decided he was going to turn his business into all 18-karat gold. He felt that staying in the United States, it would be difficult for him to continue to sell his collection in all gold, so he decided to go back to his homeland in Greece and continue with his collection. By chance, I was at the Sheraton Center when the JA had their shows there, and I got a part-time position with Marsha Breslow, who was a wonderful colorist. She used to do lapis and 18-karat bead jewelry for Cartier and had her special collection for them. She used to take semi-precious beads and make the most extraordinary necklaces and earrings. It caught the attention of Vera Wang, who was then an assistant at Vogue Magazine. Vera kept coming up to the office and working with us on different collections. Vera was working on a collection for Calvin Klein for one of his original runway shows. She asked Marsha to create a collection that would go on his runway. Excitingly enough, it also made the cover two seasons in a row of Fashion Times Magazine. For a jewelry designer to be on the cover of Fashions Times was unheard of. Along the way, I called Women's Wear Daily, who never featured fine jewelry. I believe it was Agnes Carmack, who was then an assistant, who answered, and I said, “I've got a gorgeous collection of earrings,” and she said, “O.K., bring it over.” We went up on the rooftop. I had a friend who was a model. This wonderful photographer they had, Tony Palmieri, photographed about six different earrings on her, and they landed on the front page of Women's Wear Daily. It was the first ever. I started to think to myself, “If Seventh Avenue can promote by name, why shouldn't the jewelry industry?” I went back to Bloomingdale's and told them about the Marsha Breslow collection. After being in Vogue Magazine and with Vera Wang putting it on Calvin Klein, people began to really take notice of the designers and names. We were in Bloomingdale's, which was a Federated Store. The parent company was associated with Associated Merchandising Corporation. I became friendly with the CEO of AMC, Lee Abraham, and he called me one day and said, “Linda, I want something different for Bloomingdale's that no other store has.” I said, “O.K., give me a few days to think about it.” I called him back and said, “Lee, I want to have the first design boutique ever in a department store, and I want it to be in Bloomingdale's, in the 59th Street store.” He said, “You got it. The buyer Marty Newman, whom everybody loves so dearly, and the DM will be visiting you in the next week.” Sharon: The DM is what? I'm sorry. Linda: The department manager. “It's our secret, but they are going to listen to your story about a designer boutique and it's going to happen.” Sure enough, a week later, I get a phone call from Marty Newman, who went on to be one of my dearest friends. He said, “I'm not sure what I have here, but I want you to create a collection. We can give you six feet of showcase space.” If you walk into Bloomingdale's and see the Louis Vuitton store to the right, there's always that big flower. Exactly where that beautiful flower is was the showcase that he wanted us to work with. So, we put in a collection. We were responsible for designing the showcase and hiring our own salespeople. They gave us a sales goal. We quadrupled that. Lee and the buyer were so impressed, he said to me, “Now you can go to the rest of the Federated stores,” which included Woodward & Lothrop. I created the first designer boutique. What can I say? The rest is history. Marsha Breslow went into these stores and the word “jewelry designer” came along with it. It was a slow process because jewelry designers were still not recognized. It was a real uphill battle. In 1981, I was invited by the Manufacturing Jewelry and Silversmiths of America, MJSA, and I eventually met the man who became my former husband, Henry Dunay. I was invited to do direct mail advertising and public relations for the first group of American jewelry designers that were invited to the Baselworld Fair. Basel didn't want any Americans to come to it. They fought and said, “Americans, what do they know about jewelry design? They design in 14-karat gold. They have no sense of design.” So, they stuck us in a little corner behind the cafeteria where nobody could see them. We did a mailing to hundreds and hundreds of retailers across the world. Little by little, when you have a designer like Henry Dunay or Jose Hess, names who were emerging designers, and they're not being sold by weight, which is what they did early on. You sold your jewelry by weight. People started to recognize it. They became a real force in Basel. They were invited back every year, and every year the collections grew more and more incredible. The American jewelry designers outdid all the other countries as far as designing metals and working in 18-karat and precious and semiprecious stones. I went to the Basel Fair for 21 years and became very friendly with the then-head of the fair. Eventually, the Basel Fair hired me to promote the fair to American retailers to try and get more American retailers to come to Basel. That was when there were so many competitions in New York. There was the emergence of JCK, the JA show, which launched the Couture Show, the JCK Show, which launched Luxury. They converged on Las Vegas and took over the ability for retailers to come to one place and see extraordinary designs. Then, of course, you had the European retailers wanting to come, too. It gave Basel a real run for its money. I had done public relations for the JA Show for many years, and I helped create a lot of exciting highlights for the Couture Show. I had a very close relationship with Robb Report magazine. Sharon: Which magazine? Linda: Robb Report magazine. Sharon: Robb Report, O.K., yes. Linda: Robb Report is very high-end luxury jewelry. I created a Robb Report event at the Couture Show after the major entertainment, which was always sponsored by Vogue Magazine. It had over-the-top musicians performing, and it was a luxury fair the couture jewelers could go to with over-the-top desserts and interesting things. That grew to be very big and kept the tour very special until Couture and JA decided to make its move to Vegas. When that program was over, I became the public relations and marketing person for the JCK Show. I was also watching the Luxury Show within the JCK Show. We came up with a lot of programs and conferences that would create wider visibility for the show. In fact, because of my 21 years in Basel and my relationships not just with jewelry designers, but with the watch companies, I was able to create the first watch luxury show. I introduced the concept to my colleagues at JCK and I brought my dear friend, Steven Kaiser, on board to oversee the show. The Luxury by JCK Watch Show is still in existence today and is the first and only luxury watch show in the U.S. So, that was very exciting. The rest, as they say, is history. I watched the industry go from $35 an ounce and deciding how much I should pay for this based on a scale, to a showcase with the most beautiful designs ever created in the world. I have to give a lot of credit to my former husband, Henry Dunay, because in my opinion he was—and still is—one of the greatest jewelry designers in the industry. He set the tone for finishes on jewelry with his love for pearls, his love for precious and semiprecious stones, his ability to search out stones and create a design around it. For instance, my dear friend who worked at the Diamond Information Center, called me one day and said, “I have a 4.25 canary yellow diamond that was found in a mine in Arkansas by a local jeweler. If Henry could create a ring for Hillary Clinton to wear at the inauguration, she will wear it.” Henry was leaving for Europe the next day, and I said, “You're not going. To design a ring for Hillary Clinton and have her wear it at the inauguration, that comes first. Please put off the jewelry trip for another few days.” Sure enough, he created the most beautiful cinnabar ring. It was from the argosy of Arkansas. You saw pieces of platinum and different textures in the 18-karat gold that depicted the topography of Arkansas, with the 4.25 diamond set inside. It was a cushion shape. It was never cut. It came out of the ground just the way you see it in the ring. It was extraordinary. Sadly, the jeweler wanted the diamond back rather than having the whole ring donated to the Smithsonian as it should have been, so Henry had to take the ring apart. He said, “One day, I'll have a stone made that looks exactly like it and I'll reset it.” I don't think that ever happened, but people got to see it. It went on view in the Museum of Natural History. It became part of one of the exhibits at the Museum of Natural History. It was an extraordinary ring. I do have pictures of it to share with everybody. Sharon: We'll have those on the website. Linda: It's an exciting journey. Back in the early 80s, I made lots of good women friends in the industry. I think it was in 1982. There was a blustery, snowy night, and we were all at the JA show. It was at the Hilton in the Sheraton Center. We were invited by two representatives from New England to a meeting to tell us about the women's group they put together, New England Women in Jewelry. We thought it had a lot of merit, and my friends and colleagues and I kept going back and forth and back and forth. Do we need this organization? What do you think? We finally decided we would call our friend, Ronny Lavin, and 10 women we were close with to talk about it. There was Nancy Pier Sindt, who was an editor with National Jeweler; a designer, Joan Benjamin; Jo Ann Paganetti, who was a professor at FIT; Marian Ruby, who was the jewelry buyer at Finley at the time. I hope I'm not leaving anybody's name out. We said, “O.K., I think we should do this. Let's become mentors. Let's create a scholarship program. Let's create a platform for women to share their ideas and grow their businesses.” We voted on the name Women's Jewelry Association. Nothing could have prepared us for what was coming next. I sent you our original newsletter. We came on like such a force that we expanded our bylaws to include the rest of the country. The New England group became our first general chapter, and the rest is history. Most importantly, of course, there was somebody we all loved and respected, Gerry Friedman, who was the editor in chief of National Jeweler Magazine, and we were going to ask Gerry to be our first president. She was like, “Of course.” We had several meetings where we put together a group of programs of other women to talk about what's going on in the industry, what suppliers and vendors to use, the world of design and all different topics. Gerry always had a group to her home for dinner, and one day we were talking about what's going to make us stand out. There are lots of men's groups or enough men's groups, and they had dinners. All of a sudden, it came to me: We had to create the first awards in the jewelry industry for women, by women. We all agreed we would do this. Through Gerry's connections at the Lotos Club, we created the first Awards for Excellence dinner. It was at the Lotos Club, and it was a total sellout. We had to move it to the Harmonie Club, which was a little bit larger in space, again through Gerry's connections. Again, it was a sellout. We honored Helene Fortunoff and Bess Ravella. We honored Angela Cummings for best designer, Marian Ruby for best retailer. We had Nancy Pier Sindt for best editor. The list goes on and on. It became such a sense of pride for all of us, to recognize each other for our accomplishments in the industry. The award dinner kept growing and growing. We moved to Tavern on the Green, and again, it was a total sellout. We kept growing. For the last two years, it's been at Chelsea Piers. There are over 700 women and men that attend. The awards have literally become the ticket in the industry. It's a current event. It's a great place to network. It's a great place to catch up with your friends and your vendors in the industry, and it's a beautiful, beautiful evening. I am proud to say that from those original 10 women in Ronny Lavin's apartment, there are now 20 chapters all over the world with, I believe, a membership of 17,000 women and men worldwide. The Women's Jewelry Association is a force to be reckoned with, and now they have programs in all different regions. They have ongoing programs. When I look back on my career, the Women's Jewelry Association stands out as one of my greatest highlights. Along the way I've gotten beautiful emails from members who said I actually changed the course of their lives by creating the Women's Jewelry Association. I take those comments very seriously and to heart, because I was always trying to do something different and trying to make room for people to grow. If somebody got laid off from a job, I was the first person they would come to. I would always help them find a position or help them with what they're going through and perhaps help them look at a different career within the industry. When I started in the industry, there were barely any women. One of the women that stands out to me is Helene Fortunoff, because she was one of the very first women to ever have retail experience. She took all of her children to work with her every day. Five of her children worked with her every single day. Now not only are her children in the business, but Esther and Ruth have carried on their mother's incredible journey in the jewelry business. It's remarkable to see how, from the beginning to where we are now, the jewelry business has become one of the major industries in the world. Diamonds and precious and semi-precious stones, pearls, pearls, pearls—because I love pearls—are now the mainstay of what people look for when they're going shopping for birthdays, anniversaries, holidays, or just when a woman wants to buy her own jewelry. Sharon: We will have photos posted on the website. Please head to TheJewelryJourney.com to check them out.
In this episode, I share my interview with Mark Smelzer, the former publisher of JCK and the current Chief Content Executive at Jewelers Mutual Group. Mark started his career in magazine ad sales in Los Angeles when he became the publisher of a city magazine called Buzz. After that, he moved to Variety, the entertainment trade publication, but a corporate shake-up there propelled him to become the publisher of JCK magazine. At the time, 18 years ago, he knew very little about the jewelry industry, but he grew to love it and has seen it go through countless changes. In 2021, he shifted to an exciting new role at Jeweler's Mutual, and he conceived of the event Conversations in Park City, which recently took place in mid-October. I'm really excited to have Mark on the podcast today to chat about his time in the industry as well as his experience of the unique retreat in Utah. In this episode, we'll be covering: What's it like to organize and execute on a major event for the jewelry industry? Why are leadership development and networking events so important for this industry? What are some of the most exciting and invigorating things happening in the industry today? …and more! Sparkle Award: Diamonds Do Good - https://www.nationaljeweler.com/articles/11405-the-new-diamonds-do-good-bracelet-has-launched News Articles: Cookies Are Ruining Your Holiday Sales. Here's Why Session-Based Personalization is the Best Alternative - https://www.mytotalretail.com/article/cookies-are-ruining-your-holiday-sales-heres-why-session-based-personalization-is-the-best-alternative/ 25% of Diamond Jewelry Sales in 2021 Were Made Online - https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/diamond-jewelry-sales-2021-online/ TikTok Launches ‘TikTok Academy' Marketing Education Platform - https://www.socialmediatoday.com/news/tiktok-launches-tiktok-academy-marketing-education-platform/635046/ Connect with Mark on Linkedin: https://www.linkedin.com/in/marksmelzer/ Transcript: https://joyjoya.com/mark-smelzer-community-jewelry-industry
In this episode of the Paul Zimnisky Diamond Analytics Podcast, good friend of the show Rob Bates returns for the fourth time. The conversation begins with Paul reviewing Rob's diamond industry predictions from 15 years ago. Next, the two speculate on what the next 15 years could bring. Then, Paul and Rob discuss the latest impact that U.S. sanctions are having on the flow of Russian diamonds. The conversation then moves to the “explosion” of lab-diamond production capacity in India and what it means for the industry. The two then discuss De Beer's Lightbox lab-diamond jewelry strategy and how a lower lab-diamond price-point could change the incentive of retailers and front-line sales personal. Lastly, Paul and Rob discuss Taylor Swift's affinity for jewels and they comment on the current state of social media. Hosted by: Paul Zimnisky Guest: Rob Bates Guest plug: www.robbatesauthor.com More information on PZDA's State of the Diamond Market report: www.paulzimnisky.com/products Show contact: paul@paulzimnisky.com or visit www.paulzimnisky.com.
You'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about Conversations in Park City, a new De Beers CEO, and a new spin on a classic Patek Philippe watch. Victoria recaps her time in Park City, where she contemplated the present and future of retail with experts curated by PSFK. Rob reports on the change in leadership at De Beers, where Bruce Cleaver has stepped down and become co-chairman, and Al Cook will step into his shoes as CEO. Victoria covers the latest iteration of a popular Nautilus and what it means for the direction of the Patek Philippe brand.Show Notes01:00 Victoria interviewed the president of Bulgari who was in the Maldives.04:30 A recap of Conversations in Park City09:00 A change in leadership at De Beers19:55 New Patek Philippe watchEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine, jckonline.com Show RecapHospitality Meets JewelryVictoria got up early to speak to the president of Bvlgari, Daniel Paltridge, who was in the Maldives at the time. They talk about the Bvlgari hotel and how expensive it is—€2,500 per night! Rob wonders what guests might get in addition to the room for that price. (Likely not jewelry.) There are other examples of brands that cross over from fashion to hospitality—Armani, Shinola, etc. The hope is that you can capture an audience in one and then target them in the other side of the business.Conversations with Friends—in Park CityVictoria recently traveled to Park City, UT, to Conversations in Park City, the leadership summit hosted by Jewelers Mutual. The brainchild of Mark Smelzer, head of content for Jewelers Mutual (and JCK's former publisher). He had a vision to pull together the crème de la crème of the industry and bringing them all to a leadership retreat. Everyone met at the St. Regis in Deer Valley, with their loved ones in tow. Victoria brought her family and enjoyed the wonderful weather.But the main focus was the content. Mark pulled in one of the leading thinkers on retail strategy and futurism, PSFK. Jeff Weiner of PSFK brought in some experts that they've used for their presentations—on the omnichannel experience, “phigital” retail, and other things retailers need to be prepared for. It was both present- and future-focused, informing retailers about shifts in the consumer atmosphere. Though Victoria tends to tune out when people talk about NFTs, she found this coverage easier to digest. It was a beautiful setting for some great conversations. Overall, the event was brief and meaningful. She hopes there will be another one next year.A Change in Leadership for De BeersRob reports that Bruce Cleaver is stepping down as CEO of De Beers and handing over the reins to Al Cook—an industry outsider who worked for an energy company. His predecessor, Philippe Mellier, was also an outsider. He got great results for the bottom line of the company, but injured some relationships with clients who felt he drove prices too high. Bruce repaired that relationship, and is well-respected. Though it's not clear why he is leaving this position, he will still be involved as co-chairman. It's a job where you're never bored because there are so many aspects to it.Victoria wonders about the selection process. She points out that the new CEO is another European white man. Was anyone from their stakeholder countries considered? Some people have pointed out that De Beers is an African company that caters to women, yet all of its CEOs have been white men. People have comment that Al Cook doesn't have the background on marketing, branding, etc. An outsider will have to be tutored in the varied aspects of the business. It's also of note that Bruce is leaving without a contract with Botswana. A rough agreement has been drafted, but not signed yet. De Beers' portfolio has been diversified by lab-grown, which might give them some leverage.The Lab-Grown Diamond TrajectoryIt's been four years since Lightbox came out. Lab-grown is such a complicated market. Many still don't accept it as a viable category. Swarovski is rolling out lab-grown as well. Breitling has just announced they're starting to use lab-grown diamonds and fully traceable gold. This is more transparent than Victoria has seen a Swiss brand be. It's clear that lab-grown is going to be part of the conversation going forward.New Patek Philippe Watch Speaking of watches! Victoria wrote an NYT piece about a Patek Philippe watch using white gold that might “break the horological internet.” The long-awaited successor to the 5711—a hyped but discontinued watch model— is here. Called the 5811, its main difference is that it's in white gold instead of steel. A Nautilus that has been around since 1976, Victoria is confident it will be popular. It's close to people's hearts, and has always been in steel until now. They're breaking away from the steel sport models that fetch more than the gold models.They went to the prestige category. What they are concerned about is the preservation of the brand. It'll be hard to acquire by an average consumer. Their aim is to elevate the brand.
What you'll learn in this episode: Why content is the most important piece of the jewelry marketing pie How podcasting can connect people in the jewelry industry How Laryssa translated her experience in marketing for the healthcare industry to marketing for the jewelry industry Why digital marketing creates more resonance for brands The biggest mistakes independent jewelers make when marketing their products About Laryssa Wirstiuk Laryssa Wirstiuk is the founder and creative director of Joy Joya. She's passionate about helping jewelry entrepreneurs tell impactful stories about their brands and products, so they can reach their target customers. Laryssa is also the author of Jewelry Marketing Joy: An Approachable Introduction to Marketing Your Jewelry Brand and the host of the Joy Joya Jewelry Marketing Podcast. She has presented at a number of industry conferences and has appeared as a guest on webinars and at other digital events, speaking on the subject of marketing for jewelry brands. Many people don't realize that Laryssa has academic training in creative writing; one of her first jobs after graduate school was as an adjunct instructor at Rutgers University, where she taught creative writing for five years. She never abandoned her passion for teaching and strives to educate as many people as she can about jewelry marketing. She believes that knowledge about marketing is the prerequisite to success in business. Additional Resources: Website Podcast Website Instagram @joyjoyamarketing Linkedin Photos available on TheJewelryJourney.com Transcript: How do independent makers and jewelers stand out in an incredibly saturated market? It's not by using the same marketing strategy as everyone else. That's the motto at Joy Joya, a digital marketing agency for jewelry brands founded by Laryssa Wirstiuk. Laryssa joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about why digital marketing is necessary for jewelry brands; why branded content should be more than just a sales pitch; and why brands may want to rethink their focus on PR. Read the episode transcript here. Sharon: Hello, everyone. Welcome to the Jewelry Journey Podcast. Today, my guest is Laryssa Wirstiuk. She is the founder and creative director of Joy Joya, a digital marketing agency for jewelry brands. She's also the host of the Joy Joya Marketing Podcast and has recently started a second podcast. We'll hear all about her on Jewelry Journey today. Laryssa, welcome to the program. Laryssa: Sharon, thanks so much for having me. I'm excited to be on your podcast. Sharon: I'm so glad to have you. As I was reading the intro, it occurred to me—I've asked myself this many times, but never you—do you have a Spanish background? Joy Joya sounds Spanish to me. What is that? Laryssa: I don't personally have a Spanish background. I'm actually Ukrainian, so totally different. But I'm super passionate about Spanish culture and studied the language for a long time. That is actually where the name for my business came from. So, you are right. Sharon: That's interesting. I'm trying to think—there was a big jewelry show I went to in Barcelona a few years ago. I think it's Joya. So, I was wondering about that. Can you tell us a little about your jewelry journey? Tell us how you got to when you are now. Laryssa: Sure. It kind of makes no sense, but I'll try to keep it brief and straightforward. My training and background actually have nothing to do with jewelry at all. I went to school for creative writing, and I started my career in marketing as well as teaching writing. My background was always from this communications standpoint. Always, though, I was super passionate about jewelry. Apart from work, it was something I always loved looking at. Of course, when I was a broke college student and just starting my career, I couldn't purchase a lot of jewelry, but I loved looking at it. I just had this passion, and it kept poking me in the back for many years, saying, “Why aren't you doing more with this?” I had a moment in my marketing and writing career where I was really unhappy in the industries I had been working in. I had a job in healthcare marketing. I dabbled a little bit in technology marketing, education marketing. Those are all great industries, but I was never really passionate about any of them personally. Still, in the back of my head I was like, “Jewelry, jewelry, jewelry.” So, I randomly decided one day—it corresponded with me moving from New Jersey to California. I was overhauling my life in that way, and I wrote on a napkin, “I'm going to move to Los Angeles and continue doing marketing, but I'm going to focus on jewelry.” I just decided that one day. Sharon: Wow! Were you teaching before that? Laryssa: I was also teaching, yes. As a millennial, I finished grad school during the 2008-2009 recession, and I entered a job market that was completely messed up. Like many people my age, I had 20 jobs. I was doing all the things. I was like, “Freelance this, freelance that,” teaching, marketing, all of this stuff for many years. I decided I wanted to take all of this experience and see what I could do with it in the jewelry industry. Before I moved to California—because as you can imagine, it was a big transition moving across the country—I took a few months to live with my parents to save up a little money and try to really figure out what I was doing. I took a job working at a jewelry store, and that's where I started to learn the language of the customer experience. I got training in selling engagement rings and diamond jewelry. It really confirmed for me that, up to that point, jewelry had been a casual hobby and interest, and now I was like, “I really love this industry.” I fell in love with it. It made me feel confident about this thing I wrote on a little napkin about what I was going to do next. Sharon: What did you fall in love with? Laryssa: I loved the product in general. Then it was having that experience of working in the store and helping people get their engagement ring or find the perfect gift for Christmas or Mother's Day. I was helping people shop and understanding the emotional resonance of what jewelry means to people. I thought that was all so magical. Sharon: You told me you worked in social. You moved into digital and social marketing in other fields and then segued into jewelry. Do I have that right? Laryssa: Yes. Even though I've been focused on jewelry marketing for six years, my marketing career spans back to 2010 because prior to that, I was working in other industries. Sharon: How did you get into social when it comes to the other industries and jewelry? It still has so much potential in jewelry. Laryssa: Social media, you mean? Sharon: Yeah. I should say digital. I went back and forth between digital and social, but go ahead. Laryssa: That's another layer of this, talking about timing and when I finished school and all the changes that were happening in the economy. That 2009-2010 timeframe was when social media became a thing. I think Twitter had launched one or two years prior to that. Instagram was just starting out. Facebook, maybe three or four years before that. It was so new, and I was intrigued by that. So, I was like, “Whoa, what is this? We can make friends and interact with people in all parts of the world based on our interests.” At that time, social media was truly social, not so much in the way it is now, but it was a place to connect. I even had a blog I wrote about social media because I loved it and was so interested in it. It was a natural passion of mine. It was something I was exploring not just in my work, but also after hours. After dinner, I would work on my blog about marketing because I was so interested in it. Sharon: How did you segue to social or digital in jewelry from commercial, let's say? Laryssa: I don't know. I don't have a specific step-by-step way I did that. I think it just felt like a natural fit for me. I don't really know how to explain it. Sharon: What made you start your podcast? How did you start it? Everybody has a podcast today. It's ridiculous. Laryssa: I started my podcast in 2018. So, I've had it for like four years now. Sharon: It's a long time in podcast years today. Laryssa: I know. Going back to digital and content, the content creation and distribution and social part, they're natural passions of mine. Any way I can share myself through content, I want to be doing that. For me, podcasting felt like—I don't want to say the easy way, but it felt low-entry. I could sit at home and do it, and as long as I learned the tools, I could upload it every week or however often. I also felt like I had a lot to share about certain things, primarily in this industry. Most people are communicating on Instagram, for example, and I didn't feel like Instagram was giving me the space to fully expand upon the things I wanted to share. I'm a pretty introverted person, which I think surprises a lot of people because I have so much to say and I'm on camera all the time sharing videos. But I think when I'm in conversation, especially in group settings, I tend to be the one that hangs back a little bit. I'm very quiet and I'm listening. But I feel that when I get on my podcast, it's my time to shine. I can talk and feel very comfortable in that medium, for some reason. Sharon: When you started your podcast, what did you want to accomplish jewelry-wise? Did you have an idea? Laryssa: Sure. I was still very new to the industry at that point, and as I'm sure you know, Sharon, this is an industry that's very multigenerational. People don't usually just hop into it. They typically are in it because their families have been in it, or they've been in it for many, many years. As a newcomer to the industry, I felt that I needed to prove myself in some way. I felt that the podcast would give me a chance to show people that I am passionate about this industry, that I care and I have something to offer. It was my way of offering that. Sharon: Did you immediately come up with Joy Joya because you liked jewelry so much? How did that happen? Laryssa: It was the first name I came up with when I officially started my business in 2016. I don't remember how I came up with it, but I did like the play on words, the fact that “joya” means jewel in Spanish. I liked that the word “joy” is in there, like the English word joy. It felt natural to me because I think marketing and the topics I talk about can be overwhelming and challenging for a lot of people. Everyone wants to be better at marketing and everyone struggles over that, but I wanted to come to it in a fun, playful, approachable way. The name felt like it expressed that for me. Sharon: I think you're right in that it does express it, but there is so much to learn, especially for jewelers who started before Covid. I remember so many people saying, “What do I need online for?” and then being shocked when it actually brought some return. Laryssa: It's so true. Sharon: Your podcast focuses on social, digital, that sort of thing, right? Laryssa: Yes, primarily digital marketing, but I do occasionally touch on more old-school topics. I just did an episode on direct mail, for example. I've covered other, tangential marketing-related things, but typically I'm focused on digital marketing. Sharon: There's so much digitally, it could go on for years and years. So, the new podcast, is it Gold Mine? Laryssa: The Gold Mine is a new segment of my current podcast, but I do have an actual new podcast called Success with Jewelry. It is a cohosted podcast with my partner, Liz Kantner. Liz is a social media marketing expert for the jewelry industry. She works primarily with makers, like metalsmiths and indie jewelry designers. Some consider us to be competitors, but we do service slightly different parts of the industry and have our own strengths. Earlier this year, we randomly decided to start meeting once a week as friends on Zoom. We would talk about our clients and business challenges we were having, what's going on in the industry, just connecting and trying to have community with each other. In those conversations, it evolved into us wanting to offer products or services together. We started earlier this year with a webinar series called Success with Jewelry. We had a pretty good showing for that. People would come to our Zoom presentations, and we would talk about various topics in marketing. More recently, we decided to start this new podcast. Like me, Liz also feels like she has so much to say and offer, but she's primarily on Instagram and feels very limited by that. I think she sees all the fun I'm having with my podcast and how much I'm able to share and communicate. So, I said, “Hey, let's try to do this together and invite people into our private conversations to make others feel like they're not alone in the business challenges they're having, so they feel a sense of community.” It was also just for entertainment because we like to banter and have fun. So, that's what we're doing. Sharon: I do this weekly. How regularly do you sit down to do your podcast? You also sit with Liz and do a separate podcast? Laryssa: I do my own podcast twice a week and I do a podcast with Liz once a week. Sharon: Twice a week. That's a lot. Laryssa: It is a lot. Sharon: Why should jewelers consider digital marketing or social networking? What does it buy them? I see a lot of jewelers at shows. What does it buy them outside of that? Laryssa: It gives them more resonance. I'm going to call it resonance because if you interact with someone in person, of course that is an amazing experience. There is nothing that beats an in-person interaction. But as we all know, the marketplace is super crowded. We are so distracted. We are bombarded by a million messages all the time. The moment you leave that in-person interaction, then what? Maybe you have a business card or some other printed material, but if that jewelry brand has a digital presence, there's an opportunity for them to continue connecting with that person in a digital space, whether that's through email marketing, through their social media posts, through their website, so the connection isn't limited to that in-person experience. Sharon: Do indie makers and jewelers, people already up and running, call you and say, “Hey, I'm lost”? What do they call you and say? Laryssa: Most people who reach out to me have some level of digital marketing going on, and they are frustrated with it, they're not sure if they're doing it right, they need it to be optimized, or they need to know what the other options are. They've already tried it themselves a little bit. I would say that's primarily the type of people who reach out to me. I occasionally get people who are starting from scratch, but that happens more rarely. Sharon: Do they say, “I have a website. I'm trying to redo it, and I don't know how to make it up to date”? What do they do? Laryssa: That could be one scenario, that they need their e-commerce website to be more effective. A lot of times what happens is the different digital marketing touchpoints—so, let's say social media, email, the website—there are a lot of inconsistencies or disconnects between these things. What I'm good at is finding how to make all these things work together and be like a well-oiled machine instead of having these random bits and pieces everywhere. Sharon: So, branding and rebranding is one of your strengths? Laryssa: Yes, definitely. It's something I definitely work on with clients. Sharon: How would you describe a brand when it comes to jewelry, when it comes to engagement rings and Christmas gifts and anniversary gifts? How would you describe it? Laryssa: How would I describe a brand? Sharon: Yeah. Laryssa: It's so individual to the business. I don't know if there's one way to tackle it. In this jewelry industry we're in, there's unfortunately so much same-same. Sharon: Yes, there is. Laryssa: It's really a shame. I think everyone has something unique, but either they're afraid to step into that uniqueness, or they just don't know how. They're too close to it, so they can't see what the unique thing is. I'm always trying to challenge businesses in this industry, not just people who work with me directly, but through my podcasts, like, “Come on. Let's find the thing that makes you unique, because we don't need any more of the same thing. I can guarantee you that. There's already too much of the same thing.” It's a little bit of a disease in this industry. Sharon: I know you're in Orange County, California. I'm in Los Angeles. Sometimes I think if I were in New York, it might be different or easier because you'd be in the center of things. You'd have more access. Do you find that, or do you think that? Laryssa: To be in the center of things for a brand? Sharon: Or to be in New York. Do you feel like sometimes you should be elsewhere? Laryssa: No. I'm in Glendale, actually. I'm not in Orange County. I am pretty central to the downtown L.A. jewelry scene. I do have a lot of clients in New York, and I don't feel like not being there is an obstacle at all. I think in this world now, especially post- Covid, location is so irrelevant. Sharon: That's true. How about on the West Coast? There's so much going on on the East Coast when you talk about conferences and jewelry things. On the West Coast, it's hard to find things besides bling if you're trying to find anything different. Laryssa: That's true. Yes, because in New York, there's—New York City Jewelry Week is coming up. We just had trade shows in August. For me as a service provider, the trade shows are more like I just want to go and see. For me as a service provider, I find the people who attend those trade shows are engaged in trade, and they don't want to talk about anything else. That's an important part of the industry. So, you guys do that, and then when you realize it's not working, you can come talk to me. Sharon: No, I understand. Maybe it's me. It just seems that there's a lot less on this coast than there is on the other coast. Laryssa: Yeah, that's true. Sharon: I love jewelry, but every time I go to a conference, it's been on the East Coast. I've been fortunate that I could go. That's one of the reasons I started the podcast. I felt like, “What about the person in Iowa or Idaho? They want to know about what you're saying, right?” Laryssa: Yeah, definitely. What's your favorite New York City show? Sharon: I go to more conferences, more educational. There's ASJRA. It's been in Chicago; it's been in New York. In the last few years, it's been online. I also like Art Jewelry Forum. They have different things. They do have it here, too. You speak on a lot of panels. You've spoken at JCK, AGS. Tell us what those mean and what they are. Laryssa: Yes, recently I was speaking at JCK. That is pretty much the biggest tradeshow, at least here in North America. It happens in Las Vegas every year. They do have an educational aspect to that conference, but like I mentioned before, I think people's mindsets are more like they're there to do actual trade. Sharon: Yes, to sell or to do business. Laryssa: So, it's me just going to pal around and see people I know primarily. Sharon: There's a lot to be said for that. There's a lot to be said for the networking that takes place there. What topics are you talking about? Laryssa: Yes. This year at JCK, I was on a panel called “The Fringe of Marketing.” We were talking about up-and-coming marketing platforms and tactics that people in the audience maybe wouldn't be as familiar with. Sharon: What would you say those are? Instagram, yes. TikTok? Laryssa: Yeah, we spent a lot of time talking about TikTok. Also, the Metaverse and NFTs and things like that. Sharon: NFTs? What does that stand for? Laryssa: Non-fungible tokens. Sharon: I was telling somebody this morning that you wake up in the morning and say, “O.K., today's the day I'm going to learn more about Instagram or TikTok,” and then you say, “Why?” because 10 minutes is going to change it all. Even with Instagram, it seems like it's gotten so commercial as opposed to what it was before, where a jeweler could really show their stuff. Laryssa: It's hard to keep up with. There's something new every week, honestly. Sharon: I bet there is. I'm laughing; my husband is a TikTok addict. My sister said to me, “Isn't that for kids?” I said, “Yeah.” I know it's for adults too, but it's morphed a lot. So, what are the top two points you want to make when you talk about jewelry? Laryssa: Jewelry marketing? Sharon: Yeah. Laryssa: I think more people need to be leaning into creating valuable content. I'm just making up a number, but 99% of jewelry businesses are too focused on themselves, the “Me, me, me. Look what I have. Look at me. My stuff is pretty. This is what I can offer you,” and not as focused on the customer and providing value. What does the customer want? What can you give them? How can you make their lives better? And content is a great way to do that. Blog posts, video content, e-books, style guides, things that educate, inform, entertain, inspire the customer, rather than just being an infinite sales pitch for your sparkly thing. That is the primary point I would like to make. My second point is that I think most of the industry thinks about marketing in a—I don't want to say old-school or traditional way, because it's not really, but they're very focused on PR. How can I get on the celebrity? How can I get in the magazine? A lot of them also lean into social media and advertising. Those are the primary three things that almost every jewelry brand does with their marketing and outreach strategy. But if everyone's doing the same thing and most people's products look kind of the same, I don't know what you're hoping to accomplish there. Sharon: Do you have to persuade a lot of jewelers? Do you find a lot of resistance? Laryssa: To what I'm saying? Sharon: Yeah. Laryssa: I don't think it's for everyone, honestly. There are a million marketing agencies out there that will do that. They can go do that, and they can continue seeing the same results they're seeing, but I think if someone is truly ready to try a different way or think differently about their approach, I'm the person for them. Sharon: The things you said, blogs and style books, do you do all of that? Laryssa: Yes. Sharon: You must be well-positioned to do that. You've written some books, right? Laryssa: I have written a book for my business and another unrelated fiction book. Sharon: You just want to write, right? Laryssa: Yes, I am a writer at heart. I studied it. I used to teach writing. It is, to me, the easiest and most natural way to communicate. Sharon: And it comes in very handy with jewelry. Laryssa, thank you so much for being with us today. It's been great to have you. I wish you the best with your business. Laryssa: Thanks, Sharon. I really appreciate chatting with you. I love your podcast, and it was so fun to have you interview me. Sharon: We will have photos posted on the website. Please head to TheJewelryJourney.com to check them out. Thank you again for listening. Please leave us a rating and review so we can help others start their own jewelry journey.
In This EpisodeYou'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Mark Smelzer, chief content executive of Jewelers Mutual and JCK's former publisher.Show Notes01:33 The hosts welcome their guest, Mark Smelzer03:30 Mark talks about his background in the jewelry business07:00 Mark recalls his first impressions of the industry10:10 The role of print today13:15 The shift to content marketing19:30 Mark's prediction on jewelry sales21:20 What can we do better?23:50 How the industry has changedEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jewelersmutual.com, @jckmagazine, jckonline.comShow RecapMark's BeginningsMark started in magazine ad sales in Los Angeles. He became the publisher of a city magazine called Buzz. When it went under, he moved to Variety—the entertainment trade publication, which is what eventually drew Mark to New York City. After a corporate shake-up at Variety, he was informed that he was the publisher of JCK magazine. Hedda Schupak, JCK's editor-in-chief at the time, said, “Welcome to the jewelry business. It's not unlike the Hotel California. You can check out any time, but you can never leave.” Eighteen years later, her words ring true.His First ImpressionsMark knew very little about jewelry in the beginning, not having much personal connection to it. He reflects on how much the industry has changed in 18 years. It used to be more male-dominated and traditional, but it's always been warm and welcoming. It was the first time he had to sell advertising directly to business owners.The Evolving Role Of PrintMark compares his time in publishing to selling horse-and-buggies right before the advent of the Model T. There are areas where print still resonates: city magazines, niche books, and catalogs. “Print is not dead, but, boy, did it morph and change," he says.The Shift To Content MarketingThere was a gradual shift from writing stories and articles to writing “content.” When the internet became usable by laypeople, the ability to publish content became more widely accessible to the masses. Victoria ties this shift to what Mark is doing at Jewelers Mutual with the Zing Report. His task was to raise awareness of the Zing marketplace—a hub for the variety of services that Jewelers Mutual offers. Content includes upbeat articles, interviews, and more.Jewelry Sales PredictionsMark hopes the pandemic sales spike will continue. He says that the pandemic reminded a lot of people of the emotional side of jewelry. Will the industry be in a better place than it was pre-pandemic? That remains to be seen.What Can The Industry Do Better?What do we need to overcome in the current economy? The jewelry industry could be more digitally savvy. Retailers should work toward making the in-store and digital experience more seamless. Mark remembers a “Got Milk”–style campaign he worked on with Jewelers of America. It raised awareness of jewelry using the slogan, “Another piece of your story." Then the pandemic came along, it was shelved, and jewelry had such a great two years that it was no longer needed.How The Industry Has ChangedIt has become a younger, broader industry with more diversity and inclusion. The jewelry business is richer when a greater variety of people is included. He ties how energizing that experience of connection can be to Jewelers Mutual's upcoming retreat, Conversations in Park City, which will feature networking opportunities, meaningful conversations, big ideas, and fun activities.
In This EpisodeYou'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Mithun Sacheti, CEO of CaratLane.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Mithun Sacheti, CEO of CaratLane.07:17 Mithun compares CaratLane to Blue Nile.10:15 Victoria asks about his early business.14:42 Mithun describes his most recent experience at the JCK show.16:09 Mithun talks about Tanishq purchasing majority share of CaratLane.21:00 Rob asks about CaratLane's brick-and-mortar stores.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, CaratLane.comShow RecapIntroducing Mithun SachetiMithun Sacheti is the CEO of CaratLane, which is often described as the Indian version of Blue Nile. He spoke to JCK from the southeastern coast of India. His mother and father were in the jewelry business, and Mithun describes it as a “generational business,” which is how he got into it himself. Mithun studied at GIA and worked briefly in San Diego. When he returned to India, he opened his own jewelry store.Blue Nile InspirationMithun compares the Indian jewelry business model to the business in the United States. Mithun says he learned from Blue Nile that you have to find the easiest place to enter the industry. In India, while diamonds are fine to sell, its real strong point is selling jewelry as opposed to loose diamonds and engagement rings. In the early days, Mithun describes a hostility similar to what Blue Nile faced in its early days.Building the BusinessVictoria asks how Mithun coaxed people to buy originally, and he said initially consumers were resistant. CaratLane built a try-at-home model in an attempt to get people to buy their diamonds, which ended up being successful. Mithun doesn't think this model would necessarily work in America.The JCK ShowMithun was just at the most recent JCK show—the first one he attended was back in 1998. Victoria asks for his take on this year's JCK show, and Mithun said it was all about making connections.TanishqIn 2016, Tanishq purchased a majority share in CaratLane. Tanishq is the largest jewelry company in India and has been around for 25 years now, with a market capitalization close to $1 billion. Mithun says Tanishq has been a great partner, and CaratLane has been able to grow on a much faster scale thanks to its involvement. Victoria asked what other kinds of things CaratLane has tried as a company, and Mithun describes a virtual try-on, different from augmented reality, that didn't pan out. One thing that worked very well was building an omnichannel network.Brick-and-MortarRob asks why CaratLane believed it needed a brick-and-mortar store when it was successful online. Mithun believes there is a need for tactile jewelry shopping, even though consumers find jewelry online.(Photo courtesy of Mithun Sacheti)
In this episode, I interview Oliver Maroney, the general manager of Web3 & NFT's at Cameo. If you have even an ounce of curiosity about Web3 and NFTs, then please check out this interview because we break everything down in easy-to-understand terms. I saw Oliver talk at JCK and then subsequently reached out to him because I liked his no-nonsense, non-pretentious ways of explaining things. I thought he'd be the perfect expert for my audience, and I was so grateful he agreed to do this interview. With his unique background in media and sports journalism, he's not a Silicon Valley tech type who only knows how to speak the language to other savvy tech industry people. - Oliver explains Web3 and NFTs in the simplest terms possible for our beginner listeners. - He also explains the potential that NFTs can have for jewelry brands as well as how they can fit into a digital marketing mix and elevate the customer experience. - You'll have some great resources and know how to take your first steps to learning more about NFTs and how they can support your marketing efforts. Links mentioned in this episode: Transcript - https://joyjoya.com/nfts-for-jewelry Sparkle Award - https://sparkleaward.com Valerie Madison TikTok - https://www.tiktok.com/@valeriemadisonjewelry Cameo - https://www.cameo.com/ OpenSea - https://opensea.io/ Oliver Maroney Linkedin - https://www.linkedin.com/in/olivermaroney/ Oliver Maroney Twitter - https://twitter.com/OliverMaroney
In This EpisodeYou'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss former JCK editor-in-chief George Holmes' legacy, LVMH's investment in Lusix, and Russian diamonds and Ukrainian jewelers.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob remember former JCK editor-in-chief George Holmes13:51 Victoria reports on the state of the industry17:15 Rob reports on LVMH's investment in Lusix20:03 Victoria and Rob talk about Russian diamonds and Ukrainian jewelersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapRemembering George HolmesGeorge Holmes, JCK's former editor-in-chief of 22 years, died last month. Victoria describes his as a legendary editor. Rob talks about his time working with him and says he was gracious and intelligent with unyielding editorial integrity. Victoria and Rob share an audio clip from an earlier podcast of Joe Thompson speaking about George Holmes.State of the IndustryVictoria discusses a Jewelers Board of Trade webinar with its president, Erich Jacobs. He showed graphs on consumer sentiment, confidence, unemployment rates, and more. Erich says unemployment is linked to consumer satisfaction—if unemployment is low, generally consumer confidence is high. Now, we're seeing a break from this. We have record low unemployment and low consumer confidence. Victoria says retailers may feel a little pinch in their bottom line, as consumers aren't using credit cards as much.LVMH and Lab-Grown DiamondsRob comments on the lab-grown space and LVMH Luxury Holdings' investment in Lusix, an Israeli lab-grown diamond company. LVMH is not being shy about its investment—but this investment raises questions. Rob believes LVMH wants Lusix to scale with more persistent production. Victoria asks if the luxury sector is finally ready to accept lab-grown diamonds, and Rob isn't sure.Russian DiamondsVictoria asks what's happening in the world of Russian diamonds, and Rob says there are rumors in the industry about banks in Europe not wanting to fund Russian diamond shipments. Rob says the big companies have figured out a way to get diamonds back on the market after a slow run for Russian diamonds. On the flip side, Victoria has spoken to many Ukrainian jewelers, and her takeaway was their commitment to improving the industry and getting attention for Ukrainian jewelers in the market.
In This EpisodeYou'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates share their post–JCK show takeaways and the interviews they conducted live on the JCK show floor.Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria share their takeaways from the JCK show09:30 Victoria interviews Jewelers Mutual Group's chief content executive, Mark Smelzer11:00 Victoria interviews Stuller CEO Matt Stuller13:40 Rob interviews Craig Underwood of Underwoods Fine Jewelers17:00 Rob interviews Feriel Zerouki of De Beers20:18 Rob interviews Steve Coe, CEO of Lightbox Jewelry25:40 Victoria interviews Yuliya Kusher, CEO of Meylor Global29:26 Victoria interviews Manos Phoundoulakis of EZEC31:23 Rob interviews Jeff Corey, former owner of Day's Jewelers, now currently the vice president of marketingEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapJCK Show TakeawaysVictoria and Rob comment on how amazing the JCK show was this year. Rob says the mood and attendance were really strong and how the jewelry industry has been on a high the past two years. Some people even told Rob it was their best show ever. Others came to the show for the first time—a great reminder of why we have in-person shows. There was some awareness of inflation at the show. Victoria also mentions orange emerging as a hot color in jewelry.Mark SmelzerVictoria interviews Jewelers Mutual Group's chief content executive, Mark Smelzer. Mark used to be the publisher of JCK, and Victoria asks what it's like to be on the other side of the JCK show experience. Mark comments on the overall energy at the show, and that it's great to see sales happening at every booth.Matt StullerMatt Stuller, CEO of Stuller, is excited to be at the show. Victoria comments on how busy the Stuller booth is. Victoria asks about its innovations this year. Victoria loves its permanent bracelet stand. Victoria asks how business has been so far this year, and Matt says business has been very strong. Everyone is cautiously optimistic.Craig UnderwoodRob mentions how Craig Underwood of Underwoods Fine Jewelers has just won the Robert M. Shipley Award, and Craig says they're still on the high from receiving that award. Rob asks what they're seeing at the show so far, and Craig says he's loving the energy. Rob asks if Craig thinks this is going to be a great holiday, and Craig says yes—he's cautiously optimistic.Feriel ZeroukiFeriel Zerouki, who won the Diamonds Do Good Next Gen Award at the show, is the senior vice president of corporate affairs for De Beers. Rob asks about Feriel's involvement with the Responsible Jewellery Council, and Feriel says despite some problems recently, there's also been great progress. Rob asks about the JCK show, and Feriel says it's going well.Steve CoeRob asks Steve Coe, the CEO of Lightbox Jewelry, how things have progressed with Lightbox, which created shock waves in the industry when it first released its lab-grown jewelry line. Steve says 25% of their buyers are repeat customers. Rob notes how Lightbox expects to be using 100% renewable energy by the end of 2022, and Steve says it is making great progress on that. Steve says Lightbox is looking to other carat sizes and other colored diamonds besides pink and blue.Yuliya KusherVictoria interviews Yuliya Kusher, CEO of Meylor Global, the Ukrainian diamond company making lab-grown diamonds. She shows Victoria the largest uncut lab-grown diamond in the world, 150 carats. Victoria asks how the war is impacting their business, but Yuliya says they can't really predict what will happen day to day.Manos PhoundoulakisVictoria interviews her good friend Manos Phoundoulakis about his new company EZEC, which he started with Andrew DeMarco. EZEC stands for Easy Emergency Contact. They claim to be saving lives and streamlining health care through jewelry. Its technological advancements help first responders with an easier way for people to wear medical ID bracelets.Jeff CoreyJeff Corey, vice president of marketing at Day's Jewelers, has been to 30 JCK shows. He was at the original and has been to every show since. He says it's exciting to be here and doing business. He's shopping around, looking at technology, and trying to see what's new and exciting in jewelry. Last year, Day's Jewelers became employee-owned, so they share the profits of the company. Rob ask how business has been this year, and Jeff says it's been excellent.
JCK, the biggest jewelry show in the Wester Hemisphere just ended last week, and Michael wanted to hear how it was so he invited Stuart Blessman, Director of Digital Marketing at Punchmark, to recap how the show was, what the buzz was about, and which parties he thought were best! If you didn't get to attend this year, you'll get a full recap here!
While Joel wanders the Canadian plains petting Moose and trying to convince Canadian geese to stay in Canada we are honored to have Jenny Cotie Kangas, aka JCK, stepping into the guest host slot and on this week's show EUROPE is HUNGRY, the world will soon be over now that Google's version of Skynet is ALIVE, Microsoft is kinder and gentler and who knew business coaching was so damned important? Who knew? Strap-in kids it's gonna be a bumpy ride.
In This EpisodeYou'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss Steven Kaiser's passing, the Oak collection watch event at London's Design Museum, De Beers' blockchain platform, recycled gold, and the JCK Las Vegas show.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob give their condolences to the family of Steven Kaiser.05:25 Victoria recounts her visit to London's Design Museum to see the Oak collection.13:40 Rob explains De Beers' blockchain technology.16:22 Rob is concerned with recycled gold and what the term actually means.21:09 Victoria and Rob are excited for JCK Las Vegas!Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapSteven KaiserVictoria and Rob give their condolences to the family of Steven Kaiser. The industry titan passed away a week before recording this podcast. He was feted at 24 Karat Weekend in March. He was a "connecter" and, as Rob reports, very good at smoothing things over. The jewelry industry mourns his passing, and he will be deeply missed at JCK Las Vegas this week.The Oak CollectionVictoria was one of 65 journalists invited to London in late May to attend an event at the Design Museum. There, she saw the Oak (one-of-a-kind) collection. The Oak's owner, Patrick Getreide, has been collecting watches for 40 years. He has more than 600 of them (heavy on Patek Phillipe and Rolex), and 130 of them were on display for just one week. Victoria said the event felt like the gilded age of watches. Rob briefly mentions the Apple Watch and its effect on the watch industry.De Beers' BlockchainRob talks about De Beers and its blockchain technology. Basically, Rob says, it's a way to track diamonds through the chain in a trade-facing, rather than consumer-facing, manner. De Beers says it can trace all of its diamonds of 1 carat and above and believes it can scale this technology. Rob says this technology has been a long time coming, and De Beers has the most ambitious technology out of everyone trying their hand at it.What Is Recycled Gold?Rob recently wrote a story on recycled gold, and Victoria asks what prompted him to write it. Rob says he was recently part of a webinar about recycled gold, and it made him consider what recycled gold really is. As it turns out, there are many definitions if recycled gold—including the one the Federal Trade Commission uses: something that would otherwise go in the trash. The problem is, gold isn't thrown out. Rob talks about why labeling anything as recycled gold is a problem and why the industry should start being clearer on what recycled gold really is.JCK Las VegasVictoria and Rob's schedules are packed for JCK Las Vegas. All of the events are back on, there's tons of excitement, and Victoria is hoping for some good weather (not too hot!). From what Victoria understands, there is a great need to restock, which will make for a great show. JCK will be giving talks from the JCK stage and various educational classrooms. Victoria and Rob both look forward to meeting everyone there and give a little review of what to expect. Rob will also be signing copies of his novels!
In This EpisodeYou'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX Jewelry Group at Reed Exhibitions. They'll be discussing JCK Las Vegas 2022 and all that you can expect at the 30th anniversary of the show, which runs June 10–13.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob welcome their guest Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX Group at Reed Exhibitions.5:33 Sarin explains the layout of this year's show.10:35 Rob asks about the education and entertainment lineup at the show.16:32 Rob asks Sarin what she does to get ready for the show.23:55 Sarin gives hot tips for your time at the show.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapIntroducing Sarin BachmannVictoria and Rob welcome their guest Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of Reed Jewelry Group. She's here to talk about the JCK show. The Luxury show opens June 8, and JCK Las Vegas kicks off on June 10. Sarin then tells how she got into the jewelry industry. She started off by working as a consultant, and one of her clients was Reed Exhibitions. She ended up leaving to work for Reed. She loves the jewelry industry, and knew she eventually wanted to run the jewelry shows. She particularly loves the passion in this industry.The JCK Show LayoutVictoria briefly asks about Yancy Weinrich, Sarin's predecessor as head of the Reed Jewelry Group. Yancy recently left RX, and now is a president of another trade show company. Sarin then pivots to talking about this year's show. She says the layout is going to be similar to how things were in 2019 (i.e., having Luxury back on level 2). Sarin is excited for international visitors to be back at the show. New this year will be a pavilion called The Shops for gifts for retailers to fill out their stores. JCK swag will be available there as well.Education and EntertainmentRob asks about the education and entertainment lineup, and Sarin gives the full rundown, including sessions on sustainability, trends, digital marketing, NFTs, and much more. All programs will be back, including a visit from the cast of the musical Hamilton in a private performance with an after-party to follow. Victoria asks what Sarin is looking most forward to, and she says she's looking forward to all the photo and video opportunities on the floor. She's also looking forward to the show's 30th-anniversary celebration happening on Saturday.Getting Ready for the ShowRob asks what Sarin does to get ready for the show—Sarin says packing! She's out there for 10 or 11 nights, and the act of packing gets her excited for the show. Sarin says she's not nervous, but there's always some anxiety leading up to the show, especially for her own speech. She also says she never gets tired in Vegas, she's always excited and ready to go to the show. Victoria plugs the newest issue of JCK, which includes a guide to new Vegas attractions. Victoria and Sarin both mention where they think you can get the best lunch in town.Hot TipsRob asks Sarin what her average JCK show day is like. Sarin says she saves checking out jewelry for the last day. Rob asks what she'd advise to those on the fence about coming to the JCK show, and Sarin says if you're on the fence, you're going to miss out. She also recommends preregistering for events. This year's show will be a celebration of JCK and of the industry coming together for 30 years.(Photo courtesy of Sarin Bachmann)
© 2020-2025 Ivy Podcast Discovery LLC
