Podcasts about american rabbit breeders association

With fair season in full swing, now is the perfect time to learn about the animal projects that exhibitors put so much hard work into. However, it is also time for those young exhibitors to learn and grow within their project areas.  Theresa Christen is a county fair rabbit judge and an American Rabbit Breeders Association judge. She shares more about how she works to educate young rabbit exhibitors and how she judges at the county fair level. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

We have many Champions here at Georgia Cyber Academy (GCA) with interesting hobbies, but we may have come across one more unique than most. One of our 12th graders, Wyatt, raises, breeds, and shows Netherland Dwarf rabbits, and he has been doing this for the past six to seven years. Over the years, he has had much success with this hobby, including winning many titles like Best of Breed and Best in Show at different events throughout the country. Wyatt began raising rabbits after his siblings left the house because he was looking for something to do with his mom. He and she discovered raising, breeding, and showing rabbits and after a year of working with his mom raising Holland Lop rabbits, he decided to branch off and to raise Netherland Dwarf rabbits on his own. Even though they are now each working with different breeds, they still work together and bond over raising and showing their rabbits. Wyatt explained that the Netherland Dwarf rabbit is the second smallest breed weighing in at around 2-2.5 pounds, having a short, stumpy, and stocky frame with short ears. Wyatt raises and breeds the rabbits with the Standard of Perfection in mind—the book that details the perfect rabbit, categorizing and scoring rabbits up to 100 points. He loves watching the rabbits develop and presenting them at events across the country.Wyatt has traveled to 16 states competing at different shows including three large conventions: one in Reno, Nevada, one in Louisville, Kentucky, and one in Springfield, Massachusetts. These shows have judges who score the rabbits based on the Standard of Perfection. Wyatt shared that the Netherland Dwarf is posed sitting up, with the perfect body being described as a baseball sitting on top of a cantaloupe. At many of these events, his rabbits have earned Best of Breed and even Best in Show. He might need to dedicate a room for housing his ribbons thanks to the number of ribbons he has gained over time. Currently he is thinning down his herd, and shared that he currently has 20-40 rabbits, but that number is constantly in flux based on his goals. What he enjoys most about raising rabbits are not the rabbits, but the people. He mentioned he has met many great people over his time raising rabbits, making many friends, gaining mentors, and developing a close community with tight bonds that feels like family. He has traveled and shared many of his greatest life events and achievements with these people, and he wouldn't trade it for anything. He noted that one of his greatest achievements was when he won Best in Show with one of his home-grown rabbits—a challenge he set for himself in the beginning.  He loves and appreciates that GCA has been so flexible in working with him to pursue this hobby. Many times, when he has had to travel and compete in an event, GCA allowed him to participate and to work with him to complete assignments and tests. He has never felt like he has missed out on his education thanks to GCA and its flexibility. There are many directions Wyatt could go with this hobby including being a judge or becoming more involved in the American Rabbit Breeders Association, but he knows that one thing is for sure—whether he has 100 rabbits or 1 rabbit, he plans to remain involved in some capacity. We are so proud of Wyatt and his hootworthy rabbits, and we love that he shared this unique hobby with us! We know he has plenty of Best in Shows left to win! 

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   English Angora This breed is probably the most distinctive because of its long heavy fur that covers its ears and face. In full coat, their bunny features are covered and sometimes they are mistaken to be a small dog. The wool is silky and fine which makes it very soft. The English angora looks like a ball of fluff, to quote the breed standard. They come in many colors, and have long, dense wool over their entire body. English angoras even have wool on their head, ears, feet, and tail. A good English Angora rabbit does not look very much like a rabbit, mainly because of his head furnishings: long tassels on the ears, abundant head bangs and side trimmings with the eyes hidden under all of the furnishings. The face should be short, flat and wide. With these kind of facial characteristics, no wonder people are confused about whether they are seeing a rabbit or a Pekinese dog! The English Angora comes in white and a variety of beautiful colors. The coat is characterized by having little guard hair in proportion to its wool, and wraps rather tightly when spun, with relatively minimal fluffing. It is one of the smallest if not the smallest breed of the Angoras, weighing 5 to 7 1/2 pounds at maturity. English Angora Rabbit Breed History/Origin The Angora rabbit is one of the oldest domestic breed of rabbits, likely originating from Ankara, Turkey (historically known as Angora). The exact history of angora rabbits is unknown, but there are Roman records of wooled rabbits as early as 100 BC. The Romans possibly brought their angora rabbits into eastern Europe, as by 500-600 AD angoras were firmly established. The first mention of angoras in England was in the 1500’s. Records from France state that the first angoras appeared in their country in 1723. Angoras were brought to the United States around 1900, and they were primarily show rabbits. When they eventually made their way to America, prior to 1939, there was merely one type of woolly rabbits, which was called the “Angora Wooler.” In 1939, the Angora Wooler was re-classified into two type of rabbits – the French and English type. In 1944, the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) officially separated these into two breeds, which are now known as the French Angora and English Angora Rabbit. In the United States, the French and English angoras were lumped together as one breed until 1944, when the ARBA recognized the English angora as its own breed. Overall Description These small, compact rabbits have a broad, flat head and short ears with plenty of woolly fur on them. They also have fur on their faces (unlike any other Angora), as well as woolly feet. Rabbits of the Angora breed are adorned with "fur", growths of wool on the ears and the entire face except above the nose, and front feet, along with their thick body, and wool. They are gentle in nature, but they are not recommended for those who do not groom their animals. Their wool is very dense and needs to be groomed twice a week. This is the smallest Angora rabbit of the four ARBA-recognized breeds. This breed is more common as a pet because of the facial features that give it a puppy dog or teddy bear look. If the texture of the wool is correct, the maintenance is relatively easy; if the texture of the rabbit is cottony, it requires a great deal of maintenance. They are sometimes affectionately known as the "Wooly Wabbits". English angoras are primarily show rabbits in the United States, and they are often Best In Show winners. English angoras are also kept for their wool, which can be spun into yarn. Coat English Angoras can come in a rainbow of different colors. The English Angora rabbit is the only Angora that has facial furnishings. This means they have dense bands and even side trimmings so their entire body (including their feet) are covered in fur. They are often called “round balls of fluff” when their coat is in perfect condition. The English Angora’s coat is thick, woolly and silky in texture. Regular grooming, even during off-shedding periods, are necessary, or else their fur become tangled, matted and otherwise unpleasant. Whether you are raising your English Angora rabbit to be a show rabbit, wool production rabbit or pet rabbit, it is important to keep their coat tangle-free. In order to do this, use a pet grooming brush with wire bristles (similar to those used with dogs or cats) once to twice a week. If you’re English Angora is a pet, be sure to take it to a groomer or use shears to keep their coat short, as it will constantly grow. Those using the English Angoras for their wool report shearing their coat about four times per year, and that can add up to a lot of wool! Should any matting appear, you may also use shears to remove them. If you decide to keep an English Angora rabbit as a pet, giving them what is known as a “puppy cut” will make grooming them easier. This kind of “haircut” involves shearing most of their bodies and faces to keep their coat short, but leaving their feet and ear coat relatively long. The result is a rabbit that resembles somewhat of a tiny poodle. The Length of the coat/wool: There has been some controversy in the Angora World in the last few years. If you read the Breed Standard, there is a minimum length of 2 inches, but no maximum length. There is "no advantage" which means no extra points given to wool longer than 5 inches. The standard did not say there is a "disadvantage" which means points taken away from the wool longer than 5 inches. The conclusion, therefore, is that the wool cannot be "too long" Colors English Angoras can come in a rainbow of different colors. The Agouti group of English Angoras is classified as Lynx, Chestnut and Chocolate. The Self group comes in Black, Blue, Chocolate or Lilac, the Shaded Group English Angoras are Black Tort, Blue Tort, Chocolate Tort or Lilac Tort and the Show Class is classified as having ruby eyes and a white coat. Finally, the Pointed Group English Angoras have either white wool with either black spots on their nose and legs (these are called the Black Pointed White), white wool with brown spots on their nose and legs (Chocolate Pointed White) or white wool with light grey spots on their nose and legs (Blue Pointed White). The English Angora can be bred to have broken colors—i.e., white with black spots—but this is not accepted by ARBA standards, and would lead to a disqualification when showing the rabbit. When showing an English Angora rabbit, the toenails should also be only one color, the ears could be folded over at the tips, and the furnishings on the face may cover their eyes. The English Angora is the only one of the Angora breeds that has hair covering its eyes. Recognized Varieties: English angoras are shown in two color classification: white and colored. The white classification includes pointed whites (Himalayan marked), red eyed white (REW), and blue eyed white (BEW). The varieties in the colored class are chinchilla, chocolate chinchilla, lilac chinchilla, squirrel, chestnut, chocolate agouti, copper, lynx, opal, broken, black, blue, chocolate, lilac, pearl, sable, seal, smoke pearl, blue tortoiseshell, chocolate tortoiseshell, lilac tortoiseshell, tortoiseshell, blue steel, chocolate steel, lilac steel, steel, cream, fawn, and red. ARBA Body Type: Compact Approximate Size: 5 to 7 1/2 pounds Important Things to Look for When Buying Stock: Wool carries the most points in the English angora standard. The wool should be very dense, with a silky texture. It should be free from mats. It should look healthy, and not part over the back. The underwool should be crimped, with guard hairs present. The wool should be an even length over the rabbit’s entire body, gradually blending to the shorter wool on the belly. The ideal length for the wool is 3 1/2 to 5 inches. Longer wool is not given any advantage. Wool should not be so long that is spoils the “ball of fluff” look of English angoras. English angoras should be close-coupled and compact. Look for a well-rounded, deep rabbit. The topline should rise from right behind the ears, reach a high point above the hips, than round down smoothly to the base of the tail. The head should be broad with bangs and side trimmings. The ears should be short, carried in a small “V”, and fringed and tasseled. Feet and tail are to have wool. In addition to a good face, an English Angora rabbit's body should be short and cobby; legs and feet should have good wool coverage. Last, but not least, the wool quality should be dense, silky and long. According to The Standards of Perfection of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, 57 percent of the points in judging English Angora rabbits are allocated to wool. Of these 57 points, 25 points are on density, 20 points are on texture and 12 points are on length. Though one does not want to keep an English Angora rabbit in show coat at all times, a good quality rabbit should be capable of putting on a good coat. An English Angora in top condition is one of the most beautiful animals in the world. A neglected one, however, is the saddest thing one can ever see. Care Requirements First and foremost, English Angoras require a lot of attention in the coat department because their coat is so woolly and thick. They need regular brushings (1-2 times a week) with a wire-bristled comb and shearing approximately four times a year to keep their coat mat-free. Unless you are willing to dedicate this much time into keeping your rabbit happy and healthy, I would not recommend this breed for first-time owners. Feeding English Angoras: One of the most important part of angora care is the feeding. Angoras need extra protein to support constant wool production. It is recommended feeding Angora rabbits 18% protein commercial rabbit pellets which can be bought at any pet store that carries rabbit supplies. Up until 4-6 months you can full feed your rabbit at any time with pellets and Timothy hay. After 6 months your rabbit is an adult and their food needs to be cut back. A good daily formula to follow for pellets is: approx. 1/2 - 3/4 cups of feed for English angoras and approx. 3/4 - 1 cup of feed for French, German, and Satin angoras Hay: Feed rabbits Timothy hay to add roughage to their diet which helps prevent "wool block". Twice a day, stuff a hand full of hay into both ends of an empty toilet paper roll tube. you can also use a hay feeder but some rabbits will knock the hay into their cages and it gets in their fur. Sticking it in the door is another option. Like most rabbits, English Angora rabbits require a diet consisting 70 percent of hay. The remaining 30 percent should be equal amounts of fresh fruits, vegetables and high-quality pellets to ensure they are getting the recommended vitamins, nutrients and proteins needed to grow. Baby rabbits, or “kits,” require a different diet. Any kit younger than 3 weeks old should strictly be drinking their mother’s milk. Kits that are 3-4 weeks old can be given nibbles of alfalfa as well as pellets and once they are 4-7 weeks, you should given them access to plenty pellets as well as alfalfa. When kits are 7 weeks to 7 months old, you should switch to unlimited pellets and hay and finally, when they are 12 weeks old, slowly introduce them to vegetables to find out which ones they prefer. A note on Feeders: "J" feeders are convenient, but may damage the head furnishings. An inside feeder of at least 4"x4" is nice, but it requires to open each cage door at feeding time. A note on Water: Use a water bottle, not a crock. An English Angora rabbit's trimmings are easily matted if he has to drink water out of a crock or a dish. Always make sure you rabbit has fresh water every day. Treats: Try to only give rabbits treats once a week. You can give them a gourmet meal of bananas, broccoli, and papaya, plus extra hay. Grass (fresh wild weed grass, lawn clippings as long as they do not contain residues of fertilizer and spray), greens, oranges, apples, carrots, melons, plums, grapefruits, peaches, corn, corn stalks. A variety of food can give them different nutrients. Never overdo it, however. Small portions give them enjoyment; large quantities give them diarrhea. When giving treats, if the rabbit does not consume them right away, make sure that wool does not stick to the treat. If there is wool on the treat, remove the wool or discard the treat to lessen the chance of woolblock. This helps to keep their digestive system healthy and to prevent wool block. Begin this kind of supplementation at 4-6 months of age. Babies' systems are delicate, so be careful to introduce new items slowly into their diet. It is also recommend giving your rabbit Papaya tablets (to prevent/relieve Wool Block) 2-5 tablets once a week. They are available in health food stores and sometimes in the vitamin section of grocery stores. Wildbird seed mix: Some rabbits love this mix. Once or twice a month, withhold the regular rabbit feed and give 1/4 cup of this mix as a substitute. This has also been reportedly helped with minimizing wool Block issues. English Angora rabbits require a high protein high fiber diet. The protein is necessary for wool growth and the fiber is necessary for lessening the problem of woolblock. Due to the weight limit placed on the English Angora rabbits in the A.R.B.A. Standard, you also should control the diet. In addition, by feeding the same amount in each feeding, the owner will have a good idea whether the rabbit is in a normal state or not. If the dish is empty before the next feeding, generally speaking, the rabbit is doing fine. If there are leftovers in the dish for a couple of feedings, the owner better carefully check on the rabbit to see whether the water bottle is functioning well; whether the rabbit is suffering from diarrhea, woolblock or even maggot infestation. Angoras enjoy alfafa hay, grass hay and oat hay. Alfafa hay is rich in protein but quite messy to use. When buying Alfafa hay, select the bale which looks green and fresh from the outside, preferably with the dried leaves attached to the stems. The yellowish ones are too dry and leaves will fall out in the rabbits cage. The rabbit enjoy alfafa but the grass and oat hay are the ones which provide the rough-age necessary to prevent wool block. Housing English Angoras make great pets and their enclosure can either be indoors or outdoors, depending on your housing situation. Indoor bunny enclosures should be large enough to allow your rabbit to move around freely and should have bedding to keep your Angora happy. To ensure a clean coat, make sure to spot-clean your rabbit’s enclosure everyday and change their bedding once or twice a week. If the enclosure it outside, make sure it has enough protection from dangers such as inclement weather and other wildlife, but access to wind and sun. Exercise: Rabbits need exercise just like people. Since an English Angora rabbit's coat can pick up dirt, leaves and stickers from the ground, it is necessary to confine him in a clean area. If you choose in-house exercise, you should rabbit-proof the areas your rabbit is allowed to visit. Rabbits can do great damage to electrical cords of all types. If the power happens to be on when the rabbit is chewing, they could die from electrocution. If you choose an outdoor exercise area, the ideal set up will have a solid fence, large lawn, no predators, no swimming pool, a little sun with lots of shade and some tasty greens available for digging and munching. Not all yards satisfy these requirements. One possible way to come close to this is to construct an exercise pen and move it to areas on the lawn or patio under a tree. When exercise time is over, you should check to see how much sticker, twigs and other debris are attached to the coat of the English Angora rabbit. Make sure they are all removed before putting the rabbit back into the cage. If not done, the rabbit is likely to try to lick them off himself and ingest wool in the process and cause woolblock. In addition, if there are any foxtails and burrs, they could cause injuries to the rabbits' skin and eyes GROOMING Grooming, Care, and Additional Notes: English angoras have the softest wool of the four ARBA angora breeds. They also require the most grooming. Starting at eight weeks of age, your angora will need to be groomed at least once a week. When the rabbit is young, use a wide-toothed comb for grooming. When English angoras reach four or five months old you should start using a slicker brush and grooming twice a week. If grooming is done on a once or twice a week basis, it should take about fifteen minutes to groom your angora. A great source of English angora information, including details on grooming, can be found here: www.bettychuenglishangora.com. When grooming you rabbit, don’t forget to turn it over and check its belly and bottom for mats and debris that may have been caught in the wool. Grooming tools consist of a small and large pet grooming brush (wire-bristles), a small-tooth comb for combing out matts, a small pair of scissors for cutting out matts, and nail trimmers. If you are raising show rabbits, a blower is optional. Your rabbit will usually surrender peacefully to their grooming time if you make it a regular practice. HARVESTING Most angoras will naturally shed their coat 3-4 times a year, basically every 90 days. When you start seeing clumps of wool sticking to the cage or the rabbit dragging strings of wool behind it, then the wool is probably ready for harvest. It usually takes about 1-2 hours of grooming time per rabbit. You can hand harvest rabbits, which is gently pulling the loose fiber from the rabbit with your fingers. This does not hurt the rabbit because it is wool that the rabbit is shedding naturally, pretty much like a dog shedding its coat. Store the wool in between sheets of tissue paper inside of a sweater box or paper bag. If you are planning to sell the wool, make sure to lay the staples of wool parallel to each other in the same direction. It is important that the staples stay neat. If you are planning on spinning your bunny's wool, try to let it grow at least 3 inches long, 4 inches or more is better as long as the rabbit remains healthy. Groom the rabbit at least 2-3 times a week to keep it clean and tangle-free. WOOL BLOCK The natural self-grooming process for an Angora rabbit is the same as for a cat. They lick their coats to keep it clean. When their coats start to shed, they will most likely ingest any loose fibers. Unlike a cat, your rabbit will not be able to regurgitate the fiber from its stomach, and a large build up will clog its digestive system and intestines. When this happens your rabbit will stop eating its food and drinking water because it thinks it is already full. If left untreated, your rabbit will starve to death. The dying process is slow and painful - when the rabbit's stomach is full of wool, the rabbit cannot eat, and he starves to death. For short haired rabbits, hairballs are a problem, but not nearly as great of a problem as with Angora rabbits. For Angora rabbits, hairball, or woolblock, is the Number 1 killer. Many Angora rabbits die unnecessarily young. One sure sign of wool block, besides a loss of appetite, is when your rabbit's feces become very small and dry. The stool of a healthy rabbit is large, round, and moist. In extreme cases, defecation and urination will cease all together. Therefore, you should always pay close attention to how your rabbit is eliminating. Secondly, if your usually happy and playful bunny all of a sudden becomes lethargic and loses its appetite, it probably doesn't feel well. "Marble watching" : Droppings tell you the condition of the rabbit's health. Watching these marbles is another task for a conscientious breeder. If the droppings are round, moist, dark-brown and evenly large, the rabbit is in good health. If the droppings start to look like a "necklace", droppings being connected by strings of wool, you should pay more attention to the rabbit. If he is still eating the normal amount of feed and drinking normal amount of water, he probably is still healthy. If not, he may be blocked. If the droppings start to be of uneven size, some big and some small, irregularly shaped, with light color and a dry look, this is a sign of wool in the system. If the rabbit is not eating well, that provides further evidence he is blocked. If the rabbit stops eating, excretes few droppings, and these droppings look oily and gluey or totally dry, he may be near the end of the rope. What do you do if the rabbit is blocked? The first thing you should do when you suspect wool block is consult a veterinarian who specializes in rabbits. If that is not possible; First, remove all of the wool. Immediately take away your rabbit's pellets and feed it more hay. Also, adding a little pineapple juice to its water helps increase stomach enzymes. If that doesn't work give your bunny mineral oil, Canola oil or Coconut oil. It may also be wise to use a superstrength enzyme instead of the maintenance-oriented enzyme used weekly. One possible enzyme is called "Prozyme". Use the mixture of Prozyme with banana or Prozyme with Ensure to help add enzyme and nutrients to the rabbit. Use a syringe to administer the mixture into the rabbits mouth. At this time, since the rabbit probably has stopped eating, Ensure also helps to prevent dehydration. If one follows the above method closely, the rabbit usually comes out of the woolblock in about a week. If the blockage is too large to be pushed out, some veterinarians are able to surgically removed the woolball. Woolblock, however, is not totally reversible unless the woolball is removed by surgery. Once the rabbit is blocked, he is likely to become blocked again, because some of the woolball in the system cannot be totally forced out. Keep an eye on this rabbit to detect re-occurrences of the problem. In extreme cases, saving the life of your rabbit may mean consulting a veterinarian or using intravenous feeding. I hope you will never have to experience wool block with you rabbit. It can be scary but it can be reversed if detected soon enough. Keep a close eye on your rabbits. Health English Angoras make great pets and their enclosure can either be indoors or outdoors. The most worrisome health issue the English Angora rabbit faces is the potential for woolblock, which we just covered. Thankfully, there are ways of preventing wool block in your rabbit, diet being the most important. Make sure your rabbit’s diet is high in fiber and groom your rabbit regularly. Many breeders also supplement with pineapple chunks or papaya tablets once a week to prevent wool block. Regular grooming even during off-shedding periods are necessary to prevent woolblock with the English Angora rabbit. Weather: English Angoras as well as other rabbits, are susceptible to heat, drafts and wetness. In the winter time, make sure they are well protected from wind, rain and snow. In the summer time if the temperature is over 85F, put an ice bottle in the cage. An ice bottle is a two-liter soda pop bottle filled with water and frozen solid. When the temperature is over 92F rabbits can easily die from heat exhaustion if they are not cooled. Temperament/Behavior English Angoras are even-tempered rabbits who love to spend quality time with their human handlers. Because they require so much grooming, they will no doubt bond with the person who grooms them the most often, especially if it is the same person who feeds, pets and plays with them. Most English angoras have very nice temperaments, and will calmly let you groom them. They even lie quite still while you groom their bellies. They do not have the tendency to be skittish or ill-mannered, so introducing them to children won’t be difficult. While they don’t crave constant attention, their personalities flourish when they are mostly out and about and interacting with humans, which is why this is a great breed for both singles and couples who would like a pet in their lives. When they are having their daily outdoor time out of their enclosures, make sure to have a couple of toys handy so they can chew. Aside from wool block, some rabbits also develop overgrown teeth due to poor diet. Should you be feeding your rabbit a balanced diet of hay, pellets and vegetables, overgrown teeth should not be a problem but giving them something to chew on (like a dog toy) won’t hurt, plus it will keep them entertained. Some rabbits also like chewing on pieces of wood (some have been known to chew parts of their wooden enclosure), so giving them a piece of rabbit-safe wood to entertain them is also acceptable. These creatures are docile and sociable, so be sure to take them out of their enclosure to have plenty indoor or outdoor playtime. Should you live in an apartment or home with no fenced backyard, letting your rabbit roam free around the house will give them plenty of exercise, however they would also love to go outside and catch some rays and feel the grass beneath their feet. Clubs: For a new rabbit owner, the first club to join the American Rabbit Breeders Association (Eric Stewart, Executive Director of ARBA, P.O. Box 5667, Bloomington, Ill. 6l702, $20.00 per year). Membership fee includes four issues of Domestic Rabbits per year. In Domestic Rabbits, there is a show schedule which lists shows around the nation by state. For Angora owners, the next club to join is the National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club . In the first year, a new member receives a guide book and 4 issues of Angora News. With a renewal you receive 4 issues of Angora News. In order to receive "points" from shows attended, one has to be a member of NARBC. There is a lot of additional information available from Betty Chu: She is the breeder of the first Angora rabbit that won the Open Best in Show in the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeder Association) National Convention, and Betty Chu offers information on care, grooming, showing, color genetics and judging the English Angora. There will be a link to her website in the show notes. Due to the time, knowledge, love and discipline required to care for them, English Angora rabbits are not for everyone. It is necessary to understand that taking on the task of raising English Angoras is a long term commitment of feeding, watering, grooming, and prevention of woolblock. In return, English Angora rabbits will give you back love, affection, companionship and luxurious fiber for spinning. https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/english-angora-rabbit/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angora_rabbit https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/english-angora-rabbit/ http://www.joyofhandspinning.com/angora-care.shtml http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/english-angora-rabbit-breed-information/ http://bettychuenglishangora.angorarabbit.com/ http://bettychuenglishangora.angorarabbit.com/cares/index.html http://bettychuenglishangora.angorarabbit.com/grooming/index.html http://bettychuenglishangora.angorarabbit.com/showing/index.html http://bettychuenglishangora.angorarabbit.com/judging/index.html   Rabbit Vocabulary word is: Separated © Copyrighted

German Angora Rabbit Breed - How Rabbit got his long Ears - Mongrel Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.       ABOUT THE GERMAN ANGORA The German Angora Domestic rabbits originated in Europe. Our domestic angoras are mutations of the European wild rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus. German Angoras are English Angoras that have been selectively bred in Germany over the last 80 years with a focus on quality and quantity of wool. The German standard recognizes animals suitable for supplying the needs of a growing international commercial wool market. In Europe, this breed is just called Angora (bred according to German standards). The German Angora Rabbit is a friendly, long-haired rabbit that makes a great family pet. This breed is the one most often used in commercial Angora operations. They look very similar in appearance to the English Angora only much bigger, with very dense fur, facial furnishings (although less than the English), tufted ears and a round body. Their coat is fairly easy to maintain and tends to resist matting despite the huge amounts of fur. HISTORY During the 1920s, in Germany, Angora breeders wanted to improve the breed for commercial purposes. Nearly seventy years ago, angora breeders of the Zentralverband Deutches Kanichenzuchters (Z.D.K.), in partnership with the Federal Agriculture Research Center, embarked on a program to improve the wool production of their angoras. The philosophy was straight-forward. Goals for wool production and body type were set. They started with foundation stock similar to what we know as English angoras. Wool production increased steadily from a starting point of 250 grams (half pound) to a world record set in 1990 of 2,232 grams (over five pounds). Ten years later, a new record of over 2,800 grams was achieved. Tracking the progress of the program required the elimination of as many management variables as possible. The first testing stations were established in 1934 to provide controlled conditions for the evaluation of the angora breeding stock, data collection and research to improve husbandry techniques. In plotting their strategy for the improvement of the angora, breeders in Germany needed to clearly define body type, wool production and wool qualities in language as objective as possible. The standard for the angora in Germany is specific. The ideal body is described as being as wide at the shoulders as it is deep. The length of the body should equal three times the width. The shape of the body is tubular, resembling a loaf of bread. This body type is preferred for rapid shearing of first grade wool. Body weights run from seven to eleven and a half pounds (2.5 to 5 kilos) with an average of nine to ten pounds of very solid dual-purpose rabbit.   The wool must densely cover the entire rabbit and be silky, not cottony. German wool is heavily crimped. The ideal texture and length of the wool should be as even as possible over the entire body of the rabbit.   Development of the angora in Germany was started over 70 years ago. It remains an intensive and deliberate program based on objective data and the challenge to surpass current achievements. One would expect that an angora produced out of the German system and bred according to the German standard would satisfy predictable expectations for wool production and body type.   I.A.G.A.R.B. Several importations of angoras from Germany occurred during the 1980’s. With their impressive wool production, “German Angoras” cause quite a sensation in North America. A version of the German angora, which came to be known as the Giant, was submitted for acceptance with the A.R.B.A. In an article titled “Giant Angora – Not German Angora” published in the National Angora rabbit Club Newsletter in 1991, Louise Walsh, the presenter offered her description: “…The Giant angora is a larger rabbit than the German angora. During the developing years of the Giant angora, I mixed in colored short hair commercial bodied rabbits, French Lop and Flemish Giant.”   At that time, there were many other breeders who were not comfortable with these changes. Instead, they were committed to the preservation of the high production angora as it was developed in Germany. They felt that wool yields could best be improved by breeding to stock of similar origin and by following a proven system. Founded in 1987, the International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders accepted the Angora Standard of the Z.D.K. This breed is not recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, as it was deemed that it lacks distinct traits. Although it has a different quality of fur, German Angora is still quite similar to the English Angora in terms of body shape and overall appearance. Being quite popular in the USA and Canada, a separate American (or international, as they call themselves) accrediting organization was created, the International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders (IAGARB). At the 1990 I.A.G.A.R.B. Convention, members unanimously agreed that a German Angora was descended exclusively from imported angora breeding stock. The genetic inclusion by any foreign breeds, no matter how distant, would always be considered a dilution. Crosses with North American English or French angoras, while they are related varieties, were also considered a dilution. A fourth generation German cross, regardless of color, could be registered as a “German-Hybrid.”   In 2005 at the IAGARB Annual Meeting, an important step forward was taken. It was agreed that the system of defining a German Angora only in terms of pedigree was not effective. It had become confusing and easy to abuse. Rabbits were valued simply because they were descended from imported stock, not because they maintained the excellent qualities of their ancestors. Because our registration system was put in place in 2001, we had an alternative to the “definition by percentage” approach. As in Germany, we decided to let our registration testing work for us to identify the best angoras. The IAGARB utilizes a German Angora standard modeled after the German standard, which heavily favors the animal's wool production and quality of that wool:   Weight -- up to 20 points Body Type -- up to 20 points Wool Density and Length -- up to 15 points Wool Uniformity -- up to 15 points Wool Texture -- up to 15 points Furnishings -- up to 10 points Condition -- up to 5 points   Giant Angora Rabbit, which is nearly identical in appearance to the German Angora, other than size German Angora Rabbits weigh 2.0 - 5.5 kg (4.4 - 12 lb), with preference given to the larger animal. They come in REW most frequently, however solid colors (not brokens) have been accepted recently into the IAGARB standard. In order to register an animal with IAGARB, the German Angora must not only meet the standard for type, it must also pass 90 day wool production and quality tests. In Germany, the State has set up Angora Wool Stations, and these perform objective testing of German Angora wool quantity and quality. Without a doubt, the 90 day wooling tests resulted in the selection of breeding animals that produce way more wool than any of the other Angora breeds...   In 1920, angoras typically produced 200 grams of wool a year. By 1963, German Angoras were surpassing 1000 gm/year. By 1999, the 2000 gm/yr mark had been passed, again by German Angoras.   Another improvement:   In 1920, breeders had to comb out the wool every day in order to keep the rabbit mat-free.   Today, according to Walter Drecktrah of Sulingen, Germany:   "Any [German] Angora leaning toward matting is removed from the breeding program. Combing or brushing the animals between shearing is unheard of."   As a result of this process of selective breeding, German Angora breeders discovered and retained the non-molt gene.   Interestingly, today English breeders are discovering individual English angora rabbits with the same trait.   In Europe, the breed is Angora. In order to follow the German system as closely as possible, we have adopted the same approach to the breed Angora. We agreed to use our testing to sort out the most worthy breeding animals from all of the rest. Concerns were voiced that other types of angoras might be accepted into our registry than those out of exclusively imported lines. In response, the Standards Committee ruled that any hybrid angora that passed our registry tests, regardless of its percentage of imported background, would have an “H” added to its tattoo number. In the event that an angora with no imported lines in its background passed our tests, it would have an “N” added to its tattoo number. The Standards Committee felt that these designations would assist potential buyers in having a greater understanding of the backgrounds of registered rabbits. With these new polices in place, it was unanimously agreed that our registry could be opened to colored angoras. Unless offspring were descended directly from colored angoras imported from Germany, they and their albino littermates would continue to include an “H” at the end of their tattoo numbers. The IAGARB system of registry by merit has worked very well. By mid 2007, all of the rabbits that have passed our tests have been 100% out of imported lines with only 2 exceptions. Both of these rabbits were 98% Hybrids and demonstrated exceptional qualities. Since then, the Standards Committee recognized that individual performance testing alone is the best means of ensuring quality. The terms hybrid and crossbred proved too confusing to be useful and the “H” system was abandoned. As no angoras without some percentage of imported bloodlines ever passed testing, the “N” designation was never used. During discussions at the 2012 AGM, it was agreed that crossing to other angoras had merit as a means of broading the genetics available to us. In order to be IAGARB registered, an angora must score more than 80 points and its certified 90-day wool performance must meet or exceed 325 grams.   How are angoras regarded in Europe?In Europe the only recognized wool producing rabbit is the breed Angora. Variations are referred to by country or club such as “Angoras from Denmark” or “Angoras from the population in France.” An angora rabbit may have originated in Germany and have been bred according to the standard recognized in Germany, but the “German angora” is not considered a separate breed from other European angoras. In Great Britain, imported angoras are commonly referred to as “Continental angoras” in order to distinguish them from the local population. It is interesting to compare the style of the angora rabbits kept in England against the North American English angoras. The British born rabbit is longer in the body, not usually as heavily furnished and is allowed a higher percentage of guard hair than its North American cousin. The richness of wool color and the excellent texture of the British angora wool is similar to what, in North America, is associated with French angora wool. Likewise the North American French angora bears limited resemblance to the angora commonly raised in France. The angora of France, being part of the Continental European population, looks more like the rabbit known in North America as the German angora. European rabbit breeding associations take a different approach to classifying rabbits than what is practiced in North America. Rather than evaluating rabbit against rabbit, they set forth a standard against which each animal is judged. It is the French standard or the German standard or the Danish standard, etc. which influences the regional selection of individuals within the breed Angora. During judging, each angora is compared to the standard and awarded points according to its merit in meeting that standard. At the conclusion of judging, the points are added and the rabbits with the highest points are considered to be most like the ideal rabbit described in the standard. If none of the rabbits earn a minimum number of points, then there are no winners. Overall Description The German Angora Rabbit's coat is woolly, and when sheared, it can be spun into soft, luxurious yarn. Apart from their beautiful coats, the German Angora rabbits are best known for the interesting furnishings on their face and ears, commonly known as tassels. Their ears are upright and well-haired, with tufts of hair on the top. Considered to be large-sized, these rabbits can weigh from 5.5 lbs to 12 lbs. Their bodies are very symmetrical and of cylindrical shape, being at the same width and height, and of medium length. Coat All Angoras are treasured for their fluffy fur, but the German Angora Rabbit outperforms all of its relatives. Their hair is long, very fine and woolen. Even though Angora rabbits usually have high-maintenance fur, the German variety of the breed is popular for the effortless upkeep of the coat. Their woolly hair will not shed, as they have the non-molt gene. Their fur is extremely resistant to matting, and they don’t need to be brushed or groomed. However, every 3 months, these rabbits need to be sheared. Their wool can be spun into yarn, as their production is abundant and the quality of hair outstanding. Wool of German Angora Rabbits German Angora Rabbits and Giant Angoras (developed from Germans), are distinct in that they carry three separate wool fibers. The undercoat is heavy, finely crimped, silky, and needs to be suitably long. The awn fluff are intermediate fibers, longer than the undercoat, a bit crimped and always with a curved tip. The tip will curve itself even after shearing. The awn hair is also known as guard hair. It is stronger and straight, extending beyond the lengths of the other fibers. A good balance between these three fibers will result in correct wool texture. Furnishings are present, but not excessively. German angoras should not be ‘wool blind.’ Expect to find more furnishings on bucks than on does. The usual interval between shearings is 90 days. But German angoras require shearing by 4 months at the latest or matting does occur. This is because the wool, while it doesn't fully molt, does slip a bit, and this is what seems to create the mats. Despite the rigorous testing, weighing and measuring of German Angora wool by the IAGARB, some German angora guard hair fibers are quite coarse, measuring as high as 21-30 microns. This is as compared to merino wool, with an acceptable "high" of just 26 microns. Too high a coarseness may result in itchiness. The coarser fiber of the German angora may contribute to its heavier weight.   What this means: Breeders of German angora rabbits can improve their breed by: Continuing the process of selectively breeding for non-molting rabbits In non-molting rabbits, breeding for quality of fiber (not too coarse) Don't pursue total fiber weight to the detriment of the breed as a whole.       Colors   The German Angora Rabbit comes in all monochromatic colors, but the most common is REW or ruby-eyed white rabbit. In case of colored rabbits, the color of their coat is never uniform. Their undercoat is always lighter than the top of the fur, which appears in a more intense, vibrant hue. Markings or patterns of the coat are rare, as they are not allowed in breeding standards, and, as such, considered an undesirable trait.   The German Angora Rabbit’s coat is woolly, and when sheared, it can be spun into soft, luxurious yarn.   Care Requirements   Not unlike all long-haired rabbit breeds, the German Angora will require a little extra effort to stay healthy and happy. The most important care requirements of the breed are its diet and grooming needs.   When it comes to feeding German Angora rabbits, they’ll happily nibble on veggies, fruits, and rabbit pellets, same as any other bunny. But the majority of their diet needs to consist of hay. Roughage such as hay helps Angoras with the wool block, and it’s a problem that affects the German variety of the breed even more. As they produce a lot of wool, it’s only logical to assume that bigger amounts of the hair end up in their digestive system while they are grooming themselves.   These rabbits can be kept both indoors and outdoors, both, in both cases, their living environment must be safe and comfortable. If you’re planning on keeping a German Angora in your home, you’ll need an enclosure of appropriate size. Their crate should be large enough for them to be able to stand on their hind legs and freely walk around. The bottom should be padded with rabbit-friendly bedding and changed frequently to maintain the hygiene inside the enclosure. The requirements for outdoor enclosure are the same, except you’ll need to provide them protection from extreme temperatures and potential predators as well. The hutch should be at least 36x24x18 inches and have a tray under the wire floor to catch the urine and droppings, which will help prevent the rabbit's fur becoming dirty. Unlike other bunnies, the German Angora will hardly feel the wire floor since its feet are well-furnished with hair. The lifespan is 5 to 7 years.   Sweet-natured and affectionate, the German Angora rabbits will love playing with their owners. When you’re letting them to go outdoors, you’ll need to monitor them the whole time. Allow them to play only in fenced parts of your yards, where no other animal could harm them and where they can’t get lost. During their playtime indoors, make sure that no electric cables or valuables are lying around. Rabbits love to nibble on stuff, and there are a lot of thing in anyone’s home that could seriously harm the rabbit if they chew on them. Health   The German Angora Rabbit doesn't shed and has a mat-free coat. In general, the German Angora Rabbit is a healthy, sturdy breed. The only breed-specific issues that can arise can be prevented with good care and a grooming routine. As they have lush, fluffy coats, these rabbits often swallow a lot of their hair while grooming themselves. This can lead to wool block, as previously mentioned, often referred to as GI stasis. This is a serious, life-threatening condition, which is why it’s essential to catch it in its early stages. Unfortunately, this means you’ll have to pay close attention to your rabbit’s poop. If the rabbit is not brushed regularly, it will become terribly matted and can develop the wool-block. It is a condition when the bunny ingests the loose wool during regular self-grooming. The wool-block can result in the rabbit's death. The German Angora needs to be shaved in very warm weather and when it's bred. Constipation, small and dry poop, or the so-called “string of pearls” (poop connected by strands of hair) are the most common signs of GI stasis. As soon as you notice any of these symptoms, you need to take your bunny to the vet. A good way to prevent wool block is to feed a lot of roughage and shear your German Angora at least every 90 days. The hay is not only a good dietary choice for its benefits to the rabbit’s digestive system. Rabbit’s teeth grow throughout their lifetime, and chewing on hay helps grind them down. It’s a win-win choice!   Unless you’re planning on breeding your rabbits, getting them spayed or neutered is a choice worth considering. This routine procedure can have tremendous benefits on your rabbit’s health and personality (although the German Angora already has a lovely temperament!). Spaying or neutering your rabbit will minimize the risk of cancer and diseases that affect reproductive organs and eliminate their instinct to mark the territory with urine.   The German Angora Rabbit doesn’t shed and has a mat-free coat.   Temperament/Behavior   As a breed that depends on humans to survive, the German Angora is a friendly, docile rabbit. If socialized properly from young age, these rabbits make excellent pets. Because of their fluffy fur, they are accustomed to grooming and human touch, so they don’t mind being petted and enjoy spending time with their owners.   They are also very intelligent and love to play. With a little effort and patience, you can even train your German Angora Rabbit to come when called and use the litter box. They are not too active and energetic, and they’ll be content with napping in their comfy enclosure until the playtime comes. Since the German Angora Rabbit doesn’t shed and has a generally sociable temperament, it is a good choice for families with kids. They are not prone to biting or scratching, love cuddles and there is no risk of young children ingesting hair, like there is with shedding long-haired breeds. Of course, before you decide on a pet rabbit for your family, make sure to explain to your children how to properly play and cuddle with German Angora without hurting them. Like all Angora rabbits, the German Angora has a calm, relaxed, and placid personality. These traits have been selectively bred for centuries in order to groom the rabbit properly. Best fit for: rabbit owners serious about spinning, fiber arts or selling wool, who have space for this big bunny. The breed is not recommended for those who don't like to brush their pets.     YOUR CHOICE   Make an informed decision purchasing any angora rabbit. The integrity of the breeder is the first consideration. What is the genetic history and foundation of the stock in question? What level of wool production can you expect from them in exchange for your initial and daily investments of labor and feed? Can you expect them to breed true? Compare price to value. Estimate the anticipated wool to feed ratio. These questions can be answered favorably by reputable breeders provided full disclosure is made and the rabbits are suitable for your intended purpose.     http://iagarb.com/about-the-german-angora/ https://www.raising-rabbits.com/german-angora-rabbits.html https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/german-angora-rabbit/ https://www.thecapecoop.com/what-breed-angora-rabbit-is-right-for-you/ https://mysmelly.com/content/small_animals/german-angora.htm   HOW RABBIT GOT HIS LONG EARS http://www.lib.unb.ca/Texts/QWERTY/Qweb/qwerte/mic_mal/rabtxten.htm As Retold By Elder Margaret Labillois   A long time ago when Rabbit was first on this earth he had very short ears. One day he had nothing to do. He was very bored so he decided to play a trick on all the other animal's.   He told Beaver, "Did you know that the sun was not going to rise again?"   Of course Beaver told Squirrel and Squirrel told Chipmunk and Chipmunk told Skunk and so on. The story soon got around and all the animals were worried.   The animals were all upset. They said, "If the sun is not going to shine anymore it will be dark and cold like winter. We will have to gather our food and get ready right now."   Even Bear was worried. He began to eat and eat the blueberries around him so he could grow fat and store his food. Squirrel was busy gathering all the nuts he could find. Everyone was busy getting ready for the sun not to shine again. They had no time to play even though it was a nice summer day.   Now Rabbit really thought this was funny. He hide in the bushes. He was laughing and laughing as he watched the other animals all running around trying to get ready for the sun not to shine anymore.   Along came Glooscap. Normally the animals were all very glad to see Glooscap. They usually gathered around to talk to him. But this day no one run up to greet him. Glooscap asked Bear, "How are you? How is everything going?"   Bear said, "I don't have time to talk to you."   Glooscap just kept walking. No one paid any attention to him.   Glooscap went back to Bear.   "What's wrong with you? You're not talking to me. What is going on? Talk to me. Something is wrong!" Glooscap said.   "Well, don't you know?" Bear said. "The sun is not going to shine anymore and we have to hurry up. I have to get ready for winter now. That is what everyone is doing."   Glooscap told bear, "Whoever told you that story is lying. It's not true."   So Glooscap called a meeting with all the animals and they all gathered around him in a circle. He got to the bottom of it.   He said, "Who told you Bear?"   Bear said, "Raccoon told me."   And Raccoon said, "Well, Chipmunk told me."   Everyone said who they heard the story from, all the way down to Beaver.   Beaver said, "It was Rabbit that told me."   Glooscap said, "Well, where is Rabbit?"   Rabbit was really scared so he hid in the bushes. Glooscap knew for sure then that Rabbit had started the story.   "Where is Rabbit?" he asked again.   "Not here. He is gone. He must be hiding," Beaver said.   Glooscap went and looked in the bushes. He found Rabbit and when he did he grabbed him by his ears and lifted him up. That is how Rabbit got his long ears.     © Copyrighted

American Fuzzy Lop What is small fuzzy, floppy and cute all over? The American Fuzzy Lop, of course! With lots of personality wrapped in a fuzzy four-pound package, the “AFL” is gaining in popularity, especially among female rabbit fanciers. The American Fuzzy Lop is a sweet, energetic rabbit that is known to be great for show, fur and pet purposes. Their wooly coat is great to be shown off to the world and the American Fuzzy Lop is a favorite in competitions. For practical purposes, this rabbit’s fur can be spun and made into different kinds of clothes. Their curious, playful attitude makes them great pets for singles, seniors and families alike so long as they are given plenty of love, affection and a place to let their energy run free (a fenced yard would be more than sufficient). It is similar in appearance to a Holland Lop. However, the American Fuzzy Lop is a wool breed and will have wool similar to the Angora breeds although the wool will be shorter than that of a commercial Angora. The American fuzzy lop has to weigh up to 4 pounds in order to be shown. History The background of the American Fuzzy Lop is interwoven with the history of the Holland Lop. When first introduced, the Holland Lop rabbit was only available in solid colors, and some breeders wanted to add the broken pattern to the Holland Lop gene pool. To do this, they bred their Holland Lops to English Spots. While they achieved the goal of producing broken pattern rabbits, they failed to keep the rollback fur the Holland must have. The offspring instead had the flyback fur of the English Spot. The breeders then bred Holland Lops to French Angoras, a breed that has a very gentle rollback coat. The result of these manipulations was that the wool gene was also introduced into the Holland Lop gene pool and a Holland with long wool was occasionally found in Holland Lop litters. These were generally sold to people who were enchanted with a small wooled lop-eared rabbit. One opinion about the development of this breed is that ‘this is a genetic fault in the Holland Lop where occasionally a long haired Holland Lop results’. Another opinion is that ‘an occasional long haired Holland Lop is a result of much earlier breeding attempts between the Holland Lop and the Angora rabbit which has a very gentle rollback coat’. So, some Holland Lops could be carrying the necessary gene to produce long hair. Either way, the long haired Holland Lops were bred together for creating the American Fuzzy Lop rabbit. The pioneer American Fuzzy Lop breeders, including Patty Greene-Karl and Gary Fellers of the East Coast and Kim Landry and Margaret Miller of the West Coast, noted the marketability of these fuzzy Hollands. Patty Greene-Karl is credited with realizing that the "fuzzy" gene was recessive, so that mating two Holland Lops carrying this gene resulted in a certain percentage of the offspring (theoretically 25%) with wool. Patty decided to develop these rabbits as a new breed, named the American Fuzzy Lop. After working for four years on the development of Fuzzies, she presented her rabbits to the ARBA for the first showing of the new breed at the 1985 ARBA Convention in Houston, Texas. Three separate standards for wooled lops were received from three different individuals. The original standard called for a maximum weight of 4 ¾ lb with the ideal weight of 3 ¾ lb, a rabbit designed to have the body type, ear carriage, and size of a Holland Lop, combined with a short, easily maintained wool. At the 1986 ARBA Convention in Columbus, Ohio, the American Fuzzy Lop was presented for its second showing, and again passed. At its third showing at the 1987 ARBA Convention in Portland, Oregon, the ARBA Standards Committee did not approve the breed. They stated a lack of uniformity from one animal to another. A new working standard was written by Jeff Hardin at the request of Patty, which was accepted. The revised standard basically described a wooled Holland, calling for a maximum weight of 4 pounds, and an ideal weight of 3½ lb. In 1988, ARBA requested only the breed sponsor be allowed to bring her Fuzzy Lops to Convention in Madison, Wisconsin because of limited cage space. The American Fuzzy Lop had to pass that year to become a recognized breed or else its proponents would have to start the procedure all over again. Fortunately, Patty's presentation passed at this Convention, and the American Fuzzy Lop became a new recognized breed. In 1989 in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Helen McKie's "Herbie" was selected as the first Best of Breed (BOB) American Fuzzy Lop at an ARBA Convention. Herbie's picture graced the ARBA Standard of Perfection, 1991–95, representing Fuzzies well but only the American Fuzzy Lop presented by Patty was granted a working standard. Appearance and Personality The American Fuzzy Lop resembles the Holland Lop with the exception of its wool. The American Fuzzy Lop has a short, thick body. They have a broad chest, short shoulders and broad, deep, well-rounded hindquarters with plenty of muscles. Their fuzzy ears flop to the sides of their heads. The American Fuzzy Lop weighs 3-4 lbs. as an adult with a preferred weight of bucks at 3.5 lbs. and does at 3.75 lbs. or between 1.4 and 1.8 kg. They have a very compact body, that appears very muscular. They come in most of the recognized ARBA colors. The ears of the American Fuzzy Lop do not stand erect, but rather lop along the side of the face. They have a short and flat muzzle similar to that of a cat. Coat The American Fuzzy Lop rabbit fur can come in a variety of different colors. The American Fuzzy Lop’s coat is actually wool, as it can be spun into yarn despite being only about 2 inches in length. These rabbits are also known as “The Head of Fancy,” which lets you know how lovely their wool really is. American Fuzzy Lop wool is coarse, like that of an Angora rabbit – this means the coat will not be prone to tangling or matting. American Fuzzy Lops can be prone to matting around the tail area, mostly from sitting. Part of your grooming process should include trimming nails, brushing, and trimming the mats. A baby Fuzzy Lop will have what breeders call a “baby” coat from the age of 2-6 months, sometimes longer depending on some genetics. It is recommend grooming once per week with a flea comb, cutting away any large tangles carefully with scissors. When the senior coat comes in after the first molt, you will notice the difference. One breeders seniors are only groomed every 1-6 months (more often if they are being shown, left often if they are breeding stock.) It is recommend shaving a baby coat off (in the summertime) with electric clippers. This greatly reduces the time needed for grooming and the senior coat will come in sooner. Lots of breeders also breed out this baby coat because a breeder doesn’t want to spend hours combing it out. Colors The American Fuzzy Lop rabbit can come in a variety of different colors such as Agouti, which is a combination of any color with white (colors include Chestnut, Chinchilla, Lynx, Opal and Squirrel) and the Pointed White Group, which is a pure white body. However, all American Fuzzy Lops have distinctive markings on their nose, have eye circles and tinted ears. American Fuzzy Lop rabbits come in most of the recognized ARBA colors. They are revealed in two categories, derived from their color pattern. Their body color will have a nose marking, eye circles and tinted ears. The pointed white colored American Fuzzy Lop rabbit has a pure white color body, and they have markings of different colors, such as either black, blue, chocolate or lilac, and they have these markings on their ears, feet, nose and tail. There are presently nineteen accepted colors in the American Fuzzy Lop, although many other shades can be found in the rabbitry. If you want to purchase a show-quality animal, make sure it is an accepted color. Current Standards for showing Fuzzy Lops: Weight limit for juniors (under 6 months): 3 3/4lbs Weight limit for senior bucks and does: 4lbs. How it’s evened up (points) Head – 30 Body – 30 Ears – 10 Feet & Legs – 5 Fur Density – 8 Fur Texture – 5 Fur Length- 2 Color & Markings – 5 Condition – 5 Total – 100 A good Fuzzy Lop with good body type is to be short and close-coupled with well developed shoulders and hindquarters. It is supposed to be heavily muscled, smoothly rounded, well balanced with other body parts, AND within the weight limits. The rabbit should also have strong bone and thick stubby legs. The ideal head (keep in mind a super large head may not balance well with a smaller body) should have excellent width from the top down to the muzzle. The head should appear as an even and square block, and flat faces are an excellent sign of strong bone which is ideal. The head should be set up around medium height directly on the shoulder. No neck should be apparent. A good crown which is part of the head is best visible by looking at the ears. The ears should be short, thick and wide. If the ears have a fold in them down vertically in the middle, it means that the crown is pinching them and needs more width. Fuzzy Lops must carry their ears down (although some will hold them up when stressed, others hold them up all the time and are referred to having “air-plane” ears or poor ear carriage. The ears should balance with the body and may be longer, but the idea length is to be about 1/2 inch to 1 inch below the jawline. The ears should not have the long fur on them. Feet and legs should be straight. When holding the rabbit on it’s back and looking at the bottoms of the feet, the feet should be straight with the toes pointing upward towards the face. Feet with toes that point outward are a sign of pinched hindquarters. An ideal show coat (for a senior) should be slightly coarse, thick and even all over the body with guard hairs (with the exception of the ears.) Softer coats are expected in the juniors, they should be clean, unstained and free of knots. Length of wool should be at least 2 inches. It is a disqualification to have wool less then 1 1/2 inches in length. Recognized Varieties: The American fuzzy lop comes in many recognized varieties. They are broken down into groups as follows. Agouti group: chestnut, chinchilla, lynx, opal, and squirrel. Broken group: any recognized breed color broken with white. Pointed white group: pure white with black, blue, chocolate, or lilac points. Self group: black, blue, blue eyed white, chocolate, lilac, and ruby eyed white. Shaded group: sable point, Siamese sable, Siamese smoke pearl, tortoise shell, and blue tortoise shell. Wide band group: fawn and orange. Purchasing Your First Fuzzy: The first thing to consider is type. There are 75 points on type in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The body should be compact and cobby, with width equal to height at the shoulders, loin and hips. The spinal column is not to be prominent nor should the hip/pin bones stand out. The body must feel very smooth and well-muscled. As you slide your hands from the shoulders they should not catch on the hips. As you slide your hands down the hips to the feet they should not angle in. The head is to present the appearance of a round ball with a flat face. It is massive in appearance and set at mid-height and close to the shoulders. The Fuzzy should not appear to have a neck. Ears are to hang straight down, carried close to the cheeks and extending 1/2 to 1 inch below the jaw. They are covered in regular fur. Because of the inquisitive nature of American fuzzy lops, you should allow a show rabbit to relax before evaluating its ear carriage. The adult wool should be very dense, but not felting or 'angora' type wool. Guard hairs must be well distributed throughout, making it a very easy care coat for a wooled rabbit. The wool is to feel full of life without being excessively soft or silky. There is a minimum length of 1-1/2 inches, with a 2 inch length being preferred. The junior coat differs from the mature senior coat as it will have fewer guard hairs, making it softer and more angora-like. This softness may cause easy matting and will require more grooming to remain tangle free. By the age of six months this softer wool should be molted out and the senior texture should be displayed. A senior animal with a junior-type coat may be disqualified from competition. Things to Avoid: Narrow body, pinched or undercut hindquarters. Narrow head. Heavy wool side trimmings on head. Narrow ears, or ears with wool. Slipped crown. Wool on front feet is a disqualification. Thin wool. Soft and silky wool on seniors is a disqualification. Wool under 1 1/2 inches is a disqualification. Tips for getting a good showable Fuzzy Lop 1. As always check condition, if it is well groomed, kept clean and check to make sure it is free of disease (check ears, eyes, nose, genitals). 2. Fuzzy Lops are supposed to be under 4lbs. Look for one that is small and compact with good depth, not over weight or it maybe hard to keep it under that limit. Brood does are the only exception because larger does (while not extremely fat) produce larger litters and will often throw thicker bone. Look for a good head that balances with the body. The ears should be covered in fur and the feet should have thick pads of fur on them. Also check and make sure eye color match the color of the animal (eg. brown eyes for a black), and toenails for the color (eg. colored nails for a black). 3. The wool should be long (2 inches or more) and dense. It should be coarse, but babies under 6 months will have soft and get knotted easily. They will out grow this, and should be groomed as much as possible to keep the matting down. 4. Check out the pedigree, don’t ever get a show rabbit without a pedigree. Look at the line and check for inbreeding, or if it has the colors you would like to see if you want to breed. I breed mother to son and father to daughter alot, as well as many other breeders do, but I never breed a rabbit to another that has the same mother and father. This could can cause some defects and other health problems when it gets older. It’s best to stay away from that. Care Requirements Rabbits are clean animals when it comes to grooming themselves, and American Fuzzy Lops are no exception. These rabbits do not require daily grooming unless they are going through a molt. When this happens, simply run your fingers through their wool to work out any tangles and debris that may have gotten stuck in their coat. You may also use a pet-specific brush if you don’t want to use your fingers, but under no circumstances should you fully bathe your rabbit; this causes them far too much stress. If you find a stain on your Fuzzy Lop’s coat, you can “spot clean” it with a damp cloth. As with all other rabbits, their diet should consist of 70-80 percent hay and grass with the rest of their meal consisting of fresh fruits and vegetables. Make sure your rabbit’s enclosure is dung-free, clean, and always has fresh water at their disposal. If your rabbit’s enclosure is outdoors, always be wary of the temperatures and weather forecast, as these factors can be a potential danger to your furry animal. Whether your enclosure is indoors or out, it’s best to keep this little guy happy with plenty of free time outside their cage. American Fuzzy Lops are active rabbits who love to run and jump round while basking in the sunlight, so a fenced backyard is recommended. If you live in an area where winters are particularly harsh and your Fuzzy Lop is indoors, they will still benefit from having time outside of their enclosures playing with their toys and cozying up with their favorite human. Health The American Fuzzy Lop’s coat is actually wool, as it can be spun into yarn. The American Fuzzy Lop is not at risk for any particular disease, however because its fur is so wooly, owners should watch out for Wool Block. Rabbits groom themselves like cats by licking their fur, but while cats can regurgitate the fur out of their system, rabbits cannot. When they eat too much of their own fur, their bodies tell them that they are full, when in reality, they are starving. If left untreated, they can die, so it’s important for owners to be aware of when and how much their rabbits eat at all times. Some owners use a papaya enzyme tablets, as the enzymes are supposed to help break down the furballs (since rabbits can’t regurgitate) and therefore prevent blockage. Also keep an eye on your rabbit’s fingernail and teeth growth to make sure they are not overgrowing. A rabbit’s teeth grow at an incredible rate and usually, they are shaved down by their high-hay and grass diet. However, some rabbits’ teeth still tend to overgrow and if this seems to be the case with your rabbit, there are several ways you can go about reducing their teeth length including giving them some rabbit-friendly wood to chew and play with. Female rabbits can be spayed as early as 4 months of age; however vets like to wait until they are at least 6 months. This is because they older they are, the less risk there is of complications on the operating tables. Bucks can be neutered as young as 3 1/2 months old. Uses American Fuzzy Lop rabbit is a fancy rabbit breed. It is known as ‘The Head of the Fancy’. The breed slogan express the reason why the breed was developed. Today they are mainly raised as show rabbit and also very popular as pets. Although the breed has good course wool that is great for making in to yarn. Temperament/Behavior These rabbits love to play. Their energetic nature makes them ideal for families with younger children who have never had a pet before or for couples who want to take the next step in their relationship by caring for an adorable animal. Save for the initial purchases of their enclosures and the cost of the actual rabbit, they are relatively low-maintenance animals. They don’t require much grooming and simply need food, water and plenty of affection to keep them happy and healthy. Purchasing two rabbits instead of one may give both rabbits another year or two of life, as animals tend to live longer if they have some company to pass the time. However, this means their enclosure should be sufficient to hold two fully grown rabbits with plenty of space to spare. American Fuzzy Lop rabbits love to hang out indoors and hang out with their families on their own watch. With plenty of playtime and toys, your Fuzzy Lop will be a wonderful addition to a growing family. American Fuzzy Lops are an active, playful, social breed with lots of personality. They enjoy the attention of their owner, as well as the companionship of other rabbits. AFLs do enjoy having toys such as a plastic ball, pine cone, piece of soft wood, stuffed sock, or an old glove. Like many other lop rabbit breeds, they also love to be cuddled. Both does and bucks are sweet and they are considered to be a good first rabbit for beginners. The does can sometimes be a bit more shy and skittish. The does can especially be nervous with loud sound and fast movements. The average lifespan of an American Fuzzy Lop rabbit is about 5 to 8 years, but they can live longer in captivity, up to 10 years. You just want a pet? If you are just looking for a pet and you are interested in American Fuzzy Lops, they do make wonderful pets. Keep in mind they will require a bit additional grooming then a short haired lop. They have wonderful personalities and are very docile. Club Information The objectives of the AFL club are to encourage, promote and improve the breeding of American Fuzzy Lop rabbits by maintaining standards, encouraging exhibitions and offering services to its members. The American Fuzzy Lop Rabbit Club currently has nearly 550 members from all over the United States and several foreign countries. In addition to the national organization, there are also a number of regional specialty clubs. They have a Specialty Club page on their website you can view for additional details. AFLRC also has their own official group on FaceBook. Close The small size, inquisitive personality, and easy-care coat makes the AFL suitable for a pet, 4-H project, or show animal. The breed is recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, but it’s not recognized by the British Rabbit Council. Today the breed is raised mainly as a show animal and also as pets. Maybe you are interested in keeping this wonderful cute fuzzy breed for yourself! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Fuzzy_Lop https://aflrc.weebly.com/history-of-the-american-fuzzy-lop.html https://aflrc.weebly.com/ https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/american-fuzzy-lop/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/american-fuzzy-lop-rabbits https://www.roysfarm.com/american-fuzzy-lop-rabbit/ http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/american-fuzzy-lop-breed-information/ https://caringforpets.net/rabbits/american-fuzzy-lop-rabbit-origin-facts-and-colors/ http://ephiny.net/all-about-american-fuzzy-lops/ Vaginal Discharge in Rabbits Vaginal discharge is not a common or normal occurrence in rabbits, and is normally taken to be a sign of infection or illness. Vaginal discharge includes any substance that comes from the vulvar labia, or vaginal area, including fresh blood or blood tinged fluid. Vaginal discharge is almost always considered abnormal, except in cases where the rabbit is discharging postpartum fluids -- the fluids that leave the uterus after birth. Symptoms and Types The signs, symptoms and types of vaginal discharge vary from rabbit to rabbit and may vary according to the sexual status of the rabbit. Those that are sexually active are more at risk for vaginal discharge. Older rabbits are also more at risk. Common symptoms and signs include: Blood in the urine - although this is a misconception, since blood does not actually originate in the urinary tract but actually originates in the uterus Spotting, which is usually tinged with blood Discharge that may stick to the fur of the perineum or around the anus of the rabbit Enlarged uterus which may be easily felt on physical examination Enlarged mammary glands, either one or both Depression and lethargy Inability to eat or lack of interest in eating Nesting activities Increasing aggressive tendencies Pale mucous membranes Causes The causes for vaginal discharge may include: Uterine cancer, or adenocarcinoma, among the most common causes for vaginal discharge Other disorders of the endometrium or lining of the uterus, including tissue overgrowth Trauma to the vagina Urinary tract infection, which is unusual Vaginitis (inflammation of the vagina) Diagnosis To diagnose the condition, your veterinarian will gather a specimen sample of the urine to distinguish blood in the urine from blood expelled from the uterus. Other exams will include ruling out uterine adenocarcinoma (cancer). Ultrasound can be used to examine the uterus and surrounding reproductive organs, and radiography will help your veterinarian to detect any masses in the uterus and help measure the size of the uterus to determine if it is abnormal in any way. Pregnancy can also be ruled out during the course of these diagnostic checks. A culture will help rule out any bacteria infections, and will help assess the health of the vaginal flora – the collection of healthy bacteria, fungi, and microorganisms that normally live within the vaginal canal. An imbalance of the vaginal flora will be indicative of yeast overgrowth and other common fungal infections. Treatment Common treatments are typically aimed at treating the cause for the vaginal discharge. In cases of uterine adenocarcinoma, the internal reproductive organs may require complete removal, also known as a hysterectomy. Often, uterine disorders can increase the risk for hemorrhage in the uterus, which can be life-threatening. Blood transfusions are also sometimes necessary. To control bacterial infections, antibiotics may be used. However, they are recommended on a case-by-case basis, as they can sometimes prove fatal. Be sure to consult with a veterinarian before medicating your pet. Living and Management Complications associated with treatment may include blood infections, and adhesions or tissue growths in the abdomen. Some rabbits may also experience internal hemorrhaging. Overall, however, the prognosis is good for rabbits receiving an hysterectomy in a timely fashion. For this reason, prompt treatment is the best course of action if your rabbit is in the early stage of vaginal discharge. Be sure to seek prompt care and follow up care for the best possible outcome. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/reproductive/c_rb_vaginal_discharge WITCH AND HARE 1 AN old witch, in days of yore, lived in this neighborhood; and whenever she wanted money she would assume the shape of a hare, and would send out her grandson to tell a certain huntsman who lived hard by that he had seen a hare sitting at such a particular spot, for which he always received the reward of sixpence. After this deception had many times been practiced, the dogs turned out, the hare pursued, often seen but never caught, a sportsman of the party began to suspect, in the language of the tradition, "that the devil was in the dance," and there would be no end to it. The matter was discussed, a justice consulted, and a clergyman to boot; and it was thought that, however clever the devil might be, law and church combined would be more than a match for him. It was therefore agreed that, as the boy was singularly regular in the hour at which he came to announce the sight of the hare, all should be in readiness for a start the instant such information was given: and a neighbor of the witch, nothing friendly to her, promised to let the parties know directly the old woman and her grandson left the cottage and went off together; the one to be hunted, and the other to set on the hunt. The news came, the hounds were un-kenneled, and huntsmen and sportsmen set off with surprising speed. The witch, now a hare, and her little colleague in iniquity, did not expect so very speedy a turn out; so that the game was pursued at a desperate rate, and the boy, forgetting himself in a moment of alarm, was heard to exclaim: "Run, Granny, run; run for your life!" At last the pursuers lost the hare, and she once more got safe into the cottage by a little hole in the door; not large enough to admit a hound in chase. The huntsman and all the squires with their train lent a hand to break open the door, yet could not do it till the parson and the justice came up; but as law and church were certainly designed to break through iniquity, even so did they now succeed in bursting the magic bonds that opposed them. Upstairs they all went. There they found the old hag bleeding, and covered with wounds, and still out of breath. She denied she was a hare, and railed at the whole party. "Call up the hounds," said the huntsman, "and let us see what they take her to be; maybe we may yet have another hunt." On hearing this the old woman cried quarter. The boy dropped on his knees, and begged hard for mercy, which was granted on condition of its being received together with a good whipping; and the huntsman, having long practiced among the hounds, now tried his hand on other game. Thus the old woman escaped a worse fate for the time present; but on being afterwards put on her trial for bewitching a young woman and making her spit pins, the tale just told was given as evidence against her, before a particularly learned judge, and a remarkably sagacious jury, and the old woman finished her days, like a martyr, at the stake. http://www.sacred-texts.com/neu/eng/efft/efft51.htm   © Copyrighted

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   Easter is a season that has popularized the purchase of rabbits as surprise "Easter bunnies" for young people Easter morning. Please remember to learn about how to care for a rabbit prior to purchase and that rabbits are a 5-10 year commitment. Chinchilla rabbit These rabbits are so named “chinchilla” due to the similarity of their striking fur to that of the South American Chinchilla. That particular animal is a rodent and it’s fur has been much sought after the fur trade. The development of a rabbit with similar fur quickly made these rabbits highly sought after. Rabbits are a lagomorph and in a different order than that of the rodents and should not be confused with them. Domesticated Chinchilla rabbits have a fur pattern that mimics that of their wild cousins. The 4 types discussed in this podcast have the same type of banding to the hair shaft or ticking that is called the Agouti pattern. However the main difference is that of the color. Wild rabbits and hares have a brown and yellow pigment to their fur where as the chinchilla breeds and varieties have a slate blue (gray) and pearl (white) coloration. The banding to the hair shaft is: blue, pearl, black, white, black. This gives the rabbit it’s distinctive look and the colors or bands can be seen by blowing into the fur. Each of these Chinchilla rabbits have a distinguished history of uniqueness and accomplishment. These breeds are the Standard Chinchilla, the American Chinchilla, Chinchilla Giganta, and the Giant Chinchilla. Today there are four separate breeds of Chinchilla rabbits, distinguished primarily by size, for they all have the same black tipped fur with the silvery pearl glint. A Brief History of Each of the Chinchilla Rabbit Breeds: Standard Chinchilla Somewhere in the fog-shrouded past of French bunny-history a kit was born to wild agouti colored rabbits, but it was missing half its color. In every other way it looked exactly like its littermates - lush, black and white-tipped fur, but instead of the rufus red or tan sheen underneath the dark tipping that gives chestnut agoutis their wild-rabbit coloring, a silvery pearl glint glowed within the fur of this strange but fascinating young rabbit. And the French farmer in whose hutch this beautiful rabbit was born was suddenly had a new breed. We don't know his name, but we do know that chinchilla-colored rabbits flew out of the hands of Le Bonhomme Chinchilla, his nickname on the quays of the Marche aux Oiseaux in Paris where he hawked his rabbits. Parisians were enchanted with these exotic rabbits whose coats were very nearly identical to the color of South American chinchillas. The ‘official’ Chinchilla breed history lists Monsieur Dybowski, a French engineer and rabbit breeder, as the creator of the Chinchilla rabbit. Without a doubt, chinchilla fur color predated Monsieur Dybowski, who apparently was the driving force behind the development of the Chinchilla breed as it is known in France today. The first Chinchillas were created by a French engineer M.J. Dybowski and were shown for the first time in April 1913 at Saint-Maur, France. Mr. Dybowski put together a blue Beveren doe with a chestnut agouti buck - a local French farm rabbit of no particular bloodline - and voila, he got a chinchilla-colored rabbit. The quality of the fur on these first chinchillas was poor, so various breeds were introduced to improve the density and pearl-white ring color under the jet-black tipping. 1913 was when chinchillas were first shown in France, and in 1914, Mr. Dybowski’s chins took top honors at the national show. The new breed took the rabbit world by storm as the ideal fur rabbit, which so greatly resembled the South American Chinchilla lanigera. A Mrs. Haidee Lacy-Hulbert of Mitcham Surrey, imported the first of the breed to England in the summer of 1917. A British exhibitor presented a shipment at the New York State Fair in 1919. The first and smallest of the chinchilla breeds is the Standard Chinchilla. The Standard Chinchilla rabbit was first bred in France. It was created by M. J. Dybowski, a French engineer. He used Himalayans, Beverens, and wild Agouti colored rabbits to develop the breed. They were first debuted for exhibition in Saint-Maur France in 1913. The very next year they were shown at a major international rabbit show in Paris, France. From there popularity grew as they attracted attention from other breeders. In 1917, a Mrs. Haidee Lacy-Hulbert imported them to Mitcham, Surrey (UK). They were next exhibited in 1919 in Yorkshire, England. That was also the same year they were first seen in the United States. Other varieties used to further develop and perfect the Standard Chinchilla were: the Marten Sable, Siamese Sable, Silver Fox, and the Squirrel and Smoke Pearl. It is thanks to the Standard Chinchilla and sports from the creation of the Chinchilla breeds that have gone on to be used in the creation of more breeds of rabbits than any other! After the show, he sold all the stock to Edward H. Stahl and Jack Harris. The original Chinchillas were rather small at 5 to 7 1/2 pounds, and American breeders set out to produce a larger animal that would be better suited for meat and pelts. Standard Chinchillas weigh up to 7 ½ pounds in the USA. Maximum adult weight in the UK is 6.73 lb (3.060 kg). They are a medium-small breed. ***The Standard Chinchilla is the smallest of the Chinchilla breeds. Mature bucks should weigh 5-7 pounds. Mature does should weigh 5 ½ to 7 ½ pounds. The Standard Chinchilla is considered a compact breed. American Chinchilla Leave it to Americans to not be satisfied with the smallish size of the standard chinchilla. They bred selectively for larger size and finer meat. The American Chinchilla is the most rare of the Chinchilla breeds. Its small population is largely due to the demise of the rabbit fur industry of the late 1940’s. Despite the breed’s fine meat producing qualities, producers of today prefer an all white rabbit for the meat market. The American Chinchilla is a large, hardy and gentle animal, with mature bucks weighing in at 9 to 11 pounds and does at 10 to 12 pounds. They produce large litters, have good mothering instincts, and fryers reach market weight quickly. At the New York State Fair in 1919, all Standard Chinchilla stock exhibited was purchased by Edward H. Stahl and Jack Harris. It was known that these rabbits would be very popular and lucrative for the fur trade. These gentlemen and many others set about to create an even larger rabbit from the Standard Chinchilla. This larger rabbit was first known as the Heavyweight Chinchilla. It was created directly through selectively breeding the Standard Chinchillas for larger size. Both the Standard and Heavyweight Chinchillas were accepted as breeds in 1924. Shortly thereafter the Heavyweight name was changed to the American Chinchilla. The name was soon changed to American Chinchilla – possibly because a giant version of the breed was already in development. Two decades after the “Belgian Hare Boom” of 1900, which kicked off the rabbit fancy in this country, the chinchillas were by far the most popular breeds. Between November 1928 and November 1929, no less than 17,328 Chinchillas were registered through the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association (American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc.) This is a record yet to be broken by any other breed of rabbit. Large commercial operations were set up to produce and sell the rabbits in mass. In the 1940’s, however, the bottom fell out of the fur market. Because there were so many breeders, there is no single person that can be credited with the development of the American Chinchilla, though the breed can be credited with making a large impact with rabbit keepers and other rabbit breeds. The Chinchilla rabbit has contributed to the development of more breeds and varieties of rabbit worldwide than any other breed of domestic rabbit. Sports from the Chinchilla have created the Silver Martens and American Sables in the United States, and the Siamese Sable and Sallander breeds abroad. The American Chinchilla is now listed as critically endangered by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC). ***The American Chinchilla is a large breed of rabbit. Mature bucks should weigh 9-11 pounds and does 10-12 pounds respectively. The American Chinchilla is to be of the commercial body type. The American Chinchilla or "Heavyweight Chinchilla" is larger than the Standard Chinchilla, it has a commercial body type but the same roll back coat. Standard Chinchillas bred for large size produced this breed. Chinchilla Rabbits originated in France and were bred to standard by M. J. Dybowski. They were introduced to the United States in 1919. Bred to be a meat and fur rabbit, the American Chinchilla Rabbit can be shown/exhibited or kept as a stocky, hardy pet. American Chinchilla Rabbits do not require regular grooming. Adult American Chinchilla Rabbits weigh different for each sex. Males (Bucks)- 9-11#, and Females (Does) 10-12#. These stocky rabbits have a slight curve to their medium length bodies, beginning at the nape of their necks and following through to the rump. They carry their ears straight erect. The quality of the pelt is first and more important when breeding for the "Standard Of Perfection". American Chinchilla Rabbits are a six-class breed in show. (Any rabbit that matures over 9 pounds is a 6-class breed, maturation weights under 9# are 4-class breeds.) The American Chinchilla Rabbit was bred from large Standard Chinchilla Rabbits in order to produce a meatier rabbit. They were originally called Heavyweight Chinchilla Rabbits. Junior and intermediate American Chinchilla Rabbits may be shown in age classifications higher than their own if they are overweight. Bucks and does under six months and nine pounds are considered juniors. Intermediate American Chinchilla Rabbits are bucks and does six to eight months of age. American Chinchilla Rabbits are good breeders, with an average litter of 6-9 kits. Chinchilla Giganta Development of the Chinchilla Giganta began in 1917 in England, and refinement continued in Germany and Europe. Chinchilla Rabbits were interbred with Flemish Giants and other European giant breeds. They were recognized as a breed in France by 1948. It is suspected that Chinchilla Gigantas are significantly larger than the Giant Chinchillas of the USA but identical in every other way. Giant Chinchilla Standard Chins had no sooner arrived in America, than folks began working to create a giant version. Mr. Ed Stahl was instrumental in this effort. The Standard Chinchilla was crossed mainly with White Flemish Giants and American Blues, with a touch of New Zealand Whites and Champagne d’Argents. Giant Chinchillas were recognized by the ARBA in 1928. Today the Giant Chinchilla is heavy boned and long bodied, with commercial value being a prime consideration. Their maximum weight is listed as 16 pounds (does). Giant Chinchillas are included on the "Watch" list of the ALBC, as their numbers have been dwindling. It was during this same time period that Edward H. Stahl set about to produce the largest of the Chinchillas for the fur industry, The Giant Chinchilla. Like the American Chinchilla, the Giant Chinchilla is a breed that was developed exclusively in America. It was developed for the popular meat and fur industries of the era. According to The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy: “…In the basement of his home he began experimental breeding using a pure Chinchilla buck of large size, and with perfect color, to does of New Zealand Whites and several other large breeds. The offspring from the cross with the White Flemish and the American Blue does had reasonably good coloration with progress toward a larger size, and were used for continued selection. On Christmas morning, 1921, a Giant Chinchilla doe was born that he considered his ideal. He named her the “Million Dollar Princess.” A proposed working standard was presented for the American Chinchilla Giant in 1924, but was withdrawn in favor of the American Chinchilla (Heavyweight Chinchilla). At the demand of breeders of these giants, the standard was again proposed in February 1928, and this time the standard was accepted for the Giant Chinchilla. It should be noted that Edward H. Stahl, is the first and only individual to ever make a million dollars from the sale of rabbit breeding stock and is considered the “Father of the Domestic Rabbit Industry in America.” ***The Giant Chinchilla is the largest of the Chinchilla breeds. Mature bucks should weigh 12-15 pounds and does 13-16 pounds respectively. The Giant Chinchilla is to have a semi-arched body type. The Giant Chinchilla is one of the few really unique breeds of rabbits. It is the only breed that calls for a moderately long body type and the only Chinchilla breed or variety that has a normal commercial fur (fly-back). It is the only giant breed that is judged primarily for its commercial value and qualities as a five pound fryer at two months of age is not uncommon. The Giant Chinchilla is one of the best, if not one of the greatest, all purpose rabbit breeds raised in the United States. The Giant Chinchilla is a very beautiful rabbit when it is in prime coat and has good color. If the Giant Chinchilla is handled frequently it becomes a very big baby. The Giant Chinchilla is one of the first breeds to have been developed in the United States. Now I have a letter written by Carl W. Filliater Mr. Carl Filliater, served as the Giamt Chincilla club president for many years. He passed away in the Spring of 2015, and he is greatly missed. There are many articles by him in the Table of Contents at http://www.giantchinchillarabbit.com/mr-carl-filliater.html to help you learn about the Giant Chinchilla rabbit. The following information was obtained by talking with older members of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, most of them Judges, from back in the early 1940’s , with a couple back in the late 30’s, what I have read in a book copyrighted in 1926 and Second Edition Revised in 1929, authored by none other than Mr. Edward H. Stahl, the developer of the GIANT CHINCHILLA. The name of the book is CHINCHILLA RABBITS-Standard, Heavyweight, and Giant,-The Fur Rabbit De Lux. I also now have almost every standard from 1929 through 2015. What I don’t have I could get through Eric Stewart. Over the years we have been led to believe that the “Million Dollar Princess” was a large rabbit weighing in at 14 ¾ pounds when she was about (I am guessing here) 10 to 11 months old. Yet Mr. Stahl’s history of the Giant Chinchilla, under the “WHAT SIZE IS WANTED” section states “For an ideal meat producing rabbit, we do not want one that is too large. It is proven fact that the rabbits that weigh from nine to eleven pounds at maturity have generally been accepted as the ideal meat producing rabbit. Therefore, it would be advisable to make the Chinchilla Giant not over eleven pounds, and to disqualify them when they reach over twelve pounds.” That is an accepted fact to this day. Check the weights of the so called Commercial Breeds in our present Standard of Perfection. When I first started raising Giant Chinchillas, around 1968-69, and showed them for the first time a young popular Judge stated; “Why are you messing with these? The whole breed is nothing but junk. I have never seen one that came close to the Standard. And unless someone works a long time with them I probably never will see a good one. You have some good animals in the other two breeds you show, don’t bother with these.” At that time I did have some of the best Tort Dutch and was the first Tort breeder in several hundred miles area to have a Tort Dutch junior buck to go Best Opposite Sex of breed. I sold him at that show for an outrageous price. He later was Best Of Breed a couple of times. After that my Torts went to pot. I also showed Checked Giants and did some winning with some tough competition. But the die had been cast, that Judge presented me a CHALLENGE, and I am still working to raise a Giant Chinchilla that comes as close as possible to the Standard of Perfection. I have had a lot of hurdles to cross to get to where I am at now. Still a long way to go, but with each breeding I can see a great improvement. I have not yet seen a Giant Chinchilla worthy of a Best In Show, PER THE STANDARD OF PERFECTION. I capitalized, as there has been a couple that were picked as Best in Show. This goes to show that the Judges don’t really judge according to the Giant Chinchilla Standard. It is up to the Giant Chinchilla Breeders to educate the Judges. As a Licensed Judge I CAN NOT voice my opinion, unless the Judge ask for my opinion of their judging, then I can let them have it. As several Judges found out I am not afraid to unload on them. Made them a little better Giant Chinchilla Judges. By talking with the older members of the American Rabbit Breeders Association I found, up to the early to middle 1940’s the Giant Chinchilla was a very outstanding rabbit, winning Best in Show many times or being right up there in contention. It was about that time that other members of the Chinchilla Giant Association took control and tried to make it the large rabbit of the Flemish size. Instead of breeding the rabbit to fit the Standard, they changed the Standard to fit the rabbit. Breeding Light Gray Flemish Giants into the Giant Chinchilla. A well know Flemish Breeder from New York, stated he had sold several Light Gray Flemish Bucks and Does to an officer of the Giant Chinchilla Association. There were other breeders doing the same. And that is when the Giant Chinchilla started to lose its standing in the rabbit world. By breeding the Light Grays into the Chins, the weight had to be raised for the 1944 Standard from Does being 11 pounds to 11 pounds and up; Bucks was raised to10 ½ pounds and up and it changed the fur from a FLYBACK to a ROLLBACK TYPE, but they did not change the standard. At about that time is when the length and surface color started to change. The surface color went from a wavy color to a salt and pepper color ( or an even ticking over the whole body), which is what the Light Gray Flemish requires. It was left at one inch long which was still a FLYBACK length. In the 1947 Standard the weights were raised to-Does 12 pounds and up, with Bucks 11 pounds and up. No top weight. At the same time Heavyweight Chinchillas were raising their weights also. The length of fur was left at one inch. The 1950 Standard was changed to what it basically is today. The note “This breed is to be judged primarily for its commercial value, its meat production qualities to be given first consideration”, was added. The weights were raised; Minimum weight of Senior Does, 13 pounds, top weight of 16 pounds. Minimum weight of Senior Bucks, 12 pounds, top weight of 15 pounds. Ideal weights: Does 14 to 15 pounds; Bucks 13 to 14 pounds. Some additional DQ’s were added, such as extremely short or long body. The long body coming from the Flemish Giants. Length of fur was changed to1 1/8 inches, with the statement “Fur Structure, Quality, and condition to conform with the A.R.& C.B.A., Inc., Fur Standard. This statement says it must be a Flyback Type fur, but with the extra 1/8 of an inch, starts it into a RollBack Type fur. At This Point I Would Like to Say (Bite My Tongue) There Very Possibly Has Not Been A Good Pure Breed Giant Chinchilla Sold Since 1944. Breeders have been breeding other breeds into the SO Called Giant Chinchillas trying to get the fur shorter and with Flyback and the wavy color back. MYSELF INCLUDED. That is why breeders are still getting whites in the litters. White under-color next to the skin, which is a DQ, and a white toenail, every once in a while. In the 1956 Standard the weights were left as was, but the length of the fur was changed to 1 1/8 to 1 ¼ inches. With the statement changed to read “The fur should conform with the A.R.B.A., Inc., Fur Standard. Here again the last statement calls for a Flyback Type Fur, but the length makes it a Rollback Type of fur. In the 1966 Standard, salt and pepper appearance (even ticking) was added as a FAULT. And the following were added as DQ’s-brown or yellowish under-color; dirty brown tinge in the light ring color; yellow nape in the neck. The fault and DQ’s came from the Light Gray Flemish Giants that had some Sandy Flemish Giants bred into them. To this day Giant Chinchilla breeders are having problems with the salt and pepper appearance, surface color. In the early 1970’s the American Rabbit Breeders Association advised all Specialty Clubs to put their Standards into a certain format, which is being used to this day in the Standard of Perfection. Then Giant Chinchilla President Al Butler appointed me to do the deed and have it ready for the 1975 edition of the Standard of Perfection. It had to be presented to the members of the Specialty Club, with their approval, before being sent on to the Standards Committee Chairperson. After many phone calls with Al and Charles Meyers, than Chair of the Standards Committee, it was presented to the membership. The only change that was made to the Standard was “Body to be medium length….” This was suggested by the Standards Committee with the suggestion “If the Association didn’t make the change, the Committee would “. When I was changing the format, with the suggestions of Mr. Meyer, we tried to get the membership to make a few changes to the Standard. But no deal. In the late 1970’s I had a nice Giant Chinchilla Doe, at that time as far as I knew she was pure Giant Chinchilla. I showed her and won Best of Breed as a Giant Chinchilla. On a dare from a couple of Flemish Giant Breeders I also entered her as a Light Gray Flemish Giant in the same show. As it turned out the same Judge judged both breeds. When he placed her first in the class of several Light Grays, and then made her Best Light Gray, he made the statement “This is the first I have ever seen a rabbit win in two different breeds. To do that, one of the Standards is messed up.” Since that show I have made it my mission to get the Standard of the Giant Chinchilla changed so that it is the only breed fitting our Standard. I have gotten the Association to make a few changes and there is one more I hope to get made. There are several well known Giant Chinchilla Breeders who keep saying “Let’s Keep the Giant Chinchilla as Mr. Stahl made it, do not make these changes.” I hope with this article, and others published in this Guide Book, they will see that the wrong changes were made a good many years ago. And as I have said elsewhere in this article “Changes have been made to make the Standard fit the rabbit instead of making the Breeders breed the Rabbit to fit the Standard.” Respectfully Submitted; Carl W. Filliater Coat Chinchilla Rabbits have a soft, short, rollback coat which does not need much maintenance in order to keep it healthy. Most rabbits shed during the fall and spring, which means you may find more hair indoors than you usually do. Simply brush your rabbit once biweekly for a few weeks until they cease shedding so much. Colors There is only one color accepted by the ARBA with the Chinchilla rabbit, and that’s the color of an actual chinchilla. ARBA’s Standard of Perfection for this breed contains the phrase: “color is to resemble real chinchilla.” What does that mean? The color is to look just like that of those cute little rodents you see in exotic pet stores, the Chinchilla lanigera. That is, a rich, varied, sparkling blend of black and white. The under color is dark slate blue at the base and the top edge is a darker blue with a portion of light gray in between. The slight eye circles are well defined and of a light pearl color and the underside of the tail is also white while the topside is mostly black with a few white hairs. Eye colors can be brown, blue-grey or marbled, but dark brown is preferred. The color is produced by a banded hair shaft – each hair has bands of black and pearl-gray pigment. At a show, judges are supposed to consider the color quality of each band, as well as their definition from each other, and the overall look of the top coat. The American Chinchilla’s coat is a lengthy rollback – an ideal length of 1 ¼ inches. Coats under 1 inch in length are faulted, as well as coats that are so long they resemble wool. Fur is to be smooth and glossy. Fur and color together pack more points in the standard than the body type, which is to be the same as other commercial breeds such as the Californian. Petting your American Chinchilla Rabbit’s head, neck, back and ears is very much encouraged. Care Requirements The Chinchilla Rabbit does well in indoor or outdoor enclosures so long as they are not exposed to extreme heat or cold. Outdoor enclosures should be lifted from the ground to protect them from potential predators and have a ramp to the fenced bottom so they can hop about on the grass below. Indoors rabbit cages need to be large enough so the rabbit can easily stretch out and considering the Chinchilla’s size, it needs to be rather large, which is why this breed isn’t recommended for apartment dwellers. Enclosures should be made of wire walls and a plastic/metal bottom to hold bedding, which needs to be spot-cleaned every day and completely replaced at the end of every week. In terms of food, the Chinchilla’s diet does not differ from that of other rabbits. This means they need to have a diet of hay and a healthy mix of high-quality pellets, fruits, leafy greens and vegetables. There are some fruits/vegetables/leafy greens that are better in terms of nutritional value to rabbits and others that should be avoided at all costs. Apples are a great treat, for example, but iceberg lettuce does not contain enough nutrition to be beneficial to your rabbit’s health. Always do your research on what you plan to feed to your rabbit and when in doubt, call and ask your local veterinarian. Health While some rabbits have health issues related to their fur, the Chinchilla Rabbit has no such problem or any other hereditary disease. However, there are some issues pet rabbit parents need to be made of aware of so they can prevent these health problems from developing in the first place. Rabbit teeth never stop growing and the only thing that keeps their teeth a manageable size is a diet high in hay – this is why a high percent of hay in the diet is crucial. Overgrown rabbit teeth can grow into their jaws and face, and is painful. If you find less droppings in your rabbit’s cage, they are less active than usual, and aren’t eating as much, check their mouth for overgrown teeth. To deal with overgrown teeth, take them to your veterinarian for a trimming. Owners also need to check their bunny’s ears for any sign of ear mites, and outdoor rabbits need to be carefully checked for any sign of flystrike, which is an extremely painful condition that is mostly fatal. Bucks and does can also be neutered/spayed, just like dogs and cats. Bucks can be spayed as young as 3.5 months, while does can be spayed once they are 5-6 months old. Temperament/Behavior This breed of rabbit was developed mostly for their pelt and meat in the 1900s, consequently they are very much at ease being handled by humans. This means they also make great pets for single, couples or even seniors who would like a pet the size of a medium-sized dog but has less maintenance involved. Rabbits can be difficult to potty-train, but it does not mean it is impossible. In fact, many pet rabbit owners have found success with plenty of time, patience and lots of rewards. Some have gone the extra mile by placing a few litter boxes in corners of their home (instead of having just one) so their rabbit does not have to travel too far to find a litter box to do the deed. They may take longer than the average dog or cat, but rabbits are intelligent enough to understand when they are supposed to do their business in a particular area. In terms of playtime, every rabbit takes to toys a little differently – some may be perfectly content with home-made DIY toys while others may enjoy more mentally-stimulating toys from your local pet store or dollar store. Whatever it is, always make sure it is bunny-safe and won’t break apart into pieces your rabbit can accidentally swallow and hurt itself internally. Having said that, your rabbit’s personality will flourish the longer they are outside of their enclosures engaging and interacting with their human family. Petting their heads, necks, backs and ears is completely acceptable and very much encouraged. Many rabbits also enjoy having all of this done while in the comfort of your lap, just like lap dogs (but with less drool!) Uses Chinchilla rabbit was mainly bred to be a meat and fur producing breed. But today it is mainly kept for meat production rather than fur, due to the demise of the rabbit fur industry during the late 1940s. The breed is very suitable for commercial rabbit farming. Special Notes Chinchillas are very hardy, docile, good natured and very gentle rabbit breed. They are good breeders, with an average litter of 6-9 kits. The does produce large litters and have good mothering instincts. The bunnies grow faster and reach market weight quickly. The Chinchilla rabbit has contributed to the development of more breeds and varieties of rabbit worldwide than any other breed of domestic rabbit. It is a very suitable breed for commercial meat production. And their meat to bone ratio is very good. On average American Chinchilla rabbit’s lifespan is between 5 and 8 years. The breed is also very good as pets. Even the novice can take good care of them, and they do not require regular grooming. http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/american-chinchilla-rabbit/ https://www.raising-rabbits.com/chinchilla-rabbits.html http://rabbitbreeders.us/american-chinchilla-rabbits https://livestockconservancy.org/index.php/heritage/internal/americanchinchilla http://www.raising-rabbits.com/chinchilla-rabbits.html http://exclusivelyrabbits.blogspot.com/2011/10/brief-history-of-each-of-chinchilla.html http://www.roysfarm.com/american-chinchilla-rabbit/ http://chinchilla.co/chinchilla-rabbit/ http://www.giantchinchillarabbit.com/giant-chin-history.html © Copyrighted

Rabbit Clubs Today we are going to cover 5 national Clubs/Association/Councils to give you an idea of what they do, and how you might benefit by joining a club. Hello Listener! Thank you for listening. If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   Easter Easter is a season that has popularized the purchase of rabbits as surprise "Easter bunnies" for young people Easter morning. Please remember to learn about how to care for a rabbit prior to purchase and that rabbits are a 5-10 year commitment. The American Rabbit Breeders Association The ARBA is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy. With over 23,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, their members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial raiser with several hundred animals. Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry whether it be fancy (for exhibition), as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by their organization. There are numerous benefits for joining ARBA, including a copy of the Official Guidebook To Raising Better Rabbits & Cavies (free with the initial membership), a subscription to Domestic Rabbits magazine, Registration, Grand Champion certification and other privileges. The History of the American Rabbit Breeders Association In the late 1890s the Belgian Hare affair brought a serious touch to the American rabbit world that previously had been pet and perhaps meat rabbits. With serious prices paid for Belgian Hares there was not a national organization as with other livestock. In 1910 the National Pet Stock Association was formed. National Pet Stock Association of America was founded on January 10, 1910 by Charles S. Gibson at his home at 1045 West Warren Ave., Detroit, Michigan with a total of 13 people present who became charter members. Charles Gibson was elected as the Secretary/Treasurer. It is not known who designed the first national emblem, but it was common place for the time to use the head of Lady Liberty with the laurel leaves in her hair along with the crossed flags as part of an American symbol. Seven years later the “Pet” was dropped from the name as it began including not just rabbits and cavies but other small fur bearing animals and later another name change was made to the “National Breeders and Fanciers Association of America.” The organization changes their name to the National Breeders and Fanciers Association of America. The emblem you see was created by the George Lauterer Company of Chicago, Illinois. There is once again the crossed US flags, eagle with her stretched wings, double maple leaves (no doubt to recognize our neighbors to the north’s membership), plus the heads of four animals; top is a raccoon, right a cavy (guinea pig), bottom a fox and finally a rabbit. In January, 1918 the first national convention and show is held in Kansas City, Missouri with a total of 540 entries. The organization splits in October, 1919 and Charles Gibson incorporates the new branch in January, 1920 as the National Breeders and Fanciers Association, Inc. Gibson is replaced as secretary in 1921 by Raymond L. Pike and the national headquarters is moved to Crawfordsville, Indiana. Pike is replaced by Arthur Weygandt as secretary in 1923 and the national headquarters is moved once again to Weygandt’s home at 3166 Lincoln Ave., Chicago, Illinois, then shortly after to 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago. In 1923 the rabbit fancy began to split into fur breeds and meat breeds. The name of the association was changed to the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association to narrow the focus to just rabbit and cavy owners. The organization became more specialized with the small stock that they promoted and once again changed their name officially on January 20, 1925 to the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc. Before this change, the association catered to not only rabbits, cavies, raccoons, and foxes, but most all furred animals including rats, mice and even skunks. Oddly enough the association did not have an official logo until the 1940’s. Arthur Weygandt proved to be an outstanding choice for secretary and served the organization well for 20 years until he was forced to resign in early 1943 due to a stroke, being replaced by Mr. Lewis S. J. Griffin. A new logo appeared only in the 1940’s which touted the domestic rabbit for it’s meat, fur and wool, with special emphasis placed on the cavy as an important laboratory animal, which indeed it was. The scalloped border is believed to be designed after a rosette ribbon showing that both species were highly popular as show animals. The war years were hard on the organization, but the meat of the domestic rabbit received a huge boost for its quick growth and high nutritional values by the United States government. Griffin as secretary moved the national offices to his home at 812 East Costella, Colorado Springs, Colorado and then to rental facilities for a short time in 1945 at 25 East Colorado St., Colorado Springs. Due to failing health Griffin resigned in 1945 and James Blyth moved the offices to 5941 Baum Blvd., Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania when chosen as the new secretary. A milestone was reached when affiliated clubs of the national and her membership pitched in together and purchased a permanent headquarters at 4323 Murray Avenue, in Pittsburgh. Not pleased with the design of the previous emblem of the national association a new design appeared in the late 1940’s, however this designer was unknown as with previous designs. The scalloped edges were increased to be more in style with a prize rosette and the emphasis of what the species were mainly used for were removed. The organization grew and by 1948 an estimated 12,000 members were involved in the organization. Then in 1952 the name was changed to the American Rabbit Breeders Association, although the cavy still today falls within the scope of the association. Six years later a youth division was added to afford adults to compete as well as the youth against their own age and experience level, with a youth division specialty club. During the 1952 national convention and show the association decided to change the name of the association for the final time to American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc. It was the consensus that the national mainly existed for the promotion of the domestic rabbit, however cavies would continue to be sponsored by the ARBA. With a brand new name, came a brand new logo and this time we do know the designer, Edward H. Stahl of Missouri. He retained the scallop border, included the words, Food, Fancy and Fur and the heads of two rabbits looking to the right, or as Edward Stahl once said, “Always towards the Future.” The rabbits used in the logo were actually real animals; the top a Standard Chinchilla buck called Chin Champ was Best Standard Chinchilla at the 1924 Lima, Ohio Convention and the bottom rabbit a New Zealand White buck called White Champ that won Best of Breed at the 1932 Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Convention. This was changed in 1971 when Oren Reynolds became president and the youth became a part of ARBA that had the same as an adult membership except for that of voting. The ARBA grew and with the increase in members and finances fliers, booklets and the Domestic Rabbits magazine became available to members. Today there is a guidebook, beginner book, year book and the Standard of Perfection that are updated regularly as well as other publications available through ARBA. Secretary James Blyth retires in December 1972 after a remarkable service of 27 years in the position under no less than 6 presidents. Ed Peifer, Jr. became secretary from 1973 until December, 1984. He moved the national headquarters to rental facilities at 1006 Morrisey Dr., and then to 2401 E. Oakland Ave. both locations in Bloomington, Illinois. In 1976 the ARBA purchased their own facilities at 1925 South Main in Bloomington. Upon Ed Peifer’s retirement, Glen C. Carr of Ohio was appointed secretary, but instead of moving the national offices he was the first secretary to move to where they were located. Peifer had begun to bring the association into the modern era of the internet age and Glen Carr certainly continued to improve and streamline all office operations. The organization today maintains coops and equipment for the national convention shows, it has raised over $150,000 for the research and development fund that contributes to research that benefits rabbits as well as cavy research. There is also a youth scholarship, Hall of Fame library and an active membership that is not just about breeding rabbits. While a large part of the membership do show and breed their choice of dozens of breeds there is also a benefit for pet owners of information. Because of the changing times and the attitude of people, it became very apparent that the words “Food and Fur” was no longer the primary focus of the fancier's organization. Although the American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc. recognizes the many valuable benefits of the domestic rabbit; meat, laboratory, fur, wool, fun, pet and fancy (exhibition) the words “Food, Fancy and Fur” were removed from the emblem. Kevin Whaley created the current logo to bring it into the 21st century as the ARBA continues to adapt to a changing country and world from it’s nearly century of existence. With the continued growth of the ARBA it quickly became apparent that a much larger facility was needed. A modern 10,000 square foot facility was located by Secretary Carr at 8 Westport Court in Bloomington which the ARBA purchased. In 1999 construction began for the Hall of Fame Library within the headquarters, which quickly became the world’s largest single collection of rabbit and cavy publications. In 2003 the name of secretary seemed out of place for what the position had evolved into and was renamed Executive Director. Executive Director Glen C. Carr retired on December 31, 2006 and was succeeded by Executive Director Brad Boyce. After a brief term as ARBA Executive Director, Brad Boyce was succeeded by Eric Stewart in 2009. Mr. Stewart, ARBA's current Executive Director, is committed to steady progress as far as establishing improvements and advances in technologies utilized in the ARBA office. The most recent improvement involved a redesign of the ARBA website. Additional changes to the ARBA's online presence are planned.. This steady evolution will improve existing services while adding new elements contributing to the betterment of the ARBA and its members world-wide. Although ARBA has been through several name changes in the last 100 years since inception the promotion of the domestic rabbit and cavy has remained. Today ARBA has members from around the world that come to the annual convention and show. Rabbits included within the scope of the association are not just fur rabbits or meat rabbits but include breeds that can do both as well as smaller breeds, wooled angora rabbits and fancy marked breeds. The cavy breeds are also distinct and compete at the national convention. The American Rabbit Breeders Association Inc. provides unification within its membership that is composed of rabbit and cavy enthusiasts throughout North America and the world. The ARBA serves to promote the domestic rabbit and cavy fancy as well as all facets of the industry including commercial and scientific research facilities. Its organizational roots can be traced back over 100 years when, in 1910, the National Pet Stock Association came into being in response to the skyrocketing popularity of the Belgian Hare (actually a domestic rabbit - not a true hare), that had come on the scene around 1890. Over the years, the ARBA has grown and evolved into its present identity - enhancing, through it's membership, high standards of perfection, efficiency and cooperation between all phases of the rabbitry industry; the all encompassing objective remaining the promotion of the domestic rabbit and cavy. Today: There are 49 rabbit and 13 cavy breeds currently accepted by the ARBA. Today the ARBA claims over 23,000 members worldwide; many who travel to the annual convention and shows held each year in a different major US city. Rabbits that are included within the scope of this association consist of 49 unique breeds ranging from rabbits prized for their fur, wool, beauty, and/or utility value to those most suitable as pets due to size and/or temperament. The ARBA also actively promotes 13 different breeds of cavies (commonly known as guinea pigs). The cavy breeds are also distinct and compete at the national convention along with rabbits, as well as local shows across North America and other countries. ARBA Library and Hall of Fame The ARBA headquarters based in Bloomington, Illinois houses the The ARBA's Hall of Fame Library - the world's largest single collection of rabbit and cavy publications in the world. There are over 9,000 items/pieces, housed in the collection, which continues to increase in size through donations and contributions of historical items. The Library is an archival library and not a lending library. Access to the Library for research by members is available by appointment only. The ARBA boasts a growing contingent of youth members who have the opportunity to participate in ARBA shows and character-building youth activities. They also have the opportunity to qualify for youth scholarship funds made available by the ARBA. The ARBA encourages youth rabbit and cavy showmanship and related activities as a means to demonstrate not only a working and practical knowledge of rabbits and cavies, but to encourage youth members to explore critical thinking skills. These are desirable values youth learn and experience through their involvement in the ARBA. Character-building values such as responsibility and sportsmanship, will benefit youth throughout their lives. ARBA youth members, while participating in character-building youth activities, have the opportunity to qualify for scholarship funds. The ARBA offers a Youth Scholarship program for high school graduates who wish to further their education. The recipients must have graduated with a minimum 3.0 GPA and be enrolled in their first year of higher education. The scholarship proceeds are designated to be used towards two- or four-year college, vocational, or technical school. While a large percentage of active ARBA members participate in exhibitions such as those hosted at the national convention shows, there is a growing faction that keep companion rabbits and cavies. These pet owners realize a great benefit from the vast stores of knowledge available through ARBA books, manuals, and the bi-monthly publication - Domestic Rabbits. There are numerous reasons owners of all types of rabbits and cavies can benefit from information available from the ARBA. Rabbit raising education This organization helps all levels of rabbit keepers and breeders, including 4-H participants to fanciers, pet owners to commercial producers. The ARBA also produces educational materials such as a guide book, 'Raising Better Rabbits & Cavies', as well as informative books on each registered breed, and a poster with photographs of the recognized breeds of rabbits and cavies, and rabbit registrar and judge training materials. The judges education program is an ongoing program for established judges. Now they also have links to national specialty clubs that are breed specific, as well as a list of all of the shows. Rabbit shows The ARBA sanctions rabbit shows throughout the year, all over the USA and Canada. These shows, sponsored by local clubs, fairs, and show circuits, give rabbit and cavy fanciers the chance to have their animals examined by educated judges and compared to other breeders' animals and the standard. The ARBA holds a large national convention show once a year, which draws in fanciers from across the country and around the world. The 2005 ARBA convention was documented in the film Rabbit Fever. Unified judging and registration system The ARBA has a standardized judging system in which rabbits are judged against the respective breed standard, set by a 100-point scale, and published in the Standard of Perfection. It is a book detailing all of the recognized breeds in the United States and their attributes. The association has licensed judges since the early 1900s who may judge at sanctioned shows and fairs. The registration system maintains records on all rabbits which have passed a registration examination to ensure the animals are healthy and meet the ARBA Standard for the rabbits' breed. ARBA licensed registrars conduct the examination. Registrations are ranked Red; White; or Red, White, and Blue to distinguish how many ancestors of the subject rabbit have been previously registered. Judges: The American Rabbit Breeders Association is proud of its judges who must adhere to the strict standards which have been set by the ARBA Board of Directors. In order to earn his or her judge's license, each individual must have been engaged in breeding and exhibiting rabbits and/or cavies at least five (5) years; two of which must include serving as an ARBA Licensed Registrar, having registered a minimum of thirty-five (35) rabbits or fifteen (15) cavies. Additionally, an applicant for an ARBA Judge's License must have secured the endorsement of 20 ARBA members in good standing. This endorsement must be in writing. All of the preceding must be accomplished before an individual can even apply for a license. Once an application for an ARBA Judge's License has been accepted, that applicant must then pass extensive written and oral examinations and must assist in judging eight (8) shows under at least six (6) judges and must secure the endorsement of these judges as well. Once an ARBA Judge's License has been granted, each judge is expected to participate in at least one Judges' Conference every 5 years and must pass yearly review examinations with a minimum score of 80%. ARBA members can be confident that the judges evaluating their rabbits or cavies on the judging table are well qualified to render their opinion as to the show worthiness and quality of each animal in each class. Registering Rabbits: The American Rabbit Breeders Association has a unique and exacting registration system. Unlike other animal registration systems, each rabbit or cavy must be examined by a licensed registrar, certified free from heritable defects and found to meet specific breed requirements as outlined in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The ARBA does not issue registrations of litters or register individual rabbits based on the registration or pedigree of its sire or dam. Each rabbit or cavy must be at least six (6) months of age before it can be inspected by a licensed ARBA Registrar. Because of its exacting requirements, the ARBA Rabbit/Cavy Registration system is arguably the single best livestock or pet-stock registration system in the world. In order to receive an ARBA Registrar's license, each individual must be a continuous member of the ARBA for at least three (3) years, as well as have secured the written endorsement of 20 ARBA members in good standing prior to submitting an application to the ARBA office. Upon being approved to apply for an ARBA Registrar's License, the applicant has two (2) years in which to pass a written and oral examination delivered by an official examining judge appointed by the ARBA and must work under three (3) judges at three (3) shows, assist one (1) registrar with registering animals, and secure the endorsement of the registrar and at least two (2) of the judges under whom he or she has worked. Each rabbit or cavy that successfully passes the examination and whose owner (a current member of the ARBA) upon submission of the $6.00 registration fee, may receive an official ARBA Registration Certificate upon which may be affixed a seal: ~ Red denotes registration of both parents ~ Red and White - all parents and grandparents have been registered ~ Red, White, & Blue indicates that all animals on the registration form were registered ~ Gold indicates all ancestors on the registration certificate were registered grand champions https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Rabbit_Breeders_Association https://www.arba.net/index.htm https://learnaboutrabbits.wordpress.com/2014/07/25/the-history-of-the-american-rabbit-breeders-association/ The British Rabbit Council The showing and exhibition of rabbits - known as "The Fancy" - started more than 200 years ago! By the middle of the nineteenth century there were many Local Clubs which had formed with the objective of holding regular shows for their Fanciers to enjoy. By the end of the 1800's Specialist Clubs had formed who were devoted to the improvement of individual breeds of rabbit. This structure still exists today with The Fancy still going strong, the number of recognized breeds steadily increased up to the beginning of the 1914-18 war but all of them were 'Fancy Breeds' with just two 'Fur Breeds'. During war time rabbit keeping was enjoying popularity and, coupled with the improved travel available, it meant that many Fanciers went overseas and saw many new breeds - not known in Great Britain - which had been developed. Today there are over 50 recognized breeds and over 500 varieties! By the end of the 1914-18 war the most important Fur rabbit was the Beveren. This inevitably led a group of Beveren breeders in May 1918 to set up, in Birmingham, a new National Club called The Beveren Club. In the words of its seventeen founders, it was established "in an endeavor to raise the dignity and status of rabbit breeding with the best fur breeds." Today, The British Rabbit Council continues to raise the profile and status of rabbit breeding. As new breeds were developed during the 1920's, they were standardized and adopted by The Beveren Club until the society had become a general fur breed club. To recognize its new status, it had two name changes, first to the British Fur Rabbit Society and then later to the to The British Rabbit Society. By 1928 the Society had 13 different fur breeds under its jurisdiction. It also managed its individual members, a number of Clubs and Agricultural Societies. However, things were happening in the rabbit world! There was at this time great deal of interest in Angora wool production and attempts were made to found an Angora wool testing center. Although this idea was backed by a number of influential people, not only in the rabbit world but in the agricultural and scientific worlds, the idea was eventually abandoned. However, the meetings held did give rise to a new national organization for rabbit breeders with the resounding title of...... The National Rabbit Council of Great Britain and her Dominions. Like The British Rabbit Society already in existence, this organization became a forerunner to today's British Rabbit Council. The new organization grew very rapidly but strife developed between the two national bodies. This eventually led, in 1934, to the two organizations merging with approval from all sections of the rabbit world and the affiliated societies. The British Rabbit Council was born! There had always been a need for the permanent identification of rabbits with the numbers being registered with a central organization. A scheme was started in the late 1920's when the British Rabbit Society arranged for the formation of a National Rabbit Marking Council. This Council carried out a ringing scheme for a number of years but in 1938 The British Rabbit Council took over the ringing scheme with Fur & Feather handling the distribution of the rings. This arrangement was not entirely satisfactory and in 1946 the British Rabbit Council took over the whole matter - an arrangement which continues today. Until 1960, the British Rabbit Council was concerned not only with the showing of rabbits but also with the commercial farming of rabbits. The Commercial Rabbit Association was formed for commercial rabbit keepers and this organization took over responsibility for the rabbit farmers. Today, The British Rabbit Council recognizes that the rabbit is an enormously popular domestic animal and Britain's third most popular pet. It is a much loved part of many children's childhood as parents chose a rabbit to help teach their children about responsibility and commitment. The British Rabbit Council has made the decision to encourage the pet owner to join them so they also have access to good advice and that the Council can aid the welfare of the rabbit. The British Rabbit Council's objectives today do not differ too much from the original Beveren Club as the Council "promotes the breeding and showing of rabbits and helps pet owners with the welfare of their rabbits." Throughout its history, The British Rabbit Council has used its influence to help on a number of issues. For example, during the war regulations prevented landlords from prohibiting the keeping of rabbits. After the war, the association was largely responsible for having this particular wartime regulation put into permanent legislation thus insuring that rabbit keeping was not prohibited. Also, when there was considerable transit of rabbits by rail to and from shows, The British Rabbit Council played a large part in getting compensation from the Railways for delayed transit and hence loss of entry fees and rail fares. Other examples include a stock transfer scheme if rabbit breeders lost their entire stud in terrible flooding as they did once on the East Coast; the administration of the bran rationing scheme for the Government after the war; the provision of lecturers for Local Club meetings, and so on. In the late 1990's representatives from The British Rabbit Council have attended international conventions to secure the British Rabbit Council's place as a leading European rabbit organization. Alongside all this extra work, the Council is still the governing body for The Fancy and has established over the years a comprehensive set of Show Rules. Each year approximately 1000 shows take place throughout Great Britain! Today sees a structure of District Advisors who give their time to help people in their regions. These are well respected members of great experience appointed by the Council to give advice locally. At shows, awards are available from the Council. The basis of these is the Challenge Certificate which is awarded to the best rabbit of its particular group. Today, The British Rabbit Council encourages research into diseases etc. among other topical issues. As the role of the rabbit has developed into a popular pet, the British Rabbit Council actively encourages good rabbit keeping among pet owners. The Newark Head Office receives many hundreds of letters or calls each month asking for advice or information on an extremely wide variety of topics concerned with the rabbit. These are not confined to individual people but are sometimes from official bodies, Governments or overseas. "To protect, further and co-ordinate the interests of all British rabbit breeders; to assist and extend the exhibition rabbits, to influence, advise and co-operate with central and local authorities, departments, education and other committees and schools in promoting the extension of the breeding of rabbits, and to promote and encourage education and research of a scientific and/or practical nature for the welfare and benefit of the rabbit." As a member of the BRC you will receive the following: Articles of Constitution & Rules Book; Breed Standards Book; Year Book; Five Freedoms; Benefits of Vaccination; Top Tips How to Look After Your Rabbit; Composting Rabbit Manure; Recommended Reading; Ring Order Form, in all Adult packs. The membership also enables you to exhibit rabbits at a BRC Star Show and Join National/Area/Local BRC Clubs. The 'bible' of rabbit showing is the Breeds Standard Booklet. There is also a library consisting of a considerable number of books relating to the rabbit. It is difficult to sum up an organization with such a long and interesting history - and bright future -as The British Rabbit Council. One thing, however, is very certain. The British Rabbit Council is made up of its members and exists to help all rabbit breeders and keepers. Most members consider that it is not only a pleasure to be a member but perhaps also a duty which allows him or her to give back a small part of the happiness he or she has gained from the Fancy. http://thebritishrabbitcouncil.org/standards.htm The Australian National Rabbit Council Why did we need a National Rabbit Council? We have now grown into a fully fledged National body with almost three years behind us and our first National Convention held in March 2014. Perhaps the most important thing to remember about a National Governing body is that it will not change the way your local rabbit Clubs run to any great degree. The National Rabbit Council is not there to change the way you do things now but to hopefully allow all the rabbit Clubs across Australia to improve the service they give to their members and to co-ordinate some activities to all Rabbit Fanciers across Australia. The only rules that affiliated Clubs would be expected to run under National Club rules would be the show rules same as what happens with the BRC. To quote the BRC rules: All affiliated organizations shall retain freedom of action and to be at liberty to carry through any program within their own sphere as they may deem desirable or which may be most suited to their particular locality, except that all organizations affiliated to the Association must hold their shows under BRC Show Rules. Anyone who has read the BRC rules will know that there are some rules in there that we do not/cannot run by. So to say Clubs run under BRC rules is somewhat of a misnomer. Most of us run under most of the Show Rules but I don’t believe anyone runs under all the Rules. The BRC has an Investigation Committee but I am not aware of any Club that has one in Australia. The WARCI had one for a number of years but had to dissolve it in the end because they were really too small to support one. Also many of the BRC rules relate to show support and as most Clubs run as individual Clubs and not under a governing body they do not need to apply for show support. With a National Club the rules would relate to Australian conditions and allow for the long distances in Australia and the introduction of non BRC accepted Breeds. So Australian Rules for Australian Rabbit Clubs. One of the huge advantages to being an affiliated Club to the Australian National Rabbit Council would be that they would not have to pay their own Public Liability Insurance as they would be covered by the ANRCI Insurance. At the moment many Clubs – especially smaller ones – struggle to find the large amounts required for their Public Liability Insurance. As an affiliated Club they would pay ANRCI a Third Party Insurance Levy (which would be a small percentage of their previous payments) and would then be covered. This is a service the BRC also offers to its Affiliated Clubs. Another service that ANRCI hopes to set up is a National Stud Register. The idea of having an Australia wide database of stud names has been discussed – and generally supported – for many years. This service would be relatively easy to set up and maintain with the cooperation of the affiliated Clubs. It would allow already duplicate Stud Names to be acknowledged (perhaps with the state of registration added to the stud name – Stud Name (WA)) and to ensure that future stud names are not duplicated. It would also allow members to use the stud names in every club and not have to pay separate registration fees at every club they wish to show in. Our Committee is looking at the feasibility of having a Stud Name Register, the best way it could be run and the rules under which it could be run. The Steering Committee is also looking at the feasibility of having an Australia wide Ring Register. There are many ways this could be done and all the options will be examined to find the best way that it could be set up. In the future, we may be able to access our own rings and not having to bring them in from England. Just having our own rings will save our Clubs all having to buy and import rings (costs of exchange rates and postage) and decrease the time of ordering and receiving the rings. An Australian Breed Standard that allows non BRC standard breeds would be a long term goal. This would be a long process and would require a lot of research and discussion. There are many breeds and colors we will never have here in Australia but there are some unique breeds that we do have that deserve to be in an Australian standard. These are all areas that the Steering Committee will be examining to find the feasibility of setting up these processes within an ANRCI. We expect that some of these subjects will produce a lot of discussion – both for and against – and also many different ways that these things could be set up. We welcome good sensible ideas and suggestions. We will look at all of them and try and find the best way that these things can work in Australia. We feel that Australian rabbit breeders deserve an Australian governing body that is developed with our own local conditions in mind. We hope that you all feel that this is a huge step forward for the Rabbit Fancy in Australia and that you come forward with lots of positive ideas to help us develop the best Australian National Council possible. ANRCI is an Incorporated Association (WA) . We have an elected Management Committee made up of State Representatives. All Rabbit Clubs have the option to affiliate with ANRCI and enjoy the benefits of shared ideas, databases and costs. All fanciers or owners of rabbits are able to join ANRCI as well, you do not need to be a member of an affiliated club, but you do need to be a member of a club The Rabbit Fancy in Australia is relatively small compared to the UK and the US. The website offers support for both affiliated and non affiliated Clubs. It contains the Stud Prefix database, The Championship System, Judging Training Guidelines and the Breed in Development Program. All this information is listed under the Club Support Heading Fanciers Professional Development Seminars ANRCI is really excited to announce a great new initiative which we are sure will help provide showing, breeding and judging information to members of the Fancy - especially in rural areas. We hope it will develop Professionalism in all aspects of the Fancy – whether it is running a Club and shows, assessing and breeding your stock, or showing and judging rabbits. Last year they undertook to use any profits from the ANRCI raffle to help with education of the Fancy. So we have now put that promise into practice! They plan to run these seminars (as many as we can afford each year) in a number of different regional centers. These seminars will cover showing, breeding and judging and range from information suitable for beginners, or people just interested in improving the standards of their rabbits as well as Fanciers that hope to become judges in the future. They will also be great refreshers for existing judges. They hope to build on these seminars in the future and offer different perspectives or emphasis depending what is being asked for. John Porritt together with Debbie Pulford have created the program and they will present the lectures - with assistance at times from other suitable people. They know that once you see the agenda of the seminars you will be very excited as well!! Apart from the formal learning opportunities from the lectures the informal learning from exchange of ideas and networking make these seminars something not to be missed!! ANRCI is paying the transport and accommodation costs of the lecturers and also the cost of the venue. Participants will need to pay a small fee to help cover some of the costs (so that we can run more of these learning weekends) and their accommodation if required. They hope that lots of Fanciers make an effort to come along and listen to the most experienced judges and exhibitors in Australia. Many exhibitors, particularly rural ones, rarely get this sort of opportunity and we at ANRCI are very proud to be offering these great learning experiences. It is envisaged that this road show will also visit Victoria, South Australia and Western Australia. People keep rabbits for many reasons. Many of us buy a bunny as a pet for ourselves or our children. Some people decide that they would like to have pure bred rabbits and exhibit them in competitions. Others keep them for Agility or Hopping Competitions. Keeping rabbits as a food, fur or fiber source is also quite common. Whether you keep your bunny for a pet or for exhibition they hope to provide you with all the information you need. https://www.australiannationalrabbitcouncil.com/ European Association of Poultry, Pigeon, Cage Bird, Rabbit and Cavy Breeders. The EE for short. European Association of Poultry, Pigeon, Cage Bird, Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Founded in 1938 . As a charitable and non party political and non denominational organization, it is the objective of the EE to unite all small livestock organizations in Europe. The object of our organization is also, apart from enhancing the contact among nations, to process the technical and breeding problems of all indigenous breeds. A further object includes taking charge of shows and judging panels. Organizing shows and seminars as well as dealing with all technical issues unites all European small livestock fanciers, which is a high priority within our organization. Austria : Rassezuchtverband Österreichischer Kleintierzüchter Belgium : Fédération Nationale des Éleveurs d’Animaux de Basse-Cour asbl Bulgaria Croatia : Hrvatski Savez udruga uzgajatelja malih životinja Czech Republic : Český svaz chovatelů Denmark : Danmarks Kaninavlerforening Finland: Finnish Rabbit and Rodent Breeders’ Federation France : Fédération Française de Cuniculiculture Germany : Zentralverband Deutscher Rasse-Kaninchenzüchter e.V. Great Britain : The British Rabbit Council Hungary : Magyar Galamb- És Kisállattenyésztők Országos Szövetsége Italy : Federazione Italiana delle Associazioni Avicole Lettonia Luxemburg : Union des Sociétés avicoles du Grand-Duché de Luxembourg Netherland : Kleindier Liefhebbers Nederland Norway : Norges Kaninavlsforbund Poland: Polski Związek Hodowców Romania Russia Serbia Slowakia : Slovenský Zväz Chovateľov Slowenia : Slovenska zveza društev gojiteljev pasemskih malih živali Spain : Federación Española de Avicultura, Colombicultura y Cunicultura de Raza Sweden : Svensk duvavelsförening Switzerland : Kleintiere Schweiz The European Standards Committee of the Rabbit section (ESKK) is a technical committee within the EE. The European Society for Poultry and Rabbit breeding (European Society for Small Livestock breeding) was founded in Brussels on the 18th of June 1938 by the small livestock societies of Belgium, France, Luxembourg and the Netherlands. The society will hereinafter be referred to as the EE, in line with the French translation of the original name - Entente Européenne d'Aviculture et de Cuniculture. Nowadays the EE is known as: European Association of Poultry, Pigeon, Cage Bird, Rabbit and Cavy breeders. The legal seat of the EE is in Luxembourg. The European Standard Committee(ESKK) has the responsibility to establish a European standard and thereafter amend it whenever necessary, in accordance with the Constitution of the EE The European standard has been in existence in German since 2012. All non German speaking countries can translate this standard and use all photographs after approval of the ESKK In order for a breed or colour to be included in the European standard, it needs to be fully standardised in at least 3 EE affiliated countries. The breed or colour must have been shown at a European show prior to inclusion. Breeds or colours of rabbit that are not included in the European standard, can be judged at a European show as long as a guidance description is available to the judge in one of the 3 official languages (German,English or French). 31 Nations comprising 2.5 million members It seems that they are the holder of the rules for Kanin Hop as well. Changes of these regulations require the consent of the European Kanin Hop responsible. The consent shall require a simple majority of countries organizing Kanin Hop tournaments. http://www.entente-ee.com/about-us/ The Malta Rabbit Club The Malta Rabbit Club - in brief The Malta Rabbit Club was founded in 1964. The club has approximately 300 members and amongs others, the club organises an Annual National Rabbit Championship Show. Over 40 different rabbit breeds in around 160 classes. Malta National Rabbit Society - WHERE EXHIBITION AND LEARNING ARE A PLEARSURE !!! http://www.petngarden.com/maltarabbitclub/ Benefits of Joining an Organization Here's five great reasons why joining an organization near you is a good idea: 1. When you join a rabbit organization you will get to meet other rabbit breeders from abroad and have an opportunity to learn, share and gain valuable experience in your field. 2. You get to stay informed about the latest news in the rabbit industry on a consistent basis. 3. If you love rabbits, you'll fine the atmosphere of events etc fun and enjoyable as you learn and share. 4. You have the opportunity to help “give back” to the rabbit industry as a whole. 5. If you are joining an organization specializing in rabbits you will potentially have the opportunity to help save the lives of bunny rabbits whether you adopt or donate. https://www.justrabbits.com/rabbit-organizations.html © Copyrighted

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   Today we are going to cover the Dutch Rabbit breed. The Dutch rabbit, also known as Hollander or Brabander is easily identifiable by its characteristic color pattern, was once the most popular of all rabbit breeds. However, after dwarf rabbits were developed, the popularity of the Dutch rabbit dwindled. Nevertheless, the Dutch rabbit remains one of the top ten most popular breeds worldwide. The Dutch is a classy rabbit easily recognized in the best of circles. We had a few purchases through the Amazon link on the web site. We still need a few more purchases so that Amazon will not shut down the account, so please use the link on the hare of the rabbit .com website page.     Our Amazon item of the week is: This is a charming pendant that will spruce up any outfit and become your go to favorite accessory! The pendant is sterling silver plated and approximately 1” in diameter with the delightful 3D urethane encased Dutch Rabbit. The included snake chain is 22” in length, made from brass and 95.5% sterling silver plated, and closes with a spring ring clasp. A note of concern is that the sterling silver plated items can tarnish over time when exposed to the air, but can be easily cleaned with a silver polishing cream. Last week we covered the Polish rabbit, and some breeds, such as the Polish, can’t actually claim origin from their namesake country, but the Dutch is indeed from the Netherlands. The Dutch color originated in a breed called the Petite Brabicon, that by the time it appeared in England around 1850, was called the Hollander. In the early stages of the breed’s history, there were two marking patterns: one was the Dutch we know today, the other was similar, but more of the rabbit was colored and it had just a white blaze and white collar. The UK is actually the country in which the Dutch breed was established and standardized, though the actual bloodlines are from the Netherlands. British rabbit breeders of the early 1800’s obtained recently arrived Brabancons at the London ports and added them to their breeding programs. The breed in England was called the Dutch breed as early as 1835. During the 1830s rabbits were imported to England from Ostend in Belgium every week for the meat market.  Among these rabbits was a breed known as the Petite Brabançon, as it originated from Brabant in Flanders. The Petite Brabançon may still be found in paintings from the fifteenth century. The Dutch rabbit has its genetic roots in this old breed. The Petite Brabançon would often display Dutch markings, and breeders in England selected those with even markings, fixing those markings into the breed we know today The earliest engraving of the Dutch breed reveals a nearly entirely colored rabbit which possessed two white front paws and a narrow collar covering little more than the animal’s dewlap region. It did not even have a blaze, though many Dutch animals did, as did the Brabancon from which the Dutch was developed. At the time, they weighed up to 9 pounds, and were cobby and muscular in type. The does were prolific, and could be counted on to mother their litters well. Fanciers of the developing Dutch breed continued to line-breed and in-breed the Dutch. In-breeding significantly reduced the size of the breed from 9 pounds down to as little as 1.25 pounds in a few animals. The Dutch is one of the oldest breeds as it was developed around 1864, indeed the United Kingdom Dutch Rabbit Club was founded in 1879 Controversy over the direction of the breed prompted calls for the creation of a Dutch Rabbit Club, which was established in December, 1884. The Dutch markings and type were then standardized in England by the late 1880’s. Today’s familiar Dutch breed has remained unchanged since then. During World War 2, in Britain, the Dutch rabbit was crossed with larger breeds for meat production. It has also been used in the laboratory. Dutch breed rabbits arrived in the USA at the beginning of the 1900’s, and was one of the first breeds accepted at the formation of the National Pet Stock Association, forerunner to the ARBA, in 1910. The Dutch rabbit is among the first rabbit breeds recognized by the National Pet Stock Association, the forerunner of the American Rabbit Breeders Association. The NPSA was founded in 1910 and had several name changes until becoming the ARBA in 1952. According to Bob D. Whitman’s book “Domestic Rabbits & Their Histories,” the Dutch breed is descended from the Brabancon breed out of Belgium. It got its name by 1835, and the first written account describing the breed appears in “Manuals For The Many,” dated 1865. Whitman credits the original Dutch breed to England. The Dutch is one of the oldest breeds of domestic rabbit known, owing its existence, as do all domestic rabbits, to the much earlier domestication of the European wild rabbit, or (true rabbit). Considered a fancy rabbit due to their distinctive Dutch markings, the Dutch Rabbit, has from its introduction, benefited from the careful attention of breeders over the years who have continue improving the breed and expanding the available varieties while maintaining and perfecting the distinctive markings. Special attention has been paid to perfecting the general body type of the Dutch breed to the standard of perfection we know today. Due to the high expectations demanded for perfection in type and markings, the Dutch is one of the greatest challenges for the prospective and experienced breeder alike. The Dutch rabbit is probably one of the easiest breeds to identify because of the distinctive white markings. The white blaze on the nose, and the white collar and the “saddle” on the back are a dead giveaway. Dutch are a small breed, but not a dwarf. The fur is normal length, with a soft under layer covered by longer guard hairs. The fur is flyback, meaning that if brushed opposite to the direction of growth, the fur quickly snaps back to normal position. Ears are upright. The breed is recognized by both British Rabbit Council and the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Today, the Dutch rabbit is a very popular breed for show and also raised as pets. Descriptions and Standards In the USA: Dutch are a small rabbit breed weighing up to 5.5 pounds. They are compact and cobby in type, and recognized in 7 varieties: Black, blue, chinchilla, chocolate, gray, steel, tortoiseshell In the UK: The "ideal" weight is 2.041 – 2.26 kg (4.5 - 5 lb). The breed is accepted in 9 varieties: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, and Pale Grey. Tri-colored Dutch is recognized as a separate breed. The American Rabbit Breeders Association recognizes seven varieties of Dutch rabbit colors, all mixed with the white markings characteristic to the Dutch. The colors are: black, blue, chinchilla, chocolate, gray, steel, and tortoise. A lilac color is currently in development. Recognized eye color ranges from brown to brown with a ruby cast to dark brown to blue-gray. The BRC standards require a compact, cobby rabbit with firm flesh and a glossy coat. The ideal weight is between 2.041 kg and 2.26 kg. The ears should be short and strong, the eyes bold and bright and the cheeks should be rounded. The blaze should be wedge shaped, carrying up to a point between the ears. The line dividing the white fur from the contrasting color in the saddle (middle of the body) should continue round under the body (called the undercut at that point) in an even and straight line. Foot stops, that is the white markings on the hind feet, should be about 3.17 cm in length and cut cleanly round the foot, similar to the saddle and undercut on the body. Body To be considered a show rabbit the body should be compact, having a close-coupled appearance with a nicely rounded back. From directly behind the head the rabbit should display an even pleasing curve up over the shoulders it its highest point at the loin and hips, then rounding off into full and smooth hindquarters. Looking from the top, the rabbit’s shoulders should be rounded but slightly narrower than the hips. The hips should be well rounded, smooth and full all the way to the base of the hindquarters with no protrusion of the hips to mar the total effect. The truly proportioned body of the Dutch rabbit is the picture of elegance. Head The rabbit’s head should be rounded and full, not pear shaped, with a short neck making the head set close to the shoulders. Ideally not more than one and a half fingertip widths of the index and middle fingers should fit between the base of the head and the beginning of the shoulders on a senior animal, one over 6 months of age. Ears The ears should be stocky, well furred and carried erect. They should be in proportion to the size of the head and body of the rabbit. Eyes The eyes should be bright and clear, free of spots or discoloration in the iris. The color of the iris must be the same in both eyes and must match the color specified for the variety. Feet and Legs The feet and legs must be straight and of the proper length and size to balance and be in harmony with the body of the rabbit. Toenails must be white in all varieties. Nails of any other color than white are a disqualification. Fur The fur should be short and dense while course enough in guard hairs to offer resistance when stroked backwards toward the head and when released the hair should fly back to its natural position and lie smooth over the entire body of the rabbit. The coat should have a rich high luster with a dense undercoat. BRC: They come in Black, Blue, Steel Grey, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell , Brown Grey and Pale Grey. There is also the Tri Colour Dutch which is classed as a different variety. Everything is the same as for the Dutch rabbit except that one cheek must be orange, the other black The ear on the orange cheek side should be black and the ear on the black cheek side should be orange. The saddle consists of alternating bands of orange and black. Appearance The American Rabbit Breeders Association standard calls for a small to medium rabbit. Dutch are a 4-class breed. Junior bucks and does are those under 6 months of age with a minimum weight of 1.75 lbs (0,793kg). Seniors are 6 months of age and over, weighing between 3.5 (1,58kg) and 5.5 lbs (2,48kg), with 4.5 (2,04kg) being the ideal weight. Dutch are to have a compact, well-rounded body; rounded head; short, stocky, well-furred ears; and short, glossy "fly-back" fur. Six colors (in conjunction with white) are recognized for show: Black, a dense, glossy black with a slate blue under-color. Deep, solid and carrying well down to the skin, with blue under color, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and mealiness or flecking. Eyes dark hazel /dark brown. COLORS: Blue, a medium blue-gray with a slate blue under-color. Deep, solid, slate blue, color to carry well down to the skin. Blue under color, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and flecked or mealy coat. Eyes dark blue/blue-gray. Chinchilla, (the newest variety to be recognized by the ARBA) an agouti color with bands of pearl white and black with a slate blue under-color. The ears must have black lacing. Eyes-- brown (preferred). Chocolate, a rich chocolate brown with a dove-gray under-color. Deep solid dark chocolate, color carrying well down to the skin. Under-color to match the top color as near as possible. The deeper the under color the better the top will appear. Free from white hairs and mealiness. Eyes hazel/dark brown (with a ruby cast), the deeper the better. Gray, (UK: Brown Grey) an Agouti color similar to that of the American cottontail, with bands of color on the hair-shaft which produce a ring effect when blown into. The bands of color should be a light tan, a thin charcoal band then a darker tan over a slate blue under-color. Slate blue at the base followed by a band of yellowy orange then a black line, finishing by light or nut brown tips to the fur. The whole interspersed by black guard hairs. That is the impression gained when the fur of the brown grey is parted. The general impression should be light or nut brown on ears, cheeks, body, hind feet and top of tail, the whole ticked with black hairs. Belly color and eye circles (small as possible) bright straw color. A lighter shade permissible under tail. Eyes hazel/Dark Brown, deeper the better. Steel, (UK: Steel Grey) a black color with off-white tips to the hair-shaft on some hairs. The under-color is slate blue. Dark steel grey merging to pale slate blue in the under-color. The whole interspersed with black guard hairs. The medium bright and evenly ticked shade is the one to aim for and the extreme tips of the fur will be tipped with steel blue or grey. The mixture to carry well down the sides, flanks and hind feet. Belly color will be a lighter shade varying with the top color. Upper part of the tail to match the body color; underside to tone with the belly color. Ears to match body, Eyes deep hazel/brown Pale Grey - Top color biscuit carrying well down and merging into pale slate at the base, the whole interspersed with black ticking. The general impression should be biscuit tipped with black on ears, cheeks, body and top of tail. Belly color white with pale slate under-color. Eye circle white but ideally non-existent or as small as possible. Body color should be present on hind feet. Underside of tail white. Eyes hazel. Tortoise, (UK: Tortoiseshell) a bright, clean orange with slate blue shadings along the ears, whisker beds and hindquarters. the under-color is dark cream. An even shade of orange top color to carry well down and shading off to a lighter color to the skin. Ears, belly and under the tail blue-black. Cheeks and hind quarters (flanks) shaded or toned with blue black. Eyes hazel/dark brown, the deeper the better. In the UK, Yellow (no US equivalent) and Pale Grey (US: Gold) Dutch are also recognized for show. An even shade of yellow throughout. The exact shade is not so important as that the color should be even and extend to the belly or undercut and no eye circles. In fact, a self color free from chinchillation on cheeks and hind feet. Eyes hazel. Chinchillation - A mixture of colors ticked with a darker shade, often found on the cheeks of yellows. The steel, pale and brown grey are chinchillated varieties to a certain extent. Description of terms used: Flecking or Mealiness - Individual hairs more than one color in selfs. e.g. Blacks should be black at the tip of the fur, that color carrying down the fur as far as possible, then merging into blue. In flecked or mealy exhibits the individual fur would be black, then dark grey, then a deeper shade before merging into blue at the base. New varieties under development in the United States include Harlequin (UK: Tri-Colored Dutch) (a pattern of black and orange patches) and Chinchilla. The BRC has a separate standard for Tri-Coloured Dutch. Despite its popularity, the Dutch rabbit has not changed much over the years. The most striking aspect of the breed is the marking pattern: The blaze is an even wedge of white running up the rabbit's face. It is shaped by the cheeks which are the rounded circles of color on either side of the face. The neck marking is a white wedge on the back of the head. The saddle is to be a straight line running behind the shoulders and continuing underneath the rabbit to the undercut across the belly. The stops are located on the rear feet, which should be white from the toes to a point one third the length of the foot. Cheeks: Cheeks are to be well rounded and carried around the whisker bed, but not into it. Faults include the cheeks being hooked (i.e. not well rounded and coming sharp to the jaw bone), meeting the line of the neck, or dragging into the mouth or throat. Faults also include the cheeks being to high, whether above the whisker bed or appearing as eye circles. Blaze: The blaze is the marking along the face. It should be in a wedge shape and about medium width. The blaze should cover the nose, whisker bed, and tapering up to the ears. Although, there are no additional points added, it is desirable to have a hair line (where the blaze goes between the ears and connecting to the neck marking). Neck: The neck marking is the white part on the collar behind the ears. It should be a clean and wedged shape marking. An animal with no or full neck marking is not disqualified, but is faulted. Dirty necks (where it is not a clean shape) will be faulted. Saddle: The saddle marking is point on the upper body where the white fur meets the colored fur. This should begin just behind the shoulders and create a perfect circle around the body. Undercut: The undercut is the marking on the under-body that connects to the saddle. It should create a perfect circle and should be close behind the forelegs, but touching them. It is a disqualification if the body color extends past the elbow joint of the foreleg. Stops: Stops are the white spats or stockings on the back feet starting from the toes and reaching up to a point one-third the length of the foot or hock but must never extend above the hock joint. It is important that they be of equal length. Clean cut on both feet, and form perfect circles around the appendage. That is to say the line should not be biased or offset. Nor can there be drags. A split Stop occurs when the body color runs down and between the toes and is a disqualification as is the case when the white stop runs above the hock joint. On the hind feet, the stop markings should be well rounded. There should be white from the toes to about one third of the length of the foot, where the color fur begins. Disqualifications include if the color fur of the marking runs completely and between the toes. The toes can be separated for identification of the split stop. Hairline The hairline is the thin line of white hair running from the top of the Blaze between the ears, entirely dividing the cheeks and ears and connecting the white Blaze to the white Collar behind the ears. The hairline is a desirable marking but is very difficult to achieve and no points are awarded nor taken away by it presents or absence. Sometimes only a partial hairline exists and fails to fully connect the Blaze to the Collar and may appear only as a spot of white between the ears. In such cases the spot is not considered a blemish or disqualification. A perfect hairline, however, can be the single discriminating mark of perfection that allows a judge to pick a best of show or breed over second best, or best of breed of opposite sex. Dutch Rabbit Personality The Dutch Rabbit is in general a calm, easy-going rabbit. They make a good domestic pet, are friendly and are easy to train. Dutch rabbits are considered an easygoing, friendly, intelligent breed. Of course, generalizations always have exceptions. Discuss the personality of any Dutch you’re considering adding to your family with the rabbit rescue operator, breeder, or person you might adopt from. Also, quietly observe the rabbit for several minutes to see how he or she looks and acts. Care should always be taken, as the rabbit can be a bit jumpy and wary by nature. The body of the rabbit is very delicate. Owners that are new to rabbits need to receive instruction on the proper way to pick up and handle their new pet, as it is very easy for the rabbit to be injured if handled carelessly. Unlike cats and small dogs, rabbits have a natural fear of being picked up and handled and will need time and conditioning to adjust. When young bunnies are handled carefully and they learn to trust their people early in life they will become very overt in their display of affection. Rabbits can be trained to recognize their name and to even come when called. They will especially enjoy sitting on its owner’s lab, snuggling, and being attentive. When interacting with any rabbit, earn their trust before you attempt to touch them or pick them up. Give them time to settle into your home before introducing them to the entire family or to your friends. Observe your new furry friend to learn his or her likes and dislikes, and allow them to approach you to interact with you on their terms. Always move slowly around your rabbit, and learn how to properly pick them up before attempting to do so. Rabbits are fully capable of inflicting injury to a person with their claws, particularly the rear claws. Periodic trimming of the nails, proper handling and some common sense will usually prevent most injuries. Some breeders wear arm protectors to prevent scratches to their forearms when handling their rabbits. Occasionally, rabbits will show aggressive behavior in the form of biting although this is normally the exception. When bites are delivered, it is usually more of a pinch then a true bite. A rabbit, however, is fully capable of delivering a serious bite if provoked sufficiently. Dutch Rabbit Care Caring for a Dutch rabbit begins with offering a healthy diet and a safe, loving home. Get these basics down, along with some extras, and your Dutch should thrive. Feeding: Every rabbit raiser has their own preference on what pellet to feed. It is, however, important to feed a high quality pellet. Supplements, again, are the owner's preference. It's very important that any rabbit gets Timothy Hay in their diet on a daily basis. Timothy will help prevent intestinal obstruction. Fresh water on a daily basis is an important key in maintaining a healthy and conditioned rabbit. The key food for rabbits is hay. Both clean, fresh hay and clean, fresh water are two things rabbits must have free access to at all times. The type of hay matters. For healthy adult rabbits who aren’t nursing, fresh grass hay rules. This includes timothy, orchard, oat, and other grass hays. Young rabbits, nursing mothers, or sick rabbits need the added calories and extra protein and calcium from alfalfa hay. Hay is important for rabbits because chewing it provides a wonderful way for rabbits to wear down their constantly growing teeth. This can prevent some dental problems. Besides hay, rabbits enjoy eating leafy greens and vegetables. Fruit is also appreciated, but the sugar content means you must offer only small portions. Consider vegetables and fruit as treats, particularly fruit. You don’t want your rabbit filling up on these and not eating enough hay. Consult your veterinarian about which vegetables and fruits are safe for rabbits to eat. A pelleted food formulated specifically for rabbits is a small but important part of the rabbit diet. This provides vitamins and minerals that might otherwise be missed. Housing: All rabbits require a well ventilated area to help prevent disease (i.e. pasturella). Dutch are a relatively small breed and don't require a very large cage, usually 24"x24" is a good sized cage. Your rabbit’s habitat needs to be spacious and outfitted with a litter box, bedding, food and water dishes or bottles, toys, and hideaways. This could apply to a rabbit-proofed room, an exercise pen, a large cage, or some other accommodation that fits into your home. Keeping your bunny’s abode clean is as important as outfitting it and placing it in a good location. Daily spot cleaning, weekly cleanup, and a monthly deep clean promote good health and happy bunnies. Bunnies? Yes. Rabbits are social animals and most prefer to hang out with another bunny or two. If you do adopt multiple bunnies, be sure they get along. And to prevent unwanted pregnancies, keep them in same-sex groups or have them spayed/neutered. Spayed/neutered rabbits actually face fewer health risks as they age, because reproductive cancers are almost eliminated. But just because your bunnies have buddies doesn’t mean they entertain themselves. Be sure to interact with your furry friends daily. Petting your rabbits, playing games with them, and just hanging out adds to their life, and yours. Rabbits do a lot of self-grooming, just like cats. Bunny pairs and groups also help groom each other. But rabbits still need help from you to keep their nails trimmed and their fur brushed. Rabbits with longer fur especially need daily brushing to prevent mats. Regularly check your rabbit’s ears, mouth, and area around the tail for signs of any problems. Note: Rabbits rarely need baths. If you choose to bathe a rabbit, never submerge him or her fully in water. Keep the water level to an inch or two. When drying, be gentle and keep them warm, but not hot, until fully dry. This can take a while for wool or rex breeds. Dutch Rabbit Health The average Dutch rabbit seems no more or less susceptible to the usual rabbit ailments. Among those are GI stasis, malocclusion, respiratory disease, mites, and, in un-spayed females, uterine cancer. A healthy diet, a safe, clean home, and plenty of chances for daily play and interaction minimize many of the health risks. Rabbits with blue eyes might be more sensitive to light. Be aware that if the environment is uncomfortable for you, it’s likely uncomfortable for your rabbit. This is particularly true about warm temperatures. Keep your rabbit in a cool area, ideally no more than 70 degrees Fahrenheit, to minimize the risk of heatstroke. Rabbits tolerate cooler temperatures better than warmer. And keep in mind that higher humidity can make temperatures feel warmer. Contact your rabbit-savvy veterinarian if your rabbit suddenly changes behavior or routine, or if he or she has unusual discharge from anywhere on the body. A rabbit who stops eating, drinking, or eliminating needs immediate veterinary care. Breeding: The gestation period for a Dutch rabbit is usually between 28-32 days. Average size of litter is around 6 kits. Kits are born blind and eyes will open anywhere between 7-14 days. The goal of every responsible rabbit breeder is the challenge of producing animals that best reflect the standards of perfection in type and marking for their breed. The first step for the new breeder is to build a base to start from. That is best done by purchasing the highest quality pedigreed stock the breeder can afford. This is normally accomplished by visiting rabbit shows and buying from reputable and experienced breeders who often bring to the show breeding quality rabbits from their stock that they are willing to sell. With that done, the real work can begin. With every great task undertaken, the devil is always found in the details and this is no less true than when working with the variables of genetics. Once the breeder is armed with a fundamental understanding of genetics plus the skill to recognize the strengths and weaknesses in his or her base breeding stock, that knowledge can be put to work matching prospective breeding pairs. The key to producing quality animals always rests with selective breeding to cultivate and enhance positive characteristics while culling out the less desirable. The design of the breeding program is the search for the elusive perfect rabbit. In the search for perfection, probably few other rabbit breeds is the bar raised higher than it is for the Dutch. Considered the fancy rabbit, the pursuit of near perfection in its markings is a true test of patience and perseverance on the part of the breeder. In the case of the Dutch, it almost seems that if something can go wrong it will. From a cheek that is too long to stops that are uneven to a slight spot on the end of the nose, all are faults and imperfections that either can be a disqualification or at least points lost at the judging table. Don’t get me wrong, this is not a complaint. On the contrary, it is a statement about what makes raising Dutch Rabbits so challenging and interesting. If it were easy to raise the perfect Dutch Rabbits everyone would be doing it. And what personal satisfaction would there be in finding success at something that offers no challenge. Purchasing: When purchasing a Dutch rabbit, it is important to keep in mind the purpose of the rabbit you are about to buy (i.e. breeding, showing, pet). No matter what the purpose is, it is very important to keep the health of the rabbit in mind and do a good examination on the rabbit first. Check the teeth for any signs of malocclusion (long, lower incisors extending in front of upper incisors, etc.) teeth problems are hereditary and it wouldn't hurt to see the sire & dam's teeth (if applicable). Check the ears for any dirt that may resemble ear mites. It is extremely important to look at the nose, eyes, and forearms, for any evidence of a cold or upper respiratory infection. For a show or breeding rabbit, it is important to look at the bone structure of the animal. Check the hind legs for straightness and there is no evidence of cow hocks (where the hind legs are turned so the toes are pointing outward). Check for pinched hindquarters (where the hindquarters taper towards the tail and are not well rounded). Check vent, especially a buck to be sure both testicles are noticeable. Check toe nails and eye colors to be sure it is the appropriate color via the Standard of Perfection, which can be purchased on the website for ARBA, it is listed under publications. If it will be your first show or breeding rabbit you purchase, it helps to have the Standard of Perfection with you as a reference to what you want. Remember, there may be no such thing as a perfect Dutch, but there is a difference between a good and a bad Dutch. Life Span The average adult Dutch Rabbit will weigh between 4 to 5 ½ pounds and on average will live 5 to 8 years Longer life spans can be expected if the animals are neutered or spayed. The longest life span that has been reported is 15 years with 10 years not all that uncommon. Summary Today Dutch remain one of the most popular rabbits, both as pets and show animals – not to mention as stars of rabbit product advertisements. The Dutch is one of the very best breeds for a child to start with due to its small size, general hardiness, and gentle disposition. In America, the breed is supported by a close-knit body of fanciers called the American Dutch Rabbit Club. https://lafeber.com/mammals/dutch-rabbit-breed-info/#Dutch_Rabbit_History http://www.home.netspeed.com.au/reguli/DutchRabbit.htm http://mom.me/pets/small-pets/19118-popular-pet-rabbit-breeds/item/dutch-rabbit/ http://www.bunnybunch.nl/informatie/konijnenras-hollander http://www.dutchrabbit.com/aboutthebreed/aboutthebreed.html http://www.verlannahill.com/AboutDutch.htm http://rabbitbreeders.us/dutch-rabbits http://www.roysfarm.com/dutch-rabbit/ https://www.raising-rabbits.com/dutch-rabbit.html Folk-Tale Ossaert Ossaert (also known as Oessaart, Oschaert, Osgaard, Osschaart, Oeschaart and Griepke) was once an ordinary dog that belonged to his owner: Bornes (Henricus Bornius, 1617-1675). His owner was an infamous man, known for his cruelty. He found no peace in the afterlife, and neither did Ossaert. Both of them remained to haunt their residence in Kloosterzande, until the building was demolished in 1856. Ever since, Ossaert became a notorious water demon, both in Zeeland, Gelderland and parts of Belgium. Most prominently, he appears in the form of a black dog with firey eyes. It is said he also takes the shape of a rabbit, horse or donkey, and that he can expand in size. Again others say he appears as a bull with a human head, always pulling heavy chains where he goes. Some people even described him as a blue light. http://www.pitt.edu/~dash/type0570.html#ashliman Jesper the Hare Herder Denmark There was a king who had half a hundred hares. He also had a daughter who was exceptionally beautiful. Many suitors came to her, but none succeeded, for her father had decreed that he would give her in marriage only to the person who could tend half a hundred hares for three days in the woods, bringing them all back to the palace every evening. Anyone who attempted to do this, but failed, should have three strips of skin cut from his back, with salt and pepper sprinkled into the wound. He would then be banished from the land or be fined five hundred thalers. In spite of these harsh conditions a number of suitors tried their luck, but none of them succeeded. Now there was a man who had three sons: Povl, Per, and Jesper, and they wanted to try their luck. Povl, the oldest, presented himself first, and was accepted into service. The next morning he went out with the hares. As soon as they had closed the gate the king said, "You must take care of them," but they were hard animals to care for, because as soon as they were outside they scattered in all directions. Povl saw no more of them, although he ran hither and thither, both far and wide. He had brought a snack with him from the palace, so when he got hungry he sat down to eat. Then an old woman came up to him and said, "Won't you give me a bite from your snack, little chap?" "No, I won't. I don't have enough for myself," he said. "Just be on your way." "Yes, I'll have to be off again," she said, and went on her way." After Povl had eaten, he of course again began to think about collecting the hares. "It doesn't look good," he said to himself. "How shall I find the hares and gain control over them?" He ran, and he sought, but he could not round up the hares, and in the evening he came back to the palace empty-handed. Then three strips of skin were cut from his back; pepper and salt were sprinkled into the wound; and finally he was banished from the land, for he had no money to pay the fine. At home his parent heard the news, and they were very discouraged. Nonetheless, Per, the second brother, wanted to try his luck as well. He reported to the palace and was also accepted into service. The king told him that he was to take care of the hares as soon as the gate was opened. But the next morning when they opened the gate, whoosh, the hares scattered to all four corners of the world. And, briefly stated, it did not go one whit better with him than with his brother. The same old woman came to him and asked for food, but he also said to her, "No, be on your way. There's nothing here for you." In the end, three strips of skin were cut from his back; pepper and salt were sprinkled into the wound; and he was banished from the land. The old parents were terribly angered to learn this. But then Jesper, the youngest son, came to them and asked permission to try his luck. He felt sure that luck would be with him and that he would win the princess. Until now he had never asked anything of them. The mother, in truth, held him in the highest esteem, so he was allowed to set forth. Approaching the palace, Jesper met the king behind the barn, but he did not know that it was the king. Jesper said, "Will you go in to the king, greet him from me, and tell him that I would like to serve here as the hare herder?" Why?" asked the king. "The king has proclaimed that the one who can tend his fifty hares for three days shall have his daughter to wife, and I would like to have her. "So that's it," said the king, "but do you also know, that if you cannot tend them, three strips of flesh will be cut from your back? And you should know straightaway that I am king." And thus the situation was decided. Jesper's service was to begin the next day. The hares were driven out, and as soon as the gate was opened, whoosh, they scattered in all directions, and not a trace of them was to be seen anywhere. "This is crazy," thought Jesper. "What kind of hares are these? How is this going to end?" He wandered about in the woods with his lunch-bucket under his arm looking for the hares. Growing tired and hungry, he sat under a tree to eat his snack, when the old woman came up to him and asked if he would not give her a little piece of bread. "Yes," he said, "you may as well eat my entire snack. I probably cannot eat anyway, and here is a big piece of meat; you may have it as well." What is the matter with you?" she asked. "Oh, I have taken on myself to win the princess, and now all the hares have run away. I cannot find them, and because of that I must now be banished from the land and never again see my father and mother." "Right, but we can find some help for you, because you were so good to me. But let's eat first." When they had finished, she took the gnawed bone and gave it back to him, saying, "I have made a flute from it, and when you blow into one end you can bring all the hares to you whether they are ever so far away or whether they are than under lock and key, if they are still alive. But if you blow into the other end, they will run away again to all corners of the world so fast that no one can get hold of them. You must always keep the flute with you, and if you use it right, you probably will have the good fortune to win the princess." Then the old woman said farewell and thank you, and went her way. "Thanks also to you," said Jesper and I can believe that he was glad for this flute, thinking that his difficulties were now over. As soon as the old woman was gone he gave it a try, and everything went well enough. When he blew into one end, all fifty hares came running up to him at once, and when he blew into the other end, they fled away like the wind. When it was evening he blew hares together, and dancing around him they entered the king's gate. The king himself came out to count them, and they were all there. Then he went to the queen and talked to her about what should be done. "We cannot let it be known that such a fellow is getting our daughter." They put their heads together, and at last the king said that the next day the princess should disguise herself and go out to him and seek to buy a hare from him Thus he would be lacking one when they were counted. In the morning when the hares were let out they ran away as usual, but Jesper thought, "Let the critters run. I'll win the princess anyway." Soon afterward, while he was lost in his own thoughts, a ragged urchin girl came to him and asked if she could not buy one of his hares. Her parents, she said, had guests and nothing fresh to offer them. "No, I cannot sell you one," he said, "for they are not my own, and I need a full count in the evening when I get home." Yes, she knew that, but still she asked what he would take for one. Finally he said, "If I lose the princess it would be the worst thing that could befall me, but if you must have one, you will have to give me a kiss for it." Yes, she agreed to do this, and she gave him what he asked for. Then he blew the hares together and gave her one of them in her apron. She made her way homeward, happy about the arrangement that she had made, but just as she reached the gate, Jesper blew on his flute, and whoosh, the hare jumped from her apron and was gone. With a sad face the princess went to her mother and told her what had happened. But she said nothing at all about the kiss. So there was another discussion as to what should be done, and the king and the queen together decided that the queen should go out and give it a try. So that afternoon, disguised in old clothes, she went out into the woods to Jesper and asked if she could not buy a hare. "No," he said, that was not possible, for they were not his own. She begged and promised so well that he finally agreed to let her have one. He blew the hares together, picked up one of them by its hind legs, and said, "If you want this one you will have to lift up its tail and kiss its behind." The queen thought that this was disgusting, but she would have to go through with it rather than to let her daughter marry such a fellow and be plagued with him throughout her life. Furthermore, no one would see her do it. So she got the hare, put it in a sack, and walked toward home with the sack on her back. But just as she was entering the gate Jesper blew on his flute, and whish, the hare jumped from the sack, leaving her standing there with a very sad face. Then she went to the king and told him part of what had happened, adding, "Now you yourself must go there, and do better than we have done. It is all about our daughter's happiness. "Yes," said the king, "but let us see what happens this evening. It could be that he will not bring all of them home." But, in fact, he was tired of the game. "Am I some miserable wretch who cannot keep hold of a hare?" he thought. That evening Jesper blew his hares together, and they obediently followed him to the palace grounds. The king came down and counted them, and they were all there. Well, the third day arrived, and Jesper went out with his hares. A little later the king, disguised as a huntsman and riding a dapple-gray horse, went out as well. Meeting Jesper, he said, "You have many hares out here." "Yes, I have half a hundred," said Jesper. "Would it be possible for me to see one of them." "Yes." Jesper blew on his flute, and all the hares came running up to him.. "Could I buy one of them?" asked the huntsman. "No, that's not possible," said Jesper, "for they are not my own. They belong to the king, and I have agreed to the conditions that if I do not keep all of them, then I will be banished from the land and punished further as well." "Oh, it won't be that bad for you," said the huntsman. "I will pay you whatever you ask for." "I agree with that," said Jesper "Stand by your horse and kiss it right under its tail, and then I'll give you a hare." The king turned as red in the face as an angry turkey-cock. It was terrible that such a simple oaf would dare to say such a thing to him. But he held his temper and thought, "If no one sees it, there will be no shame in it. I'll do what he says." So he stood by the horse, lifted up its tail, and kissed the beast right in its behind. Afterward he got the hare and put it in his saddlebag, which he buckled tightly shut. "It will stay there," he thought. But just as he arrived at the gate and was about to ride through, Jesper gave his flute a little tweet and whish, the hare was gone. "He is a dangerous lad," thought the king, and he was quite abashed that he had had no better luck than the others. That evening the lad came home with the hares at his heels, jumping and dancing. It was a delight. The king came down and counted them, and of course they were all there. In the meantime the queen and the princess had spoken to the king, claiming that Jesper's task had been too easy. The king agreed with them, so after the hares had been counted, he said to Jesper, "By rights you should have my daughter, but I find that you have won her too easily. You must admit that she will bring you great happiness. Therefore it is not unjust that one of these days I should give you a new test. If you can fulfill it, you shall have my daughter. So it shall be." Of course Jesper was not pleased with this, but because he could do nothing about it, he decided that the best thing would be to accept it cheerfully. Now the new task was to be extremely difficult, so there was to be a council to judge it. The king issued an invitation to all the princes and great lords who were unmarried to a grand feast when he would give his daughter away. They came from far and near, and gathered in the palace on the appointed day. After all the guests had eaten, the king commanded that a large brewing vat be placed in the middle of the room. Then he said, "Now, princes and lords, bear witness that the one of you who can tell this vat full of truths, he shall have my daughter." Then they began to tell stories, one after the other, but nothing came from the contest. Finally the king said, "Yes, we probably should have called on Jesper the hare herder. Let him try his luck." So it was Jesper's turn. He was not very good at storytelling, he said, but that could not be helped, so he would just relate how it went the other day when he was looking after the king's hares for the first time: "A girl in ragged clothes came to me and wanted to get a hare from me. She begged long and hard, finally promising to give me a kiss for one. She got the hare, and I got the kiss. And this girl was the princess, is that not so?" They all looked at the princess, and she turned red in the face, but then stood up and said yes. "Do you want to hear more?" asked the boy. "Yes, the vat is not yet full," said the king. So he continued: "In the afternoon of the same day an old woman came to me, and she too wanted to get a hare from me. At first I said no, but she kept begging, and finally I promised her a hare on the condition that she kiss its behind, and she did it too. And that woman was the queen. " "What are you saying?" cried the king. He stood up, and they all stood up as all. "Oh, never mind, let him have our daughter," said the queen. Everyone stared at her, and the boy said, "Is it not true?" "Yes," she admitted, but did not relate the whole story. "Should I tell any more truths?" said the boy. "Yes, the vat is not yet full." So he began again: "On the third day I went out with the hares, and a huntsman came by, riding on a dapple-gray horse, and he wanted to buy a hare from me, offering me gold or whatever I wanted, if he could have one. We finally agreed on a price: He was to stand by his horse, lift up its tail, and kiss its behind. I could see that he did not want to do this, but finally he did so anyway. And this huntsman was no one other than ..." "Stop! Stop! That's enough! That's enough! The vat is now full," said the king. He had heard enough. So Jesper got the princess and half the kingdom. The king put on the wedding, and it was so joyful that it was heard throughout the land. Jesper sent for his parents, so they too could be present, and I was there as well. I did not leave until late at night. They did not let me go until they had given me some of the wedding feast. I got beer in a scarf and bread in a bottle. Then they gave me a paper gown, a hat made of butter, and a pair of glass clogs for my feet. As I went outside the door my butter hat melted, and it ran down around my ears; and when I reached the pavement my glass clogs shattered. Then the wind tore my paper gown apart. I was about to eat a piece of bread to give myself strength, but when I broke the bottle to get at it, the bread fell into the dirt in the street. When I opened the scarf to drink a drop of beer, the beer ran out into the gutter. So there I stood, naked and barefoot and hungry and thirsty. As I stood there they shot a cannon salute for Jesper and the princess. The cannonball came flying by, but I was quick and jumped on it, and thus I was shot home to the others in order to tell them this story.  Word of the week:  Measure       © Copyrighted

One of the newest rabbit breeds, named for the mane of long hair standing up in a fringe around the head. They are small rabbits, lively and energetic but good-natured. The Lionhead is a fairly short-furred little rabbit, with the exception of a mane of long wool around the face, neck, and possibly low on the flanks. They do look a like little lions. Origins The Lionhead gene is the first major mutation in rabbits since the Satin in 1932, and unlike other fur gene mutations it is dominant. This means that a Lionhead rabbit crossed with a normal rabbit will still pass on the 'mane' gene to some offspring, producing more Lionheads. We are going to explore the origins of the LionHead rabbit. There are differing accounts of where the Lionhead mutation first occured; some sources say it originated in Belgium, as a result of crossing Swiss Fox with Belgian Dwarf rabbits to create a long-coated dwarf rabbit, with the progeny then bred with the Dwarf Angora. Introduction to the Lionhead Breed Over in Europe... There has been a lot of speculation on how the Lionhead rabbit began. Bob Whitman, who was a very knowledgeable rabbit history buff and enthusiast, spent many hours researching the beginnings of this breed. He believed that the precursor of the Lionhead dated back decades earlier than first thought. Another widely held belief holds that they originated in Belgium in a litter of bunnies that was the result of the crossbreeding of the Swiss Fox and a Belgian Dwarf in which a genetic mutation produced an early version of the mane we have come to recognize on today's' Lionhead. Other crosses to a smaller wool type breed may have also been included in the crossbreeding. Some sources list the Jersey Wooly, although more accurately it would be the European Dwarf Angora (in the USA we have no Dwarf Angora so the name Jersey Wooly was added here). In the early 1960's the Lionhead rabbit appeared as a genetic mutation in a litter of rabbits in France and in crossbred litters in Belgium. The breeders were actually trying to produce a long-coated Dwarf. The parents of the crossbred litter was a Swiss Fox and a Belgian Dwarf. The exact trail of their development has been lost, however rabbits with "beards" were present in France in the mid-1960's. Ms. Meg Brown, renowned rabbit expert of Scotland, reported that these "bearded rabbits" closely resembled today's lionheads. Many experts believe that the lionhead rabbit originates from a crossing between a Swiss Fox and a Netherland dwarf rabbit, there is however no scientific evidence. Others state that the lionhead is a crossing between a Jersey Wooly and a Netherland dwarf but they can’t support their hypothesis with evidence. Although it is not likely that we will ever find out their true origination we can assume it is one of the mentioned theories. An undesirable trait in the Dwarf Angora, attempts were made to set the gene in a new breed, 'Téte de Lion'. Whatever its origins, the Lionhead certainly originated in Europe, and the Dwarf Angora played an important role in its early development. Belgian breeder Mr. Ronny de Clerq began breeding Lionheads in 1970. Through in-breeding and cross-breeding, he is credited with stabilizing and enhancing the breed as it is known today. At first weighing 3 kg (6.6 pounds) or so, he crossed his Lionhead bunnies with smaller dwarf breeds. This reduced the size of the breed, and it also introduced multiple color genes into the gene pool. Later, the breed was imported into England where continued crossbreeding of small breed rabbits and additional wool breeds were done. These cross-breedings made in Europe and in England created the current EUROPEAN LIONHEAD RABBIT. The one thing that we know for sure is that the result of the Lionhead, however they came about, was the first true gene mutation since the 1930's. Here in America... The first Lionheads that were used as a basis for any concentrated breeding programs in the United States were imported in 2000 by the late JoAnne Statler of Minnesota. In the following years, other breeders brought additional stock into this country. Tom Coats of Maryland, Theresa Mueller and Cheryl Rafoth of Washington State, Toni Tubbs, also of Washington and the late Bob Whitman of Rare Bits & Pieces in Texas also imported Lionheads from Europe. These imports, along with hybridizations made throughout the United States have produced the American version of the Lionhead Rabbit as we know it today. The five Lionheads that were first brought into Northern Minnesota were of very different varieties: a Silver Tipped Steel doe, a dark Siamese Sable buck(carrier of the Harlequin and Steel), a Harlequin (Black/Orange) doe, a Broken Chestnut Agouti buck and a Black sport buck (with a Dutch blaze, a carrier of the Vienna/BEW gene). In an attempt to broaden the gene pool, several Minnesota breeders began crossing the Lionheads to various other small breeds such as Netherland Dwarf, Britannia Petite, Polish, and Florida White. Holland Lops have also been used by some in the Lionhead breeding program. The North American Lionhead Rabbit Club was born... The North American Lionhead Rabbit Club (NALRC) was founded on September 29th, 2001 at the Minnesota State Rabbit Breeders Association State Show held in Elk River, Minnesota. Since then, I have grown to a club of over 300 members. The NALRC hosts a National Lionhead Rabbit show the first weekend in May in Columbus, Ohio each year. The club publishes an information packed quarterly Newsletter called the Mane Musings, and all new members receive a Guidebook and membership card. Each calendar year, the NALRC sponsors a Lionhead Sweepstakes contest. The first NALRC National Exhibition Show was held... The first NALRC National Lionhead Exhibition Show was held in May of 2003 in Columbus Ohio. The show was judged by Eric Bengtson. The show had an overwhelming entry of 204 Lionheads. At that first show, Lionheads were shown the same way as the Netherland Dwarf breed with varieties judged first, followed by selection of best in each group. This type of judging was used in hopes of persuading the ARBA to revisit the question of allowing the Lionhead Breed to enter the ARBA Standard Book as a breed shown in groups and not varieties. When the ARBA Standards Committee met during the 2003 ARBA Convention, a formal request made by Bob Whitman to make that change was denied. Every year since the first show in 2003, the NALRC continued to hold an annual National Lionhead Exhibition Show on the first Saturday in May, in Columbus, OH in conjunction with the Ohio State Rabbit Breeders Association (OSRBA) annual show. Varieties on COD were judged individually, and all competed for Best of Breed. NALRC will continue to hold a national breed show in the Spring every year, but with the recognition of the breed came the ability for ARBA chartered clubs to bid to host the specialty in other areas of the country. The Lionhead is one of the newest rabbit breeds and has been developed following a genetic mutation that causes the growth of a longer 'mane' of hair around the head. In nature, mutations occur quite frequently, and many breeds result from a mutation that is fixed through a selective breeding programme. Rabbits with the 'mane' gene were imported to Britain and bred with other small wool breeds and Dwarf breeds, to develop the Lionhead breed as we know it today. The Netherland Dwarf has had a particularly strong influence in establishing the compact body shape and small ears of the breed standard, and also introducing a wide variety of colors. Some people refer to this breed as Lionhaired, which is not an official name but generally understood to be a collective term referring to the hair type, the miniature version and the lop eared version, the mini-lion lop or dwarf lionhead. Sometimes the Lionhead rabbit is referred to as the 'Teddy Bear' rabbit, but this is also incorrect, as this name was initially linked to the Angora breed. Chronological History of the Lionhead Rabbit for the BRC 1995 Derek Medlock and Joyce Taylor were in Bruges for a rabbit show. A friend was collecting 12 Lionheads and Derek and Joyce, having already been introduced to the Lionhead at the Cambridge show by Mary Page went with him. When they arrived there were 21 rabbits and Joyce said that she would like the ones that their friend did not want. She was given the choice of color and chose Sooty Fawn, the rest as they say, is history. Recognition in UK It took more than 4 years to complete the process. Already in 1998 the Breeds Standards Committee (BSC) had a meeting where they spoke about the Lionhead breed. A year later a standard was proposed to the BSC to which they agreed. In the following years the working standard was accepted and an official lionhead club was founded. This club became part of the much broader rare varieties club. 1999 A proposed standard was put to the Breed Standards Committee and agreed provisionally. Mr and Mrs Gaunt were to be secretaries of the Lionhead Club under the umbrella of the Rare Varieties Club. Clarinette Stud were Best Unstandardised with a Harlequin buck at Bradford As from the year 2000 several presentations were held at the Bradfrord Championship Show in different colors. In 2000 The Working Standard was agreed by the Breed Standards Committee with the ring size to be 'C'. First Presentation of the Harlequin Lionhead at Bradford Championship show. You may be interested to know that the Judge was Mrs. Pam Honour, she was obviously impressed as she is now breeding and showing Lionheads. Clarinette Stud went Best Unstandardised with a Blue Lionhead. London Championship show - 1st presentation by Dee Millen of Agouti, Chin, Opal, Magpie and in partnership with Carmill Stud - Red Eyed White. 2001 The 2nd Presentation of the Harlequin Lionhead at Bradford Championship Show. 1st Presentation of the Blue Lionhead at Bradford. 2nd Presentation of Agouti, Opal, Magpie and REW, The Chinchilla had, with permission from BRC, changed homes to Sandoval Stud. 2002 Schlegel and Davies were Best Unstandardised with a Chocolate Lionhead The third and final Presentation of the Harlequin Lionhead. (Harley, the rabbit that won Best Unstandardised in 1999 was in this Presentation) 2nd Presentation of Blue Lionhead at Bradford The major breakthrough was at the first of may in 2002. Just several days after the latest Bradford show ended the British Rabbit Council (BRC) decided to officially recognize the Lionhead rabbit breed. The BRC standardized the Lionhead rabbit in all of its available colors. A week after Bradford the BRC Management Committee agreed to standardize the Lionhead in all recognized colors from May 1st. Therefore there are no restrictions for showing your lionhead in the UK, all colors can compete for best of breed and best in show March 23rd - National Lionhead Rabbit Club granted official recognition as the National Club for the breed. May 1st - STANDARDISATION AS IT IS TODAY May 5th - First stock show at Southern Championship show at Bognor Regis. Recognition in US I will circle back on some of the history we already covered to explain how the recognition developed. Bob Whitman, whom we have discussed on other episodes, was a highly respected rabbit enthusiast, breeder and author on all things rabbit and particularly enjoyed the more unusual breeds. He passionately researched rabbit history on his favorite breeds and spent many hours researching the beginnings of the Lionhead breed. He also held a COD for this breed. He believed the Belgian dwarf and Silver fox cross theory and also that other crosses to a smaller wool type breed may have also been included in the crossbreeding. Bob wrote a very good book called 'Domestic Rabbits and their Histories' which includes descriptions about the Lionhead rabbit breed, which we will have a link to in the show notes. Further development involved European Dwarf Angora also known as a Jersey Wooly in the USA. Later, the breed was imported into England where continued crossbreeding of small breed rabbits and additional wool breeds were done. This crossbreeding made in Europe and in England created the current European Lionhead rabbit we know today. In contrast with their relatively late arrival in the United States the Lionhead Rabbit was already very popular in Europe during the late eighties. The first Lionheads that were used as a basis for any concentrated breeding programs in the United States were imported in 2000 by the late JoAnne Statler of Minnesota. In the following years, other breeders brought in additional stock of which Bob Whitman was one, who also imported Lionheads from Europe. These imports, along with hybrids made throughout the United States, have produced the American version of the Lionhead that we see today. The first lionhead rabbit was imported in 2000, it would however take more than 14 years before the standard committee of the American Rabbit Breeders Association would stand (ARBA) would officially recognize the lionhead rabbit breed. The five Lionheads that were first taken into Northern Minnesota were of very different varieties: Silver Tipped Steel doe Dark Siamese Sable buck (carrier of the Harlequin and Steel) Harlequin (Black/Orange) doe Broken Chestnut Agouti buck Black sport buck (with a Dutch blaze, a carrier of the Vienna/BEW gene) In an attempt to broaden the gene pool, several Minnesota breeders began crossing the Lionheads to various other small breeds such as Netherland Dwarf, Britannia Petite, Polish, and Florida White. Holland Lops have also been used by some in the Lionhead breeding program which went on to produce lop eared mini lions. NALRC The North American Lionhead Rabbit Club was founded on September 29th, 2001 at the Minnesota State Rabbit Breeders Association State Show held in Elk River, Minnesota. The first NALRC National Lionhead Exhibition Show was held in May of 2003 in Columbus Ohio. The show had an overwhelming entry of 204 Lionheads. At that first show, Lionheads were shown the same way as the Netherland Dwarf breed with varieties judged first, followed by selection of best in each group. The first attempt to get the breed recognized in the United States was made by Arden Wetzel of Minnesota who held the first COD for the breed. He made his first presentation attempt in 2004 during the ARBA Convention held in Rhode Island. The attempt in 2004 failed in all five colors. He then made a second attempt in 2005 at the ARBA Convention in Indiana. Arden was successful in Tortoise in 2005 which meant the breed moved forward in Tortoise only. As of 1 February 2014 the ARBA officially recognized the breed in the varieties Tortoise and Ruby Eyed White (REW). hope of persuading the ARBA to revisit the question of allowing the Lionhead breed to enter the ARBA Standard Book as a breed shown in groups and not varieties. When the ARBA Standards Committee met during the 2003 ARBA Convention, a formal request made by Bob Whitman to make that change was denied. Here is an invaluable new reference book, bringing years of experience, research and information together into one handy publication. Over 200 breeds have been meticulously researched, making this title indispensable reading for all rabbit enthusiasts.   COD "Certificate of Development" The COD process involves presenting the breed to the ARBA Standards committee at the organization's annual convention and show. This process requires that there be three successful presentations within five years in order for the breed to become recognized, and included in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. At this time there are several Certification of Development (COD) holders that try to get their variety officially recognized. In order to achieve this they must have 3 successful show presentations, this has to happen within 5 years. The current breed COD presenter is Theresa Mueller of Seattle, Washington. She made her first successful presentation at the 2010 ARBA Convention in Minneapolis, MN in November, 2010 in the varieties of REW, Black Tortoiseshell and Black. In November 2011, at the 88th ARBA Convention in Indianapolis, Indiana, the Mueller Lionhead presentation was assessed one fail in each variety (REW, Black Tortoiseshell and Black) due to disqualification of one junior animal in each variety having transitional wool on the flanks that exceeded the allowable maximum length. The ARBA Standards Committee then allowed Mueller to make a few changes to her proposed working breed standard, and also allowed the grouping all four varieties of Tortoiseshell (black, blue, chocolate and lilac) for her 2012 presentation. In October 2012, at the ARBA Convention in Wichita, Kansas, the Ruby-Eyed White (REW) and Black Tortoiseshell passed their next attempt at second presentation, therefore both varieties needed one more successful presentation at the ARBA Convention in October 2013 in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania for the breed to become recognized. The black variety did not pass, which ended Mueller's presentation process for that variety. In October 2013 the lionheads passed the evaluation by the standards committee in the colors of Ruby Eyed White and Tortoise. Those colors will are the only recognized colors, for now. Beginning with the 2014 ARBA convention in Ft.Worth, Texas other colors will begin the presentation process and attempt to also become accepted, show-able colors. As of February 1st, 2014 they have been eligible to show for Best in Show and receive legs of Grand Champion like any other of the accepted breeds. Despite the growing number of Lionhead breeders and excellent Lionheads crossing the unofficial show tables every year, the new breed turned out to be a hard sell to the ARBA. Eventually, however, certificates of development were issued. Lionheads finally passed their third showing at the 2013 ARBA convention, and have been eligible for competition at ARBA shows since February 2014. As of February 1, 2014, Lionheads have become officially recognized in the United States as the 48th rabbit breed of the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in the varieties of Tortoise (all 4 colors) and REW. This means that Lionheads in those varieties will be eligible to win legs of Grand Champion and compete with other breeds for Best In Show at ARBA sanctioned shows. They are also able to be registered with ARBA in REW and Tort, and receive certificates of Grand Champion. As of December 1, 2016 Chocolate and Seal were added to the list of recognized ARBA varieties. Per ARBA rules, show secretaries are not obligated to accept entries in any other variety except Tortoise, REW, Chocolate and Seal; however, most varieties on COD will most likely be allowed to be shown for exhibition, as may other colors that are not on COD. This means that they will be allowed to compete for Best of Variety (BOV) and Best Opposite Sex of Variety (BOSV), but will not be allowed to compete for legs of Grand Champion, Best of Breed (BOB), Best Opposite Sex (BOS) or Best In Show (BIS). Congratulations on the acceptance of the following new breed varieties at the 2016 ARBA National Convention in Del Mar, California: Lilac Havana, Chocolate & Seal Lionheads, Himalayan & Squirrel Mini Satins, and Blue New Zealand. Current Variety CODs: Chocolate, and Seal HAVE SUCCESSFULLY PASSED THE PRESENTATION PROCESS AND WILL BE ADDED TO THE BREED STANDARD AS RECOGNIZED VARIETIES EFFECTIVE DECEMBER 1, 2016. Sable Point and Siamese Sable will make their attempts at successful 3rd Presentation in Indy in 2017. BEW (Blue-eyed White) will be eligible to present in 2017. Black has recently been awarded a COD and will be eligible to begin the presentation process in 2018. Recognition in Europe? Strangely, the Lionhead rabbit is not a recognized breed in Europe nor has it been standardized anywhere. However there is an International Breeds Standard Confederation, otherwise known as The European Confederation of Rabbits, Pigeons and Poultry. (EE) Just like the BRC and the ARBA, the EE will oversee any new European breed and it must be breeding true to the original progenitor for at least four to five years before initial acceptance. Understanding how the hair genes work, will shed more light on their probable creation. Genes The gene that gives the lionhead its distinctive 'lion's mane' characteristic is a dominant gene, so breeding a pure-bred Lionhead with another rabbit will produce an animal with a the obvious mane and bib. This gene mutation phenomena is the most recent major gene mutation to happen in rabbits since the Satin gene occurred in 1932. From this mutation, breeders in Europe went on to develop this longer-haired breed of rabbit because of its striking mane and bib. Only a few Lionhead rabbit breeders have been given the official Certificate of Development, (COD). Development Appearance The Lionhead is a small rabbit, weighing around 1.3-1.7kg (3-3¾lbs). Lionhead rabbits have a compact, medium build with a short, broad and well-rounded body. The head is broad, slightly rounded and close-set on the body, with short, upright ears. Size: The Lionhead rabbit is a cobby, well rounded breed - Ring size C Weight: Adult Weight: Ideal 2.5 lbs to 3.5lbs Maximum 3.12 lbs Shape: The Lionhead rabbit has a small, compact body, short, cobby and well rounded, the shoulders and chest broad and well filled. The head should be bold, with good width between the eyes but not quite round from all sides, with a well-developed muzzle. There should be no visible neck. The hindquarters broad, deep and well rounded. Their legs are of medium length and they are of medium bone, not too fine with a stance to be high enough to show the full chest and mane. Ears: The Lionhead ears are not to exceed 3 inches (7.5cm) long. They are upright open ears, well covered, of good substance, but not furnished as an Angora. The ears should be balanced with the head and body. Eyes: The Lionhead rabbit should have bold and bright, eyes. The white coated lionheads should have red or blue eyes (the BEW not accepted by the ARBA). The eyes of any other color should be as per color standard. Self Varieties Ruby Eyed White Lionhead REW or Ruby Eyed White (Red Eyes) Pure white coat and undercoat. Notes: If the eyes are blue the rabbit is a BEW (Blue Eyed White). black lionhead rabbit Black (Brown Eyes) Rich uniform black color over entire body. Undercoat is dark slate blue. Lionheads may have a slight diffusion of the black color in their wool due to the nature of the wool itself. Newborns will be black on their entire body including belly and insides of the ears. Lionhead Rabbit Varieties The ARBA recognise the Lionhead breed in the following varieties: Tortoise - Black Blue Chocolate Lilac Ruby Eyed White - REW The BRC recognize all colors as long as they conform to a recognized color and pattern. The following color descriptions are based on the current breed standards, not all from the ARBA but will offer some guidance to the Lionhead colors and the way they can be seen on the breed, both in the adult rabbit and the kits. Included below are notes on how the colors can be faulted, i.e. if a rabbit does not meet certain color guidelines for that color variety then they are faulted or disqualified from show. Notes: Animals are faulted for having faded color, scattered white hairs, or a light under-color. blue lionhead rabbit Blue (Dark Blue/Grey Eyes) Rich uniform blue color over entire body. Undercoat is also blue. Lionheads may have a slight diffusion of the blue color in their wool due to the nature of the wool itself. Newborns will be blue on their entire body including belly and insides of the ears. Notes: Animals are faulted for having faded color, scattered white hairs, or a light under-color. Shaded Varieties sable point lionhead Sable Point (Brown Eyes) The nose, ears, feet, and tail are to be a rich sepia brown. The color of the points is to fade rapidly to a rich creamy body surface color, which has a creamy white under-color. Darker shading is permissible around the eyes. Newborns will almost look like REWs. Their points take a little bit to develop. Cold weather does affect their points and will make the points darker. Notes: Animals are faulted for having streaks, blotches, or smut on the body. Point color that is so light as to lose the contrast with the body color is to be faulted. Scattered white hairs are also a fault. Animals having a white underside of tail are disqualified. Siamese Sable (Brown Eyes) The surface color is to be a rich sepia brown on the head, ears, back, outside of legs, and top of the tail. The surface color will fade to a lighter sepia on the sides, chest, belly, inside of legs, and underside of the tail. The dark face color is to fade from the eyes to the jaws and all blending of color is to be gradual and free from blotched or streaks. The under-color will be slightly lighter than the surface color. Newborns will NOT be the dark rich color of the adults. They will be a light brown mocha color. Almost a silvery color with a brown tinge. Notes: Animals are faulted that have streaks, blotched, or poor color blending. Scattered white hairs, or lack of darker color in the loin area is a fault. Tortoise (Brown Eyes) On adults the points (ears and face) will be very visible in a dark brown. The undercoat will be lighter than the surface. Newborns will be orange on their back and head with dark flanks and dark insides and outsides of the ears. With the exception of the dark ears they will look like orange babies. Notes: Animals with a white belly or underside of tail are disqualified. Agouti Varieties The Agouti variety has banded hair shafts. The best way to tell is if you can see the rings caused by the banded hair shaft when you blow into the fur. Chestnut (Brown Eyes) The surface color on the top and sides of the body is to be a light brown, ticked with jet black. The intermediate band is to be a well defined orange over a dark slate-blue under-color. The chest is to be a light brown over a dark slate-blue under-color. The under-color of the belly is to be slate-blue. The top of the tail is to be black, sparsely ticked with light brown, over a dark slate-blue under-color. The nape of the neck is to be orange, with the ears laced in black. Newborns will have very dark bodies and will look similar to black newborns. The insides of the ears will be cream colored (black babies have dark ears inside and out). The first few days they will have pink underbellies. A week or so later they will have pearl white underbellies and tops of the feet. Notes: Faults are given to animals that are too light or too dark in surface color, or too light in the color of the intermediary band or under=color. White toenails are a disqualification. Chinchilla or Silver Agouti (Grey, Blue or Light Brown/Grey Eyes) The fur should look silver with black ticking. Blue undercoat. The ears should be black laced. When you blow into the fur you should see prominent rings. This is caused by the banded hair shaft of an agouti. The rings should be off white and slate gray. Inside of the ears, feet, ring around eyes and nose should be pearl white. Underside of the tail and belly should be white or silver. Notes: Animals are disqualified with extreme dark or light color, brown patches of color, or extreme brownish tinge in ring color. Animals without black lacing on ears are also disqualified. Opal (Dark Blue/Grey Eyes) The surface color on the top and sides of the body is to be blue mingled with fawn. The intermediary band is to be fawn over a medium slate-blue under-color. The chest is to be fawn over a medium slate-blue under-color. The under-color of the belly is to be slate blue. The top of the tail is to be blue, sparsely ticked with fawn, over a medium slate-blue under-color. The nape of the neck is to be fawn. Newborns will be mostly blue expect for their bellies and the inside of the ears which will be a pearl white. Notes: Animals that have light color on the surface will be faulted, in the intermediary band, or in the under-color. Other Color Varieties Orange Lionhead rabbit Orange (Brown Eyes) Orange coat with cream undercoat. Back of the ears should also be the same color orange. Inside of the ears, ring around the eyes and nose, belly and chest should be cream. Underside of tail and around genitals should be white. Newborns will be orange on their back and head with dark flanks - they will look similar to a tortoise at birth. The insides of the ears will be white and outsides of the ears will be orange - not dark colored. Notes: Faults include any smut (darker hairs) in the coat. UK Colors All colors found in other rabbit breeds are recognized in the UK, commonly; Agouti, Black, Blue, Butterfly, Chestnut, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Fawn, Fox, Lilac, Lynx, Opal, Orange, Otter, Sable Marten, Sable Point, Siamese Sable, Siamese Smoke Pearl, Silver Martin, Squirrel, Smoke Pearl Marten, Steel, Tan, Tortoiseshell, White (red or blue-eyed) Bi colors (white and one other color), Tri colors (white and 2 other colors) and various other shadings also apply. Fur Type / Coat Coat Lionheads have a normal rollback, dense coat of medium length over the saddle, and some have "transitional wool" on their flanks. The coat should be even all over yet some Lionheads have noticeably longer wool on the cheeks and chest, often with a finer flank line of slightly longer fur running down the length of the rabbit to the tail extending in a line to the groin. A small amount of extended fur around the flanks is permissible on under five months exhibits. Mane/Chest Lionheads have soft, medium length hair on their body, with a 'mane' of soft wool, 5-7cm (2-3inch) long, standing up in a fringe around the head and extending to a 'bib' on the chest. The mane of the Lionhead rabbit is of soft wool thick, with a crimping effect and at least 2"-3" (5cm-7.5cm) in length, forming a full circle around the head, standing up in a fringe around the head and extending to a 'bib' on the chest running into a "V" at the back of the neck. The mane should be between 5.0cm – 7.5cm (2-3in) in length extending to a ‘V’ at the back of the neck, falling into a fringe around the head, creating a "wool cap", with longer fur on the chest to form a bib. The quality of mane between Lionhead Rabbits varies a great deal. At the present time it makes no difference if they are purebred or crossbred. Some will have very dense manes, while others will carry a very long mane but it very thin in density. Some adults are loosing all but a wispy mane. Some adults loose their mane when they molt but then grow them back. Mane Genes The mane gene is dominant, therefore, both parents do not need a mane to pass it on to offspring; however, one parent must have a mane. It cannot be "carried". There are two genes involved – 'M' and 'm'. The mane seems to be a simple dominate gene with 100% of the offspring from maned rabbits (carrying two mane gene -2XM) bred with non-maned rabbits having a mane. These offspring are referred to as F1 generation crosses. It is impossible to tell the difference between purebred and hybrid bunnies as both type- those carrying heavy angora type wool all over their bodies or those with manes only – occur in both purebred and hybrid litters, and often as siblings. Mane Types Typically, the mane is thick, woolly and soft with evident "crimping". Depending on the pair of genes a Lionhead rabbit gets (one from each parent), it can have a double mane (two mane genes) or a single mane (one mane gene). A Lionhead rabbit can have a maximum of two mane genes. The only way to tell if a rabbit is single mane or double mane is when they are first born, past that many things contribute to how much mane they actually end up having including chewing on the mane by themselves or others and mats. single maned lionhead rabbit Single Maned Single mane Lionhead rabbits only have one copy of the gene responsible for creating a mane on a rabbit, called the mane gene. Single mane Lionheads typically do not hold a mane for their entire lifetime. They have a mane that can be around its head, ears, chin and sometimes on the chest and rump. The mane may be wispy and thin and may disappear on some rabbits altogether as they mature. The genotype for the single mane is Mm. Typically their mane wool diminishes as they get older. Single maned Lionheads are usually the product of a purebred double mane Lionhead being bred to a rabbit of another breed (process called hybridization), in order to strengthen a particular characteristic or introduce a particular color into the Lionhead breeding program. Kits born from single manes or hybridization with double manes that do not have manes are called "no maned" because they did not get a copy of the mane gene. Without a mane gene, a rabbit will not have a mane nor will they be able to produce a kit with a mane, unless bred to a rabbit with either a single or double mane. Double maned lionhead rabbit Double Maned Double maned Lionheads have two copies of the mane gene. They typically have a thick mane of wool encircling the head and sometimes have wool on their flanks that some refer to as a "skirt". The geno-type for a double maned Lionhead is MM. A double maned Lionhead is the product of either two single maned Lionheads (will have single manes in the litter) or two double maned Lionheads. Two double maned Lionheads will only be able to produce double maned Lionheads when bred together. Many double-maned Lionheads have excessive fur on the flanks and some can develop tufts on the tips of the ears, these are considered a fault in the show standard. Double-maned lionhead kits are easily recognizable. They are sometimes informally referred to as "gremlins", because of their appearance. Compared to a single maned kit, there is a large difference. "Gremlins" tend to have a V shape on the back, where the fur starts to grow. BREEDING LIONHEAD RABBITS LIONHEAD RABBITS seem to be very easy to breed and most do not appear to have any difficulty kindling. Doe's have about 3-9 kits per litter (Litter size seems to be tied to overall size of the doe with small does under 3 pounds having smaller litters). Most are very good mothers with abundant milk supplies. Breeding Lionheads true to the breed standard is not simple. As double-maned rabbits often develop too much fur, and single-maned rabbits usually lose some of their mane in adulthood, breeding the ideal Lionhead is complex. Babies: Baby Lionheads tend to have longer fur in the vent area, similar to some lop-eared breeds. Therefore they tend to paste up more than other breeds. It is important to check babies that are 2-5 weeks old on a regular basis to prevent infection due to pasting up. If they do paste up, wash the vent area by putting under a light stream of lukewarm water until all material can be loosened and removed. You may also want to put some antibiotic ointment in the area. Many carry wool all over their bodies at first, with most starting to shed it out at about 6-7 weeks, until only a skirt remains. In most young Lionheads, somewhere near 10 weeks this wool will also begin to disappear and should be gone by 16 weeks of age. Some bunnies are born with so much wool on their bodies that they resemble a baby Angora. Some Lionheads never shed out the underwool in the coat to degree that will allow them to shown under the American Standard. Some Lionhead Rabbits carry the wool/mane down their face between their eyes (which is very undesirable under the Purposed Working Standard), and they all seem to have wool on their cheeks (which is allowed under the Purposed Working Standard.) Lifespan Average lifespan of the Lionhead rabbit is 7 to 9 years but as with any of the domestic rabbit breeds, the age is dependent on their care and more importantly, their diet. Personality Temperament The Lionhead rabbit is a breed that is relatively new and still in the development process. Their temperaments can differ between breeders depending on the parent breeds used to produce each line. Lionheads are generally good-natured rabbits, although lively and often timid. Gentleness and understanding are needed to win their trust and bring out the best in their personality. They can be quite outgoing and sociable and will thrive on attention. They are usually energetic, active and playful, and despite their small size, need plenty of space to run and play. They are quite timid when you compare them with some of the other small breeds like the Netherland dwarf but with all rabbits giving them the right king of gentle attention, along with gentleness and understanding will help them gain your trust. Lionheads need experienced handling since they can easily be frightened and because of this, may become aggressive. For these reasons they are not generally recommended with children. Some Lionheads may have a more skittish, or even aggressive nature. The Lionhead is a recent breed and still under development in many countries, temperament can vary quite a bit depending on the breeds used to develop each line. If you intend to buy a Lionhead rabbit, buy from a reputable breeder or rescue centre and observe the rabbit's temperament. When buying a Lionhead rabbit, also enquire as to any hereditary dental concerns. Training Generally Lionheads are easy to train as they are very smart creatures. They can comprehend certain orders like come, and play, eat etc and will respond to their own name. They are also very easy to litter box train and for that reason make very good house rabbits and home companions. Purpose The Lionhead rabbit was originally created as a show breed but has become a very popular domestic pet rabbit. Breed Status The Lionhead rabbit received official breed status with the ARBA in February 2014. Because it is still a relatively new breed there are still some colours and varieties that have yet to be officially approved and are still under development. It has been a recognised breed with the BRC in the UK since 2002. The Lionhead rabbit is overall, a relatively new breed and there will be certain differences in some varieties for some time until the breed develops a 'true' breed status. Lionheads have also been put to Dwarf Lops to create a Dwarf Lion Lops or mini lion lops. Rabbit Care & Handling Grooming The longer wool of the Lionhead's 'mane' needs to be combed once a week to prevent matting and daily grooming is necessary during moult. Young rabbits (2-4 months old) : Young Lionhead Rabbits have a little extra fur/wool on their bodies, particularly on the lower hindquarters area. This body wool will molt out by about 4 months old, and it is important to make sure they have adequate fiber in their dies as they molt this out to prevent wool block. Regular grooming at this stage is important so the Lionhead doesn't ingest to much of their own shedding wool causing a wood block in the intestines. Once they reach adulthood they do not require extensive grooming in the way that other wool breeds do. Older rabbits (4 months and up) : If your Lionhead Rabbit carries excess wool/fur on their body, particularly on the lower hindquarters area, most likely it is a double mane gene Lionhead. These require you to maintain extra fiber in their diet to prevent wool block. Some people feel the double mane gene Lionhead Rabbit will not be showable as adults due to the excess fur/wool, regardless they play an important roll in breeding. Grooming the mane (all ages); The Lionhead Rabbit mane can become felted similar to other wooled breeds, so it needs to be carefully brushed out periodically. Since the wool of the mane is similar to the English Angora wool, it can be pulled out if combed or brushed too vigorously, so it is important to be both patient and gentle. Top Tip The odd chunk of fresh pineapple in their diet, especially during shedding, is a great solution to possible hairball problems, as the acidic nature and other compounds in the pineapple helps to break down any hair that might be caught in the gut. (It acts a bit like drain unblocker!) Teeth Like all rabbits, the Lionhead can develop dental problems and this breed may be more prone to dental disease than other breeds and have more risk of developing hairballs, leading to digestive problems, both of which can be potentially fatal conditions. Their teeth should be checked regularly for signs of overgrowth and their diet should include fibrous vegetables that will help keep their teeth down. Enamel spurs and overgrown molars can prevent them from eating properly and can cause abscess injuries in the mouth so it’s vital that the teeth are kept in good order. Weight Avoid overfeeding. An overweight bunny can find it difficult to groom themselves and if fur is allowed to become soiled with urine or faeces it can attract flies. These flies lay eggs in the fur and the maggots can burrow into the rabbit’s flesh, causing painful open wounds that will require veterinary attention. Disease Vaccines All rabbits should be vaccinated against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease and Myxomatosis and should be treated regularly for fleas, ticks and worms. It’s also worth considering spaying any non-breeding females in order to prevent uterine cancer, which is common in all female rabbits. Outdoors If your rabbit is going to live outdoors their house must be large enough for them to hop at least 3 decent sized hops (surprisingly this can be up to 6 foot for this breed) and be tall enough for them to stand upright on their hind legs. It should be completely weather and waterproof and positioned out of direct sun and wind. The hutch should have shavings and straw on the floor and should also provide a covered area where the rabbit can nest. The hutch must be cleaned out completely once a week and droppings must be taken out every day. A hutch or house should not be the ONLY area where they live. Regardless of whether your Lionhead is going to live indoors or outside, They should have access to a LARGE exercise area when they are at their most active - early morning and late evening. A very large run or secure area of garden will allow them the opportunity to stretch their legs and indulge in their love of exploration. Indoors If they are to live inside, and Lionheads are very suited to indoor life, they can be easily taught how to use a litter tray. They must be provided with an area where they can retire to, hide away and relax completely. A dog crate or indoor cage is ideal but if they are given free run of the house (like cats and dogs are afforded the luxury of, so why not rabbits?) then they will usually find their favourite place, usually under a bed or behind a sofa etc. Just make sure all wires, cables and anything precious are out of the way and off the floor. Be aware that the rabbit could be near your feet, as they love being close to you, and take care not to step on them when you are moving around. Diet This should include good quality hay, rabbit pellets and lots of fibrous green leaves and vegetables like kale, cabbage, carrot tops and dandelions with constant access to fresh, clean drinking water. Handling It’s also worth making sure you know how to pick up and hold your rabbit correctly. Rabbits can struggle and panic if they’re held incorrectly. They’re stronger than they look and can injure their backs if they fall incorrectly or can give you a nasty scratch in their efforts to escape. Clubs & Organizations NLRC - National Lionhead Rabbit club is an organisation for all Lionhead rabbits enthusiasts within the UK. Its prime objective is to encourage the keeping, breeding, exhibiting and development of the Lionhead Rabbit through out the United Kingdom. NALRC - The North American Lionhead Rabbit Club is the official ARBA Chartered National Breed club for the Lionhead rabbit. A place where all people interested in every aspect of the Lionhead rabbit could come together to share information regarding the breeding, keeping and showing of this breed. LionheadRabbit.com - Is an online Lionhead rabbit community that brings together people who have a large interest in this special rabbit. It is free to join and they have a popular Facebook page. http://www.justrabbits.com/lionhead-rabbit.html www.lilymoonlionheads.com https://lionheadrabbit.com/about-lionhead/history/ http://www.lionhead.us/aboutlionheads/ http://www.raising-rabbits.com/lionhead-rabbits.html http://www.rabbitmatters.com/lionhead-rabbit.html http://www.bunnyhugga.com/a-to-z/breeds/lionhead.html https://lionheadrabbit.com/ http://rabbitagroworld.blogspot.com/2010/02/brief-history-of-lionhead-rabbit.html http://www.lionheadrabbitclub.co.uk/lionhead-history.html http://www.lionhead.us/aboutlionheads/standards.htm Cuter than cute, softer than soft, these twelve bouncing bunnies are pictures of pure innocence and charm. Twelve bright and detailed photographs celebrate the world of "bunny hood". The large format features big daily grids with ample room for jotting appointments, reminders, and birthdays. Also included are six bonus months of July through December 2017, moon phases, and U.S. and international holidays. http://mythfolklore.blogspot.com/2014/03/tibetan-folk-tales-wolf-fox-and-rabbit.html How the Wolf, the Fox and the Rabbit Committed a Crime When an evil man gets mad at his enemy, he beats his horse on the head. Tibetan Proverb. ONCE upon a time a wolf, a fox and a rabbit were walking along the road together when they met a wizard carrying a pack on his back. The rabbit said to the rest of them, "I'll go limping along in front of this fellow and he will put his load down and try to catch me, and you two slip around behind him, and when he puts his things down, you get them." Sure enough, the man put his pack down, picked up some rocks and started after the rabbit in hot haste, while the wolf and the fox got his load and ran off with it. He came back pretty soon, when he found he couldn't catch the rabbit, and found his things were all gone. In great grief he started down the road, wondering what he would do and how he was going to live. Meanwhile the wolf, the fox and the rabbit met in a chosen place and opened the pack to see what was in it. There were a pair of Tibetan boots with many layers in the soles, which made them very heavy, a cymbal with a tongue or clapper, an idol of tsamba and some bread. The rabbit acted as divider and said to the wolf, "You have to walk a lot, so you take the heavy boots." And the wolf took the boots. To the fox he said, "You have a lot of children; you take the bell for them to play with, and I'll take the food." The wolf put on the boots and started out to hunt a sheep. The boots were so heavy he fell on the ice and couldn't get up, and the shepherd found him and killed him. The fox took the bell and went in to his children ringing it, Da lang, da lang, da lang, and thought it would please them, but instead it scared them all to death. So the rabbit ate up the idol of tsamba and all the bread and got the best of that bargain. Word of the week: Harem © Copyrighted

Enderby Island rabbit Hello Listener! Thank you for listening. If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per month. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger. Word of the Week: Lucrative Folktale: How the Rattlesnake learned to bite News: Hanford’s Storybook Set to Open Joe Chianakas Pre-Releases The Final Book In His Famous Rabbit In Red Series Rare footage reveals Alice in Wonderland was released as a 52-minute silent movie 100 years ago Girl sews 'Bunnies of Hope' to provide comfort for patients Drones used to target Lincolnshire hare coursers Venezuelan president's plan to beat hunger Vice president's pet rabbit hops into book deal Bill would require pet stores to sell rescue animals Stone Bridge Preserve: Conservation Project Creates New England Cottontail Habitat Amazon Purchases: Facebook Page:https://www.facebook.com/HareoftheRabbit/ Enderby Island Rabbit Breed The Enderby Island Rabbit, which is also referred to as the Enderby Rabbit, is a breed that descended from the rabbits that were taken from Australia to be released on Enderby Island in October of 1865. The animals survived in isolation on the island for almost 130 years, during which they became a distinct breed. We are going to look at the history of the Enderby Rabbit, so be prepared to take a remarkable journey of hope, survival, fortitude, lifesaving, rescue, destruction and preservation. This story is like no other in the world of domestic rabbits. Whales were plentiful in the waters that surrounded the Auckland's and the shores would prove to be rich with sea lions, but at the same time shipwrecks were abundant in the rough and dangerous waters around these six volcanic islands. Castaways would attempt to survive for weeks and months, in hopes of a rescue ship finding them. Back in Australia, the Acclimatization Society of Victoria was formed in 1861, with the aim of introducing exotic plants and animals to suitable parts of the colony and to procure animals from Great Britain and other countries. Shortly after the organization was founded, a gift of 4 silver-grey rabbits was presented to the Society in 1864. In a letter dated 3 October, 1865 Jas. G. Francis, Commissioner of Trade and Customs advised Commander William Henry Norman, of the H.M.C.S. VICTORIA I to search the Auckland Islands for possible persons in distress and 'With the view of making provisions, to a certain extent, for any persons who may hereafter be wrecked or in distress upon these islands, the Acclimatization Society have put on board a number of animals, which will be good enough to let loose on the island." There would be 12 rabbits on board ship that set sail Wednesday, October 4, 1865. So Enderby Island rabbits are descendants of English Silver Greys, (not the Champagne de Argente as previously reported in various papers and scientific journals). In some of the research, I found that Bob Whitmann in his research of the breed had locate Mrs. Margaret Levin, of Queensland, Australia who is the great-great-granddaughter of Com. Norman.- She became fascinated with his research project and has provided pictures of the ship, the commander, her crew and best of all, copies of the journal and logbooks of this historic voyage. It should be noted that Margaret was also a rabbit breeder while living in Victoria. From Com. Norman's Journals. "Saturday, 14th. - No traces of pigs or other animals being observed near here; landed four goats, sent by the Acclimatization Society. Some small patches of English grass growing about the old settlement. Later in the day, one of the men reported having seen a dog. This deterred me from landing some rabbits and fowls as I had intended." There is an error in his journal as he write Monday. 18th and this would have actually been Wednesday. 18th "At 4:30 a.m. started for Enderby Island, and anchored in the sandy bay referred to yesterday, at 5 a.m. Sent on shore ten goats and twelve rabbit; these at once took to the English grass, on which I have no doubt they will thrive well. Weighed again at 7:30a.m., and steamed slowly round the island." The H.M.S.C. VICTORIA I returned to its home port, Hobson's Bay, at 1:30 p.m. Monday, November 27, 1865, having found no castaways. Now it should be noted that this was not the first time that rabbits were let released on Enderby Island. The British "EREBUS" and "TERROR" expedition, of Sir James Clark Ross. These rabbits were killed off by the Maoris who did not leave the island until March 1856. Enderby Island is 1,700 acres in size, cold, windy and with high humidity. Except for the coastal cliffs and rocks, along with a few acres of sand hills, the island is pretty much covered with a dense blanket of peat. The 12 rabbits would thrive and multiply, burrowing into the sandy hillsides and dry peat. In 1867, the survivors of the GENERAL GRANT caught many rabbits, as did the survivors of the DERRY CASTLE in March of 1887. During the next 100 years, the rabbits of Enderby would be up and down in population. In 1874, H.M.S. BLANCHE found the island "over-run with black rabbits". 1886 in a report to the Royal Society of Victoria it was reported that the rabbits were fast dying out or rather starved out, having eaten most all the grass and reverting to thickly set mossy plants. By 1894 the HINEMOA reported "rabbits swarm, and greatly reduce the value of the pasturage ... one of the party shot over twenty in the course of short excursion. 25 head of cattle and many rabbits were reported by Oliver in 1927. In 1932 the pastoral lease of the island ended and in 1934 the New Zealand (NZ) government made the island a reserve for the preservation of native flora and fauna. The NZ National Parks and Reserves Authority approved the Auckland Island Management Plan on January 12, 1987 to eliminate all man introduced animals from the islands. A study by B.W. Glentworth in 1991, showed a rabbit population of between 5,000 to 6,000 rabbits. Rabbits were destroying that native vegetation at an alarming rate and playing havoc with the sea lion pup population. The numerous rabbit burrows along Sandy Bay is an important breeding ground for this threatened sea lion species, as pups would become trapped in the burrows and die. It is estimated that over 10% of the pups would die trapped in the burrows. The Canterbury Chapter of the Rare Breeds Conservation Society of NZ (RBCSNZ), having heard of the rabbit's eradication plan, began setting up a project to rescue a breeding population of the Enderby Island Rabbit through the dedicated efforts of Mrs. Catreona Kelly as Project Manager. Michael Willis and Dr. Dave Matheson, D.V.M. of the Rare Breeds Society along with Wayne Costello and Trevor Tidy from the NZ Department of Conservation (DOC) would travel on board the naval diving ship MANAWANUI, arriving on Enderby on Tuesday 15, September, 1992 at 11 :30 p. m .. A permit was secured to trap 50 rabbits in just a very few days. Various modes of trapping were used, baffle traps and funnel nets at the warren entrances, soft-jaw leg hold traps, proved to be of little use, but 200 meters of wing netting would be the most successful. Rabbits would be trapped from four locations, which were given warren names; Enderby, Stella, Rata and Base. By September 19th, 50 rabbits had been captured, 15 does (females) and 35 bucks (males). Dive teams ferried the rabbits on inflatable Zodiacs back to the main ship in rather difficult swell conditions. Of special note, it was during this recovery, that the last two surviving members of the Enderby Island cattle breed were discovered. The cow, named lady and her calf, which soon died would make world history, as Lady is the largest mammal ever cloned, first cow cloned to have calve, and the first attempt at cloning to save a rare breed, well it's a story all to its own. The 49 rabbits (one died of a back injury) would arrive at Somes Island in Wellington Harbor on September 25th at 6 p.m. to begin a one-month quarantine period, which ended on October 28, 1992. There would be 3 kits (young) born during this period. Each rabbit was carefully inspected, handled, identified with an ear tag and given a permanent tattoo. Rabbits were split into three different destination groups, one for Wairarapa, and another for New Plymouth and the rest for Christchurch. All rabbits born were carefully recorded in the stud book by Mrs. Kelly. All rabbits were the property of the D.O.C. however ten dedicated caregivers would be entrusted with the rabbits, under contract, with the RBCSNZ. In 1998 private ownership of the Enderby Island rabbits would begin as the numbers of rabbits increased. The eradication program took place from February 9 through May 8, 1993 with a team of four people and a specially trained rabbit-tracking dog named Boss. The rabbits would be killed with a green dyed cereal pellet containing Brodifacoum, which was sowed using a helicopter. The last Enderby Island rabbit would be caught and destroyed on April 12, 1993 ending a 127 year period of natural selection. Enderby Island rabbits are the world's rarest breed of rabbit, with less than 300 animals in existence. Most are black, but there are few known cream colored ones and even fewer blues. The breed evolved from the English Silver Greys, and not the Champagne de Argente as previously reported in various papers and scientific journals. A brief background on the silvers from Bob Whitman who had been a collector of old rabbit books for 30 years. In his research some of the earliest works state that the Silver came from Siam and brought to England by traders, other works say that Silver Greys existed thousands of years ago in India and were brought to Europe by Portuguese sailors early in the 17th century. Gervase Markham in 1631 wrote that rabbits with silver tips to their hairs were being kept in warrens in England. It is well documented that Silvers appeared in the warrens of Lincolnshire, England amongst wild rabbit and were known as Sprigs, Millers, Lincolnshire Silver Greys, Chinchilla Silver Grey, Riche and more simply put Silver Grey. The breed was first shown in England in 1860. A buff colored Silver Grey doe took first honors at the Crystal Palace Poultry Show in the "Foreign Class" in 1863. Mature weight at the time was 6 to 9 pounds. Thousands of them were being raised in the warrens of 1850s for table purposes in the larger cities, and the skins were bought up for exportation to Russia and China. The first English breed standard was set up in 1880. The Champagne de Argente was not introduced into the Britain until 1920 and weighed a hefty 9 to 11 pounds. English breeders have perfected the silver breed to have an even silvering over the entire body, including the head, feet and tail. The fur is sleek, with a fly back coat. In one of Bob Wittman's early books, Manuals for the Many the Rabbit Book, circa 1855, there is a wood engraving that screams Enderby Island Rabbit. I quote, "The head and ears are nearly all black with a few white hairs. These white hairs are more numerous on the neck, shoulders, and back; but on all the lower parts, such as the chest or belly, the number of white hairs is greater than those of a blue or black color." So there you have it, a very condensed version of a remarkable story. Some 250 plus generations, of natural selection during a course of 127 years of near total isolation on a sub Antarctic island called Enderby, where a nucleus of 12 rabbits would evolve to become their own breed called Enderby Island. Overall Description The Enderby Island Rabbit is a rare and endangered breed.The Enderby Island Rabbit has a medium length body that features a slight taper from the front to the hindquarters, and the back will also be slightly arched. The head, which is well set upon the shoulders, should be medium in size and it should be in proportion with the rest of the body. There is not a visible neck, and the ears are carried in the shape of a “V”. The eyes are bold. The legs and the feet are fine to medium boned, and the nails will match the body color. In general, when looking at an Enderby Island Rabbit, you will notice that the body is fine-boned and slim. The head will be small, and the ears will be delicate and upright. Body to be medium in length, with a slight taper from the hindquarters to front, with a slightly arched back. Leaning towards a racy look. The head is to be medium in size and in proportion to the body. It is to be well set in the shoulders and show no visible neck. The ears are to be in proportion and firmly set on head. They are to be carried in a "v", not necessarily together. The feet and legs are to be medium to fine in bone and good length. The Nails are to match the body colour. Litters are rather small with 2, 3 and 4 kits, with a record being 8 Weight: Although descended from the Silver Greys which weighed between 8 and 9 lbs the Enderby island rabbit has evolved to be a little smaller with the average weight ranging from 3 to 4 lbs. Coat The coat of the Enderby Island Rabbit is soft and short. The body is rather heavily silvered in most animals, with about 80% silvering. The extremities, i.e., the head ears, feet and tail are much darker and only lightly silvered, with a pronounced butterfly marking on the nose. The coat is unlike the Silver breed, being more open, longer and soft in texture. The youngsters can be rather slow to silver and may require 6 to 8 months to complete the cycle. Adults become more silvered over the years. Faults: Coat too harsh, woolly, thin or short Serious Fault: White hairs in armpits Disqualifications: White patches on colored fur or colored patches on white fur. Colors Enderby Rabbits can come in a few different colors, but the majority of them will be a distinct silver-grey with a dark slate blue undercoat. The ears, tail, and head will be darker and are often black. Slate–Undercolor showing a dark slate blue. silvering on body, medium preferred. Champagne– Under showing a lighter shade of slate blue. Silvering on body seen a medium to heavy. The whole evenly and moderately interspersed with longer, jet black hairs and silver tipped hairs. Head, ears, feet & tail can range from almost black with light silvering. To less of the base color showing through the points, due to an increased amount of silvering in the body Crème - Undercolor orange to go down as far as possible, body color creamy white, the whole evenly and moderately interspersed with longer orange hairs and silver tipped hairs. Darker markings on head, ears, feet & tail permissible with less silvering than the main body. White underbelly is permissible. Evenness and Brightness of Silvering - The evenness of silvering is more important than the degree of silvering. Silvering is to be evenly distributed over the body with exception of head, feet and tail showing more of the base color. A diamond shape of un-silvered fur on the forehead permissible until fully mature.(mask to have silvering) Under 5 months - Slate/Champagne kits are born black. Creme kits are born a fawn color. Silvering starts to show from about 6-8 weeks and can take up to 6 months to come into their full coat. Solid patches of the base color will be seen on the juvenile coat. Under 5's should be judged for their general type and evenness of silvering that is coming through at the time of showing. A diamond shape of un-silvered fur on the forehead permissible until fully mature.(mask to have silvering). Acceptable colors for this rabbit breed include slate, champagne, and crème. Champagne and slate rabbits are actually born black, and crème rabbits are born featuring a fawn color. The body will become heavily silvered (roughly 80% silvering) in most Enderby Rabbits, but the feet, tail, ears, and head will be lightly silvered. I suppose you could say there are two varieties of Enderby Island. They come mainly in the silver-grey but a very small percentage are born cream or beige-colored – a shade produced by a recessive gene You will notice the Enderby Island Rabbit’s distinct silvering begin to appear on the coat at around 6 to 8 weeks. It could take up to 6 months or more for it to come into the full coat. Also, the juvenile coat of the Enderby Rabbit will feature solid patches in the base color. And as the rabbits age, they will become even more silvered. Care Requirements The coat of an Enderby Island Rabbit will become heavily silvered.If you are planning on bringing an Enderby Island Rabbit into your family, you should have enough room for a large enclosure that will keep your pet safe and comfortable. Your rabbit should be able to stand up, turn around, and stretch while in his cage, and he should be able to come out of the cage regularly in order to play and interact with you. You can keep your Enderby Island Rabbit indoors or outside, as this breed is hardy and accustomed to cold weather, but be sure to protect him from predators. Indoors, make room for your pet to run around and exercise outside of the cage, and give him an area where he can get access to fresh air and sunshine. If you want to let your rabbit spend some time outside, you can place your rabbit in an exercise pen, lawn enclosure, or extension hut for safety. Feed your Enderby Rabbit a diet that consists of pellets, hay, and vegetables. You can include grass hays like orchard, oat, and timothy hays, and you can purchase pellets designed for rabbits. Fresh foods, such as dark, leafy greens, should also be provided. Limit the amount of starchy veggies and fruits that your rabbit eats, and always provide fresh, clean water. It was noted that the breed had adapted to eating seaweed. Health Keep your pet’s environment as stress-free as possible because stress alone could lower your rabbit’s ability to resist disease. Like other rabbits, the Enderby Island Rabbit might be susceptible to ear mites, conjunctivitis, bloat, hairball obstructions, and intestinal problems, such as coccidiosis. Rabbit Care & Handling These rabbits can be very affectionate, especially when a treat or food is on offer. They are very neat and tidy rabbits too and you will usually find, especially does have a tendency to keep their nest area in ship-shape condition. They do love being outside and have not really been adapted for indoor environments, the breed being evolved from a very cold, sub-antartic island. Their diet is the same for any other rabbit but just be careful not to overfeed as they can be a little greedy and do not carry excess weight well as they will be unable to groom themselves properly. Temperament/Behavior Enderby Rabbits are prone to being skittish, but you can reduce the amount of nervousness that your pet feels by simply providing him with plenty of attention and gentle handling. When an Enderby Island Rabbit is properly socialized, he will be affectionate towards the people that he has grown to trust. Bond with your pet by grooming him and giving him treats. Eventually, your rabbit might show you how much he loves you by licking and kissing you. They can be quite skittish and nervous and on the look out for predators all the time. This makes them want to naturally burrow and hide. Also keep in mind that, like all rabbits, the Enderby Rabbit is a social creature that is happiest when it is with other rabbits, so if you have the space for two or three rabbits, or you don’t have the time to dedicate to interacting with your rabbit, consider getting more than one. For several years all animals remained the property of the Rare Breeds Conservation Society of New Zealand with breeding programmes being undertaken by individual caregivers. Some animals are now available for purchase by private enthusiasts, and some have even been exported to North America. Clubs Today the Enderby Island rabbit as a breed is not only rare but also endangered. The breed is endangered due to the large number of hybrids formed with individuals crossing the Enderby with other domestic rabbit breeds. The Enderby is not recognised by the BRC (British Rabbit Council) or the ARBA, (American Rabbit Breeders Association). Through the determined and dedicated efforts to keep the breed alive Sitereh and Chris Schouten of Nature's Pace near Christchurch, the Enderby Island rabbit was given breed status by the Rabbit Council of New Zealand in April, 2002 when it was accepted into their book of Standards. It should also be noted that Sitereh, is now the official recorded keeper of all Enderbys. The Enderby Island Rabbit Club of NZ has been created to protect, further and coordiante the interests of all Enderby Island Rabbit Breeders and to assist and extend the exhibition of Enderby rabbits. For a full run down on points for judging, you can purchase a copy of the standards from RCNZ THANK YOU RBCSNZ for saving this breed. Breeders, Clubs & Organizations Enderby Island Rabbit Breeders The following names and contact details are in New Zealand and are all Enderby Island specialized breeders: Elaine & Chris Gilberd, Warwickzfarm, Main South Road, Dunsandel, R D 2., LEESTON 8151. (Canterbury) Phone: (03) 325 4116. Fax: (03) 325 4539. E-mail: warwickzfarm (at) warwickzfarm.com Ava Hunt, 182 Drummond Oreti Road, R D 3, WINTON 9783. Phone: (027) 275 4713. E-mail: ava.hunt (at) xtra.co.nz Lorne and Pamela Kuehn, Waitangi Estate, Kaituna, R. D. 2, CHRISTCHURCH 8021 Phone/ Fax (03) 329 0822 E-mail lpkuehn (at) cyberxpress.co.nz Suzanne Shillito, Perrymans Road, R D 2, CHRISTCHURCH. Phone/Fax: (03) 325 3380, E-mail shillito (at) xtra.co.nz Chris & Sitereh Schouten. Phone: (03) 327 4211 E-mail cands.schouten (at) clear.net.nz For details see Natures Pace. Wee Dram Farm, 492 Oxford Road, Fernside, R D 1, RANGIORA. Phone: (03) 310 6443 E-mail: weedram (at) iconz.co.nz http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/enderby-island-rabbit/ https://www.rarebreeds.co.nz/enderbyrabbit.html http://www.justrabbits.com/enderby-island.html http://www.roysfarm.com/enderby-island-rabbit/ http://eircnz.tripod.com/ http://www.rabbitcouncil.co.nz/rabbit-breeds/enderby-island https://www.teara.govt.nz/en/photograph/38518/enderby-island-rabbits-grazing-1973 http://vetbook.org/wiki/rabbit/index.php?title=Enderby_Island http://www.nationalrabbitassociation.co.nz/enderby-island https://books.google.com/books?id=CI8531CO-dsC&pg=PA321&lpg=PA321&dq=Enderby+Island+Rabbits&source=bl&ots=B9wqB9DgAf&sig=Hg0QyniJ-w3mDSd8ttlboqdXzao&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwir1Zj_tpTWAhWi5lQKHYtRBmU4ChDoAQg-MAc#v=onepage&q=Enderby%20Island%20Rabbits&f=false http://www.nationalsilverrabbitclub.co.uk/?q=book/export/html/45 How the Rattlesnake learned to bite http://www.firstpeople.us/FP-Html-Legends/HowtheRattlesnakeLearnedtoBite-Pima.html After the people and the animals were created, they all lived together. Rattlesnake was there, and was called Soft Child because he was so soft in his motions. The people like to hear him rattle, and little rest did he get because they continually poked and scratched him so that he would shake the rattles in his tail. At last Rattlesnake went to Elder Brother to ask help. Elder Brother pulled a hair from his own lip, cut it into short pieces , and made it into teeth for Soft Child. "If any one bothers you", he said "bite him". That evening Ta-api, Rabbit, came to Soft Child as he had done before and scratched him. Soft Child raised his head and bit rabbit. Rabbit was very angry and scratched him again. Soft Child bit him again. Then Rabbit ran about saying that Soft Child was angry and had bitten him. Then he went to rattlesnake again, and twice more he was bitten. The bites made rabbit very sick. He asked for a bed of cool sea sand. Coyote was sent to the sea for the cool, damp sand. Then Rabbit asked for the shade of bushes that he might feel the cool breeze. But at last Rabbit died. He was the first creature which had died in this new world. Then the people were troubled because they did not know what to do with the body of rabbit. One said, "If we bury him, Coyote will surely dig him up". Another said, "if we hide him, Coyote will surely find him." And another said, "If we put him in a tree, Coyote will surely climb up." So they decided to burn the body of rabbit, and yet there was no fire on Earth. Blue Fly said, "Go to the sun and get some of the fire which he keeps in his house," So Coyote scampered away, but he was sure the people were trying to get rid of him so he kept looking back. Then Blue Fly made the first drill. Taking a stick like an arrow, he twirled it in his hands, letting the lower end rest on a flat stick that lay on the ground. Soon smoke began to rise, and then fire came. The people gathered fuel and began their duty. But Coyote, looking back, saw fire ascending. He turned and ran back as fast as he could go. When the people saw him coming, they formed a ring, but he raced around the circle until he saw two short men standing together. He jumped over them, and seized the heart of the rabbit. But he burned his mouth doing it, and it is black to this day. NEWS: Hanford’s Storybook Set to Open Phase 1 http://www.ourvalleyvoice.com/2017/09/10/hanfords-storybook-set-open-phase-1/ Posted on September 10, 2017 by Nancy Vigran Volunteers have been working with fervor to compete as much as possible of the Children’s Storybook Garden and Farm History Museum Phase 1, prior to its soft opening on September 23. Located at the corner of Harris and Tenth in downtown Hanford, Storybook was the brainstorm of Judy Wait, a retired Hanford teacher. She combined her teaching skills with her love for gardening, and in 2011 with her husband, Larry, took off on a trip to visit children’s gardens around the country. Children’s Storybook Garden and Farm History Museum motivator and director, Judy Wait, shows off Peter Rabbit’s Burrow and Mr. McGregor’s House, just two of the many houses, tunnels, barns and more for children to play in when they visit. Nancy Vigran/Valley Voice Six years later, with some 70-80 regular volunteers and so many in the local community, her fairytale has become a reality, not that she ever doubted it would. “I’m a believer,” she said. “I knew it would happen – it shows how much this was wanted.” The garden and museum have been, and continue to be, developed through a non-profit organization of the same name. The original one-acre property purchase was made possible through a loan – now paid-off through a $200,000 donation through a private donor who wishes to remain nameless. Prior to that a donor-loaner, another private individual, helped ease payments by making them for the organization, allowing funds for progress on the museum and gardens. That donor-loaner has also been repaid in full. The Victorian Burr Home, to become the museum, gift shop and kitchen, was donated by Bill Clark. And, through the donations of so many others including in part, Allen Laird Plumbing, Mike Crain Heating and Air, Randy Mc Nary Construction, Dan Veyna – Sierra Landscape & Design, Zumwalt & Hansen Engineering, Home Depot, Bettencourt Farms, Joe Robinson Concrete and Willie Williams Masonry, Storybook remains debt free. “It’s very grass roots,” said Kate Catalina, a long-term volunteer. “Everything is through volunteers and local support, given with love.” Sponsorships of individual gardens and or building areas have played an important part, as well. Peter Rabbit’s Burrow is covered with sweet potato vine. Entrance to the burrow is obvious, but the exit comes out through the vine. Nancy Vigran/Valley Voice With Phase 1 comes Peter Rabbit’s Burrow, Mr. McGregor’s House, Charlotte’s Dairy Barn, the Woodland Log Cabin and Garden, a Salsa Garden, the Teaching or Kitchen Garden, Nolan’s Critter Creek and Pond, the Topiary Garden, a Pizza Garden, the Three Little Pigs homes and Monet’s House. Each garden will have its own unique features to explore, and a book box holding books representing the inspiration for each, will be placed there for reading. The Teaching Garden will be planted with fall and winter crops by the children in the first field trips. Following groups will help tend to the garden and later harvest, clean and prepare the crops. The Victorian Burr Home is furnished with antiques donated by the community. “We’re trying to set up as in its heyday,” Catalina said. The Tank House, which came along with the Burr House, is also refreshed and will be utilized in teaching water conservation. Storybook is managed and run through its volunteers. However, an educational director and teaching assistant have been hired, each with her own set of experiences. “We were lucky to get these two really special people,” Wait said. “What sold us on them, was that you could just tell they love kids and love gardening, and would love this children’s garden.” Student volunteers are also welcome and encouraged through the Green Teens Club, ages 13-18. They will learn to be docents and readers in the gardens, and will receive community service hours. There is already a 4-H club tending to some of the gardens, as well as members of World Link Volunteer, a foreign-exchange group. Upon completion of Phase 1, Phase 2 will start to come together early next year, with completion of a new bathroom facility. Also in Phase 2 will be the building of the Stone Cottage, the Secret Garden and Celebration Garden. Completion of Phase 2 will allow for Storybook to be available for weddings and other small outdoor gatherings. “I just feel like it is all coming together,” Wait said. “And, it’s beautiful as it is happening.” The Victorian Burr Home, which has become the Storybook Museum, was donated to the project by Bill Clark. Freshly painted and with updated plumbing and electricity, as well as heating and air conditioning, the museum houses various antiques donated by members of the community, and will eventually also house a gift shop. Nancy Vigran/Valley Voice Field trips for many Hanford schools have already been arranged. Any school within the county and beyond, as well as clubs and other groups are welcome to schedule a trip. Storybook will also be open to the public starting with the soft opening. The hours, to start, are Tuesday – Sunday, 10am – 4pm. Storybook will be closed on Mondays. Storybook will also feature a variety of special occasions including its first Happily Haunted Halloween Light Show in October. Some type of children’s event and adult event will eventually be held each month including multi-cultural events, Wait said. Sponsorship for areas of the gardens and buildings are still needed. Monetary donations of $50 can be applied to a foot of fencing, or a brick becoming a border on a walkway. Kings County Board of Supervisors Chair Craig Pedersen, who grew up in Kings County, said the board is excited about the project. “A place where children have the opportunity to explore and grow is a good thing,” he said. “Anything we can do to try and help, we’ll do.” For more information and to volunteer or donate, view, www.childrensstorybookgarden.org/ or call, 559-341-4845.   Joe Chianakas Pre-Releases The Final Book In His Famous Rabbit In Red Series http://www.centralillinoisproud.com/news/living-well/joe-chianakas-pre-releases-the-final-book-in-his-famous-rabbit-in-red-series/809144841 WASHINGTON, IL - The Rabbit in Red series continues! Joe Chianakas will soon release the final entry in the internationally acclaimed trilogy. So, prepare to read "Bury The Rabbit." The release date is actually October 28th, but Joe is set to take part in a pre-release celebration in honor of Zeek's Comics & Games 2nd anniversary this weekend. He and Zak Kalina, owner of Zeek's Comics & Games, join us now to tell us all the details. If you can't make it to this pre-release event, don't worry. You can meet Joe at Barnes & Noble on Saturday, October 28th at 1:00 pm.     Rare footage reveals Alice in Wonderland was released as a 52-minute silent movie 100 years ago where she encounters the rabbit, caterpillar and the Queen of Hearts Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4872458/Alice-Wonderland-silent-film-footage-released-1915.html#ixzz4sVHcSBZ1 Rare footage has emerged of a 102-year-old silent film adaptation of Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. The charming clip from the 52-minute retelling of the classic story, released in 1915, shows Alice going down the rabbit hole and meeting familiar characters such as the White Rabbit and the pipe-smoking caterpillar. Alice, played by Viola Savoy, is also seen swinging a flamingo as a mallet in the peculiar croquet scene, and standing as a witness at the trial to investigate who stole the Queen of Hearts' tarts. The scenes make up a silent film released in 1915 by writer and director, WW Young. It is notable for depicting much of the 'Father William' poem that appears in Lewis Carroll's classic 1865 novel. His motion picture was a precursor of a world famous cartoon. These scenes (including Alice and the pipe-smoking caterpillar, pictured) make up a silent film by writer and director, WW Young. It is notable for depicting much of the 'Father William' poem that appears in Lewis Carroll's classic 1865 novel, Alice's Adventures in Wonderland   Girl sews 'Bunnies of Hope' to provide comfort for patients http://www.nbc12.com/story/36307411/girl-sews-bunnies-of-hope-to-provide-comfort-for-patients MECHANICSVILLE, VA (WWBT) - A Mechanicsville woman says her daughter spent the summer hand sewing "Bunnies of Hope." Karen Wharam Schricker says her mother was diagnosed with breast cancer in May. Her daughter sewed and donated over 100 bunnies that have encouraging names and scriptures on them. The bunnies were placed in waiting rooms of radiation and oncology units. "She wanted them to have something to hold on to, feel a small bit of comfort, and to know someone cared," said Schricker.   Drones used to target Lincolnshire hare coursers http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-lincolnshire-41171890 Lincolnshire Police's Operation Galileo is also using off-road vehicles to tackle coursers. More than 2,000 calls were made to the county's police during the 2015-16 hare coursing season. Chief Constable Bill Skelly said the introduction of drones would prove useful in gathering evidence to put before the courts. More on this and other local stories from across Lincolnshire Last season, farmers said some areas of the county resembled the "Wild West" after an escalation in the level of violence used by coursers. Mr Skelly said evidence gathered by drones would help "bring about a better result for our rural communities... and the right convictions for the worst offenders". However, Alister Green, from the National Farmers Union, said "the proof will be in the pudding". He said he hoped the use of drones, along with other measures, would help act as a deterrent. Traditionally offenses start to rise in the autumn after crops have been harvested, and continue until the end of the season in spring. Last year, coursers from as far afield as Sussex and North Yorkshire were dealt with by the force. Three arrests Hare coursing has been illegal throughout the UK since 2005. The Hunting Act 2004 makes it an offense to hunt wild mammals with dogs. Lincolnshire Police has previously described the coursers as the "scourge of rural England", and said it was doing everything within its power to deal with those involved. On Tuesday, a vehicle and four dogs were seized, as police made three arrests at Braceby, near Sleaford. The force said the season had started earlier this year due to the early harvest. Hare coursing Since 2005, hare coursing has been illegal throughout the UK. The Hunting Act 2004 makes it an offence to hunt wild mammals with dogs The dogs - usually greyhounds, lurchers or salukis - are on a slip lead, threaded so it can be easily released The coursers will walk along the field to frighten the hare into the open The dog catches the hare and kills it by "ragging" it - shaking the animal in its teeth The dead hare is usually left in the field or thrown in a ditch     Venezuelan president's plan to beat hunger: breed rabbits – and eat them https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/sep/14/venezuela-president-maduro-rabbit-plan Venezuela’s government has urged citizens to see rabbits as more than “cute pets” as it defended a plan to breed and eat them – even as the opposition says this would do nothing to end chronic food shortages. The “rabbit plan” is an effort by the government of Nicolás Maduro to boost food availability. Authorities have also taught citizens to plant food on the roofs and balconies of their homes. Maduro’s adversaries dismiss such ideas as nonsensical, insisting the real problem is a failed model of oil-financed socialism that was unable to survive after crude markets collapsed. Hunger eats away at Venezuela’s soul as its people struggle to survive Read more “There is a cultural problem because we have been taught that rabbits are cute pets,” the urban agriculture minister, Freddy Bernal, said during a televised broadcast with Maduro this week. “A rabbit is not a pet; it’s two and a half kilos of meat that is high in protein, with no cholesterol.“ Maduro’s critics lampooned the idea. “Are you serious?” asked Henrique Capriles, a state governor and two-time opposition presidential candidate in a video to response to Bernal. “You want people to start raising rabbits to solve the problem of hunger in our country?” Rabbit consumption is common in Europe and to lesser extent in the United States. The animals are more efficient than pigs and cattle in converting protein into edible meat, according to the United Nations food and agriculture organization. But raising rabbits in significant quantities in contemporary Venezuela would be difficult. The country’s constant shortages, resulting from stringent price and currency controls, would probably leave the would-be rabbit industry struggling to find materials ranging from feed to metal and wire for breeding cages. Maduro says the country is a victim of an “economic war” led by adversaries and fueled by recent sanctions imposed by the administration of Donald Trump.   Vice president's pet rabbit hops into book deal http://www.cnn.com/2017/09/15/politics/marlon-bundo-book-mike-pence-rabbit/index.html The precocious pet rabbit of the vice president of the United States is hopping into a book deal. Marlon Bundo, the Pence family rabbit with his own Instagram account, announced Friday that he is the star of a new book. "Marlon Bundo's 'A Day in the Life of the Vice President,' " due out March 19, will chronicle the BOTUS' (Bunny of the United States) day alongside "Grampa" Mike Pence. In the book, I follow Grampa around all day, as a BOTUS should, while he goes about his duties as Vice President!" an Instagram post from the first rabbit read. The book was written by the vice president's daughter, Charlotte Pence, with watercolor illustrations by second lady Karen Pence, an award-winning artist. Charlotte Pence adopted Marlon Bundo, named for actor Marlon Brando, for a college filmmaking project. Bundo has since gone viral, appearing at official White House events and frequently posting updates in first person on social media. "Marlon has become a national celebrity!" a press release for the book reads. A portion of the proceeds will benefit A21, an organization focused on combating human trafficking, and two art therapy programs, a key aspect of the second lady's platform. Marlon Bundo lives alongside the vice president and second lady and a veritable menagerie at the Naval Observatory. When the Pences traveled from Indiana to Washington days before the inauguration, they disembarked with cats Pickle and Oreo, plus rabbit Marlon Bundo. In the absence of a pet in the first family, Bundo has become an icon in the rabbit world. Days before the election, the family lost their beloved 13-year-old beloved beagle, Maverick. Less than a year later, cat Oreo joined Maverick in pet heaven. "Rest in peace Oreo. You touched a lot of hearts in your little life," Karen Pence tweeted alongside photos of the black and white cat. "Our family will miss you very much." But Marlon Bundo and Pickle weren't the only pets for long; one week later, the vice president, second lady, and daughter, Charlotte, traveled to their home state of Indiana, where kitten Hazel and Australian shepherd puppy Harley joined the brood. No word yet on whether the bunny will go on a book tour.     Bill would require pet stores to sell rescue animals http://www.mercedsunstar.com/news/state/article173332256.html By KATHLEEN RONAYNE Associated Press California could become the first state to ban the sale of animals from so-called puppy mills or mass breeding operations under legislation sent Thursday to Gov. Jerry Brown by lawmakers. Animal rights groups are cheering the bill by Democratic Assemblyman Patrick O'Donnell to require pet stores to work with animal shelters or rescue operations if they want to sell dogs, cats or rabbit. Thirty-six cities in California, including Sacramento, Los Angeles and San Francisco already have similar bans in place, but no statewide bans exist. ADVERTISING "We've actually seen a thriving pet industry based on the model of getting these from shelters," said Democratic Assemblyman Matt Dababneh of Encino. Brown spokesman Brian Ferguson declined to comment on whether the governor plans to sign it. Private breeders would still be allowed to sell dogs, cats and rabbits directly to individuals. Supporters of the bill say it's aimed at encouraging families and individual buyers to work directly with breeders or to adopt pets in shelters. It also would ensure animals are bred and sold healthily and humanely, supporters said. Few pet stores in California are still selling animals and many already team up with rescue organizations to facilitate adoptions, according to O'Donnell's office. "Californians spend more than $250 million a year to house and euthanize animals in our shelters," O'Donnell said in a statement. "Protecting the pets that make our house a home is an effort that makes us all proud." The bill would also require pet stores to maintain records showing where each dog, cat or rabbit it sells came from and to publicly display that information. A violation of the law would carry a $500 civil fine.   Stone Bridge Preserve: Conservation Project Creates New England Cottontail Habitat https://newtownbee.com/stone-bridge-preserve-conservation-project-creates-new-england-cottontail-habitat/ In light of its goal to provide diversity in natural habitats, the Conservation Commission on September 8 provided the public with a view of the markedly changed landscape at sections of the town’s Stone Bridge Preserve, where extensive recent tree cutting has created habitat suitable for the New England cottontail rabbit to thrive. According to the Connecticut Department of Energy & Environmental Protection (DEEP), the New England cottontail is Connecticut’s only native rabbit, and differs from the Eastern cottontail, which is “now the predominant species.” Also, “New England cottontails require large patches of shrubland or young forest, often called thickets, with dense, tangled vegetation.” The New England cottontail has been designated by the US Fish and Wildlife Service as “a candidate for threatened or endangered status,” since 2006. The open space land where the tree cutting occurred lies along Stone Bridge Trail, a narrow dirt road that extends northward from Berkshire Road (Route 34), just south of Nighthawk Lane. The area is adjacent to the Iroquois Gas Transmission System’s cross-country pipeline. The tree cutting in the heavily canopied forest created a young forest and shrublands known as “early successional habitat.” As people toured the rolling terrain where hundreds of mature trees have been cut, they remarked that the tree trunks that lay chockablock across the ground reminded them of the damage that is done by hurricanes. Actually, after loggers cut the trees last winter, they left the tree trunks in piles scattered across the site to deter deer from walking there. The presence of deer damages the new shrubland habitat for the New England cottontail. The habitat that was created also is expected to benefit more than 50 other species. Forester Jeremy Clark, who served as the project manager for the Conservation Commission, provided a tour of the area. Iroquois provided grant funds for a forest management plan that preceded the habitat project. Mr Clark said that some “seed trees” were left standing after the cutting to provide seed for new trees to grow in the area. Lisa Wahle, a biologist who worked on the habitat project, said that the area will be scientifically monitored to gauge the extent to which New England cottontail rabbits have populated the area. Of the habitat project, the Conservation Commission states on its website, “Newtown is committed to providing diverse habitat on appropriate open space properties that will provide, shelter, food, and protection for threatened wildlife that, without intervention, may become extinct.”     © Copyrighted

I would like to thank you for letting me take a week off from podcasting. As you may or may not know I like near Charlottesville Virginina, I will be briefly discussing what happened in Charlottesville this weekend past. I live in Greene county Virginia Susan Bro who is the Mother of Heather Heyer, works at my local 4H office. My children are active with 4h. I have had conversations with her many times about many topics. She is a friend. We have discussed house rabbits because she has had them in the past for many years. She is a sweet lady, and this past week has been a painful week. I know that this is probably not the venue to pour this out, but I feel that I need to. People say that this could never be in my backyard… This was in my backyard. To quote my wife “If this could happen in Charlottesville, this could happen anywhere.” We had a Japanese exchange student staying with us through4H, and we had planned to go to Charlottesville this weekend past. It was a Pre-planned outing. It was the last weekend she was staying with us, and there is a Virginia store on the downtown mall, about a block from Lee (Emancipation) Park. We knew about the protests and being from the school of “don’t do stupid things with stupid people in stupid places”, Charlottesville fell into two of the three categories… We went over the mountain to the Route 11 potato chip factory in Mt. Jackson, then to Harrisonburg and Staunton. We went to a glass blowing factory, and we saw live music. I hoped that they had the police in place to keep anyone from getting hurt, especially anyone that my wife or I might know. I received a notification about a car hitting protesters. We went to the "Virginia Store" for made in Virginia items for our Japanese student to take home to Japan. We came back home on a scenic drive through the Shenandoah National Park. Along the ride, my wife says that Susan posted a message about loosing her daughter standing up for what she believes in. My wife works at the University of Virginia and they found out about the plans for the torch-lit march through social media, and were told the route that was planned by speaking to the march leaders. This is not the route they took. They marched to where the few students that are able to move in early were. The marchers were despicable to the students that were on grounds. The students were moved to a basement to get away from the “Peaceful” march. One of the teachers has had a stroke this week. He was hit in the head with a tiki-torch (Probably a brain bleed of some sort). This was Friday nights activities in Charlottesville. I believe that the Saturday event was designed to push the protesters (Antagonists) together. I had spent a few days feeling angry, and angry at the news for still creating divides. My wife was on edge. I went to a yoga class and stopped reading the news for a few days. To quote the judges father on night-court “I’m feeling much better now". https://youtu.be/3SnGU6Jtxc0 If you want to see something beautiful, check out the candle-lit walk that the faculty, staff and students participated in last Wednesday. There were at least 2000 people that participated in this walk. It was promoted only by word of mouth. This was not promoted through social media for fear of the Nazi's and KKK showing up again. A youtube link to the candle-lit walk is in the show notes. https://youtu.be/cITuxcGlAr8 Now for our One Eared Rabbit breed: One Eared Rabbit Breed Most of the info about this breed is from Domestic Rabbits and Their Histories by Bob D. Whitman. Now it is possible rather then a gene mutation it might be more likely that the mom "over-groomed" it as a newborn. Sometimes when cleaning the blood off of the babies, the mom will accidentally get carried away and chew off an ear, tail, or foot. England appears to be the native home of the "Unicorn of the Rabbit World" which was being bred true to form during the later part of the 18th century. I have been able to find next to nothing on this unusual rabbit, other then a small passage in John Sheail's book, "rabbits and their history" published in 1971. Sheail mentions that the one eared rabbit bred true, and the population slowly increased. However little commercial value could be placed on such a rabbit, and that little notice was taken by the authors of the time. From all indications, it would appear that the One Eared rabbit breed was produced in the Warrens of the day, and was probably of the wild agouti coloration. I have not been able to location any further information on this most unusual mutation. There is a picture of a pair of of One Eared rabbits in the February 1959 issue of the National Rabbit Raiser Magazine. Claude Holbrook of Evansville, Indiana, who raises rabbits for a hobby, got a surprise when he looked into a nest box recently. "Two of the new litter had but one ear - right in the middle of their forehead.". So as rare as the legendary Unicorn may be, so is the One Eared rabbit. http://karlshuker.blogspot.com/2011/10/unicorn-rabbit-from-county-durham.html A pet rabbit that its owner, 9-year-old Kathy Lister of Trimdon Grange in County Durham, England, had very aptly named Unicorn is most extraordinary . Due to a genetic fluke, Unicorn had been born with just a single ear. Yet whereas there are numerous reports on file of individual mammals of many different species in which one or other ear is missing, Unicorn’s condition was rather more special. For unlike typical one-eared individuals, her single ear was not laterally positioned, but arose instead from the centre of her head, standing upright like a long furry horn! Born in spring 1981, Unicorn was a Flemish Giant doe bred on James’s farm, and she subsequently became the much-loved pet of his daughter Kathy. In more than 35 years of rabbit breeding, this was the only one-eared rabbit that James had ever observed. In autumn 1984, Unicorn escaped from her pen, but three days later she was found, recaptured, and placed in a new hutch. Over the next month, she grew steadily fatter, and 31 days after her original escape Unicorn gave birth to a litter of five offspring. As she had never been introduced to any of the farm rabbits, it is clear, therefore, that during her brief period of freedom Unicorn had encountered and mated with a wild rabbit. Of her five offspring, four were normal, but the fifth displayed its mother’s remarkable median-ear condition. Regrettably, however, all five offspring died shortly afterwards during a very severe thunderstorm, so no details of their sex are known. Happily, Unicorn survived, and lived for a further two years, but she did not give birth to any further litters, so the unidentified mutant gene presumably responsible for her median ear and that of one of her offspring was lost forever when she died in November 1986. Judging from the 4:1 normal:mutant ratio of offspring, it is likely that the median-ear condition was induced by a recessive allele (gene form), and that Unicorn was homozygous for it (i.e. possessing two copies), thereby enabling the condition to be expressed by her. If so, then it must also be assumed that her wild mate was at least heterozygous (possessing one copy) for this same mutant allele, in order to explain the birth of the single median-eared offspring in her litter. Yet if this mutant allele is indeed present in the wild population, one might have expected it to have been expressed far more frequently (especially in animals that are famous for breeding...well, like rabbits!). Could it, therefore, be associated with some debilitating trait too, so that individuals expressing it are more vulnerable in some way to predation? The most obvious affliction to be expected that may prove detrimental to survival in the wild is some form of hearing impairment – an occurrence that normally accompanies most ear-related mutations. Yet Kathy had observed that when Unicorn was called, she would turn towards the direction of the voice, thus suggesting that her hearing was not severely impeded (although by having only one ear, it meant – inevitably - that Unicorn’s hearing could only be monoaural, not stereo). Tragically, however, in the absence of further litters from Unicorn upon which to base breeding observations, little more can be said of her apparently unique mutation. So it is likely that its identity will remain undiscovered, unless this remarkable ‘unicorn ear’ condition reappears one day in some other rabbit farm. Through the 2012 edition of Ripley's Believe It Or Not, there is a second unicorn rabbit. Owned by rabbit breeder Franz-Xaver Noemmer, from Egglham, Germany, it was born in February 2010, and has snow-white fur. Now a Book about a one eared rabbit that I found while researching one eared rabbits. Podkin One-Ear (The Five Realms #1) by Kieran Larwood Podkin One-Ear is a legend: a fearsome warrior rabbit whose reputation for cunning and triumph in battle has travelled the ages. But how did he become such a mighty fighter? The answer may surprise you... When a travelling bard arrives at Thornwood Warren on Midwinter night, he is warmly welcomed. In return for food and lodging, he settles down to tell of how Podkin One-Ear - and soon the rabbits are enthralled to hear the story of how one lost little rabbit overcame the cruellest enemy imaginable, and became the greatest warrior their land has ever know. Another popular one eared rabbit is Bongo! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Life_in_Hell Life in Hell is a comic strip by Matt Groening, creator of The Simpsons and Futurama, which was published weekly from 1977 to 2012. The strip featured anthropomorphic rabbits and a gay couple. Groening used these characters to explore a wide range of topics about love, sex, work, and death. His drawings were full of expressions of angst, social alienation, self-loathing, and fear of inevitable doom. Bongo is Binky's illegitimate son, the product of a drunken night of "jungle passion." He was introduced in a 1983 storyline in which his mother, Hulga, left him to Binky so she could seek her fortune in New York. Bongo's defining physical attribute is his one ear, which Groening admits is solely so that the casual viewer can tell him apart from Binky. Bongo made an appearance in the Futurama episode "Xmas Story", where he is seen being sold in a pet shop. He also appeared in The Simpsons episode "Treehouse of Horror XII" as one of the rabbits that Homer catches in the trap. He appears in The Simpsons again in another episode as a plush toy in Lisa's room, though he is called Madam Bunny. He is shown as a plush toy in "The Fool Monty" where Mr. Burns is eating it in Bart's closet. He has a cameo in "Simpsorama" as one of the rabbit-like creatures rampaging New New York, where he writes on a wall "Crossovers are hell" Word of the Week: Sanitary Plant of the week: Coltsfoot News: Now we had an episode about Rabbit Jumping, and the sport has been mentioned a few times in the news recently. http://www.dailyinterlake.com/article/20170817/ARTICLE/170819865 Rabbit jumping debuts at Northwest Montana Fair Onlookers draped themselves over the fence surrounding the bunny jumping competition Thursday at the Northwest Montana Fair. Handlers and their rabbits were spread out beneath the shade of a canopy, some taking time for an extra snuggle with their competitors while others kept a close eye on the competition. Before them was a line of jumps, ranging in height from roughly 3 inches to about a foot. There were roughly 20 competitors who participated in the fair’s first bunny jumping contest. The sport ranks competitors based on speed and how clean their runs are. The event was spearheaded by Glacier View 4-H leader and Glacier Rabbit Breeders founding member KelleySue Bain, who wanted to raise awareness about the burgeoning sport. “Most people don’t even know about it or don’t know that it’s available here,” she said. Rabbit hopping, also known as Kaninhop, originated in Sweden in the 1970s and has a sizable following in Europe — there are more than 4,000 rabbit hoppers in the U.K., Germany and Scandinavia, according to National Geographic. She hosted the club’s first contest in April and introduced rabbit hopping to fairgoers in Missoula last week. Bain has another competition set for Sept. 16, which will also feature rabbit agility, but noted that the contest will be low-key, at least for now. “We’re still trying to keep it really fun because everybody is so new, so we’re not making it really serious yet,” Bain said. “Rabbits are very easy to train and they’re very smart. Some people clicker train them and can get them to do all kinds of tricks. You can get them hopping pretty quickly — at least a little bit,” Bain said. “Sometimes you’ll get a rabbit that just doesn’t want to do it, but definitely the majority of them want to do it once they get comfortable.” Competitors come in different shapes and sizes too. Bain said the September show, which will also take place at the fairgrounds, will be open to youth and adult contestants. Hop to it! Wisconsin State Fair competition includes rabbit obstacle course http://www.thecountrytoday.com/Country-Life/Country-Life-News/2017/08/15/Hop-to-it.html WEST ALLIS — Donna Towell said she had never heard of rabbit hopping — at least not as an official sport — until some of her Waukesha County project members saw a story in a rabbit magazine. “They came to me with this article, and I thought, this is cool, so I made the straight-line course and introduced it at the Waukesha County Fair,” Towell explained. “It really took off from there.” Six years ago Towell and her rabbit project youngsters introduced Wisconsin State Fair visitors to the sport with demonstrations, but for the past three years, the event has been offered officially for both junior and open competition. Five courses are offered at the state fair: straight-line, crooked, high jump, low jump and agility. “That’s like an obstacle course hopping up, over and through,” Towell said. “They have a platform, a teeter-totter, a bridge, an A-frame, a tire and then jumps.” Rabbit hopping will be featured this year at the American Rabbit Breeders Association convention Oct. 1-5 in Indianapolis. More information can be found at http://www.indyarbaconvention.com. Czech university announces new type of rabbit fever http://www.radio.cz/en/section/news/czech-university-announces-new-type-of-rabbit-fever A Czech university has announced the discovery of a new strain of rabbit fever. The discovery has been announced by the University of Veterinary and Pharmaceutical Sciences in Brno after the sudden deaths of scores of rabbits across the country in July. They found a previous version of the fever as well as a newer once which often lasts longer but appears to have a reduced death toll of up to 70 percent compared with the 90 percent death rate of the older fever. A vaccine against the new version is expected to be ready in August. Uni graduate finds riches keeping rabbits at interactive bunny farm https://coconuts.co/kl/news/uni-graduate-finds-riches-keeping-rabbits-interactive-bunny-farm/ A bunny-loving Agriculture Science graduate has managed to make a small fortune from turning his hobby of rabbit-keeping into a booming business. Opening a bunny petting zoo, Arnab Village (Rabbit Village), in Kampung Purakagis, Ranau, Sabah, he’s managed to earn RM300,000 (US$75,000) in ticket sales after a year of operation. It’s become a legitimate attraction on the Sabah tourist trail, conveniently nestled between hot springs, fish spas and tea plantations. He tells The Sun that his farm carries 8 species of rabbits, New Zealand White, Standard Rex, Mini Satin, Lion Head, Netherland Dwarf, Lop Ear, Anggora and the local breed. He started with RM5,000 (US$1,250) of capital for facilities and landscaping, and has been consistently upgrading throughout the year. His last phase will see a restaurant built on the premises. Let’s hope there’s no rabbit on the menu. That would be a bit creepy. Starting with 400 rabbits, he hopes to reach 1,000 by next year. Considering rabbits have a reputation of ahem multiplying profusely, we’re sure he’ll hit those targets soon enough, and then some. Fancy holding a bunny? Arnab Village will set you back RM3 for children and RM5 for adults if you’re a local (US$0.75-US$1.25). Expect to pay RM5 for children and RM10 for adults (US$1.25-US$2.25) if you’re an international visitor. A few Rabbits in the movies: 'Rabbit': Film Review | Melbourne 2017 http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/review/rabbit-film-review-melbourne-2017-1027487 'Rectify' star Adelaide Clemens anchors a psychological thriller about a young woman searching for her twin sister. If Get Out was transplanted to Australia and had its sense of humor confiscated by customs, the result would surely look something like Rabbit. Making its debut in Melbourne but filmed in the leafy suburbs and surrounds of Adelaide, this debut feature from director Luke Shanahan is arresting to look at but exhaustingly portentous, with hometown stars Adelaide Clemens (Rectify) and Alex Russell (the upcoming Only the Brave) gamely committing to the helmer's own script, which withholds any sense of narrative clarity until the closing minutes. Nominally interested in cryptophasia, the phenomenon of twins who develop their own language, this nothing-but-mood piece showcases strong work from its two promising leads and striking location photography. The film begins with a bedraggled Clemens running through the woods, pursued by a hoody-wearing man in black. She runs into the arms of an elderly woman, who welcomes her into her home before restraining the girl with the help of several accomplices. Cut to Germany, where Australian student Maude (Clemens again) wakes up from the same recurring nightmare — or is it a vision of something that actually occurred? Maude's identical twin Cleo has been missing for over a year, and she returns home to figure out if the dream is trying to point her in her sister's direction. She's joined on her quest by Ralph (Russell), as Cleo's fiancé, and an obsessive cop (Jonny Paslovsky) who thinks Ralph had a hand in the girl's disappearance. How Porgs are bringing the cuteness back into Star Wars Read more: http://metro.co.uk/2017/08/12/how-porgs-are-bringing-the-cuteness-back-into-star-wars-6841526/#ixzz4qF34rwm4 There can be little doubt that the galaxy far, far away has delivered some of cinema’s most astounding moments, riveting plot twists and memorable characters. We’ve had the terror of Darth Vader, the innocence of Luke Skywalker, the sliminess of Jabba the Hutt and the wisdom of Yoda. Star Wars changed the landscape of modern cinema in so many ways, but not all of it was about being cool. Sometimes it was about being cute. Think back to the original trilogy. In the original 1977 movie we were first introduced to cuteness in the form of Artoo Detoo. The cutest character in the original (with the Mousedroid a close second), he almost stole the show and ignited a following that endures to today, with the R2 Builders doing such an amazing job of recreating the little droid that their work is seen in the modern Disney era of Star Wars films. The Empire Strikes Back was a darker film that introduced Master Yoda to the series. While he wasn’t conventionally cute, he gained a rabid following of his own. However, the third film was the one that really smashed the cute button. Arriving in the film as our heroes land on the forest moon of Endor, tasked with destroying the shield generator and allowing the Rebel fleet to attack the second Death Star, we first met the frankly adorable ewoks. Hated by some, George Lucas referred to the Ewoks as the little rabbit by the side of the road who helps the hero when they are in trouble. The ewoks were certainly that: helping the Rebellion defeat the Empire on the ground while the fleet took on the Empire in space. Marvel’s comic series also had their fair share of cuteness in the form of the hoojibs. Basically telepathic rabbits, the hoojibs assisted the rebellion as they fought the Empire and became firm favourites with the readers. The Force Awakens smashed box office records in 2015 and brought with it a new level of droid cuteness – BB-8. This diminutive astromech droid well and truly stole the show as he fought alongside Rey, Finn and his master Poe Dameron in their battles against the First Order. Early images and footage from The Last Jedi have revealed what are quite possibly the cutest characters ever to grace the screen in a Star Wars film – the Porgs. How Porgs are bringing the cuteness back into Star Wars Looking very much like puffins, these wide-eyed, open-mouthed, bird-like creatures live on the world of Ahch-To. If you thought the ewoks were marketable (and they were, the fuzzy denizens of Endor were a marketing phenomenon back in the mid 80’s) then you’ve seen nothing yet. With Star Wars fandom online already delirious over the Porgs (seriously, check it out, fans and the staff at the official Star Wars site are losing their minds) there’s every chance these creatures will be the toy of the year, just as BB-8 was a couple of years ago. I would like to thank those that purchased through the Amazon link at the HareoftheRabbit.com website. It looks like we had a few books, disc golf, and headphones.    

Rabbit Jumping or Kaninhop   Learn more about Rabbit Breeds, history, superstations, news, folk tales, and pop culture.  Discover cool facts, Rabbit Care, resources and Rabbit Breed Info at the website http://www.hareoftherabbit.com/ If you would like to support the project, you can support through Patreon for one dollar a month.  Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators.   you can also support the podcast, and help keep the lights on, whenever you use Amazon through the link at Hare of the Rabbit on the support the podcast page. It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what.   Rabbit jumping is a growing sport that is becoming increasingly popular all around Scandinavia. Rabbit jumping exist in other parts of the world as well but it is often not as big and organized as in Scandinavia. The goal is to jump cleanly over a set course within an allotted time. Rabbit show jumping or Kaninhop is modeled after horse show jumping, only on a much smaller scale to suit rabbits. Competitions have been held in several European countries. The cool thing about Rabbit Hopping is that it doesn't matter if your rabbit has a pedigree as long as your arm or if it was bought from a pet shop, it can still do it and WIN!!! Rabbit jumping is perfect for someone who want to spend time with their rabbit and do something fun together! History Rabbit jumping as a sport started in Sweden in the late 1970’s when the first rabbit club started to have competitions in rabbit jumping. In the beginning the rules were based on the rules of horse jumping however, over time the rules changed to better fit rabbits. In the start a lot of breeders were very skeptical of rabbit hopping and thought it was a short craze. In 1986 the sport started spreading all over Sweden. Back then it was held separately in two different parts of Sweden with no contact between each other. In 1987, the first national championship for "straight line easy course" was held in Stockholm, Sweden. In 1991 they met and merged the two groups as a subgroup to the Swedish rabbit breeders association. Rabbit jumping grew bigger still and could not develop as fast as needed. This lead to the formation of the organization we have today. September 3rd 1994 the Swedish Federation of Rabbit Jumping was established. The Swedish Federation of Rabbit Jumping is nationwide. Today they have about 800 members in about 20 affiliated clubs, which are all arranging competitions in rabbit jumping. There are competitions arranged almost every week somewhere in the country. The main task of the federation is to develop the sport and make sure the competitions are fair. They also make sure there are two Swedish championships held every year and an opportunity each year to educate judges for the sport. Another important thing they work with is to have a good connection and cooperation with other countries. Germany joined the other countries in starting their own rabbit hopping club in 2000. Organizations were established in Norway (2002) and Finland (2004). Training and participation with translations for a new set of rabbit hopping rules came from the judges committee in Denmark. 2001 brought forth the Rabbit Hopping Organization of America. The rules and guidelines for rabbit hopping were established for all Americans with the help of the judges committee in Denmark and with personal assistance from hopping judge Aase Bjerner. The American Hopping Association for Rabbits and Cavies (AHARC) was chartered with the American Rabbit Breeders Association in 2013. The rules and guidelines for this association were molded after R.H.O.A. and Denmark. The AHARC held the very first official national competition in the United States during the 2011 ARBA Convention in Indianapolis, IN. The performance competition for rabbits during 2013 ARBA convention in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania was a Mid Atlantic Rabbit and Cavy event. AHARC had the first national performance event for cavies during the 2014 ARBA TX convention. The American Hopping Association for Rabbits and Cavies is the national performance club in the U.S. for rabbits and cavies (guinea pigs) chartered by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). Their Purpose is to help others learn about the performance sports of Rabbit Hopping, Rabbit Agility and Cavy Agility. They are a resource and place for people to locate information about performance events all over North America. AHARC is in the process of developing Rules and a Guidebook for their members. The Rules Committee is currently headed by Tammy Steele. Please contact Tammy at alikattbunnies@hotmail.com with any questions. National Specialty Club - This has been an amazing and interesting adventure. Most people don't realize how much work and commitment is required to start up a national level club. Being welcomed under the ARBA umbrella in 2013 as a National Specialty Club was a rare and long awaited opportunity   Rabbit Agility was developed by the Canadian Hopping Club and by Dell Robins from Minnesota independently of each other. They call theirs a Rabbit Obstacle Course. However they do not use weave poles for their courses.   The Canadian Rabbit Hopping Club, like a lot of things, had a very humble beginning. During their 2005/2006 4-H year members Amanda Greening (entering her 2nd year in the 4-H rabbit project) & Krysta Turner (entering her first year) were looking for a fun activity to round out their project. That's when they found a website from Denmark & a magazine on the sport of rabbit hopping, which is like dog agility, but just with jumps. Although they did not have Dutch rabbits, generally the rabbit of choice, they thought it looked like fun. The first order of business was to build jumps to use, which were made as part of the project. They also needed to get the rabbits used to wearing harnesses and being on a leash. To train them to jump, first you have to lay a pole on the ground near the base of the jump, so they get used to the idea that they are supposed to go over it. Then you put the poles in the jump cups, gradually raising them as the rabbits get better. The girls use film canisters to make the jump cups. The bunnies performed in some fun shows & at Achievement Day, but the first really big live performance was at 4-H on Parade, our big year end show for 4-H. The demonstration was run in a space beside the dairy show & about half way through they had emptied the stands from the dairy show. It was there they were also noticed by a representative of the Calgary Stampede, who requested them for 5 demos, including in front of the main Grand Stand Stage during the 2007 Family Day breakfast. Since then, they have performed at pet stores, the S.A.R.B.A. Easter event in Airdrie, Calgary Pet Expo, Chestermere rabbit show, & will be back at 4-H on Parade & performed in Edmonton on Canada Day 2008! Since this time, they have made many more appearances, to see a full list, check out our events & performances link. There are lots of new members & even more new rabbits! Check out our Meet the Stars link for a list of all the rabbits & their trainers! Each rabbit even has it's own story & song & some even have their own music video! We have added new equipment, going for more toward agility, with an "A" frame, tunnel, pause table, hoop jumps, bunny walk, teeter totter & most recently, the high jump & long jump. In the summer of 2011, Amanda saw previews for a Canadian version of the popular show America's Got Talent. She sent off the application & on September 14, 2011, Amanda with some club members & bunnies auditioned in Edmonton, Ab. for Canada's Got Talent. On October 18, 2011 the club performed in front of the live studio audience. Interesting CGT facts: In September over 3000+ auditioned in Edmonton for the show! Out of those, 80 made it to the stage in Calgary on October 18 & 19, 2011. From those 80, we were one of only 18 shown on national TV on March 5, 2012! While the club did not advance to the next round, we did not receive any X's & got a standing ovation from the studio audience. Since CGT, the club has taken a huge step forward from it's humble beginning of two girls looking for a new 4-H rabbit project!   2013 saw the beginnings of The Rabbit Hopping Society Of Australia also with the assistance of Aase and Rasmus Bjerner. In 2015 Freya Pocock Johansson founded Rabbit Hopping New Zealand.I (Freya Pocock Johansson) introduced Rabbit Hopping to New Zealand in the beginning of 2015 at The Christchurch Pet Expo, and have gone on to hold many successful demo days and practices in Christchurch, thanks to Lynette Peebles who also hosted them! Thanks to Kathy Davis, we also now have Rabbit Hopping on The North Island!!! Inspired by equestrian jumping events, rabbit enthusiasts in the Czech Republic recently organized a bunny hop competition as an early Easter celebration. A rabbit, a symbol of Easter, jumps over an obstacle during Rabbit Steeple Chase at the Old Town Square’s Easter market on April 14, 2014 in Prague, Czech Republic. There are federations both in Norway (since 2002) and Finland (since 2004). Denmark, Germany, UK, and USA also arrange rabbit jumping although they don’t have any federations. Hopefully the sport will grow and get even bigger all over the world. About rabbit jumping Some basic rules There are four different types of rabbit jumping; straight course, crooked course, high jump and long jump. THE CLASSES STRAIGHT: In straight course the rabbits are divided into 4 classes: Easy class, where the course has 8 - 12 jumps at max. 25 cm (9.8 inch.) high at a distance of 180 cm (70.9 inch.) between the jumps. Medium class with 10 - 14 jumps at max. 35 cm (13.8 inch.) at a distance of 200 cm (78.7 inch.) between the jumps, Difficult class also with 10 - 14 jumps and a distance of 200 cm (78.7 inch.), but with a max. at 40 cm (15.7 inch.) high. At last the Elite class with 12 - 16 jumps at max. 50 cm (19.7 inch.) at a distance of 220 cm (86.6 inch.) between the jumps. CROOKED: At crooked course there are also 4 classes and the highs are the same as at straight. The jumps are placed in an other way; more like show jumping for horses. You follow the numbers at the jumps. HIGH JUMP: High jump takes place by letting the rabbit hop over a jump, which can be put up to about 100 cm (39.4 inch.), and you gradually put one more rails on, till the last rabbit goes out. Each rabbit has 3 trials at each high. The world record today is 99½ cm (39.2 inch.) made of the rabbit "Tøsen" with the handler Tine Hygom from Horsens, Denmark. It was made at the cattle show in Herning June 1997. The rabbit id dead now. LONG JUMP: Long jump takes place at a jump, where you start at 60 cm - 80 cm (23.6-31.5 inch.), an the length is put out till the last rabbit goes out. Each rabbit has 3 trials at each length.   A crooked course is a lot like a show jumping course for horses with turns and loops while on a straight course the jumps are placed on a straight line. The goal is, as said before, to jump cleanly through the course. For every jump knocked down you will receive one fault. There is always one judge counting the faults and one person taking the time of the race from start to finish. If the rabbit doesn’t jump straight over the jump but askew you receive one fault. The same happens if you lift the rabbit over a jump that isn’t already knocked down. If the rabbit jumps the course in the wrong order or exceeds the time limit it will be excluded and will not receive a placing. It is important that the rabbit jumps out of free will and isn’t forced. The rabbit has to be in front of the owner. The tracks have 8-12 obstacles (depending on the level of difficulty) that the leader (något annat) is supposed to help the rabbit through with as few faults as possible. The obstacles needs to be passed in the correct order for the equipage not to be excluded for taking the wrong way. The height of the obstacles also depends on the level of difficulty. There are four different levels to compete in and the heights of the obstacles in each of them are 30, 38, 45 and 50 cm. A rabbit has 2 minutes to complete the course, if the time runs out before the course is completed, the rabbit is disqualified. In straight track the obstacles are placed in a row and in the winding track in a logically turned order, but not in a distinct pattern like an L, S or something like that (it should look almost like a horse jumping track). For each obstacle that is knocked down the rabbit and the leader (the ekuipage) gets one fault. You are also penalized with one fault if you choose to lift the rabbit over an intact obstacle, if the rabbit jumps over it the wrong way, that is adrift (criss-crossing or in between the bars, if the rabbits go over the start marker before it is allowed, and after three corrections. A correction is when the leader gives the rabbit a new run-up for an obstacle. Corrections are not taken into account at the lowest level of difficulty. The winning rabbit is the one with fewest number of faults. If two or more rabbits have tied for the same placing the one with the shortest time will be the winner. When winning or earning a placing (the number of placings depend on the number of participants) the rabbit will gain one promotion point with which the rabbit climb in the levels. In Sweden they call it a “promotion stick”. If the rabbit doesn’t receive any faults at all it will automatically receive a promotion stick. In straight and crooked course there are four official levels; easy, medium, difficult and elite. Older rabbits can compete in the veteran level and beginners can choose to compete in the unofficial mini level. The levels differ in height and length of the jumps but also in number and technical difficulties of jumps. The mini course is just an introductory course. In order to progress from easy to medium, etc. a rabbit has to earn promotion points. Rabbits are placed according to the number of faults they have (such as knocking a rail down) time only comes into play if 2 placing rabbits have tied for the same placing. High jump and long jump have different rules. Here the winner is the rabbit who jumps the highest or the longest. There is only one jump in high- and long jump but it is higher respectively longer than in straight- and crooked course. The rabbit can have three tries at one height/length. If two rabbits have tied for the same placing the one with the fewest amount of tries wins the competition. There are only two levels in high- and long jump; non-elite and elite. To gain a promotion stick the rabbit has to jump either 60 cm = 23.62 inches high respectively 160 cm = 62.99 inches long. In the elite level the rabbits compete about certificates, when the rabbit has gained three certificates in a specific course it will be a champion. One important rule in all courses is that the jumps must be constructed so that they can be knocked down in any direction without hurting the rabbit. You are not allowed to beat or kick the rabbit or to lift the rabbit only using the leach. The rabbit must be held in a harness with a leach, necklaces are not allowed as they can hurt the rabbit’s neck. And remember, only the rabbit is to jump, the human walks beside the jumps and not over them. In the tracks there is as mentioned four different levels of difficulty. Higher levels includes more difficult obstacles in the tracks. All equipage starts out in the lowest level of difficulty, and for each placing they get what we call an "upgrade point". When the rabbit has three upgrading points in the same level of difficulty it has qualified for the next following level. The number of placings in each given class is based on the number of starting rabbits. For every five starting rabbits one place is given. For example if there is 10 starting rabbits two places are given, if there are 26 starting rabbits six places are given. However the rabbit must finish the track with less than two faults per round to get an upgrading point. The most common is that one basic round and a final is arranged, which means that you can have up to at total of 4 faults and still get an upgrading point. If the rabbit completes two rounds without any faults it will receive a upgrading point no matter of the placing number. The lowest level of difficulty is called "easy" and this is the class were all rabbits begin. The maximum height is 30 cm (11,81 inches) and the track has at least 8 obstacles. After collecting three upgrading points the rabbit qualifies for the next level which is "harder than easy". Here the maximum height of the obstacles is 38 cm (14,96 inches) and the track should contain 10 of them. Like before, the rabbit has to collect three upgrading points until it's qualified for the next class which is called 'difficult'. This level has a maximum height of 45 cm (17,72 inches) and there should still be at least 10 obstacles. You must collect five upgrading points in the difficult level before you are qualified for the most difficult class, which is called 'Elite'. The elite has a maximum height of 50 cm (19.96 inches) and the track has 12 obstacles. The length of the obstacles are adjusted to fit the class, but there is a maximum length in the easy class that is 45 cm (17.72 inches) and for the other 80 cm (31,15 inches). There are also regulations for the shortest length between the obstacles. That is 250 cm (98.43 inches) in all the classes, but in the higher levels even a further distance is preferred to give the rabbits as many good possibilities as possible. In 'difficult' and 'elite' there must be a water obstacle. This is special in the way that it counts as one fault if the surface of the water is touched. The width of the obstacles, which is the length on the bars, should not be less than 60 cm (23.62 inches). In addition to the obstacles, there must be a low start and finish obstacle. These obstacles are not included in the track together with the other obstacles, they are only used for the purpose to know when to start and stop the time. In all the classes you need to finish within a maximum time limit, the most common is two minutes. The leader will be noticed when there are 30 and 10 seconds left. There are some different judgings, A-F. The most common is judging C which means that all ekuipages makes one round and that a pre-decided number of them will make it to a final round. Judging D is also. That means that all the ekuipages that completes the first round are allowed to start in the second round. This was a short description of the most important rules in the two tracks, so now let us move forward to the long and high jump. In these two events the rabbit jumps over a single specially made obstacle. In the high jump it is all about jumping as high as possible. The obstacle increases in height after every round. The rabbits have three attempts on each height. If the rabbit fails all three attempts the ekuipage is eliminated. The rabbits that performed the jump correctly continue to the next round, in which the height of the obstacle is increased. You cannot clear the same height more than once. If all the rabbits that is still in the competition fails at the same height, the winner is the rabbit that has used the least attempts to clear the previous height. If those results are also the same you have to look at the height before that and so on until you can separate them to get a winner. If not there have to be a "re competition" between those ekuipages that ended at the same result. Long jump has the same system of declaring a winner, but here the rabbit must jump as far as possible. In high and long jump we have a different upgrading system than in competition in tracks. There are only two classes, 'not elite' and 'elite'. The rabbits starts in not elite. To receive an upgrading point in these events a limit of 60 cm (23.62 inches) in high jump and 160 cm (5,2 feet) in long jump must be cleared. To advance to elite in either of the events, the ekuipage have to collect three upgrading points respectively. When you have reached the elite level in all events, there are no longer any competitions for upgrading points. Instead, the winner of the class receives a certificate, if the class has more than 10 starting rabbits. To receive a certificate in high jump the rabbit must also clear a height of at least 70 cm (27,56 inches) and in long jump 180 cm (5,9 feet). If a rabbit receives three certificates in the same event taken in at least two different clubs, the owner can, regardless of the number of certificates received in the other events, ad the title champion to its name. If the rabbit becomes a champion in two events you ad Great Champion, in three events Super Champion and in all four events Grand Champion. The most important factor in rabbit jumping is the safety of the rabbits. The obstacles are not allowed to be built in a way that the rabbits under any circumstances can hurt themselves. Nails cannot be used to put the bars on. You are not allowed to beat or kick the rabbit, and you can of course never lift it only by its leach. No stressing sounds or acts is allowed and if the rabbit needs to be guided, this should be done by gently using the hands, never the feet or just the leash. The hand holding the leash must be behind the rabbit at all times. The leader of the rabbit cannot go over the obstacles; he or she must pass next to them.   To be allowed to participate in a competition the person must have turned 7 years old and the rabbit must be at least 4 months old. In high- and long jump the rabbit must be 12 months old. All breeds and crossbreeds are allowed to participate, the only important thing is that the rabbit is healthy! All breeds are allowed to compete; however, there may be problems with smaller and larger breeds. (Rabbit size is usually determined by weight: small rabbits are considered under 2 kilo/4.4 lbs and giant over 5 kilos / 11 lbs) Small rabbits, such as the Polish and Netherland dwarf sometimes have problems jumping over long obstacles due to their size. However, there are examples of small rabbits that still made it to the highest Scandinavian classes. Smaller rabbits can overcome weaknesses through style and will. Larger rabbits such as the Flemish Giant and French Lop will put a lot of weight on their front legs in the landing while jumping high over higher obstacles, which may cause injury. Generally, long-haired Angora type breeds, if not clipped, are excluded from competing because of the difficulties their coats cause with agility and vision. Neither English Lop should be entered as they risk injury to their ears. The ideal jumping rabbit has long legs and a long back, which will help it see over longer obstacles and correctly judge the height or length in order to get over. In the case of with slender bone, such as the Belgian Hare, the legs should be strong and muscular so high jumps will not hurt them. In Scandinavia, where rabbit show jumping has a strong base, most are crossbreeds, bred with good jumpers as parents, similar to the method of breeding show dogs. How to teach your rabbit to jump HOW TO TEACH THE RABBIT TO HOP It is best to start with a young. It is good to buy a young at 8 weeks at a breeder, who is a member of a breeding organization. The very first thing you have to teach your rabbit is to walk in a harness and leash. It might be a little cat´s harness or a special harness for rabbits with an eye behind in the back piece. It must not just be a necklace, because then the rabbit might be choked. It might take time to get it used to the harness, but don´t be in too great a hurry. It is very important, that nothing happens, that might frighten the rabbit, when it is in harness. Let it have a good experience, when it is in the harness. Then it will gradually look forward to come out into the harness for a walk. If you have more rabbits, it is best to have one harness for each rabbit. Some rabbits will bite in the harness, if it smells of an other rabbit. When the rabbit has got used to the harness, you can start teaching it, that you are the one, who decides, where you are going. When your rabbit is good at walking in the harness, you can start letting it hop over small jumps. As long time as the young is little, you must not let it jump too much and not too high. Just about 5 minutes at 0 - 5 cm. (0-2 inch.) (0 cm is when the bar is just lying at the grass). It will be good with some milk cartons or some small wood blocks with 100 cm. (40 inch.) between the cartons or blocks. After some weeks you can put one more carton upon the first. When you add the high, you have to add the length. If you already have a rabbit jump, you start with one bar or two bars. If the rabbit don´t want to jump, you can try to lift it once or twice, maybe it will jump by itself the next time. Teach your rabbit from the beginning just to hop the one way. Then it is easier to teach it just to go forward on a course. That´s what it´s about in an event. If your rabbit gets tired, you must let it get a rest and then try later the same day or the next day. To calm or encourage your rabbit it is important, that you talk with your rabbit the whole time both at training and at events. Don´t tell it off, if it doesn't go like you want. You don´t achieve anything by that. At straight course, there has to be the same distance between the jumps. In this way the rabbit gets a fluent run through and has a better chance to make the jumps. When the rabbit is 4 month, it can start training at an easy course (25 cm (9.8 inch.) high) and it can start in an event. Here in Denmark the handler has to be a member of the Breeding Organization of Denmark. Maybe you can try to train in an organization before being a member. All breed and mixed rabbits can learn to hop, but do not hop with very big and heavy rabbits. Don't over train your rabbit. By training once or twice a week it will quickly get used to hop and become a clever hopping rabbit. If you have got a rabbit, who in spite of your best attempts, will not hop, you must let it be a pet rabbit. If you force it, it might be aggressive and maybe you will get sour. It is hard to say, if it is best to hop with a male or a female. We have had best luck with the females. Our males are often more interested in sniffing and peeing and mating our legs. The females might be a little lazy, when they are in heat, but else they are very willing to hop. If it is very hot and very cold it is better not to hop. Rabbit hopping is fun for children and grown ups, and it is a different good and exciting way to have rabbits and to be a rabbit. If you have a little fenced area in your garden, your rabbit can have fun of running there too. It also will give it more exercise. Before you start teaching your rabbit to jump you must teach it how to walk in a harness. When the rabbit feels safe and brave walking in the harness you can start with low jumps (about 5 -10 cm = 2-4 inches). Put the rabbit in front of the first jump and give it some time to think. You might have to help it the first time by lifting the rabbit or by push loosely at its backside. Praise and let the rabbit walk to the next jump. When the rabbit has learned to jump – walk – jump you can add some more jumps and after a while you can increase the difficulty. Think about not to hurry and not practice too much. Otherwise the rabbit might loose interest. You can build jumps out of things you have at home as long as the rabbit can’t get hurt when jumping it. Remember that the jumps must be constructed so that they can be knocked down in any direction without hurting the rabbit. Most rabbits can be taught to jump but not all of them like it. You should never force a rabbit to jump. World records The Guinness Book of World Records makes note of the world record for the highest rabbit jump which is 99.5 cm (39.2 in), which was achieved by Mimrelunds Tösen (The Lassie of Quivering Grove) who was owned by Tine Hygom (Denmark) in Herning, Denmark on 28 June 1997. However, June 13, 2013 this record was beaten by Snöflingans (Super Champion) Majesty of Night "Aysel", owned by Tarkan Sönmez (Sweden) at 100 cm (39.4 in). A video of this can be found on YouTube. The record for longest jump is 3m (118.1 in), held by Yaboo (owner: Maria B Jensen, Denmark)and was set on June 10, 1999. The world record in high jump is held by a Swedish rabbit called Aysel. She has jumped 100 cm (39.37 inches). Her owner is Tarkan Sönmez. The world record in long jump is held by a Danish rabbit, he is called Yaboo and the longest jump was measured to 3 m (9.84 feet). In conclusion At events, there is always great attendance from the spectators. People of all ages have a good time by looking at rabbit hopping. Even radio, TV, newspapers and magazines find, that rabbit hopping is a good subject and now and then they bring photos or on-the-spot report. Of course now and then people, who think it is cruelty to animals, are passing by, but they have hardly ever understood, that the rabbits are hopping of joy. The critics do not think about, that all what we do, are be built on the natural movements of the rabbits. Rabbit jumping is a fun sport for both owner and rabbit. In Scandinavia it is growing and getting more popular. We wish that with this podcast we will inspire rabbit owners all over the world to try rabbit jumping safely! The more you do with your rabbit, the more fun you have with it. If you make rabbit hopping there will by itself come a very close tie between the handler and the rabbit. About 3,000 are expected to take part in the rabbit version of Hickstead. The Swedish rabbit jumping team is among 3,000 animals taking part at the Great Yorkshire Showground, in Harrogate. You are very welcome to contact the committee for The Swedish Federation of Rabbit Jumping if you have any questions. styrelsen@skhrf.com http://skhrf.com/englishsit/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbit_show_jumping https://sites.google.com/site/americanhoppingassociation/ http://www.canadianrabbithoppingclub.com/ http://www.kaninhop.dk/uk/ http://rabbithoppingnz.wixsite.com/rabbithoppingnz http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/04/15/bunny-hop-competition-prague_n_5155397.html http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/watch-adorable-bouncing-bunnies-take-5031497 www.smallanimalshow.co.uk.   Plant of the Week: Barley Word of the Week: PrePaid

On this weeks episode, we will be covering the Arctic Hare. The Arctic Hare is the largest Hare found in North America. We have Inuit folktales about the Arctic Hare, as well as a poem about the arctic hare. Our plant of the week is Oats, and the word of the week is Blow! We will then conclude with the news. This episode is close to an hour, so we have a long episode this week, but I will not have an episode next week. I have some projects to work on the homestead, and it takes about 8 hours to put together an episode with research, recording, and editing. If you like to be first, and who does not like to be first, we have a few chances for you to be first. You could be the first person to rate and review the show on whatever platform you are listening, such as Itunes. You could also be the first to support the podcast through Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit. I would like to thank those that purchased from Amazon through the link at the HareoftheRabbit.com. It looks like there was several purchases this month.         Arctic Hare The Arctic Hare is the largest hare found in North America. The Arctic hare (Lepus arcticus), or polar rabbit, is a species of hare which is highly adapted to living in the Arctic tundra, and other icy biomes. The Arctic hare survives with shortened ears and limbs, a small nose, fat that makes up 20% of its body, and a thick coat of fur. It usually digs holes in the ground or under snow to keep warm and sleep. Arctic hares look like rabbits but have shorter ears, are taller when standing, and, unlike rabbits, can thrive in extreme cold. They can travel together with many other hares, sometimes huddling with dozens or more, but are usually found alone, taking, in some cases, more than one partner. The Arctic hare can run up to 60 kilometres per hour (40 mph). The Arctic hare can achieve very fast speeds when the Arctic hare feels threatened. If the Arctic hare senses danger, the Arctic hare will stand on its hind legs and survey the area. If the Arctic hare feels threatened, the Arctic hare is capable of taking off at very fast speeds as the Arctic hare moves by hopping off its back legs in a similar way to a kangaroo. The Arctic hare runs erratically and leaps while running away from a predator to try and escape. Predators The Arctic hare is a vital component in the Arctic circle food chain, being one of the few smaller mammals able to thrive in such a harsh environment. The Arctic hare is therefore common prey for bigger animals of the Arctic tundra, such as Arctic wolves, foxes and polar bears. Known predators of the Arctic hare are the Arctic fox (Vulpes lagopus), red fox (Vulpes vulpes), gray wolf (Canis lupus), Canada lynx (Lynx canadensis), ermine (Mustela erminea), snowy owl (Bubo scandiacus), grey falcon (Falco rusticolus), rough-legged hawk (Buteo lagopus), and humans (Homo sapiens). The Arctic wolf is probably the most successful predator of the Arctic hare, and even young wolves in their first autumn can catch adult hares. Arctic foxes and ermines, which are smaller, typically prey on young hares. Grey falcon carry hares to their nests, cutting them in half first; grey falcons use hare bones and feet in the structure of their nests on Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. Peregrine falcons (Falco peregrinus) also prey on Arctic hares in the southern end of the hares' range. The Snowy owls mainly targets young hare; the French common name of the species derives from Anglo-Saxon harfang ("hare-catcher"). Four groups of parasites have been known to use Arctic hares as a host: protozoans (Eimeria exigua, E. magna, E. perforans, and E. sculpta); nematodes (including Filaria and Oxyuris ambigua); lice (including Haemodipsus lyriocephalus and H. setoni) and fleas (including Hoplopsyllus glacialis, Euhoplopsyllus glacialis, and Megabothris groenlandicus. Fleas are more common than parasitic worms. Range and habitat The Arctic hare is predominantly found on the hillsides and rocky areas of Arctic tundra, where there is no tree cover. This species lives mostly on the ground, but will occasionally create dens or use natural shelters during times of cold weather. During winter, the Arctic hare has been known to move into forested habitats. The Arctic hare is distributed over the northernmost regions of Greenland, the Canadian Arctic islands and Northern Canada, including Ellesmere Island, and further south in Labrador and Newfoundland. The Arctic hare is well-adapted to the conditions found in the tundras, plateaus and treeless coasts of this region, including cold weather and frozen precipitation. The Arctic hare may be found at elevations between 0 (sea level) and 900 m. In Newfoundland and southern Labrador, the Arctic hare changes its coat color, molting and growing new fur, from brown or grey in the summer to white in the winter, like some other Arctic animals including ermine and ptarmigan, enabling it to remain camouflaged as their environments change. However, the Arctic hares in the far north of Canada, where summer is very short, remain white all year round. Characteristics Hares are a bit larger than rabbits, and they typically have taller hind legs and longer ears. Like other hares and rabbits, arctic hares are fast and can bound at speeds of up to 40 miles an hour. In winter, they sport a brilliant white coat that provides excellent camouflage in the land of ice and snow. In spring, the hare's colors change to blue-gray in approximation of local rocks and vegetation. The Arctic hare is one of the largest living lagomorphs. On average, this species measures from 43 to 70 cm (17 to 28 in) long, not counting a tail length of 4.5–10 cm (1.8–3.9 in). The body mass of this species is typically between 2.5–5.5 kg (6–12 lb), though large individuals can weigh up to 7 kg (15 lb). One of the world’s largest hares, the Arctic hare (Lepus arcticus) has a distinctive, uniformly white summer coat, aside from the tips of each ear, which are black. The thick white fur provides both warmth and camouflage against the Arctic hare’s snowy surroundings. After the spring molt, the fur of southern populations is replaced with a shorter grey-brown fur. More northerly populations also molt into shorter fur, but retain the white coloration year-round. The time of shedding fur and the molting patterns vary with latitude. Not much is known about the molting pattern but it has been assumed that the annual molt starts in June. During his research at Sverdrup Pass on Ellesmere Island (now in Nunavut), biologist Dr. David Gray saw hares begin losing their winter coats in April, when temperatures still hover around -30°C (-22°F). Nursing females seem to molt later than other Arctic hares. The molt into winter or summer pelage is dependent on the number of daylight hours. When the Arctic hare detects a change in the number of daylight hours, hormones are released which trigger the molt. In mid-summer, when their camouflage is not as effective, Arctic hares are wary and difficult to approach. In the High Arctic, where summers are short (six to eight weeks), a sandy brown or grey wash appears on the nose, forehead and ears, and occasionally on the back. The predominant color, however, remains the snowy white of winter, which makes High-Arctic Arctic hares starkly visible against a snow-free background and therefore more vulnerable to predators. In the more southern reaches of their range (including Baffin Island, Nunavut), where the summer is somewhat longer, the white coat changes to brown with blue-grey tones, while the tail and parts of the ears and legs remain white. Arctic hares can be active all winter because of the insulating quality of their fur coat. A short, thick and warm under-fur is protected by the longer, silky top fur. A hare with fat for 20% of its body weight could live for 15 days at -24°C (11°F) on that stored fat alone because of this excellent insulation. The female Arctic hare is larger than the male, and also begins to molt earlier in spring. Otherwise, males and females look so similar that they are difficult to tell apart at a distance. During the breeding season and the nursing period, males and females can be more easily identified by their behavior. The arctic hare lives in the harsh environment of the North American tundra. These hares do not hibernate, but survive the dangerous cold with a number of behavioral and physiological adaptations. They sport thick fur and enjoy a low surface area to volume ratio that conserves body heat, most evident in their shortened ears. The Arctic hare is mostly solitary. However, during winter months, this species may demonstrate ‘flocking’ behavior, sometimes gathering in large groups of up to 3,000 individuals. This unique behavior may offer the Arctic hare protection from predators such as the Arctic fox (Vulpes lagopus) making it harder for predators to catch an individual without being seen. The ‘flock’ are synchronized with each other and are able to move, run and change direction at the same time. The Arctic hare is always white in the far north where there is snow all year round. In parts of the Arctic circle that have seasons, the Arctic hare will go from white to a blue-grey color in the summer but is known to keep its white tail all year. The Arctic hare has long claws which helps the Arctic hare when digging through icy and snowy conditions when the Arctic hare is searching for food or if the Arctic hare is digging a den. The paws are heavily padded with thick, coarse fur which helps the Arctic hare to walk on the surface of snow without sinking. The well adapted claws and incisors enable the Arctic hare to dig through snow and feed on the plants beneath. Distress calls are made by hare and rabbit species when they are caught by predators, but all other communication is thought to be done by scent marking. The glands which secrete the scent are found underneath the chin and in the groin area. Diet Food can be scarce in the Arctic, but the hares survive by eating woody plants, mosses, and lichens which they may dig through the snow to find in winter. In other seasons they eat buds, berries, leaves, roots, and bark. An omnivorous species, the Arctic hare’s diet is mostly composed of woody plants such as Arctic willow (Salix arctica), as well as grasses, herbs, berries, buds, shrubs and lichens. An opportunistic feeder, the Arctic hare may also eat small animals and carrion. This species has an acute sense of smell, which enables it to locate and dig for food in the snow. Arctic hares feed primarily on woody plants, and willow constitutes 95 percent of their diet year-round. Arctic hares predominantly consume such as saxifrage, crowberry, and dwarf willow, but can also eat a variety of other foods, including lichens and mosses, blooms, other species' leaves, twigs and roots, mountain sorrel and macroalgae (seaweed). Arctic hare diets are more diverse in summer, but still primarily consists of willow, dryas and grasses. Arctic hare have been reported to occasionally eat meat, including fish and the stomach contents of eviscerated caribou. They eat snow to get water. Breeding Arctic hares are sometimes loners but they can also be found in groups of dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of individuals. Unlike many mammals, arctic hare groups disperse rather than form during mating season. Animals pair off and define mating territories, though a male may take more than one female partner. The breeding season of the Arctic hare begins in April or May, with the male pursuing the female and biting her neck, which often draws blood. The gestation period is around 53 days, with females usually giving birth to a litter of between 2 and 8 young hares, or ‘leverets’, in June or July. The female Arctic hare gives birth in a depression in the ground, which is lined with grass, moss and fur or sheltered under rocks. Arctic hare leverets are born at an advanced stage of development, with fur and open eyes. The female returns to feed the leverets every 18 hours with highly nutritious milk, eventually leaving them to fend for themselves when they are fully weaned after 8 or 9 weeks. Two to eight young hares grow quickly and by September resemble their parents. They will be ready to breed the following year. The leverets stay within the mother's home range until they are old enough to survive on their own. There is little information on the lifespan of Arctic hare. Some anecdotal evidence suggests they live three to five years in the wild. Arctic hare do not survive well in captivity, living only a year and a half at most. Traditionally, the arctic hare has been important to Native Americans. These fairly plentiful animals are hunted as a food resource and for their fur, which is used to make clothing. Arctic hare threats The Arctic hare is threatened by habitat loss in the southern part of its range, as well as by unrestricted hunting in certain areas. It may also come under threat in the future due to climate changes (whether those changes are man made, solar min/max changes or changes in the earths axis). However, the Arctic hare is not currently believed to be at high risk of extinction due to any of these factors. Conservation Some parts of the Arctic hare’s range have seasonal limits on the harvest levels of this species. There are not known to be any other specific conservation measures currently in place for the Arctic hare. Subspecies There are nine recognized subspecies of the Arctic hare: ⦁ Lepus arcticus andersoni, ⦁ Lepus arcticus arcticus, ⦁ Lepus arcticus bangsii, ⦁ Lepus arcticus banksicola, ⦁ Lepus arcticus groenlandicus, ⦁ Lepus arcticus hubbardi, Lepus arcticus labradorius, ⦁ Lepus arcticus monstrabilis, and ⦁ Lepus arcticus porsildi. The subspecies vary in range, molting behavior and appearance, with northern populations remaining white year-round. http://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/a/arctic-hare/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arctic_hare https://a-z-animals.com/animals/arctic-hare/ http://www.arkive.org/arctic-hare/lepus-arcticus/ http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/edu/ViewLoitLo.do;jsessionid=9111F3DC840DAB947DC1538CECB74E3A?method=preview&lang=EN&id=13762 http://interesting-animal-facts.com/Arctic-Animal-Facts/Arctic-Hare-Facts.html Hares in Newfoundland https://retrieverman.net/tag/arctic-hare/ One of the most interesting biological stories takes place on the island of Newfoundland. Before settlement, only Arctic hares could be found on Newfoundland. Its predators included the now extinct Newfoundland wolves and a very small population of Canada lynx. Its population was small, mainly because Arctic hares use open habitats and they are always somewhat vulnerable to predation. The small population of lynx that lived in Newfoundland were always at a bit of disadvantage. They are mostly adapted to eating snowshoe hares, which are creatures of the dense forest. However, before the 1860’s, there were no snowshoe hares on Newfoundland. The Canada lynx that lived on the island had to live like bobcats– eating what prey species availed themselves. Bobcats and Eurasian lynx are better at hunting deer species than the Canada lynx, but the Canada lynx on Newfoundland occasionally hunted caribou, especially the young of the year. But because there were no easily captured snowshoe hares for the Canada lynx to eat, their numbers remained quite small. The Canada lynx doesn’t do well as a bobcat. In the 1860’s, the government of Newfoundland discovered it had a problem. Lots of people were going hungry. The forests and sea were not producing enough to feed them. To rectify this problem, the Newfoundland government introduced the snowshoe hare, which is staple in the diet of many rural residents of the mainland. The hares fed the people, and they adapted well to Newfoundland’s environment. And they spread. In the early 1900’s, there were tons of them on the island. They soon reached what ecologists call the “carrying capacity” and then many of them starved. Then something else happened. Arctic hares began to disappear, and the caribou numbers began to drop. What caused the numbers of those species to drop? Well, it has something to do with the Canada lynx. What? Well, as I said before, the Canada lynx is a snowshoe hare specialist. On the mainland, its population is directly linked to snowshoe hare populations. It lives almost exclusively on them, and it is very well adapted to hunting them. When the population of snowshoe hares began to take off in Newfoundland, the native Canada lynx population could stop living like bobcats. They could return to their ancestral habits of hunting the snowshoes, the species they evolved to eat. Things were fine until the snowshoe hares reached their carrying capacity and their population dropped off. Then, the larger population of Canada lynx that had developed from eating those large number of snowshoe hares had to find something else to eat. They slaughtered the Arctic hares, even though Arctic hares are much harder for the Canada lynx to hunt. With so many Canada lynx in Newfoundland looking for food, the poor Arctic hares had no respite from the predation. The predation was so intense that Arctic hares can be found only in remote areas the northern part of the island, where one cannot find Canada lynx or snowshoe hares. On the mainland, Canada lynx, snowshoe hares, and Arctic hares are not found in the same spots. Arctic hares are always found to the north of prime Canada lynx and snowshoe hare habitat. It is likely that Canada lynx are the main reason why Arctic hares have a rather clearly demarcated southern limit to their range. They simply cannot live where Canada lynx and snowshoe hares do, because the Canada lynx will eat the Arctic hares when the snowshoe hares have their population crash. Yes, snowshoe hares have a ten year cycle in which the population hits its carry capacity within ten years and then has a massive die off. Then it rebuilds after that die off until it hits its carry capacity ten years later. The Canada lynx is at the mercy of these ten year cycles. And so, it seems, is the Arctic hare. The introduction of the snowshoe hare in Newfoundland had been a major disaster for the Arctic hare, even though the two species do not necessarily conflict with each other. They don’t even live in the same habitats, with Arctic hares preferring the open tundra and snowshoes preferring the forest. It is the rather strong predator-prey relationship that exists between the snowshoe hares and the Canada lynx that ultimately affected the Arctic hare. Now, that is only part of the story. Why did the caribou drop off? Well, it is a very similar story. When the Canada lynx population exploded with the introduced snowshoe hares, they generally left the moose and caribou alone. Canada lynx will eat snowshoe hares before they’ll touch any species of deer. When the snowshoe hare population collapsed, the caribou and moose population began to suffer almost as badly as the Arctic hares. The caribou population collapsed through the 1950s until there were just a few hundred caribou on the island. It turned out that many of these caribou were dying as calves from a bacterial infection. Large numbers of calves were found dead. They had strange puss-filled marks on their throats, which were cultured and found to have the Pasturella multocida bacteria in those puss-filled marks. It was this bacteria that was killing them. The caribou of Newfoundland prefer to calve in low-lying swampy areas on the island. They try to keep their calves out of the elements so they do not succumb to illnesses or the elements. So why were they getting this bacterial infection? And what about the strange marks on the caribou calves’ throats? Well, remember the earlier story about the Canada lynx and the snowshoe hares in Newfoundland? It turns out that the Canada lynx were not only preying on Arctic hares when the snowshoe population crashed. They were also preying caribou calves. However, as I said before, Canada lynx are pikers when it comes to hunting any species of deer. They often made a mess of it. As you are aware, cats often kill by a bite to the throat. Canada lynx kill biting the throats of their prey. However, when they tried to kill caribou calves, they really didn’t do too well. They really don’t have the teeth of a big cat to really suffocate a large prey species like a young caribou. When they would have a young caribou on the ground biting its throat, the mother caribou would have time to run back and drive the lynx off its calf. With that many lynx making failed attempts to kill young caribou, it didn’t take that long for lots of calves to get infected with nasty bacteria. And thus, they died. Now, the discovery that Canada lynx were causing Arctic hare and caribou populations to drop was a major revelation in population ecology. The biologist who made this discovery was A.T. Bergerud. Bergerud’s discoveries were a major afront to the accepted theory in wildlife management at the time. Before Bergerud, the accepted theory was that of Paul Errington. Errington’s theory is the classical predator-prey relationship. Prey species produce many offspring, usually far more than the habitat can handle, but these prey species are kept in check because they are eaten by the predators. The ones the predators catch are called the “doomed surplus.” Predators play a vital role keeping these prey species at healthy numbers. Because natural predators take the animals that are part of this doomed surplus, natural predators do not make prey species go extinct or make their populations drop precipitously. Bergerud’s theory is quite different from that. It suggest that there are conditions in which predators actually can make a population drop really quickly. I don’t think that it entirely negates the classical wildlife management theory on predator-prey relationships. However, there are exceptions to every rule, and the Canada lynx and snowshoe hare are pretty exceptional species. Not very many predators are so closely linked with a single prey species. It is also rather unusual to find a prey species with such clearly defined cycle to its population dynamics as the snowshoe hare. And Newfoundland is a pretty strange place. It is an island that never had snowshoe hares on it. When prey species are introduced to an environment where they don’t have many predators, they will reproduce at an astounding rate. The doomed surplus doesn’t become doomed, and the population explodes until the ecosystem can handle no more. The small population of Canada lynx had been eking out an existence as a generalist predator until the snowshoe hares appeared like manna from heaven. Yes, it is an unusual situation, but it proves that exceptions exist to every rule. And that’s why predators sometimes need to be managed to protect the prey species. FolkTale: Arctic Hare stories from Voices of the Inuit from the Canadian Museum of Nature Inuit—Stories of Long Ago Oral Tradition: Between the Physical and the Spiritual Worlds https://www.collectionscanada.gc.ca/stories/020020-3100-e.html According to Inuit tradition, human beings could travel between the physical and spiritual worlds. Humans could also transform into animals and animals could transform into human beings. As well, there were invisible spirits that were capable of changing into any form. Inuit saw the world as having infinite possibilities. The titles of the stories varied from region to region. Even the names of main characters in stories sometimes varied according to different regions of the Arctic. Many legends were for entertainment and amusement, there were also stories that taught lessons to the listeners. According to Inuit tradition, there was nothing but water when the world began. Suddenly, stones and rocks came down from the sky. Land was created! There was only darkness, and humans and animals lived together as one species. The animals and human beings took on each other's forms and shapes. Words were created and, because these words had never been used before, they contained very powerful magic. Whenever anyone used words, strange things would happen. For example, when Tiriganiaq, the fox, met Ukaliq, an Arctic hare, the fox said, "Taaq, taaq, taaq! 'Darkness, darkness, darkness!'" said the fox. It liked the dark when it was going out to steal from the caches of the humans. "Ulluq, ulluq, ulluq! 'Day, day, day!'" said the hare. It wanted the light of day so that it could find a place to feed. And suddenly it became as the hare wished it to be; its words were the most powerful. Day came and replaced night, and when night had gone day came again. And light and dark took turns with each other. -Rasmussen 1931 Many other things, such as the concepts of good and bad, were created by the magical powers of words. http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/edu/ViewLoitLo.do;jsessionid=49726EB7BBC409F8674F9AE248C20BBF?method=preview&lang=EN&id=14008 Inuit Oral Tradition The stories told here about the Arctic hare originate in the oral tradition of Inuit culture. They were written down -- probably for the first time -- in the 20th century. The Story of 'The Marriage of the Fox and the Hare' "The tale of 'the fox and the hare' tells how a hare married a female fox, promising to provide her with all the prey she needed to eat. Sadly, however, he was unable to live up to his job and, full of shame, told her that they should separate since he was unable to look after her. Full of tears, she left him, mourning the loss of her hare husband". -Randa 1994 The 'Two Rabbits Outsmart an Owl' Story "An Owl saw two Rabbits playing close together, and seized them, one in each foot; but they were too strong for him and ran away. The Owl's wife shouted to him, 'let one of them go, and kill the other!' but he replied, 'The Moon will soon appear, and then we shall be hungry. We need both of them.' The Rabbits ran on; and when they came to a boulder, one ran to the right side, while the other ran to the left side, of it. The Owl was not able to let go quick enough, and was torn in two". -Boas 1901 The Story of 'The Fox and The Rabbit' "Once upon a time a Fox met a Rabbit, and asked him if he had recently caught any seal. The Rabbit became angry on account of this question, and said to the Fox, "Yes, if you just follow my tracks backward, you will find one I have just killed." The Fox went along the Rabbit's tracks, but, instead of finding a seal, he only found the place where the Rabbit had spent the time sleeping in the sun by the side of some rocks. He ran away and whenever he met an animal, he would tell him that the Rabbit was a great liar". -Boas 1901 The Arctic Hare Poem https://www.abctales.com/story/well-wisher/arctic-hare By well-wisher Now where is the hare? Is it here or there? With its coat so white, it keeps out of sight. And if not for that magic coat, it’d be prey to fox or stoat, the Arctic wolf or snowy owl or polar bears out on the prowl. Yet the hare can see what’s unseen; smell willows underground with twitching nose and, with its keen ears, hear the slightest sound. You glimpse a black tipped ear; its eyes, jewels in the snow but then it disappears. Now where did that hare go? News: Vitakraft Sun Seed recalls rabbit and macaw foods The products may be contaminated with Listeria monocytogenes https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news/vitakraft-sun-seed-recalls-rabbit-and-macaw-foods-062617.html Vitakraft Sun Seed of Weston, Ohio, is recalling certain Sunseed Parrot Fruit & Vegetable diet and Sunseed SunSations Rabbit Food. The products may be contaminated with Listeria monocytogenes. There have been no report of any illnesses to date. The following products, sold in Arizona, Georgia, Illinois, Michigan, New Jersey, New York, Nevada, Ohio, Pennsylvania and Wisconsin, are being recalled: ITEM DESCRIPTION LOT Best buy date 87535100597 SS PARROT FRT/VEG. 25# 104082 5/22/2019 87535360564 SS Sunsations Rabbit Food 3.5lb 6/C 104246 6/5/2019 70882077713 MJR PARROT FOOD 4LB 6/CA 103980 5/17/2019 70882077713 MJR PARROT FOOD 4LB 6/CA 103981 5/18/2019 73725732119 ALT Small Animal Apple Slices 1oz 24/CA 103435 4/28/2019 73725732119 ALT Small Animal Apple Slices 1oz 24/CA 103118 4/13/2019 73725749989 NG GUINEA PIG ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 103440 5/1/2019 73725749989 NG GUINEA PIG ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 104434 6/8/2019 73725749989 NG GUINEA PIG ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 103439 5/1/2019 73725750019 NG RABBIT ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 104436 6/8/2019 73725750019 NG RABBIT ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 103442 4/27/2019 73725750019 NG RABBIT ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 103444 4/27/2019 73725750019 NG RABBIT ENTRÉE 4lb 6/C 103443 4/27/2019 82514158955 DFS Premium Blend Macaw 5lb 5/C 104094 3/16/2020 82514158955 DFS Premium Blend Macaw 5lb 5/C 103741 2/19/2020 82514158955 DFS Premium Blend Macaw 5lb 5/C 103876 2/24/2020 What to do Customers who purchased the recalled products may return them to the place of purchase for a full refund. Consumers with questions may contact customer service at 1-800-221-6175, Monday through Friday between 8:30am and 5:00pm (EST). Rabbits are hopping all over https://www.bostonglobe.com/lifestyle/2017/06/28/forget-jackrabbit-bunnytown/cWn12dnTUCjdDUGS76xqXI/story.html Lately, it seems, the city of Boston has been overrun by a collection of entitled youngsters, occupying the trendiest neighborhoods, adhering to strict vegetarian diets, and fornicating at a rate that would make Hugh Hefner blush. Yes, exactly: rabbits. No matter where you look these days, you’re bound to spot these cotton-tailed city dwellers making themselves comfortable in the city’s backyards, pathways, and streets. In recent weeks alone, they’ve been spied hopping near grassy lots in Southie, hiding under cars in Somerville, and strutting past red-brick townhomes in the Back Bay. They can regularly be found canoodling in Cambridge. “It seems like there’s always a bunny around,” says Michelle Kweder, a Harvard Law School employee and Somerville resident who insists she is no longer surprised when she stumbles upon one. Whether there’s been an actual surge in the number of rabbits is difficult to determine; due in part to their short lifespans, keeping tabs on the number of wild rabbits in any region can be nearly impossible. Anecdotally, though, there seems to be a rash of rabbit-human run-ins around town, and one theory is that it’s simply that time of year. The mating season for cottontails stretches from March to September, says Marion Larson, information and education chief for the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries & Wildlife, and each spring — as residents and homeowners inevitably spend more time outdoors — they’re bound to run into what she calls the “very prolific rabbit.” “It’s a seasonal phenomenon,” says Larson. Still, the rabbit has found itself in the news from time to time. In 2015, for instance, the federal government removed the New England cottontail rabbit from the list of endangered species. And some locals insist that the rabbits occupying their yards are more than temporary guests. “These aren’t just random wanderers,” says John Byrne of Medford, who counted at least five or six rabbits during a recent bus commute to Somerville. “I can’t fairly call them tenants, because they don’t pay rent. But as far as they’re concerned, they’re home.” They’ve become such a fixture during twice-daily walks with his dog, says Al Weisz, a Somerville-based architect and engineer, that he now notices when he doesn’t spot one. “It’s the exception rather than the rule when I don’t see a rabbit,” he says. But while the rabbits’ presence within city limits — and in the various surrounding suburbs — might seem curious, it’s not all that surprising. For one thing, they don’t require much territory, according to Marj Rines, a naturalist with the Massachusetts Audubon Society. The two local rabbit species — New England cottontail and Eastern cottontail — can exist in a habitat as small as a half acre, she says, meaning that a single block of Commonwealth Avenue in the Back Bay would likely provide all the space and vegetation the small creatures would need. For another thing, rabbits have developed something of a reputation for their rate of reproduction. As Larson puts it: “When they say ‘breed like rabbits,’ it’s true.” While some might worry about the bunnies’ penchant for mischief, others insist that concerns about the creatures have been overblown. “In terms of the wildlife that we deal with, they’re relatively benign,” says Amanda Kennedy, director of animal care and control for the city of Boston. “And even the amount of damage they can do in your garden is typically less than what you’ll see for a skunk or squirrel.” Which isn’t to say that they’re completely harmless. “I was startled by one last weekend,” says Byrne. “I was doing some work in the yard, and there was a rabbit just sort of sitting on a dirt patch, kind of just blended right into the ground. I didn’t know it was there, and [then] he moved, and I just kind of recoiled a bit.” Indeed, like squirrels before them, rabbits seem to be growing quite comfortable in the city’s streets. “What’s surprising is how close me and my dog can get to it,” says Kweder. “This morning, the rabbit looked a little bit nervous, but also totally held her ground.” For the most part, though, it has been a fairly peaceful cohabitation. And despite their less-than-stellar reputations with gardens, the rabbits hordes have been kind enough to leave the city’s most prominent one unscathed. “They’ve been all over Twitter, I’ve seen people posting pictures — but not us, unfortunately” says Susan Abell, director of communications and outreach for the Friends of the Public Garden. “Or maybe,” she added, “fortunately.” The urban rabbit is the unofficial mascot of Chicago https://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/urban-rabbits-bunnies/BestOf?oid=27092070 Three years ago my wife and I rented an old bungalow in Avondale, and when we moved in, we discovered the street was lousy with rabbits—the eastern cottontail, to be exact, one of the most common species in the U.S. On one side of our house lay a weedy area that the rabbits used for cover, and on the other side stood a grassy open plot that they treated as their personal country club. When I came home at night, there would always be one in our front yard, giving me the hard stare, twitching its nose if I spoke, and hopping away if I made a move askance. I remember some epic stare downs with those guys, and they always won. After a while we came to think of the rabbits as our friends and neighbors, and we looked forward to seeing them when they came out to forage at dusk. Periodically we'd sit down for ceremonial viewings of the misbegotten 1972 horror movie Night of the Lepus, set in an Arizona town that's been overrun by rabbits after the townspeople have gotten rid of its coyote population. Stuart Whitman and Janet Leigh are scientists who inject rabbits with a hormonal formula to stunt their breeding, and after one of the rabbits gets loose, authorities begin to find mutilated bodies of livestock and people. Eventually the scientists discover that their serum has created a mutant species of marauding bunnies the size of bears. Cheapo special-effects shots show live rabbits loping around miniature sets, though an actor in a rabbit suit fills in for the attack scenes. Chicago rabbits may not be quite as big, but their numbers have risen dramatically since the 1990s, when Mayor Daley's various greening projects began to invite more woodland creatures into an urban environment. Drawn by the elevated heat level of the city, rabbits began spreading from parks into grassy areas like expressway ramps, and even made their way into the Loop. They eat any kind of vegetation, laying waste to people's gardens. When there's no greenery available, they'll chew the bark off a tree trunk. Similar greening projects have brought population explosions in other cities. As a graduate student at University of Frankfurt and a doctoral candidate at Goethe University, ecologist Madlen Ziege has made comparative studies of rural and urban rabbits and finds that city rabbits are a lot like us. Out in the country, rabbits live communally in large, sprawling burrows, with multiple exits that offer escape from predators; as they move into the city, where predators are less common, their burrows become smaller, simpler, more private, and more uniformly spaced. Ziege has also discovered that urban rabbits establish communal latrines that they use to demarcate their territory from that of rival bunny gangs. During the winter I'd come home after dark, find rabbits sitting in our snowy front yard, and marvel at what tough bastards they were. But according to Mason Fidino of the Urban Wildlife Institute at Lincoln Park Zoo, 70 percent of Chicago's rabbits die every winter. The population keeps growing only because they breed like crazy: with a gestation period of four weeks, females typically deliver 16 to 20 offspring a year. Apparently rabbits do nothing but eat, mate, defend their turf, cause property damage, and die. So, you know— typical Chicagoans. Skype, Facetime, or Rabbit?: What’s The Best Way To Remotely Binge with Your Pals? http://decider.com/2017/06/28/skype-facetime-rabbit-the-best-way-to-remotely-binge/ Rabbit: The Perfect Place to Co-Watch YouTube Videos There is actually a company that has realized people want to watch content together from across the web, and they’ve kind of figured it out. Rabbit is essentially a free screen sharing site. Each user has a chat room, which is where you can watch anything from Hulu to YouTube by logging onto your account through a webpage on the site. From there, you can invite up to 25 of your friends to your chat room. I tested rabbit with my best friend and her husband, and the two biggest issues I found with the service had to do with quality and privacy. The video quality of Rabbit is not good by any stretch of the imagination. It’s a choppier version of whatever video you’ve already found (I later found out that Rabbit has a high definition option that I was not using). Also, the way it interacts with paid services that already have your credit card information, like Netflix and Hulu, gives me pause. Since you have to re-enter your paid account information into Rabbit’s site, it’s unclear if the service has any additional privacy measures in place to protect that info. Even reading through Rabbit’s privacy policy didn’t remedy my concerns, and I’m not the only one who has been suspicious of the site. However, if the site’s privacy policy doesn’t concern you, Rabbit only requires one user to have an account. All of the other options on this list are contingent on both users having a Netflix or Hulu account. That being said, Rabbit features text chat and audio chat while letting you successfully watch TV with 25 of your closest friends. No other option does that while perfectly syncing the video with all users. In my test trial, we found that the service works well for a branch of content that’s short, accessible to everyone, and is already all over the place quality-wise — YouTube videos. You’d be hard pressed to find a better service that lets you dive into the oddities of YouTube together. UPDATE: After speaking to a representative from Rabbit, it seems as though there is a way to switch the streaming quality of the service. For this article, I was unknowingly streaming YouTube videos in Rabbit’s lowest quality setting, but there is a high definition option available in the bottom toolbar. The same spokesperson also clarified Rabbit’s privacy policy. According to this representative, the site scrubs its service after users watch videos. Because of this, the site cannot see users’ private information. Basically, if you use Rabbit to log into Netflix, Rabbit will not be able to see the information you enter. Knowing this information, it now seems as though Rabbit is the ideal site for streaming with your friends. Clevedon hospital rabbit goes missing http://www.northsomersettimes.co.uk/news/clevedon-hospital-rabbit-goes-missing-1-5081595 Bigwig lived in the garden outside The Little Teapot café at the North Somerset Community Hospital in Old Street. The rabbit, named after a character in Waterhship Down, is believed to have been taken from the hospital in early June. Matt Croughan, clinical lead at the minor injury unit, said: “This is a hare-raising story of a kidnap and we are hoping Bigwig will hop back to us soon. “But joking aside, we would really like whoever removed Bigwig to return him. “He was a great addition to our beautiful garden, which is tended by volunteers, and it seems a shame someone has chosen to deprive the hospital of our Bigwig.” The hospital’s inpatients unit is currently closed to undergo a refurbishment, and is expected to reopen in September. Vancouver City Council weighs limits on rabbits, hens, cats City may put cap on pets per household http://www.columbian.com/news/2017/jun/27/vancouver-city-council-weighs-limits-on-rabbits-hens-cats/ Residents of Vancouver may soon be limited in how many cats, hens or rabbits they can keep on their property. On Monday, Vancouver City Council voted to advance an ordinance that would prohibit residents from keeping more than five adult cats, five adult hens or five adults rabbits on their property. Residential properties larger than 10,000 square feet would be allowed an additional hen or rabbit for each 1,000 square feet, under the ordinance. According to a staff report, the city’s current code limits the number of adult dogs allowed on private residences to three and prohibits roosters and peacocks. The ordinance, which has been in the works since earlier this year and will be heard and voted on July 10, is intended to discourage hoarding while also addressing noise, odor and property destruction concerns. The council was provided with two different versions of the ordinance and opted for one that allows residents to have up to 10 adults cats if they are participating in a foster program run by a nonprofit. During the meeting, the council heard from Sherry Mowatt, a resident of the Hough neighborhood, who said that she has a flock of a dozen hens. She said she cares for them responsibly and expressed concern about the ordinance. Bryan Snodgrass, principal planner in the city’s Community and Economic Development Department, explained that people like Mowatt would effectively be grand- fathered in. But Councilor Alishia Topper expressed reservations about the ordinance, specifically how the number of animals the measure allows for was chosen “randomly,” and how it could adversely affect responsible animal owners. “It’s like we are penalizing the people who are being good because of the people who are behaving poorly,” she said. Topper suggested creating some sort of permit for people to own more animals. Councilor Ty Stober said that the ordinance was crafted partially in response to a resident who was raising in a “suspect fashion” rabbits and chickens on their property. “We are a city,” he said. “We are not unincorporated Clark County.” From donut sandwiches to rabbit sausage, these are the weirdest foods in Lawrence http://www.kansan.com/arts_and_culture/from-donut-sandwiches-to-rabbit-sausage-these-are-the-weirdest/article_a0627cc2-583b-11e7-9f00-9f2a7a6f7b78.html Lawrence is a place that lends itself to weird and unusual pieces of Midwestern culture. A massive part of that, undoubtedly, is the food throughout town. Foods from almost any place in the world, or from any culture, can find a niché in Lawrence. The Kansan found some of the most unique dishes in the Lawrence community and learned the stories behind them. Harold’s Chicken, Whiskey and Donuts, located at 918 Massachusetts Street, serves a Grilled Do-nut Burger and a Grilled Glazer Sandwich, both served on glazed donuts. Harold’s was created for lovers of chicken, whiskey, and donuts. So it’s no surprise that one of the restaurant's weirdest and most popular food items includes two other menu options. The Grilled Glazer Sandwich is made up of a piece of fried chicken, cheddar cheese, Harold’s secret sauce and, to top it off, it all goes in between two glazed donuts. Harold’s also has a Double Do-nut Burger which has two hamburger patties, cheddar cheese, Harold’s secret sauce and it’s placed between two glazed donuts. Katie Chamberlin, assistant manager at Harold’s, said that these two items are some of their top sellers. She said the taste of the burger patty and do-nut bun is a good combination of sweet and salty. “People are surprised,” Chamberlin said. “They would never ordinarily order something like that, but almost everyone loves it.” Customers also receive a side with their sandwich or burger, including fries, mac and cheese, or mashed potatoes and gravy. Luckily for customers, these menu items are around all year long. Hank's Rabbit Sausage and Toast Hank’s Charcuterie has been and Lawrence for three years. Its seasonal menu items might catch customers' eye of people dining in, especially an item on its current menu: rabbit sausage and bone marrow toast. Jamie Everett, chef de cuisine at Hank’s, said that the idea to place the item on the menu occurred after the restaurant served it at an event and the response from people was really good. Everett said that the dish includes bread from 1900 Barker Bakery, wooly rind cheese, spicy spring greens mustard vinaigrette, rabbit jus, and rabbit sausage. “We get in local rabbits, break it down, and grind it up with a little bit of pork fat, roasted garlic and herbs, slice it real thin and sear it off in a pan,” he said. Everett said that the rabbit sausage has a very mild flavor and that a lot of people say it tastes like chicken. As for the bone marrow, Everett said that they roast meat bones off and save the marrow and put it on top of the dish, which adds a savory flavor. “Everybody loves it,” Everett said. “We sell quite a few and there is nothing super game-y in it.” One of Wake the Dead's interesting cocktails. Contributed Photo/Wake The Dead Wake the Dead's Death Star Sandwich and bizarre cocktails Wake the Dead likes to follow the motto "coffee until cocktails." Dante Colombo, manager of Wake the Dead, said that they want people to have coffee until they are ready for something stronger. But Wake the Dead doesn’t just serve drinks, they also serve breakfast for dinner, including the Death Star Sandwich. The Death Star Sandwich is an egg sandwich with a twist. It includes egg, fontina cheese, a choice of ham or bacon, lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s special sauce. The whole thing is placed between a un-glazed do-nut. Deanna Vierling, an employee at Wake the Dead, said that the sandwich is really popular among customers. “I have had a few people tell me they get it every time they come in, but a lot of people are like oh I have to try it,” she said. As for unique drinks, Wake the Dead also has Cereal Killer Cocktails, with flavors including fruit loops, frosted flakes, and cinnamon toast crunch. Vierling said that the cinnamon toast crunch cocktail is the most popular and that it tastes a lot like the leftover milk from the cereal. “I have had people order them and they will drink one and say, ‘This is really good, it’s really sweet so I’m not going to stick with it but I’m really happy I tried it,’” she said. Colombo said a lot of their menu items are based off of the concept of doing something fun that Lawrence hasn’t seen before. “We are one of Lawrence’s only downtown do-nut shops, but we wanted to focus a large part of our food menu on donuts,” he said. Colombo said that it’s a fun place and fun idea. “We wanted something that was Instagram-able and kind of fun so we wanted to play off the bar vibe and keep the energy rolling,” he said. "Is The Order a Rabbit?" Hops Into Japanese Theaters in November Limited theatrical release was originally scheduled for Spring of 2017 http://www.crunchyroll.com/anime-news/2017/06/25/is-the-order-a-rabbit-hops-into-japanese-theaters-in-november The Rabbit House cafe is back in business, because the Is The Order a Rabbit? ~Dear My Sister~ special episode once again has an official theatrical release date for a limited run at 40 movie theaters in Japan beginning on November 11, 2017. The special was originally scheduled to debut in Spring of 2017, but the release was delayed due to unspecified "production circumstances". The main staff for the special episode includes: Director: Hiroyuki Hashimoto Original work, screenplay: Koi, Hiroyuki Hashimoto Character design: Yousuke Okuda Music: Ruka Kawada Animation production: production doA Additionally, it was also announced that the official theme song CD for Is The Order a Rabbit? ~Dear My Sister~ will be released on November 11, 2017, and that a new character song CD will be released in October of 2017. The original Is the Order a Rabbit? manga by Koi is serialized in Houbunsha's Manga Time Kirara Max seinen manga magazine. The previous two seasons of Is the Order a Rabbit? are directed by Hiroyuki Hashimoto and feature animation by White Fox and Kinema Citrus. Crunchyroll describes the series as follows: Kokoa arrives in a new town in spring to start high school. She gets lost and pops into a coffee shop called "Rabbit House", which turns out to be where she will live. All the characters are so cute - tiny but cool Chino, soldierly Lize, gentle and Japanese Chiyo, sophisticated but down-to-earth Sharo. They are joined by Chino's class mates Maya and Megu, and a regular at the shop, Mr. Blue-Mountain Aoyama. Everything is so cute every day at Rabbit House! Warrior rabbit is a winner for Kieran http://www.iwcp.co.uk/news/entertainment/warrior-rabbit-is-a-winner-for-kieran-315553.aspx A ONE-EARED rabbit has won Island author Kieran Larwood the Blue Peter Book Award. The book, Podkin One-Ear, has also been named Waterstones’ Book of the Month. The adventure tale, inspired by The Hobbit, is the legendary tale of Podkin, ‘a fearsome warrior rabbit whose reputation for cunning and triumph in battle has traveled the ages’. Kieran is an early years leader at Wroxall Primary School. He won The Times children’s fiction competition in 2011 with his debut novel, Freaks. The Blue Peter Book Award celebrates children’s books published in the past year in two categories — the best story and the best book with facts. Around 400 children were sent a copy of the short list, asked to read them and select their favourite. Kieran said: “It was quite special to win something judged by a young audience. It really was amazing — I was thrilled because I didn’t expect to win.” Podkin One-Ear is the first in a trilogy, with the second book due out in September. Kieran has been signing books at Waterstones across the country and will be signing an exclusive edition copy, with a special cover, tomorrow (Saturday) from 2pm to 4pm at Waterstones, Newport. Bunny Park revamp to enter next stage http://citizen.co.za/news/news-national/1547987/bunny-park-revamp-enter-next-stage/ The estimated cost of Phase 1 was R3.7 million. Phase 1 of the Bunny Park’s revamp will be concluded at the end of June, reports the Benoni City Times. According to Themba Gadebe, Ekurhuleni metro spokesperson, the second phase will commence on July 1 and last until the end of June next year. The facility will remain closed to the public until at least the end of Phase Two. “About R8 million has been set aside for the second phase of revamping of the park,” Gadebe said. “This will include the upgrading of the gazebos, installation of playground equipment, upgrade of the bunny shelters and installation of new park furniture. “Work in the park during the second phase will also include construction of mini-bridges, a new pump house, fencing around the animal shelters and the addition of gabions.” The estimated cost of Phase One was R3.7 million. It was focused on dredging two of the park’s three dams and connecting them through canals, to ensure the water doesn’t become stagnant. Gadebe said after the construction period, vegetation will be planted and allowed to grow before any animals are brought back to the park. The material dredged from the dams will be used as a natural fertilizer for the vegetation. The cows, sheep, goats, some birds and one pig were moved to temporary foster homes by mid-May, where they will remain for the duration of the revamp. Local breeder's rabbits win best in show thanks to tender, loving care http://www.swvatoday.com/news/article_f474e21b-50a6-593d-9429-f8745d72a175.html ABINGDON, Va. — Nina Cipriani has had hare-raising experiences ever since she was a child. Known in the community as the “rabbit lady,” the Abingdon woman learned a lot about rabbits when she was growing up in town. Her first pet rabbit was Butterscotch, a New Zealand Red. “I’ve always had at least one rabbit since then,” she said. Now, her Abingdon farm, Rattle Creek Rabbitry, is home to 45 of the cute and fluffy animals, most of which are Rhinelander and Jersey Wooly show rabbits. Each year, Cipriani is a judge of rabbits entered in the agricultural show at the Washington County Fair in Abingdon. She also speaks to students about raising rabbits at local 4-H meetings during the school year. Cipriani’s granddaughter, Hattie Galbreath, is carrying on the family tradition. The grandchild recently received Best in Show in the youth category at a competition where she showed a retired Jersey Wooly, a calm and good beginner rabbit for children. “Now, she has two rabbits of her own. It’s a good start for her,” said Cipriani. Throughout her life, Cipriani has gone different directions with rabbits. She raises them for their wool. Cipriani collects wool from her Angora rabbits by clipping or brushing them every three months. She has spun yarn from the rabbit wool and plans to make something from the yarn. She raises rabbits for their meat. “It’s one of the healthiest meats you can eat. The majority of my New Zealand white rabbits are sold to people to produce a healthy meat source for their families,” she said. But raising pet and show rabbits has got to be a favorite hobby for her. The couple spends at least an hour each day feeding and watering the rabbits, two hours each week grooming and one day every two weeks focusing on cleaning and maintenance. Cipriani and Charlie Sutherland, a friend in Blacksburg, Virginia, discussed how there were no rabbit shows in the area. Within six months, the friends developed the Southwest Virginia Rabbit Association (SWVARA), an incorporated chapter with the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Their first show was held a year ago in a small metal building in Christiansburg, but since then the shows have been moved to a spacious livestock arena at Virginia Tech. Cipriani said anyone interested in learning more about rabbits can visit the upcoming SWVARA show on Nov. 11 at the livestock arena in Blacksburg, Virginia.

Intro ⦁ This week we are going to explore the French Lop Rabbit breed. ⦁ Item of the Week: Holmes window fan ⦁ The plant of the Week: Sweeds and Turnips ⦁ Word of the Week: Alleys ⦁ Folktale: Rabbit and Dear race ⦁ And finally end with the rabbit news of the week If you would like to support the podcast, you can support through Patreon for one dollar a month. Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators you can also support the podcast, and help keep the lights on, whenever you use Amazon through the link at Hare of the Rabbit on the support the podcast page. It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. If you’d like to get “more bunny for your money,” there’s not much better choice than the French Lop. If this breed can be described in one word, it is “cuddly.” This is the only lop-eared beed that is placed in the “giant” size category, and Frenchies are gentle giants indeed. Although French Lops are not widely bred due to the space and feed they require, a number of people keep “just one” as a cuddle bunny. By breeding together the English Lop and the Flemish Giant or French Butterfly rabbit back in the 19th Century, fanciers developed the hugely popular French Lop rabbit. The French is different from it’s English cousin as it’s bigger and its drooping ears are shorter. It also weighs slightly more. The lovely French Lop usually weighs in at around four-and-a-half kilograms, but can weigh more and can live to be more then five years old. French Lops are 1 of 5 lop-eared breeds that the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) recognizes. They are the largest breed of lop, weighing in at 11 lbs. minimum when they reach their adult age class. Some can weigh as much as 16 lbs., while 12-13 lbs. seems to be an average weight within the breed. History The French Lop rabbit was first bred in France around 1850 by a Frenchman named Condenier. There were several other breeders that bred the Lops during this time period, however the credit is given to Condenier as the originator of this breed. The French Lop breed resulted from a cross between the English Lop and the Butterfly rabbit of France. The Butterfly rabbit is still bred in France and can be seen at the Grand Prix Show in Paris. This rabbit closely resembles our Flemish Giant of today, but is shorter in body and weighs approximately 15 pounds. The French Lop Rabbit was first breed in France and established in France as a rabbit for meat during the mid-19th century. Between the period of 1850-1910 there was great popularity of both the French and English Lop on the continent of Europe and in England. In fact, they were referred to as the "King Of The Fancy". Mr. Woodgate of England contributes the downfall of the French and English Lops due to the fact that they obtained such perfection during this period that they lost their challenge to the breeders. The French Lop increased in popularity in neighboring countries such as Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands. In 1933, it was reported that ten French Lop Rabbits were brought over from the Netherlands and exhibited in the UK, although it was not until the 1960s that French Lop Rabbits became a popular mainstream rabbit breed in the UK. French Lop Rabbits were imported into the United States in 1970-1971. As rabbit fancying became more popular the breed was further developed to have a thickset body that was heavily boned and a large bulldog shaped skull. The French Lop bred today differs greatly from its original form in that it functions more as a companion and exhibition animal today, than as a meat and fur producing animal of the past. Overall Description Giant and cuddly, French lops are the largest breed of lop rabbits. In fact they are the only lop considered a “giant” breed. They are gentle giants with a commercial body type and glossy rollback fur. The French Lop is a very large rabbit, typically weighing around 10-15 pounds, they don't have a maximum weight in the show standard. With lop ears of between 5 and 8 inches long that hang down below the jaw, and an almost cubic appearance with a short thickset body and large head. The front legs are short and straight and the hind legs are carried parallel to the body. The French Lop has a dense, soft coat that comes in two color varieties: solid and broken, and within these categories can be found a number of different rabbit colors. The French Lop comes in many colors and these can either be solid, or broken – where they can display a mixture of white and another color. Colors include white, blue, black, agouti, chinchilla and sable, among others. The fur is short, dense and very soft. Their ears are usually 5-8 inches long and hang just below the jaw, but aren’t as long as the English Lop’s. French Lops also have a thick body and a large head with a wide forehead and chubby cheeks. Their ears are well-shaped and fall open without folding over. Body French Lop bodies should be shaped more or less like New Zealands, and should feel like boulders. They are prone to becoming a little flabby and developing a “skirt” – that is, a roll of skin and fur around the lower hindquarter. The coat is a long and glossy rollback, which means that the fur slowly and gently returns to its original position when stroked against the grain. The head is set moderately high on the shoulders and is broad and bold. Ears are topped with a fluffy crown. Maximum ear length is not desired on this lop breed like it is on the English. Ear carriage and shape are important. Ears should be horseshoe shaped and fall open without folding or rolling. French lops have a rollback coat, which needs little grooming. Simply brushing it once a week should be enough to remove loose fur. When they are molting more grooming may be necessary. Again, many color varieties available which include Black, White, Brown, Blue, Agouti, Chinchilla, Opal. Sooty Fawn, Siamese Sable, Orange, Fawn, Steel and Butterfly. The French Lop has a good climate tolerance for all climates Important Things to Look out for When Buying Show Stock: Things to Avoid: A long, narrow, or flat body. Hindquarters that are chopped or undercut. Junior does with large dewlaps. Long, narrow head or flat crown. Pointed muzzle. Blemished ears, ears with poor carriage, narrow, folded, or thin ears. Ears that turn out away from the rabbit’s cheeks. Weak ankles. Broken patterned rabbits with unmatched toenails. Fine bone is a disqualification. Fur that is silky, long, harsh, thin, or very short. care A French Lop is able to live outside and inside; a large waterproof hutch that shelters the rabbit from any rain, snow, or heat is acceptable with a run attached. French Lops do not handle heat well, so make sure they have adequate protection like a frozen water bottle or a fan. If kept inside, a hutch or a cage can be used. It is infinitely preferable to keep rabbits in pairs - you should only ever consider getting a single rabbit if you can spend several hours a day with them. The rabbits should have a large run for exercise and mental stimulation - lack of exercise can contribute to obesity, gut stasis and behavioral issues. Due to their relatively larger size in comparison to other breeds, the French Lop may require a large hutch/run to move around freely. They fare well in both outdoor and indoor cages but keep in mind they are still rabbits and not dogs and they will chew and you need to bunny proof. A large wooden hutch should be provided for the French Lop – he’s a big rabbit and will need plenty of space in his home to hop, stretch out and stand if he chooses to. The hutch should be placed out of direct drafts and full sun and could be placed in a light, well-ventilated shed if there is one available. If not, his hutch should be fully waterproof and should have a mesh front with a cover to keep out any wind or driving rain, and he should also have a covered area where he can build his nest and escape for some peace and quiet. If your rabbit is going to be kept in the house he can have the run of the place providing anything important is kept out of the way. Take the time to litter train him and he will be clean too, although he will appreciate somewhere quiet to rest where he will not be disturbed. French Lops can be very lazy creatures and sometimes he will appreciate a place where he can observe the action, rather than take part in it. He will also love a nice warm lap to sit on too. They can live perfectly well indoors or outdoors but it must be remembered that this is a rabbit and not a dog or cat. They will chew indiscriminately so anything you treasure, including shoes, mobile phones, clothes and cables and wires, should all be kept well out of the way. He can be litter trained, but as a rabbit, it will not be easy and will take time and patience. That said, it can be done! diet It is recommended that the French Lop receive a standard intake of a high quality, high protein pellet. It is common for some owners to provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Commercial treats are available in the pet stores in shops and can be occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically feature a higher sugar and starch content. Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are romaine lettuce, turnips, collards, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radish and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables should be introduced slowly due to the delicate digestive systems of rabbits. It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Vegetables such as potatoes and corn should also avoided due to their high starch content. Research what kind of fruits, vegetables and greens are rabbit-friendly and if you’re not sure if a particular food can be eaten, the rule of thumb is simply not to give it to them. Stop, research, and/or ask your veterinarian if it is bunny-safe before feeding. French Lops also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle. A proper diet is also important to ensure other digestive problems don’t develop. For example, if your rabbit develops diarrhea because of a poor diet, their soiled coat can attract flies in the warmer months (especially if it is outdoors) and if the rabbit is unable to groom himself properly, the flies can lay eggs in his fur (near the bottom). When those eggs hatch, they will begin to eat your rabbit while they are still alive, causing them extreme pain- this is called fly-strike. To avoid this, make sure your rabbit eats a balanced diet and check their fur for any flies that may have landed on soiled fur. Health Breeding The ideal age for the female French Lop rabbit to start breeding is 9 months. It is recommended that they should not have any more litters after the age of three years. The French Lop rabbit can produce large litters, usually between 5 and 12 with a gestation period of between 28 and 31 days. On average they give birth at 30–32 days. The French Lop does not have any health issues particular to its breed, however As with most rabbit breeds, there are some conditions which affect the species as a whole that are the biggest threat to your pet’s otherwise good health. Dental issues are the number one cause of illness in rabbits so it’s vital that you keep a close eye on the quality of your rabbits teeth. By feeding a diet that’s high in fiber and roughage, your rabbit’s continuously growing teeth will be kept worn down. They can suffer with overgrown teeth and enamel spurs and if these are allowed to develop your pet could find it difficult to eat or may develop injuries in his mouth that may become infected. Prevention is better than cure so providing a diet that’s high in good quality hay and fibrous green vegetables is essential if you are to avoid dental problems. A good diet is also crucial to the health of your rabbit’s digestive tract and if the diet is not adequate, he can easily develop diarrhea. The French Lop also has a tendency to become a little overweight, which most rabbit parents don’t notice because of its already large size. Being overweight can cause a multitude of other health issues so always be aware of how much you are feeding your gentle giant. Watch the French lop’s condition, they tend to get a little flabby. They can develop a “skirt” of loose skin around their hindquarters. Temperament/behavior This is a bunny that simply loves to be adored, and he’ll return that adoration tenfold. The French Lop is renowned for its gentle, docile demeanor and he will tolerate handling and other animals and children very well. Providing your animal is socialized and handled correctly from a young age he will make an affectionate and playful companion and will be fantastic with children. It should be remembered that because he is a larger rabbit he can be strong and will not make a suitable pet for a first-time owner. Their hind legs are very powerful and the can kick out if startled, which, if you are holding him at the time, could cause injury. They are known to have a placid and relaxed temperament, and can tolerate other species. When socialized well at a young age they are a wonderful family pet, and are very gentle with children. Rabbits are highly social animals and should always be kept with a companion - however care should be taken when introducing them as adults. Neutered rabbits will be less likely to fight - male-female pairs tend to be strongest. Like all rabbits, they may go through a "teenager" stage, where they are reaching sexual maturity and might become aggressive. It's less common in the French Lops though than other breeds. Apart from their distinctive appearance, French Lops are also distinguished by their endearing and gentle temperaments. Bred for decades to be an easily handled breed, their large, imposing frames are misleading as most French Lops are very docile in nature, they are usually quite fond of interaction with humans and are much less active and more relaxed than a great number of other rabbit breeds. The French Lop thrives on human interaction and loves to be picked up and petted. This large breed of rabbit makes for a wonderful pet due to their calm, docile temperament. These gentle giants have a huge personality each different than the other rabbit. At first glance, it can be mistaken as a small dog but make no mistake about it, this rabbit is just as cuddly as any dog you’ve ever had. They thrive on human interaction and love to be picked up and petted, making them ideal for couples who want to take the next step into pet parenthood or singles who would like some animal companionship. As a good natured and social animal, the breed will thrive on interaction with people as well as with other rabbits. They can be quite playful and will enjoy some simple toys to keep them occupied. The French Lop does tends to have large litters, sometimes with as many as twelve offspring. The average lifespan of a French Lop rabbit is about 5 to 7 years. uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use. Even though this is a large breed of rabbit, they are gentle and easily handled. This makes them good for pets or show rabbits as well as meat production. At a minimum of eleven pounds, it is occasionally mistaken for a small dog at first glance. Unlike some other giant breeds, the French Lop has commercial body type rather than semi-arch. Although perhaps slow to grow out, the French Lop yields a good amount of meat and can even be shown in market pen classes. The French Lop rabbit was mainly developed as a meat rabbit breed. And was a very popular meat rabbit breed in the mid 19th century. The breed is very suitable for commercial rabbit farming business for meat production. French lops are most commonly used as show rabbits, though with their large, commercial type they can also be used for meat. In fact, they can be shown in the meat classes. French lops also make good pets, as long as you keep in mind that these rabbits are at least 11 pounds, and will need roomy cages. Today it is a popular meat rabbit breed and also raised as pets and show animal. The French Lop is a large breed of rabbit that makes for a wonderful pet, due to their calm, docile temperament. Club The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership. Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy. With over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, its members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial rabbit raiser with several hundred animals. Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry, whether it be for fancy, as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by the organization. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Originally founded as The Beveren Club in 1918, its name first changed to British Fur Rabbit Society and finally to The British Rabbit Society. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Owners of house rabbits are also encouraged to join the organization to learn how to care optimally for their pets. “Presented” means that they are there on exhibit for the ARBA committee to see and vote on if they would like to accept the new breed. The breed is recognized by both the American Rabbit Breeders Association and the British Rabbit Council. The French Lop Color Guide allows many colors, but this breed is shown in only two classifications: solid pattern and broken pattern. Today the French Lop shares a national specialty club with the English Lop, and that’s fitting enough, since they were brought to this country along with the English Lop in the early stages of the American rabbit fancy. The breed was first developed in France, as the name suggests. The first record of it being shown is in 1850, by a breeder named Condenier. It is not one of the most popular breeds, but also is not in danger of extinction at this time. Learn About the History and Objectives of the Lop Rabbit Club of America. In April of 1971, the National Lop Rabbit Club of America was formed and later became known as the Lop Rabbit Club of America. The object of the LRCA is to popularize, promote and improve the breeding of the Lop rabbits, to encourage fanciers and exhibitors with the help of this club's services which are at their disposal. Our American Standard has for years recognized both Lop breeds. Through the great efforts of many early Lop breeders, the Lops have gained enormous popularity and recognition in this country. The original stock was imported from Switzerland, Holland, Belgium and Germany during 1970-1971. The future of our French and English Lops in America looks bright and promising. The Lop Rabbit Club of America invites you to join our organization. We are one of the most progressive Rabbit Clubs in America. As a member, you will receive our Official Club Guidebook, plus the Lop Digest which is published quarterly. Most importantly, you will be able to enjoy the breeding and exhibiting of two of the most unique and irresistible breeds of rabbits known to man - The French and English Lops Have I Missed Anything? If you know something about the breed standard, history or status of this rabbit, please let me know. Do You Have a Story About This Particular Breed? What do you love about them? Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make this breed happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of this type of rabbit. Let us know, and maybe we can set up an interview? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Lop https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/breeds/rabbits/french-lop/ http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/breedsrabbitfrench-lop/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/french-lop-rabbits http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/french-lop-rabbit-breed-information/ http://www.frenchlopcare.com/about-the-french-lop-breed.html http://www.lrca.us/ http://www.roysfarm.com/french-lop-rabbit/ Every week I would like to bring you an item on Amazon that I personally use or has been purchased by many members of the audience, and I have researched enough to recommend. This weeks item is a window fan! I have had a Holmes window fan for over ten years. It has a temperature setting so that you can set it to come on at a specific temperature. I have used it in the window to draw in or out air, and I have used it in a door way to move air from one room to another. This could be used in a room with a rabbit to draw cool air through from outside, or if you have a rabbit barn with a window, this Holmes window fan could be used to draw some air through. This Holmes window fan is cost effective and draws in fresh, cool air from the outside or exhausts stale, hot air from inside. The Holmes window fan can do both simultaneously because each of the two fans can be set independently to draw in or exhaust out, allowing the unit to exchange inside and outside air. Operable either manually or automatically—with its thermostat turning the fans off and on to maintain a selected temperature—the unit has a one-touch electronic control and two speeds so it can be adjusted to specific conditions. It's designed to fit double-hung, vertical-slider, and casement windows.   Plant of the week - Sweeds and Turnips Word of the week: Alleys Our FolkTale: http://www.native-languages.org/trickster-rabbit.htm Rabbit is the trickster figure in many Southeastern Indian tribes. The Rabbit Trickster is generally a light-hearted character who does not engage in serious wrongdoing and features in many children's stories; however, like most tricksters, he is prone to humorously inappropriate behavior, particularly gluttony, carelessness, and an overinflated ego. In the folklore of some Southeastern tribes, it was Rabbit who stole fire and brought it to the people. http://www.firstpeople.us/FP-Html-Legends/HowtheDeerGotHisHorns-Cherokee.html In the beginning the deer had no horns, but his head was smooth just like the doe's, He was a great runner and the rabbit was a great jumper, and the animals were all curious to know which could go farther in the same time. They talked about it a good deal, and at last arranged a match between the two, and made a nice pair of antlers for a prize to the winner. They were to start together from one side of the thicket and go through it, then turn and come back, and the one who came out first was to get the horns. On the day fixed all the animals were there, with the antlers put down on the ground at the edge of the thicket to mark the starting point, While everybody was admiring the horns the rabbit said: "I don't know this part of the country; I want to take a look through the bushes where I am to run.". They thought that was all right, so the rabbit went into the thicket, but he was gone so long that at last the animals suspected he must be up to one of his tricks. They sent a messenger to look for him, and away in the middle of the thicket he found rabbit gnawing down the bushes and pulling them away until he had a road cleared nearly to the other side. The messenger turned around quietly and came back and told the other animals. When the rabbit came out at last they accused him of cheating, but he denied it until they went into the thicket and found the cleared road. They agreed that such a trickster had no right to enter the race at all, so they gave the horns to the deer, who was admitted to be the best runner, and he has worn them ever since. They told the rabbit that as he was so fond of cutting down bushes he might do that for a living hereafter, and so he does to this day.   News Carla Wilson 1949 - 2017 http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/thestarpress/obituary.aspx?n=carla-wilson&pid=185872286&fhid=19244 Carla Wilson, 68 Portland - Carla Wilson, age 68, a resident of Portland, passed away on Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at IU Methodist Hospital in Indianapolis. Carla was born February 7, 1949, in New Castle, Indiana, the daughter of Noel and Kathleen (Williamson) Myers. She graduated from Wes-Del High School in 1968. Carla worked at the Pennville Library for many years and was also an ARBA Rabbit Judge for many years. She was a member of the Hickory Grove Church of the Brethren; she was also a member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, Indiana Rabbit Breeders Association and also a Jay County and Delaware County 4-H Leader. She married Larry Wilson on September 20, 1969. Survivors include her loving husband: Larry Wilson - Portland, Indiana; 2 sons: Kelly (wife Jennifer) Wilson - Portland, Indiana and Aaron (fiancé Nicolle Courtney) Wilson - Muncie, Indiana; 1 daughter: Linsy (husband Cody) Zigler - Lynn, Indiana; 2 brothers: Dave (wife Kaye) Myers - Orlando, Florida and Ron (wife Linda) Myers - Fayetteville, North Carolina; 1 sister: Emma Lou Bocook - Munising, Michigan; and 5 grandchildren. Visitation for Carla Wilson will be held on Thursday from 4-8 p.m. at the Williamson and Spencer Funeral Home in Portland. Funeral services will be held on Friday at 11 a.m. at the Williamson and Spencer Funeral Home in Portland with Pastor Earl Doll officiating the service. Burial will follow in Gardens of Memory Cemetery in Muncie, Indiana. Memorials may be directed to Hickory Grove Church of the Brethren. Envelopes will be provided at the funeral home. Online condolences may be sent to www.williamsonspencer.com. Published in The Star Press on June 22, 2017     Hundreds of Animals Still Recovering After Being Found in Fresno Moving Truck http://www.yourcentralvalley.com/news/hundreds-of-animals-still-recovering-after-being-found-in-fresno-moving-truck/746534266 FRESNO, Calif. -- Nearly 1,000 animals are still being cared for after being found in an old moving truck in South West Fresno on Friday. Fresno Humane Animal services officials said many of the animals are recovering but some may have a long road ahead. Kendyll Lyons, a kennel worker at Fresno Animal Humane Services has been working long hours to make sure the hundreds of birds, bunnies, quail and others at Fresno Humane Animal Services survive. "We have had the occasional bunny, the occasional rabbit but never anything like this," said Lyons, kennel worker, Fresno humane animal services. On Friday, Fresno Humane Animal Service employees said they recovered 955 animals from a moving truck in Southwest Fresno. "It was 107 degrees inside when we got there and certainly that is not as hot as it has been. Thank goodness for that," said Brenda Mitchell, Fresno Humane Animal Services Board President. The animals were transferred to Fresno Humane Animal Services' air conditioned warehouse, where they have been closely monitored. But, even with the care from animal experts, officials said 10 have died since Friday. "I don't know if it is related to those conditions but certainly their age and the fact that they are fragile little creatures," said Mitchell. Officials said they could lose even more animals. Many of the birds have injuries, feather loss and officials said many of the rabbits are too young to be without their mothers. "I would be very surprised if some of the little rabbits made it," said Lyons. The workers said they will continue taking care of each one until they are fully recovered. Officials said when their investigation is complete they will start finding homes for all of these animals.     A 'Furfest' in Wytheville http://www.swvatoday.com/news/article_20980352-5856-11e7-8b75-572ee59e7b10.html The fur was flying at Wither’s Park Thursday morning as adults and children gathered, along with dogs, a cat, even a rabbit, for the annual Chautauqua “Furfest” pet show. Border collie Greeley Joe was top dog, taking home the People’s Choice and Best in Show Awards. Greeley Joe’s owner, Cora Chrisley, 15, said she started training the 1-year-old pup when he was about 6 weeks old. “Just whenever we would play or during potty time,” she said. Nothing special. He takes to it really well.” Already, Greeley Joe can sit, lie down, shake hands, circle, catch a Frisbee and fetch (which he loves). The Best in Show Award is awarded in memory of Marsha Jones, a Wythe Arts Council member who promoted the pet show for years before she died in 2007. Her family has continued to sponsor the Best in Show Award in her memory. Jones’ young family members, Cali and Beach Molinary, attended the show. Nearby, Debbie Yates watched her 6-year-old granddaughter, Kyla Yates, play with her rabbit, Cocoa, who took home second place for the cutest pet. They also entered golden retriever Nellie in the show, who snapped up third place in the “best trick” category. She shakes hands. “We came just for fun and to watch; we love the festival,” Debbie Yates said. “I thought it would be good for her (Kyla) to participate. She did real well walking her out there. I think it builds self-confidence, don’t you?” Patty Hall’s Pomeranian, Shadow, won honorable mention in the “cutest” category. Hall’s friend, Ann Harrison, arrived too late to enter her Shih Tzu, Gizmo. They were at the pet show with 10-year-old Gaige Dawson and Hall’s daughter, Christi Armbrister, who was visiting from Fort Walton Beach, Florida. “We just came to watch,” Harrison said. “It’s so neat and wonderful to see all the dogs and we saw a rabbit and a cat and some sweet people.” Here are the Furfest results: Look Alike: First place: Chloe (Annette Gilliam) Second Place: Greeley Joe (Cora Chrisley) Best Trick: First place: Greeley Joe (Cora Chrisley) Second place: Chloe (Annette Gilliam) Third place: Nellie (Debbie Yates) Honorable Mention: Copper (Oscar Montgomery) Largest: First place: Baby (Payton) Second place: Chloe (Annette Gilliam) Third place: Bo (Jackie Alley) Honorable Mention: Copper (Oscar Montgomery) Smallest: First place: George (Cora Chrisley) Second place: Lanie (Lili Belle) Third place: Romeo (Zachary Coley) Honorable Mention: Roscoe (Maranda/Mariah Wall) Best Costume: First place: Keni (Oscar Montgomery) Second place: Roscoe (Maranda/Mariah Wall) Third place: Baby (Payton) Cutest: First place: Benji (Joe and Marsha Turpin) Second place: Cocoa (Kyla Yates) Third place: Peanut (Blair Jackson) Honorable Mentions: Shadow (Patty Hall), Nellie (Debbie Yates), Bo (Jackie Alley), Addison (Cora Chrisley) People’s Choice: Greeley Joe (Cora Chrisley) Best in Show: Greeley Joe (Cora Chrisley) To reach Millie Rothrock, call 288-6611, ext. 35, or email mrothrock@wythenews.com.     Colorado's Iconic Rabbit Ears Peak just lost a chunk of its ear http://www.9news.com/news/local/colorados-rabbit-ears-peak-loses-chunk-of-ear/449687186 STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, COLO. (AP) - An iconic sight near Steamboat Springs is missing something. Rabbit Ears Peak looks a little different after losing a chunk of one of its ears. Steamboat Pilot & Today reported Thursday the western ear of Colorado's iconic landmark is significantly skinnier and pointier following what appears to be an erosion event at the top of the rock formation. The Rabbit Ears are remains of pyroclastic materials, which are layers of extruded rock and ash. It's a popular landmark and hiking spot for tourists and locals alike. Dr. Barbara EchoHawk, a professor of Geology at Metro State University, says Rabbit Ears Peak is the result of volcanic explosions from 30 million years ago. Check out the before and after here. Because of the way the magma erupted in a vent from the ground, Dr. EchoHawk says there are some large and some smaller pieces of volcanic rock. During its formation, these pieces were broken by steam eruptions, causing cracks in the rock, that eventually, naturally, will crumble and fall away as these cracks line up with other joints in the rock. Even the rabbit ears themselves are just smaller, leftover pieces of the original formation. Dr. EchoHawk says more erosion can be expected in the future as the rock and its cracks freeze, thaw, freeze and thaw. U.S. Forest Service District Ranger Chad Stewart says he made a point to look at Rabbit Ears Peak on a drive he took this week after he was informed of the possible change in the rock's appearance. The piece that broke off was at a height that would not be easily accessible to humans. Stewart says there are also no rock climbers permitted to operate at the rock formation, making this scenario more unlikely than natural erosion     On View | 'Bunny Attack: An Exhibit of Illustration and Photography http://host.madison.com/wsj/entertainment/arts_and_theatre/visual/on-view-bunny-attack-an-exhibit-of-illustration-and-photography/article_c5249055-1dd3-5998-a604-0ccf04fd401f.html Dreams, nature and dark emotions stimulated the creativity displayed by artist Bunny Attack at Bos Meadery, 849 E. Washington Ave., Suite 116. “Bunny Attack: An Exhibit of Illustration and Photography” will be on view through the end of June. “It is through a quiet observation that most of my work comes to life,” Bunny Attack said in her artist’s statement. “Introverted and imaginative, I spend my life in a state of observation and interpretation; I am mostly drawn to the colors of the fading day, the patterns and details presented in the natural world, the stories that come to life via melodies, harmonies and lyrics in my favorite music.” Bunny Attack’s works in the exhibit include black-and-white illustrations featuring anthropomorphic animals, sullen self-portraits, and double-exposed film photography that all carry a dark and mysterious theme. Part of her earlier collection “The Dangers of Living,” all the black-and-white work was composed once she had developed a personal style she was happy with and was able to really focus on creating detailed illustrations. “The newest works have more color, and are a bit more playful, although still being on the darker side of things,” Bunny Attack said in her press release. Bunny Attack has no formal art education other than a couple of photography classes. “Drawing has been a favorite (pastime) for as long as I can remember, and in high school I picked up a love for photography,” said Bunny Attack in an email. “It took time and much trial and error to develop the style I have now, and I’m happy with the work I’ve produced thus far and am excited to experiment more and advance in my techniques.”   William Shatner From Captain Kirk to ... Bunny Handler!!! http://www.tmz.com/2017/06/17/william-shatner-better-late-than-never-cast-bunny-rabbit-show/ EXCLUSIVE William Shatner may have explored new worlds where no man has gone before, but now he's in Sweden ... running around with rabbits. The legendary "Star Trek" actor is in Stockholm shooting for his new comedy/reality show "Better Late Than Never" ... and showed off his skills as a bunny handler. Spoiler alert -- he wasn't great at it. Rabbit show jumping is big in Sweden -- kind of like the Westminster Dog Show in the U.S. Shatner and his fellow cultural icons on the show -- Henry Winkler, Terry Bradshaw and George Foreman -- all took part in the rabbit racing and looked like they had a blast. As usual, host Jeff Dye was their guide.  

Today we are going to explore The Himalayan Rabbit Breed. But first we are going to cover Rabbit Awareness Week which is from June 17th - 25th, 2017 This is the 11th year for Rabbit Awareness Week and the 2017 campaign is focusing on the importance of hay! #HoptoHay RAW is run by a collaboration of organizations: The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund, The Blue Cross, PDSA, RSPCA, Wood Green, Burgess Pet Care and Agria Pet Insurance. This team pick a new theme each year and aim to provide information to both veterinary professionals and the general public about key aspects of rabbit care. Many veterinary clinics sign up to RAW and offer a range of events and promotions – you can visit the RAW website to see who has signed up and whats on offer. Rabbit Awareness Week (RAW) is an important week for rabbits. Over the past 11 years we have made it the biggest and best campaign about rabbit care and welfare in the UK! The UK is a nation of self-confessed pet lovers with recent research showing that rabbits are the 4th most popular pet in the UK with 0.8 million rabbits (PFMA Pet Population 2016 report). So we need to keep driving the messages about welfare for rabbits – especially for those pet owners who have got rabbits or are thinking about getting one! Every year Burgess Pet Care, together with its partners Agria Pet Insurance, RSPCA, PDSA, The Blue Cross, Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF) and Wood Green The Animals Charity join forces to focus on a different aspect of rabbit care and welfare. During the RAW week thousands of vets and practices across the UK offer free health clinics for local rabbits and their owners. So it doesn't matter if your rabbits have never been to the vet before, it's the perfect opportunity to get them health checked by the experts! Hundreds of retailers and rescue centers will be running fun and educational events to also spread the word about how to get the most out of pet rabbits by keeping them happy and healthy. I feel that raising rabbit awareness should continue all year long and throughout many countries, so I urge you all to embrace RAW and continue it longer than just the suggested week. Together we aim to improve the lives of the UK's rabbits and stop them getting a RAW deal! http://www.rabbitawarenessweek.co.uk/ http://www.rabbitawareness.co.uk/ you can also support the podcast, and help keep the lights on, whenever you use Amazon through the link at Hare of the Rabbit on the support the podcast page. It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Although the Himalayan's name suggests that it originated in the Himalayas, it is unknown exactly where its origins lie. It strikes one strange that one of the very oldest rabbit breeds remains so unique today. Indeed, several of the earliest-developed breeds still seem one-of-a-kind. The Himalayan breed is even has a body type category all to itself! In the United States, there are several breeds with commercial, compact, or full-arch body type, but no other with cylindrical! The Himalayan is one of the oldest rabbit breeds we have today. They have been around for so long, we are not sure when they first appeared, or where they originated. Though some say they are indeed from the Himalayan mountain area, records of these rabbits are found is several regions of the old world. History Much of the history condensed from articles about the Himalayan Rabbit's History, written and compiled by Carl "Eli" Shepherd. The Himalayan’s first appearance happened so long ago that its record has been lost. Some say it did indeed come from the Himalayan mountain area in the middle east, but the truth is that there are timeworn writings of it occurring in many areas of the old world.  Himalayans may have come to America during the “Belgian Hare boom” around 1900. They were one of the earliest breeds recognized in the United States. 1857 seems to offer the earliest mention of white rabbits with black points called “Africans.” The description bears no resemblance to today’s Himalayans, other than color. The source of these Himalayan-pointed “African” rabbits was nowhere near China or Africa – they were sports from crosses of tame Silver-Gray rabbits with local wild English Silver-Gray warren rabbits and some unspecified black rabbits, possibly also sourced from the warrens as the Silver-Grays were known to throw recessive black offspring. The History of the Himalayan rabbit is very vague. There are many thoughts and theories of Himalayans. Actually there is no sound solid proof of where the Himalayan rabbit actually came from. There is little tangible evidence to indicate that it even came from the Himalayan Mountain area as many claim. Records indicate that this rabbit is known by over 20 names, which cause one writer to comment that "It is the most Christian rabbit having so many names." This rabbit is called, in various parts of the world, the Russian, the Chinese, the Egyptian, the Black Nose, and on and on. Himalayans are one of the oldest breeds of rabbit known throughout the world, dating back to ancient times in countries like China, Tibet, and Russia. It is one of the few breeds that was not man-made by crossing different breeds of rabbit. It is known as one of the oldest established breeds with a wider distribution throughout the world than any other rabbit. Himalayans, for the most part, will breed true to type and color. It is believed at some remote time in its history, that its ancestors were Silver rabbits in part. As in some litters of today, at birth, soon seem to be white slightly tinged all over with silver gray, and some are almost a solid gray. The Silver-gray or the Solid gray gradually leaves the baby rabbit and its coat becomes snow white, with its extremities, (nose, ears, feet & tail) gradually darkening until they reach a rich, velvety Black, Blue, Chocolate or Lilac. History of the Himalayans in the United States Around the turn of the century, or real early 1900's, Himalayans were shipped into the united States from England, along with what he called the "Belgian Hare Boom." Most breeders of other breeds also had some Himalayans. As at that time, Himalayan fur was the best of all rabbit furs. Back then, they were known as the Ermine fur of rabbits. This was before Rex and Satin fur came along. Many raised them for their valuable fur, as well as to show. Eventually, breeders began to raise them to show, and they also became popular as pets. The American Pet Stock Association recognized black Himalayans in 1912. Later, the American Rabbit and Cavy Association granted a charter to the American Himalayan Association in 1931. The club name was later changed to the current “American Himalayan Rabbit Association.” History of the Blue Variety. Let the records on Himalayans reveal that Black Himalayans are the only naturally occurring variety. Other Varieties (colors) have been created by crossbreeding other breeds of rabbits to create the desired variety or color. The 2nd Variety of Himalayans were Blues. There are no accurate records on who or how the first Blue Himalayans were developed. Breeders in England worked for many years to create Blue Himalayans with many problems to attempt to correct to achieve the true Himalayan type on Blues. Their progress on Blues is very vague. What we do know is Blue Himalayans were accepted at Tampa, Florida, on October 30th, 1962 by AHRA members. Only four AHRA members were present at this meeting. A motion by R. Hanson, that the Blue Himalayan be accepted by AHRA. Motion was seconded by Francis Riffle. And from that day on we have had Blue Himalayans as the second variety. Interest in Blue Himalayans was not very strong for many years. A few dedicated breeders kept Blues alive. Blues were very scarce and very seldom seen in many parts of the United States. It was reported that Don Lovejoy imported a pair of Blue Seniors and a Blue Junior Doe from England in 1963. No one seems to have any information on these imported blue Himalayans. A 1976 Himmie News stated that Diane Ford of California was to try for a Blue Himmie by crossing a Blue Havana doe. No records on how this venture turned out. Over the years there were several breeders who opposed the Blue variety very strongly. Especially one long time, well known breeder from Maryland. Lack of interest in Blues and a few breeders opposed to the Blue variety. A proposal was put to the AHRA membership to eliminate Blues as a variety of Himalayans in the early 1980's. This vote was very close. Blues survived only by a few votes. The Blue variety survived mainly due to the efforts of Ron Smelt of California. Due to Ron Smelt's efforts to save the Blue Variety, two additional varieties of Himalayans have been introduced by Ron Smelt of California. Which are Chocolate and Lilac marked Himalayans. History of the Chocolate & Lilac Himalayans By: Ron Smelt (A.H.R.A. Hall of Fame member). He started with showing and breeding Himalayans in 1976.  At that time only Black Himalayans were obtainable in his area. Some of the active show people were David Holland, Dorothy Bayliss and Leonard Weir and Diane Ford, who were in the process of getting out of the breed. He liked the Himalayan a lot and inherited the breed from Diane Ford. It was the perfect sized rabbit for him with the space he was able to give it. He liked the unique type and what he called an sophisticated look to the breed. He realized right away that England showed the Himalayan in four varieties. Black, Blue, Chocolate and Lilac. Here in the US only in Black and Blue. He thought it would not be unpleasant to have all four colors showing against each other in the US. He felt that with the four colors would create interest and as a result competition. During this time he also was told by the late Don Lovejoy, that the Himalayan was a dying breed. He did not want to except this and felt that his goal was to try and create interest in this breed and so the mission was set for him to do my part and find a way. He realized that this quest to have the Chocolate and Lilac Himalayans become excepted would be a long one. He felt that he needed support of others who were interested in the idea of having four colors in the standard. Several people he talked to felt that the only good Himalayan was a black Himalayan. A few persons supported him in his quest. Some only liked the Chocolates and did not care for the idea of Lilac Himalayans. The first few years were difficult ones. In the late 70's he corresponded with a Himalayan breeder Mr. Fred Nellis who lived in England. He told him how they got the Chocolate gene introduced into the Himalayans was with the use of the English Spot. English Spots from time to time produced Solid colored animals. An English Spot breeder by the name of Linda Bell of California called him up one day and said she had a chocolate doe for him. This was bred to a small black 3 1/2 lb. buck from Dorothy and George Bayliss. This cross produced all solid black offspring. They were bred together and the first Chocolate marked appeared. These then were bred to other black Himalayans and then mated to each other and the rabbits were beginning to look like Himalayans. Some of these early chocolates were rather large and lacked the refined look. Through line breeding a smaller, finer boned chocolate Himalayan developed. (In 1992 Chocolates Passed first ARBA Showing, Columbus, OH) The Chocolate Himalayan was then bred to the Blue Himalayan and from in-breeding the first Lilac Himalayan appeared. These lilacs were dark lilacs, you can tell the difference when you put them next to a blue. When presenting them to the Standards Committee, they did not like the color, it was too dark and too close to the blue. So what to do? He had reached a brick wall. He had locked in the dark Lilac color into his himmies. At the same time Judy Ball, a Mini Rex breeder, was also trying to get the Lilac Mini Rex accepted by the ARBA Standards Committee. The Standards Committee liked her color Mini Rex Lilacs. An idea went into his head to introduce this color liked by the Standards Committee into the Lilac Himalayans. He knew that he would be introducing a Non-Himalayan gene as well as Mini Rex fur into the Himalayans, and in line breeding and in-breeding this Rex gene would materialize some where down the road. He made a difficult decision and was afraid that his present dark Lilac Himalayans would not pass the Standards Committee since he was told the lighten them, and so he did. The first cross was his purchased Mini Rex Lilac Buck (from Judy Ball) bred to a Lilac Himalayan Doe. All the babies were Lilac, and to his surprise two of them were Himalayan marked, the rest solid. He lucked out again with the two Himalayan-marked Lilacs were buck and doe. They both turned out to be rather coarse and so lacked refinement. They produced lighter Himalayans, and the color he was looking for. The Lilacs became the 4th Himalayan color to be recognized. With selective breeding and culling refinement in the Lilac Himalayan returned, with an added bonus of better fur quality. Now the problem of the Non-Himmie gene and the rex gene will be floating around in some of these himmies, but he feels we can cull this out since there were only a few of these Lilacs passed on to other breeders. These past fifteen years of trying to have Chocolate Himalayans and Lilac Himalayans accepted into the ARBA Standards Committee have been fun with some heart-ache and lots of challenges and he is so glad to have been able to do it. As we have covered in some of the breeds where one breed is crossed to create another, The Himalayan also plays an important part in many other breed's history, especially the Californian's, which looks like a large, meaty version of it. The Californian was made by crossing Himalayans with New Zealands and a few other breeds (some Californian breeders say it is just Himalayan and New Zealand, while others say the Standard Chinchilla was mixed in too). The Californian was added to many other breeds (like Champagne d'Argents and some lines of Cinnamon) to improve body type, so Himalayan marked sports pop up sometimes. Overall Description Description and Standards Himalayans are long and snaky in body, the only rabbit breed with this body type, which is described as “sophisticated” by Mr. Smelt. They are mainly white, with color limited to the points – ears, nose, paws and tail. The eyes are red. They are small, weighing up to 4.5 pounds (2 kg) according to standards in the USA and UK. The Himalayan generally breeds true in type and color. But occasionally, some newborn Himalayan kits are tinged with silver, and others are nearly solid gray. Not to worry - the pigmentation eventually leaves the baby kit, and its coat turns snow white. At the same time, its points darken to nearly black (or blue, chocolate, or lilac). Body The Himalayan rabbit is medium-sized breed of rabbit easily mistaken for the Californian rabbit. The body is white with colored points, recognized colors are black, blue, chocolate and lilac. They are one of the oldest and calmest breeds. Adult Himalayans weigh 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds (1 to 2 kg) with an ideal weight of 3 1/2 pounds. They are the only breed that is classified in shows as cylindrical. They are judged in a stretched-out position. They are posed stretched out, and their body is to be 3.5 head lengths. The Himalayan is posed with the body fully extended – stretched out as far as it will go while all four feet remain flat on the table. European Himalayans and American Himalayans have different poses. On most breeds, the top line of the body should be very round, but on a “Himie” it should be flat as possible. When looking at a posed Himalayan from above, the side body lines should be straight also, with little or no taper from the hindquarters to the shoulders.  Fur is a fly-back. All Himies are white with red eyes and colored markings on the points. Markings include an egg-shaped “smut” on the nose, colored “boots” on the feet, and colored ears and tail. The markings are black, blue, chocolate, or lilac, but the body is always pure white. The Himie color is found as a variety in a number of other breeds, such as Mini Rex and Netherland Dwarf. It’s called Californian in the Cal, Satin, and Rex, and pointed white in Jersey Woolies, lops, and angoras. The color can vary with the surrounding temperature: points become darker in colder climates and lighter in warmer ones. In fact, a rabbit can even develop a dark spot if it lies against a cold metal object such as a feed cup on a winter night. Color differences: The black color variety is the only one in the Himalayan that was not produced by crossbreeding. Other acceptable colors are blue, chocolate, and lilac. This breed is born solid white, but its colored markings develop with age. Coat A Himalayan rabbit’s fly-back fur is short, soft and doesn’t need much maintenance in order to keep its healthy sheen. Should you find your Himalayan rabbit is shedding more than usual (such as during spring), simply brush their fur 2-3 times per week or as required. Otherwise, a weekly brushing with spot-cleaning using a damp cloth should more than sufficient. Colors The Himalayan rabbit is well known for its markings, which are similar to the Himalayan cats'. The Himalayan rabbit’s body is always white with different colored markings. The markings include colored “boots”, an egg-shaped marking on its nose and a colored tail and ears. The markings can be black, blue, chocolate or lilac. This coloration is due to a heat-sensitive enzyme on the Himalayan’s body that creates a brown pigment melanin. This enzyme is active on the parts of the body where the Himalayan rabbit is discolored, such as their ears, nose, feet and tail.The markings change with age and environment. The colder weather may darken markings, enlarge markings, and also add markings around the eyes and genitals (vent smut). These markings are not a disqualification because it is not on the usable portion of the pelt. If the markings spread into the usable portion of the pelt, such as into the belly or on the pin bones, it is a disqualification. Warmer weather may lighten markings, shrink markings, and cause white hairs in markings (known as "frosting"). In extreme warm weather, a Himalayan may even develop light or white toenails. Chocolate and lilac Himalayans usually have bigger markings than blacks and blues, and are more likely to develop disqualifying markings, known as "smut". Himalayans may develop smut after just ten minutes of contact to cold objects. Baby Himalayans are especially sensitive to temperature. Most babies in the warmth of the nest will look the same as albino babies (because Himalayans can only produce eumelanin under a certain temperature and they cannot produce pheomelanin at all.) If a nest gets too cold or a baby falls out, they will get dark bands on their fur. This varies from looking to off-white to looking chinchilla-colored, and it causes confusion among many novice breeders. Because of their constantly changing colors, most Himalayan breeders do not look at markings as a factor when making breeding plans. A baby who was chilled in the nest box is often called "frosty," which is not to be confused with frosted pearl. Genetics Himalayans are known for having a double copy of the ch gene. They also have a black color, which is probably caused by a double copy of the a (self) gene. Then there are the variations with the B gene (chocolate) and the D gene (dilute). A Himalayan with bb will show up as chocolate, a Himalayan with dd will show up as blue and a Himalayan with both bb and dd will show up as lilac. The Himalayan gene (ch) has been bred into many other breeds, they lack marking modifiers so they often show up with smaller, lighter markings. Things to Avoid: Rabbits with short, close coupled type, or an arch or taper in the top or side lines. Heavy hips, large bone, or large rabbits. Fat rabbits or animals with pot bellies are faulted. A dewlap is a disqualification. Full, bulldog type head, or pinched muzzle. Thick ears, ears shaped like spoons, or ears that are spread apart. Unmatched toenails are a disqualification. Fur that is long, harsh, uneven, or hutch stained is a fault. Eye stains are a minor fault. Smut (dark color) is a disqualification on any useable part of the pelt, and white spots in any marking is a disqualification. Markings that have stray white hairs, are not clean cut, are frosty, brassy, or are unequal. Himalayans commonly have an extra set of teats. Diet Like other rabbits, the Himalayan will benefit from a diet that consists of high-quality hay and Pellets and the rest of a healthy mix of fruits, vegetables, leafy greens and pellets. There are plenty types of pellets and hay available on the market, some with higher protein content than the other depending on your budget. Be aware of what kid of fruits, leafy greens and vegetables you have in your home as some are rabbit-safe and others are not. In fact, most leafy greens are unsafe as they can cause digestive issues, especially if you feed your rabbit a large amount of it. Feed your rabbit greens that are high in fiber and nutrients, such as romaine lettuce, and be aware of what kind of fruits you’re feeding (nothing that is too high in sugar). Health The Himalayan rabbit is not susceptible to any particular health issues like Wool block. They do require regular checking in a few places such as their ears (for mites), their coat and backsides (for flystrike) and their teeth (for overgrown teeth). Overgrown teeth can protrude into your rabbit’s face and jaw and be painful. Symptoms include a loss of appetite, droppings and overall less movement from your rabbit. When a rabbit’s coat is soiled with feces, urine or other unpleasantness, flies may like to call your rabbit’s bottom their home. They can lay their eggs and once the eggs have hatched, they will eat your rabbit’s flesh while they are alive in order to get the nutrients to grow. This is painful for your rabbit and can cause death. If you believe your rabbit may have contracted fly-strike, take them to your local veterinarian immediately for treatment. Temperament/behavior Himalayans are a unique breed. There is no other breed as gentle and easy to handle. Their gentle, loving nature puts them in a class unto itself. Their small size and weight allows for smaller cage space and lower feed bills than many other breeds of rabbit. These rabbits are remarkably docile and loving, making them a wonderful choice for 4-H projects or a child’s pet. The Himalayan rabbit is gentle and patient, making them the perfect pet for families with young children or seniors. Himalayans are known for their easy-going and docile temperament. This coupled with their small size makes them an excellent choice for children wanting to start raising and showing rabbits. This rabbit’s small size makes it ideal for smaller hands to carefully pick up. In fact, this breed of rabbit is not known to scratch or bite humans, making them the perfect pet for families with young children or seniors looking for a furry companion to add some color to their life. They are generally calm-natured animals who don’t mind being picked up, petted and handled and unlike other high-energy rabbits, Himalayans are not particularly active. Having said that, they do require plenty of time out of their enclosures not only to socialize and bond with their human family but also to stretch their legs and catch some sunshine. Rabbits are not impossible to litter train, however they are significantly more challenging than training, let’s say, a dog or a cat. They have the tendency to “go” anywhere they please. To remedy this requires plenty of patience…and lots of litter boxes. Place a few litter boxes around your home where you find your Himalayan tends to do the deed and with lots of hard work (and rewards!), you should be well on your way to litter-training your little rabbit. Make sure their enclosure is large enough so they can comfortably stretch out of their full size and although Himalayans are relatively small, they are long so make sure you purchase the correct enclosure size. uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use. Himalayans are popular both as show rabbits and as pets. They have fine bone and a skinny body, and, unlike many other breeds, were never raised primarily for meat. This breed's main purpose is for showing, but in its past, it was raised for its white pelt. Club The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership. Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Today all four varieties are recognized in both the UK and the USA. The Black variety, however remain a popular variety. Himalayans are easy to find in most areas and breeders are easily found online Have I Missed Anything about the Himalayan? If you know something about the breed standard, history or status of the Himalayan rabbit, please let me know. Do you have a story about the Himalayan Breed? What do you love about them? Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make this breed happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of the Himalayan rabbit. Let me know, and maybe we can set up an interview? http://www.himalayanrabbit.com/breed_history.htm http://himalayanrabbit.com/ http://www.raising-rabbits.com/himalayan-rabbit.html http://rabbitbreeders.us/himalayan-rabbits http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/himalayan-rabbit-breed-information/ http://animal-world.com/encyclo/critters/rabbits/HimalayanRabbit.php http://ahra2001.tripod.com/history.html http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/himalayan-rabbit/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himalayan_rabbit If you would like to support the podcast, you can support through Patreon for one dollar a month. Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Plant of the Week:  Carrot Word of the Week:  Catnip A Rabbit Story http://www.sacred-texts.com/asia/tft/tft38.htm The voice of the wolf is a sign to the sheep. Tibetan Proverb. ONCE upon a time there were two neighbor families, one family composed of an old mother bear and her son and the other of an old mother rabbit and her son. The children kept the house while the two mothers went out to dig roots. The rabbit's claws were sharp and quick and she got the most. This made the old bear mad so she killed the rabbit and took the dead body and roots home, although she couldn't dig very many, as her claws were dull. The little rabbit waited and waited and could not understand why his mother didn't come home. Finally he slipped over to the old bear's house to see what he could discover. He peeped in and saw that the old bear was cooking his mother, and she and her son sat down and ate her all up. He felt dreadfully bad and began to think of revenge, and said to himself: "Some day I will get even with them." One day the old mother bear went out to carry water, and while she was gone the little rabbit heated an arrow red hot and shot the little bear in the ear and killed him. Then he took his mother's sack which the old bear had stolen with the roots in it and carried it away with him. As he went up the mountain he met a tiger and said to him, "There is a bear coming after me, Mr. Tiger, won't you save me and find a place for me to hide?" "All right, you crawl in my ear and that bear will never find you." The old mother bear returned, bringing her kang of water, and found her son dead. She said, "The young rabbit has done this. I shall follow him and kill him." So, going after the rabbit, she came upon the tiger and asked, "Have you seen a fellow with gray fur and long ears any-where? If you don't tell me the truth I will kill you." The tiger answered, "Don't talk to me that way, for I could kill you without very much trouble." And the old bear went on. The rabbit sat there in the tiger's ear eating some of the roots he had in his sack and the tiger could hear him munching away, and asked: "What are you eating?" "My own eye-ball," he answered. The tiger said, "Give me one, they seem very good." The rabbit handed him a root, the tiger ate and said, "That's very good. Let's take my eye-balls out and eat them, and if I am blind, since I saved you from this bear, you will take care of me and lead me around, will you not?" The rabbit said, "I will do that all right." So he dug out the tiger's two eye-balls and handed him some roots to eat in place of them. Then he went on leading the tiger, who now was blind, right up to the side of a big steep cliff, where he told him to lie down and go to sleep. Then he built a big fire on the other side of the tiger, who got so hot that when he moved away he fell over the cliff and killed himself. The rabbit now went to a shepherd and told him, "There is a dead tiger up there, you can go and cut him up." Then he went to the wolf and said, "The shepherd is gone and you can go kill some sheep." Then he went to the raven and said, "You can go and pick the little wolves' eyes out, as their mother is gone to kill a sheep." Now the rabbit had done so much harm he thought he had better run away. He went into a far country and I expect he still dwells there. News Campaign aims to put Hungarian rabbit, popular abroad, on local plates https://bbj.hu/economy/campaign-aims-to-put-hungarian-rabbit-popular-abroad-on-local-plates-_134133 Hungaryʼs government and rabbit farming professionals launched a national campaign to boost consumption of rabbit meat on Friday, Hungarian news agency MTI reported. István Nagy, state secretary at the Agriculture Ministry, said that while Hungary is Europeʼs biggest exporter of rabbit meat, it is on the bottom rung when it comes to domestic consumption of the healthy meat, which is low in cholesterol and fat, as well as being easy to prepare. Hungarians consume just 200-300 grams of rabbit meat per capita each year, while residents of Mediterranean countries eat more than 2 kg, he added. Róbert Juráskó, who heads the Rabbit Product Council, said healthy, easy to digest rabbit meat should be on Hungarian familiesʼ tables at least once a week. St. Louis Families Would Be Permitted 8 Chickens, Rabbits Under New Proposal http://www.riverfronttimes.com/newsblog/2017/06/12/st-louis-families-would-be-permitted-8-chickens-rabbits-under-new-proposal A bill introduced at the Board of Aldermen last week would allow St. Louis families to keep up to eight chickens or rabbits on a normal-sized city lot — a sizable increase to what's currently permitted. Under existing city ordinances, St. Louis residents are allowed no more than four pets total, and chickens and rabbits have no special classification. If you have three dogs and one chicken, for example, you've reached the cap. But the new bill, sponsored by Alderwoman Cara Spencer and Christine Ingrassia, carves out a framework for small farm animals, namely chickens and rabbits, that is separate from pets. It would also allow one Vietnamese potbelly pig per household, although other large farm animals and roosters both remain expressly prohibited. The new regulations are part of a broader effort to encourage urban farming within St. Louis. The alderwomen worked with the Missouri Coalition for the Environment, seeking to bring the city's ordinances that affect urban agriculture in line with best practices in other cities. The coalition's survey, which involved more than 850 people, found broad support for such reforms locally. An additional proposal from Ingrassia and Spencer would allow St. Louis residents to sell eggs, honey and produce from the property where they are grown, without costly business licenses. Says Ingrassia, "It's all about letting people have easier access to food, and to make the city more sustainable." Selling home-grown produce won't make anyone rich, she acknowledges. "But if you can make a few extra bucks, that's a good thing." Last year, a proposal to increase to six the number of chickens owned by city households couldn't attain passage at the Board of Aldermen. Spencer, for one, believes this year may be different. "With the new energy on the board and more progressives on it, we should be able to get this passed," she says. She urges all of those interested in the issue to contact their alderman or woman to seek their support.   Sharon J. Mixdorf (1962-2017) http://wcfcourier.com/lifestyles/announcements/obituaries/sharon-j-mixdorf/article_4729793d-e6d5-5a2d-bdc2-71b97dd76abb.html DENVER -- Sharon Jane Mixdorf, 55, of Denver, died at home Saturday, June 10, from complications of breast cancer. She was born June 6, 1962, in Marshfield, Wis., daughter of Stanley and Joan Welch Fait. On May 30, 1992, she married Eric Mixdorf in Marshfield. She graduated from Marshfield Columbus High School in 1980. Sharon lived in Marshfield, Waterloo and Denver and worked as a pet and dog groomer for 22 years, most recently at Brookside Veterinary Hospital in Cedar Falls. She was a member of the Bremer County Genealogical Society, Pet Pals, Iowa State Dutch Rabbit Club, Iowa State Rabbit Breeders Association, Collie Club of America, American English Spot Rabbit Club and was a life member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association and the American Dutch Rabbit Club. Sharon also was the director of the Upper Midwest Dutch Rabbit Club, the secretary of the Waterloo Area Rabbit Breeders Association, and was the Rabbit Show secretary at the National Cattle Congress Fair. Survived by: her husband; her mother of Marshfield; five sisters, Nancy (Leon) LeClair of Two Rivers, Wis., Linda (Dan) Neve of Marshfield, Mary Lou (Rich) Volk of Arpin, Wis., Patty (Jim) Shaw of Marshfield and Kathy (Tony) Kuhlka of Hewitt, Wis.; a brother, Michael (Gayle) Fait of Marshfield; two sisters-in-law, Pat Bitel and Brenda (Patrick) Wellner; four brothers-in-law, Darrell Gates of Pittsville, Wis., Richard (Kathy) Mixdorf, David (Rhonda) Mixdorf and Brian (Esther) Mixdorf; and numerous nieces and nephews. Preceded in death by: her father; and her twin sister, Karen Gates. Services: 2 p.m. Friday, June 16, at Trinity Lutheran Church, Waterloo, with burial in Garden of Memories. Visitation will be from 4 to 7 p.m. Thursday, June 15, at Parrott & Wood Chapel of Memories, Waterloo. Memorials: may be directed to the family. Condolences may be left at www.overtonservice.com. Sharon enjoyed reading, camping, swimming, canoeing, rabbit shows and exotic animal swaps.   New Species of Cottontail Rabbit Identified: Sylvilagus parentum http://www.sci-news.com/biology/sylvilagus-parentum-suriname-lowland-forest-cottontail-04951.html new species of cottontail rabbit (genus Sylvilagus) has been described from the lowlands of western Suriname by Portland State University Professor Luis Ruedas. The Suriname lowland forest cottontail (Sylvilagus parentum). Image credit: UOL / IUCN. The Suriname lowland forest cottontail (Sylvilagus parentum). Image credit: UOL / IUCN. Prof. Ruedas made the discovery after studying rabbit specimens at the Naturalis Biodiversity Center in Leiden, the Netherlands. The specimens were collected in the 1980s by Dutch scientists during the fieldwork in Suriname. The researcher studied the anatomy of the specimens and determined they were larger and shaped differently than other rabbits throughout South America. He named the newfound species the Suriname lowland forest cottontail. The scientific name of the species, Sylvilagus parentum, honors Prof. Ruedas’ parents, Patricio Ruedas Younger and Paloma Martín Daza. “The rabbit discovery in South America could affect how animal species are identified as unique, which is an important step when determining if a species is endangered,” Prof. Ruedas said. “It could also lead to conservation efforts in Suriname, where environmental degradation is threatening the rabbit’s habitat.” Sylvilagus parentum is relatively large for a South American cottontail. The species measures 15.3 inches (39 cm) in head and body length and 10 inches (2.5 cm) in tail length. The length of the ears is about 2.4 inches (6 cm). The average mass is around 3.3 pounds (1.5 kg). The new species is described in a paper recently published in the online edition of the Journal of Mammalogy. _____ Luis A. Ruedas. A new species of cottontail rabbit (Lagomorpha: Leporidae: Sylvilagus) from Suriname, with comments on the taxonomy of allied taxa from northern South America. Journal of Mammalogy, published online May 17, 2017; doi: 10.1093/jmammal/gyx048   A new species of cottontail rabbit (Lagomorpha: Leporidae: Sylvilagus) from Suriname, with comments on the taxonomy of allied taxa from northern South America https://academic.oup.com/jmammal/article-abstract/doi/10.1093/jmammal/gyx048/3828752/A-new-species-of-cottontail-rabbit-Lagomorpha?redirectedFrom=fulltext Abstract Of the 19 currently recognized species of Sylvilagus Gray, 1867, 15 inhabit North America, and only 5 are recognized in South America: S. brasiliensis Linnaeus, 1758 (throughout most of the continent); S. varynaensis Durant and Guevara, 2001, restricted to the southern lowlands of Venezuela (states of Barinas, Portuguesa, and Guarico); S. andinus (Thomas, 1897) from the Andean páramos of Ecuador and potentially in a sporadic manner to the Colombian and Venezuelan páramos; and S. tapetillus Thomas, 1913, from the coastal plain in the region of Rio de Janeiro. In addition to these, putative subspecies of S. floridanus, primarily a North American taxon, nominally are recognized from the grassland plains areas of northwestern South America east of the Andes. While S. varynaensis and S. tapetillus are monotypic, S. brasiliensis contains at least 37 named taxa in synonymy, distributed in various habitats; S. andinus requires further study. As a result of the recent description of a neotype for S. brasiliensis, it is now possible to assess species limits and begin the process of illuminating formerly obscured biological diversity in South American cottontails. Here, I describe a new species of Sylvilagus from the lowlands of western Suriname, and excise S. sanctaemartaeHershkovitz, 1950 from synonymy with S. brasiliensis.

This week we are going to explore the Havana Rabbit breed. If you would like to support the podcast, you can support through Patreon for one dollar a month. Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Thank you for listening. If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. When I hear the name Havana rabbit I picture a rabbit that came from Cuba, but as we have discovered several times the breed is named for a place that it does not originate from. The Havana rabbit originates in Holland, not the Caribbean as you might expect. They get their name from the fact that the chocolate variety closely resembles the color of the deep brown Havana cigars, not because the breed hails from Cuba. When you think Havanas, think cigars, not Cuba. The rich dark brown coloration of the original Havanas was reminiscent of Havana cigars to the early breeders, hence the name was applied to the newly developed breed.  The Havana Rabbit had its beginnings in a small Dutch village near Utrecht, Holland (not Cuba), in 1898, by total accident. History Havana Journey: A rabbit farmer named Mr. Honders tossed a newly acquired common farm rabbit into the stable with his other communal rabbits. The black and white doe was bred by who knows which of the bucks in the farmer’s warren, and soon gave birth to a litter of brown and white rabbits with modified Dutch markings. The Havana’s journey began with breeders’ vision, work, and dedication since it first arrived on the rabbit scene in 1898. The rabbit breed known as ‘The Mink of the Rabbit Family’ includes an evolution defining its type today into the lovely compact breed known for its intense color and luxurious fur. I thought this would be an appropriate time to trace the Havana evolution to its breed standard today. Because of their unusual chocolate color, the farmer retained these offspring for further breeding. Being chocolate, their eyes had the typical ruby glow in them when viewed in bright light. It was anything but usual to Mr. Honders. He named these new rabbits “Fire-Eyes of Ingen” (Ingensche Vuuroog). The rabbits were a dark reddish brown, and weighed around 7.5 pounds. For a brief historical overview, the Chocolate variety of the Havana was the first, and appeared in a litter of a Dutch marked doe in Ingen, Holland in 1898. These new rabbits were first given the name of Ingensche Veuoraoz, “Fire-eye from Ingen,” because of the unusual ruby glow to the eyes when viewed in good light. The breed soon became known as “Havana” after the rich chocolate color of Havana cigars. Havanas were soon being bred in France, Switzerland, and Germany and Chocolate Havana of widely different types were displayed at various shows in Europe. In the first decade of 1900, the new chocolate rabbits quickly made their way through Europe via Switzerland and Germany. They varied wildly in type, size, and quality. Little by little, Havanas began to look like Havanas, as breeders used out-crosses to correct faults and enhance fur quality. They showed up in the UK in 1908. England’s National Havana Club formed in 1920. The breed also made its way to the USA in 1916. The Havana breed made its way to the United States and was accepted into the ARBA in 1916 as the ‘Standard Havana’. Havana quickly became popular due to their eye appeal and their mink-like fur quality and texture, which placed Havana pelts in great demand. The Havana Rabbit Breeders Association was established in 1925. The Havana Club in the US was formed in 1920. At the time, the rabbit was still 7+ pounds, and reportedly difficult to breed. Over the next 30 years, Havanas took two shapes - large and small. The heavyweight variety never caught on, but the medium-sized Havana we know today was well-received. Lee Own Stamm originated the Blues in 1965 and the Blacks in 1980. The Havana of today evolved from a much different type. Havana breed is based on intense color and mink-like fur, and the emphasis of those features becoming more intense over the years. The compact body type, however, has evolved over the decades to the standard we depict today. 1914 In the 1914 ‘Rabbit Culture and Standard,’ The Complete and Official Standard of all the Rabbits (1), “Havanas were one of the latest varieties listed… The correct color listing was described as dark brown to dark chestnut brown and blood red brown changing with the varying light.” The development of two distinctly different sizes of Havana were being exhibited, with one a smaller, neat, short-coated variety and “… larger ones often exhibit a dewlap and are somewhat coarse and awkward looking.” The 1914 standard reflects the importance of color with 30 points and type with 30 points; however fur was only allotted 10 points and was to be short, fine and silky. 1920’s In the 1926-27 and 1928-29 editions of The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association Guidebook and Standard, the Havanas were listed as “one of the most beautiful fur breeds and a very useful rabbit for their skins require no dying but can be used in the natural state as the rich chocolate color is very attractive...” Havana Rabbit Club Standard continues to emphasis color with 30 points, and the coat was to be short, fine and silky and cut severely for white hairs. Type was still being determined as the breed tried to meet the demand for beautiful pelts. Senior weights were 4 ½ to 7 pounds exhibiting quite a range. 1930’s The 1930’s appeared to be a period when the Havana was being defined as to type. The Standard Havana description began to change to make room for a new variety. There were now 2 varieties, chocolate in color, known as the Standard and the Heavyweights. The Heavyweights were later called the American Havana, with an ideal weight of 9 pounds. The emphasis was for a larger fur pelt which was in high demand at the time; however they lost much of the body type and quality of fur and the Heavyweights were dropped from the standard by the 1940’s. Meanwhile, in 1930, Mr. Walter Huey discovered a new mutation of Havana with an entirely new coat mutation. Initially, these ‘Havanas’ were known as Satin Havana and shown in competition against the Standard Havana; however there was a storm of protest. From this protest came the acknowledgment that the coats were an entirely new coat mutation and we had the start of the Satin breed with the White Satin. Satin Havana Mutation In 1934, the Satin mutation occurred in Indiana. For a short time, they were recognized as a variety of Havanas, however they were unfair competition since the satin shine was so striking. By 1946, breeders of satinized rabbits organized a national club for a dedicated Satin Rabbit breed. 1940’s - 1980’s The Standard Havana continues to be recognized for its coat which is often called near mink. The most recent variety is broken, achieving acceptance in 2008 thanks to the efforts of Brad and Katie Boyce. Brad and Katie Boyce presented the Broken, which was accepted in 2008. Julie Spier presented the Lilac, which was accepted in 2016, providing the breed with the five varieties accepted in the standard and shown today. The flatter body type of the time is reflected in the standard description: “The body shall be cobby type, rather flat and compact, with full, meaty shoulders, tapering slightly to broader and higher haunches. Avoid snaky and too-rounded type, high, rounded hips, or hips cut in under. The head should have a short neck, having full appearance of head being joined directly to shoulders.” The emphasis is on the bold eye reflecting the origin of the breed and on meaty shoulders and broader hindquarters. The breed is ancestral to several others, including the Fee de Marbourg, Perlefee and Gris Perle de Hal. TODAY The Havana of today embraces the compact body type in its definition. General type of the competitive Havana is rather short and compact, tapering slightly from hindquarters to shoulders. Top body line should be a continuous curve from the ear base with a high point over the center of the hips and falling in a smooth curve to the base of the tail. Judging continues to emphasize the breed’s best characteristics: color and fur with 45 points, and a compact type with lots of depth balancing width for 45 points. Eye appeal of an animal that is full, smooth, and well rounded, displaying intense color with lots of luster and mink-like texture of fur is the standard to strive for. Body Havanas are small-medium sized rabbits with short, deep bodies and deep, rich color. Their lustrous fur gives them the nickname “the mink of the rabbit family.” Although they don’t often catch the fancy of pet owners, their beautiful type is a joy to the practiced eye of judges and breeders. The Havana rabbit is a compact breed that should not exceed 6.5 lbs. They have short, rounded bodies. The top line should form a half-circle that rises over the hips before or down to the tail. They have short, straight legs with dark-colored toenails, short ears which are relatively close together, medium-sized eyes and a short head with full cheeks. Approximate Size: 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 pounds Havanas are recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association in four color types: chocolate, blue, black, lilac, broken and which is best described as a mix of colors that looks like a Dalmatian. Their average weight is between 4.5 pounds (2.0 kg) and 6.5 pounds (2.9 kg). Coat This breed of rabbit has short, soft, fly-back fur that does not much need maintenance to keep in tip-top condition. To keep their shedding to a minimum, indoor rabbits can be groomed once a week with a slick brush and when shedding time comes around (around Spring), increasing their brushing to twice a week. In any show breed, there’s the ideal type – that wonderful, deep, smooth, sleek body – and then there’s what representatives of the breed really look like. No matter what the standard says, how close does that breed come to meeting it, on average? In some breeds, the real and the ideal are rather a long ways from each other. But there are a few breeds that have been developed to the point where the average show breed is a fine representation of the standard, and the best ones are nearly perfect. One of those breeds is the Havana. It’s no wonder that Havanas are often honored with the Best in Show award at local, state, and even national levels. There’s nothing particularly flashy about this breed, such as might grab a pet owner’s attention, but to the trained eye of a judge, a top notch Havana is simply breathtaking. The body type is incredibly short and deep, approaching a “half basketball” shape when viewed from the side. When viewed from the top, the hindquarters evenly taper to the shoulders. Ideally there should be no flat or narrow spots in the body type, no squared hips, no pinched hindquarters. The head and ears are of medium length and balance with the body. Although type is important, the coat and color are to be given strong consideration as well. Havanas have fly-backs – fur that returns very quickly to its usual position when the rabbit is stroked from tail to head. Havanas do not have a Satin sheen, but their fur does carry an unusually high luster. There are currently four recognized colors: black, blue, chocolate, and broken. The solid colors are all of a dark, rich shade. Havanas have short, fly-back coats which need minimal grooming. A quick brushing once a week should be enough to keep your rabbit looking his best. You can also go over their coat with slightly damp hands to remove static. Havanas may need more frequent grooming when they are molting. Things to Avoid: A long, narrow, or flat body. Flatness over the shoulders. Narrowness over the loin. Hips that are pinched or undercut. Roughness over the spine or hips. Long head or long neck. Unmatched toenails are a disqualification. Color that looks faded, light, rusty, mealy, or has scattered white hairs. Care Requirements: Like any other breed of rabbit, Havana bunnies require a diet consisting of pellets. The rest of their diet is made up a healthy balance of hay, leafy greens, fruits and vegetables. Be aware of what kind of leafy greens you feed your rabbit, as some of them (like iceberg lettuce) contain no great amount of vitamins or nutrients and contain laudanum, which can be harmful in large quantities. Also be careful of what kind of vegetables you decide to feed your rabbit, as some of things are harmful, and some fruits contain too much sugar. Havana rabbits do well whether they are indoors or outdoors, provided they are given plenty of room in their enclosures to stretch their legs and catch some much-needed sunshine. Outdoor enclosures should be made of wood or wire and need to be raised off the ground in order to provide protection from wildlife. Indoor rabbit enclosures should be made of wire and have bedding that should be spot-cleaned every day for cleanliness and completely changed out at the end of every week. Health The Havana rabbit is not known to be susceptible to any particular health issues, but like any other rabbit, measures must be taken in order to raise a healthy, happy rabbit. Remember to check their mouths once every week or two for ingrown teeth, which can grow into their jaw and faces and cause a lot of pain. The best way to prevent overgrown teeth is to have a proper diet with hay, as the hay will naturally file down their teeth. Should you rabbit live outdoors, be aware that they will be more susceptible to fly-strike. Fly-strike is an extremely painful condition in which flies lay their eggs in a rabbit’s fur near dirty areas. When the eggs hatch, they begin sustaining themselves by way of eating your rabbit from the inside out. In order to avoid fly-strike, always check your rabbit for dirt or feces stuck on their coat. Always make sure your rabbit’s enclosure and coat is clean and that your rabbit’s eating habits remain constant. Should you decide to spay or neuter your rabbit, some owners notice that their rabbit tends to be less aggressive. However the Havana rabbit is not known to be hostile, so neutering them may do nothing to their personality. Does can be spayed once they are 4-6 months old while bucks can be neutered as young as 3 and a half months old. Temperament/behavior The Havana Rabbit is known for having a relaxed, friendly personality. However there are also examples that have been known to have a bit of an attitude so it’s well worth researching the lines you’re thinking of purchasing from to make sure that all of his relatives have been even tempered. As long as he’s been allowed to get used to humans and other pets from an early age your Havana rabbit should be calm and able to cope with human interaction without getting stressed. It’s vital that anyone who’s going to be charged with looking after the rabbit knows exactly how to handle it as they can struggle if they feel vulnerable or uncomfortable when picked up. Despite his small size, he will be very strong and can kick and scratch, potentially injuring himself or his handler. Most rabbits are active in the morning and the evening and he will be grateful for boxes, tubes and toys to play with. Rabbits are sweet creatures who easily bond with their human family so long as they are given time and space to properly socialize on their own terms. While not the most energetic rabbit breed by any means, these medium-sized rabbits are perfectly capable of running around indoors or out and letting out a little mid-air hop. Should you decide to engage in some one-on-one playtime, you may find that your particular rabbit enjoys some ear or head scratches and some gentle back petting. Because of its medium size, the Havana rabbit makes a great pet for families with children of any age. Because it isn’t too high energy, it makes an attractive pet for seniors looking for a fuzzy companion in their lives. Some rabbits need to be entertained with many toys (whether it is a store-bought one or something as simple as a toilet paper roll is entirely up to you), others don’t need much to keep them happy. It all depends on your particular rabbit’s personality. When it comes to potty-training your rabbit, you may find it is significantly more difficult than training another pet such as a cat or dog. While more challenging, it is definitely not impossible to litter-train rabbits but they do require much more patience and time than other animals. Many pet parents have found that placing several litter boxes around the house works best, as your rabbit won’t have to travel to the other side of your house to do the deed and risk not making it. If you would like more info on a House rabbit, you can check out the house rabbit episode. uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use. Havana rabbits are usually show rabbits, and are very popular as such. They come very close to their breed standard, often winning top honors at local and national shows. Often referred to as the ‘mink of the rabbit family’. Club The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership. Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy. In the USA, Havanas weigh 4.5 - 6.5 pounds. They have a compact body type, and are useful for show and pets. And additionally, their fur has a special glossiness, which makes it great should you also wish to utilize their pelts. One is not limited to Chocolate. Four additional varieties have been accepted in the US: Blue, Black, lilac and brokens. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. In the UK, Havanas are dark chocolate “with a purplish sheen.” The glossy normal fur is approximately 1 inch in length. Havanas should weigh 2.722 kg (6 pounds) with a half-pound latitude permitted either way. Have I Missed Anything about the Havana? If you know something about the breed standard, history or status of the Havana rabbit, please let me know. Do You Have a Story About The Havana? What do you love about them? Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make the Havana happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of the Havana rabbit. Let me know, and maybe we can set up an interview? http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/havana-rabbit-breed-information/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/havana-rabbits https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Havana_(rabbit) http://www.raising-rabbits.com/havana-rabbit.html http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/havana-rabbit/ https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/breeds/rabbits/havana/ http://www.havanarb.net/breed-history.html Plant of the Week: Wheat Word of the Week: Brilliant Every week I would like to bring you an item on Amazon that I personally use or has been purchased by many members of the audience, and I have researched enough to recommend. Today’s HOTR Amazon Item of the week is the This weeks item is a Headlamp:   This weeks item is a NiteCore Cree Headlamp. I use this NiteCore Cree Headlamp to check on my rabbits outside. This is Purpose-designed for hiking, climbing, camping and general outdoor recreation. It is All metal high-performance dual-beam headlamp Aluminum "unibody" construction is highly rugged and provides excellent cooling performance. It Utilizes a premium CREE XM-L2 (T6) LED Powered by a single 18650 lithium-ion battery for up to 565 lumens of output. High-efficiency circuit provides up to 400 hours of run-time. It produces an extremely wide beam. This is probably the best NiteCore Cree Headlamp I've found to-date. What I like about the NiteCore Cree Headlamp: It's bright - for most stuff, the 2 highest settings are way more than you'd want for anything that's within a few yards of you. It'll also blind anyone you're looking at. Easy to use control buttons. Built in red lamp which is useful for retaining your night vision. I think the red light level is just about right - you're really not going to see anything more than a few yards out with it, but it's meant to preserve your night vision. It would be nice if you could adjust the brightness, but that would just be a nice bonus. This has long battery life - I usually use this at the 2nd dimmest level as that's enough for most projects, and I get many many hours. I usually re-charge it once a month, and I use it several times a week or more. The only real issue is the strap isn't the greatest. I usually have to have it on a little tighter than I'd prefer for longer usage duration to keep it from falling off if I'm sideways or upside down. If you're not contorting yourself in crazy positions it probably won't be an issue. You can also put the NiteCore Cree Headlamp on over a hat. Rabbit Dance an Oneida legend retold by Desiree Barber http://www.uwosh.edu/coehs/cmagproject/ethnomath/legend/legend16.htm Long ago, two hunters went hunting deer for their village. They hunted for a very long time without seeing any signs of deer, but they didn't return to the village for they knew they had to provide food for the winter. Suddenly, they heard a very loud thump! They stopped and listened to see if there would be another thump, and sure enough, they heard it again! This time the thump was louder, "THUMP!" One hunter said to the other, "What is that?" The other hunter said, "I don't know, but IT sounds very close!" So, both hunters got on their bellies and crawled to a nearby clearing surrounded by bushes. In the center of the clearing they saw the biggest rabbit they had ever seen! The first hunter started to aim his bow and arrow at the huge rabbit, but the second hunter stopped him and said, "Let's wait to see what he is going to do." Both hunters waited and watched the huge rabbit as he lifted one of his big back legs and thumped it three times on the ground. Then, out from every direction hopped regular sized rabbits. The hunters watched very closely not wanting to miss anything. The little rabbits gathered around the big rabbit, and the big rabbit began to thump his back leg in a pattern as the little rabbits danced. The hunters watched in awe as the rabbits danced. Then the big rabbit thumped his leg in the directions in which the hunters lay. The huge rabbit looked in that direction and leaped into the sky. Then all the rabbits quickly hopped away. The hunters watched still in awe. They realized they had to go back to the village and tell the people what they had seen and heard. They ran all the way to the village and asked if they could speak to the elders. After they told their story, one of the elders said, "Show us how the beat and the dance went." The hunters showed them exactly what the rabbits did. Another elder said, "The rabbits gave this dance to tell us to show them respect and appreciation for what they give to us. We will name the dance after them, and we will dance it at our socials to show them our gratitude." So this is the way it was then and is now. That is how the rabbit dance came to be. News http://www.mauinews.com/opinion/columns/2017/06/rabbit-fever-could-be-deadly/ It is the law in Hawaii to keep rabbits contained and off the ground if they are outside. Environmental impacts not withstanding, rabbits also pose a threat to human health. Tularemia, aka “rabbit fever,” can be a serious disease for both humans and animals. Several years ago, a researcher working with sparrows at a rabbit farm on Maui fell ill. He was fev-erish and tired, then started getting sores on his skin. Doctors weren’t sure what it was and although he was never officially diagnosed, he responded to treatment for tularemia, a disease caused by a bacteria carried by rabbits, rodents and other animals. Officially, tularemia has never been documented in Hawaii. It’s difficult to culture the bacterium and handling it poses a significant infection risk to lab workers. “If not here, there is a real threat that tularemia could, at any time, be introduced into Hawaii. It affects so many animal species, and once here, mosquitoes and other blood-sucking arthropods could spread it, “says Fern Duvall, head of Maui’s Native Ecosystem Protection and Management program with the Department of Land and Natural Resources. On the Mainland, where tularemia is widely present, the disease is rare among people. They are exposed to the disease if they handle infected animals, or if bitten by ticks or another insect that fed on an infected animal. When bacteria come in contact with the skin, they cause ulcers that spread through the body, eventually reaching the lungs. If the bacteria are inhaled, the results can be deadly. Occasionally, there are serious localized outbreaks of the disease. The summers of 2000-01 saw 19 cases of tularemia on Martha’s Vineyard, Mass., and one proved fatal. The Centers for Disease Control came to investigate. An unusually high number (14 out of 19) had pneumonia (the bacteria had entered the lungs) and many involved landscapers. What the CDC suspected was that lawnmowers or other cutting tools struck the carcasses of dead, infected rabbits and the bacteria went airborne. In 2015, there were outbreaks in Colorado, Wyoming, South Dakota and Nebraska. The CDC theorized these outbreaks may have been triggered by increases in rabbit populations, which grew in response to more vegetation, caused by higher than normal rainfall. Vegetation, rainfall and landscapers are plentiful in Hawaii; what we don’t have are populations of rabbits running wild — at least not yet. According to state law, people can keep rabbits but they must be contained. If kept outside, rabbits must be in a cage off the ground. The penalties for noncompliance may reflect the seriousness of the threat: loss of your pet, fines or even jail time. Duvall says the natural predators of rabbits in Hawaii — cats, rats or mongoose — are unlikely to keep populations of wild rabbits in check. Rabbits evolved with a multitude of predators: weasels, coyotes, bobcats, owls, hawks, snakes, foxes and raccoons. To survive high mortality rates, they breed like, well, rabbits. The female (doe) can become pregnant with her first litter at 3 months of age, and again just a month later, within days of giving birth. One pair of rabbits can produce 100 kits (baby rabbits) per season, and up to 1,000 in a lifetime. “We know they can become invasive,” explains Duvall. In 1989, six illegally released rabbits quickly became 100 at Hosmer Grove in Haleakala National Park. On Laysan, a small island in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, free-roaming rabbits ate the island bare in the early 1900s, likely causing the extinction of three bird species — Laysan millerbird, Laysan apapane and Laysan rail. Beyond environmental impacts, rabbits running wild increase the risk of tularemia. “Rabbits are more often in contact with people,” explains Duvall. Whether as pets kept outdoors or released to the wild, more rabbits means more rabbit-human interactions. Other pets can be affected: dogs, cats and livestock can get tularemia from ticks or direct contact with an infected animal. Early treatment with antibiotics is critical. You can help protect Hawaii. If you have a pet rabbit, spay or neuter it. If you raise rabbits, keep them contained. If you see a rabbit running wild, report it. Call the Maui Invasive Species Committee at 573-6472. Irish R&B Trio Hare Squead’s New Video Is Just The Thing For A Rainy Summer Day http://www.thefader.com/2017/06/09/hare-squead-video-pure-premiere Ireland's imaginative rap and R&B group Hare Squead presents a new video for their soulful track “Pure." Before this release, the Dublin trio appeared on Goldlink's recent At What Cost album, crooning on the song, "Herside Story". In their latest visual, the three artists find themselves on a mental journey, on what seems to be a long day of looking for escape. They play pool and carouse through the city in a G-Class Benz, singing “I just want to leave sometimes/ You should let me breathe sometimes.” “This song represents more of a serious side," Hare Squead told The FADER over email. "We recorded it in a haunted studio in a village in Ireland where Michael Jackson used to record. We were very inspired by old antiques and eerie fields and that had a play on the whole vibe of the track. The meaning of the track is something personal, each of us has a different interpretation. Overall, we could say the meaning of the song is about how fresh love and pure intentions get twisted and messed up as we struggle and fail to understand one another. It's not a summer song. Play it on that one day it rains in the summer.” http://vevo.ly/yPXDHn Peter Sallis, voice in 'Wallace and Gromit,' dies at 96 And with him, one of the great characters in animation. http://www.metro.us/entertainment/movies/peter-sallis-wallace-and-gromit-dies Peter Sallis is one of those actors you probably know more by his voice than his face. He was one of England’s many go-to workhorse actors, appearing on stage and on screen, but usually in minor roles. (These include tiny parts in “Saturday Night and Sunday Morning,” the Timothy Dalton “Wuthering Heights” from 1970 and 2005’s “Colour Me Kubrick.”) But his most famous turn was a biggie. He was the voice of Wallace, the absentminded, cheese-loving inventor of the beloved “Wallace and Gromit” stop-motion animation series — one of the great British exports of the ’80s through the early 2010s. It’s reported that Sallis has died. He was 96 years old. Sallis’ passing leaves us bereft of one of movies’ and television’s most soothing sounds. Hearing him say, in his Northern English drawl, “Cracking good cheese, Gromit,” caused a Pavlovian chill in fans of the franchise, which spanned four award-wining shorts, a television show (2010’s “Wallace and Gromit’s World of Invention,” Sallis’ last credit) and, sadly, only one (delightful) movie: 2005’s “Wallace and Gromit: Curse of the Were-Rabbit.” Apart from supporting characters — including Ralph Fiennes and Helena Bonham Carter in “Were-Rabbit” — Sallis was often the only voice you heard on “Wallace and Gromit.” After all, Gromit was his dog, who, of course, never spoke. He didn’t need to; he had one of the most expressive faces in animation, even if it was often used for Buster Keaton-style deadpan, regular there to show his loving exasperation with his owner/flatmate. A rare kind-hearted mad scientist, he was always coming up with harebrained contraptions that got him and Gromit into trouble. In our favorite “W&G” product, the Oscar-winning short “The Wrong Trousers,” Wallace’s oversized, mechanical trousers are commandeered by a devious penguin (posing as a chicken, with a latex glove over his head, natch), who wants to rob a bank. We’re speaking of the “Wallace and Gromit” franchise in the past tense. That’s because we’re not sure if it will continue after Sallis’ passing. Aardman, the peerless stop-motion animation house that made the series (as well as “Chicken Run” and the “Shaun the Sheep” series), did retire their characters in 1996, only to repeatedly revive them, as a world without more “Wallace and Gromit” just seemed to grim to bear. And now that he’s gone, it is. Still, it would be surreal and sad to hear someone taking over for Sallis — much like the disconnect when you hear someone voice Kermit after Jim Henson’s death: The voice is similar, but something’s off. Instead, we can honor Sallis’ legacy by gorging on the “Wallace and Gromit” work we do have. Friends from England tell us it’s tradition there to spend Christmas Day watching a big movie — “Gone with the Wind,” or the original “Star Wars” trilogy” — as well as the original three “Wallace and Gromit” shorts. Might as well make that a tradition here as well. Rabbit in the Moon come to Orlando House of Blues this summer http://www.orlandoweekly.com/Blogs/archives/2017/05/30/rabbit-in-the-moon-come-to-orlando-house-of-blues-this-summer The psychedelic duo will be performing at the House of Blues on Saturday, Aug. 19. Doors open at 8 p.m. Since their reunion at Ultra Music Festival in Miami in 2016, following a six-year hiatus, singer-performer Bunny and producer David Christophere have been making more regular appearances together. https://youtu.be/nDCnWn-WrNw Tickets for the show go on sale Friday, June 2. Unicorn drinks, rabbit pizza on Stampede menu https://www.durhamregion.com/news-story/7321411-unicorn-drinks-rabbit-pizza-on-stampede-menu/ CALGARY — The annual reveal of new foods coming to the Calgary Stampede has been released, and the list includes both the sickeningly sweet and the simply weird. The Unicorn White Hot Chocolate offers white hot chocolate surrounded in rainbow sour poppers, sprinkles, sugary stars, a ribbon rainbow tail, and blanketed with a fluffy cotton candy cloud. Cereal Monster Sandwiches consist of a massive amount of ice cream crushed between two marshmallow squares, while the Cookie Dough-ne offers raw cookie dough in a waffle cone that is surrounded by cotton candy. From the fryer, there's deep-fried Jell-O, pork belly and something confusingly called Butter Chicken Bear Balls, which is described as "golden deep-fried balls smothered in a delicious butter chicken sauce ... and topped with a candy-coated anise." Canadian bacon Pickle Balls are a hot dog and pickle wrapped in bacon, fried in batter and served on a stick, while the World’s Hottest Pizza delivers its flavor punch by simply packing on the ghost peppers. If unconventional meat is your thing, try the rabbit pizza, crispy chicken feet on a stick or the Angry Chicken sandwich, smothered in both chipolte aioli and sweet and sour sauce. And no Stampede would be complete without a not-routine poutine, and this year the prize must go to the Tropical Bobster, consisting of lobster and mango salsa atop crispy fries. The Calgary Stampede runs from July 7 to 16. By The Canadian Press Photo Magic Minot Camera Club awards winners in ‘Year-End Competition http://www.minotdailynews.com/life/arts-entertainment/2017/05/photo-magic/ Along with winning first place for “Prairie Storm,” Zeltinger was voted winner of the Eileen McEown Outstanding Member Award. Submitted Photo “Have You Seen a Rabbit?” by Minot photographer Erich Linser earned first place in the monochrome division. Submitted Photo “Have You Seen a Rabbit?” by Minot photographer Erich Linser earned first place in the monochrome division. As Zeltinger captured the ferocity of a lightning storm, Kyra Hansen, of Minot, seized the magic of “Fireflies” in the artistic division. “Kyra is an up and coming photographer,” Nordstrom said. “She has an incredible eye for catching pictures and adds a unique artistic quality to them. Kyra has a bright future.” For the fourth year in a row, Hansen was awarded Outstanding Photographer of the Year. While Hansen caught the mesmerizing “Fireflies,” Erich Linser, of Minot, tested the curiosity of viewers in his first-place monochrome winner, “Have You Seen a Rabbit?” “This picture has placed in various North Dakota competitions,” Nordstrom said. “Erich has a special way of capturing the eyes of viewers.”   For Wichita artist, a bunny a day keeps the boredom away http://www.kansas.com/entertainment/ent-columns-blogs/keeper-of-the-plans/article150898277.html By Matt Riedl Wade Hampton doesn’t have a bizarre obsession with rabbits. He just likes their form, artistically – simple as that. “From an artistic standpoint, I think rabbits are the perfect subject if you’re going to draw an animal,” Hampton said. “I don’t have some weird obsession with rabbits, like I’m running around the yard chasing them.” As a creative challenge, Hampton is drawing a bunny every day for a year and posting the results on Instagram. Some of his rabbits are cute – the kind with carrots and flowers included – and some are creepy, with dark circles under their eyes and cigarettes dangling from their mouths. People have enjoyed the project on social media – whenever Hampton shares his drawings on Facebook, they typically garner upward of 150 reactions. Not bad for quick daily doodles. “For me, it’s an experiment,” Hampton said. “I know the majority of them are not very good. That’s not a big deal to me. It’s like publicly putting out a sketchbook.” Hampton is well-known in Wichita for hosting “home shows,” in which he would invite friends and strangers to his home, where the walls were covered with hundreds of doodles like these, all for sale. While Hampton said he has decided to stop doing the home shows, he wanted to keep his artistic chops sharp – hence the bunny project. “I did a bunch of shows a long time ago called Art from the Gut, where you just do a bunch of drawings and you don’t really think about it too much,” Hampton said. “The thinking is that if you don’t think about it too much, some magic can happen.” About three months into the project, Hampton said Tuesday he’s considering putting on a bunny-drawing show at a gallery later this year. Those plans are still in flux, though, so until then, your primary viewing outlet will be at www.instagram.com/drawabunnydaily. “Hand to God, when I did these, it was totally for an experiment. ... You know me: If I wasn’t doing a show, I’d probably do some kind of video where I burn them all and some guy in a rabbit costume dances around it and call it art,” Hampton said. “It’s nice for these pieces to find a home – otherwise, they just sit in a sketchbook until I die. I’d much rather have somebody say I framed this and stuck it on my wall than it sit in my drawer.”   http://www.petgazette.biz/14537-burgess-celebrates-national-pet-show-success/ Burgess celebrates National Pet Show success Burgess Pet Care has announced that this year’s National Pet Show in London has been its most successful yet. The company more than doubled its sales from last year. Burgess’ team highlighted the welfare needs of small animals and provided information about the benefits of high-quality feeding hay. Dr Suzanne Moyes MVB MRCVS, veterinary director at Burgess, held a series of presentations aimed at educating small animal owners – and those considering a new addition to the family – about the responsibilities of pet ownership and the best ways to ensure the health and happiness of small animals. As organizers of this year’s Rabbit Awareness Week (RAW), the National Pet Show provided the team with a fantastic opportunity to raise awareness around the importance of high-quality feeding hay in rabbits’ diets. Once again, the Burgess team joined forces with Julian Norton, star of Channel 5’s hit TV show The Yorkshire Vet, who was in attendance at the Burgess stand to sign copies of his new book and talk about the importance of feeding hay as part of this year’s RAW campaign. The #HoptoHay campaign is raising awareness around the fact rabbits should have between 85-90% of feeding hay and grass in their diets every day. Charlotte Varley, Event Manager at Burgess Pet Care, said: “This year’s National Pet Show in London has been our biggest yet, and we couldn’t be happier with the feedback we’ve had from visitors at the stand. Our sales were more than double of that last year – we even sold out of some product lines by the end of the first day! “The wellbeing of animals is at the heart of everything we do, and events such as the National Pet Show provide an amazing opportunity to engage with enthusiastic pet owners who share our love of animals, and help them learn more about how they can keep their animals well looked after and happy. “As we move closer to this year’s Rabbit Awareness Week, we’ll continue to work with our partners to help better the lives of more rabbits and to help more people understand one of Britain’s most misunderstood pets.” Rabbit awareness week takes place this year between June 17-25 and is supported by a variety of partners, including Agria Pet Insurance, RSPCA and RWAF     South Pasadena bans sale of dogs, cats, rabbits from pet stores http://www.sgvtribune.com/government-and-politics/20170519/south-pasadena-bans-sale-of-dogs-cats-rabbits-from-pet-stores SOUTH PASADENA >> By a unanimous vote, the City Council outlawed the sale of dogs, cats and rabbits from pet stores and other commercial establishments within the city. The ban received overwhelming support from community members and animal rights’ groups who see it as a step toward shutting down puppy mills, said Councilwoman Marina Khubesrian. “The thank you letters are still pouring in this morning,” she said on Friday. Recommended by the city’s Animal Commission, the new ordinance was first approved Wednesday night by a 5-0 vote. It must receive approval upon second reading in June and takes effect 30 days after final approval, she said. Puppy mills usually breed cats and dogs in poor conditions and sell them to pet stores and other retail outlets. But the sale of puppies, kittens and rabbits has become an interstate business facilitated by ads on Internet sites, something the retail ban will not address, the city report states. “Such an ordinance will assist in reducing the demand for animals bred in substandard facilities,” concluded the report from Arthur Miller, chief of police. Once in effect, the ordinance will mostly affect Pet’s Delight, which sells puppies, kittens and rabbits. The store, located at 725 Fair Oaks Ave., also sells rodents, reptiles, birds and fish and the sales of these animals are not banned by the ordinance. A woman answering the phone said the store would have no comment. The Urban Pet, down the street at 900 Fair Oaks, does not sell animals and therefore would not be affected by the new ordinance. Khubesrian said the city had not heard from Pet’s Delight, adding: “This will not put them out of business.” The city had not received a response from anyone opposing the change, she said. Dozens of people spoke in favor of the ordinance at City Hall Wednesday night. Khubesrian said the city received 60 to 70 emails in support. On Thursday, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals sent each council member and police Capt. Mike Neff who helped craft the ordinance vegan chocolates in the shape of rabbits as thank you gifts. “Cruel puppy, kitten and rabbit breeding mills churn out animals into a world that’s already bursting at the seams with homeless animals, said Tracy Reiman, PETA executive vice president in a statement. “PETA hopes South Pasadena’s progressive example will inspire other cities across the country to ban the sale of animals in pet stores.” Instead of buying kittens, puppies or rabbits from Internet dealers or pet stores, Khubesrian encourages residents to adopt them from the Pasadena Humane Society, whom the city has a contract, or from pet rescue organizations. The city will encourage more pet adoption events to be held at pet stores, she said. She said buying from a puppy mill often means the puppy is not healthy and can end up costing the buyer in veterinarian bills. Licensed pedigree dog and cat breeders will not be affected by the ban, she said. “Pedigree breeders don’t subject the animals to constant litters and the animals are raised in a much more humane environment,” said Khubesrian.

In this weeks episode we are going to explore the New Zealand Rabbit, which has a two interesting somewhat shaky stories of how the New Zealand Red was created, as well as why the New Zealand is the most popular Meat Commercial Breed of rabbit.  A story about the New Zealand rabbits that are in New Zealand. The plant of the week Brussel Sprouts.  The Hare of the Rabbit Amazon item of the week which is The Encyclopedia of Pet Rabbits.   The Word of the Week:  Altitude.  Our Folktale this week is How The Rabbit Stole The Otter's Coat, and finally some recent News. Today we are going to explore the New Zealand Rabbit Now two weeks ago I mentioned New Zealands in New Zealand being bred to the Flemish Giant to get a larger rabbit, so I had guessed that the New Zealand was bred in New Zealand.  Again we find a breed that is named for a place from where it did not originate.  Perhaps surprisingly, New Zealand Rabbits are the very first truly American breed of rabbits.  Their genesis seems to be tied much more to Belgian Hares than it is to rabbits from New Zealand.  The very first New Zealands were Reds.  It is also the history of New Zealand Whites, as they are nothing more than albino sports of the early New Zealand Reds. Since New Zealands are as American as sliced bread, why are they called ‘New Zealand Rabbits?’  There are two, somewhat shaky, stories of how the New Zealand Red was created... There’s a story that they came from imported wild rabbits of New Zealand.  From a booklet called 'The New Zealand Red Rabbit', written in 1918 by Mr. C. P. Gilmore, we know that some New Zealand rabbits were imported from New Zealand to San Francisco and Los Angeles.  Most people suspect, although no document proof exists, that the New Zealand Red Rabbit is a blend of the popular American rabbit and the New Zealand rabbits that were imported from New Zealand.  The article connected them to the newly developing breed of rabbits known as New Zealands.  So maybe there is some New Zealand in the mix. The second theory is that fawn Flemish Giants were crossed to Belgian Hares, and eventually the New Zealand Red appeared around 1910.  While the alleged imports may or may not have contributed to the breed that would bear their name, the establishment of the New Zealand Rabbit is now understood to be a completely American story, since the breed arose in multiple locations concurrently across the USA, with or without any New Zealand imports.  It is also commonly believed that the red coloration was the result of a cross between a Belgian Hare and a White rabbit.  The Belgian Hares had been developed before the New Zealand Red breeding program started.  Breeders had taken Belgian Hares and crossed them with Flemish Giants.  After a few years, the offspring of such crosses were called Golden Fawns, sadly now extinct, they lent their blood lines in additional crosses back to Belgian Hares to enrich the red color. Apparently, according to Mr. Bob D. Whitman in his book Domestic Rabbits and their Histories, Breeds of the World, crossing Golden Fawns, Belgian Hares, Belgian Hare sports and Flemish Giants was the next logical step in the minds of several breeders from the East to West coast of America. By 1913, breeders in both Indiana and California offered several reddish-fawn-colored, meaty rabbits, that still retained a Belgian Hare stance, on the show table.  Despite the origins at different ends of the nation, all the rabbits were very similar in appearance, although the California rabbits were more agreeable from a meat producing perspective.  Both strains of these new rabbits were America's first New Zealand Red Rabbits and were very successfully bred in California and Indiana from 1906 to 1925. Documentation and records show that while most breeders were calling their new breed of rabbits 'New Zealands', some breeders favored the title of 'California Reds', or 'American Reds', and even entered them in shows using those names. As more of these New Zealand rabbits were seen on the show table, local and national clubs started to spring up.  In 1916 a vote was taken to decide on a final name.  The final contenders were the 'New Zealand' & 'American Red'.  Obviously New Zealand won (in favor of 10 to 1) and became the official name. New Zealand Whites first showed up in the nest-box of a New Zealand Red doe in 1917.  Four albino bunnies showed up in the same litter of seven kits.  The fact that one was a buck and three were does must have looked to the breeder, Mr. William Preshaw, like a gold-embossed invitation for the development of a new variety - White New Zealands.  It is thought that this white variety came about from the cross breeding of the Flemish Giant, American White, and Angora. Two years later, in 1919, Mr. Preshaw showed his "White New Zealands" at the Stockton, California Fair.  They were met with huge interest. By 1920, Mr. Preshaw was advertising "Pure White New Zealand Rabbits" for sale. In the 1920’s rising popularity for this new breed began.  These White New Zealand rabbits bore only slight resemblance to the NZW Rabbits of the Twenty-First Century.  In 1920, NZW rabbits were stocky and white, but they tended to pose in a modified arch much like their progenitors, the Belgian hares.  This New White breed became well known and was soon imported into the UK after the Second World War in 1945. Black New Zealands first occurred around 1924.  However, today’s New Zealand Blacks were bred by Dr. Alfred DeCastro with Black New Zealand sports from California breeder, using many crosses including the Giant Chinchilla.  The variety was accepted by the ARBA in 1958.   New Zealand Broken The Broken variety has been a recent addition to the New Zealand breed and was accepted by A.R.B.A. in February 2010 by David Mangione.  Now broken blacks and broken reds can be shown and compete for Best of Breed and Best Opposite Sex of Breed. It is my understanding that Blue New Zealands are being developed through a Certificate of Development from the ARBA.  Blue New Zealand rabbit are recognized in British Rabbit Club and United Kingdom.  In Fall of 2015 the Blue New Zealand passed after first showing at the American Rabbit Breeders Association National Show in Portland, Oregon.   Many breeds were brought from England to America over the years, but this is one that crossed the Atlantic the other direction in 1916 (reds) and 1949 (whites).  Today the British Rabbit Council treats the New Zealand Red as a different breed than the white, blue, and black.   British New Zealands look quite a bit different from the American ones, retaining more of their original type.  Americans have bred them to a deeper and rounder body style.  In both countries, the breed is considered a prime commercial rabbit.   Body: A New Zealand’s body should be long enough to pack in plenty of meat, but not so long as to be out of balance with the depth of body.  Yes, balance is key.  The ears should balance in length with the head and body.  The width should balance with the depth at the shoulders, midsection, and hindquarters.  Fly-back fur should be clean and set tightly in the pelt.  A New Zealand should be very firm of flesh.  New Zealand White rabbits have large, broad, and muscular bodies. Bucks (males) weigh between 9-11 pounds, while the does (females) weigh between 10-12 pounds. In addition to their greater size, females are distinguished by the presence of a dewlap,which is a flap of fur below the chin that stores fat to be used as extra energy if needed during pregnancies and lactation. Shape: New Zealand rabbits have a commercial body type with balance and uniformity. Being a meat rabbit qualities should include:     well rounded hips     well filled loin     ribs that carry forward to combine with the shoulders to balance with the rest of the body The body of New Zealand rabbits are medium in length, with good depth and with shoulders blending smoothly into the midsection. The midsection should blend smoothly into the hindquarters. From Side: When a New Zealand is viewed from the side, the top-line should start immediately at the base of the ears and rise in a continuous curve to the high point over the center of the hips and then fall downward in a smooth curve to the base of the tail. From Top: When the New Zealand is viewed from above the sides of the rabbit should tape slightly from hindquarters toward the shoulders creating the ideal meat production animal. Ears: All varieties of New Zealands have long perforated ears that stand straight up. Unlike the thick, snowy fur on their bodies, their ears have shorter fur that allows their skin to show through.     The Red variety, in the US, is to be a brilliant reddish sorrel color, not becoming so dark that it resembles a mahogany red coloration.  The color is to be carried as deep down the hair shaft as possible and the belly color is to be similar if not the same shade of red as the top color.  White coloration on the underside of the tail or on the front or rear foot pads is permissible.  Eyes of the New Zealand Red are to be brown in color.     The Black variety is to uniform jet black coloration throughout. The under-color is to be dark slate blue with dark brown eye color.     The Broken variety, in the US, is the newest and most complex of the four New Zealand varieties.  The same emphasis is to be placed on the color of the broken pattern, as well as the marking pattern itself.  The Broken variety include any recognized color of the breed in conjunction with white.  The colored areas of the broken pattern are to match the standard for the colored variety (black or red).  The marking pattern of the broken variety is to have the following pattern: brokens are to have both ears colored, color around the eyes, and on the nose (balanced nose marking ideal), and a body pattern that may be spotted, or blanket. The preference is to have an evenly balanced pattern, whichever the marking pattern may be.  The toenails of the animal may be white, colored or any combination of the two, and eye color is to correspond with the eye color specified under the respective solid colored variety.     The White variety is to be pure white, with pink eyes, with faults for any discoloration including dirt and hutch stains. New Zealand white rabbit has a genetic deviation called albinism. Albinism is caused by a lack of melanin, which is a vital pigment that gives all creatures, including humans, their skin, hair and eye color.  The most noticeable characteristic of New Zealand White rabbits is their bright eyes, which range in shade from pale pink to bright ruby purple. Due to their eye color their coloring is often referred to as REW (red eyed white). A very rare variation of New Zealand White rabbits have blue eyes. These are known as BEW (blue eyed whites)coloring.  The snowy coat of a New Zealand white rabbit is a normal length like other rabbit breeds. Most New Zealand rabbits also have a white/pink/light brownish tint to their noses. Fur/Coat: All New Zealand rabbits have short, fly-back fur. Their fur should be clean and set tightly in the pelt.  A New Zealand should be very firm of flesh. Today, New Zealand Rabbits have been bred nearly to perfection. They give other breeds very stiff competition for the coveted Best In Show award. There is no resemblance in today’s New Zealands to the Belgian Hare breed.  The majority of New Zealands in the USA are in very close conformity to the breed standard of perfection. Judges have to get picky in order to rank the entries.   Over the years, NZW rabbits have now become the number one meat rabbit in the United States.  The NZW rabbit has now become the breed of choice when it comes to most commercial rabbit operations.  In fact, it is estimated that 90% of all commercial rabbits farms in the U.S. use the NZW. These white rabbits have become the most popular for meat production because of their large, broad, and muscular bodies; plus their fur can be dyed to other colors. New Zealands have enjoyed rising popularity since the mid 1920’s. That’s a lot of years of breeding, line-breeding and at times, in-breeding. As a result, traits like...     mothering     siring     numbers of kits per litter     milking     fryer vigor     feed to gain ratio have been carefully maximized and built in to many commercial herds. Diet The diet of a New Zealand rabbit is no different than for any other rabbit breeds.  A high quality pellet feed (protein ~ 16-18%), along with unlimited timothy hay and fresh water and exercise will maintain a healthy individual.  In production rabbits a higher protein feed (protein ~ 18-20%), and alfalfa or mixed hay in addition to unlimited fresh water may be necessary to maintain proper condition. Commercial use New Zealand White rabbits were not bred to be a domestic pet.  Instead they were bred for their excellent fur and meat.  Fryers are slaughtered at two months of age and older rabbits are sold as roasters.  Fryers gain weight rapidly, reaching 5 pounds by 8 weeks or close to it.  The rabbits with high grades of fur are used to make fur coats and fur trimmings.  The lower grades are used to make felt hats and glove linings ("Commercial Rabbit Raising").  New Zealand white rabbits are the number one meat rabbit in the United States.  Some commercial operations look for the addition of hybrid vigor by crossing their NZW’s with a second breed, or even a third, utilizing Californians, or Altex, a new breed designed to be a terminal cross within a commercial herd. (Note: Altex are not recognized by the ARBA.).  If you’re thinking of raising meat rabbits or starting a commercial rabbit herd, you may want to consider the New Zealand White. Laboratory testing Along with commercial purposes, New Zealand White rabbits are also used for laboratory purposes. Rabbits react similarly to humans to diseases and medications. This reaction allows them to be used at pharmaceutical laboratories, the U.S. Public Health building, cancer research centers, and university hospitals. New Zealand white rabbits have been used to develop tests and drugs for diseases like diabetes, diphtheria, tuberculosis, cancer, and heart disease.  The effects of skin creams, cosmetics, special diets, and food additives have also been tested on New Zealand white rabbits.   Another advantage the New Zealand White has, is it  also reacts similar as humans do to certain medications and diseases. Therefore, NZW rabbits are now used in labs for certain developments and drug testing for cancer and heart disease.  NZW rabbit serum, or blood which has been cleaned, is blood that is close to a humans blood and therefore in very high demand for cancer, diabetes and tuberculosis research.  For this reason, NZW rabbits may one day be responsible for saving a lot of human lives. There is a high global demand for this wonderful breed of rabbit.  The New Zealand White Rabbit, because of its meat, fur, blood, rapid weight gain and ability to reproduce so quickly, make it special above all other breeds for commercial production. Breeding A doe (female rabbit) becomes fertile between 8-12 weeks of age and can be safely bred at 16-17 weeks of age.  Breeding before this age can cause harm or death to the doe and/or kits. Does are fertile all year long although day length can affect that some.  The gestation period is around 28–35 days, although most will kindle (give birth) at 31-32 days.  A nest box should be provided for the new mother two to five days prior to the expected kindling date.  The doe will pull fur from her abdomen and dewlap and along with hay or other materials provided she will create a nest.  The young are born hairless, deaf, and blind. Fur begins to grow in by day 3 to 5 and after 7 to 10 days the kits' eyes will open by 2 weeks they may begin exploring and sampling outside food sources.  At the age of three to four weeks their mother will begin to wean them off milk, meanwhile the kits will switch to eating hay and pellets. The average number of bunnies per litter is seven but commonly range from one to fourteen.  Because rabbits are induced ovulators a doe can become pregnant by the simple act of mating if conditions are right. A doe can get pregnant within 24 hours after giving birth.   Over the years, some recessive disorders have arisen in New Zealands. See Autosomal Recessive Disorders to learn more. On the other hand, the same frequency of breeding can lend itself to test-breeding and eliminating the same recessive disorders that may have been uncovered. Nevertheless, if you’re thinking of raising meat rabbits or starting a commercial rabbit herd, you may wish to ask questions about any recessive disorders in the rabbits you’re considering for purchase. Other than ensuring genetically excellent foundation stock, you can hardly go wrong in choosing New Zealand Rabbits as a meat rabbit or as a show breed Showing: True, this rabbit is used in meat production more than any other single breed worldwide.  But like the Californian, this breed also makes a very attractive show animal.  A tip-top New Zealand has no trouble hopping away with Best in Show; one even took home the trophy at the 2011 ARBA Convention, one of the largest rabbit shows in history.  White is the most valuable variety for commercial purposes, and therefore is the most highly developed, most commonly seen, and most competitive color.   Showroom variety colors are:     White     Black     Broken (US)     Red (US) (Separate in UK)     Blue (UK) Lifespan The average lifespan of a New Zealand rabbit is between 5 to 8 years. However this can vary depending on conditions such as diet, health care and housing. Personality New Zealand Rabbits are usually good with children and other pets, very relaxed about being handled and rarely aggressive. They are a wonderful rabbit and make a great beginner bunny as they are calm, easy-going and friendly. They are also known for their social and outgoing behavior and enjoy being part of the family. They like everybody including other household pets, and most importantly, they are not biters. One of their most lovable features is that they usually love to be handled. Pick them up, set them down, or hold them in your lap. They are often likened to 'Rag Dolls' because they flop down like a rag doll where ever you plonk them, even across your shoulder! New Zealand rabbits are comfortable both indoors and outdoors but I think because of their wonderful personalities they would make excellent indoor pets and companion rabbits. They do like to nibble though so make sure your bunny proof cables, wires and your favorite shoes! Also make sure they have plenty of time to run around outside and they have access to fresh water, hay, grass and hiding places. Breed Status All New Zealand Rabbits are safe and not endangered. They are not on any 'at risk' registers anywhere around the world. Their development and breeding continues with vigor and popularity. uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use. The New Zealand rabbit is referred to as an “All-Purpose Rabbit” because it fulfills all four of these purposes.  It is a Multi-purpose rabbit, and It is a fine breed for either meat production or for showing, and they should also make for a great pet!  Even though this is a large breed of rabbit, they are gentle and easily handled.  This makes them good for pets or show rabbits as well as meat production. Club The New Zealand is recognized by the BRC (British Rabbit Council), and the ARBA, (American Rabbit Breeders Association). These rabbits have a breed slogan known as "The Breed in the Lead". Note: The BRC recognizes the New Zealand White, Black & Blue together, while the British New Zealand Red is classed as a different rabbit and is recognized by a separate breed standard. The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership.  Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy.  With over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, its members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial rabbit raiser with several hundred animals.  Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry, whether it be for fancy, as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by the organization. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Originally founded as The Beveren Club in 1918, its name first changed to British Fur Rabbit Society and finally to The British Rabbit Society. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Owners of house rabbits are also encouraged to join the organization to learn how to care optimally for their pets. http://www.raising-rabbits.com/new-zealand-rabbits.html http://www.crossroadsrabbitry.com/new-zealand-white-rabbit-history/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/new-zealand-rabbits http://www.justrabbits.com/new-zealand-rabbits.html The bunny rabbit may be an adorable symbol of Easter for many around the world, but in areas of New Zealand the rabbit is public enemy number one. This Good Friday, hunters killed over 10,000 rabbits in New Zealand’s South Island in the 25th year of what has become known as The Great Easter Bunny Hunt. Rabbits are not native to New Zealand or Australia, having been introduced by European settlers in the 1830s. With few predators and an endless landscape of fertile vegetation, the population exploded on the island nations. The damage to the natural ecosystem has at times been catastrophic, with millions of dollars spent annually to control the “pests” and booms of the invasive species regularly referred to as “plagues”. The 328 hunters who participated in the 24-hour cull in Central Otago were divided into teams with names like Happy Hoppers, Hopper Stoppers and The Anti-pestos. The winning team, called Down South, finished on top for the second straight year bagging 899 rabbits. The kill total was up 8,439 from last year but was still a far ways off from the record year of around 30,000. Some 287,679 rabbits have been killed during the course of the event’s history. http://globalnews.ca/news/2602059/over-10000-rabbits-killed-in-new-zealands-great-easter-bunny-hunt/ Have I Missed Anything? If you know something about the breed standard, history or status of this rabbit, please let me know.   Do You Have a Story About This Particular Breed?  What do you love about them? Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make this breed happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of this type of rabbit. Let us know, and maybe we can set up an interview? Plant of the Week: Brussel Sprouts.     Encyclopedia of Pet Rabbits: Now this week our HOTR Amazon item of the week is the Encyclopedia of Pet Rabbits: This book is the book that I have been referencing for the plant of the week.  This book is filled with a wide variety of colored photos of the different types of rabbits.  It also provides a good description of rabbit care and housing.  In addition, there are medical tips and photos illustrating the results of poor care.  This is a useful guide for the young or old rabbit owner who may wish to explore other breeds.  It has Excellent photos, and is a compact book. Word of the Week:  Altitude. How The Rabbit Stole The Otter's Coat http://www.ilhawaii.net/~stony/1197lore.html     The animals were of different sizes and wore coats of various colors and patterns. Some wore long fur and others wore short. Some had rings on their tails, and some had no tails at all. Some had coats of brown, others of black or yellow. They were always disputing about their good looks, so at last they agreed to hold a council to decide who had the finest coat.     They had heard a great deal about the Otter, who lived so far up the creek that he seldom came down to visit the other animals. It was said that he had the finest coat of all, but no one knew just what it was like, because it was a long time since anyone had seen him. They did not even know exactly where he lived, only the general direction, but they knew he would come to the council when the word got out.     Now the Rabbit wanted the verdict for himself, so when it began to look as if it might go to the Otter he studied up a plan to cheat him out of it. He asked a few sly questions until he learned what trail the Otter would take to get to the council place. Then, without saying anything, he went on ahead and after four days' travel he met the Otter and knew him at once by his beautiful coat of soft dark brown fur. The Otter was glad to see him and asked him where he was going. "Oh," said the Rabbit, "the animals sent me to bring you to the council, because you live so far away they were afraid you might not know the road." The Otter thanked him, and they were on together.     They traveled all day toward the council ground, and at night the Rabbit selected the camping place, because the Otter was a stranger in that part of the country, and cut down bushes for beds and fixed everything in good shape. The next morning they started on again. In the afternoon the Rabbit began to pick up wood and bark as they went along and to load it on his back. When the Otter asked what this was for the Rabbit said it was that they might be warm and comfortable at night. After a while, when it was near sunset, they stopped and made their camp.     When supper was over the Rabbit got a stick and shaved it down to a paddle. The Otter wondered and asked again what that was for. "I have good dreams when I sleep with a paddle under my head," said the Rabbit.     When the paddle was finished the Rabbit began to cut away the bushes so as to make a clean trail down to the river. The Otter wondered more and more and wanted to know what this meant.     Said the Rabbit, "This place is called Di'tatlaski'yi (The Place Where it Rains Fire). Sometimes it rains fire here, and the sky looks a little that way tonight. You go to sleep and I'll sit up and watch, and if the fire does come, as soon as you hear me shout, you run and jump into the river. Better hang your coat on a limb over there, so it wont get burnt."     The Otter did as he was told, and they both doubled up to go to sleep, but the Rabbit kept awake. After a while the fire burned down to red coals. The Rabbit called, but the Otter was fast asleep and made no answer. In a little while he called again, but the Otter never stirred. Then the Rabbit filled the paddle with hot coals and threw them up into the air and shouted, "It's raining fire! It's rain- king fire!"     The hot coals fell all around the Otter and he jumped up. "To the water!" cried the Rabbit, and the Otter ran and jumped into the river, and he has lived in the water ever since.     The Rabbit took the Otter's coat and put it on, leaving his own instead, and went on to the council. All the animals were there, every one looking out for the Otter. At last they saw him in the distance, and they said one to the other, "The Otter is coming!" and sent one of the small animals to show him the best seat. They were all glad to see him and went up in turn to welcome him, but the Otter kept his head down, with one paw over his face. They wondered that he was so bashful, until the Bear came up and pulled the paw away, and there was the Rabbit with his split nose. He sprang up and started to run, when the Bear struck at him and pulled his tail off, but the Rabbit was too quick for them and got away. Rogue rabbit ends up in Manchester polling station http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-manchester-39804727 An escaped rabbit wandered into a polling station to the amusement of council staff and voters. Fudge's owner was shocked to find his pet when he arrived to vote at the station in Chorlton, Manchester. An appeal had already been made on social media, as voters were choosing the mayor of Greater Manchester. One person working inside the station tweeted: "Missing: brown rabbit has just wandered into our Polling Station #Chorlton. Random Election Day!" A council worker said: "The owner was very surprised to be reunited with Fudge inside the polling station." There appear to be no rules regarding rabbits in polling stations. But rules regarding other animals seem clearer. Before the 2008 London Mayoral election polling staff were issued with advice stating that dogs had to be in an "accompanying" role rather than "free-range". And dogs have been pictured outside polling stations across the UK. In rural constituencies where voters may arrive on horseback, animals should be tethered outside. United pays five-figure sum to owner of deceased rabbit:report http://www.freepressjournal.in/world/united-pays-five-figure-sum-to-owner-of-deceased-rabbitreport/1061966 United Airlines has reportedly paid a five-figure compensation to a British rabbit breeder whose giant bunny died under its care, the second out of court settlement the beleaguered American airline has made in a week. Three-foot Simon, who was expected to outgrow his father Darius to become the world’s biggest bunny, appeared healthy when he touched down at Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport en route to a celebrity buyer but was found dead a short time later. Giant bunny breeder Annette Edwards was paid a five- figure compensation by the United Airlines after the 1,800 pounds rabbit died in their care, The Sun reported. Under the agreement, “she received an undisclosed cash payout and his ashes will be returned — providing she does not talk about the case which made headlines around the world”, the report said. Simon froze to death after bungling ground staff at Chicago’s O Hare airport put him in a chiller by accident and they later cremated him before a necropsy could be performed, it said. In a statement, Edwards, of Worcestershire, said, “I confirm that United Airlines has been in regular contact with me regarding the sad death of Simon the rabbit and that the matter has now been resolved to my satisfaction.” “I would like to thank everyone for their condolences. This matter has now been resolved to my satisfaction and I will not be commenting further,” she was quoted as saying. Simon’s new celebrity owner in Iowa is also thought to have been included in the settlement but no details were released, the report said. “We were saddened by the loss of Simon and have worked with Annette Edwards to reach a satisfactory resolution,” United Airlines told the daily. This was one among a slew of public relations disasters for the United Airlines in a tormented month. Three weeks ago, footage emerged of a doctor being violently dragged off from one their flights after overbooking meant United airlines staff had no seats. The matter was finally settled out of court last week. Just days after the incident, it emerged that a bride and groom headed for their wedding were booted from a United Airlines flight after they relocated to empty seats three rows up without permission. The makers of PaRappa The Rapper and Elite Beat Agents are allegedly collaborating on a new music game called Project Rap Rabbit. http://metro.co.uk/2017/05/03/parappa-and-gitaroo-man-crossover-game-rumoured-6613628/ Not that we’re complaining, but all of a sudden we seem to be drowning in video game crossovers. From Marvel Vs. Capcom: Infinite and Puyo Puyo Tetris to the rumors today of Mario + Rabbids and now… Gitaroo Man and PaRappa The Rapper. The release of a remastered version of PaRappa The Rapper last month naturally encouraged speculation that a new game of some kind might be on its way, but if this rumor from website Rice Digital is accurate it won’t be a straight sequel. What at first seems to be just a random, outsourced rumor does have some fairly believable looking artwork attached to it. And even a little logo. The game is called, or perhaps just code-named, Project Rap Rabbit and is supposedly a collaboration between PaRappa developer NanaOn-Sha and Gitaroo Man creators iNiS (also known for fellow rhythm action games Osu! Tatakae! Ouendan and Elite Beat Agents). The Japanese text at the bottom of the screen apparently says, ‘Make rhythm-action great again’. Which is an idea we can certainly get behind. How similar the game will be in terms of game-play between the two is impossible to know at the moment. But while Gitaroo Man was never as successful as PaRappa it is one of our favorites in the genre, and well worth seeking out on PlayStation 2 or PSP. Watch now: A giant bunny rabbit searches for "Help" in Papa Roach's new video http://www.wjbdradio.com/music-news/2017/05/01/watch-now-a-giant-bunny-rabbit-searches-for-help-in-papa-roachs-new-video Posted on 5/1/2017 10:16 AM Eleven Seven MusicPapa Roach has premiered the video for their track "Help," a single from the band's forthcoming album, Crooked Teeth. The clip follows a man dressed in a full-body bunny rabbit costume as he tries to go about his day, only to be met with constant ridicule and abuse. As the end of the video, he finds a helping hand in another bunny-costumed person. Crooked Teeth, which also features the tracks "American Dreams" and "Born for Greatness," will be released May 19. https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=RDHYLTsdeO2uA&v=4HS2DQrG7wE

In this weeks episode, we will be covering the Flemish Giant rabbit, the plant of the week which is Linseed, the word of the week; admission, and a few news articles. I have a new segment I am adding to the podcast.  Every week I would like to bring you an item on Amazon that I personally use or has been purchased by many members of the audience, and I have researched enough to recommend. Today’s HOTR Amazon Item of the week is the 20 Pack of Blue Barb Rabbit Nipples for Automated watering .   I believe with some things to always buy the best you can afford. This weeks product is a nipple waterer for rabbits.  These are one of the best rabbit nipples available for 5/16″ inch tubing.  These are easy to take apart either to clean or replace parts. They are easy for rabbits to use and works great with gravity fed or low psi automated watering systems.  They can also be used with Ferrets, Chinchilla’s and other small Mammals.  I have found that the blue ones seem to hold up better then the red nipples.  I have also found that the “T”‘s that are with the nipples break very easily, so I would not recommend expecting the “T”‘s to last very long.  In fact, I have found that the “T”‘s last about thee weeks before I have a failurethat I have to change them out.  The nipples I have found seem to last pretty well.  I have had to swap them out about every few months, and this is because they sometimes break in half, and I think this is more from getting knocked by something outside of the cage.  They attach to the cage by sticking one end of the spring in one of the small holes on the metal base of the drinker, hook that to the cage, and stick the drinker inbetween one of the bars of the cage, with the hook on the nipple piece to the cage.     If you would like to support the podcast, you can support through Patreon for one dollar a month.  Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators.  Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. you can also support the podcast, and help keep the lights on, whenever you use Amazon through the link at Hare of the Rabbit on the support the podcast page. It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what.   Now we are going to explore the Flemish Giant Rabbit.  We briefly discussed this breed last week when we were covering the Belgian Hare, and that led to this episode. History Opinions differ as to the real origin of the Flemish Giant.  It is undisputed that Flanders – the origin of it’s present name – was the country of it’s adoption and dissemination throughout Europe and eventual appearance in America.  As early as the 1500’s, rabbits "four times bigger than ‘normal’ rabbits" were already living in the area of Verona, Belgium.  Exactly when the actual oversize rabbit giant genes first surfaced will probably remain forever unknown. It could have been a random mutation. It was bred as early as the 16th century near the city of Ghent, Belgium. It is believed to have descended from a number of meat and fur breeds, possibly including the Steenkonijn (Stone Rabbit—referring to the old Belgian weight size of one stone or about 3.76 kg (8 lb 5 oz)) and the European "Patagonian" breed (now extinct). The name Patagonia is a reference, which could be a reference to Argentina, or to a Spanish term meaning "big foot."  On the other hand, the belief that giant creatures lived in Patagonia was common at the time, making the name a logical one for a very large rabbit breed. In the late 19th and early 20th century, big bunnies were all the rage.  From Flanders, Belgium comes the biggest bunny of all, the Flemish Giant.  Europe, however, can give no definite information as to how or when it first appeared there.  It is known to have been bred there on a large scale during a period of several hundred years, and for a long time was called the Patagonian rabbit. Now I read many different thoughts about the "Patagonian" Rabbit, and I will cover them as we go. This "Patagonian" rabbit, a large breed that was once bred in Belgium and France, was not related to the Patagonian rabbit of Argentina (Sylvilagus brasiliensis), a separate wild species weighing less than two pounds (about 1 kg), nor the Patagonian hare (Dolichotis patagonum), a species in the cavy family of rodents that cannot interbreed with rabbits. An analysis of historical events during the 16th and 17th centuries gives strong support to the belief that the original Patagonian was the wild rabbit of Patagonia in the Argentine Republic.  During the 16th and 17th centuries the Dutch were sailing the seas back and forth, trading with the West Indies, Central and South America.  It is not likely that they would bring back with them merely the name Patagonia and tack it on to the rabbit of Flanders and the Netherlands.    It is, however, very likely that they would take back to Europe the rabbit itself, and name it after the country from which it came.  However, it was just about the time the Dutch were carrying on their trade with South America that these rabbits first became known.  Previously there was no record of them.  Even today the loose limbed, wild sandy rabbit of Patagonia has the same typical appearance of the Patagonian rabbit of Flanders as it existed there several hundred years ago. It seems likely then that one of three things happened.  Either this rabbit was taken from Europe to Patagonia, or from Patagonia to Europe, or was a breed givin an exotic name with no origin's in Patagonia; but since we find no record in Europe before the Dutch started trading with America, then it seems fairly obvious that this rabbit may have originate in Patagonia. Whereas, however, in Patagonia the rabbit has remained wild and not been subjected to selective breeding, leaving it as it was hundreds of years ago. In Europe and America, selective breeding has been carried out extensively, and this has produced the far superior rabbit known today as the Flemish Giant. The earliest authentic record of the Flemish Giant Rabbit occurred about the year 1860.  At that time, in England, stories were being circulated by travelers having recently returned from Flanders, of the enormous size of the rabbits raised in that country and in parts of France.  Weights of certain specimen were stated to be 18  to 20 pounds.   Rabbit meat at the time was being imported into England to the extent of millions of pounds yearly and local breeders were unable to fill the demand.  English breeders of meat stock produced their product from stock weighing an average of 7 to 8 pounds at maturity, so it was but a short time later that the first importation of Flemish breeding rabbits took place.  In The British Islands Rabbit breeding as a fancy and as a means of reducing family expenses was looked upon more as a necessity rather then a hobby with this and competition being what it is, it was but a short time before the Flemish Giant made its appearance at some of the many rabbit shows held periodically in England.  The first standards for the breed were written in 1893. The first Flemish exhibited, although impressive in size, was not handsome.  The color being of a dirty iron grey with sandy or white bars on legs, long ears bent over at the tips, and a general uncouth appearance.  Nevertheless, it was but a brief period before the first Flemish Breeders’ Association was organized for the express purpose of improving the new breed.  Various experiments and crosses with other varieties worked a wonderful change in the former homely specimen and it eventually became the rule that no show was complete without a large display of Flemish Giants.  The weight and color improved from time to time.   American fanciers imported Flemish Giants from England about the same time of the Belgian Hare boom in the early 1880’s.   Fast-forward to the mid-1800’s.  Multiple Belgian clubs were already regularly holding weight competitions featuring their giant rabbits. The winning Flemish Giants weighed up to 19 pounds in the latter half of the 1800’s. No special notice was attracted to the breed until the year 1910 when at that time rabbits were exhibited at the leading poultry shows throughout the country.  The Flemish Giant was soon established as a favorite owing to their enormous size and beautiful colors.   Flemish Giants arrived in the USA at the very end of the 1890’s. They arrived here only partially pedigreed, yet the demand for these giant rabbits was as monstrous as the rabbits themselves. It was not long before American breeders organized their own clubs and standards of perfection for the Flemish Giant. The breed was well established by the turn of the 20th century, desired for its meat-producing qualities.  The first Flemish Giant club in the United States was established in 1915.  The Federation was founded in 1915 by a group of four Flemish Giant rabbit breeders and recently, they celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Flemish Giant National Show.   In 1924, the Flemish Giant Rabbit became a charter breed of the newly formed American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, the forerunner of today’s ARBA. Before and during the last World War, it was very common in Europe to see these large easy-care rabbits being raised by children, who fed them on garden produce, to provide cheap and healthy meals in hard times. The British Flemish Giant is only bred in the UK, and is not as large as the typically massive Flemish Giants found in every other country. The breed is rare today. British Giant Rabbits The British Giant Rabbit is similar to a true Flemish Giant as recognized throughout the world.  It is a massive rabbit with a minimum weight of 13.5 pounds (6.14 kg), and no maximum weight. Now we are going to look at how the breed spread around rest ot the world!  By the end of the 19th Century, Flemish Giants were recognized in Belgium in two colors, gray agouti (white bellied) and iron gray (dark bellied), and various breeders began importing them to their various countries. Flemish Giant Rabbits are the mammoth rabbits of the rabbit world, and the basis of all giant rabbit breeds such as British Giants, Continental Giants, and Gigantes de Espana (Spanish Giants). New Zealand: The breed was imported into New Zealand from North America in the 1980s, its principal attraction being its large size – it is one of the largest breeds of domestic rabbit.  It soon attained a degree of popularity in NZ, which it still has today.  In 1986 a 10-month old Giant weighting over eight kilograms was imported from Germany and was used to help increase the size of those in New Zealand. Since then no other Flemish Giants have been brought into New Zealand.  Some time after the Flemish Giants were imported into this NZ, they were bred to New Zealand Whites by a small number of commercial breeders to try and produce a larger carcass with a fast growth rate.  The results were not up to their expectations as the cross resulted in an increase of bone to meat ratio – a Flemish Giant will produce bone first before filling out into the large solid rabbit they are.  They are often referred to as slow growers.  The Giants were also crossed with smaller breeds to introduce different colours and this has resulted in a reduction in their overall size, with a number of smaller sized rabbits being sold as Flemish Giants in New Zealand.  Any adult below five kilograms can’t be a giant amongst rabbits and live up to its name!  In 2011 it was estimated that there were about 70 Flemish Giant rabbits in New Zealand. Germany: The Germans changed the name of their Flemish Giants to German Giants in 1937.  They are genetically 100% Flemish Giants, however selectively bred to conform to the particular specifications of the German standards of perfection for the breed. England: Flemish Giants arrived in England in the early 1900’s. There was apparently a difference of opinion as to which breeding goals to pursue and which colors would be permissible. Perhaps this is why one can find a British Flemish Giant which is only bred in the UK and in only one variety, and the larger British Giant Rabbit which resembles the true Flemish Giant, and which is found in various colors. Japan: Japanese Jumbo Whites resulted from crosses between Flemish Giants and New Zealand Whites.  They enjoyed their heyday before 1950, but now their numbers are so few that the Japanese Agriculture Association protects the breed. Spain: The generally accepted breed history is that the Spanish Giant is the result of crosses between Flemish Giants and two Spanish rabbit breeds, the Lebrel Espanol and the Belier, a lop.  Subsequent breedings selected for erect ear carriage and size.  By 1900, the breed known as the Gigante de Espana (Spanish Giant) was recognized in Valencia, Spain. Flemish Giant Rabbits in the USA American Flemish Giant Rabbits are massive, but don’t quite achieve the truly gigantic proportions seen in a few strains of Continental Giants. This does not mean that Flemish Giants do not have the same size potential of the Continental Giant. They do, but the US Standards of Perfection don't incentivize massive size. Additionally, Flemish Giants in the USA do not carry themselves as flat as do the Flemish in other nations.  American breeders focus on their ideas of overall "balance," while still specifying no maximum weight.  In the US, a slightly smaller, but balanced rabbit will win over an enormous Flemish Giant that does not appear sufficiently balanced. This is the part of the USA standard that places less emphasis on a gigantic rabbit, resulting in giant rabbits that aren’t quite as ‘giant’ as their cousins in the UK or Europe. Overall Description Appearance The typical reaction of most people who see their first Flemish in person is that of awe! Those first comments are almost always some version of “WOW! That is one BIG rabbit”; many will also add “that is bigger than my dog!” Both statements are not an exaggerated truth, though are they favorites that the owners of these amazing giants just love to hear. The body of a Flemish Giant Rabbit is powerful, with relatively broad hindquarters without being fat.  It should carry a heavy bone. Flemish Giants are easily recognizable & quite distinguishable from other breeds of rabbits.  Most commonly, Flemish are world-renown for their long, erect ears and their substantially large size. In addition to this, they have big blocky looking heads with bright bold eyes that are fully complimented by long, noticeable eyelashes. When they are sitting in a resting position on a flat surface, starting from the base of their shoulders, they have a gradual rise that transitions across their wide midsection to their massive, broad hindquarters which continues in a smooth descent, over the hips, to a rear end that sits flatly on the table-top. As one of the largest breeds of domestic rabbit, the Flemish Giant is a semi-arch type rabbit with its back arch starting in back of the shoulders and carrying through to the base of the tail giving a "mandolin" shape.  The body of a Flemish Giant Rabbit is long and powerful, with relatively broad hindquarters.   Flemish Giant Rabbits weigh 15 pounds on average, though the biggest ones can weigh up to 22 lb, and the longest one on record (in fact, holding the record for the longest rabbit in the world of any kind), measured about 32 inches long. ARBA - The show standard minimum weight for a senior doe is 14 lb (about 6.4 kg), and the show standard minimum weight of a Senior buck is 13 lb (about 5.9 kg). The English Lop has a minimum ear span length, but the Flemish is the only breed where the standard specifies a minimum rabbit length.  This happens to be the same number as for the English Lop ear span: 21 inches.   Weight is at least 13 pounds on senior bucks and 14 pounds on senior does.  No maximum weight is specified, but some Flemish have pushed even to 20 pounds.  However, when judging the Flemish it is important to remember that big is good, but balanced is better.  Bone should be heavy, These are gentle giants. BRC - Bucks shall not be less than 4.974kg (11lb) and doe’s not less than 5.44kg (12lb). Size shall be considered irrespective of weight. FUR The fur of the Flemish Giant is known to be dense. When stroked to the head, the fur will roll back to its original position. The fur of the Flemish Giant is known to be glossy and dense. When stroked from the hindquarters to the head, the fur will roll back to its original position.  Coat & Condition should be a full short coat, firm in flesh and moderately thick. Color: The American Rabbit Breed Association (ARBA) standard recognized seven different colors for this breed: black, blue, fawn, sandy, light gray, steel gray, and white.  All are solid colors, as “broken patterns” are not recognized by the ARBA.  However, the color standards are different as defined by the BRC, mentioning only Dark Steel Gray. (BRC) Colour - Dark steel grey, with even or wavy ticking over the whole of the body, head, ears, chest and feet alike, except belly and under tail which shall be white, upon the surface of the fur. Any grey, steel, sandy or other shade on the belly or under tail, except a streak of grey in each groin, shall disqualify. AMPLIFICAITON OF COLOUR: The under should be blue at the base for a little more than a third of the length, then black, merging into a creamy, or bluish white ticking which may be again tipped with black.  In even ticked specimens, the mixture should show half grey and half black tipped hairs over half of the body, neck, face and ears, but may be interspersed with longer yet – black hairs, both even and wavy ticking being permissible. The whole should be uniform in colour.  The under parts to be white with blue under-colour. Tail should be ticked rather darker on top, white on the underside. Legs Their front legs will be very large, within proportion to their bodies, which will also be quite visible. However, their hind legs, while they are equally massive & very powerful, will not usually be as visible because they will be tucked up under their sides. BRC - Shall be in length proportionate to body, strong in bone, large and straight. Feet shall be velvety, dark and ticked. Ticking to show when coat rubbed back. Ears and Eyes The ears are around 8" (20cm) long, standing erect, there may be light rings around the eyes.   The ears large, and the standard actually calls for a reposeful expression in the eye.  Eyes shall be bold and dark brown in colour. Bucks and Does: Bucks have a broad, massive head in comparison to does, and can take 1.5 years to reach full maturity. Does may have a large, full, evenly carried dewlap (the fold of skin under their chins), and can take 1 year to reach their full maturity.  Does can take 1 year to reach their full maturity. Breeding season is in February. Flemish Giants do not handle heat well and therefore, pregnant rabbits do not do well during hot Summers. Babies are ready for new homes at 8 weeks or older. BRC and ARBA Although there are several differences of desired traits in this giant rabbit breed, the two most commonly used descriptions are that of the ARBA & the British Rabbit Counsel (BRC) Breed Standard’s of Perfection. Both standards state slight differences, from the American minimal weight standards for fully matured bucks at 13 pounds & 14 pound does, to the British standard of 11 pound bucks & 12 pound does. Other differences include body style, with the ARBA calling for a semi-arched mandolin shape & the BRC desiring longer, flat bodies. Otherwise, both state that heavy bone structure, mass, & thick, long ears, with bold eyes & dense, short fur that has a roll-back effect when brushing your hand across their backs in a back-to-front motion. BRC points:  1) Colour 30 points 2) Size & Weight 20 points 3) Body 15 points 4) Legs and Feet 15 points 5) Head & Ears 10 points 6) Coat & Condition 10 points Total 100 points INTERMEDIATE FLEMISH 1. To be judged to the Giant Standard 2. Age to be over 6 months old. 3. Weight - Buck to be less than 4.989kg (11lb). Doe to be under 5.443kg(12lb). Important Tips to Look for When Buying Show Stock: Big Flemish are desirable, but balance is even more important. Balance means well proportioned.  The head, ears, and legs should balance with the body. Long bodied rabbits should have longer heads, ears, and legs than a medium length rabbit.  Flemish giants should wide enough to not be too narrow.   Things to Avoid: Rabbits that are not balanced.  Pinched hindquarters, fat rabbits, narrow body.  Short body under 20 inches on seniors or lack of body arch is a disqualification.  Thin ears or weak ear base. Ears that turn over at the tip or are less than 5 1/2 inches are a disqualification.  Medium bone is a fault. Fine bone, short legs, cow hocks, flat feet, weak ankles (bending at the ankle affecting straightness of forelegs), and mismatched toenails are disqualifications. Thin, very short or very long fur or a soft coat. Care You should keep in mind that caring for a Flemish Giant differs from caring for smaller well-known rabbit breeds, this is of course mainly due to their larger size. Before getting started you will have to consider which of the different housing options would be the best solution. Due to its large size, the Flemish Giant needs substantial living quarters that provide ample opportunity for physical movement. The House Rabbit Society recommends keeping rabbits inside the home in a very large pen or room(s) in the home.  Larger dog crates are often more appropriate than traditional rabbit and small-pet cages, which tend to be smaller and shorter.  In the United States Department of Agriculture's standards for animal housing, rabbits over 12 pounds must have at least five square feet of floor space.  The size of appropriate living quarters increases with size of the rabbit.  You may wish to consider a custom made hutch, with a large door for the rabbit's access, or perhaps a dog crate would be better than a hutch.  They require a lot of space. Outdoor cages should be 5 feet by 3 feet ( 1.5 meters by 1 meter).  Cages must be in the shade so the rabbits do not overheat. Cages should be protected from wind using painter drop cloth. Cages should have plywood roofs to protect rabbits from rain and snow. The US dept of Agriculture standards for rabbits over 12 lbs (5.45 Kilos), advise at least 5 sq ft (.50 Sq Meters) of floor space for rabbits of such sizes and elsewhere you will find suggestions of minimum hutch sizes for large rabbits to be 14"High x 36" Depth x 48" Width (36x91x122 cm). This size allows the rabbit very little room and whatever you decide upon, just bear in mind the fully grown size can be from 14 to 20lbs (6.36 to 9.09 Kilos). Cages with incorrectly sized wire gauge bottoms (as opposed to small gauge wire or solid bottoms) can harm the feet of a Flemish Giant more so than smaller house rabbits due to their increased weight.  A resting board may be required to prevent sore hocks for a larger breed rabbit.  The Flemish Giant will require larger quantities of food compared to smaller breeds of domestic rabbits. Like some other short hair breeds of rabbits, the Flemish Giant will usually require mild attention to grooming due to its shorter hair. Shedding during the spring and fall transition periods tend to be the most dramatic, with smaller sheds often occurring in between. Care for the Flemish Giant is the same as with all rabbits but a rabbit of such size needs a lot of attention and handling from the beginning or a young age. Diet Flemish Giants can be fed like other rabbits, with the amount of food increased to match their larger size.  ARBA recommendations include hay and occasional treats. A high protein diet of 16% or more is needed for them to gain bone mass while growing and later when muscle mass develops.  Apples, cabbage or broccoli in small amounts can be given as treats and slowly increased.  A quarter apple per rabbit every other day for 3 weeks can be increased to a half apple after that.  Since Flemish Giants do not reach full size until they are 1.5 years old, they need to be fed a lot until then.  When females have babies and during winter, they need to be fed as much as they can eat, and given plenty of water. In supplementing a commercial diet, care must be taken to avoid excess protein, calories, and minerals such as salt and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones.  Overfeeding leading to obesity is a major health concern for both commercial and pet rabbits. The House Rabbit Society recommends 2 cups of chopped leafy vegetables per 6 pounds (3 kg) of body weight and no more than 2 tablespoons of fruit or carrots per 6 pounds of body weight daily. CARE OF THESE GENTLE GIANTS Because of their large size they are usually not bothered by cats, hawks or other small mammal prey.  Flemish Giants do not handle heat well.  They would need shade and a way to cool down. In hot cliamates, some people keep rabbits in a climate controlled environment with air conditioning in the Summer.  Flemish Giants are large rabbits that eat a lot. It is extremely important to have a good quality pellet food and plenty of hay daily.  IF you add a vegetable one day, and the bunny gets diarrhea, STOP IT IMMEDIATELY.  It is critical when a bunny gets diarrhea because they will dehydrate quickly.  Make sure they have plenty of clean water available at all times. Health The American Rabbit Breeders' Association (ARBA) recommends delaying breeding of female rabbits until they reach the senior weight range.  For Flemish Giants, this is 14 pounds, and a typical rabbit will reach this weight when they are about 9 months to one year.  A Flemish Giants can take up to 1.5 years to reach their maximum weight and a breeder should wait until the rabbit is slightly over a year old before breeding.  Females and males can become sexually mature at 4 months and 8 days.  Once the rabbits are 3 months old they should be keep in separate cages or put females with females and males with males.  If fighting occurs then they must be separated.  The breeding lifespan of a rabbit is variable.  Some breeders prefer not to have any more litters after the age of three years while others continue to produce quality litters for five to eight years.  The gestation period is between 28–31 days.  On average they give birth at 30–32 days. The Flemish Giant rabbit can produce large litters, usually between 5 and 12 in a litter. A nesting box filled with hay is given to the female as she prepares for birth.  After birth, clean out the hay, replace with some new hay, and check to see if babies are all alive.  Check box every day in case babies die and take them out. If the rabbit is not used to handling, then you will have big problems later on when, for example, you need to pick them up or examine them.  Rabbits of sizes similar to the Flemish Giant can be heavy to lift when fully grown. Because of their size, children are unlikely to hurt them by picking up or dropping them. They also get on well with other pets and can live easily with smaller rabbits, but you need to be careful with any introduction to smaller rabbits. Although they can cope with cold temperatures, they do not fare so well with the heat.  They must have exercise and it needs to be remembered that they will be more expensive to keep. They will eat a lot more than the smaller breeds, requiring more hay; they excrete more and need larger living accommodation. Larger rabbits can become high maintenance as they get older, though no more than a dog would. Uses Flemish are thought to have originally been used for fur & meat production.  However, it has since been realized that due to their large bone density, the meat to bone ratio is not the most ideal prospect available for such a purpose as meat production.  Instead, they are now primarily kept as pets and showmanship animals, as well as for 4H projects in the United States.  These gentle-giants are well-known for their easy-going, calm, docile nature.  Because of this, they make great pets for children and adults alike. Flemish Giants make excellent pets as they are calm, but heavy for most children to handle.  They eat at least .5 kg. or more food a day of dried rabbit pellets.  They expel a lot of waste.  Flemish Giants are not typically regarded as "meat" rabbits because much of the commercial rabbit market focuses on young rabbits, usually around 70 days of age.  At this time, Flemish Giants are developing bone mass rather than muscle.  However, when raised to roasting (under 6 months) and stewing (over 6 months) age, the size of the Flemish makes them desirable.  They are also often bred with other meat rabbit breeds, such as the New Zealand, to increase both meat-to-bone ratio and litter size. Due to the large amount of high protein food they consume and the cost of this food, the selling of the Flemish Giants for meat is not profitable; as buyers want to give just a few dollars per rabbit. Apart from being kept as a pet, the Flemish Giant is used for meat, fur, show, pet assisted therapy and education. 4-H and Show Flemish Giants, due to their uncomplicated grooming requirements and docile personalities, are used by 4-H programs throughout the United States as a starter rabbit for teaching children responsibility and care of farm animals and pets.  Another very popular youth program outside of 4-H that promotes responsible show breeding is the National Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders Youth Program.  Flemish Giants are the second oldest domesticated rabbit breed in the United States, following behind the now rare Belgian Hare, which we covered in last weeks episode. The Flemish these days is primarily a fancy breed, raised for show and pets.   People who first see them sometimes think these biggest ones must be meat rabbits, but Flemish consumes too much feed for the meat yield to be a very efficient commercial breed.  They have always had a strong following. Today the Flemish rabbit leads in number exhibited at all the principle shows and are sold at the highest prices recorded since the days of the ill-fated Belgian boom. Temperment/behavior Flemish Giants can be docile and tolerant of handling; frequent interaction with humans is a requirement for this to occur.  Flemish Giants, like all rabbits, can become fearful, and sometimes aggressive, if handled incorrectly or irresponsibly.  Their larger frame requires special attention paid to the spine alignment when handling a Flemish Giant, or any rabbit for that matter. Consequently, potential owners should consider these factors in addition to their size, level of food consumption, and substantial waste production before buying. It should be stressed though that proper handling of such large bunnies is very important- for your benefit as well as theirs. They do have very powerful hind legs, & when they feel threatened or scared, or are hurt, they can quickly inflict serious injury. Otherwise, due to the size of these bunnies, respectfully compared to that of a medium-sized dog, they require more money & time spent in caring for them than that of a smaller breed of rabbit. However, owning such a wonderful rabbit is well worth the investments to have one, or more.  Among other things, when considering becoming a Flemish Giant owner, it’s always best to learn all that you can before you buy. Each & every one of these gentle Giants has his or her own personality.  They are very inquisitive, and they are quite intelligent.  They will often stand up on their hind legs and stretch their bodies out so that they can see what is around them.  This is a common greeting as well, especially when they are buttering up their owner for a good ear-scratching or head-rub.  It also goes without saying that the more attention they get, the more they will want.  They will play with toys too, rolling them around by using their front paws or some nose-nudging, picking them up with their teeth, and most of the time will follow through by tossing it in true bunny-fashion.  If your big buddy is quite fond of you, or just in a playful mood, he may even bring his toy to you in the manner a dog would, when playing fetch.  However, they will also let you know when they are aggravated or upset, be it with you or for any number of other reasons.  This may be done by completely ignoring your greetings, turning their back to you and refusing to acknowledge that you even exist at that very minute, or if they are really ticked off, you can expect some loud thumping from those heavy hind feet and possibly adding in some grunting noises while they are demonstrating their unhappiness.  Although some Flemish are more vocal than others, they all do possess the ability and will, at some point, of making known their wide array of sounds. There are a few things that Flemish Giants do not tolerate very well.  First on their list is being picked up.  They become very nervous when they are picked up.  Therefore the importance of doing so correctly can not be stressed enough.  Picking them up is best done by lifting with both hands under midsection.  When that is not a possibility, pick them up swiftly, by the scruff (between the shoulder blades), and rapidly tuck them into position; be that onto a sturdy surface, or holding them in the manner of carrying a small human child, with their butt cradled in your arm and their front feet resting on your chest, or in a foot-ball type hold, where their head is tucked into the bend of your elbow, your arm snuggly holding their body against your stomach region while using your other hand to securely support around the rest of their massive body.  Once they know that they are secure and safe, they will relax and you can carry them around. Next, they do not like any loud noises, of any kind.  To them, this only means ones thing, danger is near! They will run, stomp, jump, scratch, and even bite without warning if they are really afraid.  Keep in mind that if these things happen to you, especially if you just brought your furry friend into your home, he is afraid and trying to protect him-self. Don’t take it as a personal attack against you in particular.  Brighter, happier days are just around the corner.  Be patient and be sure to give your Flemish the best possible care that you can. Flemish Giants are placid and laid-back, docile and tolerant by nature.  Because of this they do well with considerable handling, and are ideal for showing and as pets. Am intersting fact I uncovered about the breed is that the:  THE NEW YORK DAILY NEWS ONCE "INTERVIEWED" A FLEMISH GIANT. In 2010, the paper ran an "interview" with Herbie, Prospect Park Zoo’s 18-pound rabbit, to promote the zoo’s Live Encounters Program.  It was actually an interview with Denise McClean, the zoo’s director.  McClean revealed that Herbie was domestic and "probably would not be able to survive out in the wild on my own." In response to the question "Do you ever misbehave?" she said, "Flemish Giant rabbits have litters that run from five to 12 bunnies. If you left me with a female, you could end up with a whole lot of rabbits." Uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use.  Even though this is a large breed of rabbit, they are gentle and easily handled.  This makes them good for pets or show rabbits. Club Today, it is one of the more popular breeds at rabbit shows because of its unusually large size and its varying colors.  It is promoted by the National Federation of Flemish Giant Rabbit Breeders, which was formed in 1915.  The Flemish Giant has many nicknames, first and foremost the "Gentle Giant" for its uniquely docile personality and also the "universal rabbit" for its varied purposes as pet, show, breeding, meat and fur animal. The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership.  Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy.  With over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, its members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial rabbit raiser with several hundred animals.  Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry, whether it be for fancy, as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by the organization. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Originally founded as The Beveren Club in 1918, its name first changed to British Fur Rabbit Society and finally to The British Rabbit Society. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Owners of house rabbits are also encouraged to join the organization to learn how to care optimally for their pets. Both the ARBA and the BRC recognize the Flemish Giant Rabbit with slightly differing standards as discussed earlier. Have I Missed Anything? If you know something about the Flemish Giant breed standard, history or status of this rabbit, please let me know.   Do you have a story about this particular Breed?  What do you love about them?  Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make this breed happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of this type of rabbit. Let me know, and maybe we can set up an interview? http://www.nffgrb.net/Articles/Origins.htm http://rabbitbreeders.us/flemish-giant-rabbits http://mentalfloss.com/article/62965/7-big-facts-about-flemish-giant-rabbit http://www.rabbitmatters.com/flemish-giant.html http://flemish-giant.com/ http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeds/flemish-giant-rabbit-breed-information/ http://www.raising-rabbits.com/flemish-giant-rabbits.html www.thebrc.org www.arba.net https://www.rarebreeds.co.nz/flemishgiants.html http://www.petrabbitinfo.com/flemishgiantrabbits.html www.nffgrb.com. https://gentlegiantrabbitry.com/about-us/ NEWS: United Airlines in fresh PR nightmare after rabbit set to be world’s biggest dies on UK flight http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/04/26/united-airlines-fresh-pr-nightmare-rabbit-set-worlds-biggest/ United Airlines is battling another PR nightmare after a rabbit destined to be the world’s biggest died on a flight from Britain to the US. The airline, which recently triggered a worldwide backlash after a passenger was forcibly removed from one of its flights, could now face legal action after the death of a valuable rabbit in the cargo section of a Boeing 767 from Heathrow to Chicago’s O'Hare International Airport. Simon, son of Darius the worlds largest rabbit who died during transit to the USA Measuring three-feet, Simon was expected to outgrow his father Darius, whose length of 4ft 4in made him the world's biggest bunny. The 10-month-old continental giant rabbit was reportedly being sent to his new celebrity owner, whose identity hasn’t been revealed.  “Simon had a vet’s check-up three hours before the flight and was fit as a fiddle,” breeder Annette Edwards, of Stoulton, Worcs, told The Sun. “Something very strange has happened and I want to know what. I’ve sent rabbits all around the world and nothing like this has happened before.” The animal was found dead when it arrived at O’Hare, the airport where passenger Dr David Dao was dragged off a United flight earlier this month. "We were saddened to hear this news,” a United Airlines spokeswoman said, according to the Mirror. "The safety and wellbeing of all the animals that travel with us is of the utmost importance to United Airlines and our PetSafe team. "We have been in contact with our customer and have offered assistance. We are reviewing this matter." Ms Edwards, a former glamour model whose rabbits are said to be hired out at £500 a time, and the new owner in the US are considering legal action, the Sun reported. Darius, the Guinness World Record holder for world’s biggest rabbit, weighs three-and-a-half stone and costs his owner about £2,400 per year in food alone. United Airlines is already facing a row over a passenger being taken off a plane at Chicago's O'Hare Airport His mother Alice held the record before him and Simon was expected to continue the family tradition. The most recent figures from the US Department of Transportation - dating from 2015 but released this February - show 35 animal deaths occurred during transit across 17 carriers in the States. United accounted for 14 animal deaths in that period with a further nine reported injured among the nearly 100,000 animals carried by the company. United Airlines is still trying to tackle the public relations disaster caused by Dr Dao’s removal from a Chicago to Louisville flight on April 9. Video recorded by other passengers showed the 69-year-old doctor being dragged down the aisle with blood on his face after refusing to give up his seat. The carrier has since apologised several times. Second wild rabbit tests positive for tularemia in Pueblo West http://www.koaa.com/story/35243351/second-wild-rabbit-tests-positive-for-tularemia-in-pueblo-west PUEBLO WEST - A second wild rabbit found in Pueblo West has tested positive for tularemia, according to health officials. This animal was found near Scarsboro Drive. The first animal was found before Friday, April 21 in the Kirkwood Drive area. Health officials do not believe either rabbit came into contact with people. Both animals were reportedly covered with ticks. Tularemia, also called rabbit fever, is known to be transmitted by ticks and deer fly bites. Rabbit fever, or tularemia, can spread to human and cause life-threatening fever.  Typical signs of infection in humans include fever, chills, headache, muscle aches, chest pain, and coughing. Tularemia can be effectively treated with antibiotics, therefore should you have any of these early signs, see a doctor.   Dogs and cats can also contract tularemia by eating infected animals or through tick and deer fly bites. Signs to watch in your pet include fever, nasal and eye discharge, and skin sores. If you notice any of those signs it is recommended that you take your pet to a veterinarian promptly. Health officials recommend the following precautions to avoid the bacteria: · Avoid handling wild animals. · Leash your pets when outdoors and keep them away from dead animals. · When outdoors near places where wild rabbits or rodents are present, wear insect repellent containing DEET. · If a dead animal must be moved, avoid direct contact with it. Put on a repellent to protect yourself from its fleas or ticks, and use a shovel to scoop it up. Place it in a plastic bag and dispose in an outdoor trash receptacle. Wash your  hands with soap and water afterward. · Wear proper footwear outdoors where dead animals have been found. · Routinely use a tick and flea prevention treatment on pets. · Avoid mowing over dead animals. If you hunt, trap or skin animals, take additional steps: · Use impervious gloves when skinning or handling animals, especially rabbits. · Cook the meat of wild rabbits thoroughly to a temperature of 165°For higher. Rabbit club seeks participants http://www.prairieadvocate.com/2017/04/23/rabbit-club-seeks-participants/akghmaa/ by Prairie Advocate staff MOUNT CARROLL – The 4-H Rabbit SPIN Club is looking for members. Participants don’t have to be 4-H members, but must be from 8 to 18 years old by Sept. 1, 2016. Meetings are from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. May 8 and 21, June 6 and 26, and July 10, 24, and 31, at 610 E. Washington St. Participants will show their rabbits May 21 in Belvidere, and do not have to own a rabbit. Information will include field trips to professional rabbit shows and rabbit breeders, learning how to handle, feed, groom, and perform veterinary checks on a rabbit, and more. Current 4-H members can take part at no cost, while there is a $20 fee for non-4-Hers. Scholarships are available for new club members if needed. Email Leanne Rahn at lrahn@illinois.edu or call the Carroll County Extension Office at 815-244-9444 to register. Boy, 15, charged over hare coursing http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-39671721 A 15-year-old boy has been charged in connection with a hare coursing incident in Midlothian. The teenager was also charged in connection with a dishonesty offence that allegedly occurred at the same time on 31 March. He was further charged in connection with a separate hare coursing incident in the Pathhead area on 23 March. The boy is the second to be charged with the Dalkeith incident which took place on farmland. A report has been submitted to the Children's Reporter. Sgt Michele Lindsay, of Police Scotland, said: "We recognise the impact that hare coursing has on rural communities and remain committed to investigating all reports of this. "We are working with farmers to tackle this issue and patrols are being carried out as part of the rural crime initiative. "Anyone with information about hare coursing or rural crime is urged to speak to a local officer. More than 100 rabbits saved by Brother Wolf http://www.blueridgenow.com/news/20170420/more-than-100-rabbits-saved-by-brother-wolf LEICESTER — A nonprofit animal welfare organization in western North Carolina says it has rescued more than 120 rabbits from a home after getting a tip from the neighbor of a property owner. The Asheville Citizen-Times reports that Brother Wolf Animal Rescue initially took 60 animals from the property, and is in the process of spaying and neutering 60 more. Brother Wolf founder Denise Bitz said more than 30 rabbits were pregnant, resulting in 65 baby bunnies born while in the group’s care. Bitz said many of the rabbits came to Brother Wolf with medical concerns because of overcrowding and poor nutrition. She said several rabbits died. Bitz said the property owner realized she was in over her head, but didn’t have the funds to have the animals spayed and neutered Video of rabbit being hit against pole prompts Maypearl ISD to change curriculum https://www.dallasnews.com/news/education/2017/04/18/video-rabbit-hit-pole-prompts-maypearl-isd-change-curriculum Written by Claire Z. Cardona, Breaking News Producer The Maypearl Independent School District is changing the curriculum for one of its classes after a video surfaced that shows a junior high student killing a rabbit for a class assignment, KXAS-TV (NBC5) reported. The outdoor education elective at Maypearl Junior High School is focused on survival and life skills. Part of the class involves the "dispatching and harvesting of animals, cleaning of animals and the proper cooking techniques of the animals, and those kinds of things," Maypearl ISD Superintendent Richie Bowling told NBC5. In a video of the incident provided to the Waxahachie Daily Light, a seventh-grade student is instructed by her teacher to kill the rabbit. The student is seen swinging the rabbit into a metal pole. A few parents raised concerns about the animal being killed, and whether it was killed humanely. The school has since changed the curriculum so no more animals will be killed in the class, the station reported. "Our parents were given information prior to even signing up for the class and asking to be a part of it," Bowling told the station. "And my understanding of that is it lists every bit of that out, as far as dispatching animals, harvesting animals, and all the processes that go along with that." The student who filmed the video was given a three-day in-school suspension because of the school's cellphone policy, the Daily Light reported. In its guidelines for the implementation of agriculture education, the Texas Education Code expects students to discuss "livestock harvesting operations" as well as "describe wildlife harvest techniques and procedures." It does not mention an in-class demonstration, the Houston Chronicle reported.

Today we are going to explore the Belgian Hare. History Now, the fist thing that surprised me about the Belgian Hare was definitely the body shop.  Unlike the mandolin body shap of most rabbits that I have learned about.  These Rabbits look distinctly like a hare.   Perhaps unsurprisingly, the first examples of this breed were developed in Belgium in the early eighteenth century by crossing wild rabbits with domestic breeds in order to create a good meat animal Much of the information I have learned about this breed is from an article titled "Belgian Hare Origins"  By Frank Zaloudek. The Belgian Hare can be traced back to the "leporine" developed in the early part of the 18th century in the Flanders area of eastern Europe by the selective breeding of domestic and wild European rabbits. Leporines were imported from Belgium and Germany to England in the 1870s by Mr. W. Lumb and his brother-in-law Mr. B. Greaves, importers of small stock from continental Europe. Wilkins (1896) wrote that after their introduction into England ..."they (were) bred continuously, but with two and distinct objects - in the one, for size, and the other, ostensibly to develop a rabbit of the form, color and fur of the wild hare. The larger race has been called the 'Patagonian', but is now recognized as the 'Flemish Giant', the other has been named 'Belgian Hare' rabbit." It was explained that the redder colored Leporines resembled the common wild hare of England (lepus Timidus), and a number of adventuresome rabbit aficionados and natural scientists undertook the task of employing selective breeding to make the Leporine look more like lepus Timidus. These early breeders included Mr. Lumb, Dr, Barham, and Dr.J Salter a Physician, Fellow of the Royal Society, Fellow of the Zoological Society.  Fellow of the Linnaean Society, an friend of Charles Darwin.  Their rabbits were called the "Belgian Hare"-- "Belgian" (to recognize their origin) and "Hare" (to recognize their resemblance to Lepus Timidus which was a true hare).  Breeders of the Belgian Hare began to compete in small livestock shows and standards were first written in 1882. The breed was further refined to make the Belgian Hare appear even more like the English wild hare (lepus Timidus), i.e., more racy in shape than the breeders were then producing.  This new, more racy, Belgian Hare was described in a 1889 revision of the standard.  In addition to the more racy shape, the new standard called for ticking more like the wild hare (more distributed in waves), a bold eye, greater length of limb, and no ticking on the front limbs, ears, or hind feet (however, a small amount of ticking was allowed on the front feet).  In 1888, E.M. Hughes of Albany, N.Y. brought the first Belgian Hare to America. Mr. Hughs along with Mr. W.N Richardson of Troy, NY and Mr. G.W. Fenton of Barr, MA promoted and exhibited the Belgian Hare at small stock shows across the US and should be given credit for the early popularization of the breed in this country. Shortly after Mr. Hughes importation of the Belgian Hare from the UK, The breeders in this country formed the "American Belgian Hare Association". Mr W.N. Richardson of Troy, N.Y was named Secretary.  However this association lasted not much more than one year.  Mr. Crabtree wrote, "Although started in a liberal Spirit, and with the best of intentions, it became disorganized on account of the wide scattering of the membership making it difficult to obtain a quorum at meetings".  A second attempt to organize was made in 1897.  The "National Belgian Hare Club of America" was formed, with headquarters in Denver, CO and Mr. P.E. Crabtree as secretary.  Twelve years after the formation of the National Belgian Hare Club of America and as additional breeds were introduced in the US, a new "all-breed" club, the " National Pet Stock Association" was formed. After several name changes, the National Pet Stock Association became the American Rabbit Breeders Association.  As the years past, the National Belgian Hare club of America also passed from existence.  In the June of 1972, a group of Belgian Hare breeders gathered together to apply for a specialty club charter from the American Rabbit Breeders Association to replace the defunct National Belgian Hare Club of America. In July of 1972 the charter was granted and our present club, the "American Belgian Hare Club" was established. The Boom Years After introduction into the United States in 1888, the Belgian Hare enjoyed much popularity, and large rabbitries were built for their production.  Large numbers of rabbits were imported at fabulous prices. It is recorded that Hares fetched prices of $500 to $1000 each (in pre-1900 Dollars!).  This was called "the Belgian Hare boom." Remember, this was at a time when labor earned 10 to 15 cents per hour.  This would be 2X3 times a laborers annual wages. Mr. C. H. Lane reported that a center of Belgian Hare popularity existed in Los Angeles area where the weather was particularly advantageous to the propagation of the hare. In 1898, there were no less than 600 rabbitries there carrying from 75 to more than a 1000 head of stock each. He further stated that in 1900, over 60,000 Belgian Hares were being raised in Southern California alone and numbers were on the increase! In 1900, the National Belgian Hare Club of America held its first Exposition, which was reputedly the first and certainly the largest exposition seen up to that time confined to only one breed of rabbit. The National Belgian Hare of America club promulgated Standards of Excellence for TWO varieties , one for the "Standard" (fancy) Belgian Hare and one for the "Heavy Weight" (commercial) Belgian Hare. Today, the American Rabbit Breeders Association recognizes only a "fancy" variety in their "Standards of Perfection." The End of the Boom  Inevitably, supply caught up with demand and the Belgian Hare Boom was over. James Blyth in his article "King of the Fancy" in the October, 1973 issue of Countryside & Small Stock Magazine, had some additional insight into the end of the "boom". He wrote, "Until about 1917 Belgians led in entries. When the Hares were judged, the show was about over. The Hares were hurt when they came out with a standard for the heavyweight Belgian, Trying to make a meat rabbit out of this fine racy animal certainly was not for the good of the race horse of the rabbit family. At this time the Hare began to lose its place in popularity. Each breed has its place, and when you strive for meat-type in a fancy rabbit, you have lost much of that alert and fine, clean-cut appearance." The Belgian Hare is best known for its distinctive body type and temperament, as well as its important history.  Although hares are not among the most common breeds today, if not for them we might not even have a rabbit fancy in the United States. Prior to 1890, rabbits were not widely raised in America, and those that were usually went to feed the family.  In England, however, the rabbit show circuit had been blossoming for a while.  In 1888, the first Belgian Hares were imported.  That was when the “rabbit show bug” bit America, and the fancy took off like a shot.  Men from all over the country flocked to get their hands on some of the hares.  Companies formed for their production and dispersion.  One British shipping firm transported  6,000 hares to the United States between 1898 to 1901.  Clubs sprung up in most large cities.  Millionaires such as J. P. Morgan and John D. Rockefeller became interested in promoting the hares.  Prices on show stock were exorbitant – one buck went for $5,000 in 1900! That same year, breeders in Los Angeles county alone were believed to own 60,000 Belgian Hares.  Eventually interest died down, the market became saturated, and the Belgian fell under the shadow of more popular rabbit breeds – but not before the people who raised it had developed systems of rabbit housing, standards, and tattooing, and had founded the club that would become the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Overall Description The Belgian Hare is a fancy breed of domestic rabbit, that was developed through selective breeding to closely resemble the wild hare in physical appearance.[1] Averaging 6 to 9 pounds in weight, the Belgian Hare is characterized by its long, slender body and agile legs that closely resemble those of a hare, and can live up to ten years or more. The Belgian Hare is most known for its distinctively close resemblance to a hare, with a long, fine body with muscular flank, and distinctly arched back with loins and well-rounded hind quarters. Their head is long and their tail straight and carried in line with the backbone. The fore feet of a Belgian Hare is usually long and fine-boned and perfectly straight, while their hind feet long are fine and flat. They are believed to be the only breed of domestic breed featuring a deep red, rich chestnut color of the Belgian Hare, together with black ticking of a wavy or blotchy appearance and an extended down the sides. The Belgian Hare is a distinct rabbit, with a deep red “rufus” coat with black, wavy ticking. It closely resembles a hare, with a long, fine body, muscular flank, and arched back with loins and well-rounded hind quarters. Body The Belgian Hare, although a domestic rabbit, was bred to closely resemble to a wild hare. It is for that reason that this breed has a long, muscular body with an arched back. They have long heads, a straight tail, which is carried in line with the backbone, and tall, slightly wide, erect ears. ears and eyes Coat The Belgian Hare has a short coat and if kept clean, requires little grooming other than an occasional rub over to remove any dead coat. When in moult the coat benefits from a good combing through every other day to remove the old coat. This will help bring the new coat through faster and minimize the old fluffy undercoat matting up when its on the way out. The Belgian Hare has short, glossy fur that requires little to no maintenance to keep it in pristine condition. Rabbits are genuinely clean animals. They should never be given a bath, as this causes great stress and can lead to heart failure. Occasionally, rub your Belgian Hare down to rid the coat of any dead fibers (no brushing required) and their coat should remain in good condition. colors The ARBA accepts only one kind of Belgian Hare coat color: a bright tin rust, with a red/orange tint. The entire body consists of this color, and markings include lighter-colored eye circles and “ticking” on particular parts of the body, such as on their upper back and hips. care Due to their difference from other breeds of domestic rabbit, the Belgian Hare may require different dietary and housing requirements to other rabbits, and as a result, they may demand more attention and care. Housing Belgian Hares are constantly on the move, especially when you are around, performing their graceful ballet. Therefore, for both the animal's benefit and for your enjoyment of it graceful movement, you should provide a large cage with at least 24 x 48 inch floor. The floor should be solid (not wire), because the 1/2 x 1 inch wire most commonly used for flooring will not adequately support the Hare's front feet and can lead to broken toes and toe nails. These solid floors should be bedded with a layer of clean and bright straw, shredded computer paper, or whatever is available in you area. The cage should be high enough to allow the Hare to stretch and leap; 24 inch height should be adequate. Breeding/brood cages should be larger, say 30 x 60 inches, to allow the doe to move around adequately without trampling her brood. It is important to remember that you need to able to reach the back corners of the cage for cleaning. Proportion your such that you can do this without putting you head and shoulders into the cage. Cleaning and sanitation will be less onerous of you follow this advice! Due to their size and energetic nature, it is recommended that the Belgian Hare be provided with a large hutch or cage to enable them to move freely. For an outdoor rabbit the ideal home is a hutch with a waterproof roof, and raised off the ground. If the rabbit is going to live indoors then a hutch can also be used or a cage. Belgian Hares should have a cage with at least a 24 by 60-inch floor and a height of 24 inches. A breeding or brood cage should be 36 by 72 inches, at least. All rabbits must have an adequate exercise area, whether it is an outside run or an enclosed area in the house. Softwood shavings should not be used for the floor of the hutch or cage as they can cause respiratory problems. Fine sawdust can cause eye irritations so this should be avoided. Bedding material should be provided especially in cold and wet weather for the outdoor rabbit. A recommended practice is to place the straw on top of a layer of the hardwood shavings in the sleeping compartment, in order to ensure warmth and insulation for an outdoor Belgian Hare. The rabbit home should be cleaned out weekly and any old food removed. If it is necessary to wash the home then only use a cleaner specifically designed for cleaning rabbit hutches. Environment and Sanitation The sanitation requirements of Belgian Hares do not differ from that of any other breed. Cages should be cleaned every 5 to 7 days and all bedding replaced. At the same time, feeders and water bottles or crocks should be washed and sterilized. As with any rabbit breed, ventilation should be adequate, but without drafts. If you can smell ammonia when you enter your barn, either sanitation or ventilation (or both) is inadequate. Belgian Hares are no less susceptible to extreme heat than other rabbits. If you live in a location where the temperatures get above 90, you will have to be prepared to keep them cool or lose them! They seem to be able to cope with temperatures down to 0 F if provided with ample bedding and shielded from the wind and snow. However, the Belgian Hare doe's short hair is scarcely in adequate supply to line the nest box sufficiently to keep her bunnies warm. To avoid losses during kindling in very cold weather, it would be advisable to have a warmed space available for kindling. When the bunnies grow a good thick coat in 4 to 6 weeks,they can be slowly introduced to the cold outside temperatures. Diet As the Belgian Hare has a very high metabolic rate, it may require more food and more consistent feeding than other breeds of domestic rabbit. The specific dietary requirements of a Belgian Hare do not differ significantly from other breeds of domestic rabbit, and like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of the diet of a Belgian Hare is hay, a roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa. Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool. This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does. Belgian Hares also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle. Automatic watering system fonts or ball point water bottles should be placed high on the side of the cage to encourage the animal to stretch. Some breeders will place a board 6 inch high across the floor in the middle of the cage to force the hare to leap over it as it moves about its cage. Both these things are thought by some to enhance the development of the animal for the show table. Feeds Belgian hares do not have any special feed requirements. Use a pelletized "complete" feed that is readily available and known for its consistency. Do not overfeed Hares. If you allow them to become fat, they will do poorly on the judging table and the does will have trouble conceiving. About 1-1/2 small tuna fish can-fulls each day seems to be about the right amount for seniors. When it comes to their diet, this rabbit breed needs access to clean, fresh water and high-quality hay.  Hay should be 70 percent of their diet while the rest consists of a  healthy balance of pellets and rabbit-safe vegetables, fruits and leafy greens. There are some foods that should be avoided (iceberg lettuce, for example, does not have enough nutritional value), while others are fine in moderation (apples and carrots are a wonderful treat). Health While Belgian Hares are not susceptible to digestive issues such as Wool Block (like long-haired breeds such as Angoras, for instance), care has to be taken in order for them to live long, healthy lives. Two problems that are most common in outdoor rabbits are ear mites and fly-strike.  Fly-strike is common to rabbits that have soiled fur during the summer. Flies lay their eggs in soiled fur and when the eggs hatch, their primary food source is the rabbit. It is extremely painful and symptoms include lack of appetite, fewer droppings in your bunny’s cage and sudden jumping/thrashing in pain. If you suspect your rabbit may have fly-strike, take them to your veterinarian for treatment. Temperment/behavior Belgian Hares are one of the most energetic and intelligent breeds of rabbit. They are very clever and they will require lots of physical and mental stimulation in order to keep them happy. They are extremely alert and as such can be skittish. The Belgian Hares can easily learn their names and will occasionally come when called. As they are active in nature and have alert temperament, they can be startled by sudden noise or movement very easily. The Belgian Hare has been called the ‘poor man’s racehorse’ because of their active personality. Despite their cute appearance, the breed is not ideal for very small children and for the beginners. Usually the Belgian Hare is an energetic and long lived animal. This is a very clever little animal that will require lots of physical and mental stimulation in order to keep him happy. They are extremely alert and as such can be skittish – many owners recommend keeping a radio playing nearby at all times so they get used to loud or strange noises. They can easily learn their names and will sometimes come when called. The Belgian is not a beginner’s rabbit due to its speed, power and slightly nervous disposition, however for an experienced enthusiast they are rewarding to keep as ensuring the rabbit remains healthy and well is incredibly satisfying. As a result of their active personality, they have been called "the poor man's racehorse".  They can also be taught to play simple games, which can be great fun. They will tolerate handling, particularly if they’ve been used to human company and being picked up from an early age, but again, because they can be unpredictable they should not be handled by children. A panicking rabbit is more powerful than you might think and can easily cause injury as he struggles to flee. Breeding and Raising By Frank Zaloudek If you decide to try breeding and raising Belgian Hares, be prepared for a challenge! Some people have said that you have to throw out all you know about breeding rabbits when you go into Hare raising and use a whole new system of rules, but I assure you that you will need to use all the knowledge and experience that you have to be successful with these beautiful and graceful creatures. You will find that many problems you will experience will be as a result of the Belgian Hare's more excitable temperament than other breeds  They can react to unexpected events in the rabbitry with a fury that can move cages off their supports, dislocate joints, and break bones. This is compounded by the fine bone structure and extreme length of the animal which seems to invite broken backs and legs. Also, this nervous nature seems to complicate breeding, because, in many cases, fright and panic get in the way of normal mating urges. Most important, this nervous temperament seems to translate normal events in the life of a Hare to an overall stress level that can compromise its auto immune system and open the way to bacterial and viral diseases. Perhaps, this nervous tendency came for past breeding attempts to make the Belgian hare more like lepus Timidus which was suppose to be so fearful so as not to close its eyes even in sleep (Wilkins 1896). Although you might be led by these remarks that breeding Hares in an impossible endeavor; that is not true. You only have approach your breeding and raising activities with one thing in mind: maintaining a peaceful, serene, and healthy environment for your hares, and with a little luck and skill, your nest boxes can be filled with grand champions. Unexpected noises or voices seem to startle the Hares excessively and can set off a panic in the barn that can lead to injuries. A radio playing loudly 24 hours a day or a noisy exhaust fan seems to accustom the Hares to noise and avoids these panics. Classical music, mostly Mozart, seems to work for me, but I'm sure that it makes no difference to the Hares. Before throwing open the door to the barn, its always good practice to talk to your rabbits or make some noise to announce your arrival so that they will not be surprised by your entry. uses Belgian Hares are kept mainly for show purposes.  The Belgian Hare was mainly developed as a meat producing breed. Beautiful as they are, Belgian Hares are not the best choice for a beginning rabbit breeder.  The breed is known for delicate constitutions, flighty personalities, and limited fertility.  Teaching young hares to pose takes time and patience. However, experienced rabbit raisers can find great rewards in carrying on the legacy of such an important breed to the rabbit fancy.  One breeder named Shannon Kelly realized these rewards when her Hare won Best in Show at the Louisville ARBA Convention in 2008. While this breed can theoretically live indoors, indoor rabbits tend to be pets and this rabbit breed isn’t the best pet due to its nervousness. Sudden noises or unfamiliar sounds cause them jump high into the air and go into a running frenzy inside of their cage, where they could accidentally hurt themselves. While they do have a sweet nature and are known to enjoy petting (so long as they are used to the person’s presence and are not suddenly spooked), Belgian Hares are not the breed for everyone and are used mostly for show purposes. While they can be picked up, a lot of care needs to be taken to ensure that if they do get spooked, they don’t fall onto the floor.  Breeders use tricks to lower the risk of scaring their Belgian Hares by announcing their arrival before they open their barn doors, installing a loud fan inside the barn or playing loud music for the majority of the day. Training and Showing By Frank Zaloudek When you look at the picture of the Belgian Hare in the ARBA Standard of Perfection, your attention is immediately drawn to its pose, standing on the toes of its fully extended front legs, ears erect, body carried high above the floor and with a wild look in its eye. If you have been around Belgians for a while, you will learn that this is the pose it takes only when excited, startled or when it is eagerly anticipating food or drink. It is not a pose that it would take in a relaxed, non threatening situation or in the intimidating surroundings of the showroom. How do you get you Belgians to pose as it the picture? The simple answer is that they have to be trained! But, before we start our discussion of training Belgian Hares to pose, we first must note that there is nothing in the ARBA Standards of Perfection to guide us on how a Hare is to be posed or even if a Hare should be posed at all for judging! Indeed, some judges don't try to pose Hares, but rather just let them move about normally on the table or in special Judging cages if they are provided by the club sponsoring the show. However, most breeders and judges will agree that a Hare will show off its features best if posed in its "on alert" stance with its body carried high above the table on its tiptoes and with a wild expression in its eyes. The problem is that there are many ways an exhibitor can train a Hare to pose, and there are just as many ways that judges use to pose a Hare. If the Hare's training and the judges set-up technique "click", then it might be successfully posed; otherwise, the judging can degrade to a "wrestling match" ("acrobatics at a Halloween party" as characterized by the late Dr. Terry Reed) between the judge and the Hare during which time is wasted and the Hare, no matter how deserving, will be at a disadvantage to Hares that pose easily. How can these "wrestling matches" be avoided? Is it the responsibility of the judges, of the breeder/exhibitor, or both? Perhaps we can get some answers to these questions if we look at techniques used and advocated by some judges and breeder/exhibitors. There seems to be a number of basic methods in use at the present time. These methods can be characterized in the following descriptive terms: The "natural pose" method The "shoulder pressure" method "Ear lift" method "Head lift" method "Body stretch" method and combinations of the above. Training Hares to Pose By Maureen Hoyle I don't start training my hares until they are 10 weeks old. I was told that it is better to let their bones strengthen and I can see the sense in this. I am probably in a small minority who don't start training Hares from a young age. However I find that it is no hinderence to the speed they learn. I think you need a surface that they can grip onto. This sheet is not ideal but I think shows the sequence of improvement perfectly from the first one where she is pulling back and how she gradually relaxes along the sequence until she is posing beautifully. Club The first of these clubs was known as the "American Belgian Hare Association". With a wide and scattered membership the club lasted not much more than a year. In 1897 the "National Belgian Hare Club" was formed. Twelve years after the formation of the National Belgian Hare Club of America, and as additional breeds were introduced in the US, a new "all-breed" club, the "National Pet Stock Association" was formed. After several name changes, the National Pet Stock Association became the American Rabbit Breeders Association As years passed, the National Belgian Hare club of America also passed from existence. In June, 1972, a group of Belgian Hare breeders gathered together to apply for a specialty club charter from the American Rabbit Breeders Association to replace the National Belgian Hare Club of America. In July, 1972, the charter was granted and the last, and most prominent of these groups, the "American Belgian Hare Club" was established, that continues to exist to this day. A rather fancy type of domestic rabbit, the Belgian Hare was developed specifically to resemble the wild hare in appearance. The Belgian Hare is instantly recognisable thanks to its lithe body and long, slim legs. Due to its breeding the Belgian Hare is one of the more intelligent rabbit breeds and they are also very active, needing lots of exercise and plenty of opportunities to run and play. The breed is quite long-lived, with some examples living up to 10 years, and most animals weigh between six and nine pounds. The American Belgian Hare Club (ABHC) is dedicated to the raising, breeding, promoting, and showing of Belgian Hare rabbits. The ABHC is sanctioned under the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) and includes 90+ members in 25 states, as well as Canada and the United Kingdom. The Belgian Hare is one of the oldest breeds in America, dating back to the 1880’s. Today the Belgian Hare is one of the rarer rabbit breeds, and is considered threatened, according to the American Livestock Breed Conservancy. Today, Belgian Hare continues to be one of the less popular rabbits in America, because, in part, they are difficult to breed successfully. Three centuries of various degrees of line breeding have diminished their hybrid vigor, and, today, too few breeders pursuing too few bloodlines have further exacerbated the situation. Raising Belgian Hares involves a lot of hard work, expert animal husbandry practices, and a lot of luck! The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership.  Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy.  With over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, its members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial rabbit raiser with several hundred animals.  Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry, whether it be for fancy, as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by the organization. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Originally founded as The Beveren Club in 1918, its name first changed to British Fur Rabbit Society and finally to The British Rabbit Society. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Owners of house rabbits are also encouraged to join the organization to learn how to care optimally for their pets. Have I Missed Anything? If you know something about the breed standard, history or status of this rabbit, please let me know.   Do You Have a Story About This Particular Breed?  What do you love about them? Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make this breed happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of this type of rabbit. Let us know, and maybe we can set up an interview? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belgian_Hare http://www.belgianhareclub.com/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/belgian-hare-rabbits https://livestockconservancy.org/index.php/heritage/internal/belgian-hare http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/belgian-hare/ http://www.roysfarm.com/belgian-hare/ https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/breeds/rabbits/belgian-hares/ http://petcaretips.net/belgian-hares.html Plant of the Week: Cabbage Word of the Week: Common

Now I would like to remind you that if you are enjoying the podcast, you can donate through Patreon for as little as one dollar a month. You donation will help to cover the expenses of hosting for the podcast.   Just Visit http://www.hareoftherabbit.com On this weeks episode, we cove the American Sable rabbit, the news, the word Admire and plant of the week: Lettuce, as well as another rabbit folk tale - Rabbit gets his split lip.   I would like to thank you for taking the time to listen to me today. American Sable Rabbit Information and History The American Sable is one of those little-known breeds that is actually very handsome and useful.   Sable rabbits were discovered in chinchilla rabbit litters separately in California and in England, and developed concurrently within their separate breeding lines on both sides of the world.  Recessive genes in the Chinchilla lines produced an entirely new colour, with a body shape that remained identical to the Chinchilla itself. The very first Sable rabbits are believed to have cropped up in the herd of Mr. David Irving, an Englishman who lived near Liverpool.   He had imported some Chinchilla rabbits from France in the mid-1910s.  The Chinchilla breed was itself still showing evidence of its newness in the various sports seen in the early litters. Shaded brown rabbits, as well as martin-patterned sports, could be found in the nestbox now and again.   The sepia-shaded bunnies in Mr. Irving’s nestboxes invariably landed in the stew pot, because he was focused on the Chinchilla color.  But there were other English breeders who were smitten by the cute-as-buttons sports.  They bred these brown rabbits together just to see what would happen.  What happened was, if the genetics were just right, they could produce more of these very attractive rabbits.   Although the color didn’t entirely breed true - it was never the only color in the nestbox - they could still standardize the type and medium sable hue of the rabbits.  Mr. Irving was instrumental in the spread of Sable rabbits, as they were eventually called, throughout Europe.   Now across the pond as they say, for the American Sables in the USA This American rabbit breed was developed independently from the Sable breed known in England in the early 1900’s.   In California in 1924, Mr. Otto Brock of San Gabriel, California, found the first shaded brown rabbits in the nestboxes of his ‘purebred’ Chinchilla rabbits. The rest of the story of American sable rabbits in California reads much as it did with the breeders in England. At first there were three different color variations among the Sables. There was a lighter brown, a medium brown, and one with tan markings. Of these three color phases, the light and medium browns were bred together to arrive a medium color, brown rabbit with darker points and the tan-patterned was developed into a separate breed called the Silver Sable Marten. With the exception of a few things, the American Sable is identical to the Siamese Sable and Sable Marten of England. The American Sable is slightly larger at an average of eight pounds of a senior buck and nine pounds for a senior doe. In England, the sizes run about two pounds smaller. The Siamese Sable is also shown in Light, Medium and Dark while in the United States, only the Medium color phase is recognized by the ARBA, the American Rabbit Breeders Association. In 1929, the American Sable Rabbit Society was formed. They named the new breed the American Sable, and called for medium-colored shading. The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) recognized the breed in 1931. Included were medium-shaded Sables, and the lighter Siamese Sables.  Tan-patterned (marten) sables were also occurring in the US, however instead of recognizing them under the umbrella of the American Sable, they were called Silver Sable Martens, and these were accepted as a new variety of Silver Marten rabbits. After the great start to a challenging breed, the sables did not fare so well, at least in the United States.  The breed never truly caught the fancy of the rabbit breeding community. Like so many breeds, the American Sable got off to a great start.  However, as more new breeds of rabbits were developed, the Sable fell by the wayside.   By 1976, numbers of the Siamese Sable variety bottomed out. The variety was eliminated. Every year the ARBA has a National Convention where thousands of rabbits are shown from all over the world. All of the recognized breeds are shown as well as breeds that are in the process of trying to be recognized as a breed. When only one American Sable was shown at the Convention, it was a wake-up call that the breed was in danger of disappearing. The lone exhibitor, Al Roerdanz, was determined that the breed was not going to die out. After searching the United States, he was able to obtain seven more American Sables. He then imported a trio of Sables from England to breed to the rabbits he already had. Because of the small gene pool, Roerdanz introduced several other breeds to his existing herd of Sables. He added Californians, Chinchillas, and Sable Silver Martens, among other breeds to bring back his breed. Adding the Californians and Chinchillas was not as strange as you might think. The Sable originated from the Chinchillas and so did the Californian breed. Each breed that was added in to the breed was added for a specific reason.     In 1982, numbers of Sables were so low that Mr. Al Roerdanz of Ohio and a few other breeders had to literally re-build the breed. Through the efforts of Al Roerdanz of Kingsville, Ohio, seven purebred American Sables were located and used to revive the breed and increase numbers of animals.  They also used British imports and the injection of new blood mainly via Sable Silver Martens, Sable Rex, Havanas, Californians, and Standard Chinchilla.I  n 1982 Mr. Roerdanz along with several American Sable fanciers formed the American Sable Rabbit Society, which included 13 charter members. That year the breed reached the required quota of animals shown to retain recognition of breed status in the Standard of Perfection, according to ARBA rules, thus saving the breed from extinction.  At the 1983 ARBA National Convention, breed numbers were sufficient to retain the American Sable rabbit breed in the Sable variety. The American Sable is still rare, however not listed as endangered The American Sable has regular commercial type, but is slightly smaller than other commercial breeds such as the Satin or Californian.   It has commercial body type and is suitable for 4-H meat pen project, if you’d like to try something different from the usual Cal’s and New Zealands.  The fur is a rollback.  The namesake feature of this breed is its lovely sable color.  The back of the rabbit is rich sepia brown, which lightens on the rabbit’s sides and darkens to nearly black on the nose, ears, feet, and tail.  This breed is not very popular, but not in imminent danger of extinction thanks to a community of breeders who call themselves “Sablers.” The American Sable rabbit has a commercial-sized body which weights anywhere from 8-10 lbs., with males usually weighing slightly less than the females. These rabbits have a rounded head with vertical, upright ears. The head is rounded, with ears that are held upright and the topline creates a long curve, from the bottom of the neck to the base of the tail. The American Sable rabbit enjoys gentle petting on its back and between its ears. The American Sable rabbit has soft, fine, dense coat that requires more grooming that the average short-haired rabbit, but less than long-haired rabbit breeds like Angoras. Because their coat is so thick, they will definitely shed more during moulting periods. Owners need to be prepared for regular brushings during these heavy shedding periods, especially if your American Sable is an indoor rabbit. Simply groom your rabbit with a slicker brush outdoors 1-2 times per week as necessary during shedding season, and once every two weeks during off-season times. The American Sable rabbit only comes in one color that is accepted by the ARBA. Their head, feet, ears, back and top of tail are a dark sepia color, while the rest of their coat fades to a lighter tan, like a Siamese cat. The Sable coloration is caused by a gene called “chinchilla light,” symbolized by cchl or cch1.  This gene is incompletely dominant over the two below it (Himalayan and REW.)  When a rabbit has two copies of cchl, it looks so dark brown as to be almost black.  This color is called seal.  A correctly colored sable has one copy of cchl and one copy of a lower C-series allele: Himalayan or REW.   Therefore, breeding two correctly colored sables can result in seal, Himalayan, or ruby-eyed white offspring.   The non-showable colors are useful to a breeding program, however, because breeding a seal to a himie or REW will result in 100% correct sables.  Some breeders have crossed Californians (Himalayan-colored breed) into their American Sables to improve type and add some genetic diversity.  As is the case with any crossbreeding project, you will find some people for and others strongly against this practice. American Sables have soft, fine, dense coat that requires more grooming that the average short-haired rabbit. The head, feet, ears, back, and top of the tail are a dark sepia, while the coat fades to a lighter tan over the rest of the body, similar to the coloring of a Siamese cat. The breed's eyes are usually dark with a ruby hue. The eyes are dark but because of a recessive albino gene, the pupils reflect a ruby reddish glow. Kits are born white, silver, or gray.   This extraordinary breed has brown eyes that will appear red when reflected by light. This rabbit carries an albino gene which causes this red glow and also why some kits are born white. Let’s take a closer peek on how the breeders achieved this kind of coloration for the sables. A gene that is called ‘chinchilla light’, which is symbolized by cchl or cch1, causes the coloration of American Sable. This gene, being incompletely dominant over the Himalayan and REW gene, which are below the chinchilla light, causes the darkish brown coloring of the rabbit. It’s so dark that it’s almost black already. This color that stands between dark brown and black is called seal. Ideally, an American Sable with a correct coloring has one copy of cchl and one of either the Himalayan and REW. This also means that for a successful breeding of two correctly colored American Sables, a breeder can achieve a seal, Himalayan or ruby-eyed white offspring A perfectly colored Sable is difficult to produce. Any blotchiness of shading –which can be easily caused by sunburn or molt — is a fault.  The eyes must possess a ruby glow to avoid disqualification on the show table.  A white toenail is also cause for disqualification. There are 4 color variations that possibly will be in an American Sable nest box. 1) Seal which has 2 copies of the c(chl) gene giving it a dark coloration - almost black color. 2) Sable (sometimes referred to as Siamese), this is the accepted show color. 3) Pointed white - Californian or Himi marked - has 2 copies of the ch gene or a ch gene and a c gene. 4) Albino (REW). Breeding a Seal to a Pointed White or an Albino will produce a litter of all show colored Sable. Some kits born white can turn to the gray color which usually occurs 3 days after birth. Those born with the silver-grayish coat are those used for showing. The fur is silky and fine but has coarser guard hairs. The Sable will change colors for many weeks after birth and will begin to molt at approximately 4 months of age. Breeders prefer to keep their Sables in cooler environments and shaded as the heat and sun can cause the sable coloring to lighten. The Standard of Perfection describes the gradations of shading without actually specifying the intensity of hue, other than the "rich sepia brown on the ears, face, back, legs, and upper side of the tail." Weights: Senior Bucks: 7-9 lb: 3.2 – 4.5kg Senior Does: 8-10 lb The UK’s national organization, the British Rabbit Council (BRC), lists their breeds as the Marten Sable and the Siamese Sable. Weights for both varieties: 5-7 lb (2.26 - 3.17 kg) In the UK, both Marten Sables and Siamese Sables come in Light, Medium and Dark shading, the main differences being "width of saddle, in tone and intensity of sepia colours." Judges are instructed to "award the appropriate number of points for shadings and penalise those exhibits which lack shadings, i.e. are self coloured" (BRC-Marten Sables). Care Requirements An American Sable’s diet is like any other rabbits in that it should consist mainly of hay (70 percent), while the rest should be a healthy mix of pellets, leafy greens, fruits, and vegetables. Limit the amount of fruits that are high in sugar. Make sure to stay clear of iceberg lettuce, as it contains too much water and too little fiber to count as a good meal. Fresh pellets should also be made available daily – choose a pellet high in fiber and avoid mixes that include other foods like corn, seeds, or dried fruit. Fresh foods are also an important part of your rabbit’s diet. Dark, leafy greens like kale, romaine lettuce, spring greens, and some spinach should make up approximately 75% of the fresh food given to your rabbit daily, with vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, bell pepper, and summer squash making up the other 25%. Fruits and starchy vegetables should be limited in the diet, but make great treats! Make sure that all fresh foods are washed thoroughly, and uneaten fresh foods should be removed at the end of the day. Fresh water should always be available, either from a sipper bottle or in a stable water bowl. Do not feed your rabbit yard clippings as grass is usually treated with fertilizer, insecticides, pesticides, and other chemicals that can harm your rabbit. Always research, and/or ask your veterinarian about your rabbit’s diet. When it comes to enclosures, this particular rabbit breed can live in either an indoor or outdoor enclosure, so long as they are not exposed to extreme weather temperatures or conditions. Outdoor enclosures need to be raised off the ground to protect them from predators such as racoons, coyotes, wolves, and should be made of wood or metal. A good rule is one square foot per pound of rabbit, so a nine pound rabbit will be comfortable in a hutch that’s 3ft x 3ft – double it if you have two bunnies. It should also be high enough for him to stand up in. The hutch should be placed in a sheltered area and it must be completely weatherproof. The top should be covered from the elements and depending on where you live, it may need to have 3/4 sides covered to protect them from extreme snow and allow air circulation. Indoor enclosures should be made of wire and have a metal or plastic bottom to allow bedding to be laid (wire bottoms are not comfortable for long periods of time and are taxing on your rabbit’s feet). The bedding needs to be spot-cleaned every day and completely replaced at the end of every week. Health issues? American Sables are energetic rabbits who will happily run round inside or out.  All rabbits are susceptible to developing overgrown teeth – the American Sable is no different. This problem is caused by a diet that lacks a proper balance of hay, which is used to slowly grind down teeth naturally. Overgrown teeth can grow into a rabbit’s jaw and face. In order to prevent this condition, make sure to check your rabbit’s mouth regularly for overgrown teeth and always make sure they have a proper diet consisting of mostly hay. Ears should also be checked periodically for ear mites, especially for rabbits who spend most of their time outside. Like most rabbit breeds, the Sable can suffer with a number of health conditions that any responsible owner should look out for and prevent if possible. No rabbit should be housed in quarters with a mesh floors unless they are provided with a resting board. The mesh can wear away the protective fur on the ends of the feet –the hocks – which will in turn expose the delicate skin underneath. This can become raw and broken and causes great discomfort and even infection. The rabbit must be monitored for symptoms of flystrike – particularly in the warmer months. He shouldn’t be allowed to become overweight and unable to groom himself as this will make him susceptible to flystrike. Temperament/Behavior The American Sable rabbit enjoys gentle petting on its back and between its ears.  In order for your rabbit’s personality to flourish, American Sables need to have plenty of time outside of their enclosures.   This attractive rabbit has an equally attractive personality: friendly, mellow, and calm.  American Sables are energetic rabbits who will happily run round inside or out, and once they’ve been tuckered out, will enjoy the company of their human.  They make great pets for singles, couples or families with children, and can live in apartments or homes with or without backyards.  They also can make wonderful companions for seniors.  Most Sable rabbits are placid and friendly (although it must me noted there can be aggressive animals in any breed) and make great pets. They seem to enjoy the company of other pets and will relish having a rabbit friend to lark about with. They also thoroughly enjoy the company of humans and will enjoy playtime immensely. The American Sable enjoys the company of other rabbits. It is generally docile, spending most of the day sleeping. Typically they enjoy the companionship of their owner, but on their own terms. When distressed, the American Sable will make a grunting noise or will, like many other breeds, thump its back foot on the ground in an attempt to scare whatever it is that is bothering them. Rabbits tend to be a little harder to litter train than other animals such as cats and dogs, but it is possible.  Unlike cats, rabbits may need to have a few litter boxes spread out across the house. Rabbits have unique and dynamic personalities and can form close, loving bonds with their owners. Many can be trained to use a litterbox, come when called, and may even enjoy learning tricks. Coupled with the fact that they’re quiet, require relatively little space, and are very low odor, it’s not hard to see why rabbits have become the third most popular pet in the United States and Great Britain. Rabbits May be a poor choice as a pet for young children. They may be soft and cute, but rabbits are easily stressed and frightened around loud noises and activity. Many rabbits do not enjoy being held or cuddled and may bite or kick to get away, and rabbits or the handler can easily be seriously injured in such a struggle. The American Sable rabbit is a meat rabbit breed. They have good body size and very suitable for commercial meat production. With proper care these small animals make excellent and adorable pets. The British Sable Rabbit Club was established in November, 1927, and the British Fur Rabbit Society accepted Sables in both Marten and Siamese varieties. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Originally founded as The Beveren Club in 1918, its name first changed to British Fur Rabbit Society and finally to The British Rabbit Society. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Owners of house rabbits are also encouraged to join the organization to learn how to care optimally for their pets.  The American Sable Rabbit Association was founded in 1929 and the breed was accepted by the American Rabbit Breeder’s Association (ARBA) two years later in 1931.  The American Sable is a rabbit breed recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA).  This is a tricky one for ARBA royalty participants, who must remember that although a fairly large rabbit, it is actually a four-class breed.  From what I could tell, the Royalty contest is for youth to compete on multiple levels.   The darkest period in the breed’s history was in the early eighties, when it would have probably been dropped from the ARBA standard if not for the dedicated effort of an Ohio breeder, Al Roerdanz.  Ohio remains one of the strongholds of the American Sable today.  According to the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) report in 2005, there are 500 to 800 American Sables in the United States. The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership.  Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy.  With over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, its members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial rabbit raiser with several hundred animals.  Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry, whether it be for fancy, as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by the organization. Once bred for its fur and meat, the American Sable has made a tremendous comeback over the last 30 years. This is due to determined breeders who refused to let this breed die out, so that future generations can still appreciate the American Sable not only in the show ring but as a loving companion. The American Sable is 1 of 16 breeds that are considered endangered in the United States.  While the American Sable is still around today, it is on the rare rabbit list at number 10. It is a strikingly beautiful rabbit and it would be a real loss to have this breed fade out. If you are interested in helping to save this beautiful breed, visit a rabbit show to learn more about them. http://rabbitbreeders.us/american-sable-rabbits http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/american-sable-rabbit/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Sable_rabbit http://www.raising-rabbits.com/american-sable-rabbit.html http://www.pets4homes.co.uk/breeds/rabbits/sable/ https://rightpet.com/breed-species/small-exotic-mammal/rabbits/american-sable-rabbit https://mysmelly.com/content/small_animals/american-sable.htm http://www.albc-usa.org/cpl/americansable.html http://mosaicrabbitry.weebly.com/american-sable.html http://knowledgebase.lookseek.com/American-Sable-Rabbit.html http://www.hotots-satins.com/as.html http://www.second-opinion-doc.com/the-american-sable-rabbit.html http://www.roysfarm.com/american-sable-rabbit/ http://www.second-opinion-doc.com/rabbit-breed-profile-american-sable.html http://www.adoptarabbit.com/breeds/american-sable/ How Rabbit Came by His Split Lip http://umaine.edu/folklife/publications/northeast-folklore-2/passamaquoddy-tales/#Rabbit Note: All of the following tales were found among the E. Tappan Adney Manuscripts in the Peabody Museum, Salem, Massachusetts. All of them were collected by Adney from Governor William Neptune of Pleasant Point Reservation, Maine, in the early 1940’s. Some of the manuscripts were in hurried pencil script, clearly Adney’s own field notes; others were in typescript but appear to be no more than typed-out field notes; still others had obviously been worked over. One Sunday Rabbit start cruisin’ around. By and by see wigwam. It was Kingfisher, and he said, “Come in.” They talk and talk; by and by dinner time. Kingfisher went up brook and dive down [and] ketch big fish. Rabbit say, “Nice dinner.” [That] afternoon, Rabbit say to Kingfisher, “Come see me.” One Sunday Kingfisher come up and find [Rabbit’s] wigwam. Rabbit say, “Come in.” They talked a while. By and by, [Rabbit get] all rigged. [8] A spruce tree lean out over stream. It pretty near dinner time and he walk up tree and, lookin down, he said he’d do same as Kingfisher. By and By Rabbit dove down [and] struck [a] rock and split his lip. Kingfisher heard him call for help. He nearly drown. That’s how Rabbit got split lip. This old Indian story. News! New Orleans Fire Department Captain Ross Hennessey will receive the House Rabbit Society's inaugural Amy Espie Hero Award Sunday (March 19) after he rescued a lop rabbit named Pierre from a house fire in New Orleans last November. Wilborn P. Nobles III, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune New Orleans Fire Department Captain Ross Hennessey was amazed when a lop rabbit named Pierre regained consciousness moments after he rescued the bunny from an Uptown house fire last year. The firefighter said Pierre survived because he was on the floor, and "the difference between the floor and five feet above the floor might be 300 degrees." Hennessey's actions will be honored Sunday (March 19) as the House Rabbit Society plans to give Hennessey its first-ever Amy Espie Hero Award. The nonprofit's award commemorates those who do something extraordinary to help rabbits. The organization's executive director, Anne Martin, said Wednesday that the captain's actions exemplified their award. The incident occurred on Nov. 28, 2016. Neighbors noticed a fire at the home on Calhoun Street, Hennessey said Thursday. Authorities arrived to find the top half of the house ablaze, and the neighbors told firefighters a rabbit was inside. Firefighters extinguished the flames and went through the house before they a saw cage in the corner. He went over to the rabbit and gave him a nudge when the animal suddenly moved. That's when Hennessey said "Damn, I think this rabbit's still alive." The SPCA gave the department an animal resuscitation kit several years ago that authorities had yet to use, Hennessey said. He decided to put it to use on Pierre after he brought the rabbit outside. Hennessey said Pierre "popped back up" moments after the kit delivered oxygen to the rabbit. A Tulane student who owned the rabbit managed to escape earlier and was not on scene when Pierre was rescued, he said. http://www.masslive.com/news/index.ssf/2017/03/la_fire_captain_rescues_bunny.html FARMINGTON — The city of Farmington is considering allowing residents to keep up to six chickens or rabbits on residential property. The City Council will discuss changing the code to allow chickens or rabbits during its 6 p.m. March 28 meeting at 800 Municipal Drive in Farmington. City Planner Cindy Lopez explained the number of animals was calculated using the current codes for dogs and cats, and the size of the smallest residential lots in Farmington. She said the code allows for four dogs or four cats or a combination of cats and dogs adding up to four. Currently, any city resident who wants to keep chickens or rabbits has to apply for a special-use permit. The city charges an $80 fee to process those permits and requires the applicant to go to a title company to acquire a list of nearby properties so the city can ask the neighbors for comments. That can cost residents hundreds of dollars, Lopez said during a Planning and Zoning Commission meeting Thursday. Many people who have applied for the special-use permits already have acquired chickens or rabbits without realizing it is against code. http://www.daily-times.com/story/news/local/farmington/2017/03/17/city-may-let-residents-keep-chickens-rabbits/99276864/ County ends slaughter ban in code update By Samantha Kimmey 03/16/2017 The Board of Supervisors unanimously lifted a 14-year ban on commercial animal slaughter and expanded size limits for second units on residential properties in Marin. The changes to the development code were among a suite of others  approved on Tuesday. Much of the three-hour hearing that preceded the supervisors’ vote, which followed a series of planning commission workshops and a planning commission hearing, was consumed by public comment on the animal slaughter proposal. Numerous people concerned about animal rights, the environment and property values pled with supervisors to keep the prohibition on commercial slaughter, which has been in place since 2003. But ranchers and agriculture advocates also came out to support the change, arguing that local slaughter is both more humane and in line with consumer demand that all elements of food production be as local as possible. Supervisors largely approved the planning commission versions of the code updates, which will not affect the coastal zone at this time. But they made a few notable amendments. For instance, they expanded allowable rabbit slaughter from only mobile facilities to both mobile and small-scale facilities, despite public outcry from a group called SaveABunny, which stressed that rabbits are companions and pets. A Mill Valley real estate agent with Sotheby’s International Realty, Cindy Shelton, said that lifting the ban would result in a “real estate nightmare” because it would have to be disclosed to buyers. Rabbit advocates also spoke, urging supervisors to prohibit their slaughter under the logic that they are considered companions and pets. The executive director of SaveABunny, Marcy Schaaf, expressed frustration that her group was “lumped” with other activists, like vegans. Numerous ranchers and agriculture advocates stressed the importance of allowing commercial slaughter. “It’s really important to have that option on the table,” said Loren Poncia, who ranches in Tomales. Kelli Dunaj, who has run a ranch in Marshall since 2013, said it was “unfair and hypocritical” to bring up the “bogeyman like property values” to try to stop the proposal. Landscapes, she went on, are “not just eye candy,” but working agricultural fields. Rebecca Burgess, executive director of a group of farmers and artisans called Fibershed, said her group’s mission of sourcing local fiber like wool also means supporting growing animals like sheep for meat. “To develop a sustainable fiber system, we need a sustaining food system,” she said. When public comment ended and the meeting turned back over to supervisors, some of their amendments, like allowing both accessory dwelling units and junior units, were easily agreed on. But they seemed on the fence about how to handle rabbit slaughter. Rabbit advocates had argued that there was little demand for rabbit meat, pointing to Whole Foods, which stopped selling it in early 2016. But when the board asked David Lewis of the University of California Cooperative Extension, he estimated that Marin had between five to 10 rabbit meat producers and that “demand is higher” than supply. Supervisor Damon Connelly indicated that he would support banning rabbit slaughter. Supervisor Katie Rice, who said she did not eat rabbit meat, said she believed that supporting agriculture meant supporting a “farm to table” system. She also said that if supervisors truly believe that slaughter is more humane when done more locally, it seemed improper to force rabbit meat producers to send their animals for slaughter elsewhere. https://www.ptreyeslight.com/article/county-ends-slaughter-ban-code-update The European Parliament is urging the European Commission to adopt measures that would make life better for more than 340 million rabbits raised for food every year in Europe. The parliament voted overwhelmingly Tuesday to recommend outlawing battery cages for rabbits — tiny enclosures with wire-mesh floors no bigger than ordinary letter-size pieces of paper. Animal welfare groups say rabbits are extremely sensitive animals who suffer terribly in such small spaces, with such problems as open, infected wounds, respiratory disease and even cannibalism as the frustrated animals turn against one another. Humane regulations already exist for pigs, cattle and chickens raised for food, but not rabbits. European Consumer Affairs Commissioner Vera Jourova said such standards for rabbits should not be an EU-wide concern but one for individual states. http://www.voanews.com/a/european-parliament-calls-humane-treatment-rabbits-raised-food/3766462.html INFORMATION is being sought after the theft of three pet rabbits in Tadley. On March 12, between 11am-2pm, thieves entered the front garden of the property in Swains Close and stole three rabbits from their hutches. One of the rabbits is described as large, and beige in colour. The other is a motley grey coloured lion head rabbit and the last one is also a lion head rabbit, which is descried as black in colour with very long hair. If you have seen the rabbits, or have any information, then you can get in contact with the police on 101 with the reference number 44170093121. http://www.basingstokegazette.co.uk/news/15151928.Information_appeal_after_rabbits_stolen_in_Tadley/ Japan loves its different types of bread. Melon bread, pork buns, and several other types of the delicious baked goods are well-loved in the country, as is “usagi pan,” or rabbit bread. Bakers have long created rabbit-shaped bread for some time, but there’s a new version of the rabbit-related bread in town. It can be found at a Tokyo bakery, and it’s an entire loaf that’s shaped like a bunny. That means when you slice it into individual pieces of bread; you get the perfect bunny shaped bread for yummy sandwiches! Just make sure there’s a lot of lettuce on it, for bunnies! The bakery itself is named Lepus as a reference to the rabbit constellation, which is a clever take. The bakery’s rabbit bread loaves are absolutely adorable, and practically begging you to make some particularly adorable creations with. The bakery creates about 24-32 bunny loaves each day, but now Bakery Usagi-za Lepus is seeing a surge in customers wanting the bunny loaves. That means the bakery is probably working overtime to make sure you all get the bunny bread you want and deserve! https://www.geek.com/culture/this-bunny-shaped-bread-in-japan-looks-delicious-and-cute-1692050/  A decades-old Main Line tree stump carved into a family of rabbits has been taken down. But don't worry,  a new improved version will take its place in about a month or so. Last week, crews removed the tree that sat on the former Haas mansion property at County Line at Spring Mill roads in Villanova, after it was found to be deteriorating, Main Line Media News reported. The local landmark, carved by sculptor Marty Long, was known for its festive seasonal decorations. The seven carved bunnies, which represented the members of the Haas family, were often decked out in sporty sunglasses or holding Easter baskets with colorful eggs. The Haas surname derives from the Dutch or German word for hare, according to Ancestry.com. After the Haas parents died, the family donated the 42-acre property to the Natural Lands Trust. The grounds are being converted to public open space and are expected to be completed in about a year, the paper reported. Natural Lands Trust, which now owns the Stoneleigh estate property where the rabbits stood, have commissioned Long to make a new sculpture, the paper reported. The wooden rabbits have been removed and inspected, and if possible the group plans to put some of them on display inside the Stoneleigh mansion, Kirsten Werner, director of communications with the Natural Lands Trust, told the paper. http://www.philly.com/philly/blogs/real-time/Villanova-bunny-tree-removed-Haas-mansion-Stoneleigh.html A California couple who hold the Guinness world record for most bunny-related items now have so much rabbit stuff, they're packing up their floppy-hoppy collection and moving to to a bigger house. Candace Frazee and her husband Steve Lubanski run The Bunny Museum out of their home in Pasadena, Calif., where they house more than 33,000 rabbit-related knick-knacks, as well as six actual rabbits and some cats. Now the self-described "hoppiest place on Earth" is moving to a bigger location in nearby Altadena, set to open with a "grand hoppenin'" on March 20. http://www.cbc.ca/radio/asithappens/as-it-happens-monday-edition-1.4011751/bunny-museum-owners-have-so-much-stuff-they-re-hopping-to-a-bigger-space-1.4011761 A series of rabbit holes in an England farmer's field led to a mysterious underground cave, believed to be centuries old. Historic England described the Caynton Caves in Shropshire as a "grotto" that likely dated back to the late 18th or early 19th century and included "neo-Norman decoration to bays between columns, one neo-Norman doorway with beak-heads and roll moulding; decorative quatrefoils and designs abound." http://www.upi.com/Odd_News/2017/03/09/Rabbit-hole-in-England-farmers-field-leads-to-700-year-old-caves/6411489071679/  You may have heard of cat yoga or dog yoga, but now a Vancouver university is hosting bunny yoga.  Rabbits were recently added to some yoga classes at Simon Fraser University’s Burnaby campus. The idea was to help the participants relax and raise money for the Small Animal Rescue Society of B.C. The bunnies roamed free on the yoga mats as participants went through poses during hour-long classes. Participants were allowed to pet or hold the bunnies during the class. The yoga bunnies are available for adoption. http://www.ctvnews.ca/lifestyle/downward-rabbit-bunny-yoga-lands-at-b-c-campus-1.3304440

Blue of Saint Niklass - Vampire Rabbit - Hemlock - Heart - Tale of Rabbit And The Dancing Turkeys Feel free to visit the website: http://www.hareoftherabbit.com/ If you would like to support the podcast either visit the link for Amazon, then make your purchases as normal.  I cannot see who purchases what, but a small percentage of your purchase will benefit the podcast: https://www.amazon.com/?&tag=haroftherab-20&camp=228761&creative=536025&linkCode=ur1&adid=0Z1J5SZGFHE81DASKT78& Or you can donate to the podcast at: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=4748024 Today we are going to explore the Blue of Saint Niklass rabbit Breed, the history, The Vampire Rabbit, Hemlock, Heart, and Tale of Rabbit And The Dancing Turkeys. History The history of this beauty is a bit unusual. The Blue of Sint-Niklaas is one of the oldest rabbit breeds in the world. The Blue of Sint-Niklaas breed of rabbit originated in the Flemish city of Sint-Niklaas.  Being bred since the nineteenth century, this rabbit breed is only recognized as being in the “Blue” category.  Blue of Sint-NiklaasBlue of Sint-Niklaas (Dutch:Blauw van Sint-Niklaas) is a Flemish rabbit breed.  It has been bred since the 19th century, near the city of Sint-Niklaas, to supply the local fur-industry, and is thereby one of the oldest fur-rabbit breeds of the world.  The Van Beveren, also a fur-rabbit breed, is family and has been bred in the same region of Flanders, the Waasland.  I covered the Beveren in another episode, which led me to the Blue of Sint-Niklass. These little blue beauties were a hot commodity when fur trade was still going strong in that area.  Many of these little, beauties lost their lives for their meat and pelts. Originally, they were identical to the Blue van Beveren and also showed their typical mandolin -shaped physique.  Which rabbit breeds except the van Beveren still were involved in the origin of the breed is not known, the size of the breed suggests that giant rabbits were used for breeding out.  From the van Beveren, the blue of St. Niklaas originally distinguished by the white markings that were required at the beginning of the 20th century in the form of a forehead blaze.  However, since it had not been possible to achieve this badge homozygous, the standard was amended in 1917, that the animals were required color.  The sister race van Beveren has a distinctly different body shape and is slightly darker in color.   The Blue of Vienna St. Niklaas. was especially bred for fur rabbits and was known for her coat quality.  With the decline of the fur industry, the spread of the Blue of St. Niklaas decreased.  The popularity of the breed decreased with the disappearance of the fur trade in the early 20th century.   After the decrease of pelt-saling and fur-industries in the region (and the world) the breed became almost extinct, as it was not popular as a pet or meat-rabbit.  Only a few European breeders in Belgium and France are left.   There are few breeders left of Blue of Sint-Niklaas bunnies.  The Blue of Sint-Niklaas rabbits are now very rare and possibly close to extinction. 1. Flanders – Flanders is the Dutch-speaking northern portion of Belgium, although there are several overlapping definitions, including ones related to culture, language, politics and history. It is one of the communities, regions and language areas of Belgium. The demonym associated with Flanders is Fleming, while the corresponding adjective is Flemish. In historical contexts, Flanders originally refers to the County of Flanders, which around AD 1000 stretched from the Strait of Dover to the Scheldt estuary. In accordance with late 20th century Belgian state reforms the area was made into two political entities: the "Flemish Community" and the "Flemish Region". These entities were merged, although geographically the Flemish Community, which has a broader cultural mandate, covers Brussels, whereas the Flemish Region does not. Flanders has figured prominently in European history. As a consequence, a very sophisticated culture developed, with impressive achievements in the arts and architecture, rivaling those of northern Italy. Belgium was one of the centres of the 19th century industrial revolution but Flanders was at first overtaken by French-speaking Wallonia. In the second half of the 20th century, however, Flanders' economy modernised rapidly, today Flanders is significantly more wealthy than its southern counterpart. Geographically, Flanders is generally flat, has a small section of coast on the North Sea. Much of Flanders is agriculturally fertile and densely populated, with a population density of almost 500 people per square kilometer. It touches France to the west near the coast, borders the Netherlands to the north and east, Wallonia to the south. The Brussels Capital Region is an enclave within the Flemish Region. It comprises 6.5 million Belgians who consider Dutch to be their mother tongue.   Flanders – The Sack of Antwerp in 1576, in which about 7,000 people died.   Flanders – Flag   Flanders – Winter scene by Sebastian Vrancx, 1622   Flanders – 1609 map of the county of Flanders 2. Sint-Niklaas – Sint-Niklaas is a Belgian city and municipality located in the Flemish province of East Flanders. The municipality comprises the towns of Belsele, Nieuwkerken-Waas, Sinaai. Sint-Niklaas is the capital and major city of the Waasland region straddling the East Flanders and Antwerp provinces. The city is known for having the largest square in Belgium. At one point this square also boasted the largest easter egg in Europe. Belsele was already mentioned in a 9th-century document. The new parish was to depend until the middle of the 16th century. However, it was part of the County of Flanders. The power of Flanders at that time favoured the economic development of the city, which became the administrative centre of the region in 1241. The city was never walled, which made an easy target for conquest. In 1381, it was engulfed by plundered. However, the central location of Sint-Niklaas between Ghent and Antwerp, far from the Scheldt, favoured further development. By 1513, Emperor Maximilian had granted the right to hold a weekly market. Around 1580, the church of Saint Nicholas suffered heavy damage from roving iconoclasts. The 17th century was generally a period of prosperity, marked by economic growth, mostly in the wool industries.   Sint-Niklaas – Sint-Niklaas   Sint-Niklaas – Sint-Niklaas Town Hall   Sint-Niklaas – Church of Our Lady Overall Description Body Size-They can grow to an average of 10 to 12 pounds (5.4 kg). They are large in size similar to the Flemish Giant breed (which can grow to a whopping 15 pounds).   Stature-The Blue of Sin-Niklaas is a generally “meaty-looking,” plump rabbit. Unlike wild rabbits, this breed tends to have chunky body, head and legs. Wilder rabbits tend to be lean with thinner legs. The weight of the animals is 4.5-6 kg, with an ideal of 5.5 kg. The body is stocky and cylindrical, viewed from above, the animals should act rectangular. The 14-16 cm long ears are worn V-shaped. The coat color of the breed is a very bright, steady blue. The eyes are blue-gray, the claw horn color. The breed is not allowed in Germany. ears and eyes Coat Coat-This rare breed of bunny, as imagined, has a beautiful coat. It is a thick, lush coat that is sometimes a creamy gray or bluish color. It would be hard for any rabbit breeder or bunny fanatic not to be able to identify this breed. The special color of the coat could be due to a unique mutation. Originally, the (Blue) Van Beveren and St Nicholas Blue were considered the same breed. Now that has changed and these two varieties are kept well apart in terms of shape, size, weight and color. colors Since 1917, Blauwe Van Sint Niklaas rabbits have all been the uniform blue-grey uniform color. care Bunnies can make great pets, no matter which breed you pick.  However, before you run right out and grab a new furry buddy, do your research. Many people go out spontaneously (especially around Easter) to get a bunny. Yes, they are beautiful-but they do require upkeep. This upkeep can be time consuming and sometimes expensive. Be sure you are interested in the Blue of Sint-Niklaas because you genuinely want a pet to love and care for. Don’t let the Blue of Sint-Niklaas become part of a collection, a thing, just something you can say you have. Hopefully, you will choose your new, furry companion for the right reasons. He will give you companionship for years to come. diet Health Temperment/behavior If your Blue of Sint-Niklaas bunny is tame enough, he may be a good cuddler.  The Blue of Sint-Niklaas breed could make great “showbunnies” if you’re into bunny beauty contests. Blauwe Van Sint Niklaas rabbits are quiet, good-natured and friendly animal that enjoys a spacious hutch. uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use. The St. Nik rabbit is referred to as an “All-Purpose Rabbit” because it fulfills all four of these purposes.  It is a Multi-purpose rabbit, and It is a fine breed for either meat production or for showing, and they should also make for a great pet!  Even though this is a large breed of rabbit, they are gentle and easily handled. This makes them good for pets or show rabbits as well as meat production. Whether you’re looking for a furry, pal or a show pet, the Blue of Sint-Niklaas is truly grand.  Are you looking for a unique and fuzzy pet? How about an unusual bunny? Blue of Sint-Niklaas is an unusual name for and unusual rabbit breed. Club Internationally, only blue varieties are accepted by the standard, in contrary to the Van Beverens, where other varieties are accepted. Also in contrary to the Van Beverens, the weight of the Blue of Sint-Niklaas is much larger, up to 12 lb (5.4 kg) indicating resemblance to the Flemish Giant. There are few breeders left of Blue of Sint-Niklaas bunnies. The Blue of Sint-Niklaas rabbits are now very rare and possibly close to extinction.  . They are not on the endangered species list YET. The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership.  Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. The AMERICAN RABBIT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION, INC. is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development, and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy.  With over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, its members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial rabbit raiser with several hundred animals.  Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry, whether it be for fancy, as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by the organization. The British Rabbit Council (BRC) is a British showing organization for rabbit breeders. Originally founded as The Beveren Club in 1918, its name first changed to British Fur Rabbit Society and finally to The British Rabbit Society. Today, the BRC among other things investigates rabbit diseases, maintains a catalog of rabbit breeds, and sets rules for about 1,000 rabbit shows annually in the UK. Owners of house rabbits are also encouraged to join the organization to learn how to care optimally for their pets. “Presented” means that they are there on exhibit for the ARBA committee to see and vote on if they would like to accept the new breed. Have I Missed Anything? If you know something about the breed standard, history or status of this rabbit, please let me know.   Do You Have a Story About This Particular Breed?  What do you love about them? Do you have any tips or tricks up your sleeve for what might make this breed happiest? Perhaps you're a breeder of this type of rabbit. Let us know, and maybe we can set up an interview? history, superstations, pop culture Let them know how to donate News Any kick starter campaigns? Contact information and Close. http://blue-of-sint-niklaas.rabbits-for-sale.info/ http://www.second-opinion-doc.com/blue-of-sint-niklaas-rabbit-breed.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_rabbit_breeds http://www.youpet.com/rabbit-breeds/ http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-some-rabbit-breeds.htm http://vetbook.org/wiki/rabbit/index.php?title=Blue_of_Sint-Niklaas http://wikivisually.com/wiki/Blue_of_Sint-Niklaas http://memim.com/blue-of-sint-niklaas.html https://www.omlet.co.uk/breeds/rabbits/st._nicholas_blue With its crazed bulging eyes, huge fangs and claws, The Vampire Rabbit of Newcastle is a mysterious grotesque that has perched above the ornate rear door of the historic Cathedral Buildings, facing the rear of St Nicholas Cathedral for over a hundred years but no one is quite sure why the blood-sucking lepus was created. Erected with the rest of the building in 1901, locals tell a tale of grave robbers who were running rampant in the area until one dark night the fanged beastie rose on the door opposite the graveyard as if to scare off future robbers. Less superstitiously, it has also been theorized that the vampire rabbit is in fact a hare whose ears were mistakenly put on backwards. If this were the case the bloody little creature could have been installed to reference Sir George Hare Phipson, a local doctor, Freemason, and friend of the cathedral’s architect. Most basically the rabbit could simply be meant to represent the coming of spring, invoking the same symbolic association that created the Easter Bunny. While the vampire rabbit of Newcastle was originally the same sandy color of the surrounding stonework, in modern times it has been painted a menacing black with droplets of blood staining its teeth and claws. http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/the-vampire-rabbit-of-newcastle If it is a hare, it could have been a quirky reference to a doctor in Newcastle at the time called Sir George Hare Phipson, also founder of Durham Masonic Hall, who was a friend of William H Wood, one of trio of architects behind the Cathedral Buildings adjacent to St Nicholas’. Wood may have been a freemason himself and hares appear in masonic symbolism. Or maybe the carving was a touch of Mad March Hare humour from the architects; the others being Thomas Oliver and John Leeson who, with Wood, transformed the west side of Dean Street from Mosely Street to The Side during those years. A decade ago the Vampire Rabbit enjoyed a brief moment in the limelight when it formed part of a light festival. During a winter Glow event in 2006, the carving was illuminated in pink, making it look even more weird and wonderful, and there were projections of it across the city. With so little known about the carving, there had been an appeal the previous year for any information about it to be included in an online archive involving Tyne and Wear Archive and Museums and Newcastle University. But the rabbit, which has had a few licks of paint over the years, including being turned black with its teeth, eyes and claws picked out in red, still retains its air of mystery. http://www.chroniclelive.co.uk/news/north-east-news/stories-behind-newcastles-called-vampie-12455793 Hemlock Heart Tale of Rabbit And The Dancing Turkeys https://www.accessgenealogy.com/native/tale-of-rabbit-and-the-dancing-turkeys.htm One time while Wild-Cat was out hunting he came upon Rabbit in the tall grass. Rabbit and Wild-Cat were enemies, and so they began to fight. Soon Wild-Cat had Rabbit down and was about to kill him, when Rabbit said: “How would you like some nice Turkeys to eat?” “That is just what I have been looking for,” said Wild-Cat. “Well, I know where there are some, and I was just about to catch some when I met you. Now, if you kill me they will all get away. You had better spare my life until I show you how to catch the Turkeys; then you may do what you please with me.” Wild-Cat agreed, and so Rabbit told him to stand still while he sang the Turkey dance song. After he had sung a little, he told Wild-Cat to lie down and pretend to be dead; that he would tell the Turkeys that he had killed Wild-Cat, and wished them to dance around him with closed eyes. While they danced, Wild-Cat was to jump up and grab all he wanted. Soon the Turkeys heard the song and came to see what it was about. Rabbit told them that he had killed the great turkey-eater, Wild-Cat, and that he wanted them to dance a victory dance around him. Rabbit continued his song, and as he sang the Turkeys danced. Wild-Cat peeped and saw one big one dancing near him. He jumped to get it, and as he grabbed the Turkey, Rabbit ran away through the grass, and so escaped from Wild-Cat.

Alaska Rabbit - News - Rabbit Catches a Duck - Sunflower - Greenhorn This episode: Alaska Rabbit; News; Rabbit catches a Duck; Sunflower; Greenhorn Feel free to visit the website: http://www.hareoftherabbit.com/ If you would like to support the podcast either visit the link for Amazon, then make your purchases as normal.  I cannot see who purchases what, but a small percentage of your purchase will benefit the podcast: https://www.amazon.com/?&tag=haroftherab-20&camp=228761&creative=536025&linkCode=ur1&adid=0Z1J5SZGFHE81DASKT78& Or you can donate to the podcast at: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=4748024 Outline: Today we are going to discuss the Alaska rabbit, some recent news, and we will have another Rabbit folkelore tale. We will also have the plant of the week, as well as the rabbit word of the week.  I would like to thank whoever purchased the items through our Amazon affiliate link on the www.HareoftheRabbit.com website.  I cannot see who purchases what, and there is no additional charge for you, but a small portion of your purchase is sent to support the podcast. Now, the Alaska Rabbit When I first encountered this breed, I guessed that it had been developed in Alaska, based on the name, but in fact, nothing could be further from the truth.  What is also surprising is that the rabbit named after an American state "Alaska", is currently an unrecognised breed in the United States. Despite the name, the Alaska rabbit doesn't come from the cold extremities of North America.  They were actually first developed in Germany and descend from Argente and Himalayan rabbits. We are going to cover the History of the Alaska Rabbit. The Alaska rabbit was created in 1900 by Max Fischer, of Gotha, and Schmidt, of Langensalza. Their Breeding goal was of obtaining a rabbit that looks like the sought-after Alaskan Fox.  The wanted to develop a rabbit breed that would provide another source of fur which would be profitable in the fur trades of that time.  A breeding programme was established in 1900 where they crossed Havanas, Dutch, Himalayans and Champagne d'Argents. The goal was to create a long Jet-black coat with long white guard hairs to mimic the coat of the Alaskan Fox whose pelt commanded a high price in those days, believing they would have a good market for their rabbit pelts.  They found the white guard hairs impossible to produce consistently, and as any good rabbit breeder will know, the genetics rarely go according to plan, so instead of getting a the black rabbit with the long silver hairs, the Alaska rabbit turned out to have an intense black colour and long glossy black guard hairs that gave the rabbit a beautiful sheen, and the rabbit became the rich black coated rabbit  that it is today.   So, they did not achieve their goal, but with the uncommon dense black coat, rich colour shade and unique intensity, they chose to keep the breed they had created and let it remain as it was, rather than keep the breeding process going.   They ended up with the jet black Alaska that is known today.  The first Alaskas were shown in 1907 and rapidly gained recognition across Europe.  The Alaska rabbit was introduced into the UK soon after their development, then became "extinct" until it was re-introduced in the 1970's.  It was known as a ‘Nubian’ in England and was extinct in that country until 1972 when it was reintroduced by Belgium Peter Townson.  By the 1970s, the Alaska had also found its way to Canada by being imported to North America by Bert Reurs of Canada.  It was in the mid-1970's when ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) had acknowledge the Alaskan breed. Their recognition in the United States was sadly short-lived, as the even more popular Havana rabbit came along in the 80s and the Alaska was dropped from the ARBA registry.  In 1981, the Black Havana Rabbit, which is similar in colour and build was introduced, and this saw the Alaska fall out of favour and it was subsequently dropped by the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) from their list. The breed has yet to make a comeback in the United States, but there are breeders who are hoping the breed will see a resurgence in popularity. We are going to now discuss the charactoristics of the Alaska Rabbit. As we covered before, at some point, the breeders didn't achieve what they intend to create but they were satisfied enough with their different result.  The results of their program did produce the Alaska rabbit which have a completely Jet- black color with a long glossy guard hairs without any mixture of silvering.  The Alaska is instantly recognisable thanks to its striking glossy black fur. The Alaska Rabbit Fur I believe that the most stricking characteristic of the Alaska Rabbit is the Jet Black fur.  The fur of the Alaskan is jet black with the base colour a slate blue and the tips a glossy black. There may be an even dispersion of isolated white hairs.  Long guard hairs are also interspersed throughout the coat.  The belly is black but may not be as shiny as the brilliant body coat. The eyes and toenails are a dark brown.   It is a ‘self’ rabbit and the underside is matt black.  The third gene in the A series is the self gene, which we indicate using the small letter “a”.   Any rabbit that shows a self color has the genotype of “aa,” because it cannot hide agouti or tan pattern under it.  In the show world, “self” means one single color all over, like black, blue, chocolate, and lilac.  When we’re talking genetics, the definition of self is slightly different.  In addition to black, chocolate, blue, and lilac, self colors also include tortoise, Siamese sable, sable point, smoke pearl, and other unrecognized varieties.  Although some genetically self rabbits have some shading, a genetically self rabbit will never have agouti or tan pattern markings.   Nearer the skin the hairs will be a deep slate colour, turning to a vibrant, shiny black towards the tips. A smattering of white hairs are allowed by the breed standard, but any more than that or any white patches or stripes would not be permitted by the standard.  A self or solid-coloured breed, the Alaska rabbit only comes in one colour - black.  The under-colour of the coat, near the skin, is usually a deep slate blue and turns jet black the closer it gets to the surface.   Only glossy black fur, any colour other than black is a fault for this breed.  It is considered a ur breed by British Rabbit Council standards, and only comes in its standard, pitch black color. The Alaska Rabbit Club is the BRC's national specialty club for this breed. The Alaskan rabbit is one of the very few true black rabbits and has a coat that is a jet black colour and dense in thickness. Alaska Rabbit Description Although It is not known exactly how they were created, it is believed that it was a crossing of the Havanas, Dutch, Himalayans and Champagne d'Argent rabbits which  resulted in an animal with the silky, thick fur which is the animal’s trademark.   The Argente is an ancient French breed. They have passed on their erect ear carriage to the Alaskan. They also have very dense, glossy coats like the Alaskan. The Argente has five colours recognised by the British Rabbit Council – Bleu (blue), Brun (brown), Creme (cream), Champagne (silvery) and Noir (black).  They have compact, cobby bodies with short necks and broad, rounded loins. The Himalayan rabbit has been known by many different names and its origins are uncertain. It has a very docile temperament and is popular as a pet. Generally the Himalayan breeds very true to type. Crossings of the Himalayan  and the Argente resulted in the Alaskan which is popular today as both a pet and a show breed. Body The Alaskan rabbit should weigh between 2.7 and 3.9kg (7-9 lb) and is regarded/classed as a medium sized variety.  It is a thick-set rabbit and appears to be without a neck. They have a well-rounded and balanced body with a solid block type and, while not as compact as other breeds, they have good bone development for their size.  The head is broad and carried very close to the body without a distinct neck area.  The head of the doe is generally slightly finer than that of the buck.  Bucks (males) have a little heavier type, while does (females) tend to have more feminine features and are permitted to have a dewlap (a roll of skin at the neck, often giving the appearance that the rabbit's head is resting on a cushion of fur). In show rabbits, a dewlap is allowed providing it is well developed and in proportion to the whole.  The chest is broad and the shoulders and rump well-muscled. The legs are strong and of medium length.   Ears and Eyes The ears are upright and quite short, broad and rounded in comparison to other similar breeds. They are quite broad and rounded at the ends.The ears of the Alaskan are a brown-black colour and are held open and straight. The breed should have dark toenails and dark, bright eyes and should only ever be brown-black eyes to black. The nose and pads of the paws should also be a matt black colour. Temperament/Personality Like many other breeds the Alaska is generally docile and makes a great pet or show animal. Rabbits are generally more active in the morning and at night and an Alaska will be fairly active rabbit.  The Alaska rabbit has a well-tempered behavior and are relatively non-aggressive when compared with other rabbits so they make great pets.  Although they have a rather bubbly, outgoing personality, they are gentle, very loving and will love to spend hours at a time with you! Like any Rabbit, they should be handled carefully only by those who know how to pick rabbits up correctly.  It’s easy to cause spinal problems in rabbits if they are not handled properly.  Plus, if he feels uncomfortable or fearful while being carried he will struggle and may kick out with his very powerful back legs which could cause injury to himself or whoever is holding him. Although a gentle and quite affectionate breed, the Alaska can be skittish.  Having said that, they relish playtime and have lots of energy, so they will appreciate the company of those who can keep up with them.   The Alaska is an intelligent rabbit and can be trained to use a litter tray quite easily so if you’re planning on bringing your rabbit to live indoors he should be shown where he can relieve himself. What is it that makes this breed original? Why choose an Alaska Rabbit? ⦁    The Alaska is instantly recognisable thanks to its striking glossy black fur. ⦁    The Alaska's original purpose is for its fur, helping to reduce the pressure of trapping Alaskan fox.  You could also tan and utilize the fur.. The fur are its greatest value wherein you can tan and utilize the fur either for personal or business interest. ⦁    The breed makes a very flashy pet, with its intense and shiny black coat and dense silky fur.Pet lovers will surely enjoy their comfy black dense silky fur. ⦁    At 7 - 9 pounds, this rabbit can also double as a meat rabbit or a source of raw homemade pet food. Health All rabbits should be vaccinated against myxomatosis and VHD – both of which are potentially fatal conditions that can be spread by infected animals, bedding, utensils or toys.  Annual vaccinations against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease and myxomatosis are recommended.  They should also be treated regularly for fleas, ticks and worms. Rabbits are most active in the morning and at night.  They are more delicate than is generally believed. The basic diet should consist of unlimited fresh hay (which should not be dusty), fresh fruit and vegetables, good quality dry rabbit mix and clean water. They should be housed in a dry, draft-free area.  If kept in a cage, a plastic or wire base should be covered with a suitable bedding such as straw or wood shavings.  Fine sawdust is not suitable as it can cause eye irritations.  They should have sufficient room to exercise himself.  Keep his environment and food and water containers clean and you will have a contented bunny who should have few health problems. Dental hygiene is an essential part of rabbit care.  Their teeth grow continuously and will need the correct diet to keep them worn down. Overgrown teeth can cause lots of problems for your Rabbit, including difficulty eating, and injuries in the mouth that can lead to abscesses.  The best way to combat overgrown molars and enamel spurs is to stop them happening in the first place by providing a diet high in good quality hay and lots of fibrous green vegetables such as cabbage and kale. Gnaw toys also help keep teeth in check. If you suspect a dental issue your vet can carry out an examination and any remedial work necessary. The coat needs a good brush at least once a week, more during periods of  moulting. Additionally, as rabbits’ teeth keep growing throughout their lives, eating the right food will help to keep the teeth properly ground down, but you do need to check, on a frequent basis, that this is happening properly, or your pet may need to have its teeth ground down by the vet. Your rabbit should never be allowed to get overweight.  Excess weight will prevent your pet from looking after himself properly and if he can’t groom then flies may become attracted to soiled areas of fur.  These flies could lay their eggs in the fur and the emerging larvae will bury into your rabbit’s skin causing great discomfort and even infection.  Flystrike can be prevented by keeping your rabbit’s weight down and making sure his fur and his bedding is clean. Caring for your Rabbit: Whether he’s going to be a house or a hutch rabbit, he will need access to a run or a secure area so he can nibble and take in some rays.  Rabbits do love sunbathing, but the should have a shaded area where he can get out of the sun if necessary. If they are going to be a house rabbit he should be introduced to other pets carefully and while he/she still young enough not to be scared.  they should have a place he can go to get away from it all – a dog crate is ideal for this.  They should be provided with a litter tray too and can be trained to use this relatively easily.  Cables, wires, shoes, clothes, important papers and anything else you treasure should be kept out of the way as they will chew whatever they can get his teeth into.  Even a house Rabbit should have the opportunity  to have a good run and explore in a safe place outside. If your pet is going to live in a hutch you should consider getting two animals as rabbits live in colonies of many animals in the wild and do not like to live alone.  This medium sized rabbit needs plenty of space to move around and exercise, and a hutch that is large enough for it to stretch to its full height and length in all directions.  The hutch should be water and windproof and a cover should be placed over the mesh front in the harshest weather. Sawdust makes an excellent substrate and can easily be cleaned out once a week.  Droppings should be removed regularly.  the rabbit should have access to clean, fresh water every day and logs, tubes and toys would be welcome additions to his home.  The hutch should have a covered area where he can build a nest and go for a snooze or get out of the weather. The diet should be carefully planned to help him stay fit and healthy and should consist of good hay, high-quality rabbit pellets and lots of green leaves and vegetables such as cabbage, dandelions and nettles.  Feed a standard rabbit diet to ensure good digestion, avoid obesity and give proper wear on the rabbit’s continually growing teeth. Notes of safety: Please note that, despite their ‘cute’ appearance,  rabbits are not ideal for very small children to handle unless they are closely supervised. Rabbits should be socialised at an early age and young children should be told how to hold a rabbit properly. If any rabbit becomes frightened, its natural reaction is to try and escape, and its powerful back legs can injure the human handler and can cause the rabbit to be dropped and injure itself. As with all pedigree pets, it is very important to obtain a young rabbit or rabbit kit from a reputable source where you can be guaranteed that it has been bred with a view to avoiding any inherent problems found in the breed. Always keep your rabbits safe from dogs and cats who may harm them.  Even where pets ‘get on’, they should be supervised when together and you must ensure that your rabbit is not stressed by being exposed to other family pets or people. Health issues in the Alaska rabbit The Alaska rabbit is a generally healthy breed of rabbit. As with all rabbits, however, check that its bottom is clean of any debris and is kept dry to avoid the danger of flystrike. Teeth and also toe nails should be checked frequently to ensure they are not growing too long. Average lifespan of the Alaska rabbit. 7 – 10 years and sometimes more. Alaska rabbits are non aggressive so would be fine with younger pet lovers who are gentle. This breed is both outgoing and affectionate, soit will be rewarding to interact with.  Nevertheless, these are beautiful, vibrantly colored rabbits, bright-eyed, substantial, and densely furred. Use This is a multi-use breed.  It is mostly a dual purpose rabbit, mainly kept for its fur and meat, although they should also make for a great pet! Intersting Facts! ⦁    There was also a white Alaska however it is now extinct. ⦁    Interestingly, probably because of the thick, dense coat, the Alaska was used in the creation of the Black Rex. Club Recognition? It is recognised by the British Rabbit Council; however it is not recognised by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Today, The British Rabbit Council continues to raise the profile and status of rabbit breeding. As new breeds were developed during the 1920's, they were standardised and adopted by The Beveren Club until the society had become a general fur breed club. To recognise its new status, it had two name changes, first to the British Fur Rabbit Society and then later to the to The British Rabbit Society. By 1928 the Society had 13 different fur breeds under its jurisdiction.  Today, The British Rabbit Council encourages research into diseases and other topical issues. As the role of the rabbit has developed into a popular pet, the British Rabbit Council actively encourages good rabbit keeping amongst pet owners. The Newark Head Office receives many hundreds of letters or calls each month asking for advice or information on an extremely wide variety of topics concerned with the rabbit. These are not confined to individual people but are sometimes from official bodies, Governments or overseas.  Each year approximately 1000 shows take place throughout Great Britain! Today sees a structure of District Advisors who give their time to help people in their regions. These are well respected members of great experience appointed by the Council to give advice locally. At shows, awards are available from the Council. The basis of these is the Challenge Certificate which is awarded to the best rabbit of its particular group. Breed Status The BRC (British Rabbit Council) had classified the Alaska breed for fur production.  This was due to their jet black dense, silky and lustrous fur. The fur are also glossy and intensely pigmented. In the United States, ARBA no longer recognize this type of breed which means that they can go extinct.  With your help, you can change the future of the Alaskan rabbit breeds by raising them. This will maintain their number that ARBA might consider them on their list once again.   ARBA still does not recognize this breed. Maybe YOU could help change this by raising them and spurring interest in the breed.) Rabbits with such dense and lustrous coats usually tend to win more often than seems fair! http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-genetics/agouti-tan-self-a-series-otter/ http://scl.io/NA8sTOfi#gs.Ze3R8do News: European rabbits landed in Australia with the First Fleet in 1788. Since then they have multiplied, as the saying goes, and are estimated to cost the nation more than $200 million-a-year in lost agricultural production – not to mention the damage to native species growth, regeneration and biodiversity. The various state primary industry departments hope the new K5 virus strain, a variant of the existing RHDV1 virus released into the environment in 1996, will be more effective as a wild rabbit killer, particularly in cooler climates and among young rabbits, known as kittens.The virus will be released at more than 150 sites in Victoria and owners of pet rabbits, commercial rabbits and rabbit breeders are urged to vaccinate their animals in preparation. "The current calicivirus vaccine, administered by vets, is expected to provide good protection of pet rabbits against all strains of the RHDV1 virus, including the RHDV1 K5 strain," says Victoria's Acting Chief Veterinary Officer Dr Cameron Bell. Other protective measures include: ensuring pet rabbits do not come into contact with wild rabbits, or grass that has been grazed on by wild rabbits; insect-proofing hutches (the virus can be transmitted by fleas, mosquitoes and flies); and disposing of any virus-affected carcasses properly and hygienically. http://www.smh.com.au/national/pet-owners-warned-to-vaccinate-against-rabbitkiller-virus-20170223-guk0z2.html Rabbit on Ahmedabad airport runway almost makes IndiGo, SpiceJet planes collide The pilot of IndiGo flight reported that there was a rabbit on the runway after which he pulled the brakes hard averting a lethal accident. Airport sources told IndiaToday, a major accident which could have claimed lives of many was averted yesterday between two airlines, namely IndiGo and SpiceJet, on Ahemedabad airport runway. After landing the Indigo aircraft, it was moving towards taxiway and the SpiceJet aircraft was ready for take off. Sources inform that the SpiceJet pilot at this juncture saw the IndiGo flight was still on the runway whereas it was supposed to be off the runway by then. ATC Ahmedabad had to intervene. The pilot of IndiGo airlines reported that a rabbit on the runway was spotted just after landing at Ahmedabad airport, due to which the pilot was forced to pull the brakes hard to halt the aircraft. As the IndiGo pilot stopped the aircraft, the nose of the aircraft was still on taxiway and tail of aircraft still on the runway. While SpiceJet pilots maintain in their report that the IndiGo aircraft wasn't cleared off the runway when SpiceJet was ready to take off. Both the pilots reported ATC about the incident. http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/rabbit-ahmedabad-airport-runway-indigo-spicejet/1/891272.html ‘Never Again’ Marks 75th Anniversary of JA Incarceration “Never Again,” a series of speakers, films, and exhibits to commemorate the 75th anniversary of the incarceration of Japanese Americans during World War II, kicked off at Occidental College on Feb. 12. That’s one week shy of the Feb. 19 anniversary of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s signing of Executive Order 9066 in 1942, which led to the incarceration of more than 120,000 Japanese Americans – more than two-thirds of them U.S. citizens – in 10 hastily constructed camps in California and six other states. “What happened to people of Japanese ancestry in our country 75 years ago remains relevant today,” says Julie Kimiko Santos, associate director of international programs at Occidental and series organizer. “Now more than ever it is important to know how and why this tragedy occurred, and the many lessons to be learned.” Bay Area filmmaker Emiko Omori began the series Feb. 12 with a screening of her short film “When Rabbit Left the Moon,” inspired by her own family’s incarceration in Arizona. Omori, who was a toddler when her family was forcibly relocated to Poston, and her older sister Chizu Omori answered questions after the screening. The Vaults at Waterloo - Alice's Adventures Underground Alice’s Adventures Underground – the immersive theatre experience which is returning to The Vaults at Waterloo this April! Audiences will tumble down the rabbit hole and interact with the magical and bizarre characters of Wonderland as they hunt for missing Alice. Audiences choose their own adventure, creating a unique experience with every visit. Meet the White Rabbit, enjoy tea with the Mad Hatter and finish the evening with a cocktail in the Wonderland Bar! The show is unlike anything else in London at the moment and requires a tremendous amount of detail to ensure each audience member is seamlessly immersed in the world of Wonderland. As I’m sure you can imagine, creating Wonderland in the 11 tunnels beneath Waterloo Station is no mean feat either and requires 33 detailed sets, over 65,000 jam tarts and almost 100,000 playing cards! The Wonderland Bar, which is open to visitors to the show and to those just wanting to transport themselves to another world after work, is set to include some bespoke Alice themed cocktails and some delicious food as well. http://www.tntmagazine.com/london/stage/the-vaults-at-waterloo---alices-adventures-underground Tale of 2 Rabbit Hashes: Northside brewery reconsiders name after backlash A brewery in Cincinnati is changing its name before its doors even open after a social media feud boiled over. When Paul Kemp and his father decided to switch from home brewing to opening a true brick and mortar shop, they chose Cincinnati as the location because the environment is more welcoming, Kemp said. When they chose a name, they picked Rabbit Hash, as an homage to the small Boone County, Kentucky town. Rabbit Hash Brewery filed as a limited liability corporation in April 2015. In December 2015 it applied for the trademark for Rabbit Hash Brewery and its logo. The rub? The brewers never talked to the Rabbit Hash Historical Society. The Kemps, who live near Hebron, just miles from Rabbit Hash and are business owners in Burlington, never guessed what would happen when Cincinnati's Northside neighborhood residents got wind of the "misappropriated" brewery name. The brewery is holding a contest to rename the brewey... http://www.cincinnati.com/story/news/2017/02/22/tale-two-rabbit-hashes-brewery/98209348/ An anonymous donor has dug deep to help veterinary professionals enhance their rabbit skills by covering the costs of CPD courses aimed at understanding the species’ ailments and treatments.    Retired vet Frances Harcourt-Brown, who runs a range of rabbit-related CPD courses in Yorkshire, contacted vettimes.co.uk to speak of her delight at learning a “very generous lady” – known only as Mrs X – had provided the funds to enable practitioners to attend a number of sessions. https://www.vettimes.co.uk/news/mystery-benefactor-funds-rabbit-course-places/ The creative flair of Teesside chef Michael O’Hare is now on show in Manchester - at an eatery owned by two Manchester United legends. The Eston-born Michelin star chef is the creative director at new ‘space age Asian’ restaurant, The Rabbit in the Moon. Owned by GG Hospitality - a company owned by Ryan Giggs and Gary Neville - the eatery is located on the fifth and sixth floors of the National Football Museum in Manchester’s city centre Urbis building. Among the eclectic dishes on offer are Wagyu truffle nigiri, edible plum stone, duck liver satay, sticky halibut ribs and a Chinese bacon butty. http://www.gazettelive.co.uk/whats-on/food-drink-news/rabbit-moon-creative-flair-eston-12635693  Dogs, people and at least one rabbit strut through Soulard for the annual pet parade     By Tim O’Neil St. Louis Post-Dispatch Feb 19, 2017 (0) Several thousand dog owners dressed up their pooches in Mardi Gras attire for the 24th annual Beggin’ Pet Parade Sunday in the Soulard neighborhood, where excuses for a street party come easy. Lovers of dogs, sunshine and anything Mardi Gras lined the streets five to 10 deep to watch people stroll with dogs in zany costumes.warmup to next Saturday’s big Mardi Gras parade, many of the people present Sunday showed up in their Carnival finest. Marchers tossed beads into the crowds of grasping onlookers.Tracie Quackenbush, director of the Open Door Sanctuary in House Springs, said she was optimistic that Sunday’s turnout would beat the record $20,000 raised by the pet parade two years ago. It has supported the sanctuary since 1994, when the event began with perhaps 300 dogs and was known as the Mystic Krewe of Barkus. As the parade caught on, Purina became sponsor to promote its Beggin’ line of dog snacks. The parade is open to all pets, but dogs rule overwhelmingly. There was hardly a cat in sight. A solitary rabbit rode in a cage on a children’s wagon. Stella Palmer, 12, of Crestwood, brought her pet hen, Speckle, which perched calmly on a milk crate as Stella watched the parade go by on Russell Boulevard. Stella brought her for a simple reason: “I don’t have a dog.” http://www.stltoday.com/news/local/metro/dogs-people-and-at-least-one-rabbit-strut-through-soulard/article_2b63ee4f-0a7d-56cc-962d-643a3b99f3bf.html Dick Bruna, 'spiritual father' of rabbit Miffy, dies at 89 Dick Bruna, the Dutch "spiritual father" of Miffy, the white rabbit who enchanted millions of young children around the world for more than half a century, has died at age 89, his publisher announced Friday.     Bruna "passed away peacefully in his sleep" Thursday night in the central Dutch city of Utrecht, Kerkhof said. The simplicity of Bruna's characters drew adoration not only from children, but also from adult art lovers. Amsterdam's venerable Rijksmuseum put on a show featuring his work in 2015. He wrote and illustrated a total of 124 books, but Miffy, known in the Netherlands as Nijntje, a contraction of the Dutch word for rabbit, was far and away his most popular and best known character. Bruna created 32 books about the rabbit, which were translated into more than 50 languages and sold more than 85 million copies, Kerkhof said. The man his publisher described as Miffy's "spiritual father" stopped drawing in 2011. Miffy, who turns 62 this year, is a merchandising juggernaut, featuring on stationery, toys and children's trinkets sold across the world as part of a multimillion-euro (dollar) business. http://www.chinapost.com.tw/editorial/taiwan-issues/2017/02/19/491880/Dick-Bruna.htm Agri-business getting youth attention By: Emmanuel Ntirenganya     Published: February 18, 2017 Rwanda’s agriculture and livestock sector has long been characterised by an ageing farming population whose average age is 55 years. As a result, innovation, creativity and technology adaptation as well as skills transfer has been slow, according to the Ministry of Agriculture and Animal Resources (MINAGRI) and agricultural experts. But lately, some youth have embraced the sector and committed to making it more vibrant in its entire supply chain. The Rwanda Youth in Agribusiness Forum was formed in May 2016 to bring together young people engaged in commercial farming in the country. Unlike traditional farming, these youths’ focus is commercial farming. Currently, the organisation has 1,265 members grouped into five clusters namely crop production, livestock production, agro-processing (animal and crops), other agro-services which include packaging, inputs, extension services, mechanissation, among others, and information communication technologies (ICTs) for agriculture. Eric Manirakiza, a rabbit farmer, founded Impano Rabbitry Company. The 26-year-old is a 2014 graduate in ICT programming at the University of Rwanda’s College of Science and Technology. He told Saturday Times on Monday that he started with 100 rabbits in October 2016, and his colony has already grown to about 600 with modern rabbit farming involving proper record-keeping on the rabbitry population and ensuring hygiene and sustainable productivity. The rabbitry has an average birth of 200 rabbits per month. 1487363533manirakiza Manirakiza at his rabbitry in Ruhango District. Manirakiza’s farm has 80 female rabbits divided into two units of 40 each, he said. An adult rabbit at his farm gives birth to at least five baby rabbits, he said, and its gestation period (conception to birth delivery) is 30 days. It also breastfeeds its off-springs for 30 days after which the off-springs are weaned and the mother rabbit made to mate again. The rabbits are sheltered in plastic-covered metallic sheds which let their liquid and solid waste out freely, leaving them well aerated. After paying farm costs and salaries for his 11 employees, he earns about Rwf700,000 per month from his business. Manirakiza said that his rabbits typically weigh about five kilogrammes at five months and are sold at Rwf8,000 each. Rabbit meat costs Rwf3,000 a kilogramme at the local market and about Rwf6,000 per kg when exported, he said. His farm, located in Ruhango Sector of Ruhango District in Southern Province, was one hectare at inception but has since grown to five hectares so he can grow enough grass to feed the rabbits. Manirakiza said that his rabbitry has an ICT system which helps him keep records for his livestock and analyses the database looking at things like when should the rabbits give birth, when should the young ones mate. “It’s like a calendar alert application in a telephone. We enter data into it and it gives us notification, for instance, when there are two days remaining for the rabbits to mate,” he said. His priority is good rabbit hygiene, because he wants to begin selling rabbits to restaurants soon. Hotels in Rwanda are currently reluctant to put rabbit on their menus because there is an unreliable supply of the meat and it is sometimes unhygienic, he said. Once he starts to get 1,300 kg a month, he will begin selling to hotels, he said. Consumers in Belgium and South Africa have asked him to supply 2 to 15 tonnes of meat per week, but his current production falls far short of such demand. “Rabbit meat is healthy; it is high in protein and very low in fat, almost zero. In countries like Kenya, rabbits are on high demand,” he said, adding that he wants to work with other youth to help meet the demand and create more jobs. Manirakiza also plans to make manure compost from the liquid waste generated from his farm, currently, they produce about 10 jerry cans (about 200 litres) of liquid waste per day and trials have shown that such manure has very high soil fertilising properties, he said. http://www.newtimes.co.rw/section/article/2017-02-18/208129/ I will tell you of how The Rabbit Goes Duck Hunting from the Cherokee People. http://www.ilhawaii.net/~stony/1097lore.html The Rabbit Goes Duck Hunting     The Rabbit was so boastful that he would claim to do what- ever he saw anyone else do, and so tricky that he could usually make the other animals believe it all. Once he pretended that he could swim in the water and eat fish just as the Otter did, and when the others told him to prove it he fixed up a plan so that the Otter himself was deceived.     Soon afterward they met again and the Otter said, "I eat ducks sometimes." Said the Rabbit, "Well, I eat ducks too." The Otter challenged him to try it; so they went up along the river until they saw several ducks in the water and managed to get near without being seen. The Rabbit told the Otter to go first. The Otter never hesitated, but dived from the bank and swam under water until he reached the ducks, when he pulled one down without being noticed by the others, and came back in the same way.     While the Otter had been under the water the Rabbit had peeled some bark from a sapling and made himself a noose. "Now," he said, "Just watch me;" and he dived in and swam a little way under the water until he was nearly choking and had to come up to the top to breathe. He went under again and came up again a little nearer to the ducks. He took another breath and dived under, and this time he came up among the ducks and threw the noose over the head of one and caught it. The duck struggled hard and finally spread its wings and flew up from the water with the Rabbit hanging on to the noose.     It flew on and on until at last the Rabbit could not hold on any longer, but had to let go and drop. As it happened, he fell into a tall, hollow sycamore stump without any hole at the bottom to get out from and there he stayed until he was so hungry that he had to eat his own fur, as the rabbit does ever since when he is starving. After several days, when he was very weak with hunger, he heard children playing outside around the trees. He began to sing:     Cut a door and look at me;     I'm the prettiest thing you ever did see.     The children ran home and told their father, who came and began to cut a hole in the tree. As he chopped away the Rabbit inside kept singing, "Cut it larger, so you can see me better; I"m so pretty." They made the hole larger, and then the Rabbit told them to stand back so that they could take a good look as he came out. They stood away back, and the Rabbit watched his chance and jumped out and got away. Sunflower Greenhorn

On this Episode I talk about the Palomino Rabbit.     The Palomino is a golden colored, like the famous Palomino horse.   Much like the beautiful Palomino horse that the Palomino rabbit resembles in color, the breed features a golden, wheat-colored coat. The color is very distinctive and comes in two shade varieties, the golden and the lynx. The Palomino breed is affectionately termed 'Pals'. The Palomino has a heartwarming history.   The breed was developed by Mark Youngs of Coulee Dam of the Lone Pine Rabbitry in Washington State.  Mr Youngs, who had been involved in the rabbit hobby since 1910, had an intense desire to create a "new" breed of rabbit.  He had been raising and breeding rabbits for 30 years but began to dream of creating his own breed. He coined the term "Color Blend Breeding" when describing his process in development of the breed. For many years Mr. Youngs purchased meat rabbits from the youngsters of the area.  During the course of time while developing the Palomino, Mr Youngs would save fryers initially destined for processing. The majority of these original rabbits were mostly black or brown in color. In time, these rabbits, or "sports" as Mr Youngs referred to them, were bred to sports he obtained from various sources. Occasionally a "buckskin" or tawny rabbit would result from breedings made from the original sports. When these tawny rabbits were bred, kits were saved that also bore the tawny or golden color. As these gold-colored rabbits were bred to others of like color, the percentage of tawny kits in each litter would progressively increase. Matings of various color shades were accomplished following a combination of line breeding, in-breeding, as well as out crossing. Over the course of time, Mr Youngs began seeing litters with 100% of a light gold-colored (or beige) offspring.  During the late 1940’s and early 50’s, crossing various commercial-typed rabbit eventually gave him fawn rabbits he called tawnies.  Mr. Youngs selected what appeared to be sports from some of these live fryers and would mate them together. Occasionally he would obtain in some of the litters buckskin or light yellow-brown youngsters. Youngs would also refer to this color as “tawnies”. These off colored yellow-brown rabbits were all saved and interbred. He would also introduce blood from other sources into his project that he termed “color-blen breeding”. Future generations would produce a fawn or golden colored rabbit.  Soon he enlisted the help of several “co-breeders.”  Together they developed their sunny bunnies into a breed.  As with any new breed, Mr. Youngs persisted despite color problems that showed up such as smut, ticking, eye circles and white spots.   In 1952 Mark Youngs began refering to these "beige" rabbits as the "American Beige". In some of the early litters, off-colored sports began to appear with a smokey or "sooty white" color with dark eyes. Future generations developed into a more golden shade and the breed was renamed the "Washingtonian" (for the state in which they were developed). After continued breeding, a variation of the gold color began appearing, which Mr Youngs referred to as "fawn". These different colored offspring were saved and soon 100% of these fawn-colored rabbits were appearing in litters. Mr. Youngs, along with his wife Mabel, presented the new breed for the first time at the 1952 ARBA convention and show at Portland, Oregon, and dubbed the breed “Washingtonian”, however he did not like that name so he placed a coffee can next the cages holding the exhibition rabbits, which would serve as a suggestion box for naming the new breed. People offered such names as; Honey-Dew, Honey-Fawn, Golden Palomino and of course we all know the winning suggestion was Palomino. “Presented” means that they are there on exhibit for the ARBA committee to see and vote on if they would like to accept the new breed. The Washingtonians were presented at the 1953 Amarillo, Texas ARBA Convention when the name was officially changed to Palomino.  They were presented at the 1954 York, Pennsylvania convention, the 1955 Columbus Ohio Convention, the 1956 St Paul, Minnesota Convention. The Standards committee still had not approved the new breed because they felt they need further improvement. Then in Little Rock, Arkansas Convention in 1957 we would see the Palomino recognized as a new breed in America, with one variety, the Lynx. The most popular color of the breed is the Golden, which received final approval in 1958 at the Springfield, Illinois Convention. The first Palomino ever registerd was in the fall of 1957 by Francis E. Baughman of Findlay, Ohio. It was at this point (1953) that the current name of "Palomino" was adopted. In 1955, the name Fawn Palomino was dropped in favor of the name, Lynx Palomino upon the recommendation of the ARBA Standards Committee since it was felt this name was more descriptive of the lilac tint present in the fur. The Palomino rabbit leveled off into its two distinctive varieties - Lynx and Golden (the Lynx being the first variety of the newly recognized Palomino breed in 1957 and the Golden following with its official recognition as the second variety in 1958). By the late 1960's the Palomino, being a relatively new breed, was actually breeding truer than many older more established breeds. This was due to the dedication of Mark Youngs and those early breed supportors in promoting and continuing the advancement of the Palomino breed. The Palomino Rabbit Co-Breeders Association - established in 1955, even before the Palomino's official acceptance, has been commited to continued improvement and support of those who breed and exhibit the Palomino in the spirit of cooperation to all who express a sincere interest in this beautiful and utilitarian rabbit.   After much hard work and dedication, the Palomino was officially recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc. in 1957 Unfortunately, records of the rabbit breeds used to develop the Palomino were not kept but the Youngs would purchase meat rabbits from locals for breeding.   Overall Description The Palomino Rabbit is a large to medium sized commercial breed rabbit.  Like some other rabbit breeds, the Palomino does are heavier than the bucks, such that the female Palomino Rabbits body weight ranging from 9 lbs to 11 lbs (4 kg to 5kg), whereas the male Palomino Rabbits will have a body weight between 8 lbs and 10 lbs (3.6 kg and 4.5kg). The body of the Palomino Rabbit breed is medium in length with firm flesh and it has well rounded hindquarters. The body type is commercial, similar to that of a New Zealand.  Their body contain a smaller bone structure than other meat rabbit variety. And such smaller bone structure offers the breeder a superior meat ratio. The ears of the rabbit are large, upright and erect and it has brown colored eyes. Coat The coat of the both types of Palomino Rabbits have coarse, short to medium rollback fur, which does not require much maintenance.   This breed has what is called flyback or rollback fur  In order to keep it show-worthy, During off-seasons shedding times, bi-weekly grooming sessions are perfectly acceptable.  During the spring, owners may want to increase the number of brushings depending on how much the rabbit’s shed.  Once to twice per week should be plenty during these molting periods. Colors The breed recognizes two varieties: golden and lynx.  Genetically, golden is a bright fawn.  Lynx is not a true lynx (lilac agouti), but simply the dilute version of golden, which most breeds call cream.   The golden color is reported to be the most common color, which is an orange-beige color over a white or cream undercoat. The Lynx colored rabbit has a gray or silver surface color, mixing with an orange-beige in-between over the cream or white undercoat. The Palomino Rabbit breed can be easily recognized by its unique fawny orange color. Any of these color color problems that show up such as smut, ticking, eye circles and white spots variations are considered faults or disqualifications when the rabbits are shown at an ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) rabbit show. Care Requirements This particular breed does well either in indoor or outdoor enclosures, as its coat is dense and coarse enough to handle cold temperatures (even with snow), so long as its outdoor enclosure is protected from the elements (sun, rain, snow). Outdoor enclosures should also be covered on three sides to protect rabbits from cold drafts in the winter, as well as provide ventilation and shade at the same time during the hotter months. Indoor enclosures should be made of wire and have a solid bottom in order to lay down rabbit-safe bedding (horse bedding is acceptable as well). Bedding should be spot-cleaned everyday to keep it sanitary and needs to be completely replaced at the end of every week. If kept in a cage, the enclosure should be at least five times the size of the rabbit with plenty of room to stretch and stand upright. Wire mesh flooring should be avoided because the rabbit’s feet could get caught in them. A hide box or sleeping quarters should be provided for times when the rabbit needs to hide or sleep in private. Diet: Like other rabbits, Palomino Rabbits are herbivorous. The main ingredient of their diet is hay, preferably Timothy grass hay, which is rich in the fiber needed to prevent diarrhea, obesity, and hairballs.  Leafy vegetables, though also essential to a rabbit’s health, should be given sparingly to prevent digestive disorders.   For variety, treats may be given (although occasionally because of potentially high starch or sugar content) such as carrots, peaches, plum, apples, papaya, pears, strawberries, and other fruits.  Commercial rabbit pellets also add nutrients to the daily diet.  Fresh water should always be available, either from a sipper bottle or in a stable water bowl.  As with any rabbit, the Palomino’s consists of 70 percent high-quality hay (such as orchard hay), with the rest being a healthy mixture of leafy greens, pellets, fruits and vegetables.   Adult rabbits can eat about 1/4 cup of high-fiber pellets everyday for every 5 lbs. it weighs. Health Like other small mammals, Palomino Rabbits can be susceptible to colds and viral infections. Exposure to draft, sudden changes in temperature and stress can lower the rabbit’s resistance to sickness.  Rabbits are also vulnerable to conjunctivitis (a bacterial infection of the eyelids caused by smoke, dust, and fumes) and ear mites.  Intestinal ailments like coccidiosis (parasites propagated by unsanitary conditions), bloat, and hairball obstructions are also common in rabbits. Due to the Palomino’s short, coarse coat, it is not at-risk for digestive issues such as woodblock.  It is still susceptible to other problems such as overgrown teeth, flystrike and ear mites.  Owners should check the Palomino rabbit ears every 2-3 weeks for mites and if your rabbit’s diet does not consist mainly of hay, it may develop overgrown teeth.  This will affect if/how much they eat, as its constantly growing teeth can grow into its jaw, and be painful.  This can be corrected with a quick trip to your vet at first, and then switch to a diet that is higher in hay, as it naturally grinds down your rabbit’s teeth. Palomino Rabbits are very clean animals and will groom themselves and also each other. Palomino Rabbits are crepuscular-(meaning the are most active at morning and evening) and do most of there feeding in the evening.   Temperament/Behavior In order to see its personality blossom, the Palomino rabbit needs plenty of time outside of its enclosure to explore and form a lasting bond with its human family.  Palominos have friendly personalities.  The Palomino Rabbit breeds display an extremely cute look with a very calm personality to match too.   The Palomino rabbit is a hardy and strong breed. It is a docile breed in temperament and considered to be one of the best breed of home pets. They are friendly and have a very calm personality. They enjoy human company.  They have an extremely passive and friendly temperament, and they mostly fond of in company with people. The Palomino Rabbit breeds are not a pure breed, but they are a blend of several other rabbit breeds and they were developed to find the best combination perfect for commercial and petting.  Palomino       Rabbits are calm, friendly, and very gentle. Pet Palomino Rabbits should be kept in pairs for Companionship, its important for a rabbits happiness and it can live longer with a companion. They are best kept in pairs or trios but preferably one per cage to minimize injury from occasional infighting.  In the wild, rabbits are very social. Female Palomino Rabbits can produce about 2 to 4 litters of bunnies per year with 4 to 6 babies.  Breeders say that does make excellent mothers and raise healthy-sized litters.  Fryers grow quickly to dress-out size. Uses Rabbits tend to be bred for one of four things: meat, fur, show, or pet use. The Palamino rabbit is referred to as an “All-Purpose Rabbit” because it fulfills all four of these purposes.  It is a Multi-purpose rabbit, and It is a fine breed for either meat production or for showing, and they should also make for a great pet!  Even though this is a large breed of rabbit, they are gentle and easily handled. This makes them good for pets or show rabbits as well as meat production. The Palomino Rabbit breed is recognized for its toughness, outstanding production traits, and fast growth. It is a breed ideally suited for either exhibition or meat production. The Palomino Rabbits contain a smaller bone structure than other meat variety rabbits, which offers breeders a superior meat ratio.   As a large breed, the Palomino rabbit is suitable for meat production. They can be a good choice for meat rabbit farming business.  The Palominos have always been known for their amazing hardiness, excellent production qualities along with their rapid growth for fryer size animal. Having been specifically bred to be a meat rabbit, the Palomino has a medium-sized body with well-rounded shoulders and hips and firm flesh.  Palominos grow to fryer size rapidly but they do take time to full mature. Because the bone structure of the Palomino is lighter than most commercial breeds, they produce a larger quantity of meat. This is because of the meat to bone ratio being higher. When this breed is raised for meat, it gives them an added edge in meat production. Apart from being recognized as one among the meatiest commercial rabbit breeds, the Palomino Rabbit breeds are also considered to be one among the best breed of home pets, as well. The Palomino rabbit makes a wonderful first-time pet.  The Palomino Rabbits are cuddly and make for amazing  Pets.  Palominos love to be out of its enclosure and into the world.  Due to its gentle nature, it does well with children so long as it is handled carefully and has enough time out of its enclosure to become social animals.  If it spends too much time in its enclosure, it will become depressed and/or bored, especially if it has no companion rabbit.  The Palomino Rabbit is a wonderful first-time pet, as it is relatively low maintenance so long as you provide it with essential items to keep it safe, healthy and happy.  Because it is a sociable animal, these rabbits are also good pets for couples and seniors, so long as retirees are able to physically to tend to the rabbit’s needs.  Palomino rabbits have been exercised as Animal Assisted Treatment animals, as well. They are well-suited for show and exhibition.  Palomino rabbits that are used for rabbit shows are known for their big ears, and they have smaller shoulders, but they will be in proportion with the remaining parts of their body in time. Club The Palomino Rabbit breed was approved as a separate breed by the American Rabbit Breeders’ Association during 1957.  Then the Palomino rabbit had been exported to Europe.  By the 1960s the breed was more common and gaining popularity, but the Palomino rabbits are not yet recognized by the British Rabbit Council.  The breed has been introduced into Europe, Malta, and even South Africa The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) maintains the breed standard for all of the recognized rabbit and cavy breeds for it's international membership.  Recognized breeds are eligible for Registration and Grand Champion recognition. There are two beautiful varieties accepted in Pals today: Golden and Lynx. The breed is known for its hardiness, excellent production qualities, and rapid growth. It is a breed equally suited for either meat production or exhibition. The Palomino Rabbit Co-Breeders Association, established in 1955, is the official breed specialty club promoting this All-American breed. The goal of our organization has been to foster a spirit of cooperation and an interest in the success of 'Pals' and those individuals who have an interest in raising the wonderful breed.  The name - 'Palomino Rabbit Co-Breeders' exemplifies this committment with the handshake featured in their emblem as an illustration of this ethic.  The name of the breed’s national specialty club is unique: the Palomino Co-breeders.  The club’s emblem includes two clasped hands over a golden rabbit, commemorating the handshake that the breed’s founder, Mark Youngs, would give new breeders when he sold them rabbits Despite its good temperament and valuable commercial properties, the Palomino rabbit escapes many people’s attention.  There are a number of breeds in its size and body type category that have special coloration: the American Sable, the Crème d’Argent, and the American Chinchilla, to name a few. The average lifespan of a Palomino Rabbit is around 5 to 8 years and in captivity can live up to 10 years. Word of the week: Luster Plant of the week: Clover Story of how rabbit Wishes for Snow http://www.palominorabbits.org/ http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/palomino-rabbit/ http://knowledgebase.lookseek.com/Palomino-Rabbit.html http://rabbitbreeders.us/palomino-rabbits www.palominorabbit.com http://www.roysfarm.com/palomino-rabbit/ http://www.thebrownrabbit.net/palomino-rabbits http://www.bunnyhugga.com/a-to-z/breeds/palomino.html https://rightpet.com/breed-species/small-exotic-mammal/rabbits/palomino-rabbit http://www.second-opinion-doc.com/what-is-a-palomino-rabbit.html